CN109487430B - Comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents

Comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric and production method thereof Download PDF

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CN109487430B
CN109487430B CN201811621393.2A CN201811621393A CN109487430B CN 109487430 B CN109487430 B CN 109487430B CN 201811621393 A CN201811621393 A CN 201811621393A CN 109487430 B CN109487430 B CN 109487430B
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comb
fabric
terylene
semi
cotton
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CN109487430A (en
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洪亮
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Jiangyin Fubo Textile Co ltd
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Jiangyin Fubo Textile Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

The invention discloses a comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric and a production method thereof, wherein the fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester; or the fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene A, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn B, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene C and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene D. According to the invention, the cotton yarns and the polyester yarns are used as the development raw materials of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric for the first time, and through organic integration of new raw material proportion, new pattern design and new structure selection, the differentiated comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric with high cost performance is formed, main stream products of the woven and weft-knitted shirt fabric are supplemented, the defects of the weft-knitted or woven fabric are made up and balanced, and a brand-new comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric system is established.

Description

Comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric and production method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of textiles, and particularly relates to a comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric and a production method thereof.
Background
In terms of raw materials, the shirt fabric on the market at present mainly comprises: (1) pure cotton fabric, the shirt of pure cotton fabric is comfortable and easy to wear, soft, sweat-absorbing, extremely easy to wrinkle, easy to deform, easy to dye or change color. At present, in the direct marketing of shirts in China, the appearance of the medium-high grade shirt is closer to that of oxford fabric of fine denim, the manufacturing cost is low, the texture of the fabric is coarse, and the medium-high grade shirt belongs to low-grade shirt fabric and is not consistent with the living style and the mainstream commercial concept of the upper-level shirt. Meanwhile, according to the European and American convention, the high-grade pure cotton fabric is not finished by using an ironing-free technology. Ironing-free finishing belongs to chemical treatment, and usually changes the excellent skin-friendly characteristic of pure cotton fabric, and leaves harmful chemical substances. The fabric has no ironing effect, loses the elasticity and skin-friendly feeling of pure cotton, and has a touch feeling close to that of chemical fiber fabric. (2) 100% chemical fiber fabric, which is a textile of fiber made by using macromolecular compound as raw material. They have the common advantages of bright color, soft texture, stiff and smooth suspension, and comfort. They have disadvantages of poor abrasion resistance, heat resistance, moisture absorption, and air permeability, are easily deformed by heat, and easily generate static electricity. Although it can be used for making various kinds of clothes, its overall grade is not high, and it is difficult to climb great elegance hall. In the case of shirts, one hundred percent chemical fiber fabric means inexpensive and low-grade. However, some kinds of chemical fiber fabrics have some unique characteristics, such as high elasticity, high air permeability and water resistance, high glossiness, high abrasion resistance and the like, so the purified fiber fabrics are also applied to shirts for special purposes, such as show clothes requiring glossiness, dance clothes requiring elasticity, outdoor clothes requiring water resistance and the like. (3) Flax fabric, noble in the shirt fabric, comfortable and easy to wear, soft, sweat-absorbing, extremely easy wrinkle, yielding, easily dyeing or discolour. Flax is the best raw material for shirt processing factories, and the natural air permeability, hygroscopicity and freshness of the flax make the flax into freely breathing textiles, the indoor temperature sensitivity of a human body can be reduced by 4-8 ℃ at normal temperature, and the flax is called as a natural air conditioner. Of course, hemp also has the defect of easy wrinkle, and wrinkles are accumulated after wearing for tens of minutes. (4) Wool, the fabric spun by pure wool has the advantages of heat preservation, thickness and good visual effect. But is easy to wrinkle, deform, damage by worms and shrink. It is recommended that you buy a wool shirt only when the warming factor is considered in winter, because his care is more troublesome than flax and pure cotton. Wool fabrics are much heavier, and wool fibers for spinning are mainly wool. (5) The real silk fabric is pure mulberry silkworm white weaving fabric, is globally recognized as the most luxurious fabric for shirt processing factories, naturally emits beautiful luster, and is always the top-grade luxurious shirt fabric with high gram weight. The traditional noble velvet fabric deduces elegant and noble gentleman temperament again. The real silk fabric is more complicated to manage and maintain, so that the real silk fabric more embodies the characteristic of 'noble'.
