CN106884248A - A kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric - Google Patents
A kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN106884248A CN106884248A CN201710010046.5A CN201710010046A CN106884248A CN 106884248 A CN106884248 A CN 106884248A CN 201710010046 A CN201710010046 A CN 201710010046A CN 106884248 A CN106884248 A CN 106884248A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
- D06C23/02—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by singeing, teasing, shearing, etching or brushing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric, comprise the following steps：Fabric Design → winder → warping → sizing → pass → weave → Final finishing.Cotton broadwise cutting motif fabric in the present invention is soft, comfortably, based on fresh and clean striped, thinner warp thread, so that cloth cover is fine and smooth, higher through close, the flower pattern of formation is compact, the third dimension of patterns of composition is strong, is looked at by the table of consumer, mainly as summer shirt fabric.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric knitting field, and in particular to a kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric.
Background technology
Clipping and carving fabric has through two kinds of clipping and carving fabric and latitude clipping and carving fabric, and the loom of early stage does not have electronic take-up mechanism, production
Producer become per reed penetration number through close by that can only be changed, and be developed through clipping and carving fabric, and low production efficiency, production difficulty is big, with existing
Electronic take-up mechanism is widely used for shuttleless loom, becoming filling density weaving becomes very convenient, and present invention air-jet loom knits latitude processed
Clipping and carving fabric, by the latitude interlacing point of flower latitude, decorative pattern is formed in cloth cover, then is equipped with the colored latitude of shades of colour, the various styles of composition
Pattern, latitude cutting motif fabric compare through cutting motif fabric, process is simple, production difficulty is low, and yield is high, and quality is good.
During part in warp thread or weft yarn knitted into fabric, then the unnecessary yarn for floating over fabric backing is cut off, just
It is clipping and carving fabric.Clipping and carving fabric has through clipping and carving fabric and latitude clipping and carving fabric.There are two or more warp thread through clipping and carving fabric
System, each system is required for a single beam of a loom, using flower warp through interlacing point, decorative pattern is formed in cloth cover, while matching somebody with somebody
To change per reed penetration number, the fabric of the system of knitting needs two or more beams of a loom during weaving, production difficulty is big, matter
Amount is difficult to control to, multiplex low speed rapier loom weaving.Latitude clipping and carving fabric has two or more weft systems, ground weft and flower
Latitude, ground weft and warp yarns form ground tissue；Flower latitude and the warp yarns that rocket, the latitude interlacing point of formation float over fabric face,
Length long being floated using flower latitude latitude to change, decorative pattern being formed on fabric, then be equipped with change filling density technique, weaving is formed.Latitude clipping and carving is knitted
The warp thread of thing also has body warp and rockets warp thread, but body warp and yarn rocket interleaved number of times difference difference and less, can make
Weaved with single shaft, thus shed open is easily clear, simple production process, decorative pattern change is more, and design more facilitates, good product quality,
Can be produced with high speed loom.The present invention introduces the design and producing main points of latitude clipping and carving fabric.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention：In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the invention provides a kind of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric
Production technology.
Technical scheme：A kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric, comprises the following steps：Fabric Design → winder
→ warping → sizing → pass → weave → Final finishing；Concrete operations are as follows：
(1), Fabric Design
A. basic organization is made from plain weave；
B. rocket place, and flower latitude presses 1 with ground weft：1 arrangement, ground weft and all warp yarns, flower latitude only with the warp yarns that rocket,
And flower latitude is floating more long, covers ground weft, floats over fabric face, with reference to the yarn of shades of colour, different style decorative pattern is constituted；
C. spend the latitude of latitude to float line long and be set as 3, when not rocketing, flower latitude sinks to the reverse side of fabric；Knitted latitude clipping and carving processed is knitted
During thing, latitude floats long of length no more than 4, if flower pattern needs the floating length of latitude more long really, to arrange knot to connect and be connect through carrying out knot,
Push down the floating length of latitude；
D. the color of warp thread has Jia Bai and middle orchid, and line density is 9.7tex yarns；Weft yarn has ground weft and flower latitude, and ground weft is
9.7tex adds white yarn, flower latitude and promising middle blue and dark red two kinds of colors, line density 9.7tex*2 doublet cords；
(2), winder
From 1332MD type bobbin-winding machines, when this fabric is produced, directly buy dyed yarn, the fault of yarn in preceding road winder
Through being eliminated, it is not necessary to select high speed cone winder, but rewinding is carried out from semi-automatic bobbin winder, this textile is cotton,
Line density is 9.7tex, because yarn count is thinner, therefore selects relatively low winder speed, and winder speed is 575m/min, due to car
Speed is relatively low, and influence of winding tension packing ring selects 7.4 grams of packing ring；To ensure the quality of cylinder yarn, it is desirable to use hand held air splicer
Joint；
(3), warping
From Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, speed of beaming is 215-1000m/min, and the capacity of bobbin cradle is 768
Only；When this fabric is produced, speed of beaming is 670m/min, because the type warping machine speed of beaming is fast, is no longer carried out during warping attached
