CN107475856A - A kind of design and its production technology of star rain crepe fabric - Google Patents

A kind of design and its production technology of star rain crepe fabric Download PDF

Info

Publication number
CN107475856A
CN107475856A CN201710804928.9A CN201710804928A CN107475856A CN 107475856 A CN107475856 A CN 107475856A CN 201710804928 A CN201710804928 A CN 201710804928A CN 107475856 A CN107475856 A CN 107475856A
Authority
CN
China
Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
warp
height
tension
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
CN201710804928.9A
Other languages
Chinese (zh)
Other versions
CN107475856B (en
Inventor
瞿建新
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Original Assignee
Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College filed Critical Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Priority to CN201710804928.9A priority Critical patent/CN107475856B/en
Publication of CN107475856A publication Critical patent/CN107475856A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CN107475856B publication Critical patent/CN107475856B/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11Starch or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of production technology of star rain crepe fabric, comprise the following steps:Winder --- --- weave warping by sizing --- gaiting ---.The woven star rain crepe fabric of the present invention need not carry out heavy twist processing, thus production cost to yarn, far below common cotton crepe;Heavy yarn when knitting processed to reduce, by reducing stroke of harness frames, harness threading height is reduced, increases warp tension, improved a series of measures such as back beam height and warp stop frame height, solve the problems, such as heavy yarn;In order to reduce weft crackiness, drive to do fault, by changing warp end break parking stall, the measure such as crawl when forbidding driving, it is therefore prevented that weft crackiness, drive to do the generation of fault;By improving cloth supporting plate height, reverse side yarn hook fault is avoided.By above series of technique, technical measures, ensured it is woven be smoothed out, achieve preferable economic benefit for enterprise.

