CN107974752A - A kind of tencel, which relaxes, plays the production technology of silk face fabric - Google Patents

A kind of tencel, which relaxes, plays the production technology of silk face fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN107974752A
CN107974752A CN201711342315.4A CN201711342315A CN107974752A CN 107974752 A CN107974752 A CN 107974752A CN 201711342315 A CN201711342315 A CN 201711342315A CN 107974752 A CN107974752 A CN 107974752A
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fabric
yarn
weft yarn
tencel
silk
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瞿建新
张曙光
刘梅城
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D5/00Selvedges
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B5/00Forcing liquids, gases or vapours through textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing impregnating
    • D06B5/02Forcing liquids, gases or vapours through textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing impregnating through moving materials of indefinite length
    • D06B5/06Forcing liquids, gases or vapours through textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing impregnating through moving materials of indefinite length through yarns, threads or filaments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11Starch or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/263Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk

Abstract

Relax the invention discloses a kind of tencel and play the production technology of silk face fabric, include the following steps:(1) product design;(2) winder;(3) whole slurry combined production process;(4) gait;(5) weft twisting;(6) weave.Tencel in the present invention, which relaxes, plays silk face fabric, and skin-friendly is good, and fabric is soft, and crease-resistant conformal performance is good, and the color of fabric is beautiful, and for clothing fit without tightening, dress as snug as a bug in a rug, disclosure satisfy that consumers in general follow the fashion and comfortable double requirements.

Description

A kind of tencel, which relaxes, plays the production technology of silk face fabric
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric field, and in particular to a kind of tencel, which relaxes, plays the production technology of silk face fabric.
Background technology
Tencel, which relaxes, plays silk face fabric, is interwoven by three kinds of tencel, cotton and easypro elater fiber blends.Easypro elater is U.S. Du A kind of functional fiber of company of nation production, relaxing, bullet silk fiber skin-friendly, flexibility, elastic recovery are good, and elastic force does not have spandex Silk is big, but elasticity is persistently, and resistance to strong acid, highly basic, will not be broken as spandex thread, and wrinkle resistance, conformal performance are good, and the bullet that relaxes Silk fiber surface does not have that terylene is smooth, and section is nor cylinder, but the polygon do not advised, interfibrous cohesive force are greater than Polyester fiber, thus relax elater will not as terylene pilling, relax elater dyeability it is also very good, the color of fabric Can be very gorgeous, therefore many performances of the fiber are better than ordinary polyester, but its gas permeability, penetrability are poorer than polyester fiber. Easypro elater can be blended with multiple fiber, it is blended after yarn keep the original excellent performance of blend fibre, while obtain again Good elasticity.Cotton fiber hygroscopicity, good permeability, but the wearability of cotton fabric, conformality are poor.Tencel fiber is a kind of Regenerated celulose fibre, has the gloss as silk, and fiber softening, hygroscopicity good permeability, the fabric being processed into is well-pressed, pendency Property is good.Three kinds of tencel, cotton and easypro elater fiber blends are interweaved, manufactured fabric, it is original comfortable to remain tencel/cotton fiber Property, gas permeability, and be provided with relax play silk fiber possessed by conformality, wearability, and relax play silk face fabric it is elastic moderate, add Work into fabric it is fit without tightening, elasticity persistently, will not as spandex thread with washing stretch, spandex thread fracture, cause elasticity Disappear, the skin-friendly of fabric, comfort are especially advantageous, are a high-grade underwear fabrics, can meet that consumers in general pursue Fashion and comfortable dual requirements.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention:In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, relax the present invention provides a kind of tencel and play the life of silk face fabric Production. art.
