CN106367865A - Production process of polyester fiber/viscose double-layer yarn laying fabric cloth - Google Patents

Production process of polyester fiber/viscose double-layer yarn laying fabric cloth Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106367865A
CN106367865A CN201611093344.7A CN201611093344A CN106367865A CN 106367865 A CN106367865 A CN 106367865A CN 201611093344 A CN201611093344 A CN 201611093344A CN 106367865 A CN106367865 A CN 106367865A
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Prior art keywords
warp
fabric
yarn
page
weft
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Granted
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CN201611093344.7A
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CN106367865B (en
Inventor
宋波
隋全侠
瞿建新
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Changshu Zibo coloring polyester Co., Ltd
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24Viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

The invention discloses a production process of polyester fiber/viscose double-layer yarn laying fabric cloth. The production process comprises the following steps of product tissue design, slack winding, cone dyeing, rewinding, two-for-one twisting, warping, shaft merging, warp passing and weaving. Warp yarns in the production process have three systems; surface tissues are plain veins; inner tissues are four irregular satin veins; pad yarns do not participate in the interweaving, and are padded between the two layers of cloth; a lower-connecting-upper mode is utilized; connecting points form faint prismatic patterns on the surface of the cloth; the attractiveness is added to the cloth. The warp yarns of the three systems have different interweaving times; the warp weaving shrinkage is different; the production difficulty is high; the cloth is processed through a series of measures of three-shaft production, reverse side weaving, early opening, late sword belt entering, short shed, great tension and the like; the problem of difficulty in the production process is solved.

Description

A kind of production technology of polyster fibre/viscose rayon bilayer band yarn fabric
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric production field and in particular to a kind of polyster fibre/viscose rayon bilayer band yarn fabric Production technology.
Background technology
In recent years, application in clothing for the double-layer fabric gets more and more, the shirt as spring and autumn and western-style clothes, civilian dress face Material, two-layer fabric has advantages thick and heavy, soft, well-pressed and that two-layer fabrics pattern is different.Design of plus material teacher when being designed, Should from the comfortableness of fabric, easily arrange timely Shangfang face set about so that designed product can be people healthy living While making something perfect even more perfect, fine artistic treat can be assumed again.Double-deck band yarn fabric in the present invention, is two-layer fabric spin-off Kind, it is the fabric more abundant by a class of double-layered structure's weaving, because the presence of band yarn is so as to wearability, warming Property and the performance such as stability of structure be superior to single-layer fabric, fabric texture is rich in solid sense, and design profile is graceful, concavo-convex There is cause, clothes impart texture and the performance that common fabric cannot have.
Content of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the invention provides a kind of polyster fibre/viscose rayon is double-deck The production technology of band yarn fabric.
Technical scheme: a kind of production technology of polyster fibre/viscose rayon bilayer band yarn fabric, walk including following Rapid: product organization design → loose type coning → cone dyeing → rewinding → double twisting → warping → axle → pass → weave;
(1) product organization design
Band yarn fabric warp has three systems, and textura epidermoidea is plain weave;Nexine is organized as 4 pieces and becomes then satin weave, adopts Reverse side is weaved, to reduce shedding number of times, thus reducing the abrasion of heald frame and heald, the consumption of electric energy, and cost-effective;Band yarn is organized It is not involved in interweaving, be clipped between top fabric woven and nexine fabric woven;
(2) loose type coning
From ga014sfsf type grooved drum type spooler, the speed of bobbin-winding machine doff is 380m/min, and rolling density is 0.30g/cm3
(3) cone dyeing
By table through dying black, back warp, band yarn white colouring, black dyed by weft yarn;
(4) rewinding
From 1332md type bobbin-winding machine, winder speed is 500m/min, and groove drum uses metal drum, with the product of minimizing electrostatic Raw, for improving yarn qualities, during joint, from hand held air splicer;
(5) double twisting