Plus the setting of tension force；Warping matches somebody with somebody axle, plus white 6454, yarn, 96, side yarn, adds up to 6550, and the axle of trim-beam number 9 is with axle：
727*2+728*7；Middle blue 1614, the axle of trim-beam number 3 is 538*3 with axle；
(4), sizing
From GA308 type dual-box slashers, the formula of slurry：PVA1799 is 30%, and converted starch is 70%, slurries
Solid content control 7.5%, the viscosity of slurries is 9-10S, and using double-clip-double-nip technique, preceding squeezing roller pressure is 16KN, after
Squeezing roller pressure is 12kn, and sizing speed is 50-55m/min, and slurry groove temperature is 80-85 DEG C, and the rate of sizing is 11%, sizing moisture regain
Rate is controlled 7 ± 0.5%；
Fabric is pure cotton fabric, and full starch starching can be used originally, but because yarn is thinner, the density of fabric compares again
Greatly, sizing should be wear-resisting, strengthens again, therefore 30% PVA1799 is added in the formula based on starch size, to strengthen
The weaving performance of sizing；Warp thread is 9.7tex single thread, and single thread force is relatively low, and the enhancing of yarn is considered during sizing, considers again
Yarn it is wear-resisting, therefore squeezing roller uses preceding heavy rear light technique, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is larger, is 16KN, and pressure is big, slurries quilt
Squeeze into yarn interior, sizing is impregnated with, and yarn enhancing is big；Post jacking roller pressure is relatively small, and pressure is small, sizing it is coated
Good, sizing is more wear-resisting；
After sizing, middle blue yarn and Jia Bai yarns are separated with leased line, and middle blue yarn is placed on upper strata, plus white yarn is placed on
Lower floor, after being separated with leased line, when rear road is gaited, it is convenient that work of gaiting takes yarn；
(5), gait：
Menopause tablet uses 6 rows, suitable to wear；Latitude cutting motif fabric is gaited using subregion, and body warp is through proparea, is rocketed after being through
Area, if knot is connect through knot is connect through being through middle area；Heald frame use comprehensive, the total quantity of warps 8164 of page 12, wherein through part warp thread
Radical is 7044, and warp thread radical is more, comprehensive along wearing using 1-8 pages, is rocketed through 1120, and, side yarn 96 piece comprehensive using 9-12 pages makes
It is comprehensive with 1-2 pages；One 200 yarn of circulation of gaiting, in a circulation, page the 1st, 4,6 are comprehensive respectively to wear 22 yarns, and page the 2nd, 3 are comprehensive respectively to be worn
23 yarns, page 5 be comprehensive to wear 21 yarns, and page 7 be comprehensive to wear 20 yarns, page 8 be comprehensive to wear 19 yarns, and the one 9-12 pages comprehensive to wear 7 yarns；Respectively
Page heald frame heald radical be：Page 1 comprehensive 937, page 2 comprehensive 977, page 3 comprehensive 929, page 4 comprehensive 889, page 5 is comprehensive
848, page 6 comprehensive 888, page 7 comprehensive 808, page 8 comprehensive 768, the 9-12 pages comprehensive each 280；Order of gaiting is as follows：
(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,1,2,3, (9,10) * 6,4,5,6,10,8, (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,
8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,11,1,2,3, (11,12) * 6,2,3,4,12,6；
(6), weave：
From the GA718 type air-jet loom systems of knitting, electronic dobby shedding mechanism, the heald frames of page 16 are configured with, loom speed is
520r/min；
Become filling density weaving：The loom of the non-electronic spooler system of can also knitting becomes filling density fabric, when knitting ground weft processed, coiling machine
Structure is normally batched, and knits Hua Weishi processed, by dobby steel wire rope, will be batched hook and is lifted, and stops batching；
Electronic take-up and electronic warp feeding are configured with GA718 type air-jet looms, in technique sets menu, are chosen to batch and is sent
Through system, filling density is set, filling density at most can be set 8 kinds；This fabric sets 2 kinds of filling densities, and filling density 1 is set to 364/10cm, latitude
Close 2 are set to 594/10cm, and choose change filling density to weave, and then in technological design menu, design are chosen, in fancy
A column is designed, is input into：1-46 latitudes, are weaved using filling density 1, and 47-52 latitudes are weaved using filling density 2, and 53-98 latitudes are knitted using filling density 1
Make, 99-104 latitudes are weaved using filling density 2, can be achieved with becoming filling density weaving function；
Licker-in roller：When knitting broadwise cutting motif fabric processed, because the line floating long of flower latitude is more long, it is easy to by the acicular hook on licker-in roller
Latitude is firmly spent, the quality of fabric is influenceed, when cutting motif fabric is produced, it is necessary in one layer of frivolous clad of seta roller surface bag, prevent
Only licker-in roller hook yarn, clad can not be thick, coats thickness, licker-in roller can be influenceed to the control ability of cloth cover, so as to influence fabric
Quality；
Opening time：Opening time is defined as 290 °；
Weft yarn beginning flying angle：The upper machine reed width of this fabric is smaller, only 162cm, therefore, when weft yarn has enough flight
Between, later weft yarn beginning flying angle need to be used, the beginning flying angle for selecting weft yarn is 95 °；
Weft yarn angle of arrival：This fabric weft yarn angle of arrival is defined as 230 °；
The pneumatic picking time：GA718 type air-jet looms, are configured with 8 groups of pilot jets, when this fabric is produced, due to upper machine
Reed width is smaller, therefore actually used 7 groups of pilot jets, auxiliary spray every group 4, and the auxiliary maximum spacing of spray is 6.5cm；Loom rotating speed is
520m/min, the angle that loom 1ms is turned over is 3.12 degree, and the reaction time of magnetic valve is 5ms, and sluggish angle is 16 °, and weft yarn begins to fly
Row angle is 95 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival is 230 °, auxiliary whole 250 ° of the spray angle of spray, and pneumatic picking technological parameter is：Gear yarn pin release angle=
Weft yarn beginning flying angle-sluggishness angle=79 °, when the first latitude is weaved, because loom is not reaching to normal rotating speed, weft yarn has enough
