CN106906553A - A kind of cotton glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric - Google Patents
A kind of cotton glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN106906553A CN106906553A CN201710261241.5A CN201710261241A CN106906553A CN 106906553 A CN106906553 A CN 106906553A CN 201710261241 A CN201710261241 A CN 201710261241A CN 106906553 A CN106906553 A CN 106906553A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/43—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with differing diameters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/04—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/11—Starch or derivatives thereof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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Abstract
The invention discloses the production technology that a kind of cotton glues intertexture jacquard fabric, comprise the following steps：Winder-batch warping-sizing-pass-weave-Final finishing.Viscose rayon in the present invention is wet strong low, and wet elongation is big, and production difficulty is big, by Optimizing Process Parameters, viscose filament yarn in winder, warping, using small tension receiving coil, low velocity technique；Using the technique such as three axle weavings, double shed, early opening, slow wefting insertion, the low back rest during weaving, workshop moisture temperature is strictly controlled, strengthen a series of measures such as touring management of keeping off a car, loom efficiency has been reached 90%, it is ensured that the smooth production of the viscous intertexture of cotton.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric knitting field, and in particular to a kind of cotton glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric.
Background technology
In the viscous intertexture jacquard fabric of cotton based on cotton fiber, cotton fabric good stability of the dimension；Viscose rayon is knitted
Thing is bright in luster, soft-touch, and the drapability of fabric is good, but viscose rayon poor dimensional stability；The viscous existing cotton of intertexture of cotton is fine
The dimensional stability of dimensional fabric, the comfortableness of dress, the color that viscose rayon is increased again is beautiful, and fabric sense of touch is knitted than pure cotton
Thing is more soft, and gloss is naturally soft, and hygroscopicity is strong, the features such as dyeability and good permeability, is mainly used in summer fabric.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention：In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the invention provides the life that a kind of cotton glues intertexture jacquard fabric
Production. art.
Technical scheme：A kind of cotton glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric, comprises the following steps：Winder-batch warping-
Sizing-pass-weave-Final finishing；Wherein：
The batch warping：
Using Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, the type warping machine winding speed is in 215m/min-1000m/min, V-arrangement
Bobbin cradle, the capacity of bobbin cradle is 768；Warp thread has three kinds, 14.5tex cotton yarns, 7.3tex*2 strands and viscose filament yarn；
14.5tex cotton yarns and 7.3tex*2 strands, using speed of beaming faster, set speed of beaming as 670m/min,
Because speed is very fast, additional tension is no longer set, to improve warp quality, collective's creeling is used；
During viscose filament yarn warping, because strength will be less than cotton yarn, easily elongation, if viscose filament yarn extends over 3%, very
Easily produce through willow fault, in order to ensure the warp quality of viscose filament yarn, using relatively low speed of beaming, speed of beaming control exists
300m/min, while using less tension in Warping, additional tension Discrete control during warping, tension washer weight proparea 5g, in
Area 4g, back zone 3g；
The light blue body warp yarns of 14.5tex and side yarn, 6270 altogether, fabric tissue is plain weave, independent warping, warping into
9 axles, are 696*3+697*6 with axle；7.3tex*2 strands, 1260, fabric tissue is galassing, independent warping, is 630* with axle
2；75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn, 1440, be figured texture weave, independent warping, is 720*2 with axle；
The sizing：
From the unit warp sizing machine of ASG365 types two, formula of size is：Converted starch 62.5kg, AS-02 slurry 37.5kg, adjusts
Volume of slurry 760L；
The viscous intertexture warp thread of cotton has three kinds, and 14.5tex cotton yarns, 7.3tex*2 strands and 75D's has light people's staple, during sizing
To process respectively；
14.5tex cotton yarns, because yarn count is partially carefully, it is necessary to the rate of sizing higher, rate of sizing control should at 11%, starching
Consider coated, also to pay attention to being impregnated with, using four pressure techniques of double leachings, squeezing roller uses preceding heavy rear light mud-jacking technology, preceding squeezing roller
Stress control exists in 13KN, sizing speed control in 19KN, the control of post jacking roller pressure in 55-60m/min, slurry groove temperature control
95℃；
7.3tex*2 strands, the strength of yarn is of a relatively high, the interleaving degress of yarn is also relatively fewer, only body warp
Primarily to filoplume is submissive, filoplume is tangled when preventing opening, influences shed open definition, it is only necessary to upper light sizing for half, starching, on
4%, sizing speed control is controlled at 95 DEG C the control of slurry rate in 60-65m/min, slurry groove temperature；
75D/2 has the wet strong of light people's staple only to do strong 50%, because wet strong poor, wet elongation is big, will be with small during sizing
Tension force is advisable, and particularly to control wet area's tension force, and percentage of total elongation does not exceed 2%, and viscose glue is big due to regain, midge performance
Cotton fiber is better than, to prevent that the rate of sizing is too high during starching, the rate of sizing is high, easy brittle failure head, single leaching single pressure work is used during starching
Skill, in 10%, regain control 9%-11%, speed is low during viscose glue sizing, to prevent from producing hair during leasing for rate of sizing control
