CN109825930A - A kind of design method and weaving process of part looping bumps small jacquard fabric - Google Patents

A kind of design method and weaving process of part looping bumps small jacquard fabric Download PDF

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CN109825930A
CN109825930A CN201910170736.6A CN201910170736A CN109825930A CN 109825930 A CN109825930 A CN 109825930A CN 201910170736 A CN201910170736 A CN 201910170736A CN 109825930 A CN109825930 A CN 109825930A
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looping
white
warp thread
warp
fabric
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CN109825930B (en
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隋全侠
毛玉蓉
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Abstract

The invention discloses the design methods and weaving process of a kind of local looping bumps small jacquard fabric, the present invention weaves local looping bumps small jacquard fabric on SGA598 type small sample loom, thin stick shape is taken out into looped pile after looped pile is formed by machine under fabric by being inserted into thin rod support yarns looping.Looping warp thread independent shedding every time, can make the looping of fabric part, the shape of looping flower pattern, position are freely controllable.On organization design, looping part uses terry pile structure, and not looping part is double-layered structure, is also equipped with the stronger honeycomb weave of concave-convex sense.In color matching design, rocket using gradual change is red with gradual change indigo plant, white is ground.When weaving, denting guarantees that convex portion looping flower pattern is full, gradually transition, double-deck ground cloth exquisiteness are compact for negative area honeycomb using flower threading method;Using insertion thin stick shape at skew of weft effect, make pattern profile that there is smooth curve sense.

Description

A kind of design method and weaving process of part looping bumps small jacquard fabric
Technical field
Present invention relates particularly to the design methods and weaving process of a kind of local looping bumps small jacquard fabric.
Background technique
Jacquard fabric is widely used in clothing industry, family's textile fabric industry, the processing of house ornamentation adnornment industry, ornaments and construction industry, Jacquard process refers to using a kind of tissue as bottom, another kind tissue or Various Tissues while showing floral designs, and with Filling yarn regular sink-float landing shows pattern image, is the performance with fiber, the form of yarn count, the tissue of fabric Variation, the weaving process that the third form and aspect shot effects etc. of interlaced generation of the color through barry dyeing is mutually set off.Wherein jacquard weave Patterning design, yarn design and organization design are the main indicators of its product.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of local looping bumps small jacquard faces The design method and weaving process of material.
Technical solution: a kind of design method of part looping bumps small jacquard fabric, including design as follows:
(1) grain pattern and Color Scheme
The product flower pattern grain pattern selects geometry box-shaped and diamond shape, and the box-shaped flower of size gradual change is formed by yarn looping The position of line, box-shaped decorative pattern is in picturesque disorder, breaches stiff lines sense;Two diamond shapes are one group and hand over phase with box-shaped decorative pattern It echoes;Two width flower-shapes of left and right are spent in pairs, honeycomb weave of the intermediate configurations with pique effect, and one width flower configuration in the left side is red gradually Become, one width of the right flower configures blue gradual change, remaining is white, so that fabric has a kind of active small pure and fresh embossment sense;
(2) organization design
Looping flower pattern uses four latitude terry pile structures, is conducive to yarn looping, the warp thread of the tissue is divided into two systems, looping Warp thread is that gradual change is red and gradual change blue, body warp are white, so that looping flower pattern is colour;Two width of left and right spend centre to adopt With 8 pieces of variation honeycomb weaves, the concave-convex small decorative pattern of the high, normal, basic square in side is formd, is whole white, rest part is using double Layer tissue is all white in the part not rocketed to highlight the red flower pattern with gradual change indigo plant of gradual change, so using double-layered structure, Weft yarn two systems be it is of the same colour white, warp thread two systems are gradient color and white respectively, and the looping of color warp thread forms flower when rocketing Type, when not needing to rocket, color warp thread and white weft yarn form fabric lower layer, and white warp thread and white weft yarn form fabric upper layer;
(3) technological design
A. yams are as follows:
Warp thread has white, pale red, red, dark red, light blue, blue, dark blue seven kinds of colors, is 14.6tex*2 (40S/ 2) pure cotton stock Line;Weft yarn is of the same colour white, is also 14.6tex*2 (40S/ 2) pure cotton strand;
B. warp and weft color matching circulation is as follows:
