CN110284241A - A kind of colour combination spins the design method and production technology of effect fabric - Google Patents
A kind of colour combination spins the design method and production technology of effect fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110284241A CN110284241A CN201910609687.1A CN201910609687A CN110284241A CN 110284241 A CN110284241 A CN 110284241A CN 201910609687 A CN201910609687 A CN 201910609687A CN 110284241 A CN110284241 A CN 110284241A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
- D03D1/0035—Protective fabrics
- D03D1/007—UV radiation protecting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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Abstract
The invention discloses design methods and production technology that a kind of colour combination spins effect fabric, include the following steps: winder；Warping；Sizing；It gaits；The preparation of weft yarn；Weaving.The present invention selects the chinlon filament of purple/white dichromatism, is processed into cladding wire, copies the color-woven fabric that color spins effect, can reduce production cost；Lilac color is presented in the material below that interweaves, and assigns fabric a kind of romantic tone；Chinlon filament selects uvioresistant polyamide fibre, can shield 97% or more ultraviolet light；Cladding wire is used as weft yarn, can reduce production difficulty；Cladding wire is not twisted, because the color that the cladding wire of twisting will affect fabric spins effect.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric production fields, and in particular to a kind of colour combination spins the design method and production work of effect fabric
Skill.
Background technique
There are two types of common production technologies for the production of dyed yarn, and one is first spinning, poststaining, this is dyed yarn, usually quilt
Referred to as dyed yarn；Second is first then stock-dye to be spinned again, this is colour-spun yarns.The processing process of colour-spun yarns is long, raw
At high cost, the inside and outside solid colour of yarn is produced, fabric will not fade with washing, friction；The processing process of dyed yarn
Short, production cost is low, with the washing repeatedly of fabric, can gradually fade.Colour-spun yarns and dyed yarn, the fabric woven is in appearance
On, also there is apparent difference, the pattern that colour-spun yarns are formed, boundary is fuzzy, and pattern has dim sense, and visual effect has one kind seemingly to have seemingly
The dreamlike effect of nothing；And the pattern that dyed yarn weaves, sharp outline.The present invention utilizes dyed yarn, by selecting some spies
Fixed technique weaves out the effect of colour-spun yarns, shortens process flow, to reduce production cost for enterprise.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides the designs that a kind of colour combination spins effect fabric
Method and production technology.
Technical solution: a kind of colour combination spins the design method of effect fabric, and product design is as follows:
(1) design of cladding wire: colour combination is spun in the fabric of effect, needs a kind of special wrap yarn；Utilize air-coating
The formation mechenism of silk produces a kind of novel air yarn cladding, the fabric of effect is spun for weaving colour combination；This wrap yarn be by
The chinlon filament of the chinlon filament of purple and white, by air entangling, the air-coating silk of formation, this cladding silk fiber
Composition only has one kind, and there are two types of colors；By same filament fiber, different colours are coated, formed it is a kind of like flame,
Again like fiber dyed yarn, and like the novel composite yarn of single yarn dyeing line, for substituting colour-spun yarns, production colour combination spins the fabric of effect；
The wrap yarn that effect is spun for colour combination, not twist；Wrap yarn without twisting, two different colors of long filament
In, all respectively there are tens single fibers, fluffy and soft, these single fibers, alternating appears randomly in any position of yarn, has
A little fibers can be overturn, and appeared in the surface layer of yarn a little while, appeared in the inner layer of yarn a little while, appear in the fibre on yarn surface layer
Dimension, it is also possible to appear in the front of fabric, it is also possible to appear in the reverse side of fabric；And other fiber, it does not overturn, always
Surface layer or the inner layer of yarn are appeared in, this results in this special wrap yarn, has in the color that web surface occurs uncertain
Property, the surface color and polish of fabric produce not much, if any dim effect, and the effect of this effect and colour-spun yarns is somewhat similar, because
This can be used to copy the effect of colour-spun yarns；
(2) the uv resistance energy of fabric: the dosage of uvioresistant chinlon filament is 24.8% in this fabric, ultraviolet light
Shielding rate is 97%；