Technical solution:A kind of tencel, which relaxes, plays the production technology of silk face fabric, includes the following steps:
(1) product design:This fabric selects combed cotton and easypro elater mixed yarn to make weft yarn, and blending ratio is combed cotton 70%, Relax elater 30%, and selecting tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn, blending ratio is tencel 50%, cotton 50% as warp thread, with combed cotton/easypro elater Interweave, gas permeability, the penetrability of fabric are preferable, realize mutual supplement with each other's advantages of the multiple fiber in performance;The ground of fabric is organized as Figured texture weave, interleaving degress is fewer, and weft yarn is stretch yarn, and the right side selvedge of fabric is readily formed crimping float, in order to protect Demonstrate,prove that cloth cover is smooth and when fabric post-treatment will not be by drawing crack, it is necessary to which using more side yarn, the left side selvedge of fabric is set as 96, for right side selvedge to prevent crimping float, selvedge radical is set as 140, by this measure, ensure that the flat of fabric It is whole;The elater mixed yarn that relaxes makees weft yarn use, to reduce the production difficulty of fabric;
Fabric specification is as follows:Fabric breadth 170cm, fabric is through close 405/10cm, 350/10cm of fabric filling density, porter 187 teeth/10cm, upper machine reed width 184.4cm, one meter through 1.13 meters long, comprehensive number of pages page 10, ground tissue penetrates number 2 and enters, and Selvage Stitch is worn Enter number 2 to enter, Selvage Stitch is plain weave, and ground is organized as figured texture weave;
Warp thread is tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn of 11.7tex, and blending ratio 50/50, color is white to add, total quantity of warps 6896 Root, side yarn is identical with body warp, 96, left side yarn, 140, right edge yarn;
The combed cotton that weft yarn is 14.6tex/relax elater mixed yarn, blending ratio relax elater 30 for combed cotton 70/, yarn color For blue;
(2) winder:Using 1332M type bobbin-winding machine rewindings, warp thread is tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn of 11.7tex, and yarn count is thinner, Single thread force is relatively low, during winder with low velocity, small tension receiving coil, protect elasticity as basic technology principle;Weft yarn is the combing of 14.6tex Cotton/relax elater mixed yarn, the elater that relaxes easily plays electrostatic, and speed is also unsuitable fast, and winder speed control is in 500m/min, additional tension Packing ring weight is 7.4 grams;
Weft yarn easily plays electrostatic, and winder yarn road is unobstructed, prevents yarn from fluffing, and fabric is zephyr, and yarn qualities will be got well, Hand-held splicer connector is used after broken end;Winder Clearing Processing is:Cotton knot+300%, short slub+140%*1.5cm are long thick Section+50%*10cm, long details -30%*30cm;
(3) whole slurry combined production process:The production of HFZJ800 types sizing warper is selected, piece yarn tension is uniform in order to control, it is desirable to cylinder Sub- size is the same;Since whole slurry speed is slow, it is necessary to carry out the setting of additional tension, bobbin cradle is divided into three sections from front to back, 8 grams of leading portion additional tension, 7 grams of stage casing, 6 grams of back segment;The bright and clean of yarn road is kept during whole slurry, reduces the generation of filoplume;
The total quantity of warps of full width fabric is 6896, and selvedge yarn is identical with body warp, and full width warp thread is divided into 9 strands, wherein the Hank and last hank, often twist 767, and second twists to the 8th strand, often twists 766;The upper machine reed width of fabric is 184.4cm, often Strand mean breadth is 20.5cm;
Formula of size:Converted starch 70%, solid propenoic acid class slurry 30%;The solid content control of slurries is 9%, slurries Viscosity control at 7-8 seconds;
Sizing speed:Sizing speed control is between 45m/min-50m/min;
Low temperature starching:Slurry groove temperature is controlled at 40 DEG C, and stock tank is no longer heat up, and slurry groove temperature is controlled by mixing cirtern;
Mud-jacking technology:Using mud-jacking technology light after preceding weight, preceding squeezing roller pressure control is in 0.44MPa, post jacking roll-in Power is controlled in 0.24MPa, and it is 40cm that expansion reed, which controls the soaking paste width often twisted, the actual pressure of preceding squeezing roller at 176 kilograms, after The actual pressure of squeezing roller is at 96 kilograms;
In 0.30MPa, the regain of tencel is the Steam pressure control of drying cylinder in 13%, the regain of cotton fiber 8.5%, blending ratio 50/50, sized warp moisture regain is controlled 8%;
(4) gait:Side yarn wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, body warp gait order is:3-10 pages comprehensive along wearing;
(5) weft twisting:, it is necessary to more than when workshop placement 48 is small after weft yarn winder, then reuse;
(6) weave:GA718 type air-jet looms are selected to weave, loom rotating speed is 520r/min;
Opening time:The thread count of fabric is bigger, and shed open is not easy clearly, to select early opening process, opening during weaving Time is 290 °.Opening time is early, and shed open is easily clear, favourable to beating up.