Plumage, sizing speed control uses middle temperature starching in 40m/min-45m/min, starching, and slurry groove temperature is controlled at 85 DEG C, because slurry
Viscose glue moisture absorption is more when bath temperature degree is high, and strength decline is more, easily causes broken end.Viscose glue axle standing time is not too long, prevent moisture absorption or
It is mouldy；
The weaving：
The type of selection is GA747 rapier looms, and the type rapier loom rotating speed is 195r/min；
Three axles are weaved：Warp thread has three kinds, and interleaving degress difference is big, and also big through crimp difference, it is necessary to three axles are weaved, A yarns are
14.5tex cotton yarns, fabric tissue is plain weave, and interleaving degress is more, and warp tension is big, uses the original feeding system of warp of loom；B yarns are
7.3tex*2 doublet cords, are organized as through galassing, and interleaving degress only has tabby half, using auxiliary let-off mechanism, use
Frictional force controls the warp let-off, and beam of a loom is placed in the ground at loom rear；C yarns are viscose filament yarn, and fabric tissue is figured texture weave, beam of a loom
The top of the back rest is placed in, the same with B yarns, using auxiliary let-off mechanism, the frictional force control warp let-off is sought after warp end break for convenience
Head and joint are convenient, and the yarn between each beam of a loom is separated with lease rods；
Double shed：Fabric averagely through it is close be 570/10cm, through close big, shed open is difficult clearly fabric, in order to reduce
The phase mutual friction of warp thread, makes shed open into double shed during opening, makes body warp and the warp thread that rockets, in shed open full gate, no
In same aspect, the phase mutual friction between yarn is reduced, it is so clearly favourable to shed open；Specific practice is：Body warp is through
1-8 pages comprehensive, and stroke of harness frames is constant, flower is moved down into two lattice soon through 9-12 pages of stroke of harness frames regulation so that the stroke of harness frames of flower warp is big
In the stroke of harness frames of body warp.After flower increases through stroke of harness frames, the broken end of flower warp will not increase, because spending through tension force in itself
It is smaller, after traverse increases, during shed open full gate, the warp tension ratio for bearing through small, will not cause the broken end of flower warp increases；
Opening time：From early opening, opening time is 2800, opening time morning, be conducive to shed open clear, filling density is compared
Greatly, early opening is also beneficial to urgent weft yarn；
Slow wefting insertion：Filling Insertion Time is defined as 800, through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, easily to be produced during weaving fabric during weaving
Raw three jump fault, and using slow wefting insertion, sword head enters evening shed open time, and shed open effective depth is big, is avoided that fault is jumped in generation three；
Double weft accumulator wefting insertion：Double weft accumulators knit three effects that are formed with, and one realizes mixed latitude function, and weft yarn only has a kind of color,
To prevent barriness during production, using two weft accumulators, by 1:1 ratio wefting insertion in turn；Two is to use double weft accumulators
For latitude, Stoppage can be reduced, improve fabric quality and efficiency, reason is weft accumulator yarn storage when using a weft accumulator to supply latitude
On drum, it is necessary to wind more weft yarn, if the weft yarn of winding is few, during production, weft accumulator may have little time reaction, on yarn storage drum
Weft yarn run out, cause Stoppage or float；If the weft yarn wound on yarn storage drum is more, easily slipped during weft unwinding,
Cause tension fluctuation, influence the quality of fabric, can cause when serious and cut-off by mistake；Three is to use a weft accumulator to transport at a high speed for a long time
Turn, weft accumulator is fragile；
Back beam height：Back beam height is 95mm, and from the relatively low back rest, this is clearly favourable to shed open, due to this fabric warp
Close very big, shed open is difficult clearly, and when back beam height is high, levels warp tension difference is big, and top line easily relaxes, and leads
Cause opening unintelligible；
Warp tension：The warp tension of fabric is mainly undertaken by 14.5tex body warps, using hightension, in loom both sides
Respectively configure a tension weight of 5kg；During weaving, the breadth of fabric is checked twice daily, control the breadth of fabric in 156-
Between 158cm, according to fabric breadth, the front and back position of weight is adjusted, breadth is less than normal, illustrate that warp tension is bigger than normal, it is necessary to reduce
Warp tension, weight is moved to machine rear direction；Fabric breadth is bigger than normal, it is necessary to increase warp tension, by weight to machine front side
To movement；Viscose filament yarn controls the warp let-off using frictional force, and excessive to prevent viscose from extending, the tension force of viscose filament yarn wants control less than normal
System, as long as can guarantee that shed open is clear, tension force is advisable with small, 7.3tex*2 strands, is equally controlled using frictional force, because single thread is strong
Power is high, and tension force wants control bigger than normal, is so conducive to shed open clear；
Reinforcement is kept off a car and operates touring management, and loom stops platform will be processed in time, prevent from, because down time is long, causing viscose filament yarn
Elongation, produces through willow or hangs through fault；
Humiture：Influence of the workshop moisture temperature to viscose glue is larger, strictly to control the humiture in workshop, the temperature of weaving rooms
At 22 DEG C -30 DEG C, humid control is in 60%-68%, and workshop humidity is small for degree control, and viscose glue easily fluffs when weaving, and influences shed open
Definition；Workshop high humidity, viscose glue strength declines, and broken end can increase, while serous coat easily sticks together, can equally cause opening not
Clearly, the carrying out weaved is influenceed.
