CN106835450B - A kind of color knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing - Google Patents

A kind of color knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106835450B
CN106835450B CN201710012069.XA CN201710012069A CN106835450B CN 106835450 B CN106835450 B CN 106835450B CN 201710012069 A CN201710012069 A CN 201710012069A CN 106835450 B CN106835450 B CN 106835450B
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Prior art keywords
yarn
warp
warp thread
fabric
pipe
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CN106835450A (en
Inventor
隋全侠
瞿建新
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • D03D3/02Tubular fabrics

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses the production technologies that a kind of color knits warp-wise clipping and carving tubing, include the following steps:(1) selection of raw material;(2) rewinding;(3) warping;(4) sizing and axis;(5) drawing-in;(6) it weaves.The elastic weft yarn of selection and normal weft of yarn of the present invention, warp thread have common yarn and strong twisted yarn;Warping process need to will change a layer warp thread, clipping and carving warp thread and body warp and do warp beam respectively in table, sizing and axis will control yarn tension, adjust slashing technique parameter, ensure slashing performance;Weaving process is weaved using three axis, and control weft yarn discharges length, opening time and moves back the sword time, while to prevent side looped weft, by adjusting heald frame height, improves shed open clarity.By series of process measure, woven be smoothed out ensure that.

Description

A kind of color knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric production fields, and in particular to a kind of color knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing.
Background technology
Color knits warp-wise clipping and carving tubing, main there are three the tissue of aspect, is warp-wise tubulose, warp-wise clipping and carving, table respectively In change layer tissue.Warp-wise tubular portion is the floating long contraction of broadwise using fabric backing, and the front protuberance of fabric forms warp-wise pipe Son.Warp-wise clipping and carving part is the flower warp using a variety of colors, is formed through interlacing point in fabric face, by becoming through floating long length Change, form the pattern of various styles in fabric face, then be equipped with change woven through close technique made of, rocket part be local double layer Tissue.Warp-wise tubular portion three-dimensional sense is strong, and clipping and carving flower pattern is bright-colored, and graphic change is more.Face-back-changing weave makes two kinds of differences The yarn of color is alternately present in fabric surface, gives fabric innervation.It is by three types that color, which knits warp-wise clipping and carving tubing, Together, formation decorative pattern is life-like, and fabric three-dimensional sense is strong, is mainly used as decorative fabric for tissue fusion.The fabric is by three kinds of members Element is merged, and the weaving process requirement of these three tissues is different, and difficulty of weaving is very big, and the present invention passes through preferred Weaving process parameter, solves the problems, such as various, ensure that woven be smoothed out.
The design of this fabric forms string from beautiful legend " changing butterfly " using warp-wise tubular tissue;Utilize clipping and carving Fabric forms butterfly;Using face-back-changing weave, the warp thread of two kinds of colors is made to be alternately present in fabric surface, forms width degree Different striped, the note as broadcasting love one by one signify that young man pursues beautiful love.Entire fabric surface like One width picture scroll, does not there is some sentiment.
Invention content
Goal of the invention:In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of colors to knit warp-wise clipping and carving tubing Production technology.
Technical solution:A kind of color knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing, it is characterised in that:Include the following steps:
(1) selection of raw material:
When this fabric weaves, face-back-changing weave and clipping and carving tissue respectively use a beam of a loom, and playing pipe warp thread and body warp makes With the same beam of a loom, but since body warp interleaving degress is more, it is few to play pipe warp thread interleaving degress, can be different through crimp, weaves Cheng Zhong, rise a pipe warp thread can gradually relax, influence it is woven be smoothed out, therefore by rise pipe warp thread the twist increase to 120 twirls/ 10cm, after the twist increase for playing pipe warp thread, the elasticity of warp thread increases, and warp thread retraction is big, and the crimp for playing pipe warp thread and body warp is poor Mutation is small;
(2) rewinding:
1332MD type bobbin-winding machines are selected directly to buy dyed yarn, these yarns have already passed through before dyeing when this fabric produces Yarn clearer detects, it is no longer necessary to use High-Speed Automatic bobbin-winding machine, winder speed to be determined as 575m/min, tension washer 9g connects Hand held air splicer connector is used when head;
(3) warping:
It is 768 to select Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, bobbin cradle capacity, and speed of beaming 670m/min, collective changes Cylinder no longer carries out the setting of additional tension since speed of beaming is higher, and a flower cycle 274, full width 26 is spent, add first 40 it is white Yarn, 56, side yarn;
Weave the warp beam that layer is changed in table:During one spends, weaves and change the yarn radical of layer in table and be:20 blue yarns and 20 Pink yarn, full width blue yarn are 520, and full width pink yarn is 520, add up to 1040, warping is passed through at 2 Axis, bobbin cradle is 260 blue bobbins on one side when warping, and another side is 260 pink bobbins, and the yarn of axis latter two color Line presses 1:1 arrangement;
The warping of clipping and carving warp thread:Clipping and carving warp thread be rhodo, one spend in 64, add up to radical be 1664, be made into 3 warps Axis, warping are+555 × 2 axis of 554 × 1 axis with axis;
The warping of warp beam:One spends 10, middle grey yarn, adds up to 260, individually at axis;White body warp 3320, Including 56 side yarns and 40 plus gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head, warping is 664 × 5 axis with axis at 5 axis;One spends middle blue heavy twist to play 36, pipe warp thread, Full width 936, is made into 2 axis, is 468 × 2 axis with axis;
(4) sizing and axis:
Using ASG365 type sizing machines, sizing speed is 60m/min, and clipping and carving warp thread and Biao Li change the warp thread of layer, due to handing over It is few to knit number, not starching, and add water when axis in stock tank, by the extruding of sizing roller and squeezing roller, keeps filoplume submissive, play Guan Jing Light sizing on yarn and body warp, the rate of sizing 3%, slurry are converted starch;
The warp thread of the fabric is strand, and through close larger, yarn can fluff when weaving, and it is clear that opening is not easy, after starching Filoplume is submissive, and yarn is smooth, and it is clear that shed open is easy, and when sizing, grey yarn is placed on upper layer, and blue strong twisted yarn is placed on middle level, in vain Dyed yarn line is placed on lower layer, and intermediate to be separated with leased line, work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn;
In order to reduce the crimp difference between pipe warp thread and body warp, the unwinding tension of pipe warp thread need to have been increased.Ground passes through When yarn is unwound, creel side controls unwinding tension, and the warp beam both sides for playing pipe warp thread control unwinding tension, play pipe warp thread in this way Pretension is bigger, and yarn elongation is big, and when weaving, the retraction force for playing pipe warp thread is big, can reach and both reduce crimp difference Purpose.