Mixed latitude technique:Weft yarn only has a kind of color, to prevent cloth cover from producing aberration, replaces wefting insertion using two weft accumulators.
Weft insertion technique:Weft yarn beginning flying angle:The upper machine reed width of fabric is bigger, in the left side selvedge of fabric, does not produce three On the premise of jumping fault, weft yarn beginning flying angle is advisable with early;Weft yarn beginning flying angle is set as 85 °, and weft yarn beginning flying angle is early, can be with Ensure that weft yarn there are enough flight time, it is favourable to the pressure and reduction Stoppage of reduction jet;
Weft yarn angle of arrival is controlled between 225 ° -235 °, and angle of arrival suitably reduces whiff pressure, angle of arrival earlier than 225 ° It is later than 235 °, suitably increases whiff pressure;
Whiff pressure:Main jet whiff pressure is controlled between 0.26Mpa-0.28Mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying control is in 0.30Mpa- Between 0.33Mpa, the weft yarn angle of arrival that actual pressure is shown according to board adjusts;
Filling Insertion Time is:Keeping off 70 ° of yarn pin release time, main jet jet time is 60 ° -160 °, using 8 groups of auxiliary sprays, first The auxiliary spray jet time of group is 60 ° -120 °, and second group of auxiliary spray jet time is 78 ° -138 °, and the 3rd group of auxiliary spray jet time is 96 ° -156 °, the 4th group of auxiliary spray jet time is 114 ° -174 °, and the 5th group of auxiliary spray jet time is 132 ° -192 °, and the 6th group auxiliary Spray jet time be 150 ° -210 °, the 7th group it is auxiliary spray jet time be 170 ° -230 °, the 8th group it is auxiliary spray jet time for 190 ° - 290°;
Gentle breeze:Gentle breeze pressure will determine that gentle breeze pressure is determined as between 0.09MPa-0.10MPa according to the elasticity of yarn, When ensuring that weft yarn is not skidded off from main burner, gentle breeze pressure is advisable with small;
Back beam height:Back beam height is 0 scale.This pick count is higher, but the interleaving degress of fabric and little, weft yarn It is relatively easily urgent, therefore the alto back rest is used, shed open is easily clear, favourable to wefting insertion;
Weft yarn discharges length:The elastic force for bullet silk fabrics of relaxing is moderate, weft yarn release length control+2-3cm on the outside of waste selvage yarn;
Tencel relax play silk face fabric to be dispatched from the factory in the form of reel package;
Workshop moisture temperature:Elater appearance of relaxing is easy to produce static electricity, therefore the humiture in workshop will be controlled strictly, workshop temperature control Between 22 DEG C -28 DEG C, relative humidity is controlled between 70%-75%.
As an optimization:Trimmed size is as follows:Fabric width 146cm, finished product through close 472/10cm, finished product filling density 354/ 10cm, the width shrinkage 14.1% of fabric, the long shrinkage 1% of fabric, fabric through crimp 11.5%, the latitude crimp 7.8% of fabric.
Beneficial effect:Tencel in the present invention, which relaxes, plays silk face fabric, and skin-friendly is good, and fabric is soft, and crease-resistant conformal performance is good, The color of fabric is beautiful, and persistently, for clothing fit without tightening, dress as snug as a bug in a rug, disclosure satisfy that consumers in general to fabric elasticity Follow the fashion and comfortable double requirements.
Easypro elater easily plays electrostatic, and gas permeability penetrability is poor, in production process it is noted that it is following some:(1) elater that relaxes easily rises Electrostatic, during winder will using low velocity, small tension receiving coil as technique basic principle.(2) curling of easypro bullet silk fiber is more, is individually combed into Bar it is difficult, it is necessary to other fiber blends.Ratio of the elater in mixed yarn relax no more than 60%, relaxes elater in mixed yarn Ratio it is high, the bar of yarn is done can be poor.(3) relax and play silk fiber needs and other fiber blends intertexture, it is saturating to improve its The defects of gas, poor penetrability.(4) when this fabric produces, since ground tissue interleaving degress is few, weft yarn is elastic, easily produces Crimping fault keeps the smooth of cloth cover, it is necessary to increase Side End Number.(5) in order to reduce the production difficulty of product, relax and play silk blend Yarn is used as weft yarn.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the pegging plan of the present invention.