Flight time, gear yarn pin release time can be with 10 ° of evening, and the first latitude gear yarn pin release angle is 89 °；Main jet jet time be 69 °-
170 °, when the first latitude is weaved, main jet jet angle is 79 ° -170 °, and reason is identical with when being weaved with the first latitude of gear yarn pin；First
Group pilot jet jet angle is 69 ° -130 °, and second group of pilot jet jet angle is 90 ° -150 °, the 3rd group of pilot jet
Jet angle is 110 ° -170 °, and the 4th group of pilot jet jet angle is 130 ° -190 °, the 5th group of pilot jet jet angle
It is 150 ° -210 °, the 6th group of pilot jet jet angle is 170 ° -230 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet angle be 190 ° -
290 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet end time, should be identical with the whole spray angle of auxiliary spray, but because GA718 type jets are knitted
Machine does not have draw jet, and to prevent looped weft, last group of pilot jet end time is deferred to 290 ° of heald level time；
Whiff pressure：Main jet pressure is set as 0.22mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying is set as that machine reed width is only on 0.26mpa, this fabric
There is 162cm, upper machine reed width is small, weft yarn flying speed need not be very fast, thus can select less whiff pressure；Production process
In, weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, from loom display screen, checks that weft yarn is actually reached angle, actual weft yarn angle of arrival control
Between 220 ° -230 °, whiff pressure is no longer needed for regulation, if being actually reached angle earlier than 220 °, can suitably turn jet down
Pressure, if being actually reached angle is later than 230 °, it is necessary to increase whiff pressure, prevents that short latitude stops platform；
Gentle breeze：When this fabric is produced, because weft yarn is thinner, weft yarn screen resilience is small, and gentle breeze Stress control is in 0.06-
Between 0.08mpa, 0.08mpa is not exceeded, gentle breeze pressure is big, and Weft Detwisting is fast, and weft yarn is easily blown；
Back beam height：GA718 type air-jet looms, configuration is type dobby shedding mechanism, and conventional back beam height is 0 scale,
When this fabric knits processed, all than larger, weft yarn is not easy urgent thread count, and fell backwash is big, therefore back beam height is brought up into 1
Scale, the tension difference of so upper and lower layer warp thread is big, and weft yarn is easily urgent；
Warp tension：Warp count is big, and shed open is difficult clearly, it should use larger warp tension, but this fabric warp
Relatively thin, single thread force is low, and after overall balance, tension force is set as 130kg.
As optimization：The Fabric width of the fabric is 146cm, finished product through it is close be 559/10cm, broadwise have ground weft and
Flower latitude, one spends middle ground weft width 2.5cm, 92 yarns of ground weft, and density is 368/10cm at ground weft, and one spends middle colored latitude width
0.2cm, flower latitude 12, flower weft density is 600/10cm, and it is 104 latitudes, average filling density=104/2.7 × 10 often to spend fill yarn ends
=385/10cm, warp yarn shrinkage 9.0%, weft shrinkage 3.7%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%, dyeing and finishing shrinkage long is 1.0%.
Beneficial effect：In the present invention, due to being limited by every reed penetration number and reed through cutting motif fabric, flower pattern can not show a candle to
Latitude cutting motif fabric enriches.Latitude cutting motif fabric floats the front that line long floats over fabric by latitude, decorative pattern is formed, due to GA718 type looms
Electronic take-up mechanism is used, 8 kinds of filling densities at most has can be used in same kind so that the patterning design of latitude cutting motif fabric becomes non-
It is often convenient, can be according to the arbitrarily devised filling density of the requirement of flower pattern, difficulty of weaving is also far below through cutting motif fabric, and product quality is better than
Through cutting motif fabric.
Production latitude cutting motif fabric when, it should be noted that below some：1. the basic organization of latitude cutting motif fabric, it is preferred to use plain weave group
Knit；2. yarn count is thin；3. the thread count of fabric is big.It is closely fine and smooth as long as 3 points more than meeting, knitting the fabric made, flower
Type is compact changeable, and perception is good, is used for knitting summer shirt fabric processed.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is machine schematic diagram on fabric of the invention.
Specific embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment
1st, Fabric Design of the invention
The design of the latitude cutting motif fabric in the present invention is as follows：(1) basic organization, plain weave are made from plain weave
Point number of times is relatively more, easily clamps colored latitude, can also make the smooth exquisiteness of cloth cover, the effect of prominent flower latitude；(2) rocket place, flower latitude
1 is pressed with ground weft：1 arrangement, ground weft and all warp yarns, flower latitude only with the warp yarns that rocket, and flower latitude is floating more long, covers
Ground weft, floats over fabric face, with reference to the yarn of shades of colour, constitutes different style decorative pattern；(3) latitude of flower latitude floats line long and is set as
3, when not rocketing, flower latitude sinks to the reverse side of fabric.When latitude cutting motif fabric processed is knitted, latitude floats length long preferably not more than 4
Root, conventional latitude floats a length of 2-4 roots, and when flower latitude latitude is floating long, fabric face can become coarse, and perception is deteriorated, the resistance to jail of fabric
Degree can also decline.If flower pattern needs the floating length of latitude more long really, to arrange knot to connect and be connect through carrying out knot, push down the floating length of latitude；(4) pass through
The color of yarn has Jia Bai and middle orchid, and line density is 9.7tex yarns；Weft yarn has ground weft and flower latitude, ground weft white yarn for 9.7tex adds
Line, flower latitude and promising middle blue and dark red two kinds of colors, line density 9.7tex*2 doublet cords.The line density of flower latitude is greater than ground weft,
So cause that flower latitude is not easy to be come off from fabric, more preferably, third dimension is stronger for fabric quality.