(5) drawing-in:
It is gaited using subregion, the yarn in warp beam is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-4 pages;The warp thread that rockets is through middle area, uses 5-8 pages comprehensive, and clipping and carving warp thread is through back zone, comprehensive using 9-18 pages;To put leased line before gaiting well, the warp thread that rockets is placed on upper layer, cuts Flower warp thread is placed on middle level, and body warp is placed on lower layer, is separated with leased line between each layer;
It gaits and is sequentially:Selvedge yarn:(1,2) × 12, body warp:(1,2,3,4) × 10 enter per reed 2, and (5,7,6,8) × 10, the place of rocketing enters per reed 4, (1,2,3,4) × 14, and 1,2,9,10, enter per reed 2,18,18,9,18,18,10,17,17,9,17, 17,10,16,16,9,16,16,10,15,15,9,15,15,10,14,14,9,14,14,10,13,13,9,14,14,10,12, 12,9,12,12,10,11,11,9,11,11,10, enter per reed 4,3,4,1,2,3,4,10,11, enters per reed 2,11,9,11,11, 10,12,12,9,12,12,10,14,14,9,13,13,10,14,14,9,14,14,10,15,15,9,15,15,10,16,16, 9,16,16,10,17,17,9,17,17,10,18,18,9,18,18,10,9, enter per reed 4, (1,2) × 15 enter per reed 2;
One spends 274, wherein 40, the warp thread that rockets, enters per reed 4, the use of dent number is 10 teeth, warp thread total 96 at clipping and carving Root 4 enters per reed, and using 24 teeth, 138, warp thread at other plain weaves, using 69 teeth, one to spend total using dent number be 103 teeth, is put down It is 2.66/reed per reed penetration number;
(6) it weaves:
A. three axis are weaved
Select the weaving of GA747 rapier looms, loom rotating speed is 195m/min, warp thread there are four system, be respectively body warp, It plays pipe warp thread, clipping and carving warp thread and Biao Li and changes a layer warp thread;Body warp weaves ground tissue part, plays pipe warp thread and weaves warp-wise tube Point, this two parts merges, and forms warp beam;It is double-layered structure that layer segment is changed in table, and the warp thread of two kinds of colors is in cloth cover It is alternately present, the warp thread is individually at axis;Clipping and carving warp thread weaves butterfly clipping and carving part, spends interleaved number minimum, also most through crimp It is small, it needs individually into axis;Body warp uses the original let-off mechanism of loom, plays floral axis above the back rest, arrives the distance of the back rest For 12cm, the warp let-off is controlled using frictional force, clipping and carving beam of a loom is placed on the ground at loom rear, equally controls the warp let-off using frictional force;
B. lease rod
It changes a layer warp thread due to playing pipe warp thread and Biao Li and has blue yarn, it is strong twisted yarn to play blue warp thread at pipe, is changed in table The blue warp thread at layer place is the yarn of the common twist, must be divided the warp thread of different role lease rod with lease rod when weaving It opens, after preventing warp end break, spinner's wrong loose thread, the beating of blue common yarn and blue strong twisted yarn is wanted separated, prevented Backstop turner takes wrong yarn;
C. weft yarn discharges length
There is waste selvage yarn on the both sides of GA747 looms, and when non-stretchable latitude is weaved, it is upper machine reed width+10- that weft yarn, which discharges length, 12cm when this fabric weaves, since weft yarn is elastic, is easy to shrink, forms side fault, need the release length for increasing weft yarn; The left side of fabric not will produce side looped weft, the right of fabric, and weft yarn yarn tail increases 2cm, and the release length control of such weft yarn exists Upper machine reed width+12-14cm, specific length will be determined according to the actual state of each board;
D. opening time
Opening time is set as 280 °, since the institutional framework of fabric is complicated, the shed open big through crimp difference between yarn It is clear to be not easy, and selects early opening, it is clear to be conducive to shed open;
E. the sword time is moved back
When elastic force latitude and non-stretchable latitude are blended, the sword time of moving back of GA747 type rapier looms will determine according to elastic force latitude, connect latitude When sword exits shed open, the angle residing for loom is known as moving back the sword time, and it is also a key factor for influencing looped weft to move back the sword time;It is general When logical weft yarn weaves, it is identical as opening time to move back the sword time, and while connecing latitude sword and exit shed open, warp thread is in comprehensive prosposition and sets, just Clamp weft yarn well, prevent weft yarn from shrinking, but when elastic force latitude weaves, due to elastic force latitude shrink it is big, it is just comprehensive usually, warp thread is to weft yarn Chucking power it is limited, it is easy to generate looped weft fault, need increase warp thread therefore will be moved back the sword time to the clamping force of weft yarn 5 ° -10 ° are postponed, moves back the determination of sword time at 285 ° -290 °;
F. heald frame height
This fabric, which amounts to, uses the heald frames of page 18, and wherein body warp radical is more, and tension is big, and stroke of harness frames uses common dynamic The stroke of harness frames adjusting block that layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp thread are changed in table is moved down two lattice, increases the traverse of heald frame by journey;
G. Side End Number