(3) comfort of fabric: using cotton fiber, viscose rayon in fabric, improves the requirement of fabric comfort；Use brocade
Synthetic fibre fiber improves conformality, the wearability of fabric；Cotton fiber in fabric accounts for 45.1%, and viscose rayon accounts for 30.1%, and polyamide fibre is fine
Dimension accounts for 24.8%, and the official regain of fabric has reached 8.7%；
(4) yarn is reasonably used, weavability is improved:
Since chinlon filament is not by twisting, wear-resisting property is poor, cannot be directly used as warp thread；
The weavability energy of cladding wire can be improved after starching in air-coating silk, but is used as using air-coating silk
Warp thread, there are three side effects: first is that needing to influence the feature of environmental protection of fabric when chinlon filament starching using PVA slurry, second is that bright and beautiful
When synthetic fibre long filament starching, the air of cladding wire is compressed, and the fluffy performance of fabric will receive influence, to will affect the feel of fabric
And breathable moisture permeability；Third is that chinlon filament is stretched when starching, straightening of fibers, purple/white two color fibre is alternately present general
Rate can be reduced, so that the color for influencing fabric spins effect.Therefore pass through above-mentioned analysis, cladding wire should not be used as warp thread；
Warp thread uses combed cotton/viscose blended yarn, and yarn count 14.6tex, color is white to add, and blending ratio is cotton 60%, glues
Glue 40%；Purple/white dichromatism polyamide fibre cladding wire of N70D, is used as weft yarn；
(5) color of fabric: warp thread selects white yarn, and weft yarn selects purple/white dichromatism cladding wire, and the tissue of fabric is flat
Line, the fabric after weaving are presented lilac color, weave the dreamlike fabric for providing coloured spinning effect；
(6) it by the chinlon filament of the chinlon filament of purple and white, is consolidated, is formed in the way of air entangling
Air-coating silk, anchoring point are 110~130 and select/rice.
As optimization: trimmed size is as follows: warp thread is 14.6tex cotton/viscosity mixed yarn, and color is to add white, weft yarn N70D
Purple/white dichromatism air-coating silk；Fabric width 147cm, finished product is through close 429/10cm, 276/10cm of finished product filling density, often
Gram Mass is 108.3g/m2。
As optimization: fabric breadth 146cm, fabric is through close 429/10cm, fabric filling density 244/10cm, and every square metre
Grammes per square metre 103.3g/m2；Arranging width shrinkage is 0, and arranging long shrinkage is 11.4%；Through crimp 10%, latitude crimp 6.4%, porter 201
Tooth/10cm, upper machine reed width 156cm；Warp thread radical is 6264, wherein 96, side yarn, each 48 of every side, and fabric tissue is page four
Comprehensive plain weave.
A kind of colour combination according to spins the production technology of effect fabric, includes the following steps:
(1) winder: NO.21 bobbin-winding machine rewinding is used, warp thread is cotton blended spinning yarn, with medium winder speed, winder speed
It is set as 1100m/min, influence of winding tension is 3 grades；
(2) warping: using CGGA114B type beam warper, and total quantity of warps is 6264, and warp thread is cotton blended spinning yarn, whole
It is 650m/min through speed, is made into 9 warp beams, warping matches axis are as follows: 696*9, collective's creeling, sets without additional tension when warping
It sets；
(3) sizing: S432 ancestral gram sizing machine starching is selected；Formula of size: converted starch 70%, acrylic size
30%；Sizing speed is 50m/min: relatively low sizing speed being selected to prevent leasing from breaking end to reduce leasing resistance；The rate of sizing
It is 13%, sized warp moisture regain controls between 9%-9.5%；
(4) it gaits:
Sequence of gaiting is 2,3,4,1, and every reed 2 enters；
(5) preparation of weft yarn:
Weft yarn is the polyamide fibre air-coating silk of purple/white dichromatism；
(6) it weaves:
The air-jet loom of cam shedding is selected to weave, type is GA708 type, and loom revolving speed is 620r/min, weaving process
It is as follows:
Early opening, opening time are 295 °, and early opening process is conducive to weft yarn is urgent；
The high back rest, back beam height are+1 scale, and rear deck-molding, top line tension is small, and lower layer warp yarns tension is big, latitude when beating
Yarn bounce is small, is conducive to urgent weft yarn；
Hightension: fabric is through close bigger, and the interleaving degress of warp and weft is relatively more, and for the benefit of shed open is clear, need using
Biggish warp tension, warp tension is set as 160kg when this fabric produces；
Weft accumulator captures weft accumulator in turn for latitude using two, can to avoid a weft accumulator for latitude when, due on yarn storage drum
Yarn be finished, have little time to supplement, broadwise caused to be stopped, can also prevent a weft accumulator frequent starting, cause weft accumulator motor
Fever, causes to damage.