Using rf321 type two-for-one twister, t/r65/35 40sYarn when twisting with the fingers, speed is 35m/min, and the twist is 680 sth. made by twisting/m;t/ r65/35 30sYarn when twisting with the fingers, speed is 40m/min, and the twist is 580 sth. made by twisting/m, twists with the fingers and twists with the fingers to for s;
(6) warping
From ga121 beam warper, speed of beaming is 400m/min, during t/r blend fabric warping, for improving warping matter Amount, using collective's creeling, tension force zone configuration;Front-seat tension washer 13g, middle row 12g, heel row 11g, side yarn 16g;
Warp thread has three systems, table warp, back warp, band yarn, and textura epidermoidea is plain weave, and nexine is organized as four pieces and becomes then satin weave, Band yarn is not involved in interweaving, and is clipped in the middle of two-layer fabrics, therefore different through crimp, needs three axle weavings, warping respectively;
One flower circulation 32, wherein, through 40/2 doublet cord 16, back warp 30s/2 doublet cord 8, band yarn 30s/2 is bifilar for table 8, line, full width 223 flower;Side yarn be 40s/2 doublet cord 112, with table through together with warping, table is through 3568+112=of radical 3680, back warp radical 1784, band yarn radical 1784, bobbin cradle capacity is 768, and table is joined axle through 40s/2 and is: 736*5, Back warp 30s/2, joining axle is: 594*1+595*2, and it is 594*1+595*2 that band yarn 30s/2 joins axle;
And axle (7)
Using xb150 type warp rebeaming machine, and axle speed is 100m/min, and axle tension force is 100kg;
(8) pass
Table warp is plain cloth, and warp thread radical is many, and opening is not easy clearly, to be placed on proparea, comprehensive with 1-2 page, and back warp is four Piece become then satin weave, comprehensive using 3-9 page, band yarn is not involved in interweaving, and comprehensive using page 10, Side End Number is few, amounts to only 112, Comprehensive using 11-12 page;In one circulation, the 1-2 page comprehensive, page 10 comprehensive, each circulates 8 yarns, page 3 comprehensive the 5-9 page through comprehensive, Each circulates 1 yarn, and page 4 is comprehensive often to circulate 2;The 1-2 page comprehensive, comprehensive, every page of heald number 1784 of page 10, page 4 heald Number 446, page 3, the 5-9 page comprehensive, every page of heald number 223, side yarn be through page the 11st, 12 comprehensive, 56 every page;Knitted according to this The number that penetrates of this fabric is set to 2 and enters/dent by the tissue of thing and product style;
(9) weaving process
The selection of loom: knit system from ga747 low speed rapier loom;
Three axle weavings: this fabric has three warp systems, table warp is plain weave, and radical is more, and shed open is difficult clearly, to make With the original feeding system of warp of ga747 loom;Back warp is four pieces and becomes then satin weave, warp thread radical is the half of table warp, interleaving degress Few, the warp let-off is controlled using frictional force, warp beam is arranged on the top of the back rest, will be in 12cm away from rear depth of beam, this distance Can not be little, because band yarn also will pass through between table warp and back warp;Band yarn not with weft yarns, band yarn axle is placed on back rest rear Ground, the same with back warp, using frictional force control the warp let-off;
Reverse side is weaved: because table is many through radical, interleaving degress is also many, and shedding frequently, thus using reverse side weaving, is knitted in system During latitude, table through needing to lift, after reverse side weaving, through becoming layer fabric, knit it is no longer necessary to lift during back weft by the table more than radical, Therefore, it is possible to reduce shedding number of times;
Increase Side End Number: weft yarn is elastic force composite yarn, during weaving, easily produce crimping fault, good for ensureing that fabric is formed Good selvedge, during one side warping, increases the tension force of side warp thread;On the other hand increase Side End Number, to increase side yarn to weft yarn Controling power, form good selvedge;
Early opening: 280 ° of openings, warp thread has three systems, weaves into difficulty greatly, shed open is difficult clearly, using early opening work Skill, is conducive to shed open clear;
Evening enters sword: ga747 loom is many to enter sword using 75 °, and when this fabric knits processed, because warp thread has three systems, opening is not Easily clear, easily produce side three and jump fault, for preventing side three jump, will enter the sword time is adjusted to 80 ° and enters sword so that shed open is effective Highly increase, be avoided that generation three jump fault;
The low back rest: when two-layer fabric knits back weft processed, the top line of layer fabric, easily sinks, causes opening unclear, sternly Even can produce during weight not cracked ends and stop, when knitting back weft processed to reduce, the sinking of top line, using the low back rest, to subtract The tension difference of few levels warp thread, increases the tension force of top line, reduces the sinking of top line;