When tubing weaves, need to use elastic force latitude, in order to form warp-wise pipe, elastic force latitude has longer floating long line, Natural selvedge out-of-flatness can be made by floating long linear shrinkage, be easy to cause crimping fault, generate crimping fault, warp-wise pipe in order to prevent Distance apart from selvedge is greater than 1.5cm, if it is less than this distance, can increase Side End Number, prevent fabric edge curl.This fabric Warp-wise pipe is larger at a distance from selvedge, and Side End Number is 28 × 2;
H. back beam height
The back rest during back beam height is selected, back beam height 90mm.It is small through crimp due to playing pipe warp thread in production process, on Layer warp thread is easy, therefore suitably reduces back beam height, has advantageously reduced the sinking of pipe warp thread;
I. warp tension is increased
Small through crimp due to playing pipe warp thread when this fabric weaves, top line is easy, therefore we use hightension Weaving, warp tension is big, and body warp tension is big, and elongation is also big, can overcome the disadvantages that body warp and plays the crimp difference of pipe warp thread, is conducive to Shed open is clear, and the tension weight of a 5kg is respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides;
J. waste selvage yarn radical
When non-stretchable latitude weaves, waste selvage yarn root commonly uses 12-16 roots, and weft yarn is easy to shrink when elastic force latitude weaves, by waste selvage yarn Increase to 20, side fault can be prevented.
As an optimization:The Fabric width of the fabric is 145cm, at fabric plain weave through it is close be 264/10cm, changed in table Layer at through it is close be 889/10cm, rise pipe at through it is close be 960/10cm, averagely through close 498/10cm, total quantity of warps is fabric 7220, wherein side yarn is 28 × 2.Through crimp 5%, latitude crimp 19.3%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 7.4%.
As an optimization:The specifications design of the fabric is as follows:Fabric breadth 156.6cm, fabric averagely through close 461/ 10cm, for upper machine averagely through close 372/10cm, total quantity of warps is 7220, wherein side yarn is 28 × 2, fabric filling density 215/ 10cm, 204/10cm of weft density on machine, upper machine reed width 194cm, porter is 140 teeth/10cm, and warp thread is 9.7tex × 2, there is 6 kinds, A indicates that white, B indicate that rhodo, C indicate that the common yarn of blue, D indicate that pink, E indicate that grey, F indicate blue strong twisted yarn;Color It is arranged to be:40A, (2C, 2D) × 10,26A, 6E, 26A, 2F, (2B, 1F) × 16,6A, 2F, (2B, 1F) × 16,26A, 4E, One to spend middle warp thread recurring number be 274, wherein 124, A yarns, 64, B yarns, 20, C yarns, 20, D yarns, 10, E yarns, 36, F yarns; Full width spends number 26 to spend, and adds first 40, and it is white to add the color of gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head line;
Full width colors warp thread radical:White warp thread radical is 124 × 26 flowers+plus 56=3320,40+side of head yarn;Rose Red warp thread radical is 64 × 26=1664, flowers, and the common yarn radical of blue is 20 × 26=520, flowers, and pink dyed yarn radical is 20 × 26=520, flowers, grey dyed yarn radical are 260, and blue strong twisted yarn radical is 36 × 26=936, flowers;Weft yarn is white, is had Two kinds of 9.7tex × 2 and (9.7tex × 2+40D), by 1:1 arrangement.
Advantageous effect:The elastic weft yarn of selection and normal weft of yarn of the present invention, warp thread have common yarn and strong twisted yarn;It is whole A layer warp thread, clipping and carving warp thread and body warp need to will be changed in table through process and does warp beam respectively, and simultaneously axis will control yarn tension to sizing, adjust Whole slashing technique parameter ensures slashing performance;Weaving process using three axis weave, control weft yarn release length, opening time and It moves back the sword time, while to prevent side looped weft, by adjusting heald frame height, improve shed open clarity.Pass through series of process Measure ensure that woven be smoothed out.
This fabric forms string using 16 blue warp thread, and string is with elastic force latitude using warp-wise tubular tissue, common latitude 1:1 arrangement;Using 32 rhodo warp thread, it is made into butterfly, the butterfly of formation is warp-wise cutting motif fabric;Use 20 blue yarns With 20 pink colour yarns, note is formd, note is face-back-changing weave, and for the effect of prominent note, textura epidermoidea is plain weave The inner layer of fabric, note is latitude galassing, and long line is floated since inner layer group is woven with longer latitude, under the elastic force effect of weft yarn, fabric Surface slightly protuberance form note.Note width degree is different, and fabric is made to have dynamic and three-dimensional sense.
Exchangeable cloth is all there are one common feature in tubing, cutting motif fabric, table, warp thread all there are two system, The some areas for forming these fabrics can change through close or filling density, require that the long line that floats of fabric wants short, such as tubing With exchangeable cloth in table, long line length is floated, fabric surface can seem coarse, not compact enough, and fabric perception is poor;Cutting motif fabric floats long line It is long, loosely flower warp, clipping and carving warp thread can be pressed from both sides and be easy to fall, influence the quality of fabric.Therefore using plain weave as the basis of fabric Tissue, surface is fine and smooth, and three-dimensional sense is strong, suitable for makeing decoration kind fabric.