The utility model has the advantages that the present invention selects the chinlon filament of purple/white dichromatism, it is processed into cladding wire, copies the color that color spins effect
Knitted fabric can reduce production cost；Lilac color is presented in the material below that interweaves, and assigns fabric a kind of romantic tone；Chinlon filament choosing
With uvioresistant polyamide fibre, 97% or more ultraviolet light can be shielded；Cladding wire is used as weft yarn, can reduce production difficulty；Cladding wire
It does not twist, because the color that the cladding wire of twisting will affect fabric spins effect.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field
Personnel can better understand advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, those of ordinary skill in the art's every other implementation obtained without making creative work
Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
1. product design:
The design of 1.1 cladding wires: colour combination is spun in the fabric of effect, needs to use a kind of special wrap yarn.
Processing technology that there are two types of common wrap yarns is produced one is by wrap yarn and spandex core filaments by mechanical twisting
Twist wrap yarn；Second is to be bound up by air entangling, air-coating is made spandex filament and common long filament
Yarn.Therefore traditional wrap yarn, is generally made of the fiber of two kinds of compositions, and be all stretch yarn.
Using the formation mechenism of air-coating silk, a kind of novel air yarn cladding is produced, spins effect for weaving colour combination
Fabric.This wrap yarn is the chinlon filament of the chinlon filament and white by purple, passes through air entangling, the air packet of formation
Silk is covered, this cladding wire only has one kind without elasticity, the composition of fiber, and there are two types of colors.
By same filament fiber, different colours are coated, and form one kind like flame, and like fiber dyed yarn, again
Like the novel composite yarn of single yarn dyeing line, for substituting colour-spun yarns, production colour combination spins the fabric of effect.
The wrap yarn that effect is spun for colour combination, not twist.Two different colors of long filament, if formed by twisting
Yarn, it is to have certain rule on cloth cover that color, which appears in, and the long filament of twisting is similar with the strand that two single thread are formed, and does not have
There is special feature.Wrap yarn without twisting in two different colors of long filament, all respectively there is tens single fibers, fluffy and soft
Soft, these single fibers, alternating appears randomly in any position of yarn, some fibers can be overturn, and appears in yarn a little while
Surface layer, appear in the inner layer of yarn a little while, appear in the fiber on yarn surface layer, it is also possible to appear in the front of fabric,
It possibly is present at the reverse side of fabric；And other fiber, it does not overturn, is consistently present in surface layer or the inner layer of yarn, this is just
Lead to this special wrap yarn, has uncertainty, the surface color and polish of fabric, if producing in the color that web surface occurs
If the effect of the dim effect of nothing, this effect and colour-spun yarns is somewhat similar, therefore can be used to copy the effect of colour-spun yarns.