Embodiment
The technical solution in the embodiment of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this area Personnel can be better understood from advantages and features of the invention, so as to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention In embodiment, the every other implementation that those of ordinary skill in the art are obtained on the premise of creative work is not made Example, belongs to the scope of protection of the invention.
Specific embodiment
1. product design:
1.1 relax, and bullet silk fiber skin-friendly is good, and soft, elasticity is moderate, fit without tightening as wearing fabric, wears As snug as a bug in a rug, but the elater that relaxes also has the defects of polyester fiber etc. is intrinsic, can be sultry when wearing as gas permeability, penetrability are poor, easily Electrostatic is played, therefore uni-material fabric should not be made, it is necessary to interweave with other fiber blends, product design is mainly from the following aspects Consider:(1) relax play silk fiber curling it is relatively more, be not easy to be combed into bar, individually spinning difficulty, it is necessary to other fiber blends. When easypro elater ratio is more than 60%, spinning is just extremely difficult, therefore in order to improve the spinnability of easypro elater, the ratio for the elater that relaxes Between 30%-40%, spinnability is relatively good for control, and the bar of yarn is done, this fabric, which selects combed cotton and relaxes, plays silk blend, Blending ratio is combed cotton 70%, and relax elater 30%, and this scribbled has preferable bar to do, while has moderate elasticity again. (2) comfort of fabric.Easypro elater is a kind of functional polyalkylene ester fiber, and skin-friendly is good, fiber softening, but the gas permeability of fiber, Penetrability is poor, have impact on the comfort of fabric, selects tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn as warp thread, and blending ratio is tencel 50%, cotton 50%, interweave with the combed cotton/elater that relaxes, gas permeability, the penetrability of fabric are preferable, realize advantage of the multiple fiber in performance It is complementary.(3) ground of fabric is organized as figured texture weave, and interleaving degress is fewer, and weft yarn is stretch yarn, and shape is easy on the right of fabric Into crimping float, in order to ensure smooth cloth cover and fabric post-treatment when will not be by drawing crack, it is necessary to use more side yarn.Fabric Left side selvedge be set as 96, for right side selvedge to prevent crimping float, selvedge radical is set as 140, by this measure, It ensure that the smooth of fabric.(4) relax elater mixed yarn, due to flexible, is made weft yarn use, to reduce the production of fabric hardly possible Degree.
1.2 fabric specifications
Fabric breadth 170cm, fabric is through close 405/10cm, 350/10cm of fabric filling density, 187 teeth of porter/10cm, on Machine reed width 184.4cm, one meter through 1.13 meters long, comprehensive number of pages page 10, ground tissue penetrates number 2 and enters, and Selvage Stitch penetrates number 2 and enters, side group Plain weave is woven to, ground is organized as figured texture weave.
Warp thread be 11.7tex tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn, blending ratio 50/50.Color is white to add, total quantity of warps 6896 Root, side yarn is identical with body warp, 96, left side yarn, 140, right edge yarn.
The combed cotton that weft yarn is 14.6tex/relax elater mixed yarn, blending ratio relax elater 30 for combed cotton 70/.Yarn color For blue.Fabric pegging plan is as shown in Figure 1.
2. production essentials:
2.1 winder
Use 1332M type bobbin-winding machine rewindings.Warp thread is tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn of 11.7tex, and yarn count is thinner, single thread force It is relatively low, during winder with low velocity, small tension receiving coil, protect elasticity as basic technology principle;The combed cotton that weft yarn is 14.6tex/relax elater Mixed yarn, the elater that relaxes easily play electrostatic, and speed is also unsuitable fast.Winder speed control is in 500m/min, additional tension packing ring weight For 7.4 grams.
Weft yarn easily plays electrostatic, and winder yarn road is unobstructed, prevents yarn from fluffing, and fabric is zephyr, and yarn qualities will be got well, Hand-held splicer connector is used after broken end.Winder Clearing Processing is:Cotton knot+300%, short slub+140%*1.5cm are long thick Section+50%*10cm, long details -30%*30cm.
2.2 whole slurry combined production process:This fabric is product newly developed, and operation amount is less, and production process selects whole slurry joint work Sequence, to reduce hard waste amount.