Warp thread: 24 white 4 red 48 white (1 white 1 is pale red) * 16 (1 white 1 is red) * 16 (1 white 1 is dark red) * 1648 white (bilayers) 32 are white (honeycomb) 48 white (bilayer) (1 white 1 is dark blue) * 16 (1 white 1 is blue) * 16 (1 white 1 is light blue) * 1648 white 4 indigo plants 24 are white;Wherein, font adds It is left and right two width flower that thick portion, which is divided to, and total quantity of warps is 472;
Weft yarn: of the same colour white;
C. it gaits sequentially:
(1、2)*14(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(9、10、11、12、13、14、11、15)* 4(3,4,5,6)*12(7,8,5,6)*24(3,4,5,6)*12(1,2)*14;
Gaiting and recycling radical is 472;
D. every dent penetrates several designs:
In denting using flower threading method, i.e., respectively this fabric looping part, dual layer section and honeycomb part are differed through close, Part penetrates the ratio between number and is equal to through the ratio between close;In order to guarantee that looping part looped pile is intensive, flower pattern is full, it is 4 that every dent, which penetrates number, Enter;Cloth is fine and smooth, wide with requiring upper layer and lower layer for dual layer section, and every dent penetrates number and enters for 4, honeycomb means suitable nest bottom to nest top Concave-convex sense gradually transition, should not be too large through close, therefore every dent penetrates number and enters for 2;The active force that selvedge is subject to is larger, although It is single layer cloth, is still penetrated using every dent 4, it is enough through close to guarantee, woven violent effect could be born.
A kind of weaving process of the local looping bumps small jacquard fabric according to, the parameter of the weaving process is such as Under: the warp density on machine of fabric be 319/10cm, weft density on machine be 214/10cm, lower machine through it is close be 328/10cm, lower machine Filling density is 222/10cm, warp thread weave shrinkage 3.8%, weft shrinkage 2.6%, porter 58#
The key measures of the weaving process are as follows:
1) warp thread looping
In order to make warp thread looping, and looping range becomes with flower pattern, when weaving looping part, different thin of insertion length Rod supports warp thread looping, and thin rod is taken out after machine under fabric, forms looped pile flower pattern;In order to facilitate the thin rod of insertion in weaving, allow It needs the warp thread of looping all to lift, is inserted into thin rod at this time, but do not introduce weft yarn, be equivalent to one latitude of impact missing;This fabric rises Circle part needs an impact missing latitude between the third latitude and the 4th latitude in every four latitude, due to line using four latitude terry pile structures Total number of latitude of plate figure wherein has the repetition of part card up to 569 latitudes, for the ease of observing the position of impact missing latitude, each looping Flower pattern does a pegging plan, and according to the symmetry above and below flower pattern, card calling sequence is card one (diamond shape looping), card two (4 Row's circle flower pattern), card three (6 rows enclose flower pattern), card four (8 rows enclose flower pattern), card three (6 rows enclose flower pattern), (the 4 rows circle of card two Flower pattern), each row dark structure point indicates an impact missing latitude in pegging plan, the 4th, 6,8,10,12,14, the warp on 15 heald frames Yarn lifts, and the thin rod of different length is then inserted into according to pattern profile;
2) warp thread warp tension
It is weaved on TongYuan SGA598 type small sample loom, controlling each section warp thread warp tension is woven pass Key when weaving, is taken at loom rear portion and is tied up respectively, individually control each portion to adjust the tension of looping warp thread and body warp Lease making yarn tension guarantees that Warp opening is clear with this;The tension of looping warp thread should not be too large, and otherwise will affect the height of looped pile; The tension of body warp is bigger than normal, on the one hand Warp opening can be made clear;On the other hand, the tension difference of looping warp thread and body warp It is different, the warp run-in of two kinds of warp thread can be made to slightly have difference, be conducive to the formation of looped pile and consolidate;
3) curve sense of pattern profile is formed using skew of weft
In weaving, the thin rod of looping partial insertion since thin rod is thicker than weft yarn, and is woodenly, so being inserted into thin rod Part weft yarn is not easy to beat to fell, and the weft yarn for not inserting thin rod part is easy to beat to fell, and it is not straight line that this, which has resulted in weft yarn, Type, but cambered shaped form, referred to as skew of weft;Due to the shape retrieval of looping, position gradual change, length of a curve Also different with position, straight line is merged with curve, breaches the stiff straight line sense of geometry flower pattern so that pattern profile it is smooth, Regular movements increases the vivacious and light-hearted sense of fabric, brings out the best in each other with two groups of gradient colors of fabric;
4) looped pile fixed form
Under fabric after machine, thin rod looped pile deformation is taken out in order to prevent, before taking out thin rod, is sprayed using design-shaping gel water Thin rod is taken out at looping position after three minutes, looped pile still towers, if looped pile can lodge by suppressing, but not deforms.