Cotton cutting motif fabric, it is soft, comfortably, and based on fresh and clean striped, thinner warp thread so that cloth cover is thin
Greasy, higher through close, the flower pattern of formation is compact, and the third dimension of patterns of composition is strong, is looked at by the table of consumer, mainly as summer
Shirt fabric.
2. Fabric Design specification：
Fabric breadth 156cm, through close 524/10cm, through close 504/10cm, the place's filling density that rockets is 594 to upper machine to fabric
Root/10cm, the place's filling density that do not rocket is 364/10cm, the average 381/10cm of filling density of fabric.Enter per reed 4.Longitude and latitude color yarn arrangement：
Plus white 8, middle blue 2, often spend radical 10；Weft yarn arrangement：Plus white 46, yarn+(middle blue 1, plus white 1) * 3+ add white 46+(bright red 1,
Plus white 1) * 3, a flower weft yarn period 104.Total quantity of warps 8164,96, side yarn, body total quantity of warps 8068 is often spent
Warp thread radical 10, full width spends the flower of number 807 to subtract first 2, and it is white, white warp thread radical=807 × 8-2=6454 to subtract a color
Root, middle blue warp thread radical=807 × 2=1614 roots.The total dent number 2017 of full width, reed width 162cm, the tooth of metric system porter 124/
10cm.Looming draft is as shown in Figure 1.
3. production essentials：
Technological process of the invention：Winder → warping → sizing → pass → weave → Final finishing.
3.1 winders
From 1332MD type bobbin-winding machines.When this fabric is produced, directly buy dyed yarn, the fault of yarn in preceding road winder
Through being eliminated, it is not necessary to select high speed cone winder, but rewinding is carried out from semi-automatic bobbin winder.The type bobbin-winding machine common speed
It is 500-900m/min.This textile is cotton, and line density is 9.7tex, because yarn count is thinner, therefore selects relatively low network
Cylinder speed, winder speed is 575m/min.From low velocity winder, influence of winding tension fluctuation is small, favourable to improving cylinder yarn quality.By
Relatively low in speed, influence of winding tension packing ring selects 7.4 grams of packing ring.To ensure the quality of cylinder yarn, it is desirable to twisted with the fingers using hand held air
Connect device joint.
3.2 warpings
From Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, the type warping machine, speed of beaming between 215-1000m/min, bobbin
The capacity of frame is 768.When this fabric is produced, speed of beaming is 670m/min.Because the type warping machine speed of beaming is fast, warping
Shi Buzai carries out the setting of additional tension.
Warping matches somebody with somebody axle, plus white 6454, yarn, 96, side yarn, adds up to 6550, and the axle of trim-beam number 9 is with axle：727*2+
728*7；Middle blue 1614, the axle of trim-beam number 3 is 538*3 with axle.
3.3 sizing
From GA308 type dual-box slashers, the formula of slurry：PVA1799 30%, converted starch 70%, slurries contain
Gu rate is controlled in 7.5%, the viscosity 9-10S of slurries, using double-clip-double-nip technique, preceding squeezing roller pressure 16KN, post jacking roll-in
Power 12kn, sizing speed 50-55m/min, 80-85 DEG C of slurry groove temperature, the rate of sizing is 11%, sized warp moisture regain control 7 ±
0.5%.
Fabric is pure cotton fabric, and full starch starching can be used originally, but because yarn is thinner, the density of fabric compares again
Greatly, sizing should be wear-resisting, strengthens again, therefore 30% PVA1799 is added in the formula based on starch size, to strengthen
The weaving performance of sizing.Warp thread is 9.7tex single thread, and single thread force is relatively low, and the enhancing of yarn is considered during sizing, considers again
Yarn it is wear-resisting, therefore squeezing roller uses preceding heavy rear light technique, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is larger, is 16KN, and pressure is big, slurries quilt
Squeeze into yarn interior, sizing is impregnated with, and yarn enhancing is big；Post jacking roller pressure is relatively small, and pressure is small, sizing it is coated
Good, sizing is more wear-resisting.
After sizing, middle blue yarn and Jia Bai yarns are separated with leased line, and middle blue yarn is placed on upper strata, plus white yarn is put
In lower floor, after being separated with leased line, when rear road is gaited, it is convenient that work of gaiting takes yarn.
3.4 gait：
Menopause tablet uses 6 rows, suitable to wear.Latitude cutting motif fabric is gaited using subregion, and body warp is through proparea, is rocketed after being through
Area, if knot is connect through knot is connect through being through middle area.Heald frame use comprehensive, the total quantity of warps 8164 of page 12, wherein through part warp thread
Radical is 7044, and warp thread radical is more, comprehensive along wearing using 1-8 pages, is rocketed through 1120, and, side yarn 96 piece comprehensive using 9-12 pages makes
It is comprehensive with 1-2 pages.One 200 yarn of circulation of gaiting, in a circulation, page the 1st, 4,6 are comprehensive respectively to wear 22 yarns, and page the 2nd, 3 are comprehensive respectively to be worn
23 yarns, page 5 be comprehensive to wear 21 yarns, and page 7 be comprehensive to wear 20 yarns, page 8 be comprehensive to wear 19 yarns, and the one 9-12 pages comprehensive to wear 7 yarns.Respectively
Page heald frame heald radical be：Page 1 comprehensive 937, page 2 comprehensive 977, page 3 comprehensive 929, page 4 comprehensive 889, page 5 is comprehensive
848, page 6 comprehensive 888, page 7 comprehensive 808, page 8 comprehensive 768, the 9-12 pages comprehensive each 280.Order of gaiting is as follows：
(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,1,2,3, (9,10) * 6,4,5,6,10,8, (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,
8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,11,1,2,3, (11,12) * 6,2,3,4,12,6.