Short shed open: warp stop frame is moved to inner side, reduces the length of rear portion shed open, after rear portion shed length reduces, comprehensive flat When warp tension constant, during shed open full gate, yarn tension increases, and is conducive to shed open clear, beneficial to the sinking reducing warp thread;
Move back the sword time: when Filling-wise Elastic Fabric knits processed, move back the sword time late 5 ° -10 ° than opening time, so connect latitude sword and exit During shed open, warp thread chucking power ratio larger, looped weft fault can be prevented;
Weft yarn discharges length: this fabric weft yarn is full elastic fabric, and weft yarn release length controls in upper machine reed width+12cm, with Prevent the generation of right edge looped weft;
Waste selvage yarn radical: the crimping of fabric, side looped weft fault, mostly occur in the right side selvedge of fabric, therefore prevent side latitude Contracting, crimping fault, mainly take measures in the right technique of fabric, the radical of the right waste selvage yarn are increased to 20 by 16 Afterwards, elastic force latitude just can be clamped by right side slitter edge well, makes fabric form good selvedge;
Hightension: when this fabric knits processed, knitted using counter, the table more than interleaving degress is through being placed on lower floor, original by ga747 loom Let-off mechanism control;When knitting layer fabric processed for reducing, the sinking of top line, warp tension wants control bigger than normal, to reduce The possible sinking of warp thread, when knitting processed, tension weight hammer stem both sides respectively configure the tension weight of a 5kg, the tension force bullet of let-off mechanism Spring force control bigger than normal.
As optimization: the ratio of this fabric upper layer warp thread, lower layer warp yarns and band yarn is 2:1:1 arrangement, outer weft and back weft Ratio arranges for 2:1.
As optimization: this fabric blank specification is as follows: 62 inches of fabric fabric width, 75 inches of upper machine reed width, total quantity of warps 7248,95 pieces/inch of end count on machine, 115 pieces/inch of lower machine end count;90 pieces/inch of filling density on machine, 92/English of filling density under machine Very little.
Beneficial effect: the polyster fibre in the present invention/viscose rayon bilayer band yarn fabric, warp thread has three systems, Table organization is plain weave, inner be organized as four pieces and become then satin weaves, band yarn is not involved in interweaving, pad between two-layer fabrics, using under connect, Knot contact forms indistinct prism patterns in fabric face, increases aesthetic feeling to fabric.The warp thread of three systems, interleaving degress Different, different through crimp, production difficulty is big, and this fabric produces by three axles, reverse side is weaved, morning opening, evening enter sword, short The series of measures such as shed open, hightension, solve the difficult point in production process.
The present invention needs three beams of a loom to produce, and therefore production difficulty is big, and added value of product is high, and in production process, fabric is easy Play electrostatic, shed open is difficult clearly, to be weaved by reverse side, reduces shedding frequency, decrease warp end break, save energy consumption, be Prevent electrostatic, from low speed technique;For preventing fabric edge curl, increased selvedge radical and waste selvage yarn radical;For making Shed open is clear, employs techniques such as " early opening, evening enter sword, the low back rest, short shed open, hightension ", by above series of measure, Ensure that the quality of product, be that enterprise obtains preferable economic benefit.
In the present invention, textura epidermoidea is plain weave, and nexine is organized as four pieces and becomes then satin weave, and there is pad table, the centre of nexine fabric woven Yarn is organized.Double-deck band yarn fabric connects bilayer for knot, is connect using " under connect " knot connection knot, and lower layer warp yarns (knot connect through) are in table warp thread Together lifted by heald frame when shedding, just define visible top layer knot in cloth cover after putting into outer weft and connect through interlacing point, fabric Using the t/r yarn of white and black, as dominant hue, used in fabric face, white knot contact emerges in cloth cover black yarn On, white knot contact is designed by certain shedding rule, and knot contact is linked to be indistinct lines and prismatic flower on cloth cover Type, adds the aesthetic feeling of this fabric.In the centre of two-layer fabric, add band yarn tissue, band yarn not with outer weft interweave, also not with Back weft interweaves, and is directly padded between upper and lower layer warp thread, increases thick and heavy sense and the third dimension of fabric.
