CN105755646B - The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn - Google Patents
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn Download PDFInfo
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- CN105755646B CN105755646B CN201610325414.0A CN201610325414A CN105755646B CN 105755646 B CN105755646 B CN 105755646B CN 201610325414 A CN201610325414 A CN 201610325414A CN 105755646 B CN105755646 B CN 105755646B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/242—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads inorganic, e.g. basalt
- D03D15/25—Metal
- D03D15/258—Noble metal
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/04—Silk
Abstract
The invention provides the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn, belong to Nanjing brocade weaving technology field, comprise the following steps：1) raw material prepares；2) Ridge tracing, grain pattern is arranged, draws artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring；The drafting of artistic conception with Nanjing brocade method for drafting, a piece organizine of each vertical lattice correspondence；3) cross-stitch work knot sheet；4) weave；5) arrange；The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn of the invention, possesses following advantage：1) various problem of materials are solved, using conventional woven method, from high-quality silk, is dyeed using vegetable colour；2) method for weaving and step are solved, how with spending comprehensive and leno heald to interweave with ground weft, the operation of loom device is used；3) crossing heald device with special rule is made, with specific plain heddle (heald) matching mechanism, two devices need to operate simultaneously, coordinate weaving；4) for the fabric with dark decorative pattern, dark flower part needs to spend picking for this.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to Nanjing brocade weaving technology field, and in particular to the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn.
Technical background
" adornment flower " is the most complicated kind of weaving process in Nanjing Cloud-pattern Brocade, be also most have Nanjing local characteristic with representative
The jacquard weave silk variety of property.Wooden machine adornment flower weaving process be in China 5,000 years silk weaving history, more than 3,000 years picture-weaving in silk history,
So far can not still be substituted by modern machines.
Sesame yarn is one of Nanjing brocade adornment flower yarn kind, and relatively with other kinds, sesame yarn kind is more rare.Though sesame yarn
For two through the class of reeled yarn one, but outward appearance is completely different, is exactly like the same yarn hole of sesame seed in appearance and constitutes.Rare production restoration now,
Existing kind is hidden in the Forbidden City, major museums mostly, the Forbidden City hide " clear Kangxu's Celeste the group's of knitting double dragon double phoenix line secretly spend
Sesame yarn is towards robe ", it is to be worn when emperor offers a sacrifice to Heaven towards robe, this part is secretly to spend the treasure in sesame yarn towards robe." clear Qianrong's Huang yarn
Double-faced embroidery bright cloud gold dragon design list imperial robe ", equally uses sesame yarn face.
Though sesame yarn is that two through the class of reeled yarn one, weaving skill is differed, i.e., be not it is a large amount of penetrating nor it is a large amount of on the spot,
Fabric real empty half and half；Recorded from document and object analysis, this kind only Qing Dynasty is exclusive, recover weaving process, to there is shutting mechanism to have
There is certain meaning.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention：It is an object of the invention to provide the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn, recover weaving process.
Technical scheme：For achieving the above object, the present invention is adopted the following technical scheme that：
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn, comprises the following steps：
1) raw material prepares
Organizine：Throwing, finishing, dyeing, rounding gold thread；Organizine needs the thread count according to fabric come specific, opposite
Silk carries out degumming；
Dress is made：Installation, make crossing heald device, comprehensive line, Fu Zong, shaft raising, Hua Zong, pass, lift, suspension column prepare, upper warp；Number
Silk, draw it is fine, pick up thin silk fabric, denting；
The organizine of sesame yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e., pass through and doup end；Organizine first penetrate spend it is comprehensive in, spend for every and comprehensive penetrate one
Organizine；Penetrate again in hedge (volt is comprehensive), the effect of hedge is to coordinate adornment flower (color latitude) to carry out swivel disk to knit, silk point between formation；So
After respectively penetrate model (shaft raising), crossing heald device, crossing heald device and model cooperate, and doup end is normally lifted, can also make
Doup end whole twisting, forms sesame yarn tissue；
2) Ridge tracing
Grain pattern is arranged, draws artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring；The drafting of artistic conception with Nanjing brocade method for drafting, it is each
A piece organizine of vertical lattice correspondence；
3) cross-stitch work knot sheet
Cotton thread, beat ears or side handles of a utensil line, lead bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, fall flower, parquets, knot；
4) weave
Drag flower, disk knit, beat up, take-up and let-off；
Coordinate weaving ground portion jointly using leno heald and model during weaving, leno heald, the mutual twisting of organizine are lifted using foot-driven lever
Penetrate parallel, then it is foot-operated lift model, penetrate parallel, the plain weave and reeled yarn tissue of formation rule；Skill is knitted using swivel disk complete
Part is spent into adornment, spends comprehensive and hedge to need to cooperate, spend comprehensive jacquard weave to weave color latitude gold thread, hedge effect is between the formation of flower portion
Silk point；
(5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, it is whole scald, inspection, packaging, storage.