3.5 weavings：
From the GA718 type air-jet loom systems of knitting.GA718 type air-jet looms, by Shanghai Textile Machinery, factory produces, and is configured with electricity
Sub- type dobby shedding mechanism, the heald frames of page 16, loom speed is 520r/min.
Become filling density weaving：
The loom of the non-electronic spooler system of can also knitting becomes filling density fabric, and when knitting ground weft processed, spooler is normally batched,
Hua Weishi processed is knitted, by dobby steel wire rope, hook will be batched and lifted, stop batching.In actual production process, hook quilt is batched
After lifting, fell is moved after the meeting, and actual filling density is difficult control, and the quality of fabric is difficult to ensure that, can only be knitted and be made some low grade products.
Electronic take-up and electronic warp feeding are configured with GA718 type air-jet looms, in technique sets menu, are chosen to batch and is sent
Through system, filling density is set.8 kinds of filling densities can be at most designed in system as needed, this fabric sets 2 kinds of filling densities, and filling density 1 is set to
364/10cm, filling density 2 is set to 594/10cm, and chooses change filling density to weave, and then in technological design menu, chooses figure
Case is designed, and a column, input are designed in fancy：1-46 latitudes, are weaved using filling density 1, and 47-52 latitudes are weaved, 53-98 using filling density 2
Latitude, is weaved using filling density 1, and 99-104 latitudes are weaved using filling density 2, can be achieved with becoming filling density weaving function.Due to electronic take-up machine
The use of structure so that the big I of filling density is arbitrarily controlled as needed, the quality of fabric can be effectively guaranteed.
Licker-in roller：When knitting broadwise cutting motif fabric processed, because the line floating long of flower latitude is more long, it is easy to by the acicular hook on licker-in roller
Firmly flower warp or flower latitude, influence the quality of fabric, when cutting motif fabric is produced, it is necessary in one layer of frivolous cladding of seta roller surface bag
Layer, prevents licker-in roller hook yarn, and clad can not be thick, coats thickness, licker-in roller can be influenceed to the control ability of cloth cover, so as to influence
The quality of fabric.
Opening time：
Opening time is defined as 290 degree.The conventional opening time of the type air-jet loom is 290 ° -320 °, this fabric system of knitting
When, warp thread radical is more, and shed open is difficult clearly, using early opening, is conducive to shed open clear, and opening time is defined as 290 °.Adopt
Early opening is used, also one reason is：Fabric tissue is plain weave, yarns interwoven often, weft yarn be difficult it is urgent, using early opening
Be conducive to urgent weft yarn.
Weft yarn beginning flying angle：
GA718 type air-jet looms, between 80 ° -90 °, this fabric determines that weft yarn begins to fly to conventional weft yarn beginning flying angle
Angle is 95 °.The determination of weft yarn beginning flight angle, mainly determines, upper machine reed width is wide according to machine reed width on fabric, to ensure latitude
Yarn has enough flight time, often using weft yarn beginning flying angle earlier, but flying angle morning weft yarn beginning, shed open effective depth
It is small, in weft yarn flight course, the filoplume on warp thread may be encountered, or Warp opening is unintelligible, weft yarn directly encounters warp thread,
Short latitude is caused to stop platform.When this fabric is produced, the upper machine reed width of fabric is smaller, only 162cm, therefore, weft yarn has enough flying
The row time, later weft yarn beginning flying angle can be used, the beginning flying angle for selecting weft yarn is 95 °.Weft yarn beginning flying angle is not easy to again
Evening, weft yarn beginning flying angle evening, weft yarn will also reach offside shed open in the angle of regulation, and this is accomplished by larger whiff pressure, spray
Atmospheric pressure is big, irregular pick point long can be caused again, while also add the consumption of gas consumption.
Weft yarn angle of arrival：
The type loom, conventional weft yarn angle of arrival is 220 ° -230 °, and broad fabric weft yarn angle of arrival can control the latest
240°.Weft yarn reaches evening, and when weft yarn goes out shed open, shed open effective depth is small, when knitting processed easily at the selvedge of right side, forms side looped weft
Fault, influences the quality of fabric.This fabric weft yarn angle of arrival is defined as 230 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival should not be early, because weft yarn is reached
Angle morning, whiff pressure needs are larger, and pressure is big, and one side compressed air consumption is big, on the other hand easily causes irregular pick point long.
The pneumatic picking time：
GA718 type air-jet looms, are configured with 8 groups of pilot jets, when this fabric is produced, because upper machine reed width is smaller, therefore
Actually used 7 groups of pilot jets, are entirely capable of meeting the production requirement of fabric.Auxiliary spray every group 4, the auxiliary maximum spacing of spray is 6.5cm.