Brief description
Fig. 1 is fabric face schematic illustration of tissue in the present invention;
Fig. 2 is fabric backing schematic illustration of tissue in the present invention;
Fig. 3 is fabric drafting plan in the present invention.
Specific embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Specific embodiment
Through weft yarn and fabric specification
Table warp is t/r65/35 40s/ 2 black doublet cords, back warp is t/r65/35 30s/ 2 white doublet cords, band yarn is t/ r65/35 30s/ 2 white doublet cords, weft yarn is black t/r65/35 20s+70d covering yarn.
The ratio of top line, lower layer warp yarns and band yarn arranges for 2:1:1, and the ratio of outer weft and back weft arranges for 2:1.Table Through with the ratio of band yarn, table footpath and back warp, outer weft and back weft using 2:1 arrangement it is therefore an objective to enable top fabric woven to cover completely Lid layer fabric.
Fabric blank specification is as follows: 62 inches of fabric fabric width, 75 inches of upper machine reed width, total quantity of warps 7248, warp on machine Close 95 pieces/inch, 115 pieces/inch of lower machine end count;90 pieces/inch of filling density on machine, 92 pieces/inch of filling density under machine.One spends 32, Full width 223 flower.
The technological process of the present invention is as follows: product organization design → loose type coning → cone dyeing → rewinding → double twisting → whole Through → and axle → pass → weave.
1st, product organization design is as follows
Fabric face is plain weave, as shown in figure 1, shedding is the most frequent, reverse side is 4 pieces and becomes then satin weave, as Fig. 2 institute Show, using reverse side weaving, to reduce shedding number of times, thus reducing the abrasion of heald frame and heald, the consumption of electric energy, cost-effective.
Fabric adopts anti-weave, and tissue is as shown in Figure 3.In figure x represents through interlacing point, and ■ represents that knot connects interlacing point, and knot connects Point forms indistinct prism patterns in fabric face, increased the aesthetic feeling of fabric, and D score represents table warp or outer weft, due to being Counter knit, in the lower floor of fabric during weaving, thus represented with D score;" on " represent back warp, back weft, also due to be counter knit, weaving When on the upper strata of fabric, thus with " on " represent, " pad " represent band yarn organize.
2nd, loose type coning
Loose type coning is through slack winder by cylinder yarn larger for the rolling density of buying, is wound into shape, density, weight Amount etc. meets the density less pine formula bobbin of yarn dyeing requirement, and loose formula bobbin is conducive to the infiltration of dyestuff.From ga014sfsf type Grooved drum type spooler, in speed 300-400m/min, this fabric selects 380m/min, rolling density to this type bobbin-winding machine doff 0.30g/cm3.
3rd, cone dyeing
Through dying black, back warp, band yarn white colouring, black dyed by weft yarn to table.
4th, rewinding
From 1332md type bobbin-winding machine.T/r65/35 yarn, regain is 4.8%, and actual moisture regain is left 3.4% The right side, regain is relatively low, easily produces electrostatic, winder speed should not be too high, and winder speed is high, electrostatic can ratio more serious, yarn hair Plumage can increase, and therefore bobbin-winding machine should not use fully automatic high-speed bobbin-winding machine, and in production, we select 1332md bobbin-winding machine, winder speed Degree controls in 500m/min, and groove drum will use metal drum, with the generation of minimizing electrostatic, for improving yarn qualities, during joint, choosing Use hand held air splicer.
5th, double twisting operation
Using rf321 type two-for-one twister, t/r65/35 40sYarn when twisting with the fingers, speed is 35m/min, and the twist is 680 sth. made by twisting/m.t/ r65/35 30sYarn when twisting with the fingers, speed is 40m/min, and the twist is 580 sth. made by twisting/m, twists with the fingers and twists with the fingers to for s.