2.2.1 the production of HFZJ800 types sizing warper is selected, the capacity of the type sizing warper bobbin cradle is 800.For Control sheet yarn tension is uniform, it is desirable to which bobbin size is the same;Since whole slurry speed is slow, it is necessary to carry out the setting of additional tension, Bobbin cradle is divided into three sections from front to back, 8 grams of leading portion additional tension, 7 grams of stage casing, 6 grams of back segment.The light in yarn road is kept during whole slurry It is clean, reduce the generation of filoplume.
The total quantity of warps of full width fabric is 6896, and selvedge yarn is identical with body warp, and full width warp thread is divided into 9 strands, wherein the Hank and last hank, often twist 767, and second twists to the 8th strand, often twists 766.The upper machine reed width of fabric is 184.4cm, often Strand mean breadth is 20.5cm.
2.2.2 formula of size:Converted starch 70%, solid propenoic acid class slurry 30%.The solid content control of slurries exists 9%, the viscosity of slurries was controlled at 7-8 seconds.
Warp thread is tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn of 11.7tex, according to the similar principle to mix, selects converted starch as main slurry Material, since warp thread is thinner, through close higher, when starching is impregnated with lays equal stress on being coated to, and in order to increase the impregnability of slurries, is starching Solid propenoic acid class slurry is added in material formula.Solid propenoic acid class slurry, impregnability is good, and leasing performance is good, through close big Fabric, add acrylic size, can reduce leasing broken end, keep serous coat it is complete, improve the wear-resisting property of warp thread.
Sizing speed:For sizing speed control between 45m/min-50m/min, sizing speed should not be fast, because through close big, Yarn adhesion is more, and sizing speed is fast, easily produces leasing broken end and tear serous coat.
Low temperature starching:Slurry groove temperature is controlled at 40 DEG C or so, and stock tank is no longer heat up, and slurry groove temperature is controlled by mixing cirtern.
Mud-jacking technology.Using mud-jacking technology light after preceding weight, preceding squeezing roller pressure control is in 0.44Mpa, post jacking roll-in Power is controlled in 0.24MPa, and it is 40cm that expansion reed, which controls the soaking paste width often twisted, the actual pressure of preceding squeezing roller at 176 kilograms, after The actual pressure of squeezing roller is at 96 kilograms.
The Steam pressure control of drying cylinder is in 0.30MPa, the control less than normal of drying cylinder pressure, this is because yarn is thinner, drying chamber Temperature is unsuitable high, and drying chamber temperature is high, when handling broken end, be easy to cause excessive drying, causes warp thread brittle failure.
The regain of tencel is 13% or so, and the regain of cotton fiber is 8.5%, and blending ratio 50/50, sizing returns Damp rate control is 8% or so.
2.3 gait
Side yarn wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, body warp gait order is:3-10 pages comprehensive along wearing.
2.4 weft twisting:, it is necessary to more than when workshop placement 48 is small after weft yarn winder, then reuse.
2.5 weaving:GA718 type air-jet looms are selected to weave, loom rotating speed is 520r/min.
2.5.1 opening time:The thread count of fabric is bigger, and shed open is not easy clearly, to select early opening process during weaving, Opening time is 290 °.Opening time is early, and shed open is easily clear, favourable to beating up.
2.5.2 mixed latitude technique:Weft yarn only has a kind of color, to prevent cloth cover from producing aberration, is replaced using two weft accumulators Wefting insertion.
2.5.3 weft insertion technique:
Weft yarn beginning flying angle:The upper machine reed width of fabric is bigger, in the left side selvedge of fabric, before not producing three jump faults Put, weft yarn beginning flying angle is advisable with early.Weft yarn beginning flying angle is set as 85 °, and weft yarn beginning flying angle is early, it is ensured that weft yarn has It is enough flight time, favourable to the pressure and reduction Stoppage of reduction jet.
Weft yarn angle of arrival is set in 230 °, and the upper machine reed width of fabric is bigger, and weft yarn angle of arrival should not be early, and weft yarn reaches It is early, it is necessary to which larger whiff pressure, easily produces long latitude and stops platform.Weft yarn beginning flying angle also should not be late again, weft yarn beginning flying angle evening, Easily produce short latitude and stop platform.During actual production, weft yarn angle of arrival is controlled between 225 ° -235 °, and angle of arrival is earlier than 225 °, suitably Whiff pressure is reduced, angle of arrival is later than 235 °, suitably increases whiff pressure.