Loom rotating speed is 520m/min, and the angle that loom 1ms is turned over is 3.12 degree, and the reaction time of magnetic valve is 5ms, and sluggish angle is
16 °, weft yarn beginning flying angle is 95 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival is 230 °, auxiliary whole 250 ° of the spray angle of spray, and pneumatic picking technological parameter is：Gear yarn
Pin release angle=weft yarn beginning flying angle-sluggishness angle=79 °, when the first latitude is weaved, because loom is not reaching to normal rotating speed,
Weft yarn has enough flight time, and gear yarn pin release time can be with 10 ° of evening, and the first latitude gear yarn pin release angle is 89 °；Main jet sprays
The gas time is 69 ° -170 °, and when the first latitude is weaved, main jet jet angle is 79 ° -170 °, and reason is weaved with the first latitude of gear yarn pin
Shi Xiangtong；First group of pilot jet jet angle is 69 ° -130 °, and second group of pilot jet jet angle is 90 ° -150 °, the 3rd
Group pilot jet jet angle is 110 ° -170 °, and the 4th group of pilot jet jet angle is 130 ° -190 °, the 5th group of auxiliary spray
Mouth jet angle is 150 ° -210 °, and the 6th group of pilot jet jet angle is 170 ° -230 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet angle
It is 190 ° -290 ° to spend, the 7th group of pilot jet jet end time, should be identical with the whole spray angle of auxiliary spray, but due to GA718
Type air-jet loom does not have draw jet, and to prevent looped weft, last group of pilot jet end time is deferred to 290 ° of heald level time.
Whiff pressure：Main jet pressure is set as 0.22mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying is set as 0.26mpa.Machine reed width on this fabric
There is 162cm, upper machine reed width is small, weft yarn flying speed need not be very fast, thus can select less whiff pressure.Shute ratio compared with
Carefully, whiff pressure should not be big, and pressure is big, easily produces irregular pick point long.In production process, weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, from
In loom display screen, check that weft yarn is actually reached angle, between 220 ° -230 °, whiff pressure is just for actual weft yarn angle of arrival control
Regulation is no longer needed, if being actually reached angle earlier than 220 °, whiff pressure can be suitably turned down, if be actually reached angle be later than
230 °, it is necessary to increase whiff pressure, prevent that short latitude stops platform.Using less whiff pressure, gas consumption on the one hand can be reduced
Consumption, on the other hand can reduce irregular pick point long.
Gentle breeze：Conventional gentle breeze pressure is 0.08mpa, and when this fabric is produced, because weft yarn is thinner, weft yarn screen resilience is small,
Gentle breeze Stress control does not exceed 0.08mpa between 0.06-0.08mpa, and gentle breeze pressure is big, and Weft Detwisting is fast, and weft yarn is easy
Blown.
Back beam height：GA718 type air-jet looms, configuration is type dobby shedding mechanism, and conventional back beam height is 0 scale,
When this fabric knits processed, all than larger, weft yarn is not easy urgent thread count, and fell backwash is big, therefore we carry back beam height
, to 1 scale, greatly, weft yarn is easily urgent for the tension difference of so upper and lower layer warp thread for height.
Warp tension：Warp count is big, and shed open is difficult clearly, it should use larger warp tension, but this fabric warp
Relatively thin, single thread force is low, and after overall balance, tension force is set as 130kg.
4. the trimmed size of fabric：
Fabric width is 146cm, finished product through it is close be 559/10cm, broadwise has ground weft and flower latitude, and one spends middle ground weft width
2.5cm, 92 yarns of ground weft, density is 368/10cm at ground weft, and one spends middle colored latitude width 0.2cm, flower latitude 12, flower weft density
It is 600/10cm, it is 104 latitudes, average filling density=104/2.7 × 10=385 roots/10cm, warp yarn shrinkage often to spend fill yarn ends
9.0%, weft shrinkage 3.7%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%, dyeing and finishing shrinkage long is 1.0%.
Conclusion：
Limited by every reed penetration number and reed through cutting motif fabric, flower pattern can not show a candle to latitude cutting motif fabric and enrich.Latitude clipping and carving
Fabric floats the front that line long floats over fabric by latitude, forms decorative pattern, because GA718 type looms have used electronic take-up mechanism, together
8 kinds of filling densities at most can be used in one kind so that the patterning design of latitude cutting motif fabric becomes very convenient, can be according to flower pattern
It is required that arbitrarily devised filling density, also far below through cutting motif fabric, product quality is better than through cutting motif fabric difficulty of weaving.Production latitude clipping and carving
During fabric, it should be noted that below some：1. the basic organization of latitude cutting motif fabric, it is preferred to use plain weave；2. yarn count is thin；3. knit
The thread count of thing is big.Closely fine and smooth as long as 3 points more than meeting, knitting the fabric made, flower pattern is compact changeable, and perception is good,
It is used for knitting summer shirt fabric processed.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, and anyone can show that other are various under enlightenment of the invention
The product of form, however, make any change in its shape or structure, it is every with skill identical or similar to the present application
Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. a kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed broadwise clipping and carving fabric, it is characterised in that：Comprise the following steps：Fabric Design → network
Cylinder → warping → sizing → pass → weave → Final finishing；Concrete operations are as follows：
(1), Fabric Design
A. basic organization is made from plain weave；
B. rocket place, and flower latitude presses 1 with ground weft：1 arrangement, ground weft and all warp yarns, flower latitude only with the warp yarns that rocket, and