Step 1) in, crossing heald device controls all of doup end twisting, and shaft raising is passed through with controlling respectively, doup end is risen and fallen, leno heald and
Shaft raising cooperation control doup end is risen and fallen and penetrates parallel, forms yarn ground；Leno heald and shaft raising control respectively doup end, pass through, formed plain weave；Twist
The size of comprehensive device be same as two through reeled yarn crossing heald device；Twine helad number is several holes according to sesame yarn to be determined, shaft raising totally two
The effect of piece is warp and parallel is woven into plain weave or reeled yarn tissue, and harness cord number is several hole counts according to sesame yarn determines rule
Rule, lie prostrate it is comprehensive totally four and spend comprehensive mutual cooperation, to complete the weaving of dark decorative pattern or adornment flower (color latitude gold thread).
When described sesame yarn ground portion (sesame ground) is for five holes, as five hole sesame yarns then will be by 24 when passing
The operation that the mode of the circulation of warp one is passed；The twisting of crossing heald device major control doup end, shaft raising controls the upper drop of organizine,
Volt is comprehensive mainly to be weaved to coordinate when dark decorative pattern or Nanjing brocade adornment are spent and spends comprehensive use.
Five described hole sesame yarn elementary organizations are circulated for four latitudes, and warp-wise is that 24 organizine are longitudinal direction circulation, and the first latitude is first
All hoisted through leno heald, the second latitude be shaft raising 1 respectively in units of 24 organizine, six roots of sensation second pass through, and six roots of sensation first is passed through, formation six
Plain weave unit, six reeled yarn units；3rd latitude is all hoisted for first is passed through again by leno heald, and the 4th latitude is controlled respectively for shaft raising 2
Through hoisting, six roots of sensation second is passed through six roots of sensation first, opposite with the second latitude；So circulation forms the poroid fabric of strip.
The sesame yarn on the ground spend (Nanjing brocade adornment spends skill) by weaving adornment, and ground portion is sesame ground, and line portion takes swivel skill to enter
The color latitude handsel of row weaving；But during for needing dark decorative pattern in ground portion, it is relatively cumbersome；Ground portion and line portion need to be fabricated separately meaning
Craftsman, makes flower originally, and artistic conception is than being also what is differed；By taking porter 16 as an example, broadwise 22, line portion (Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill part)
Artistic conception ratio is 32/22；And the artistic conception of ground portion (diameter yarn secretly spends part) compares 16/11；The part cross-stitch work of dark flower needs special rule to choose
Flower, i.e. diameter yarn cross-stitch work mode, the cross-stitch work of dark decorative pattern are chosen and are knitted for there is dark flower part to carry out even number (for fabric Shangdi warp),
There is no dark knurling section to carry out sesame yarn tissue and choose to knit, weaved with reference to crossing heald device in jacquard weave.
Beneficial effect：Compared with prior art, the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn of the invention, possesses following advantage：
1) various problem of materials are solved, using conventional woven method, from high-quality silk, is contaminated using vegetable colour
Color；
2) method for weaving and step are solved, how with spending comprehensive and leno heald to interweave with ground weft, the operation of loom device is used；
3) crossing heald device with special rule is made, with specific plain heddle (heald) matching mechanism, two devices need simultaneously
Running, coordinates weaving；
4) for the fabric with dark decorative pattern, dark flower part needs to spend picking for this.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn loom；
Fig. 2 is five hole sesame yarn institutional framework schematic diagrames；
Fig. 3 is five hole sesame yarn drafting plans.
Specific embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the present invention is furture elucidated, it should be understood that these embodiments are merely to illustrate the present invention
Rather than limitation the scope of the present invention, after the present invention has been read, those skilled in the art are to various equivalences of the invention
The modification of form falls within the application appended claims limited range.
The weaving process of sesame yarn：When needing to weave dark decorative pattern or adornment flower, drawn respectively in artistic conception design process,
According to process requirements, dark knurling section and adornment flower part are drawn respectively.Cross-stitch work is carried out according to different tissues demand in cross-stitch work, can
Different cross-stitch work schemes are carried out with according to different method for weaving.
Leno heald Main Function is to lift doup end, coordinates shaft raising to carry out the weaving of sesame yarn tissue, and adornment flower part recycles
The skill that adornment flower swivel disk is knitted, coordinates volt comprehensive, weaving adornment flower (color latitude gold thread).