In terms of a weaving method, the shirt fabric on the market at present mainly adopts woven fabric, and warp and weft yarns of the woven shirt fabric are tightly interwoven, so that the fabric is good in stiffness, has a skeleton and is good in shape retention when being worn, but the fabric is poor in extensibility and comfortableness due to the fact that the woven fabric is large in interweaving points and the warp and weft yarns are large in interweaving density. The knitted fabric is formed by threading the loops, when the fabric is stretched, the loops deform to provide extensibility for the fabric, and the extensibility of the knitted fabric in the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction is better than that of the woven fabric. The warp-knitted fabric in the knitted fabric is more suitable for manufacturing shirt fabric due to the relative stability, anti-loosening property and the like of the loops of the warp-knitted fabric compared with the weft-knitted fabric.
The existing shirt fabric is mostly limited to woven fabric and pure cotton fabric. Woven fabrics, while being superior in stiffness, are deficient in softness, comfort and elastic extensibility. Although pure cotton fabric has better comfort, moisture absorption and air permeability, the pure cotton fabric is difficult to adapt to the requirements of dimensional stability and shape retention of shirts.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric which is low in cost, improves the softness of the existing woven shirt fabric in the market and the shape retention of a pure cotton shirt fabric, and improves the elasticity and the body bone of the pure cotton shirt fabric.
Compared with weaving modes such as weaving, weft knitting and the like, the production efficiency of the warp-knitted fabric is high, the highest machine speed reaches 4000rpm, the width of a door can reach 218 inches, and the efficiency can reach 98%. However, because the strength requirement of the warp knitting process on the yarn is high, chemical fibers are mostly adopted in the conventional weaving process, which greatly limits the diversification and high-grade of the warp knitting fabric. With the development of new warp knitting machines towards higher machine speeds and higher machine sizes, and with increasing emphasis on garment comfort and ease of care today, the development of comfortable non-ironing warp-knitted shirt products has been proposed. The emergence of the novel spinning technology and the improvement of the spinning quality provide possibility for applying the cotton yarn to warp knitting high-speed production. Particularly, compact siro spinning can reduce hairiness and improve strength on the basis of improving yarn count. On the basis of the technical development, the inventor finds that on one hand, the polyester filament yarns enable the fabric to have a body and increase the stiffness of the fabric, on the other hand, the pure cotton yarns provide the softness and comfort and good moisture absorption and air permeability of the fabric, but the combination of the pure cotton yarns and the pure cotton yarns can cause the technical problems of inconsistent elasticity, poor weaving effect and high interweaving breakage rate of the pure cotton yarns and the pure cotton yarns, and the inventor conducts technical compromise on the technical problems through multiple analysis and tests to successfully explore a technical route of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric with consistent elasticity and good weaving effect. The method is characterized in that the selection of the polyester raw material and the pure cotton yarn is the premise of improving the quality of the fabric, the selection of the cotton yarn and the polyester with good fiber strength and small titer variation coefficient is strived to realize good fiber elasticity and small titer variation coefficient by selecting the specific types of the cotton yarn and the polyester yarn so as to ensure the quality of the yarn, the strength and evenness of the finished yarn and ensure the quality, comfort and non-ironing performance of the cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester;
the higher the cotton yarn count is, the thinner the yarn is, the denser and thinner the woven fabric is, the higher count is already in the cotton yarn for 60s, and the fineness is selected for the light, thin, stiff and smooth of the shirt fabric; the polyester yarns endow the fabric with certain body bones, and the fineness of the semi-gloss polyester 50D is also considered to keep the fabric stiff and smooth and give consideration to the lightness and thinness of the shirt fabric. Besides theoretical analysis and judgment, the optimal scheme is finally obtained through multiple sampling practices in factories and sampling of different raw material configurations.