The uv resistance energy of 1.2 fabrics: color textile fabric be mainly used for Mrs summer shirt or skirt fabric, summer it is ultraviolet
Line irradiation is strong, is easy skin ambustion, and the chinlon filament in cladding wire will select the chinlon filament with uvioresistant function.It should
The dosage of uvioresistant chinlon filament is 24.8% in money fabric, and the shielding rate of ultraviolet light has extraordinary anti-97% or so
Ultraviolet function.
The comfort of 1.3 fabrics
Although it is soft and fluffy that this special air sky covers silk, the fabric hand feel woven is good, and breathable moisture permeability is wanted
Better than the yarn after the twisting of similar fiber type, but still it should not all use this cladding wire as unique raw material.
If warp and weft all selects this air-coating silk, it is good that color spins effect, but in fabric is entirely synthetic fibers, thoroughly
Gas, water vapour permeability are poor, there is feeling of oppression and heat when wearing, and be not able to satisfy underwear fabric takes requirement.
If all selecting viscose filament yarn, the chinlon filament in air-coating silk is substituted, fabric comfort property is good, and color spins effect
Also relatively good, but the conformal performance of fabric is poor, wears no resistance, and is not able to satisfy the requirement of high-grade fabric equally.
Cotton fiber, viscose rayon, the requirement of Lai Tigao fabric comfort have been used in fabric；Using nylon fibre, to mention
The conformality of high fabric, wearability.Cotton fiber in fabric accounts for 45.1%, and viscose rayon accounts for 30.1%, and nylon fibre accounts for
24.8%, the official regain of fabric has reached 8.7%, there is extraordinary comfort property.
1.4 reasonably using yarn, weavability is improved.
Since chinlon filament is not by twisting, wear-resisting property is poor, cannot be directly used as warp thread.
The weavability energy of cladding wire can be improved after starching in air-coating silk, but is used as using air-coating silk
Warp thread, there are three side effects: first is that needing to influence the feature of environmental protection of fabric when chinlon filament starching using PVA slurry, second is that bright and beautiful
When synthetic fibre long filament starching, the air of cladding wire is compressed, and the fluffy performance of fabric will receive influence, to will affect the feel of fabric
And breathable moisture permeability；Third is that chinlon filament is stretched when starching, straightening of fibers, purple/white two color fibre is alternately present general
Rate can be reduced, so that the color for influencing fabric spins effect.Therefore pass through above-mentioned analysis, cladding wire should not be used as warp thread.
Warp thread uses combed cotton/viscose blended yarn, and yarn count 14.6tex, color is white to add, and blending ratio is cotton 60%, glues
Glue 40%.Purple/white dichromatism polyamide fibre cladding wire of N70D, is used as weft yarn.This configuration mode can reduce the production difficulty of fabric, benefit
In going on smoothly for guarantee production.
The color of 1.5 fabrics
Warp thread selects white yarn, and weft yarn selects purple/white dichromatism cladding wire, and the tissue of fabric is plain weave, the face after weaving
Lilac color, inherently a kind of dreamlike tone for allowing people to associate of lilac color is presented in material.This color matching effect, adds one to fabric
The effect of the dreamlike fabric of kind, it is deep to be liked by ladies.
The fabric that colour combination spins effect is designed, color should not be too complicated, if color type is more, causes the dim effect of vision
It will be unobvious.During this fabric design, only with purple/white two kinds of colors, so that it may weave the dream for providing coloured spinning effect
Unreal fabric.
1.6, by the chinlon filament of purple and the chinlon filament of white, are consolidated in the way of air entangling, are formed
Air-coating silk, anchoring point are 110~130 and select/rice.The quantity of the anchoring point of air-coating silk also will affect the property of fabric
Energy.Anchoring point in unit length is more, and the cotton type feeling of fabric is good, and feel can be hardened；Otherwise anchoring point is few, the fluffy softness of fabric
Property it is good, but cotton type feeling be deteriorated.