Flower latitude is floating more long, covers ground weft, floats over fabric face, with reference to the yarn of shades of colour, constitutes different style decorative pattern；
C. spend the latitude of latitude to float line long and be set as 3, when not rocketing, flower latitude sinks to the reverse side of fabric；When latitude cutting motif fabric processed is knitted,
Latitude floats long of length no more than 4, if flower pattern needs the floating length of latitude more long really, to arrange knot to connect and be connect through carrying out knot, pushes down
The floating length of latitude；
D. the color of warp thread has Jia Bai and middle orchid, and line density is 9.7tex yarns；Weft yarn has ground weft and flower latitude, and ground weft is
9.7tex adds white yarn, flower latitude and promising middle blue and dark red two kinds of colors, line density 9.7tex*2 doublet cords；
(2), winder
From 1332MD type bobbin-winding machines, when this fabric is produced, directly buy dyed yarn, the fault of yarn in preceding road winder by
Remove, it is not necessary to select high speed cone winder, but rewinding is carried out from semi-automatic bobbin winder, this textile is cotton, and line is close
It is 9.7tex to spend, because yarn count is thinner, therefore select relatively low winder speed, winder speed be 575m/min, due to speed compared with
Low, influence of winding tension packing ring selects 7.4 grams of packing ring；To ensure the quality of cylinder yarn, it is desirable to use hand held air splicer joint；
(3), warping
From Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, speed of beaming is 215-1000m/min, and the capacity of bobbin cradle is 768；This
When fabric is produced, speed of beaming is 670m/min, because the type warping machine speed of beaming is fast, additional tension is no longer carried out during warping
Setting；Warping matches somebody with somebody axle, plus white 6454, yarn, 96, side yarn, adds up to 6550, and the axle of trim-beam number 9 is with axle：727*2+
728*7；Middle blue 1614, the axle of trim-beam number 3 is 538*3 with axle；
(4), sizing
From GA308 type dual-box slashers, the formula of slurry：PVA1799 is 30%, converted starch is 70%, and slurries contain
Gu 7.5%, the viscosity of slurries is 9-10S for rate control, using double-clip-double-nip technique, preceding squeezing roller pressure is 16KN, post jacking
Roller pressure is 12kn, and sizing speed is 50-55m/min, and slurry groove temperature is 80-85 DEG C, and the rate of sizing is 11%, sized warp moisture regain control
System is 7 ± 0.5%；
Fabric is pure cotton fabric, and full starch starching can be used originally, but because yarn is thinner, the density of fabric is again than larger, slurry
Yarn should be wear-resisting, strengthens again, therefore 30% PVA1799 is added in the formula based on starch size, to strengthen sizing
Weaving performance；Warp thread is 9.7tex single thread, and single thread force is relatively low, and the enhancing of yarn is considered during sizing, and yarn is considered again
It is wear-resisting, therefore squeezing roller uses preceding heavy rear light technique, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is larger, is 16KN, and pressure is big, and slurries are extruded
Enter yarn interior, sizing is impregnated with, and yarn enhancing is big；Post jacking roller pressure is relatively small, and pressure is small, sizing it is coated well,
Sizing is more wear-resisting；
After sizing, middle blue yarn and Jia Bai yarns are separated with leased line, and middle blue yarn is placed on upper strata, plus white yarn is placed on lower floor,
After being separated with leased line, when rear road is gaited, it is convenient that work of gaiting takes yarn；
(5), gait：
Menopause tablet uses 6 rows, suitable to wear；Latitude cutting motif fabric is gaited using subregion, and body warp is through proparea, is rocketed through being through back zone,
If knot is connect through knot is connect through being through middle area；Heald frame use comprehensive, the total quantity of warps 8164 of page 12, wherein through part warp thread root
Number is 7044, and warp thread radical is more, using 1-8 page it is comprehensive it is suitable wear, rocket through 1120, side yarn 96 piece comprehensive using 9-12 pages is used
1-2 pages comprehensive；One 200 yarn of circulation of gaiting, in a circulation, page the 1st, 4,6 are comprehensive respectively to wear 22 yarns, and page the 2nd, 3 are comprehensive respectively to wear 23
Root yarn, page 5 be comprehensive to wear 21 yarns, and page 7 be comprehensive to wear 20 yarns, page 8 be comprehensive to wear 19 yarns, and the one 9-12 pages comprehensive to wear 7 yarns；Each page
Heald frame heald radical is：Page 1 comprehensive 937, page 2 comprehensive 977, page 3 comprehensive 929, page 4 comprehensive 889, page 5 comprehensive 848
Root, page 6 comprehensive 888, page 7 comprehensive 808, page 8 comprehensive 768, the 9-12 pages comprehensive each 280；Order of gaiting is as follows：(1,
2,3,4,5,6,7,8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,1,2,3, (9,10) * 6,4,5,6,10,8, (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) *
9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,11,1,2,3, (11,12) * 6,2,3,4,12,6；
(6), weave：
From the GA718 type air-jet loom systems of knitting, electronic dobby shedding mechanism is configured with, the heald frames of page 16, loom speed is 520r/
min；
Become filling density weaving：Electronic take-up and electronic warp feeding are configured with GA718 type air-jet looms, in technique sets menu, choosing
In batch feeding system of warp, filling density is set, filling density may be configured as 8 kinds；This fabric set 2 kinds of filling densities, filling density 1 be set to 364/
10cm, filling density 2 is set to 594/10cm, and chooses change filling density to weave, and then in technological design menu, chooses pattern to set
Meter, a column, input are designed in fancy：1-46 latitudes, are weaved using filling density 1, and 47-52 latitudes are weaved using filling density 2, and 53-98 latitudes make
Weaved with filling density 1,99-104 latitudes are weaved using filling density 2, can be achieved with becoming filling density weaving function；