The single-comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode of the fabric are as follows:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2//7A,8 empty penetration;
GB2 comb 1-0/1-2//7 empty through, 8B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0// 15A;
GB4 comb 1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0// 15B;
namely GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester.
Or the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene;
the 40S cotton yarn and the 75D semi-bright cationic terylene are used for dyeing different colors with terylene on other two combs (namely 30D terylene and 75D delustered terylene) during subsequent dyeing treatment, thereby endowing the fabric with the characteristic of pattern.
The single-comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode of the fabric are as follows:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2// 2A;
GB2 comb 1-1/0-0// 2B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0//1 empty through, 1C;
GB4 comb 2-3/1-0//1D,1 empty through;
namely GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: 75D extinction terylene.
Preferably, in the first scheme, the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric is made of 58% of A:60S cotton yarn and 42% of B:50D semi-gloss polyester, and more preferably, the 50D semi-gloss polyester is 50D48F semi-gloss polyester DTY.
Preferably, in the second scheme, 18.8% of 30D terylene, 19% of 40S cotton yarn B, 31.1% of 75D semi-optical cationic terylene and 31.1% of 75D extinction terylene are selected as raw materials of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric. More preferably, the polyester yarn A is 30D12F polyester, the cotton yarn B is 40S, the semi-optical cation polyester yarn C is 75D72F, and the delustering polyester yarn D is 75D 72F.
Preferably, the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric is formed by different shirt patterns on the technical front face by using a warp-knitting flat or changed warp-knitting flat structure and a weft-inserting structure which are yarns threaded by four guide bars, namely a GB1 comb, a GB2 comb, a GB3 comb and a GB4 comb, and the technical front face is used as the garment front face of the fabric.
The invention also discloses a production method of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric, which comprises the following process steps:
1) selecting materials: selecting raw materials and mass percent: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester; or selecting the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene;
2) warping: warping cotton yarns and polyester yarns on a computer copy warping machine according to the requirements of width and transverse density according to a certain number of parts, wherein the draft rate is 75-85%;
3) weaving: weaving by using a tricot machine, and obtaining cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric blank cloth with comfortable non-ironing performance after weaving; the single-comb weave structure of the fabric comprises the following components: GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester, or GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: the 75D extinction terylene fabric utilizes yarns which are penetrated by four guide bars, namely a GB1 comb, a GB2 comb, a GB3 comb and a GB4 comb to form different shirt patterns on the technical front face by a warp-running flat or variable warp-flat tissue and a weft insertion tissue, and the technical front face is used as the garment front face of the fabric;
4) post-finishing, ① dyeing, ② shaping, namely shaping by a shaper, wherein the temperature of an oven is 150-200 ℃, the shaping effect is optimal within the temperature range according to the performance of raw materials and production practice, and the required width and gram weight of the cloth are controlled simultaneously, ③ cooling;
5) and (6) detecting and packaging.
Preferably, the single-comb weave structure and the threading mode for weaving the fabric are as follows:
selecting raw materials and mass percent: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2//7A,8 empty penetration;
GB2 comb 1-0/1-2//7 empty through, 8B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0// 15A;
GB4 comb 1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0// 15B;
namely GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester;
or selecting the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene A, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn B, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene C, and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene D:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2// 2A;
GB2 comb 1-1/0-0// 2B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0//1 empty through, 1C;
GB4 comb 2-3/1-0//1D,1 empty through;
namely GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: 75D extinction terylene.