As optimization：The design of the fabric is as follows：1. organized using based on plain weave；2. made using high grade cotton yarn
It is body warp, is body warp from 14.5tex cotton yarns, yarn count is thinner, and thread count is higher, and fabric tissue is plain weave, is made into
Fabrics cloth cover is finer and smoother；3. 7.3tex*2 strands are added in warp thread, is organized as through galassing, vertical stripe is formed in cloth cover, made
Fabric seems third dimension, while it is well-pressed fabric is become comparing；4. 75D/2 is mixed in warp thread light people's staple, is organized as
Small jacquard, flower pattern protrudes full, and cloth cover is uneven, and quality is frivolous closely to make fabric become beautiful, and sense of touch is knitted better than pure cotton
Thing；
The warp thread of this fabric has three kinds, and A represents the light blue cotton yarns of 14.5tex, and B represents light green color 7.3tex*2 doublet cords, C
The light green people cotton bright yarns of 75D/2 are represented, Warp Tension Test is 27A, (1C, 1A) * 7,1C, 9A, 7B, 9A, 7B, 9A, (1C, 1A) * 7,
1C, one spends the middle warp thread to have 98, wherein 68, A yarns, 14, B yarns, and 16, C yarns, weft yarn color is light blue 14.5tex cotton yarns；
Fabric breadth 157cm, fabric averagely through close 570/10cm, 323/10cm of fabric filling density, one spends 98 yarns,
26 reeds are taken, is entered per reed 3 at 14.5tex body warps, entered per reed 4 at 7.3tex*2 strands, per reed 5- at 75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn
6 enter, and average every dent penetrates number for 3.77/tooth, 145 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 164cm, total quantity of warps 8970,
Wherein side yarn is 48*2, and full width 90 spends, and remainings 54, and this 54 yarns are placed on the right of fabric with plain weave.
As optimization：In the winder, low velocity, small tension receiving coil technique, from 1332M type bobbin-winding machines, the type winder are used
Between 500-900m/min, when 14.5tex single thread and 7.3tex*2 strand winders, winder speed is set as the winding speed of machine
608m/min；The weight of tension washer is 7.4g during winder；To improve yarn qualities, hand held air splicer is used during joint
Joint；
During viscose filament yarn winder, winder speed control is in 500m/min, and winder speed is low, and influence of winding tension fluctuation is small, can prevent
Only viscose glue elongation, fluffing, produces when reducing weaving and is hung through fault through willow or generation.
As optimization：Described to pass, using space draft, the warp thread on three beams of a loom is separated with lease rod, is prevented
Work of only gaiting takes wrong loose thread；
Selvedge is comprehensive using 1-2 pages, enters per reed 4, and 14.5tex body warps are comprehensive using 1-8 pages, and 7.3tex*2 uses 9-10 pages
Comprehensive, 75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn is comprehensive using 11-12 pages；Specifically wear method as follows：Selvedge yarn is through 1-2 pages of comprehensive, every reed per 48, side
4 enter；Body (1,2,3), (4,5,6), (7,8,1), (2,3,4), (5,6,7) (8,1,2), (3,4,5), (6,7,8), (1,2,
3), enter per reed 3；(11,4,11,5,12,6), (12,7,12,8,12,1) enter per reed 6；(11,2,11,3,4), enter per reed 5；
(5,6,7), (8,1,2) enter per reed 3；(3,9,9,9), (10,9,9,9) enter per reed 4；(1,2,3), (4,5,6), (7,8,1),
Enter per reed 3；(9,9,9,10), (9,9,9,1) enter per reed 4；(2,3,4), (5,6,7) enter per reed 3；(8,1,11,2,11), often
Reed 5 enters；(3,12,4,12,5,12), (6,12,7,11,8,11) enter per reed 6；Total 90 circulations；It is another to have 54 plus gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head,
1-8 pages comprehensive along wearing, and enters per reed 3.
Beneficial effect：Viscose rayon in the present invention is wet strong low, and wet elongation is big, and production difficulty is big, is joined by optimize technique
Number, viscose filament yarn in winder, warping, using small tension receiving coil, low velocity technique；During weaving using three axle weavings, double shed,
The technique such as early opening, slow wefting insertion, the low back rest, strictly controls workshop moisture temperature, strengthens a series of measures such as touring management of keeping off a car, and makes
Loom efficiency has reached 90%, it is ensured that the smooth production of the viscous intertexture of cotton.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is structural representation of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiment of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this area
Personnel can be better understood from advantages and features of the invention, so as to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of embodiment of the invention, rather than whole embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, the every other implementation that those of ordinary skill in the art are obtained on the premise of creative work is not made
Example, belongs to the scope of protection of the invention.
Embodiment
1. the design of fabric
When the viscous intertexture jacquard weave thing of cotton is designed, the following aspects is mainly considered：1. the floating length of basic organization is short.Floating length will
It is short have two aspect the reason for：One is longitude and latitude floating long, and cloth cover can be made coarse, and perception is deteriorated；Two is also have jacquard weave group in fabric
Knit, basic organization is floating long, and body warp is not easy to clamp colored warp, influences the quality of fabric.Therefore during Fabric Design, more using flat
Line setup action basic organization；2. using high grade cotton yarn as body warp.It is body warp from 14.5tex cotton yarns, yarn count is thinner, warp
Weft density is higher, and fabric tissue is plain weave, and the fabrics cloth cover being made into is finer and smoother；3. 7.3tex*2 strands are added in warp thread,
It is organized as through galassing, vertical stripe is formed in cloth cover, fabric is seemed third dimension, while it is well-pressed fabric is become comparing；4. exist
75D/2 is mixed in warp thread light people's staple, is organized as small jacquard, and flower pattern protrudes full, and cloth cover is uneven, and quality is frivolous tight
It is close, fabric is become beautiful, sense of touch is better than pure cotton fabric.
The warp thread of this fabric has three kinds, and A represents the light blue cotton yarns of 14.5tex, and B represents light green color 7.3tex*2 doublet cords, C
The light green people cotton bright yarns of 75D/2 are represented, Warp Tension Test is 27A, (1C, 1A) * 7,1C, 9A, 7B, 9A, 7B, 9A, (1C, 1A) * 7,
1C, one spends the middle warp thread to have 98, wherein 68, A yarns, 14, B yarns, 16, C yarns.Weft yarn color is light blue 14.5tex cotton yarns.