6th, warping
From ga121 beam warper.Speed of beaming controls in 400m/min.During t/r blend fabric warping, speed of beaming Low control, speed of beaming is fast, easily produces electrostatic, and filoplume can increase.For improving warp quality, using collective's creeling, tension force Zone configuration.Front-seat tension washer 13g, middle row 12g, heel row 11g, side yarn 16g.
Warp thread has three systems, table warp, back warp, band yarn, and textura epidermoidea is plain weave, and nexine is organized as four pieces and becomes then satin weave, Band yarn is not involved in interweaving, and is clipped in the middle of two-layer fabrics, therefore different through crimp, needs three axle weavings, warping respectively.
One flower circulation 32, wherein, table is through 40s/ 2 doublet cords 16, back warp 30s/ 2 doublet cords 8, band yarn 30s/ 2 is bifilar 8, line, full width 223 flower.Side yarn is 40s/ 2 doublet cords, 112, with table through together with warping.Table is through 3568+112=of radical 3680, back warp radical 1784, band yarn radical 1784, bobbin cradle capacity is 768, and table is through 40s/ 2 join axle is: 736*5, Back warp 30s/2 joins axle: 594*1+595*2, band yarn 30s/ 2 join axle for 594*1+595*2.
7 and axle
Using xb150 type warp rebeaming machine, and axle speed 100m/min, and axle tension force is 100kg[1].
8th, pass
Table warp is plain cloth, and warp thread radical is many, and opening is not easy clearly, to be placed on proparea, comprehensive with 1-2 page, and back warp is four Piece become then satin weave, comprehensive using 3-9 page, band yarn is not involved in interweaving, and comprehensive using page 10, Side End Number is few, amounts to only 112, Comprehensive using 11-12 page.In one circulation, the 1-2 page comprehensive, page 10 comprehensive, each circulates 8 yarns, page 3 comprehensive the 5-9 page through comprehensive, Each circulates 1 yarn, and page 4 is comprehensive often to circulate 2.The 1-2 page comprehensive, comprehensive, every page of heald number 1784 of page 10, page 4 heald Number 446, page 3, the 5-9 page comprehensive, every page of heald number 223, side yarn be through page the 11st, 12 comprehensive, 56 every page.
The number that penetrates of this fabric is set to 2 and enters/dent by the tissue according to this fabric and product style.
9th, weaving process
The selection of loom: knit system from ga747 loom.This fabric warp has three systems, and difficulty of weaving is big, and raw material is t/ R mixed yarn, easily has electrostatic, and shed open is not easy clearly, from high speed loom weaving, low production efficiency, thus to select low speed sword System knitted by bar loom.From the ga747 loom system of knitting an advantage is also that weft yarn is elastic force composite yarn, weaved using rapier loom, Sword head is strong to the control ability of weft yarn, weft yarn will not untwisting, when stockinette knits processed, the naked silk easily producing and hollow silk defect Point, can be avoided by.Ga747 loom optimum knits organizational structure complexity processed, the big fabric of difficulty of weaving;
Three axle weavings: this fabric has three warp systems, table warp is plain weave, and radical is more, and shed open is difficult clearly, to make With the original feeding system of warp of ga747 loom;Back warp is four pieces and becomes then satin weave, warp thread radical is the half of table warp, interleaving degress Few, the warp let-off is controlled using frictional force, warp beam is arranged on the top of the back rest, will be in 12cm away from rear depth of beam, this distance Can not be little, because band yarn also will pass through between table warp and back warp;Band yarn not with weft yarns, band yarn axle is placed on back rest rear Ground, the same with back warp, using frictional force control the warp let-off.
Reverse side is weaved: because table is many through radical, interleaving degress is also many, and shedding frequently, thus is weaved using reverse side.Using anti- Face is weaved, and can reduce shedding number of times: when knitting back weft processed, table through needing to lift, after reverse side is weaved, under table more than radical is through becoming Layer fabric, knits during back weft it is no longer necessary to lift.The effect of the following aspects can be obtained using reverse side weaving: 1. make shed open Easily clear, beneficial to wefting insertion;2. reduce warp end break;3. it is beneficial to save power consumption.