Description

A kind of design and its production technology of star rain crepe fabric
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric knitting field, and in particular to a kind of design and its production technology of star rain crepe fabric.
Background technology
Traditional cotton crepe, all it is to utilize strong twisted yarn and yarn with different, the yarn of different material, produces different shrinkages, Cloth cover is set to crease.Star rain crepe fabric, it is to utilize common filling yarn, identical raw material, identical yarn different from traditional cotton crepe Branch, the pegging plan of fabric is plain weave, by changing order of gaiting, filling yarn is produced different interleaving degrees in different places Number, cause shrinkage different, under fabric after machine, lose the stretching of tension force, the filling yarn more than interleaving degress shrinks, and interleaving degress is few Yarn crease, formed cotton crepe.The cotton crepe being made into, by final finishing, cloth cover is formed just as the star all over the sky at sunny night, because And it is referred to as star rain crape.The cloth style of star rain crape is similar to other cotton crepes, but due to reducing the manufacturing procedure of strong twisted yarn, makes The cost of fabric is declined to a great extent, and preferable economic benefit is obtained for enterprise.Star rain crepe shell fabric is domestic at present is mainly used as home textile Fabric, underwear, the star rain crape of Japan is sold to, is mainly used as kimonos.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention:In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the invention provides a kind of design of star rain crepe fabric and its Production technology.
Technical scheme:A kind of design of star rain crepe fabric, the design specification of the fabric are:Fabric breadth 251cm, fabric Enter through close 327/10cm, 224/10cm of fabric filling density, metric system porter 104, upper machine reed width 262cm, ground tissue per reed 3, side Tissue enters total quantity of warps 8158 per reed 4, and filling density gear is 38T, supports two teeth every time;
Weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarns;Warp thread has two kinds:A represents 18tex bleached yarns, and B represents the deep blue yarns of 18tex, and color is through row It is classified as:(1A, 1B, 2A) * 180;(1A, 3B, 1A, 2B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 56, (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 72;(1A, 3B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 97;(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 16; (1A, 3B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 56;(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 76;(1A, 3B, 3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) * 56;(1B, 2A) * 233;(3A, 1B) * 376;In full width fabric, 3803, A yarns, 4307, B yarns, 48, side yarn, always Through radical 8158.
A kind of production technology of star rain crepe fabric, comprises the following steps:
(1) winder
From 1332M type bobbin-winding machines, filling yarn is 18tex yarns, and winder speed is 575m/min, winder additional tension The weight of packing ring is 11 grams, and hand held air splicer joint is used after broken end;
(2) warping
Using SGA211 type high speed beam warpers, speed of beaming is controlled in 500m/min, is configured with twin columns disc type Power apparatus, by changing angle of contact of the yarn to tension pulley cylinder, to adjust the size of additional tension, whole warping additional tension At most it is divided into 11 gears;During 18tex cotton yarn warpings, additional tension configuration is divided into 4 sections, from front to back tension force set gradually for 7 grades, 6 grades, 5 grades, 4 grades, to improve the uniform of piece yarn tension, use collective's creeling;
The capacity of bobbin cradle is 720;Full width total quantity of warps is 8158, wherein 18tex bleached yarns 3803,18tex Dark blue dyed yarn 4307,48, side yarn, and bleached yarn warping together;Bleached yarn 3803+48, is made into 6 axles, is 641* with axle 1+642*5, dark blue dyed yarn 4307, is made into 6 axles, is 717*1+718*5 with axle;
(3) sizing
From the unit warp sizing machine of ASG365 types two, heavy technique after light before mud-jacking technology use, preceding squeezing roller pressure control In 7KN, post jacking roller pressure is controlled in 16KN;Formula of size is as follows:Converted starch 70%, AS-02 slurries 30%, slurry viscosity 10-11S;The rate of sizing is 10%, sizing speed is 50-55m/min, slurry groove temperature control exists in 98 DEG C, sized warp moisture regain control 7.0%th, after waxing 0.2%;
(4) gait
Comprehensive using page 6, order of gaiting is 1,3,5,2,4,6,1,2,3,4,5,6, and side yarn is through 1-2 pages to sum up;Pegging plan For plain weave, in the place that order is 1,3,5,2,4,6 of gaiting, weft rib weave is formed, interleaving degress is few;Order of gaiting for 1, 2nd, 3,4,5,6 place, forms plain weave, and interleaving degress is relatively more;
(5) weave
From the GA788-300 type rapier looms system of knitting, loom rotating speed is 150r/min;
Warp end break parking stall:Warp end break parking stall is adjusted to 75 °, effectively avoids driving to do fault;After warp end break It must assure that reed to the distance of fell in more than 2.5cm;
Using early opening, opening time is 280 °, clearly favourable to shed open;
When this fabric produces, left side selvedge, for shed open effective depth in 5-5.5cm, bringer sword enters shed open;Right side cloth Side, shed open effective depth enter shed open in 4-4.5cm or so;