Fabric breadth 157cm, fabric averagely through close 570/10cm, 323/10cm of fabric filling density, one spends 98 yarns,
26 reeds are taken, is entered per reed 3 at 14.5tex body warps, entered per reed 4 at 7.3tex*2 strands, per reed 5- at 75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn
6 enter, and average every dent penetrates number for 3.77/tooth, 145 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 164cm, total quantity of warps 8970,
Wherein side yarn is 48*2.Full width 90 is spent, and remainings 54, and this 54 yarns are placed on the right of fabric with plain weave.Looming draft is such as
Shown in Fig. 1.2. production essentials：
Dyed yarn is directly bought, the technological process of production is：Winder-batch warping-sizing-pass-weave-Final finishing.
2.1 winders
Winder uses low velocity, small tension receiving coil technique.From 1332M type bobbin-winding machines, the winding speed of the type bobbin-winding machine exists
Between 500-900m/min, when 14.5tex single thread and 7.3tex*2 strand winders, winder speed is set as 608m/min.From
Relatively low winder speed, advantageously reduces the generation of Winding Hairiness, while tension fluctuation can be prevented, the quality to improving winder has
Profit.When winder speed is higher, influence of winding tension fluctuation is big, and the bar of yarn is dry to be deteriorated, and filoplume can increase.Tension washer during winder
Weight be 7.4g.To improve yarn qualities, hand held air splicer joint is used during joint.
During viscose filament yarn winder, winder speed control is in 500m/min or so, and winder speed is low, and influence of winding tension fluctuation is small,
Can prevent viscose glue from extending, fluffing, be produced when reducing weaving and hung through fault through willow or generation.It is noted that protecting when viscose glue bobbin is stored
Wet, regain is big, and can make the strength of viscose filament yarn reduces, and regain is small, and viscose glue easily fluffs.
2.2 batch warpings
From Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, the type warping machine winding speed is in 215m/min-1000m/min.V-arrangement
Bobbin cradle, the capacity of bobbin cradle is 768.
14.5tex cotton yarns and 7.3tex*2 strands, using speed of beaming faster, set speed of beaming as 670m/min.
Because speed is very fast, additional tension is no longer set.To improve warp quality, collective's creeling is used.
During viscose filament yarn warping, because strength will be less than cotton yarn, easily elongation, if viscose filament yarn extends over 3%, very
Easily produce through willow fault, in order to ensure the warp quality of viscose filament yarn, using relatively low speed of beaming, speed of beaming control exists
300m/min, while using less tension in Warping, additional tension Discrete control during warping, tension washer weight proparea 5g, in
Area 4g, back zone 3g.
The light blue body warp yarns of 14.5tex and side yarn, 6270 altogether, fabric tissue is plain weave, independent warping, warping into
9 axles, are 696*3+697*6 with axle；7.3tex*2 strands, 1260, fabric tissue is galassing, independent warping, is 630* with axle
2；75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn, 1440, be figured texture weave, independent warping, is 720*2 with axle.
2.3 sizing
From the unit warp sizing machine of ASG365 types two.Formula of size is：Converted starch 62.5kg, AS-02 slurry 37.5kg, adjusts
Volume of slurry 760L.
Warp thread is cellulose fibre, it is contemplated that during formula of size, it is possible to use full starch slurry, but general converted starch, viscosity
Larger, impregnability is poor, and during this fabric sizing, warp thread is mainly 14.5tex yarns, and yarn is thinner, strengthens important, in order to improve
The impregnability of slurries, adds AS-02 slurries in formula of size.AS-02 slurries, are given birth to by Changzhou Run Li auxiliary agents Co., Ltd
Produce, the adhesiveness, impregnability to cellulose fibre are good, are a kind of converted starches of adhesion strength high, for substitution for PVA slurry, shape
Into serous coat it is flexible, smooth, dividing sinker is brisk, can reduce the generation of dry leasing filoplume.
The viscous intertexture warp thread of cotton has three kinds, and 14.5tex cotton yarns, 7.3tex*2 strands and 75D's has light people's staple, during sizing
To process respectively.
14.5tex cotton yarns, because yarn count is partially carefully, it is necessary to the rate of sizing higher, rate of sizing control is 11% or so.During starching
Should consider to be coated to, also to pay attention to being impregnated with, using four pressure techniques of double leachings, squeezing roller uses preceding heavy rear light mud-jacking technology, preceding pressure
The control of slurry roller pressure is controlled in 13KN in 19KN, post jacking roller pressure, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is big, is in order to slurries are squeezed into yarn
Inside line, acquirement is preferably impregnated with；Post jacking roller pressure is relatively small, be it is preferably coated in order to obtain, it is complete to be formed
Serous coat.The pressure of post jacking roller is not easy to again small, and squeezing roller pressure is small, is coated to, and yarn adhesion is more, and resistance is big during leasing, holds
Easily cause dry leasing broken end.Therefore rate of sizing control is more suitable 11% or so.Sizing speed control is in 55-60m/min, slurry
Groove temperature control is at 95 DEG C.
7.3tex*2 strands, the strength of yarn is of a relatively high, the interleaving degress of yarn is also relatively fewer, only body warp
Primarily to filoplume is submissive, filoplume is tangled when preventing opening, influences shed open definition for half, starching.Light sizing is only needed to, on
4% or so, sizing speed control is controlled at 95 DEG C the control of slurry rate in 60-65m/min, slurry groove temperature.