Increase Side End Number: weft yarn is elastic force composite yarn, during weaving, easily produce crimping fault, good for ensureing that fabric is formed Good selvedge, during one side warping, increased the tension force of side warp thread;On the other hand increase Side End Number. to increase side yarn to latitude The controling power of yarn, forms good selvedge.
Early opening: 280 ° of openings.Warp thread has three systems, weaves into difficulty greatly, shed open is difficult clearly, using early opening work Skill, is conducive to shed open clear.
Evening enters sword: 80 ° are entered sword, and ga747 loom is many to enter sword using 75 °.When this fabric knits processed, because warp thread has three it is System, opening is difficult clearly, easily produces side three and jumps fault.For preventing side three jump, will enter the sword time is adjusted to 80 ° and enters sword, makes Obtain shed open effective depth to increase, be avoided that generation three jump faults.
The low back rest: when two-layer fabric knits back weft processed, the top line of layer fabric, easily sinks, causes opening unclear, sternly Even can produce during weight not cracked ends and stop, when knitting back weft processed to reduce, the sinking of top line, using the low back rest, to subtract The tension difference of few levels warp thread, increases the tension force of top line, reduces the sinking of top line.
Short shed open: warp stop frame is moved to inner side, reduces the length of rear portion shed open, after rear portion shed length reduces, comprehensive flat When warp tension constant, during shed open full gate, yarn tension increases, and is conducive to shed open clear, beneficial to the sinking reducing warp thread.
Move back the sword time: when connecing latitude sword and exiting shed open, the angle residing for loom is to move back the sword time.When non-stretchable fabric knits processed, Weft yarn resilience force is little, and it is identical with opening time to move back the sword time, connects latitude sword and exits shed open, weft yarn is released, and weft yarn is clamped by warp thread, Realize warp and weft interweaving.When Filling-wise Elastic Fabric knits processed, because weft yarn resilience force is big, if it is identical with opening time to move back the sword time, Connect latitude sword and just exited shed open, weft yarn is released, now, the chucking power also very little to weft yarn for the warp thread, weft yarn can produce retraction, Formation side looped weft fault at the selvedge of right side.When Filling-wise Elastic Fabric knits processed, move back the sword time late 5 ° -10 ° than opening time, so connect When latitude sword exits shed open, warp thread chucking power ratio larger, looped weft fault can be prevented.Move back evening sword time, warp thread clamps to weft yarn Power is big, moves back sword time nor evening again, moves back the sword time too late, can draw weft yarn in the place apart from right side selvedge 10-15cm Disconnected, form fault.
Weft yarn discharges length: when fabrics in general knits processed, weft yarn release length is: upper machine reed width+5-6cm, stockinette is knitted When processed, weft yarn release length controls in upper machine reed width+10-12cm, and this fabric weft yarn is full elastic fabric, and weft yarn release length controls In upper machine reed width+12cm, to prevent the generation of right edge looped weft.
Waste selvage yarn radical: the crimping of fabric, side looped weft fault, mostly occur in the right side selvedge of fabric, therefore prevent side latitude Contracting, crimping fault, mainly take measures in the right technique of fabric.The radical of the right waste selvage yarn is increased to by we by 16 After 20, elastic force latitude just can be clamped by right side slitter edge well, makes fabric form good selvedge.
Hightension: when this fabric knits processed, knitted using counter, the table more than interleaving degress is through being placed on lower floor, original by ga747 loom Let-off mechanism control.When knitting layer fabric processed for reducing, the sinking of top line, warp tension wants control bigger than normal, to reduce The possible sinking of warp thread.When knitting processed, tension weight hammer stem both sides respectively configure the tension weight of a 5kg, the tension force bullet of let-off mechanism Spring force control bigger than normal.