Preferably, the cotton yarn with the ratio of A:60S accounts for 58%, the semi-bright polyester with the ratio of B:50D accounts for 42% in the material selection in the step (1), or the cotton yarn with the ratio of A:30D accounts for 18.8%, the cotton yarn with the ratio of B:40S accounts for 19%, the semi-bright cationic polyester with the ratio of C:75D accounts for 31.1%, and the extinction polyester with the ratio of D:75D accounts for 31.1%.
The finished product of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric has the square meter gram weight of 115-120 g/m2
Preferably, in the dyeing process in the post-finishing step, the single-dyed 60S cotton yarn/60S cotton yarn in 50D semi-gloss terylene is selected; or selecting the 75D semi-gloss cationic terylene in the single-dyed 40S cotton yarn/75D semi-gloss cationic terylene/30D terylene/75D extinction terylene, thereby endowing the fabric with the characteristic on the pattern.
In addition, the inventor provides technical support for realizing high-speed warp knitting production of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp knitting shirt fabric, the motion process of a warp knitting machine is continuously optimized, the weaving stability of the machine is improved by adjusting the machine speed, preferably, the machine speed is adjusted to be 800-1100 r/min, the machine is unstable due to overhigh machine speed, yarn breakage is increased, the production efficiency is influenced due to overlow machine speed, and the machine speed range is obtained in practice.
In the traditional process, due to high requirements of warp knitting on the quality and quality of production raw materials, the cotton yarn is limited in warp knitting production, in order to realize industrialization and scale production of warp knitting shirt fabric, preferably, in the production process of the warp knitting shirt fabric, the cotton yarn for warp knitting is required to adopt a fixed spinning technology, namely, the cotton yarn for warp knitting is suitable for the requirements of warp knitting machine number and product gram weight, the cotton yarn for warp knitting needs fixed spinning, the yarn count is 9.7 tex-14.5 tex, the breaking strength, breaking elongation, bending rigidity and hairiness quantity of the yarn are reasonably configured, meanwhile, the proportion of terylene is emphasized, the price is moderate, and the cotton yarn used in the invention has the requirements of 40s and 60 s.
Preferably, the spinning machine is correspondingly modified, the size of the twisting triangular space is changed, and the yarns are gathered, so that the cotton yarn hairiness is reduced, and the yarn quality is improved.
Preferably, the cotton yarn is pretreated, specifically, on the basis of conventional treatment, a prewetting sizing process is applied to the cotton yarn to make hairiness attached to the cotton yarn and improve the wear resistance and the smoothness of the cotton yarn. The prewetting sizing is a sizing method in which warp yarns are prewetted before being sized in a size box. The prewetting treatment is to add a prewetting water tank between a beam bracket and a size tank of the sizing machine, so that the dry state of warp yarns is changed into the wet state when the warp yarns pass through the prewetting water tank, the wetting capacity and the uniformity of size in the subsequent size tank on the warp yarns are improved, a size film is complete and uniform, and the attachment of filoplume is facilitated, so that the breaking strength, the wear resistance and the weavability of the size yarns are improved;
preferably, a uniform tension warping technology is applied to a warping machine, namely a liquid damping compensation tensioner is arranged on the warping machine, so that the requirement of warp knitting production on yarn strength is reduced.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention uses the cotton yarn and the polyester yarn as the development raw materials of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric for the first time, forms the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric with differentiation and high cost performance through the organic integration of the new raw material proportion, the new pattern design and the new structure selection, supplements the mainstream products of the woven and weft-knitted shirt fabric, makes up and balances the defects of the weft-knitted or woven fabric, establishes a brand-new comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric system, and particularly has the following advantages:
1) the fabric disclosed by the invention is good in comfort degree and shape retention and moderate in gram weight, the fabric has comfort and shape retention by utilizing the reasonable proportion of the polyester-cotton yarns, and the fabric can realize light weight by selecting the fineness of the yarns and combining the advantages of polyester-cotton blending and tissue selection;
2) the dimensional stability of the invention is between that of woven products and weft-knitted products: the extensibility of the warp-knitted fabric is superior to that of a woven product because the loop columns and the loop arcs of the warp-knitted fabric can be transferred when being stretched by a longitudinal external force; the wales of the warp knitting structure are connected through the extension lines, so that the warp knitting structure is different from the sinker loop connection of the weft knitting structure, and the warp knitting structure has no sinker loop length release of the weft knitting structure when being stretched by transverse external force, so that the dimensional stability of the warp knitting fabric is superior to that of a weft knitting product;