The utility model has the advantages that the present invention weaves local looping bumps small jacquard fabric on TongYuan SGA598 type small sample loom, Thin stick shape is taken out into looped pile after looped pile is formed by machine under fabric by being inserted into thin rod support yarns looping.Looping warp thread is each Independent shedding, can make the looping of fabric part, and the shape of looping flower pattern, position are freely controllable.On organization design, looping part Using terry pile structure, not looping part is double-layered structure, is also equipped with the stronger honeycomb weave of concave-convex sense.In color matching design, adopt It is rocketed with gradual change is red with gradual change indigo plant, white is ground.When weaving, denting using flower threading method, guarantee convex portion looping flower pattern it is full, Gradually transition, double-deck ground cloth exquisiteness are compact for negative area honeycomb;Using insertion thin stick shape at skew of weft effect, have pattern profile There is smooth curve sense.By design and practice, desired effect is reached, local looping is concave-convex to weaving on small sample loom Fabric has reference function.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is structural schematic diagram of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field Personnel can better understand advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention In embodiment, those of ordinary skill in the art's every other implementation obtained without making creative work Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
Herein by taking " enclosing moving life " theme as an example, practice of innovation has been carried out to local looping bumps small jacquard fabric." circle is dynamic Life " theme works show flower pattern, looping portion using the various circles of modern life as design inspiration, by the three-dimensional sense of looped pile The flower pattern three-dimensional sense divided is strong, it appears and protrusion, not looping part seem concave, and size, the shape of looping flower pattern can be controlled freely, this It is the main innovation point of the product design, and weaves the technological difficulties of the fabric;The gradual change of product flower pattern, color gradient, then The honeycomb weave with pique effect is mixed, keeps patterns of fabric unique novel, implied meaning is that the busy life of modern is various Circle is flooded with, it is desirable to which people can practice the disconnected house of circle from highlighting the effective social activity of oneself, reduce useless circle, pass everywhere Broadcast positive energy.
1 product design
Organization configurations innovation, color design and weaving process innovation are this local looping bumps small jacquard fabric design Three innovative points.When designing flower pattern, needs to consider organization configurations, color design, whether can be realized in technique, designed fabric Whether can achieve the desired results.In the innovative design of the product, only by tissue, color and technique realizability perfection knot It closes, can just create unique novel fabric.
1.1 grain patterns and Color Scheme
According to the requirement of fabric design Skill Competition, entrant needs first to carry out product design, then in small sample loom Upper completion weaves.The heald frame of page 16 provisioned in small sample loom, makes flower pattern Ridge tracing receive significant limitation.The product Flower pattern grain pattern selects geometry box-shaped and diamond shape, and the box-shaped decorative pattern of size gradual change is formed by yarn looping, box-shaped decorative pattern Position is in picturesque disorder, breaches stiff lines sense;Two diamond shapes are one group and mutually echo with the friendship of box-shaped decorative pattern;Left and right two width flower It is formed to flower, the intermediate configurations honeycomb weave with pique effect, one width of left side flower configure red gradual change, and one width of the right flower is matched Blue gradual change is set, remaining is white, so that fabric has a kind of active small pure and fresh embossment sense.