75D/2 has the wet strong of light people's staple only to do strong 50%, because wet strong poor, wet elongation is big, will be with small during sizing
Tension force is advisable, and particularly to control wet area's tension force, and percentage of total elongation does not exceed 2%.Viscose glue is big due to regain, midge performance
Cotton fiber is better than, to prevent that the rate of sizing is too high during starching, the rate of sizing is high, easy brittle failure head.Single leaching single pressure work is used during starching
Skill, in 10% or so, regain control 9%-11%, speed is low during viscose glue sizing for rate of sizing control, to prevent from being produced during leasing
Setation plumage, sizing speed control uses middle temperature starching in 40m/min-45m/min, starching, and slurry groove temperature is controlled on 85 DEG C of left sides
The right side, because viscose glue moisture absorption is more when slurry groove temperature is high, strength decline is more, easily causes broken end.Viscose glue axle standing time is not too long, prevents
Only moisture absorption or mouldy.
2.4 pass
Gait and use space draft, the warp thread on three beams of a loom is separated with lease rod, the work that prevents from gaiting takes wrong loose thread.
Selvedge is comprehensive using 1-2 pages, enters per reed 4.14.5tex body warps are comprehensive using 1-8 pages, and 7.3tex*2 uses 9-10 pages
Comprehensive, 75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn is comprehensive using 11-12 pages.Specifically wear method as follows：Selvedge yarn is through 1-2 pages of comprehensive, every reed per 48, side
4 enter.Body (1,2,3), (4,5,6), (7,8,1), (2,3,4), (5,6,7) (8,1,2), (3,4,5), (6,7,8), (1,2,
3), enter per reed 3；(11,4,11,5,12,6), (12,7,12,8,12,1) enter per reed 6；(11,2,11,3,4), enter per reed 5；
(5,6,7), (8,1,2) enter per reed 3；(3,9,9,9), (10,9,9,9) enter per reed 4；(1,2,3), (4,5,6), (7,8,1),
Enter per reed 3；(9,9,9,10), (9,9,9,1) enter per reed 4；(2,3,4), (5,6,7) enter per reed 3；(8,1,11,2,11), often
Reed 5 enters；(3,12,4,12,5,12), (6,12,7,11,8,11) enter per reed 6；Total 90 circulations.It is another to have 54 plus gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head,
1-8 pages comprehensive along wearing, and enters per reed 3.
2.5 weavings
The type of selection is GA747 rapier looms.The type rapier loom rotating speed is 195r/min.
The viscous intertexture jacquard fabric of cotton, fabric tissue is more complicated, has plain weave, small jacquard, through three kinds of galassing, and warp thread also has three
Kind, interleaving degress differs greatly, it is necessary to three axles are weaved；The easy moisture absorption of viscose glue, easily fluffing, shed open should not be clear, and production difficulty compares
Greatly, should not be produced with high speed loom.The GA747 rapier looms of our factory are produced by the frame of Wuxi four, and properties are more excellent, property
Valency is complicated for tissue than high, and the big fabric of production difficulty can give full play to the potential of the loom.
2.5.1 three axles weaving：Warp thread has three kinds, and interleaving degress difference is big, also big, it is necessary to three axles are weaved through crimp difference.A
Yarn is 14.5tex cotton yarns, and fabric tissue is plain weave, and interleaving degress is more, and warp tension is big, uses the original feeding system of warp of loom；B
Yarn is 7.3tex*2 doublet cords, is organized as through galassing, and interleaving degress only has tabby half, using auxiliary let-off mechanism,
The warp let-off is controlled using frictional force, beam of a loom is placed in the ground at loom rear；C yarns are viscose filament yarn, and fabric tissue is figured texture weave,
Beam of a loom is placed in the top of the back rest, the same with B yarns, uses auxiliary let-off mechanism, the frictional force control warp let-off.For convenience of warp end break
After seek that head and joint are convenient, the yarn between each beam of a loom is separated with lease rods.
2.5.2 double shed：Fabric averagely through it is close be 570/10cm, fabric through close big, shed open be difficult clearly, in order to
The phase mutual friction of warp thread, makes shed open into double shed when reducing opening, makes body warp and the warp thread that rockets, in shed open full gate
When, not in same aspect, the phase mutual friction between yarn is reduced, it is so clearly favourable to shed open.Specific practice is：Body warp
Be through 1-8 pages it is comprehensive, stroke of harness frames is constant, flower is moved down into two lattice soon through the regulation of 9-12 page stroke of harness frames so that the heald frame of flower warp is dynamic
Stroke of harness frames of the journey more than body warp.After flower increases through stroke of harness frames, the broken end of flower warp will not increase, because flower is through tension force
Itself is smaller, after traverse increases, during shed open full gate, the warp tension ratio for bearing through small, will not cause the broken end of flower warp increases.
2.5.3 opening time：From early opening, opening time is 280 °, opening time morning, is conducive to shed open clear, latitude
It is close than larger, early opening is also beneficial to urgent weft yarn.
2.5.4 slow wefting insertion：Filling Insertion Time is defined as 80 °, and through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, during weaving fabric during weaving
Three are easily produced to jump fault, using slow wefting insertion, sword head enters evening shed open time, and shed open effective depth is big, is avoided that three jumps of generation
Fault.
2.5.5 double weft accumulator wefting insertion:Double weft accumulators knit three effects that are formed with, and one is to realize mixed latitude function, and weft yarn only has one
Color is planted, to prevent barriness during production, using two weft accumulators, by 1:1 ratio wefting insertion in turn；Two is using double
Weft accumulator supplies latitude, can reduce Stoppage, improves fabric quality and efficiency.Reason is when using a weft accumulator to supply latitude, to store up latitude
On device yarn storage drum, it is necessary to wind more weft yarn, if the weft yarn of winding is few, during production, weft accumulator may have little time reaction, storage
Weft yarn on yarn drum runs out, and causes Stoppage or float；If the weft yarn wound on yarn storage drum is more, easy during weft unwinding
Slip, cause tension fluctuation, influence the quality of fabric, can cause when serious and cut-off by mistake；Three is to use a weft accumulator for a long time
Run at high speed, weft accumulator is fragile.