Color knits that warp-wise clipping and carving tubing difficulty of weaving is big, and there are four the warp thread of system, need three axis to weave, production process In it should be noted that the following:(1) the crimp difference of pipe warp thread and body warp has been reduced;When producing warp-wise tubing, if Pipe warp thread and body warp being played on the same beam of a loom, and when axis, the unwinding tension needs for playing pipe warp thread and body warp are separately controlled, The unwinding tension for playing pipe warp thread is greater than the unwinding tension of body warp;It plays pipe warp thread to be easy, by reducing back beam height, increasing Add the measures such as warp tension, solves the sinking of pipe warp thread;(2) it when Filling-wise Elastic Fabric weaves, to prevent side looped weft, prevent Only side looped weft mainly connects latitude sword by the release length of increase weft yarn, postponement and exits the time of shed open, increase waste selvage yarn radical etc. Measure;(3) when warp-wise tubing weaves, crimping fault is easy tod produce, pipe is greater than 1.5cm at a distance from selvedge, is less than When 1.5cm, it can be solved by increasing Side End Number;(4) it is to keep shed open clear, by changing layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp thread in increase table Heald frame height, the readability of shed open can be improved;(5) be to prevent spinner's wrong loose thread, when weaving each system warp thread It is separated with lease rod.By above series of process measure, ensure that it is woven be smoothed out, the production efficiency of loom is all Reach 88% or more, has achieved preferable economic benefit.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the fabric pegging plan of the present invention.
Specific implementation mode
The present invention is further explained in the light of specific embodiments.
Specific embodiment
1, the specifications design of fabric
Fabric breadth 156.6cm, fabric is averagely through close 461/10cm, and upper machine is averagely through close 372/10cm, always through root Number is 7220, and wherein side yarn is 28 × 2,215/10cm of fabric filling density, 204/10cm of weft density on machine, upper machine reed width 194cm, porter are 140 teeth/10cm, and warp thread is 9.7tex × 2, have 6 kinds, A indicates that white, B indicate that rhodo, C indicate that blue is general Logical yarn, D indicate that pink, E indicate that grey, F indicate blue strong twisted yarn;Color is arranged to be:40A, (2C, 2D) × 10,26A, 6E, 26A, 2F, (2B, 1F) × 16,6A, 2F, it is 274, wherein A yarns that middle warp thread recurring number is spent in (2B, 1F) × 16,26A, 4E, one 124,64, B yarns, 20, C yarns, 20, D yarns, 10, E yarns, 36, F yarns.Full width spends number 26 to spend, and adds first 40, adds gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head line Color be white.
Full width colors warp thread radical:White warp thread radical is 124 × 26 flowers+plus 56=3320,40+side of head yarn;Rose Red warp thread radical is 64 × 26=1664, flowers, and the common yarn radical of blue is 20 × 26=520, flowers, and pink dyed yarn radical is 20 × 26=520, flowers, grey dyed yarn radical are 260, and blue strong twisted yarn radical is 36 × 26=936, flowers.Weft yarn is white, is had Two kinds of 9.7tex × 2 and (9.7tex × 2+40D), by 1:1 arrangement, as shown in the fabric pegging plan of Fig. 1.
2, the production essentials of fabric
The selection of 1 raw material
When this fabric weaves, face-back-changing weave and clipping and carving tissue have respectively used a beam of a loom, play pipe warp thread and body warp Using the same beam of a loom, but since body warp interleaving degress is more, pipe warp thread interleaving degress is few, can be different through crimp, weaving In the process, playing pipe warp thread can gradually relax, and influence woven be smoothed out.Therefore we in process of production, carry out technique Optimization, to reduce the crimp difference of two kinds of warp thread, used method is to have increased the twist of pipe warp thread, common 9.7tex × 2 twist factor is between 390-410, and the twist is about 93 twirls/10cm, and when this fabric produces, the twist of other warp thread is constant, The twist for playing pipe warp thread is increased into 120 twirls/10cm.After the twist increase for playing pipe warp thread, the elasticity of warp thread increases, warp thread retraction Greatly, the crimp difference for playing pipe warp thread and body warp becomes smaller.
2 rewindings
Select 1332MD type bobbin-winding machines.When this fabric produces, dyed yarn is directly bought, these yarns have already passed through before dyeing Yarn clearer detects, and the quality of yarn can be guaranteed, it is no longer necessary to use High-Speed Automatic bobbin-winding machine.Winder speed is determined as 575m/min, tension washer 9g use hand held air splicer connector when connector.3 warpings
It is 768 to select Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, bobbin cradle capacity, and speed of beaming 670m/min, collective changes Cylinder no longer carries out the setting of additional tension since speed of beaming is higher.One flower cycle 274, full width 26 is spent, add first 40 it is white Yarn, 56, side yarn.
Weave the warp beam that layer is changed in table:During one spends, weaves and change the yarn radical of layer in table and be:20 blue yarns and 20 Pink yarn, full width blue yarn are 520, and 520, full width pink yarn adds up to 1040, warping at 2 warp beams, Bobbin cradle is 260 blue bobbins on one side when warping, and another side is 260 pink bobbins, and the yarn of axis latter two color By 1:1 arrangement.
The warping of clipping and carving warp thread:Clipping and carving warp thread be rhodo, one spend in 64, add up to radical be 1664, be made into 3 warps Axis, warping are+555 × 2 axis of 554 × 1 axis with axis.
The warping of warp beam:One spends 10, middle grey yarn, adds up to 260, individually at axis;White body warp 3320, Including 56 side yarns and 40 plus gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head, warping is 664 × 5 axis with axis at 5 axis;One spends middle blue heavy twist to play 36, pipe warp thread, Full width 936, is made into 2 axis, is 468 × 2 axis with axis.