1.2 organization design
Looping flower pattern uses four latitude terry pile structures, is conducive to yarn looping, the warp thread of the tissue is divided into two systems, looping Warp thread is that gradual change is red and gradual change blue, body warp are white, so that looping flower pattern is colour.Two width of left and right spend centre to adopt With 8 pieces of variation honeycomb weaves, the concave-convex small decorative pattern of the high, normal, basic square in side is formd, is whole white.Rest part is using double Layer tissue is all white in the part not rocketed to highlight the red flower pattern with gradual change indigo plant of gradual change, so using double-layered structure, Weft yarn two systems be it is of the same colour white, warp thread two systems are gradient color and white respectively, and the looping of color warp thread forms flower when rocketing Type, when not needing to rocket, color warp thread and white weft yarn form fabric lower layer, and white warp thread and white weft yarn form fabric upper layer.
2 technological designs
2.1 yams
Warp thread has white, pale red, red, dark red, light blue, blue, dark blue seven kinds of colors, is 14.6tex*2 (40S/ 2) pure cotton stock Line, weft yarn are of the same colour white, are also 14.6tex*2 (40S/ 2) pure cotton strand.
2.2 warp and wefts color matching circulation
Warp thread: 24 white 4 red 48 white (1 white 1 is pale red) * 16 (1 white 1 is red) * 16 (1 white 1 is dark red) * 1648 white (bilayers) 32 are white (honeycomb) 48 white (bilayer) (1 white 1 is dark blue) * 16 (1 white 1 is blue) * 16 (1 white 1 is light blue) * 1648 white 4 indigo plants 24 are white;Wherein, font adds It is left and right two width flower that thick portion, which is divided to, and total quantity of warps is 472.
Weft yarn: of the same colour white.
2.3 gait sequentially
(1、2)*14(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(9、10、11、12、13、14、11、15)* 4(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(1、2)*14。
Gaiting and recycling radical is 472.
2.4 every dents penetrate several designs
In denting using flower threading method, i.e., respectively this fabric looping part, dual layer section and honeycomb part are differed through close, Part penetrates the ratio between number and is equal to through the ratio between close.In order to guarantee that looping part looped pile is intensive, flower pattern is full, it is 4 that every dent, which penetrates number, Enter;Cloth is fine and smooth, wide with requiring upper layer and lower layer for dual layer section, and every dent penetrates number and enters for 4, honeycomb means suitable nest bottom to nest top Concave-convex sense gradually transition, should not be too large through close, therefore every dent penetrates number and enters for 2.The active force that selvedge is subject to is larger, although It is single layer cloth, is still penetrated using every dent 4, it is enough through close to guarantee, woven violent effect could be born.
2.5 textile processes parameters
The warp density on machine of fabric be 319/10cm, weft density on machine be 214/10cm, lower machine through it is close be 328/10cm, Lower machine filling density is 222/10cm, warp thread weave shrinkage 3.8%, weft shrinkage 2.6%, porter 58#
3 weaving key measures
3.1 warp thread loopings
Make warp thread looping on special terry cloth loom using terry pile structure, two key technologies is needed, one is different Let-off mechanism, i.e. looping warp yarn supplying amount is more, and body warp warp run-in is few;Secondly be different beating mode, i.e., hand-to-hand fight in tights latitude and Long beating combines.If making warp thread looping on small sample loom, need to capture the two technological difficulties.Because of SGA598 type Small sample loom is to beat up manually, so hand-to-hand fight in tights latitude and long beating can control, but the let-off mechanism of the small sample loom It cannot accomplish different warp run-ins.