Licker-in roller：When knitting broadwise cutting motif fabric processed, because the line floating long of flower latitude is more long, it is easy to live flower by the acicular hook on licker-in roller
Through or flower latitude, influence the quality of fabric, when cutting motif fabric is produced, it is necessary in one layer of frivolous clad of seta roller surface bag,
Prevent licker-in roller hook yarn, clad can not be thick, coats thickness, licker-in roller can be influenceed to the control ability of cloth cover, so as to influence to knit
The quality of thing；
Opening time：Opening time is defined as 290 °；
Weft yarn beginning flying angle：The upper machine reed width of this fabric is smaller, only 162cm, therefore, weft yarn has enough flight time,
Later weft yarn beginning flying angle need to be used, the beginning flying angle for selecting weft yarn is 95 °；
Weft yarn angle of arrival：This fabric weft yarn angle of arrival is defined as 230 °；
The pneumatic picking time：GA718 type air-jet looms, are configured with 8 groups of pilot jets, when this fabric is produced, due to upper machine reed width
It is smaller, therefore actually used 7 groups of pilot jets, auxiliary spray every group 4, the auxiliary maximum spacing of spray is 6.5cm；Loom rotating speed is 520m/
Min, the angle that loom 1ms is turned over is 3.12 degree, and the reaction time of magnetic valve is 5ms, and sluggish angle is 16 °, weft yarn beginning flying angle
It it is 95 °, weft yarn angle of arrival is 230 °, auxiliary to spray whole 250 ° of spray angle, pneumatic picking technological parameter is：Gear yarn pin release angle=weft yarn
Beginning flying angle-sluggishness angle=79 °, when the first latitude is weaved, because loom is not reaching to normal rotating speed, weft yarn has enough flight
Time, gear yarn pin release time can be with 10 ° of evening, and the first latitude gear yarn pin release angle is 89 °；Main jet jet time be 69 °-
170 °, when the first latitude is weaved, main jet jet angle is 79 ° -170 °, and reason is identical with when being weaved with the first latitude of gear yarn pin；First
Group pilot jet jet angle is 69 ° -130 °, and second group of pilot jet jet angle is 90 ° -150 °, the 3rd group of pilot jet
Jet angle is 110 ° -170 °, and the 4th group of pilot jet jet angle is 130 ° -190 °, the 5th group of pilot jet jet angle
It is 150 ° -210 °, the 6th group of pilot jet jet angle is 170 ° -230 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet angle be 190 ° -
290 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet end time, should be identical with the whole spray angle of auxiliary spray, but because GA718 type jets are knitted
Machine does not have draw jet, and to prevent looped weft, last group of pilot jet end time is deferred to 290 ° of heald level time；
Whiff pressure：Main jet pressure is set as 0.22mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying is set as on 0.26mpa, this fabric that machine reed width only has
162cm, upper machine reed width is small, and weft yarn flying speed need not be very fast, thus can select less whiff pressure；Production process
In, weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, from loom display screen, checks that weft yarn is actually reached angle, actual weft yarn angle of arrival control
Between 220 ° -230 °, whiff pressure is no longer needed for regulation, if being actually reached angle earlier than 220 °, can suitably turn jet down
Pressure, if being actually reached angle is later than 230 °, it is necessary to increase whiff pressure, prevents that short latitude stops platform；
Gentle breeze：This fabric produce when, because weft yarn is thinner, weft yarn screen resilience is small, gentle breeze Stress control 0.06-0.08mpa it
Between, 0.08mpa is not exceeded, gentle breeze pressure is big, and Weft Detwisting is fast, and weft yarn is easily blown；
Back beam height：GA718 type air-jet looms, configuration is type dobby shedding mechanism, and conventional back beam height is 0 scale, is originally knitted
When thing knits processed, all than larger, weft yarn is not easy urgent thread count, and fell backwash is big, therefore back beam height is brought up into 1 quarter
Degree, the tension difference of so upper and lower layer warp thread is big, and weft yarn is easily urgent；
Warp tension：Warp count is big, and shed open is difficult clearly, it should use larger warp tension, but this fabric warp is thinner,
Single thread force is low, and after overall balance, tension force is set as 130kg.
2. the production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：The fabric into
Product breadth is 146cm, finished product through it is close be 559/10cm, broadwise has ground weft and flower latitude, and one spends middle ground weft width 2.5cm, ground weft
92 yarns, density is 368/10cm at ground weft, and one spends middle colored latitude width 0.2cm, flower latitude 12, flower weft density is 600/
10cm, it is 104 latitudes, average filling density=104/2.7 × 10=385 roots/10cm, warp yarn shrinkage 9.0%, weft yarn often to spend fill yarn ends
Weave shrinkage 3.7%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%, dyeing and finishing shrinkage long is 1.0%.
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| CN109023660A (en) * | 2018-10-16 | 2018-12-18 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of design method and production technology of the long door decorative fabric of Chinese style modelled after an antique |
| CN109338651A (en) * | 2018-12-18 | 2019-02-15 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of double dynamical formula woven fabric automatic weft yarn clipping and carving mechanism |
| CN109537135A (en) * | 2018-12-18 | 2019-03-29 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of part rockets the design method and textile processes of fabric |
| CN109537146A (en) * | 2018-12-18 | 2019-03-29 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of automatic clipping and carving weaving all-in-one machine of the fabric that latitude capable of automatic changing floats long line clipping and carving spacing |
| CN112647179A (en) * | 2020-09-18 | 2021-04-13 | 江苏明源纺织有限公司 | Customized logo fabric for hotel bedding and processing technology |
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