Weft yarn will use two weft selecting rods, and weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarns, and the yarn between two bobbins, color has difference It is different, two weft accumulators are used, alternately wefting insertion, to prevent barriness, moreover it is possible to reduce Stoppage;
Stroke of harness frames:When star rain crepe fabric produces, fabric tissue is that latitude galassing and plain weave are alternately present, the weave shrinkage of warp thread Different, star rain crepe fabric requires to produce using single shaft again, the small warp thread of weave shrinkage, easily produces heavy yarn, causes warp-wise mistakenly stop Car, when working out technique, to take measures, reduce the elongation of warp thread, so as to reduce the sinking of warp thread, the technique for reducing warp thread elongation Measure is:Reduce stroke of harness frames, by stroke of harness frames regulating block, two lattice are lowered compared with conventional variety;
Heald frame height:Because stroke of harness frames is small, during shed open full gate, it is ensured that the distance of lower layer warp yarns to slay keeps 1-2mm It is constant, as standard, the height of heald frame is adjusted, therefore the height of heald frame is lower than conventional variety;
Back beam height:Back beam height is 50mm, and conventional variety, when producing plain cloth, the back beam height used is generally 70mm, when this fabric produces, using beam process after height, the tension difference of levels warp thread is big, when knitting processed, top line flexing Greatly, to being creased advantageously after machine under fabric;
Warp stop frame height:The height of conventional warp stop frame is:When it is comprehensive usually, company of the lead rod in the back rest and heddle eyelet in warp stop frame On line, when this fabric produces, warp stop frame highly wants more higher, and warp stop frame is higher, can reduce the bounce of menopause tablet, reduces warp-wise Mistakenly stop car;
The height of cloth supporting plate:When fabrics in general produces, the height of cloth supporting plate is on the line of fell and brest beams;This fabric is given birth to During production, because heald frame height is less than conventional variety, part board can produce reverse side yarn hook fault, in process of production, by Tobe The height of plate, 1-2mm is heightened than conventional variety, to prevent fabric backing from producing yarn hook;The height of cloth supporting plate also should not be high again, support Fabric swatch is high, and when sword head enters shed open, sword head position can easily produce star and jump defect in the latter half of shed open, the reverse side of fabric partially Point;Therefore during the height of adjustment cloth supporting plate, it must examine, yarn hook can neither be produced, star can not be produced again and jump fault;
Warp tension:Because the small warp thread of shrinkage easily sinks, therefore warp tension wants control bigger than normal, the big warp of shrinkage Yarn, the tension force of most of warp thread is undertaken, have elongation, on the one hand reduce the sinking of the small warp thread of shrinkage, on the other hand, lost After removing tension force stretching, contraction is also big, favourable to fabric crepe;On the tension weight hammer stem of loom both sides, each one 5kg's of configuration Tension weight, the elastic force of the tension spring of let-off mechanism want control bigger than normal;
Strengthen operational administrative, it is desirable to which driving is unable to crawl, and crawl is also easy to produce driving and does fault;Cloth beam spring can not press It is too tight, otherwise easily produce weft crackiness fault.
As optimization:The trimmed size of the fabric:Fabric width 235.5cm, finished product is through close 346/10cm, finished product latitude Close 228/10cm, through crimp 7.4%, latitude crimp 4.2%, width shrinkage 6.2% is arranged, arranges long shrinkage 1.8%.
Beneficial effect:The style and features of the woven star rain crepe fabric of the present invention are similar to common cotton crepe, but the mechanism creased Different from common cotton crepe, due in production process, it is not necessary to heavy twist processing is carried out to yarn, thus star rain crepe fabric is produced into This, is far below common cotton crepe, but due to using knitting system of single shaft, and the interleaving degress difference of yarn, the shrinkage of yarn is different, star Rain crepe fabric in process of production, it is larger to be very easy to fault, the production difficulties such as generation heavy yarn, weft crackiness, reverse side yarn hook;Cause This, heavy yarn when (1) knits processed to reduce, by reducing stroke of harness frames, reduces harness threading height, warp tension is increased, after raising The a series of measures such as depth of beam and warp stop frame height, solves the problems, such as heavy yarn;(2) in order to reduce weft crackiness, drive to do fault, lead to Change warp end break parking stall is crossed, the measure such as crawl when forbidding driving, it is therefore prevented that weft crackiness, drive to do the generation of fault;(3) By improving cloth supporting plate height, reverse side yarn hook fault is avoided.By above series of technique, technical measures, weaving has been ensured Be smoothed out, achieve preferable economic benefit for enterprise.
Embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiment of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this area Personnel can be better understood from advantages and features of the invention, so as to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only part of the embodiment of the present invention, rather than whole embodiments, based on the present invention In embodiment, the every other implementation that those of ordinary skill in the art are obtained on the premise of creative work is not made Example, belongs to the scope of protection of the invention.
Specific embodiment
1st, the design of fabric
Fabric Design main points:(1) thread count.The thread count of fabric can not be big, and gap, fabric are left between yarn After losing tension force, filling yarn can just have larger shrink space, and the effect of creasing of fabric just can be obvious;(2) interleaving degree Number.The pegging plan of fabric is plain weave, by changing order of gaiting, the interleaving degress through weft yarn is changed, under fabric after machine Crease.This fabric is comprehensive using page 6, and order of gaiting is 1,3,5,2,4,6,1,2,3,4,5,6, because pegging plan is plain weave, is being worn Comprehensive order is 1,3,5,2,4,6 place, forms weft rib weave, and interleaving degress is few;It is 1,2,3,4,5,6 in order of gaiting Place, forms plain weave, and interleaving degress is relatively more;(3) heald frame number.Change the use number of heald frame, so that it may change rising for fabric Crape effect.Heald frame is using less, and longitude and latitude interleaving degress difference is small, and crease DeGrain;Heald frame uses more, interleaving degress difference Greatly, crease positive effect, but fabric can seem slack and undisciplined, coarse.Compare by test weaving repeatedly, it is determined that using the heald frames of page 6, effect of creasing Fruit is good, and cloth cover is finer and smoother;(4) difficulty of weaving.With the increase using heald frame number, the difference of the weave shrinkage of warp thread can increase, The sinking of warp thread is more serious when knitting processed, and fast increase can be interrogated by knitting difficulty processed, comprehensive to be advisable no more than page 8 during production.
The design specification of fabric is:
Fabric breadth 251cm, fabric is through close 327/10cm, 224/10cm of fabric filling density, metric system porter 104, upper machine Reed width 262cm, ground tissue enter per reed 3, and Selvage Stitch enters total quantity of warps 8158 per reed 4, and filling density gear is 38T, support two teeth every time.
Weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarns.Warp thread has two kinds, and A represents 18tex bleached yarns, and B represents the deep blue yarns of 18tex, and color is through row It is classified as:(1A, 1B, 2A) * 180;(1A, 3B, 1A, 2B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 56, (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 72;(1A, 3B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 97;(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 16; (1A, 3B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 56;(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 76;(1A, 3B, 3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) * 56;(1B, 2A) * 233;(3A, 1B) * 376.In full width fabric, 3803, A yarns, 4307, B yarns, 48, side yarn, always Through radical 8158.
2nd, the production essentials of fabric
(1) winder
From 1332M type bobbin-winding machines.Filling yarn is 18tex yarns, belongs to medium count yarn, strength is of a relatively high, and winder makes With medium speed, moderate tension technique.Winder speed is 575m/min, and winder speed should not be high again, and winder speed is high, secondary hair Plumage can increase, and influence the production of later process.The weight of winder additional tension packing ring is 11 grams.In order to ensure the quality of fabric, Hand held air splicer joint is used after broken end.
(2) warping
Using SGA211 type high speed beam warpers, the capacity of bobbin cradle is 720.Full width total quantity of warps is 8158, Wherein 18tex bleached yarns 3803, the dark blue dyed yarns of 18tex 4307,48, side yarn, and bleached yarn warping together.Bleached yarn 3803+48,6 axles are made into, are 641*1+642*5 with axle, dark blue dyed yarn 4307, are made into 6 axles, are 717*1+718* with axle 5。
Speed of beaming is controlled in 500m/min or so.Warping is unsuitable using medium speed, moderate tension technique, speed of beaming Height, speed of beaming is fast, and tension fluctuation is big, and piece yarn tension is difficult to control, and the sinking of warp thread can be caused when knitting processed, influences the production of fabric Amount and quality;Speed of beaming is fast simultaneously, and Yarn filoplume can increase, and the production to later process has a negative impact.
SGA211 type high speed beam warpers, twin columns cymbals is configured, tension pulley is justified by changing yarn The angle of contact of post, to adjust the size of additional tension, whole warping additional tension is at most divided into 11 gears.18tex cotton yarn warpings When, additional tension configuration is divided into 4 sections, and tension force is set gradually as 7 grades, 6 grades, 5 grades, 4 grades from front to back.To improve piece yarn tension Uniformly, using collective's creeling.
(3) sizing
From the unit warp sizing machine of ASG365 types two.
Formula of size:Converted starch 70%, AS-02 slurries 30%, slurry viscosity 10-11S.