2.5.6 back beam height：Back beam height is 95mm, and from the relatively low back rest, this is clearly favourable to shed open.Due to originally knitting
Through close very big, shed open is difficult clearly thing, and when back beam height is high, greatly, top line is easily loose for levels warp tension difference
Relax, cause opening unintelligible.
2.5.7 warp tension：The warp tension of fabric is mainly undertaken by 14.5tex body warps.Using hightension, in loom
Both sides respectively configure a tension weight of 5kg；During weaving, the breadth of fabric is checked twice daily, control the breadth of fabric to exist
Between 156-158cm, according to fabric breadth, adjust the front and back position of weight, breadth is less than normal, illustrate warp tension it is bigger than normal, it is necessary to
Reduce warp tension, weight is moved to machine rear direction；Fabric breadth is bigger than normal, it is necessary to increase warp tension, by weight to machine before
Fang Fangxiang is moved.Viscose filament yarn controls the warp let-off using frictional force, excessive to prevent viscose from extending, and the tension force of viscose filament yarn is inclined
Small control, as long as can guarantee that shed open is clear, tension force is advisable with small.7.3tex*2 strands, are equally controlled, due to list using frictional force
Yarn strength is high, and tension force wants control bigger than normal, is so conducive to shed open clear.
2.5.8 the touring management of operation of keeping off a car is strengthened, loom stops platform will be processed in time, prevent from, because down time is long, causing to glue
Glue filament extension, produces through willow or hangs through fault.
2.5.9 humiture:Influence of the workshop moisture temperature to viscose glue is larger, strictly to control the humiture in workshop, weaves car
Between temperature control at 22 DEG C -30 DEG C, humid control is in 60%-68%, and workshop humidity is small, viscose glue weave when easily fluff, shadow
Ring shed open definition；Workshop high humidity, viscose glue strength declines, and broken end can increase, while serous coat easily sticks together, can equally cause
Opening is unclear, the carrying out that influence is weaved.
3. the trimmed size of fabric
Fabric width is 146cm, (57.5 inches), and finished product is through close 614/10cm (156 pieces/inch), finished product filling density 354
Root/10cm (90 pieces/inch), warp thread weave shrinkage is 8.9%, and weft shrinkage is 4.1%, and width shrinkage is 7.1%.Total quantity of warps
It is 8970.
The viscous intertexture of cotton in the present invention in process of production it is noted that it is following some：1. viscose filament yarn produces Shi Ge roads work
Sequence will be using small tension receiving coil, guarantor's elongation technique；2. procedure is compact before and after, and the stand-by period of each procedure is shortened as far as possible, prevents
Only viscose glue moisture absorption, causes strength to reduce and cause wet elongation；3. operative skill of keeping off a car to be improved, and parking process speed is fast, prevents
Only viscose filament yarn elongation；4. the humiture requirement in pair workshop is high, and when relative humidity is more than 70%, regain can interrogate fast increase,
Viscose glue strength can interrogate fast decline；5. viscose filament yarn is needed individually into axle, otherwise due to the difference of shrinkage, easily occur through willow or
Hang through fault.By above series of technological measure, loom efficiency is set to have reached 90%, it is ensured that the smooth life of the viscous intertexture of cotton
Produce.
Claims (4)
1. a kind of cotton glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that：Comprise the following steps：Winder-batch warping-
Sizing-pass-weave-Final finishing；Wherein：
The batch warping：
Using Benniger ZDA type beam warpers, the type warping machine winding speed is in 215m/min-1000m/min, V-arrangement bobbin
Frame, the capacity of bobbin cradle is 768；Warp thread has three kinds, 14.5tex cotton yarns, 7.3tex*2 strands and viscose filament yarn；
14.5tex cotton yarns and 7.3tex*2 strands, using speed of beaming faster, set speed of beaming as 670m/min, due to
Speed is very fast, no longer sets additional tension, to improve warp quality, uses collective's creeling；
During viscose filament yarn warping, because strength will be less than cotton yarn, easily elongation, if viscose filament yarn extends over 3%, it is easy to
Produce through willow fault, in order to ensure the warp quality of viscose filament yarn, using relatively low speed of beaming, speed of beaming control exists
300m/min, while using less tension in Warping, additional tension Discrete control during warping, tension washer weight proparea 5g, in
Area 4g, back zone 3g；
The light blue body warp yarns of 14.5tex and side yarn, 6270 altogether, fabric tissue is plain weave, independent warping, warping into 9 axles,
It is 696*3+697*6 with axle；7.3tex*2 strands, 1260, fabric tissue is galassing, independent warping, is 630*2 with axle；
75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn, 1440, be figured texture weave, independent warping, is 720*2 with axle；
The sizing：
From the unit warp sizing machine of ASG365 types two, formula of size is：Converted starch 62.5kg, AS-02 slurry 37.5kg, body of sizing mixing
Product 760L；
The viscous intertexture warp thread of cotton has three kinds, and 14.5tex cotton yarns, 7.3tex*2 strands and 75D's has light people's staple, to divide during sizing
Manage in other places；
14.5tex cotton yarns, because yarn count is partially thin, it is necessary to the rate of sizing higher, rate of sizing control should consider at 11%, starching
It is coated, also to pay attention to being impregnated with, using four pressure techniques of double leachings, squeezing roller uses preceding heavy rear light mud-jacking technology, preceding squeezing roller pressure
Control is controlled 95 in 13KN, sizing speed control in 19KN, the control of post jacking roller pressure in 55-60m/min, slurry groove temperature
℃；
7.3tex*2 strands, the strength of yarn is of a relatively high, and the interleaving degress of yarn is also relatively fewer, only the one of body warp
Primarily to filoplume is submissive, filoplume is tangled when preventing opening, influences shed open definition, it is only necessary to upper light sizing, starching for half, starching
4%, sizing speed control is controlled at 95 DEG C in 60-65m/min, slurry groove temperature for rate control；
75D/2 has the wet strong of light people's staple only to do strong 50%, because wet strong poor, wet elongation is big, will be with small tension receiving coil during sizing