The trimmed size of 3 fabrics:
Fabric width be 59/60inch, after washing through close be 121 pieces/inch, finished product end count be 126 pieces/inch;Washing Filling density is 94 pieces/inch afterwards, and finished product filling density is 97 pieces/inch.Washing width shrinkage is 5%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 4%, the contracting of lower machine width Rate 17%, washing long shrinkage is 3%, the long shrinkage of dyeing and finishing 3%, latitude crimp 2.2%.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, and anyone can show that under the enlightenment of the present invention other are various The product of form, however, making any change in its shape or structure, every have skill identical or similar to the present application Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (3)

1. a kind of polyster fibre/viscose rayon bilayer band yarn fabric production technology it is characterised in that: include following walking Rapid: product organization design → loose type coning → cone dyeing → rewinding → double twisting → warping → axle → pass → weave;
(1) product organization design
Band yarn fabric warp has three systems, and textura epidermoidea is plain weave;Nexine is organized as 4 pieces and becomes then satin weave, using reverse side Weaving, to reduce shedding number of times, thus reducing the abrasion of heald frame and heald, the consumption of electric energy, cost-effective;Band yarn tissue is not joined With intertexture, it is clipped between top fabric woven and nexine fabric woven;
(2) loose type coning
From ga014sfsf type grooved drum type spooler, the speed of bobbin-winding machine doff is 380m/min, and rolling density is 0.30g/ cm3
(3) cone dyeing
By table through dying black, back warp, band yarn white colouring, black dyed by weft yarn;
(4) rewinding
From 1332md type bobbin-winding machine, winder speed is 500m/min, and groove drum uses metal drum, with the generation of minimizing electrostatic, For improving yarn qualities, during joint, from hand held air splicer;
(5) double twisting
Using rf321 type two-for-one twister, t/r65/35 40sYarn when twisting with the fingers, speed is 35m/min, and the twist is 680 sth. made by twisting/m;t/r65/ 35 30sYarn when twisting with the fingers, speed is 40m/min, and the twist is 580 sth. made by twisting/m, twists with the fingers and twists with the fingers to for s;
(6) warping
From ga121 beam warper, speed of beaming is 400m/min, during t/r blend fabric warping, for improving warp quality, Using collective's creeling, tension force zone configuration;Front-seat tension washer 13g, middle row 12g, heel row 11g, side yarn 16g;
Warp thread has three systems, table warp, back warp, band yarn, and textura epidermoidea is plain weave, and nexine is organized as four pieces and becomes then satin weave, band yarn It is not involved in interweaving, be clipped in the middle of two-layer fabrics, therefore different through crimp, need three axle weavings, warping respectively;
One flower circulation 32, wherein, table is through 40s/ 2 doublet cords 16, back warp 30s/ 2 doublet cords 8, band yarn 30s/ 2 doublet cords 8 Root, full width 223 flower;Side yarn is 40s/ 2 doublet cords 112, with table through together with warping, table is through 3568+112=3680 of radical Root, back warp radical 1784, band yarn radical 1784, bobbin cradle capacity is 768, and table is through 40s/ 2 join axle is: 736*5, back warp 30s/2, joining axle is: 594*1+595*2, band yarn 30s/ 2 join axle for 594*1+595*2;
And axle (7)
Using xb150 type warp rebeaming machine, and axle speed is 100m/min, and axle tension force is 100kg;
(8) pass
Table warp is plain cloth, and warp thread radical is many, and opening is not easy clearly, to be placed on proparea, comprehensive with 1-2 page, and back warp is four pieces of changes Then satin weave, comprehensive using 3-9 page, band yarn is not involved in interweaving, and comprehensive using page 10, Side End Number is few, amounts to only 112, uses 11-12 page comprehensive;In one circulation, the 1-2 page comprehensive, page 10 comprehensive, each circulates 8 yarns, page 3 comprehensive the 5-9 page through comprehensive, each 1 yarn of circulation, page 4 is comprehensive often to circulate 2;The 1-2 page comprehensive, comprehensive, every page of heald number 1784 of page 10, page 4 heald number 446 Root, page 3, the 5-9 page comprehensive, every page of heald number 223, side yarn be through page the 11st, 12 comprehensive, 56 every page;According to this fabric The number that penetrates of this fabric is set to 2 and enters/dent by tissue and product style;
(9) weaving process
The selection of loom: knit system from ga747 low speed rapier loom;