4 sizing and axis
Using ASG365 type sizing machines, sizing speed is 60m/min.Clipping and carving warp thread and Biao Li change the warp thread of layer, due to handing over It is few to knit number, not starching, and add water when axis in stock tank, by the extruding of sizing roller and squeezing roller, keep filoplume submissive.Play Guan Jing Light sizing on yarn and body warp, the rate of sizing 3%, slurry are converted starch.
The warp thread of the fabric is strand, and through close larger, yarn can fluff when weaving, and it is clear that opening is not easy, after starching Filoplume is submissive, and yarn is smooth, and shed open is easy clear.When sizing, grey yarn is placed on upper layer, and blue strong twisted yarn is placed on middle level, in vain Dyed yarn line is placed on lower layer, and intermediate to be separated with leased line, work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn.
In order to reduce the crimp difference between pipe warp thread and body warp, the unwinding tension of pipe warp thread need to have been increased.Ground passes through When yarn is unwound, creel side controls unwinding tension, and the warp beam both sides for playing pipe warp thread control unwinding tension, play pipe warp thread in this way Pretension is bigger, and yarn elongation is big, and when weaving, the retraction force for playing pipe warp thread is big, can reach and both reduce crimp difference Purpose.
5 drawing-ins
It is gaited using subregion, the yarn in warp beam is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-4 pages;The warp thread that rockets is through middle area, uses 5-8 pages comprehensive, and clipping and carving warp thread is through back zone, comprehensive using 9-18 pages.To put leased line before gaiting well, the warp thread that rockets is placed on upper layer, cuts Flower warp thread is placed on middle level, and body warp is placed on lower layer, is separated with leased line between each layer, first, work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn, second is that The work that prevents from gaiting takes wrong yarn, because playing the warp thread for changing layer in pipe warp thread and table has same color, if separated without leased line, wears Comprehensive work is easy to take wrong yarn.
It gaits and is sequentially:Selvedge yarn:(1,2) × 12, body warp:(1,2,3,4) × 10 enter per reed 2, and (5,7,6,8) × 10, the place of rocketing enters per reed 4, (1,2,3,4) × 14, and 1,2,9,10, enter per reed 2,18,18,9,18,18,10,17,17,9,17, 17,10,16,16,9,16,16,10,15,15,9,15,15,10,14,14,9,14,14,10,13,13,9,14,14,10,12, 12,9,12,12,10,11,11,9,11,11,10, enter per reed 4,3,4,1,2,3,4,10,11, enters per reed 2,11,9,11,11, 10,12,12,9,12,12,10,14,14,9,13,13,10,14,14,9,14,14,10,15,15,9,15,15,10,16,16, 9,16,16,10,17,17,9,17,17,10,18,18,9,18,18,10,9, enter per reed 4, (1,2) × 15 enter per reed 2.
One spends 274, wherein 40, the warp thread that rockets, enters per reed 4, the use of dent number is 10 teeth, warp thread total 96 at clipping and carving Root 4 enters per reed, and using 24 teeth, 138, warp thread at other plain weaves, using 69 teeth, one to spend total using dent number be 103 teeth, is put down It is 2.66/reed per reed penetration number.
6 weavings
Three axis are weaved
It is 195m/min to select the weaving of GA747 rapier looms, loom rotating speed.Warp thread there are four system, be respectively body warp, It plays pipe warp thread, clipping and carving warp thread and Biao Li and changes a layer warp thread.Body warp weaves ground tissue part, plays pipe warp thread and weaves warp-wise tube Point, this two parts merges, and forms warp beam;It is double-layered structure that layer segment is changed in table, and the warp thread of two kinds of colors is in cloth cover It is alternately present, the warp thread is individually at axis;Clipping and carving warp thread weaves butterfly clipping and carving part, spends interleaved number minimum, also most through crimp It is small, it needs individually into axis.Body warp uses the original let-off mechanism of loom, plays floral axis above the back rest, arrives the distance of the back rest For 12cm or so, the warp let-off is controlled using frictional force, clipping and carving beam of a loom is placed on the ground at loom rear, is equally sent using frictional force control Through.
Lease rod
It changes a layer warp thread due to playing pipe warp thread and Biao Li and has blue yarn, it is strong twisted yarn to play blue warp thread at pipe, is changed in table Blue warp thread at layer is the yarn of the common twist.The warp thread of different role lease rod must be divided with lease rod when weaving It opens, after preventing warp end break, spinner's wrong loose thread.The beating of blue common yarn and blue strong twisted yarn, separated, prevents Backstop turner takes wrong yarn.
Weft yarn discharges length
There is waste selvage yarn on the both sides of GA747 looms, and when non-stretchable latitude is weaved, it is upper machine reed width+10- that weft yarn, which discharges length, 12cm when this fabric weaves, since weft yarn is elastic, is easy to shrink, forms side fault, need the release length for increasing weft yarn. The left side of fabric not will produce side looped weft, the right of fabric, and weft yarn yarn tail increases 2cm, and the release length control of such weft yarn exists Upper machine reed width+12-14cm, specific length will be determined according to the actual state of each board.
Opening time
Opening time is set as 280 °, since the institutional framework of fabric is complicated, the shed open big through crimp difference between yarn It is clear to be not easy, and selects early opening, it is clear to be conducive to shed open.