Warp thread is the general comb yarns of 18tex, and thread count is small, general to sizing requirement, according to the similar principle to mix, slurry choosing With full starch slurry, both environmental protection was with economy.
AS-02 slurries, it is a kind of high-performance starch slurry, serous coat pliability is good, and it is few to fall slurry during dividing sinker, is added in starch slurry AS-02 slurries, serous coat tear is few, favourable to the wearability of raising sizing.
The technique of light rear weight before mud-jacking technology use.The general comb yarn hair plumages of 18tex are more, and thread count is smaller, to sizing Enhancing it is less demanding, the main purpose of sizing is filoplume is fitted perfectly.The mud-jacking technology of preceding light rear weight is coated to again, is gently impregnated with, right Sizing hairiness is submissive, it is favourable to improve the wearability of yarn.Preceding squeezing roller pressure control exists in 7KN, the control of post jacking roller pressure 16KN。
The rate of sizing 10%.The starch slurry rate of sizing is general all higher, during this fabric sizing, primarily to filoplume fits perfectly, on Slurry rate need not be too high.The rate of sizing is high, can make coated thickening, leasing difficulty.Leasing broken end is added, while can also increase sizing Cost.
Sizing speed 50-55m/min.Sizing speed is unsuitable high, and sizing speed is fast, and leasing resistance is big, easily breaks during dividing sinker Head, while serous coat is easily torn, and can reduce the wearability of sizing.
Slurry groove temperature is controlled at 98 DEG C.Starch slurry will use High Temperature Sizing, and slurry groove temperature is low, and slurry viscosity is big, serous coat meeting It is thickening.
7.0%, regain should not be big again for sized warp moisture regain control, and after sizing, moisture content that yarn can be in absorption air returns Damp rate can increased.
After waxing 0.2%.After waxing makes sizing smooth, and the fluffing to reduction warp thread is favourable.
(4) gait
Comprehensive using page 6, order of gaiting is 1,3,5,2,4,6,1,2,3,4,5,6, and side yarn is through 1-2 pages to sum up.
(5) weave
This fabric door breadth, therefore the GA788-300 type rapier looms system of knitting is selected, loom rotating speed is 150r/min.
1. warp end break parking stall:When common fabric produces, after warp end break, caused by loom stop position is located at 295 ° or so In comprehensive prosposition, spinner finds broken end, processing is breaked end, gaited, it is all more convenient to plug in reed.The filling density of star rain crepe fabric is smaller, In process of production, easily produce and drive to do fault, we adjust warp end break parking stall to 75 °, so can effectively avoided out Car does fault.Analysis drives to do fault Producing reason:During weaving, beating-up mechanism is inertial beating-up, the conventional latitude of parking stall first When knitting processed, from the beating of 295 ° to 360 ° of parking stall, loom has only turned over 65 °, and loom is also without maximum speed is reached, and beat up inertia It is smaller, formed and drive to do fault.After warp end break parking stall is adjusted to 75 °, when the first latitude knits processed, loom is beaten by 75 ° to 360 ° Latitude, loom have turned over 285 °, have substantially achieved normal speed, and beating inertia is sufficiently large, effectively reduces the generation for driving to do. Caused by loom stop position also should not be early again.Must assure that after warp end break reed to the distance of fell in more than 2.5cm because this away from From small, spinner is not easy to differentiate the position of denting.After warp on loom broken end parking stall changes, when handling warp end break, keep off a car The operation difficulty of work can increase, and this is also the reason for general kind is without using this parking stall.
2. opening time.Opening time is 280 °, and when star rain crepe fabric knits processed, due to the difference of crimp, part warp thread holds Easily sink, shed open is not easy clearly, clearly favourable to shed open using early opening.
3. enter the sword time.Enter the selected of sword time, two principles of GPRS:First, the bringer sword side of loom, cloth cover are easy When producing star and jump fault, therefore producing, the sword time of entering of bringer side will be later than and connect latitude sword side;Second, enter morning sword time, can wefting insertion Time it is more, favourable to wefting insertion, picking motion is not easy to wear, but enter the sword time morning, easily produce star jump fault.This fabric is given birth to During production, left side selvedge, for shed open effective depth in 5-5.5cm, bringer sword enters shed open;Right side selvedge, shed open effective depth exist 4-4.5cm left and right enters shed open.Sword head enters shed open effective depth during shed open, and the influence to production is very big, effective depth It is small, easily produce star and jump fault, side yarn breakage can be produced when serious;Effective depth is big, and sword head enters shed open late, it is necessary to increase sword The speed of service of head sword belt reduces speed.Increase sword head running speed, the increase of machine material loss, easily cause mechanical breakdown;Drop Low speed, influences yield.