2. the specification of fabric:
2.1 trimmed size
Warp thread is 14.6tex cotton/viscosity mixed yarn, and color is white to add, and weft yarn is purple/white air-coating silk of N70D.At
Product breadth 147cm, finished product are 108.3g/m through close 429/10cm, 276/10cm of finished product filling density, every Gram Mass2。
2.2 knitting technologies:
Fabric breadth 146cm, fabric is through close 429/10cm, 244/10cm of fabric filling density, every Gram Mass
103.3g/m2.Arranging width shrinkage is 0, arranges long shrinkage 11.4%.Through crimp 10%, latitude crimp 6.4%, 201 tooth of porter/
10cm, upper machine reed width 156cm.Warp thread radical is 6264, wherein 96, side yarn, each 48 of every side, and fabric tissue is page four comprehensive
Plain weave.
2. production essentials:
2.1 winders: NO.21 bobbin-winding machine rewinding is used.Warp thread is cotton blended spinning yarn, and yarn is thinner, viscose glue wear-resisting property
Difference, with medium winder speed, winder speed is set as 1100m/min.Influence of winding tension is 3 grades.
2.2 warpings: using CGGA114B type beam warper, and total quantity of warps is 6264, and warp thread is cotton blended spinning yarn, glues
The wearability of glue is poor, and speed of beaming should not be too fast, speed of beaming 650m/min, is made into 9 warp beams, and warping matches axis are as follows:
696*9, collective's creeling when warping, is arranged without additional tension.
2.3 sizing: selecting S432 ancestral gram sizing machine starching,
Formula of size: converted starch 70%, acrylic size 30%.Hydroxyl is mainly contained in warp thread, according to phase patibhaga-nimitta
Molten principle, selection starch are main slurry, and the dosage of converted starch is 70%.Since the serous coat of converted starch is more brittle,
Extension at break is small, and warp thread is easy brittle failure head, and 30% acrylic size is added in formula of size, and acrylic size is soft
Property it is good, be easy leasing, be added acrylic size after, can be reduced leasing broken end, keep serous coat it is complete, reduce the brittle failure of sizing
Head.
Sizing speed is 50m/min: relatively low sizing speed being selected to prevent leasing from breaking end to reduce leasing resistance.
The rate of sizing 13%: will take into account when starching and be impregnated with and be coated, and need the higher rate of sizing.
Regain.The regain of cotton fiber is 8.5%, and the regain of viscose glue is 13%, and blending ratio is cotton 60%, viscose glue
40%, the official regain of the yarn is 10.3%, and sized warp moisture regain is 1%-1.5% lower than official regain, therefore sizing returns
Damp rate control is between 9%-9.5%.
2.4 gait:
Sequence of gaiting is 2,3,4,1, and every reed 2 enters.
The preparation of 2.5 weft yarns:
Weft yarn is the polyamide fibre air-coating silk of purple/white dichromatism, designed by our factory by technique requirements, is pressed and is specified by chemical fibre factory
It is required that production, directly uses after going back to factory.
2.6 weavings:
Fabric structure is fairly simple, and the air-jet loom of cam shedding is selected to weave, and type is GA708 type, and loom turns
Speed is 620r/min, and weaving process is as follows:
Early opening, opening time 2950, early opening process, conducive to weft yarn is urgent.
The high back rest, back beam height are+1 scale, and rear deck-molding, top line tension is small, and lower layer warp yarns tension is big, latitude when beating
Yarn bounce is small, is conducive to urgent weft yarn.
Hightension: fabric is through close bigger, and the interleaving degress of warp and weft is relatively more, and for the benefit of shed open is clear, need using
Biggish warp tension, warp tension is set as 160kg when this fabric produces.
Weft accumulator captures weft accumulator in turn for latitude using two, can to avoid a weft accumulator for latitude when, on yarn storage drum
Yarn is finished, and has little time to supplement, broadwise is caused to be stopped, and can also prevent a weft accumulator frequent starting, and weft accumulator motor is caused to be sent out
Heat causes to damage.