3) the invention has soft hand feeling, and obvious extensibility and shape-preserving effects: different shirt patterns are formed on the front face of the process by utilizing the yarn warp-running flat or variable warp-flat tissues and the weft insertion tissues which are penetrated by the four guide bars, and the fabric is soft and comfortable and has a skeleton;
4) the invention is comfortable to wear and beautiful: the polyester-cotton mixed warp-knitted fabric is good in extensibility, light and elastic, comfortable, free of binding feeling when being worn, good in shape retention and free of arching deformation;
5) the warp knitting shirt fabric is developed by adopting cotton yarns and different types of polyester yarns as raw materials, the high-grade warp knitting fashionable shirt fabric which has different gram weights and styles and is suitable for different market demands is developed on a tricot machine of the tricot by utilizing different tissue structures and threading changes, the application of comfortable non-ironing warp knitting shirt fabrics of different types and different patterns is realized, the innovative application of various yarn raw materials on warp knitting is realized, and the warp knitting shirt fabric has a great promotion effect on the development of the industry.
Drawings
For ease of illustration, the invention is described in detail by the following specific examples and figures.
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the structures of GB1 and GB2 in example 1 of the present invention, and is a schematic diagram of the structure of GB1 in example 2;
FIG. 2 is a schematic organization diagram of GB3 in example 1 of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic organization diagram of GB4 in example 1 of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic organization diagram of GB2 in example 2 of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic organization diagram of GB3 and GB4 in example 2 of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a comparison of the twisting triangular space of the spinning frame before and after being modified;
FIG. 7 is a schematic illustration of sinker loops of weft knitting;
fig. 8 is a schematic view of warp knitted extension lines.
Detailed Description
As shown in fig. 1, the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester;
the single-comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode of the fabric are as follows:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2//7A,8 empty penetration;
GB2 comb 1-0/1-2//7 empty through, 8B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0// 15A;
GB4 comb 1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0// 15B;
namely GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester.
Or the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene;
the single-comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode of the fabric are as follows:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2// 2A;
GB2 comb 1-1/0-0// 2B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0//1 empty through, 1C;
GB4 comb 2-3/1-0//1D,1 empty through;
namely GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: 75D extinction terylene.
The comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric is characterized in that yarns which are penetrated by four guide bars, namely a GB1 comb, a GB2 comb, a GB3 comb and a GB4 comb, are subjected to warp knitting flat or changed warp knitting flat tissues and weft insertion tissues to form different shirt patterns on the technical front face, and the technical front face is used as the garment front face of the fabric.
The production method of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following process steps:
1) selecting materials: selecting raw materials and mass percent: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester; or selecting the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene;
2) warping: warping cotton yarns and polyester yarns on a computer copy warping machine according to the requirements of width and transverse density according to a certain number of parts, wherein the draft rate is 75-85%;
3) weaving: weaving by using a tricot machine, and obtaining cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric blank cloth with comfortable non-ironing performance after weaving; the single-comb weave structure of the fabric comprises the following components: GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester, or GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: the 75D extinction terylene fabric utilizes yarns which are penetrated by four guide bars, namely a GB1 comb, a GB2 comb, a GB3 comb and a GB4 comb to form different shirt patterns on the technical front face by a warp-running flat or variable warp-flat tissue and a weft insertion tissue, and the technical front face is used as the garment front face of the fabric;
4) post-finishing, ① dyeing, ② shaping, namely shaping by a shaper, wherein the temperature of an oven is 150-200 ℃, the shaping effect is optimal within the temperature range according to the performance of raw materials and production practice, and the required width and gram weight of the cloth are controlled simultaneously, ③ cooling;
5) and (6) detecting and packaging.