In order to make warp thread looping, and looping range becomes with flower pattern, when weaving looping part, different thin of insertion length Rod supports warp thread looping, and thin rod is transferred after machine under fabric, forms looped pile flower pattern.In order to facilitate the thin rod of insertion in weaving, allow It needs the warp thread of looping all to lift, is inserted into thin rod at this time, but do not introduce weft yarn, be equivalent to one latitude of impact missing.This fabric rises Circle part needs an impact missing latitude, pegging plan between the third latitude and the 4th latitude in every four latitude using four latitude terry pile structures As shown in Figure 1, since total number of latitude of pegging plan is up to 569 latitudes, but wherein have the repetition of part card, for the ease of observation impact missing latitude Position, each looping flower pattern does a pegging plan, and according to the symmetry above and below flower pattern, card calling sequence is one (water chestnut of card Shape looping), card two (4 rows enclose flower pattern), card three (6 rows enclose flower pattern), card four (8 rows enclose flower pattern), (6 rows enclose flower to card three Type), card two (4 rows enclose flower pattern), each row dark structure point indicates an impact missing latitude in pegging plan, the 4th, 6,8,10,12, 14, the warp thread on 15 heald frames lifts, and the thin rod of different length is then inserted into according to pattern profile.
3.2 warp thread warp tensions
This product need to be weaved on TongYuan SGA598 type small sample loom, and controlling each section warp thread warp tension is Woven key when weaving, is taken at loom rear portion and is tied up respectively, individually to adjust the tension of looping warp thread and body warp Each section warp tension is controlled, guarantees that Warp opening is clear with this.The tension of looping warp thread should not be too large, and otherwise will affect looped pile Height;The tension of body warp is bigger than normal, on the one hand Warp opening can be made clear;On the other hand, looping warp thread and body warp Tension difference, the warp run-in of two kinds of warp thread can be made to slightly have difference, be conducive to the formation of looped pile and firm.
3.3 form the curve sense of pattern profile using skew of weft
In weaving, the thin rod of looping partial insertion since thin rod is thicker than weft yarn, and is woodenly, so being inserted into thin rod Part weft yarn is not easy to beat to fell, and the weft yarn for not inserting thin rod part is easy to beat to fell, and it is not straight line that this, which has resulted in weft yarn, Type, but cambered shaped form, referred to as skew of weft.Due to the shape retrieval of looping, position gradual change, length of a curve Also different with position, straight line is merged with curve, breaches the stiff straight line sense of geometry flower pattern so that pattern profile it is smooth, Regular movements increases the vivacious and light-hearted sense of fabric, brings out the best in each other with two groups of gradient colors of fabric.
3.4 looped pile fixed forms
Under fabric after machine, thin rod looped pile deformation is taken out in order to prevent, before taking out thin rod, is sprayed using design-shaping gel water Thin rod is taken out at looping position after three minutes, looped pile still towers, if looped pile can lodge by suppressing, but not deforms.
" enclosing moving life " theme small jacquard design innovative, innovative point are innovated first is that weaving gimmick.In SGA598 type Loop fabric is weaved on small sample loom, by being inserted into thin rod support yarns looping, looping warp thread independent shedding every time is only inserted Thin rod, does not introduce weft yarn, and corresponding row is added in the realization needs of this impact missing latitude in pegging plan, to control each looping warp The shedding of yarn.Since the length of thin rod and position can be controlled freely, so the looping of fabric part can be made, and the shape of looping and face Product size can also be controlled freely.Innovative point second is that organization configurations innovate.Looping part uses four latitude terry pile structures, is conducive to hair Enclose firm grip;Not looping part is double-layered structure, and the purpose is in not looping, the color warp thread for forming looped pile and weft yarn are handed over It knits to form fabric lower layer, and white warp thread and white weft yarns form fabric upper layer, to set off out colour on the ground white Looped pile flower pattern;In addition, being also equipped with the stronger honeycomb weave of concave-convex sense, which can form side from nest bottom to the gradually transition of nest top High, normal, basic square ridge design, but honeycomb weave part is configured with pure white, hands over the colored looped pile flower pattern of the left and right sides Mutually echo.Innovative point third is that style characteristic innovate.The color matching of the fabric is ground with white, is equipped with that gradual change is red and gradual change indigo plant looped pile Flower pattern, looping shape retrieval, position gradual change;Using insertion thin stick shape at skew of weft effect, make pattern profile that there is smooth song Line sense, part looping of various shapes, intersperses the square ridge design of honeycomb weave, double-layered structure it is smooth thick and solid, it is peculiar J curve effectJ make fabric that superpower three-dimensional sense be presented.