The present invention is developed a using common dyed yarn as warp thread using well-designed air-coating silk as weft yarn
Colour combination spins the fabric of effect, this fabric comfort is good, well-pressed and fashion, the deep favor by ladies.In development process, mainly
There is following key point: (1) using common dyeing yarn or dyeing long filament, copying color textile fabric, key is to need to design
A kind of special cladding wire that can substitute fiber dyed yarn；(2) collocation of colour of fabric has larger impact to the effect that color is spun,
After purple/white dichromatism yarns interwoven, lilac color is presented in fabric, and lilac color belongs to a kind of color of romance, it is fantasy to impart fabric
Color spin effect；(3) this fabric is used as summer blouse or skirt fabric, and summer ultraviolet light is strong, selects uvioresistant
Line polyamide fibre can efficiently avoid ultraviolet light and burn to skin, improve the interior quality of fabric；(4) twisting is not used
Cladding wire, the cladding wire after twisting, the regularity that color is alternately present is big, will affect the effect of color spinning；(5) this fabric conduct
Close-fitting fabric needs preferable comfort, needs to be added the good cellulose fibre of skin affinity in fabric, and Lai Tisheng fabric relaxes
Adaptive energy；(6) for improve fabric weavability, cladding wire be used as weft yarn, production difficulty can be reduced, improve product yield and
Quality.
Claims (4)
1. the design method that a kind of colour combination spins effect fabric, it is characterised in that: product design is as follows:
(1) design of cladding wire: colour combination is spun in the fabric of effect, needs a kind of special wrap yarn；Utilize air-coating silk
Formation mechenism produces a kind of novel air yarn cladding, the fabric of effect is spun for weaving colour combination；This wrap yarn is by purple
Chinlon filament and white chinlon filament, pass through air entangling, the air-coating silk of formation, it is this cladding silk fiber composition
Only a kind of, there are two types of colors；By same filament fiber, different colours are coated, and form one kind like flame, and seemingly
Fiber dyed yarn, and like the novel composite yarn of single yarn dyeing line, for substituting colour-spun yarns, production colour combination spins the fabric of effect；
The wrap yarn that effect is spun for colour combination, not twist；Wrap yarn without twisting, in two different colors of long filament, all
Respectively there are tens single fibers, fluffy and soft, these single fibers, alternating appears randomly in any position of yarn, some are fine
Dimension can be overturn, and appeared in the surface layer of yarn a little while, appeared in the inner layer of yarn a little while, appear in the fiber on yarn surface layer,
It can also occur in the front of fabric, it is also possible to appear in the reverse side of fabric；And other fiber, it does not overturn, goes out always
The surface layer of present yarn or inner layer, this results in this special wrap yarn, has uncertainty in the color that web surface is presented,
The surface color and polish of fabric, produces not much, if any dim effect, and the effect of this effect and colour-spun yarns is somewhat similar, therefore can
To be used to copy the effect of colour-spun yarns；
(2) the uv resistance energy of fabric: the dosage of uvioresistant chinlon filament is 24.8% in this fabric, the shielding of ultraviolet light
Rate is 97%；
(3) comfort of fabric: using cotton fiber, viscose rayon in fabric, improves the requirement of fabric comfort；Use polyamide fibre fibre
Dimension, improves conformality, the wearability of fabric；Cotton fiber in fabric accounts for 45.1%, and viscose rayon accounts for 30.1%, and nylon fibre accounts for
24.8%, the official regain of fabric has reached 8.7%；
(4) yarn is reasonably used, weavability is improved:
Since chinlon filament is not by twisting, wear-resisting property is poor, cannot be directly used as warp thread；
The weavability energy of cladding wire can be improved after starching in air-coating silk, but air-coating silk is used to be used as warp thread,
There are three side effects: first is that needing to influence the feature of environmental protection of fabric when chinlon filament starching using PVA slurry, second is that polyamide fibre is long
When silk starching, the air of cladding wire is compressed, and the fluffy performance of fabric will receive influences, to will affect the feel of fabric and saturating
Gas water vapour permeability；Third is that chinlon filament is stretched when starching, and straightening of fibers, the probability meeting that purple/white two color fibre is alternately present
It reduces, so that the color for influencing fabric spins effect.Therefore pass through above-mentioned analysis, cladding wire should not be used as warp thread；
Warp thread uses combed cotton/viscose blended yarn, and yarn count 14.6tex, color is white to add, and blending ratio is cotton 60%, viscose glue
40%；Purple/white dichromatism polyamide fibre cladding wire of N70D, is used as weft yarn；
(5) color of fabric: warp thread selects white yarn, and weft yarn selects purple/white dichromatism cladding wire, and the tissue of fabric is plain weave,
Lilac color is presented in fabric after weaving, weaves the dreamlike fabric for providing coloured spinning effect；
(6) it by the chinlon filament of the chinlon filament of purple and white, is consolidated in the way of air entangling, forms air
Cladding wire, anchoring point are 110~130 and select/rice.