Three axle weavings: this fabric has three warp systems, table warp is plain weave, and radical is more, and shed open is difficult clearly, to use The original feeding system of warp of ga747 loom;Back warp is four pieces and becomes then satin weave, warp thread radical is the half of table warp, and interleaving degress is also few, The warp let-off is controlled using frictional force, warp beam is arranged on the top of the back rest, will be in 12cm away from rear depth of beam, this distance can not Little, because band yarn also will pass through between table warp and back warp;Band yarn not with weft yarns, band yarn axle is placed on the ground at back rest rear On, the same with back warp, the warp let-off is controlled using frictional force;
Reverse side is weaved: because table is many through radical, interleaving degress is also many, and shedding frequently, thus using reverse side weaving, knits back weft processed When, table through needing to lift, after reverse side weaving, through becoming layer fabric, knit it is no longer necessary to lift during back weft by the table more than radical, because This can reduce shedding number of times;
Increase Side End Number: weft yarn is elastic force composite yarn, during weaving, easily produce crimping fault, good for ensureing that fabric is formed Selvedge, during one side warping, increases the tension force of side warp thread;On the other hand increase Side End Number, to increase the control to weft yarn for the side yarn Power processed, forms good selvedge;
Early opening: 280 ° of openings, warp thread has three systems, weaves into difficulty greatly, shed open is difficult clearly, using early opening process, Be conducive to shed open clear;
Evening enters sword: ga747 loom is many to enter sword using 75 °, and when this fabric knits processed, because warp thread has three systems, opening is difficult clearly Clear, easily produce side three and jump fault, for preventing side three jump, will enter the sword time is adjusted to 80 ° and enters sword so that shed open effective depth Increase, be avoided that generation three jump fault;
The low back rest: when two-layer fabric knits back weft processed, the top line of layer fabric, easily sinks, causes opening unclear, when serious Even can produce not cracked ends and stop, when knitting back weft processed to reduce, the sinking of top line, using the low back rest, with minimizing The tension difference of lower layer warp yarns, increases the tension force of top line, reduces the sinking of top line;
Short shed open: warp stop frame is moved to inner side, reduces the length of rear portion shed open, after rear portion shed length reduces, comprehensive go up at ordinary times Machine tension force is constant, and during shed open full gate, yarn tension increases, and is conducive to shed open clear, beneficial to the sinking reducing warp thread;
Move back the sword time: when Filling-wise Elastic Fabric knits processed, move back the sword time late 5 ° -10 ° than opening time, so connect latitude sword and exit shed open When, warp thread chucking power ratio larger, looped weft fault can be prevented;
Weft yarn discharges length: this fabric weft yarn is full elastic fabric, and weft yarn release length controls in upper machine reed width+12cm, to prevent The generation of right edge looped weft;
Waste selvage yarn radical: the crimping of fabric, side looped weft fault, mostly occur in the right side selvedge of fabric, therefore prevent side looped weft, volume Side fault, mainly takes measures in the right technique of fabric, and the radical of the right waste selvage yarn is increased to after 20 by 16, right Elastic force latitude just can be clamped by side slitter edge well, makes fabric form good selvedge;
Hightension: when this fabric knits processed, knitted using counter, the table more than interleaving degress, through being placed on lower floor, is sent by ga747 loom is original Through mechanism controls;When knitting layer fabric processed for reducing, the sinking of top line, warp tension wants control bigger than normal, to reduce warp thread Possible sinking, when knitting processed, tension weight hammer stem both sides respectively configure the tension weight of a 5kg, the tension spring bullet of let-off mechanism Power control bigger than normal.
2. the production technology of polyster fibre according to claim 1/viscose rayon bilayer band yarn fabric, its feature exists In: the ratio of this fabric upper layer warp thread, lower layer warp yarns and band yarn arranges for 2:1:1, and the ratio of outer weft and back weft arranges for 2:1.
3. the production technology of polyster fibre according to claim 1/viscose rayon bilayer band yarn fabric, its feature exists In: this fabric blank specification is as follows: 62 inches of fabric fabric width, 75 inches of upper machine reed width, total quantity of warps 7248, end count 95 on machine Piece/inch, 115 pieces/inch of lower machine end count;90 pieces/inch of filling density on machine, 92 pieces/inch of filling density under machine.
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