Whiff pressure:Weft yarn is flexible, but elasticity is big without spandex, therefore whiff pressure need not be very big, main jet spray Atmospheric pressure is controlled between 0.26Mpa-0.28Mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying control is between 0.30Mpa-0.33Mpa.Actual pressure root The weft yarn angle of arrival shown according to board adjusts.
Filling Insertion Time is:Keeping off 70 ° of yarn pin release time, main jet jet time is 60 ° -160 °, using 8 groups of auxiliary sprays, first The auxiliary spray jet time of group is 60 ° -120 °, and second group of auxiliary spray jet time is 78 ° -138 °, and the 3rd group of auxiliary spray jet time is 96 ° -156 °, the 4th group of auxiliary spray jet time is 114 ° -174 °, and the 5th group of auxiliary spray jet time is 132 ° -192 °, and the 6th group auxiliary Spray jet time be 150 ° -210 °, the 7th group it is auxiliary spray jet time be 170 ° -230 °, the 8th group it is auxiliary spray jet time for 190 ° - 290°。
Gentle breeze:Gentle breeze pressure will determine that the elasticity rate spandex for the elater that relaxes is small, than common yarn bullet according to the elasticity of yarn Power is big, therefore gentle breeze also falls between, and gentle breeze pressure is determined as between 0.09MPa-0.10MPa, is ensuring weft yarn not When being skidded off from main burner, gentle breeze pressure is advisable with small.
2.5.4 back beam height:Using the alto back rest, back beam height is zero graduation.When high density fabric produces, to make Weft yarn is easily urgent, commonly uses beam process after height.This pick count is higher, but the interleaving degress of fabric and little, and weft yarn is opposite It is easily urgent, therefore the alto back rest is used, shed open is easily clear, favourable to wefting insertion.
2.5.5 weft yarn discharges length:Relax play silk fabrics elastic force it is moderate, weft yarn release length control on the outside of waste selvage yarn+ 2-3cm。
2.5.6 tencel relax play silk face fabric to be dispatched from the factory in the form of reel package.Tencel fiber is rigidly big, can be stayed after folding Lower folding line.
2.5.7 workshop moisture temperature:Elater appearance of relaxing is easy to produce static electricity, therefore the humiture in workshop will be controlled strictly, workshop temperature Between 22 DEG C -28 DEG C, relative humidity is controlled between 70%-75% for degree control.
3. trimmed size
Fabric width 146cm, finished product is through close 472/10cm, 354/10cm of finished product filling density, the width shrinkage of fabric 14.1%, the long shrinkage 1% of fabric, fabric through crimp 11.5%, the latitude crimp 7.8% of fabric.
Tencel in the present invention, which relaxes, plays silk face fabric, and skin-friendly is good, and fabric is soft, and crease-resistant conformal performance is good, the face of fabric Color is beautiful, and persistently, for clothing fit without tightening, dress as snug as a bug in a rug, disclosure satisfy that consumers in general follow the fashion to fabric elasticity With comfortable double requirements.
Easypro elater easily plays electrostatic, and gas permeability penetrability is poor, in production process it is noted that it is following some:(1) elater that relaxes easily rises Electrostatic, during winder will using low velocity, small tension receiving coil as technique basic principle.(2) curling of easypro bullet silk fiber is more, is individually combed into Bar it is difficult, it is necessary to other fiber blends.Ratio of the elater in mixed yarn relax no more than 60%, relaxes elater in mixed yarn Ratio it is high, the bar of yarn is done can be poor.(3) relax and play silk fiber needs and other fiber blends intertexture, it is saturating to improve its The defects of gas, poor penetrability.(4) when this fabric produces, since ground tissue interleaving degress is few, weft yarn is elastic, easily produces Crimping fault keeps the smooth of cloth cover, it is necessary to increase Side End Number.(5) in order to reduce the production difficulty of product, relax and play silk blend Yarn is used as weft yarn.