The single comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode for weaving the fabric are as follows:
selecting raw materials and mass percent: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2//7A,8 empty penetration;
GB2 comb 1-0/1-2//7 empty through, 8B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0// 15A;
GB4 comb 1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0// 15B;
namely GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester;
or selecting the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene A, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn B, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene C, and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene D:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2// 2A;
GB2 comb 1-1/0-0// 2B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0//1 empty through, 1C;
GB4 comb 2-3/1-0//1D,1 empty through;
namely GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: 75D extinction terylene.
The finished product of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric has the square meter gram weight of 115-120 g/m2
In the dyeing process in the post-finishing step, the single-dyed 60S cotton yarn/60S cotton yarn in 50D semi-gloss polyester is selected; or selecting the 75D semi-gloss cationic terylene in the single-dyed 40S cotton yarn/75D semi-gloss cationic terylene/30D terylene/75D extinction terylene, thereby endowing the fabric with the characteristic on the pattern.
The motion process of the warp knitting machine is optimized, the weaving stability of the machine is improved by adjusting the machine speed to 800-1100 r/min, the machine is unstable due to overhigh machine speed, yarn breakage is increased, the production efficiency is influenced due to overlow machine speed, and the machine speed range is obtained in practice.
The cotton yarn for warp knitting needs fixed spinning, the yarn count is 9.7 tex-14.5 tex, the breaking strength, the breaking elongation, the bending rigidity and the hairiness amount of the yarn are reasonably configured, meanwhile, the proportion of terylene is emphasized, the price is moderate, and the cotton yarn used in the invention has the requirements of 40s and 60 s.
The spinning machine is correspondingly modified, the size of the twisting triangular space is changed, the yarns are gathered, the cotton yarn hairiness is reduced, and the yarn quality is improved, and the structure is shown in figure 6.
The method comprises the following steps of pretreating cotton yarns, specifically, on the basis of conventional treatment, adding a prewetting sizing process to the cotton yarns to make hairiness attached to the cotton yarns and improve the wear resistance and the smoothness of the cotton yarns. The prewetting sizing is a sizing method in which warp yarns are prewetted before being sized in a size box. The prewetting treatment is to add a prewetting water tank between a beam bracket and a size tank of the sizing machine, so that the dry state of warp yarns is changed into the wet state when the warp yarns pass through the prewetting water tank, the wetting capacity and the uniformity of size in the subsequent size tank on the warp yarns are improved, a size film is complete and uniform, and the attachment of filoplume is facilitated, so that the breaking strength, the wear resistance and the weavability of the size yarns are improved;
the warping machine is provided with a liquid damping compensation tensioner, so that the requirement of warp knitting production on yarn strength is reduced.
On the basis of the above method, the following embodiments 1 and 2 are made for two different material selection modes, and fig. 1 is a schematic organization diagram of GB1 and GB2 in embodiment 1 of the present invention, and is also a schematic organization diagram of GB1 in embodiment 2; FIG. 2 is a schematic organization diagram of GB3 in example 1 of the present invention; FIG. 3 is a schematic organization diagram of GB4 in example 1 of the present invention; FIG. 4 is a schematic organization diagram of GB2 in example 2 of the present invention; FIG. 5 is a schematic organization diagram of GB3 and GB4 in example 2 of the present invention.
Example 1
The comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 58% of 60S cotton yarn and 42% of 50D semi-gloss polyester; the 50D semi-gloss polyester is 50D48F semi-gloss polyester DTY.
The single-comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode of the fabric are as follows:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2//7A,8 empty penetration;
GB2 comb 1-0/1-2//7 empty through, 8B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0// 15A;
GB4 comb 1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0// 15B;
namely GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester.
The comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric is characterized in that yarns which are penetrated by four guide bars, namely a GB1 comb, a GB2 comb, a GB3 comb and a GB4 comb, are subjected to warp knitting flat or changed warp knitting flat tissues and weft insertion tissues to form different shirt patterns on the technical front face, and the technical front face is used as the garment front face of the fabric.
Example 2
The comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 18.8 percent of 30D terylene, 19 percent of 40S cotton yarn, 31.1 percent of 75D semi-optical cation terylene and 31.1 percent of 75D extinction terylene. Specifically, A is 30D12F polyester, B is 40S cotton yarn, C is 75D72F semi-optical cation polyester, and D is 75D72F extinction polyester.
The single-comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode of the fabric are as follows:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2// 2A;
GB2 comb 1-1/0-0// 2B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0//1 empty through, 1C;
GB4 comb 2-3/1-0//1D,1 empty through;
namely GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: 75D extinction terylene.
The comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric is characterized in that yarns which are penetrated by four guide bars, namely a GB1 comb, a GB2 comb, a GB3 comb and a GB4 comb, are subjected to warp knitting flat or changed warp knitting flat tissues and weft insertion tissues to form different shirt patterns on the technical front face, and the technical front face is used as the garment front face of the fabric.
The invention uses the cotton yarn and the polyester yarn as the development raw materials of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric for the first time, forms the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric with differentiation and high cost performance through the organic integration of the new raw material proportion, the new pattern design and the new structure selection, supplements the mainstream products of the woven and weft-knitted shirt fabric, makes up and balances the defects of the weft-knitted or woven fabric, establishes a brand-new comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric system, and particularly has the following advantages:
1) the fabric disclosed by the invention is good in comfort degree and shape retention and moderate in gram weight, the fabric has comfort and shape retention by utilizing the reasonable proportion of the polyester-cotton yarns, and the fabric can realize light weight by selecting the fineness of the yarns and combining the advantages of polyester-cotton blending and tissue selection;
2) the dimensional stability of the invention is between that of woven products and weft-knitted products: the extensibility of the warp-knitted fabric is superior to that of a woven product because the loop columns and the loop arcs of the warp-knitted fabric can be transferred when being stretched by a longitudinal external force; the wales of the warp knitting structure are connected through the extension lines, so that the warp knitting structure is different from the sinker loop connection of the weft knitting structure, and the warp knitting structure has no sinker loop length release of the weft knitting structure when being stretched by transverse external force, so that the dimensional stability of the warp knitting fabric is superior to that of a weft knitting product; FIG. 7 is a schematic illustration of a sinker loop of a weft knitted structure; FIG. 8 is a schematic view of a stretch line of a warp knit structure;
3) the invention has soft hand feeling, and obvious extensibility and shape-preserving effects: different shirt patterns are formed on the front face of the process by utilizing the yarn warp-running flat or variable warp-flat tissues and the weft insertion tissues which are penetrated by the four guide bars, and the fabric is soft and comfortable and has a skeleton;
4) the invention is comfortable to wear and beautiful: the polyester-cotton mixed warp-knitted fabric is good in extensibility, light and elastic, comfortable, free of binding feeling when being worn, good in shape retention and free of arching deformation;
5) the warp knitting shirt fabric is developed by adopting cotton yarns and different types of polyester yarns as raw materials, the high-grade warp knitting fashionable shirt fabric which has different gram weights and styles and is suitable for different market demands is developed on a tricot machine of the tricot by utilizing different tissue structures and threading changes, the application of comfortable non-ironing warp knitting shirt fabrics of different types and different patterns is realized, the innovative application of various yarn raw materials on warp knitting is realized, and the warp knitting shirt fabric has a great promotion effect on the development of the industry.
The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any changes or substitutions that are not thought of through the inventive work should be included in the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope defined by the claims.