Move back the sword time
When elastic force latitude and non-stretchable latitude are blended, the sword time of moving back of GA747 type rapier looms will determine according to elastic force latitude.Connect latitude When sword exits shed open, the angle residing for loom is known as moving back the sword time, and it is also a key factor for influencing looped weft to move back the sword time.It is general When logical weft yarn weaves, it is identical as opening time to move back the sword time, and while connecing latitude sword and exit shed open, warp thread is in comprehensive prosposition and sets, just Weft yarn is clamped well, prevents weft yarn from shrinking.But elastic force latitude is when weaving, due to elastic force latitude shrink it is big, it is just comprehensive usually, warp thread is to weft yarn Chucking power it is limited, it is easy to generate looped weft fault, need to increase warp thread to the clamping force of weft yarn, we will move back the sword time and push away Slow 5 ° -10 °, the determination of sword time is moved back between 285 ° -290 °.
Heald frame height
This fabric, which amounts to, uses the heald frames of page 18, and wherein body warp radical is more, and tension is big, and stroke of harness frames uses common dynamic Journey.The stroke of harness frames adjusting block for changing layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp thread in table is moved down into two lattice, increases the traverse of heald frame.It increases comprehensive There is following benefit after frame traverse:(1) after stroke of harness frames increase, double shed is formed, the yarn in warp beam is one layer, It is another layer that layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp thread are changed in table, reduces and changes the friction of layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp thread in body warp, table and entangle It twines, it is clear to be conducive to shed open;(2) after forming double shed, middle area, back zone yarn, tension increases when opening, is conducive to shed open Clearly;(3) after changing layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp tension increase in table, the broken end of warp thread will not increase, and can reduce instead, the reason is that It is to control the warp let-off by frictional force that clipping and carving warp thread and Biao Li, which change a layer warp thread, tension itself is small, therefore after increase tension, will not be caused The broken end of layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp thread is changed in table, but since shed open is easy clearly, warp thread is lower by the probability that sword primary drying breaks, thus Warp end break is reduced.
Side End Number
When tubing weaves, need to use elastic force latitude, in order to form warp-wise pipe, elastic force latitude has longer floating long line, Natural selvedge out-of-flatness can be made by floating long linear shrinkage, be easy to cause crimping fault, generate crimping fault, warp-wise pipe in order to prevent Distance apart from selvedge is greater than 1.5cm, if it is less than this distance, can increase Side End Number, prevent fabric edge curl.This fabric Warp-wise pipe is larger at a distance from selvedge, and Side End Number is 28 × 2.
Back beam height
The back rest during back beam height is selected, back beam height 90mm.It is small through crimp due to playing pipe warp thread in production process, on Layer warp thread is easy, therefore suitably reduces back beam height, has advantageously reduced the sinking of pipe warp thread.
Increase warp tension
Small through crimp due to playing pipe warp thread when this fabric weaves, top line is easy, therefore we use hightension Weaving, warp tension is big, and body warp tension is big, and elongation is also big, can overcome the disadvantages that body warp and plays the crimp difference of pipe warp thread, is conducive to Shed open is clear.The tension weight of a 5kg is respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides.
Waste selvage yarn radical
When non-stretchable latitude weaves, waste selvage yarn root commonly uses 12-16 roots, and weft yarn is easy to shrink when elastic force latitude weaves, by waste selvage yarn Increase to 20, side fault can be prevented.
3, the trimmed size of fabric
Fabric width 145cm, at fabric plain weave through it is close be 264/10cm, changed in table layer at through it is close be 889/10cm, Rise at pipe through it is close be 960/10cm, for fabric averagely through close 498/10cm, total quantity of warps is 7220, and wherein side yarn is 28 ×2.Through crimp 5%, latitude crimp 19.3%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 7.4%, 4, summarize
Color knits that warp-wise clipping and carving tubing difficulty of weaving is big, and there are four the warp thread of system, need three axis to weave, production process In it should be noted that the following:(1) the crimp difference of pipe warp thread and body warp has been reduced;When producing warp-wise tubing, if Pipe warp thread and body warp being played on the same beam of a loom, and when axis, the unwinding tension needs for playing pipe warp thread and body warp are separately controlled, The unwinding tension for playing pipe warp thread is greater than the unwinding tension of body warp;It plays pipe warp thread to be easy, by reducing back beam height, increasing Add the measures such as warp tension, solves the sinking of pipe warp thread;(2) it when Filling-wise Elastic Fabric weaves, to prevent side looped weft, prevent Only side looped weft mainly connects latitude sword by the release length of increase weft yarn, postponement and exits the time of shed open, increase waste selvage yarn radical etc. Measure;(3) when warp-wise tubing weaves, crimping fault is easy tod produce, pipe is greater than 1.5cm at a distance from selvedge, is less than When 1.5cm, it can be solved by increasing Side End Number;(4) it is to keep shed open clear, by changing layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp thread in increase table Heald frame height, the readability of shed open can be improved;(5) be to prevent spinner's wrong loose thread, when weaving each system warp thread It is separated with lease rod.By above series of process measure, ensure that it is woven be smoothed out, the production efficiency of loom is all Reach 88% or more, has achieved preferable economic benefit.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, anyone can show that other are various under the inspiration of the present invention The product of form, however, make any variation in its shape or structure, it is every that there is skill identical or similar to the present application Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (3)