The present invention weaves local looping pique on SGA598 type small sample loom, design difficulty, difficulty of weaving and Looped pile stability control difficulty is all larger, by taking various means, efficiently solves corresponding difficult point, realizes setting for new product Meter and weaving, have reached desired effect, have certain reference to new product is researched and developed on small sample loom.The product wind Lattice it is unique it is novel, with high content of technology, added value of product is high, be suitble to do handbag, small pillow, artifacts and small-sized home decoration and knit Object etc. receives will be widely welcomed for market.

Claims (2)

1. a kind of design method of part looping bumps small jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that: including designing as follows:
(1) grain pattern and Color Scheme
The product flower pattern grain pattern selects geometry box-shaped and diamond shape, and the box-shaped decorative pattern of size gradual change is formed by yarn looping, side The position of block shape decorative pattern is in picturesque disorder, breaches stiff lines sense;Two diamond shapes are one group and mutually echo with the friendship of box-shaped decorative pattern; Two width flower-shapes of left and right are spent in pairs, honeycomb weave of the intermediate configurations with pique effect, and one width flower in the left side configures red gradual change, right One width of side flower configures blue gradual change, remaining is white, so that fabric has a kind of active small pure and fresh embossment sense;
(2) organization design
Looping flower pattern uses four latitude terry pile structures, is conducive to yarn looping, the warp thread of the tissue is divided into two systems, looping warp thread Red blue with gradual change for gradual change, body warp is white, so that looping flower pattern is colour;Two width of left and right are spent intermediate using 8 Piece variation honeycomb weave, forms the concave-convex small decorative pattern of the high, normal, basic square in side, is whole white, rest part is using the double-deck group It knits, is all white in the part not rocketed to highlight the red flower pattern with gradual change indigo plant of gradual change, so using double-layered structure, weft yarn Two systems be it is of the same colour white, warp thread two systems are gradient color and white respectively, and the looping of color warp thread forms flower pattern when rocketing, no When needing to rocket, color warp thread and white weft yarn form fabric lower layer, and white warp thread and white weft yarn form fabric upper layer;
(3) technological design
A. yams are as follows:
Warp thread has white, pale red, red, dark red, light blue, blue, dark blue seven kinds of colors, is 14.6tex*2 (40S/ 2) pure cotton strand;Latitude Yarn is of the same colour white, is also 14.6tex*2 (40S/ 2) pure cotton strand;
B. warp and weft color matching circulation is as follows:
Warp thread: 24 white 4 red 48 white (1 white 1 is pale red) * 16 (1 white 1 is red) * 16 (1 white 1 is dark red) * 1648 white (bilayers) 32 are white (honeycomb) 48 white (bilayers) (1 white 1 is dark blue) * 16 (1 white 1 is blue) * 16 (1 white 1 is light blue) * 1648 white 4 indigo plants 24 are white;Wherein, font-weight part It is left and right two width flower, total quantity of warps is 472;
Weft yarn: of the same colour white;
C. it gaits sequentially:
(1、2)*14(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(9、10、11、12、13、14、11、15)*4(3、 4,5,6)*12(7,8,5,6)*24(3,4,5,6)*12(1,2)*14;
Gaiting and recycling radical is 472;
D. every dent penetrates several designs:
This fabric looping part, dual layer section and honeycomb part are differed through close, in denting using flower threading method, i.e. each section The ratio between number is penetrated to be equal to through the ratio between close;In order to guarantee that looping part looped pile is intensive, flower pattern is full, every dent penetrates number and enters for 4;It is double Layer means suitable upper layer and lower layer cloth it is fine and smooth, wide, every dent penetrates number and enters for 4, honeycomb means suitable nest bottom to the recessed of nest top Convex sense gradually transition, should not be too large through close, therefore every dent penetrates number and enters for 2;The active force that selvedge is subject to is larger, although single Layer cloth, is still penetrated using every dent 4, enough through close to guarantee, could bear woven violent effect.