It is advisable, particularly controls wet area's tension force, percentage of total elongation does not exceed 2%, and viscose glue is big due to regain, and midge performance is excellent
To prevent that the rate of sizing is too high when cotton fiber, starching, the rate of sizing is high, easy brittle failure head, using the single pressure technique of single leaching during starching, on
, in 10%, regain control 9%-11%, speed is low during viscose glue sizing for the control of slurry rate, to prevent from producing filoplume during leasing, slurry
Yarn speed control uses middle temperature starching in 40m/min-45m/min, starching, and slurry groove temperature is controlled at 85 DEG C, because stock tank temperature
Viscose glue moisture absorption is more when spending high, and strength decline is more, easily causes broken end.Viscose glue axle standing time is not too long, prevents moisture absorption or mouldy；
The weaving：
The type of selection is GA747 rapier looms, and the type rapier loom rotating speed is 195r/min；
Three axles are weaved：Warp thread has three kinds, and interleaving degress difference is big, and also big through crimp difference, it is necessary to three axles are weaved, A yarns are
14.5tex cotton yarns, fabric tissue is plain weave, and interleaving degress is more, and warp tension is big, uses the original feeding system of warp of loom；B yarns are
7.3tex*2 doublet cords, are organized as through galassing, and interleaving degress only has tabby half, using auxiliary let-off mechanism, use
Frictional force controls the warp let-off, and beam of a loom is placed in the ground at loom rear；C yarns are viscose filament yarn, and fabric tissue is figured texture weave, beam of a loom
The top of the back rest is placed in, the same with B yarns, using auxiliary let-off mechanism, the frictional force control warp let-off is sought after warp end break for convenience
Head and joint are convenient, and the yarn between each beam of a loom is separated with lease rods；
Double shed：Fabric averagely through it is close be 570/10cm, through close big, shed open is difficult clearly fabric, in order to reduce opening
When warp thread phase mutual friction, make shed open into double shed, make body warp and rocket warp thread, in shed open full gate, not same
In one aspect, the phase mutual friction between yarn is reduced, it is so clearly favourable to shed open；Specific practice is：Body warp is through 1-8 pages
Comprehensive, stroke of harness frames is constant, flower is moved down into two lattice soon through 9-12 pages of stroke of harness frames regulation so that the stroke of harness frames of flower warp is passed through more than ground
The stroke of harness frames of yarn.After flower increases through stroke of harness frames, the broken end of flower warp will not increase, because flower compares in itself through tension force
It is small, after traverse increases, during shed open full gate, the warp tension ratio for bearing through small, will not cause the broken end of flower warp increases；
Opening time：From early opening, opening time is 280 °, opening time morning, is conducive to shed open clear, filling density than larger,
Early opening is also beneficial to urgent weft yarn；
Slow wefting insertion：Filling Insertion Time is defined as 80 °, and through close big, shed open is not easy clearly fabric during weaving, easily generation three during weaving
Fault is jumped, using slow wefting insertion, sword head enters evening shed open time, and shed open effective depth is big, is avoided that fault is jumped in generation three；
Double weft accumulator wefting insertion：Double weft accumulators knit three effects that are formed with, and one realizes mixed latitude function, and weft yarn only has a kind of color, produces
When to prevent barriness, using two weft accumulators, by 1:1 ratio wefting insertion in turn；Two is to supply latitude using double weft accumulators,
Can reduce Stoppage, improve fabric quality and efficiency, reason is when using a weft accumulator to supply latitude, on weft accumulator yarn storage drum,
More weft yarn must be wound, if the weft yarn of winding is few, during production, weft accumulator may have little time reaction, the latitude on yarn storage drum
Yarn runs out, and causes Stoppage or float；If the weft yarn wound on yarn storage drum is more, easily slipped during weft unwinding, caused
Tension fluctuation, influences the quality of fabric, can cause when serious and cut-off by mistake；Three are run at high speed for a long time using a weft accumulator,
Weft accumulator is fragile；
Back beam height：Back beam height is 95mm, and from the relatively low back rest, this is clearly favourable to shed open, because this fabric is through close non-
Chang great, shed open is difficult clearly, and when back beam height is high, levels warp tension difference is big, and top line easily relaxes, and causes out
Mouth is unintelligible；
Warp tension：The warp tension of fabric is mainly undertaken by 14.5tex body warps, using hightension, is respectively matched somebody with somebody in loom both sides
Put a tension weight of 5kg；During weaving, the breadth of fabric is checked twice daily, control the breadth of fabric in 156-158cm
Between, according to fabric breadth, the front and back position of weight being adjusted, breadth is less than normal, illustrates that warp tension is bigger than normal and is opened, it is necessary to reduce upper machine
Power, weight is moved to machine rear direction；Fabric breadth is bigger than normal, it is necessary to increase warp tension, and weight is moved to machine forward direction；
Viscose filament yarn controls the warp let-off using frictional force, and excessive to prevent viscose from extending, the tension force of viscose filament yarn wants control less than normal, as long as
Can guarantee that shed open is clear, tension force is advisable with small, 7.3tex*2 strands, is equally controlled using frictional force, because single thread force is high,
Power wants control bigger than normal, is so conducive to shed open clear；
Reinforcement is kept off a car and operates touring management, and loom stops platform will be processed in time, prevent from, because down time is long, causing viscose filament yarn to be stretched
It is long, produce through willow or hang through fault；
Humiture：Influence of the workshop moisture temperature to viscose glue is larger, strictly to control the humiture in workshop, the temperature control of weaving rooms
, at 22 DEG C -30 DEG C, humid control is in 60%-68%, and workshop humidity is small for system, and viscose glue easily fluffs when weaving, and influence shed open is clear
Degree；Workshop high humidity, viscose glue strength declines, and broken end can increase, while serous coat easily sticks together, can equally cause opening unclear,
The carrying out that influence is weaved.