1. a kind of color knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing, it is characterised in that:Include the following steps:
(1) selection of raw material:
When this fabric weaves, face-back-changing weave and clipping and carving tissue respectively use a beam of a loom, play pipe warp thread and body warp and use together One beam of a loom, but since body warp interleaving degress is more, pipe warp thread interleaving degress is few, can be different through crimp, in weaving process, Rise pipe warp thread can gradually relax, influence it is woven be smoothed out, therefore by rise pipe warp thread the twist increase to 120 twirls/10cm, rise After the twist increase of pipe warp thread, the elasticity of warp thread increases, and warp thread retraction is big, and the crimp difference for playing pipe warp thread and body warp becomes smaller;
(2) rewinding:
1332MD type bobbin-winding machines are selected directly to buy dyed yarn, these yarns have already passed through clearing before dyeing when this fabric produces Device detects, it is no longer necessary to use High-Speed Automatic bobbin-winding machine, winder speed to be determined as 575m/min, tension washer 9g, when connector Use hand held air splicer connector;
(3) warping:
It is 768, speed of beaming 670m/min to select Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, bobbin cradle capacity, collective's creeling, Since speed of beaming is higher, the setting of additional tension is no longer carried out, a flower cycle 274, full width 26 is spent, and first 40 white yarns are added, 56, side yarn;
Weave the warp beam that layer is changed in table:During one spends, weaves and change the yarn radical of layer in table and be:20 blue yarns and 20 it is pink Dyed yarn line, full width blue yarn are 520, and full width pink yarn is 520, adds up to 1040, warping is whole at 2 warp beams Through when bobbin cradle be 260 blue bobbins on one side, another side is 260 pink bobbins, and the yarn of axis latter two color is pressed 1:1 arrangement;
The warping of clipping and carving warp thread:Clipping and carving warp thread be rhodo, one spend in 64, add up to radical be 1664, be made into 3 warp beams, it is whole It is+555 × 2 axis of 554 × 1 axis through matching axis;
The warping of warp beam:One spends 10, middle grey yarn, adds up to 260, individually at axis;White body warp 3320, including 56 side yarns and 40 plus gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head, warping are 664 × 5 axis with axis at 5 axis;One spends middle blue heavy twist to play 36, pipe warp thread, full width 936,2 axis are made into, are 468 × 2 axis with axis;
(4) sizing and axis:
Using ASG365 type sizing machines, sizing speed is 60m/min, and clipping and carving warp thread and Biao Li change the warp thread of layer, due to interleaving degree Number is few, not starching, and when axis in stock tank plus water keeps filoplume submissive by the extruding of sizing roller and squeezing roller, rise pipe warp thread and Light sizing on body warp, the rate of sizing 3%, slurry are converted starch;
The warp thread of the fabric is strand, and through close larger, yarn can fluff when weaving, and it is clear that opening is not easy, filoplume after starching Submissive, yarn is smooth, and it is clear that shed open is easy, and when sizing, grey yarn is placed on upper layer, and blue strong twisted yarn is placed on middle level, white yarn Line is placed on lower layer, and intermediate to be separated with leased line, work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn;
In order to reduce the crimp difference between pipe warp thread and body warp, the unwinding tension of pipe warp thread need to be increased, body warp moves back Around when, creel side control unwinding tension, rise pipe warp thread warp beam both sides control unwinding tension, play pipe warp thread in this way pre- Power is bigger, and yarn elongation is big, and when weaving, the retraction force for playing pipe warp thread is big, both can achieve the purpose that reduce crimp difference;
(5) drawing-in:
It is gaited using subregion, the yarn in warp beam is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-4 pages;The warp thread that rockets is through middle area, uses 5-8 Page is comprehensive, and clipping and carving warp thread is through back zone, comprehensive using 9-18 pages;To put leased line before gaiting well, the warp thread that rockets is placed on upper layer, clipping and carving warp Yarn is placed on middle level, and body warp is placed on lower layer, is separated with leased line between each layer;
It gaits and is sequentially:Selvedge yarn:(1,2) × 12, body warp:(1,2,3,4) × 10 enter, (5,7,6,8) × 10 per reed 2, rise Enter per reed 4 at flower, (1,2,3,4) × 14,1,2,9,10, enter per reed 2,18,18,9,18,18,10,17,17,9,17,17,10, 16,16,9,16,16,10,15,15,9,15,15,10,14,14,9,14,14,10,13,13,9,14,14,10,12,12,9, 12,12,10,11,11,9,11,11,10, enter per reed 4,3,4,1,2,3,4,10,11, enters per reed 2,11,9,11,11,10,12, 12,9,12,12,10,14,14,9,13,13,10,14,14,9,14,14,10,15,15,9,15,15,10,16,16,9,16, 16,10,17,17,9,17,17,10,18,18,9,18,18,10,9, enter per reed 4, (1,2) × 15 enter per reed 2;
One spends 274, wherein 40, the warp thread that rockets, enters per reed 4, the use of dent number is 10 teeth, and warp thread is 96 total at clipping and carving, often Reed 4 enters, and using 24 teeth, 138, warp thread at other plain weaves, using 69 teeth, one to spend total using dent number be 103 teeth, average every Reed penetration number is 2.66/reed;
(6) it weaves:
A. three axis are weaved
It is 195m/min to select the weaving of GA747 rapier looms, loom rotating speed, and there are four systems for warp thread, are body warp respectively, play pipe Warp thread, clipping and carving warp thread and Biao Li change a layer warp thread;Body warp weaves ground tissue part, plays pipe warp thread and weaves warp-wise tubular portion, this Two parts merge, and form warp beam;It is double-layered structure that layer segment is changed in table, and the warp thread of two kinds of colors alternately goes out in cloth cover Existing, the warp thread is individually at axis;Clipping and carving warp thread weaves butterfly clipping and carving part, spends interleaved number minimum, also minimum through crimp, needs Individually at axis;Body warp uses the original let-off mechanism of loom, plays floral axis above the back rest, and the distance to the back rest is 12cm, The warp let-off is controlled using frictional force, clipping and carving beam of a loom is placed on the ground at loom rear, equally controls the warp let-off using frictional force;