Claims (2)

1. a kind of tencel, which relaxes, plays the production technology of silk face fabric, it is characterised in that:Include the following steps:
(1) product design:This fabric, which selects combed cotton and relaxes, plays silk blend as weft yarn, and blending ratio is combed cotton 70%, and relax bullet Silk 30%, selects tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn as warp thread, and blending ratio is tencel 50%, and cotton 50%, interweaves with the combed cotton/elater that relaxes, Gas permeability, the penetrability of fabric are preferable, realize mutual supplement with each other's advantages of the multiple fiber in performance;The ground of fabric is organized as jacquard weave group Knit, interleaving degress is fewer, and weft yarn is stretch yarn, and crimping float is readily formed on the right of fabric, in order to ensure that cloth cover is smooth And will not be by drawing crack, it is necessary to using more side yarn during fabric post-treatment, the left side selvedge of fabric is set as 96, right side cloth To prevent crimping float, selvedge radical is set as 140, by this measure, ensure that the smooth of fabric on side;Relax and play silk blend Yarn makees weft yarn use, to reduce the production difficulty of fabric;
Fabric specification is as follows:Fabric breadth 170cm, fabric is through close 405/10cm, 350/10cm of fabric filling density, porter 187 Tooth/10cm, upper machine reed width 184.4cm, one meter through 1.13 meters long, comprehensive number of pages page 10, ground tissue penetrates number 2 and enters, and Selvage Stitch penetrates Number 2 enters, and Selvage Stitch is plain weave, and ground is organized as figured texture weave;
Warp thread is tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn of 11.7tex, and blending ratio 50/50, color is white to add, and total quantity of warps is 6896, side Yarn is identical with body warp, 96, left side yarn, 140, right edge yarn;
The combed cotton that weft yarn is 14.6tex/relax elater mixed yarn, blending ratio relax elater 30 for combed cotton 70/, and yarn color is orchid Color;
(2) winder:Using 1332M type bobbin-winding machine rewindings, warp thread is tencel/silk/cotton blended yarn of 11.7tex, and yarn count is thinner, single thread It is strongly relatively low, during winder with low velocity, small tension receiving coil, protect elasticity as basic technology principle;The combed cotton that weft yarn is 14.6tex/relax Elater mixed yarn, the elater that relaxes easily play electrostatic, and speed is also unsuitable fast, and winder speed control is in 500m/min, additional tension packing ring Weight is 7.4 grams;
Weft yarn easily plays electrostatic, and winder yarn road is unobstructed, prevents yarn from fluffing, and fabric is zephyr, and yarn qualities will be got well, broken end After use hand-held splicer connector;Winder Clearing Processing is:Cotton knot+300%, short slub+140%*1.5cm, long slubbing+ 50%*10cm, long details -30%*30cm;
(3) whole slurry combined production process:The production of HFZJ800 types sizing warper is selected, piece yarn tension is uniform in order to control, it is desirable to which bobbin is big It is small the same;Since whole slurry speed is slow, it is necessary to carry out the setting of additional tension, bobbin cradle is divided into three sections from front to back, leading portion 8 grams of additional tension, 7 grams of stage casing, 6 grams of back segment;The bright and clean of yarn road is kept during whole slurry, reduces the generation of filoplume;
The total quantity of warps of full width fabric is 6896, and selvedge yarn is identical with body warp, and full width warp thread is divided into 9 strands, wherein first twists With last hank, 767 are often twisted, second twists to the 8th strand, often twists 766;The upper machine reed width of fabric is 184.4cm, is often twisted flat Equal width is 20.5cm;
Formula of size:Converted starch 70%, solid propenoic acid class slurry 30%;The solid content control of slurries 9%, slurries it is viscous Degree control was at 7-8 seconds;
Sizing speed:Sizing speed control is between 45m/min-50m/min;
Low temperature starching:Slurry groove temperature is controlled at 40 DEG C, and stock tank is no longer heat up, and slurry groove temperature is controlled by mixing cirtern;
Mud-jacking technology:Using mud-jacking technology light after preceding weight, preceding squeezing roller pressure control is in 0.44MPa, post jacking roller pressure control For system in 0.24MPa, it is 40cm that expansion reed, which controls the soaking paste width often twisted, and the actual pressure of preceding squeezing roller is at 176 kilograms, post jacking The actual pressure of roller is at 96 kilograms;
The Steam pressure control of drying cylinder is in 0.30MPa, and 13%, the regain of cotton fiber is 8.5% for the regain of tencel, Blending ratio is 50/50, and sized warp moisture regain is controlled 8%;
(4) gait:Side yarn wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, body warp gait order is:3-10 pages comprehensive along wearing;
(5) weft twisting:, it is necessary to more than when workshop placement 48 is small after weft yarn winder, then reuse;
(6) weave:GA718 type air-jet looms are selected to weave, loom rotating speed is 520r/min;
Opening time:The thread count of fabric is bigger, and shed open is not easy clearly, to select early opening process, opening time during weaving For 290 °.Opening time is early, and shed open is easily clear, favourable to beating up.