2. cotton according to claim 1 glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that：The design of the fabric
It is as follows：1. organized using based on plain weave；2. using high grade cotton yarn as body warp, from 14.5tex cotton yarns for pass through
Yarn, yarn count is thinner, and thread count is higher, and fabric tissue is plain weave, and the fabrics cloth cover being made into is finer and smoother；3. added in warp thread
7.3tex*2 strands, are organized as through galassing, and vertical stripe is formed in cloth cover, and fabric is seemed third dimension, while becoming fabric
Compare well-pressed；4. 75D/2 is mixed in warp thread light people's staple, is organized as small jacquard, and flower pattern protrudes full, and cloth cover is concavo-convex to be had
Cause, quality is frivolous closely to make fabric become beautiful, and sense of touch is better than pure cotton fabric；
The warp thread of this fabric has three kinds, and A represents the light blue cotton yarns of 14.5tex, and B represents light green color 7.3tex*2 doublet cords, and C is represented
The light green people cotton bright yarns of 75D/2, Warp Tension Test is 27A, (1C, 1A) * 7,1C, 9A, 7B, 9A, 7B, 9A, (1C, 1A) * 7,1C, one
Spending middle warp thread has 98, wherein 68, A yarns, 14, B yarns, 16, C yarns, and weft yarn color is light blue 14.5tex cotton yarns；
Fabric breadth 157cm, fabric averagely through close 570/10cm, 323/10cm of fabric filling density, one spends 98 yarns, take
26 reeds, enter at 14.5tex body warps per reed 3, enter per reed 4 at 7.3tex*2 strands, enter per reed 5-6 at 75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn,
Average every dent penetrates number for 3.77/tooth, 145 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 164cm, total quantity of warps 8970, wherein
Side yarn is 48*2, and full width 90 spends, and remainings 54, and this 54 yarns are placed on the right of fabric with plain weave.
3. cotton according to claim 2 glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that：In the winder, make
With low velocity, small tension receiving coil technique, from 1332M type bobbin-winding machines, the winding speed of the type bobbin-winding machine between 500-900m/min,
When 14.5tex single thread and 7.3tex*2 strand winders, winder speed is set as 608m/min；The weight of tension washer is during winder
7.4g；To improve yarn qualities, hand held air splicer joint is used during joint；
During viscose filament yarn winder, winder speed control is in 500m/min, and winder speed is low, and influence of winding tension fluctuation is small, can prevent from gluing
Glue elongation, fluffing, produce when reducing weaving and are hung through fault through willow or generation.
4. cotton according to claim 2 glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that：It is described to pass, adopt
With space draft, the warp thread on three beams of a loom is separated with lease rod, and the work that prevents from gaiting takes wrong loose thread；
Selvedge is comprehensive using 1-2 pages, enters per reed 4, and 14.5tex body warps are comprehensive using 1-8 pages, and 7.3tex*2 is comprehensive using 9-10 pages,
75D/2 people's cotton bright yarn, it is comprehensive using 11-12 pages；Specifically wear method as follows：Selvedge yarn is through 1-2 pages of comprehensive, every reed 4 per 48, side
Enter；Body (1,2,3), (4,5,6), (7,8,1), (2,3,4), (5,6,7) (8,1,2), (3,4,5), (6,7,8), (1,2,
3), enter per reed 3；(11,4,11,5,12,6), (12,7,12,8,12,1) enter per reed 6；(11,2,11,3,4), enter per reed 5；
(5,6,7), (8,1,2) enter per reed 3；(3,9,9,9), (10,9,9,9) enter per reed 4；(1,2,3), (4,5,6), (7,8,1),
Enter per reed 3；(9,9,9,10), (9,9,9,1) enter per reed 4；(2,3,4), (5,6,7) enter per reed 3；(8,1,11,2,11), often
Reed 5 enters；(3,12,4,12,5,12), (6,12,7,11,8,11) enter per reed 6；Total 90 circulations；It is another to have 54 plus gauze kerchief worn on a woman's head,
1-8 pages comprehensive along wearing, and enters per reed 3.
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| CN107299445B (en) * | 2017-07-02 | 2018-05-25 | 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 | The method for weaving of frivolous concave-convex cotton blanket based on honeycomb weave |
| CN108708030A (en) * | 2018-05-31 | 2018-10-26 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of product design of cool health care fabric and its production technology |
| CN110284241A (en) * | 2019-07-08 | 2019-09-27 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of colour combination spins the design method and production technology of effect fabric |
| CN110284241B (en) * | 2019-07-08 | 2020-10-16 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Design method and production process of color-imitating textile fabric |
| CN111218751A (en) * | 2019-12-16 | 2020-06-02 | 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 | Isatis tinctoria viscose jacquard fabric and production method thereof |
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