B. lease rod
It changes a layer warp thread due to playing pipe warp thread and Biao Li and has blue yarn, it is strong twisted yarn to play blue warp thread at pipe, is changed at layer in table Blue warp thread be the common twist yarn, the warp thread of different role must separate with lease rod with lease rod, prevented by when weaving Only after warp end break, spinner's wrong loose thread, the beating of blue common yarn and blue strong twisted yarn wants separated, anti-backstop Turner takes wrong yarn;
C. weft yarn discharges length
There is waste selvage yarn on the both sides of GA747 looms, and when non-stretchable latitude is weaved, it is upper machine reed width+10-12cm that weft yarn, which discharges length, When this fabric weaves, since weft yarn is elastic, it is easy to shrink, forms side fault, need the release length for increasing weft yarn;Fabric The left side not will produce side looped weft, the right of fabric, and weft yarn yarn tail increases 2cm, and the release length of such weft yarn is controlled in upper machine reed Width+12-14cm, specific length will be determined according to the actual state of each board;
D. opening time
Opening time is set as 280 °, and since the institutional framework of fabric is complicated, big through crimp difference between yarn, shed open is not easy Clearly, early opening is selected, it is clear to be conducive to shed open;
E. the sword time is moved back
When elastic force latitude and non-stretchable latitude are blended, the sword time of moving back of GA747 type rapier looms will determine according to elastic force latitude, connect latitude sword and move back When going out shed open, the angle residing for loom is known as moving back the sword time, and it is also a key factor for influencing looped weft to move back the sword time;Common latitude When yarn weaves, it is identical as opening time to move back the sword time, and while connecing latitude sword and exit shed open, warp thread is in comprehensive prosposition and sets, and just presss from both sides Firmly weft yarn prevents weft yarn from shrinking, but when elastic force latitude weaves, due to elastic force latitude shrink it is big, it is just comprehensive usually, folder of the warp thread to weft yarn Holding force is limited, it is easy to generate looped weft fault, increase warp thread is needed therefore will to move back sword time retardation to the clamping force of weft yarn 5 ° -10 °, the determination of sword time is moved back at 285 ° -290 °;
F. heald frame height
This fabric, which amounts to, uses the heald frames of page 18, and wherein body warp radical is more, and tension is big, and stroke of harness frames uses common traverse, The stroke of harness frames adjusting block for changing layer warp thread and clipping and carving warp thread in table is moved down into two lattice, increases the traverse of heald frame;
G. Side End Number
It when tubing weaves, needs to use elastic force latitude, in order to form warp-wise pipe, elastic force latitude has longer floating long line, floats length Linear shrinkage can make natural selvedge out-of-flatness, be easy to cause crimping fault, generate crimping fault, warp-wise pipe distance in order to prevent The distance of selvedge is greater than 1.5cm, if it is less than this distance, can increase Side End Number, prevent fabric edge curl;This fabric warp-wise Pipe is larger at a distance from selvedge, and Side End Number is 28 × 2;
H. back beam height
The back rest during back beam height is selected, back beam height 90mm;It is small through crimp due to playing pipe warp thread in production process, upper layer warp Yarn is easy, therefore suitably reduces back beam height, has advantageously reduced the sinking of pipe warp thread;
I. warp tension is increased
Small through crimp due to playing pipe warp thread when this fabric weaves, top line is easy, therefore is weaved using hightension, on Machine tension is big, and body warp tension is big, and elongation is also big, can overcome the disadvantages that body warp and plays the crimp difference of pipe warp thread, it is clear to be conducive to shed open It is clear, the tension weight of a 5kg is respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides;
J. waste selvage yarn radical
When non-stretchable latitude weaves, waste selvage yarn root commonly uses 12-16 roots, and weft yarn is easy to shrink when elastic force latitude weaves, and waste selvage yarn is increased To 20, side fault can be prevented.
2. color according to claim 1 knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing, it is characterised in that:The fabric Fabric width is 145cm, at fabric plain weave through it is close be 264/10cm, changed in table layer at through it is close be 889/10cm, rise at pipe Through it is close be 960/10cm, for fabric averagely through close 498/10cm, total quantity of warps is 7220, and wherein side yarn is 28 × 2, warp Crimp 5%, latitude crimp 19.3%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 7.4%.
3. color according to claim 1 knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing, it is characterised in that:The fabric Specifications design is as follows:Fabric breadth 156.6cm, fabric is averagely through close 461/10cm, and upper machine is averagely through close 372/10cm, always It it is 7220 through radical, wherein side yarn is 28 × 2,215/10cm of fabric filling density, 204/10cm of weft density on machine, upper machine reed Width 194cm, porter are 140 teeth/10cm, and warp thread is 9.7tex × 2, have 6 kinds, A indicates that white, B indicate that rhodo, C indicate blue Common yarn, D indicate that pink, E indicate that grey, F indicate blue strong twisted yarn;Color is arranged to be:40A, (2C, 2D) × 10,26A, 6E, 26A, 2F, (2B, 1F) × 16,6A, 2F, it is 274 that middle warp thread recurring number is spent in (2B, 1F) × 16,26A, 4E, one, wherein A 124, yarn, 64, B yarns, 20, C yarns, 20, D yarns, 10, E yarns, 36, F yarns;Full width spends number 26 to spend, and adds first 40, adds gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head The color of line is white;
Full width colors warp thread radical:White warp thread radical is 124 × 26 flowers+plus 56=3320,40+side of head yarn;Rhodo passes through Yarn radical is 64 × 26=1664, flowers, and the common yarn radical of blue is 20 × 26=520, flowers, and pink dyed yarn radical is 20 × 26 =520, flower, grey dyed yarn radical are 260, and blue strong twisted yarn radical is 36 × 26=936, flowers;Weft yarn is white, there are two types of 9.7tex × 2 and (9.7tex × 2+40D), by 1:1 arrangement.
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