4. weft yarn will use two weft selecting rods.Weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarns, and the yarn between two bobbins, color has Difference, two weft accumulators are used, alternately wefting insertion, to prevent barriness.Broadwise can also be reduced using two weft accumulators Stop platform.During one weft accumulator production, weft accumulator needs frequent starting, and the yarn on weft accumulator yarn storage drum is pulled sometimes, weft accumulator Have little time to start, will result in Stoppage.
5. stroke of harness frames.When star rain crepe fabric produces, fabric tissue is that latitude galassing and plain weave are alternately present, the crimp of warp thread Rate is different, and star rain crepe fabric requires to produce using single shaft again, the small warp thread of weave shrinkage, easily produces heavy yarn, causes warp-wise to miss Parking.When working out technique, to take measures, reduce the elongation of warp thread, so as to reduce the sinking of warp thread.Reduce the work of warp thread elongation One of skill measure is:Reduce stroke of harness frames, by stroke of harness frames regulating block, two lattice are lowered compared with conventional variety.
6. heald frame height.Because stroke of harness frames is small, during shed open full gate, it is ensured that the distance of lower layer warp yarns to slay keeps 1- 2mm is constant, as standard, adjusts the height of heald frame.Therefore the height of heald frame is lower than conventional variety.
7. back beam height.Back beam height is 50mm, and conventional variety, when producing plain cloth, the back beam height used is general For 70mm, when this fabric produces, using beam process after height, the tension difference of levels warp thread is big, when knitting processed, top line flexing Greatly, to being creased advantageously after machine under fabric.
8. warp stop frame height.The height of conventional warp stop frame is:When it is comprehensive usually, lead rod is in the back rest and heddle eyelet in warp stop frame On line.When this fabric produces, warp stop frame highly wants more higher, and warp stop frame is higher, can reduce the bounce of menopause tablet, reduces warp To mistakenly stop car.
9. the height of cloth supporting plate.When fabrics in general produces, the height of cloth supporting plate is on the line of fell and brest beams.This fabric During production, because heald frame height is less than conventional variety, part board can produce reverse side yarn hook fault, in process of production, will hold in the palm The height of fabric swatch, 1-2mm is heightened than conventional variety, to prevent fabric backing from producing yarn hook.The height of cloth supporting plate also should not be high again, Cloth supporting plate is high, and when sword head enters shed open, sword head position can easily produce star and jump defect in the latter half of shed open, the reverse side of fabric partially Point.Therefore during the height of adjustment cloth supporting plate, it must examine, yarn hook can neither be produced, star can not be produced again and jump fault.
10. warp tension.Because the small warp thread of shrinkage easily sinks, therefore warp tension wants control bigger than normal, and shrinkage is big Warp thread, the tension force of most of warp thread is undertaken, have elongation, on the one hand reduce the sinking of the small warp thread of shrinkage, on the other hand, After losing tension force stretching, contraction is also big, favourable to fabric crepe.On the tension weight hammer stem of loom both sides, a 5kg is respectively configured Tension weight, the elastic force of the tension spring of let-off mechanism wants control bigger than normal.
11. strengthen operational administrative, it is desirable to which driving is unable to crawl, and crawl is also easy to produce driving and does fault;Cloth beam spring can not Press too tight, otherwise easily produce weft crackiness fault.
3rd, the trimmed size of fabric:
Fabric width 235.5cm, finished product is through close 346/10cm, 228/10cm of finished product filling density, through crimp 7.4%, latitude Crimp 4.2%, width shrinkage 6.2% is arranged, arranges long shrinkage 1.8%.
The style and features of the woven star rain crepe fabric of the present invention are similar to common cotton crepe, but the mechanism creased is different from commonly Cotton crepe, due in production process, it is not necessary to heavy twist processing, thus the production cost of star rain crepe fabric are carried out to yarn, is far below Common cotton crepe, but due to using the single shaft system of knitting, and the interleaving degress of yarn is different, the shrinkage of yarn is different, star rain crepe fabric In process of production, it is larger that fault, the production difficulties such as generation heavy yarn, weft crackiness, reverse side yarn hook are very easy to;Therefore, (1) in order to Heavy yarn when knitting processed is reduced, by reducing stroke of harness frames, harness threading height is reduced, increases warp tension, improve back beam height and stop Through a series of measures such as frame height, solves the problems, such as heavy yarn;(2) in order to reduce weft crackiness, drive to do fault, by changing warp thread The measures such as broken end parking stall, crawl when forbidding driving, it is therefore prevented that weft crackiness, drive to do the generation of fault;(3) held in the palm by improving Fabric swatch height, avoids reverse side yarn hook fault.By above series of technique, technical measures, ensured it is woven be smoothed out, Preferable economic benefit is achieved for enterprise.