Claims (5)

1. The comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by mass: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester; the single-comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode of the fabric are as follows:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2//7A,8 empty penetration;
GB2 comb 1-0/1-2//7 empty through, 8B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0// 15A;
GB4 comb 1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0// 15B;
namely GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester;
or the fabric comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene;
the single-comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode of the fabric are as follows:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2// 2A;
GB2 comb 1-1/0-0// 2B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0//1 empty through, 1C;
GB4 comb 2-3/1-0//1D,1 empty through;
namely GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: 75D extinction terylene;
the fabric utilizes four yarns of GB1 comb, GB2 comb, GB3 comb and GB4 comb to pass through the warp flat or variable warp flat weave and the weft insertion weave to form different shirt patterns on the technical front face, and the technical front face is used as the garment front face of the fabric.
2. The comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, wherein when the fabric comprises A:60S cotton yarn and B:50D semi-gloss polyester, the following mass percentages are taken: 58% of A:60S cotton yarn and 42% of B:50D semi-gloss polyester.
3. The comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that when the fabric comprises A:30D terylene, B:40S cotton yarn, C:75D semi-optical cation terylene and D:75D extinction terylene, the following mass percentages are adopted: 18.8% of 30D terylene, 19% of 40S cotton yarn, 31.1% of 75D semi-optical cationic terylene and 31.1% of 75D extinction terylene.
4. A production method of comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following process steps:
1) selecting materials: selecting raw materials and mass percent: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester; or selecting the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene;
2) warping: warping cotton yarns and polyester yarns on a computer copy warping machine according to the requirements of width and transverse density according to a certain number of parts, wherein the draft rate is 75-85%;
3) weaving: weaving by using a tricot machine, and obtaining cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric blank cloth with comfortable non-ironing performance after weaving; the single-comb weave structure of the fabric comprises the following components: GB1 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB2 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester; GB3 comb: 60S cotton yarn; GB4 comb: 50D semi-gloss polyester, or GB1 comb: 30D terylene; GB2 comb: 40S cotton yarn; GB3 comb: 75D semi-optical cationic terylene; GB4 comb: the 75D extinction terylene fabric utilizes yarns which are penetrated by four guide bars, namely a GB1 comb, a GB2 comb, a GB3 comb and a GB4 comb to form different shirt patterns on the technical front face by a warp-running flat or variable warp-flat tissue and a weft insertion tissue, and the technical front face is used as the garment front face of the fabric;
the single comb weave structure and the yarn threading mode for weaving the fabric are as follows:
selecting raw materials and mass percent: a: 55-60% of 60S cotton yarn, B: 40-45% of 50D semi-gloss polyester:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2//7A,8 empty penetration;
GB2 comb 1-0/1-2//7 empty through, 8B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0// 15A;
GB4 comb 1-1/0-0/1-1/0-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0/2-3/1-0// 15B;
or selecting the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 16-20% of 30D terylene A, 16-20% of 40S cotton yarn B, 29-33% of 75D semi-optical cation terylene C, and 29-33% of 75D extinction terylene D:
GB1 comb 1-0/1-2// 2A;
GB2 comb 1-1/0-0// 2B;
GB3 comb 2-3/1-0//1 empty through, 1C;
GB4 comb 2-3/1-0//1D,1 empty through;
4) post-finishing, namely ① dyeing, ② shaping, namely shaping by using a shaper, wherein the temperature of an oven is 150-200 ℃, the required width and the gram weight of the cloth are controlled simultaneously, and ③ cooling;
5) and (6) detecting and packaging.
5. The production method of the comfortable non-ironing cotton warp-knitted shirt fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that the cotton yarn selected in the step (1) is 58% of A:60S cotton yarn, 42% of B:50D semi-bright terylene, or 18.8% of A:30D terylene, 19% of B:40S cotton yarn, 31.1% of C:75D semi-bright cationic terylene and 31.1% of D:75D extinction terylene.
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