2. the design method that colour combination according to claim 1 spins effect fabric, it is characterised in that: trimmed size is as follows: warp
Yarn is 14.6tex cotton/viscosity mixed yarn, and color is white to add, and weft yarn is purple/white dichromatism air-coating silk of N70D；Fabric width
147cm, finished product are 108.3g/m through close 429/10cm, 276/10cm of finished product filling density, every Gram Mass2。
3. the design method that colour combination according to claim 1 spins effect fabric, it is characterised in that: fabric breadth 146cm, base
Cloth is through close 429/10cm, fabric filling density 244/10cm, every Gram Mass 103.3g/m2；Arranging width shrinkage is 0, is arranged
Long shrinkage is 11.4%；Through crimp 10%, latitude crimp 6.4%, 201 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 156cm；Warp thread radical is
6264, wherein 96, side yarn, each 48 of every side, fabric tissue are the comprehensive plain weaves of page four.
4. the production technology that a kind of colour combination according to claim 1 spins effect fabric, it is characterised in that: including walking as follows
It is rapid:
(1) winder: using NO.21 bobbin-winding machine rewinding, and warp thread is cotton blended spinning yarn, with medium winder speed, the setting of winder speed
For 1100m/min, influence of winding tension is 3 grades；
(2) warping: using CGGA114B type beam warper, and total quantity of warps is 6264, and speed of beaming 650m/min is made into
9 warp beams, warping match axis are as follows: 696*9, collective's creeling when warping are arranged without additional tension；
(3) sizing: S432 ancestral gram sizing machine starching is selected；Formula of size: converted starch 70%, acrylic size 30%；Slurry
Yarn speed is 50m/min: relatively low sizing speed being selected to prevent leasing from breaking end to reduce leasing resistance；The rate of sizing is 13%,
Sized warp moisture regain controls between 9%-9.5%；
(4) it gaits:
Sequence of gaiting is 2,3,4,1, and every reed 2 enters；
(5) preparation of weft yarn:
Weft yarn is the polyamide fibre air-coating silk of purple/white dichromatism；
(6) it weaves:
The air-jet loom of cam shedding is selected to weave, type is GA708 type, and loom revolving speed is 620r/min, and weaving process is as follows:
Early opening, opening time are 295 °, and early opening process is conducive to weft yarn is urgent；
The high back rest, back beam height are+1 scale, and rear deck-molding, top line tension is small, and lower layer warp yarns tension is big, and weft yarn is anti-when beating
Elastic force is small, is conducive to urgent weft yarn；
Hightension: fabric is through close bigger, and the interleaving degress of warp and weft is relatively more, and for the benefit of shed open is clear, needs using larger
Warp tension, this fabric produce when warp tension be set as 160kg；
Weft accumulator captures weft accumulator in turn for latitude using two, can to avoid a weft accumulator for latitude when, due to the yarn on yarn storage drum
Line is finished, and has little time to supplement, broadwise is caused to be stopped, and can also prevent a weft accumulator frequent starting, and causing weft accumulator, the motor feels hot,
Cause to damage.
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