Claims (3)

  1. A kind of 1. design of star rain crepe fabric, it is characterised in that:The design specification of the fabric is:Fabric breadth 251cm, fabric Enter through close 327/10cm, 224/10cm of fabric filling density, metric system porter 104, upper machine reed width 262cm, ground tissue per reed 3, side Tissue enters total quantity of warps 8158 per reed 4, and filling density gear is 38T, supports two teeth every time;
    Weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarns;Warp thread has two kinds:A expression 18tex bleached yarns, the B expression deep blue yarns of 18tex, color are arranged For:(1A, 1B, 2A) * 180;(1A, 3B, 1A, 2B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 56, (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 72;(1A, 3B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 97;(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 16;(1A, 3B);(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 3B) * 56;(3A, 1B, 1A, 3B);(1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) * 76;(1A, 3B, 3A, 1B, 1A, 3B)*56;(1B, 2A) * 233;(3A, 1B) * 376;In full width fabric, 3803, A yarns, 4307, B yarns, 48, side yarn, always through root Number 8158.
  2. A kind of 2. production technology of star rain crepe fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:Comprise the following steps:
    (1) winder
    From 1332M type bobbin-winding machines, filling yarn is 18tex yarns, and winder speed is 575m/min, winder additional tension packing ring Weight be 11 grams, hand held air splicer joint is used after broken end;
    (2) warping
    Using SGA211 type high speed beam warpers, speed of beaming is controlled in 500m/min, is configured with twin columns disc type tension force dress Put, by changing angle of contact of the yarn to tension pulley cylinder, to adjust the size of additional tension, whole warping additional tension is most It is divided into 11 gears;During 18tex cotton yarn warpings, additional tension configuration is divided into 4 sections, from front to back tension force set gradually for 7 grades, 6 grades, 5 grades, 4 grades, to improve the uniform of piece yarn tension, use collective's creeling;
    The capacity of bobbin cradle is 720;Full width total quantity of warps is 8158, wherein 18tex bleached yarns 3803, and 18tex is dark blue Dyed yarn 4307,48, side yarn, and bleached yarn warping together;Bleached yarn 3803+48, is made into 6 axles, is 641*1+ with axle 642*5, dark blue dyed yarn 4307, is made into 6 axles, is 717*1+718*5 with axle;
    (3) sizing
    From the unit warp sizing machine of ASG365 types two, heavy technique after light before mud-jacking technology use, preceding squeezing roller pressure control exists 7KN, post jacking roller pressure are controlled in 16KN;Formula of size is as follows:Converted starch 70%, AS-02 slurries 30%, slurry viscosity 10-11S;The rate of sizing is 10%, sizing speed is 50-55m/min, slurry groove temperature control exists in 98 DEG C, sized warp moisture regain control 7.0%th, after waxing 0.2%;
    (4) gait
    Comprehensive using page 6, order of gaiting is 1,3,5,2,4,6,1,2,3,4,5,6, and side yarn is through 1-2 pages to sum up;Pegging plan is flat Line, in the place that order is 1,3,5,2,4,6 of gaiting, weft rib weave is formed, interleaving degress is few;Order of gaiting for 1,2,3, 4th, 5,6 place, forms plain weave, and interleaving degress is relatively more;
    (5) weave
    From the GA788-300 type rapier looms system of knitting, loom rotating speed is 150r/min;
    Warp end break parking stall:Warp end break parking stall is adjusted to 75 °, effectively avoids driving to do fault;It is necessary after warp end break Ensure reed to the distance of fell in more than 2.5cm;
    Using early opening, opening time is 280 °, clearly favourable to shed open;
    When this fabric produces, left side selvedge, for shed open effective depth in 5-5.5cm, bringer sword enters shed open;Right side selvedge, shuttle Mouth effective depth enters shed open in 4-4.5cm or so;
    Weft yarn will use two weft selecting rods, and weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarns, and the yarn between two bobbins, color can be variant, Use two weft accumulators, alternating wefting insertion, to prevent barriness, moreover it is possible to reduce Stoppage;
    Stroke of harness frames:When star rain crepe fabric produces, fabric tissue is that latitude galassing and plain weave are alternately present, and the weave shrinkage of warp thread differs Sample, star rain crepe fabric require to produce using single shaft again, the small warp thread of weave shrinkage, easily produce heavy yarn, cause warp-wise mistakenly stop car, make When ordering technique, to take measures, reduce the elongation of warp thread, so as to reduce the sinking of warp thread, reduce the technological measure of warp thread elongation It is:Reduce stroke of harness frames, by stroke of harness frames regulating block, two lattice are lowered compared with conventional variety;
    Heald frame height:Because stroke of harness frames is small, during shed open full gate, it is ensured that the distance of lower layer warp yarns to slay keeps 1-2mm constant, As standard, the height of heald frame is adjusted, therefore the height of heald frame is lower than conventional variety;
    Back beam height:Back beam height is 50mm, and conventional variety, when producing plain cloth, the back beam height used is generally 70mm, When this fabric produces, using beam process after height, the tension difference of levels warp thread is big, and when knitting processed, top line flexing is big, to knitting Creased advantageously after machine under thing;
    Warp stop frame height:The height of conventional warp stop frame is:When it is comprehensive usually, lead rod is in the back rest and the line of heddle eyelet in warp stop frame On, when this fabric produces, warp stop frame highly wants more higher, and warp stop frame is higher, can reduce the bounce of menopause tablet, reduces warp-wise and misses Parking;
    The height of cloth supporting plate:When fabrics in general produces, the height of cloth supporting plate is on the line of fell and brest beams;This fabric produces When, because heald frame height is less than conventional variety, part board can produce reverse side yarn hook fault, in process of production, by cloth supporting plate Height, heighten 1-2mm than conventional variety, with prevent fabric backing produce yarn hook;The height of cloth supporting plate also should not be high again, Tobe Plate is high, and when sword head enters shed open, sword head position can easily produce star and jump fault in the latter half of shed open, the reverse side of fabric partially; Therefore during the height of adjustment cloth supporting plate, it must examine, yarn hook can neither be produced, star can not be produced again and jump fault;
    Warp tension:Because the small warp thread of shrinkage easily sinks, therefore warp tension wants control bigger than normal, the big warp thread of shrinkage, holds The tension force of most of warp thread is carried on a shoulder pole, has elongation, on the one hand reduces the sinking of the small warp thread of shrinkage, on the other hand, is opened losing After power stretching, contraction is also big, favourable to fabric crepe;On the tension weight hammer stem of loom both sides, 5kg tension force is respectively configured Weight, the elastic force of the tension spring of let-off mechanism want control bigger than normal;
    Strengthen operational administrative, it is desirable to which driving is unable to crawl, and crawl is also easy to produce driving and does fault;Cloth beam spring can not press too Tightly, weft crackiness fault is otherwise easily produced.
  3. 3. the production technology of star rain crepe fabric according to claim 2, it is characterised in that:The trimmed size of the fabric: Fabric width 235.5cm, finished product is through close 346/10cm, 228/10cm of finished product filling density, through crimp 7.4%, latitude crimp 4.2%, width shrinkage 6.2% is arranged, arranges long shrinkage 1.8%.
CN201710804928.9A 2017-09-08 2017-09-08 Design and production process of star rain crepe fabric Active CN107475856B (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201710804928.9A CN107475856B (en) 2017-09-08 2017-09-08 Design and production process of star rain crepe fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201710804928.9A CN107475856B (en) 2017-09-08 2017-09-08 Design and production process of star rain crepe fabric