2. a kind of weaving process of local looping bumps small jacquard fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: described Weaving process parameter it is as follows: the warp density on machine of fabric be 319/10cm, weft density on machine be 214/10cm, lower machine is through close For 328/10cm, lower machine filling density is 222/10cm, warp thread weave shrinkage 3.8%, weft shrinkage 2.6%, porter 58#
The key measures of the weaving process are as follows:
1) warp thread looping
In order to make warp thread looping, and looping range becomes with flower pattern, when weaving looping part, the different thin rod branch of insertion length Warp thread looping is supportted, thin rod is taken out after machine under fabric, forms looped pile flower pattern;In order to facilitate the thin rod of insertion in weaving, needs are allowed The warp thread of looping all lifts, and is inserted into thin rod at this time, but do not introduce weft yarn, is equivalent to one latitude of impact missing;This fabric looping portion Point using four latitude terry pile structures, an impact missing latitude is needed between the third latitude and the 4th latitude in every four latitude, due to pegging plan Total number of latitude up to 569 latitudes, but wherein have part card repetition, for the ease of observe impact missing latitude position, each looping flower pattern A pegging plan is done, according to the symmetry above and below flower pattern, card calling sequence is card one (diamond shape looping), (the 4 rows circle of card two Flower pattern), card three (6 rows enclose flower pattern), card four (8 rows enclose flower pattern), card three (6 rows enclose flower pattern), (4 rows enclose flower to card two Type), each row dark structure point indicates an impact missing latitude in pegging plan, the 4th, 6,8,10,12,14, the warp thread on 15 heald frames Lift, the thin rod of different length is then inserted into according to pattern profile;
2) warp thread warp tension
It is weaved on TongYuan SGA598 type small sample loom, controlling each section warp thread warp tension is woven key, In order to adjust the tension of looping warp thread and body warp, when weaving, takes at loom rear portion and tie up respectively, individually control each section warp Yarn tension guarantees that Warp opening is clear with this;The tension of looping warp thread should not be too large, and otherwise will affect the height of looped pile;Ground warp The tension of yarn is bigger than normal, on the one hand Warp opening can be made clear;On the other hand, the tension difference of looping warp thread and body warp, The warp run-in of two kinds of warp thread can be made to slightly have difference, be conducive to the formation of looped pile and consolidated;
3) curve sense of pattern profile is formed using skew of weft
In weaving, the thin rod of looping partial insertion since thin rod is thicker than weft yarn, and is woodenly, so being inserted into the part of thin rod Weft yarn is not easy to beat to fell, and the weft yarn for not inserting thin rod part is easy to beat to fell, and it is linear type that this, which has resulted in weft yarn not, and It is cambered shaped form, referred to as skew of weft;Due to the shape retrieval of looping, position gradual change, length of a curve and position Also different, straight line is merged with curve, breaches the stiff straight line sense of geometry flower pattern, so that pattern profile is smooth, regular movements, is increased The sense that fabric is vivacious and light-hearted is added, has brought out the best in each other with two groups of gradient colors of fabric;
4) looped pile fixed form
Under fabric after machine, thin rod looped pile deformation is taken out in order to prevent, before taking out thin rod, sprays looping using design-shaping gel water Thin rod is taken out at position after three minutes, looped pile still towers, if looped pile can lodge by suppressing, but not deforms.
CN201910170736.6A 2019-03-07 2019-03-07 Design method and weaving process of local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric Expired - Fee Related CN109825930B (en)

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