Mixed latitude technique:Weft yarn only has a kind of color, to prevent cloth cover from producing aberration, replaces wefting insertion using two weft accumulators;
Weft insertion technique:
Weft yarn beginning flying angle:The upper machine reed width of fabric is bigger, in the left side selvedge of fabric, does not produce the premise of three jump faults Under, weft yarn beginning flying angle is advisable with early;Weft yarn beginning flying angle is set as 85 °, and weft yarn beginning flying angle is early, it is ensured that weft yarn has foot It is enough flight time, favourable to the pressure and Stoppage of reduction jet;
Weft yarn angle of arrival is controlled between 225 ° -235 °, and angle of arrival suitably reduces whiff pressure earlier than 225 °, and angle of arrival is later than 235 °, suitably increase whiff pressure;
Whiff pressure:Main jet whiff pressure is controlled between 0.26Mpa-0.28Mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying control is in 0.30Mpa- Between 0.33Mpa, the weft yarn angle of arrival that actual pressure is shown according to board adjusts;
Filling Insertion Time is:Keep off 70 ° of yarn pin release time, main jet jet time is 60 ° -160 °, and using 8 groups of auxiliary sprays, first group auxiliary Spray jet time be 60 ° -120 °, second group it is auxiliary spray jet time be 78 ° -138 °, the 3rd group it is auxiliary spray jet time for 96 ° - 156 °, the 4th group of auxiliary spray jet time is 114 ° -174 °, and the 5th group of auxiliary spray jet time is 132 ° -192 °, the 6th group of auxiliary spray spray The gas time be 150 ° -210 °, the 7th group it is auxiliary spray jet time be 170 ° -230 °, the 8th group it is auxiliary spray jet time for 190 ° - 290°;
Gentle breeze:Gentle breeze pressure will determine that gentle breeze pressure is determined as between 0.09MPa-0.10MPa, true according to the elasticity of yarn When guarantor's weft yarn is not skidded off from main burner, gentle breeze pressure is advisable with small;
Back beam height:This pick count is higher, but the interleaving degress of fabric and little, and weft yarn is relatively easily urgent, therefore Using the alto back rest, shed open is easily clear, favourable to wefting insertion;
Weft yarn discharges length:The elastic force for bullet silk fabrics of relaxing is moderate, weft yarn release length control+2-3cm on the outside of waste selvage yarn;
Tencel relax play silk face fabric to be dispatched from the factory in the form of reel package;
Workshop moisture temperature:Elater appearance of relaxing is easy to produce static electricity, therefore the humiture in workshop will be controlled strictly, and workshop temperature is controlled 22 Between DEG C -28 DEG C, relative humidity is controlled between 70%-75%.
2. tencel according to claim 1, which relaxes, plays the production technology of silk face fabric, it is characterised in that:Trimmed size is as follows: Fabric width 146cm, finished product is through close 472/10cm, 354/10cm of finished product filling density, the width shrinkage 14.1% of fabric, fabric Long shrinkage 1%, fabric through crimp 11.5%, the latitude crimp 7.8% of fabric.
CN201711342315.4A 2017-12-14 2017-12-14 A kind of tencel, which relaxes, plays the production technology of silk face fabric Pending CN107974752A (en)

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CN110079915A (en) * 2019-05-28 2019-08-02 江苏悦达棉纺有限公司 Easypro elater blended woven fabric fabric and its production technology
CN113122993A (en) * 2021-05-26 2021-07-16 重庆财衡巨纺织有限公司 Shu stretch yarn mint fiber lyocell antibacterial mosquito-proof woven fabric and production process thereof
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CN109468836A (en) * 2018-10-16 2019-03-15 江苏联发纺织股份有限公司 A kind of production method of the high conformal color-woven fabric of pure cotton
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CN113122993A (en) * 2021-05-26 2021-07-16 重庆财衡巨纺织有限公司 Shu stretch yarn mint fiber lyocell antibacterial mosquito-proof woven fabric and production process thereof
CN113122995A (en) * 2021-05-26 2021-07-16 重庆财衡巨纺织有限公司 Lyocell-based fabric and production process

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Application publication date: 20180501