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN107475856A true CN107475856A (en) 2017-12-15
CN107475856B CN107475856B (en) 2020-08-25

Family

ID=60584631

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CN201710804928.9A Active CN107475856B (en) 2017-09-08 2017-09-08 Design and production process of star rain crepe fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
CN (1) CN107475856B (en)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109162010A (en) * 2018-08-27 2019-01-08 吴江福华织造有限公司 A kind of the curved shape back rest and its assembly method of Puckered fabric
CN113463250A (en) * 2021-07-08 2021-10-01 际华三五四二纺织有限公司 Micro-elastic crepe weaving process
CN113737355A (en) * 2021-10-11 2021-12-03 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 Production process of pure cotton yarn-dyed rice grain foam fabric

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101748545A (en) * 2009-12-17 2010-06-23 章金龙 Dacron simulation crepe yarn process
CN104313769A (en) * 2014-09-25 2015-01-28 如皋市丁堰纺织有限公司 Crinkled crepe fabric and weaving process thereof
CN105420884A (en) * 2016-01-10 2016-03-23 苏州丝立方纺织品有限公司 Stitch slipping resisting light and thin fancy crepe georgette shell fabric and weaving method thereof

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101748545A (en) * 2009-12-17 2010-06-23 章金龙 Dacron simulation crepe yarn process
CN104313769A (en) * 2014-09-25 2015-01-28 如皋市丁堰纺织有限公司 Crinkled crepe fabric and weaving process thereof
CN105420884A (en) * 2016-01-10 2016-03-23 苏州丝立方纺织品有限公司 Stitch slipping resisting light and thin fancy crepe georgette shell fabric and weaving method thereof

Non-Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
NTZZH: "星雨绉的图解", 《全球纺织网全球纺坛 HTTPS://CLUB.TNC.COM.CN/FORUM.PHP?MOD=VIEWTHREAD&TID=457559&HIGHLIGHT=%D0%C7%D3%EA%E7%A7》 *
周玉凤: "涤纶闪光顺纡绉的开发", 《丝绸》 *
沈健宏等: "纯棉特细双绉织物的生产实践", 《上海纺织科技》 *
贺晓丽等: "纯棉双向弹力绉织物的开发", 《天津工业大学学报》 *
黄文伟等: "纯棉高支强捻色织绉布的开发", 《广西纺织科技》 *

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109162010A (en) * 2018-08-27 2019-01-08 吴江福华织造有限公司 A kind of the curved shape back rest and its assembly method of Puckered fabric
CN109162010B (en) * 2018-08-27 2020-08-14 吴江福华织造有限公司 Curve-shaped back beam of crepe fabric and assembling method thereof
CN113463250A (en) * 2021-07-08 2021-10-01 际华三五四二纺织有限公司 Micro-elastic crepe weaving process
CN113737355A (en) * 2021-10-11 2021-12-03 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 Production process of pure cotton yarn-dyed rice grain foam fabric

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN107475856B (en) 2020-08-25

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
CN103614846B (en) Warp shearing figured cloth fabric and manufacturing process thereof
CN107142590B (en) A kind of production technology of tencel willow crepe fabric
CN106544775B (en) A kind of process producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric
CN106637597B (en) A kind of production technology of fancy leno and gauze fabric
CN106929977B (en) A kind of design and production method of cotton brocade elastic force dobby
CN105177823B (en) A kind of all-cotton yarn-dyed the exterior and the interior changes the production technology of layer dobby
CN106012234B (en) A kind of production technology through curve fabric
CN104514065A (en) High-count and high-density fabric with 80 pure tencel counts serving as warps and wefts and weaving process thereof
CN103774317A (en) Diamond fabrics and weaving process thereof
CN106835450B (en) A kind of color knits the production technology of warp-wise clipping and carving tubing
CN106498605A (en) A kind of color knits the different production technology through stripes that rockets
CN107313148B (en) A kind of production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric
CN106811854A (en) Viscose glue twists the production method of silk and Modal/big jacquard home textile of cotton intertexture
CN101270527A (en) Process for manufacturing sirospun yarn jean facing material
CN106400269A (en) Production technology of acetate fiber fabric
CN107475856A (en) A kind of design and its production technology of star rain crepe fabric
CN107299445B (en) The method for weaving of frivolous concave-convex cotton blanket based on honeycomb weave
CN106906553A (en) A kind of cotton glues the production technology of intertexture jacquard fabric
CN107059208A (en) A kind of production technology of color cotton yarn-dyed figured check fabric
CN104372491A (en) Production method for modal jacquard fabric
CN106149166A (en) A kind of Aloe modification viscose glue latitude bullet yarn dyed fabric and production technology thereof
CN101182664A (en) Environmental protection lining tenel cloth production process
CN107723877A (en) A kind of production technology of random pipe stockinette
CN112853569A (en) Preparation method of super-elastic multilayer fabric and super-elastic multilayer fabric
CN108103633A (en) Tencel relaxes elater small jacquard weft elastic fabric and its production method

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PB01 Publication
PB01 Publication
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
GR01 Patent grant
GR01 Patent grant