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn, comprises the following steps：
1) raw material prepares
Organizine：Throwing, finishing, dyeing, rounding gold thread；Organizine needs the thread count according to fabric come specific, opposite
Silk carries out fraction of degumming, and the quality of fabric is made after weaving has certain soft feel.
Dress is made：Installation, make crossing heald device, comprehensive line, Fu Zong, shaft raising, Hua Zong, pass, lift, suspension column prepare, upper warp；Number
Silk, draw it is fine, pick up thin silk fabric, denting；
The organizine of sesame yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e., pass through and doup end.Organizine first penetrate spend it is comprehensive in, spend for every and comprehensive penetrate one
Organizine；Penetrate again in hedge (volt is comprehensive), the effect of hedge is to coordinate adornment flower (color latitude) to carry out swivel disk to knit, silk point between formation；So
Respectively penetrate afterwards in model (shaft raising), special crossing heald device, crossing heald device and model cooperate, and doup end is normally lifted,
Also doup end whole twisting can be made, sesame yarn tissue is formed；
2) Ridge tracing
Grain pattern is arranged, draws artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring；The drafting of artistic conception with Nanjing brocade method for drafting, it is each
A piece organizine of vertical lattice correspondence；
3) cross-stitch work knot sheet
Cotton thread, beat ears or side handles of a utensil line, lead bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, fall flower, parquets, knot；
4) weave
Drag flower, disk knit, beat up, take-up and let-off；
Mainly coordinate weaving ground portion jointly using special leno heald and model during weaving, leno heald, organizine are lifted using foot-driven lever
Mutual twisting penetrates parallel, then it is foot-operated lift model, penetrate parallel, the plain weave and reeled yarn tissue of formation rule；Using swivel disk
Knit skill and complete adornment flower part, spend comprehensive and hedge to need to cooperate, spend comprehensive jacquard weave to weave color latitude gold thread, hedge effect is in flower
Silk point between portion's formation.
(5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, it is whole scald, inspection, packaging, storage.
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn, specific method for weaving is：
1) tissue of the portion basically of sesame yarn, Chang Weiwu holes or seven apertures in the human head, is accomplished by being filled using specific leno heald during weaving
Put, with completing the weaving of ground portion doup end with plain heddle (heald)；Crossing heald device will make twine helad according to its ground portion tissue, in weaving five
During the sesame yarn of hole, the operation that will be passed in the way of 24 warps one are circulated when passing；Crossing heald device major control
The twisting of doup end, shaft raising controls the upper drop of organizine, lie prostrate it is comprehensive mainly weave to coordinate when dark decorative pattern or Nanjing brocade adornment are spent spend comprehensive use；
As shown in figure 1, the comprehensive of loom is broadly divided into, leno heald, shaft raising, lies prostrate comprehensive and spend comprehensive, control different organizine to transport respectively
It is dynamic, to reach the requirement of fabric, the size of crossing heald device be same as two through reeled yarn crossing heald device, but twine helad number is according to sesame yarn
Several holes determine that the effect of two panels is warp is woven into plain weave or reeled yarn tissue with parallel altogether for shaft raising, harness cord number is root
Determine rule according to several hole counts of sesame yarn, lie prostrate it is comprehensive totally four and spend comprehensive mutual cooperation, to complete dark decorative pattern or adornment flower (color latitude gold
Line) weaving；
Sesame yarn loom, leno heald controls all of doup end twisting, and shaft raising is passed through with controlling respectively, doup end is risen and fallen, and leno heald and rises
Comprehensive cooperation control doup end is risen and fallen and penetrates parallel, forms yarn ground；Leno heald and shaft raising control respectively doup end, pass through, formed plain weave；As schemed
Shown in 2-3, five hole sesame yarn elementary organizations are circulated for four latitudes, and warp-wise is that 24 organizine are longitudinal direction circulation, and the first latitude is first through leno heald
All hoist, the second latitude be shaft raising 1 respectively in units of 24 organizine, six roots of sensation second pass through, and six roots of sensation first is passed through, six plain weave lists of formation
Position, six reeled yarn units；3rd latitude is all hoisted for first is passed through again by leno heald, and the 4th latitude controls six roots of sensation first respectively for shaft raising 2
Through hoisting, six roots of sensation second is passed through, opposite with the second latitude.So circulation forms the poroid fabric of strip；
3) for sesame yarn, weaving adornment is spent (Nanjing brocade adornment spends skill) on the ground, and ground portion is sesame ground, and line portion takes swivel skill
Carry out weaving color latitude handsel；But during for needing dark decorative pattern in ground portion, it is relatively cumbersome.Ground portion and line portion need to be fabricated separately
Artistic conception, makes flower originally, and artistic conception is than being also what is differed；By taking porter 16 as an example, broadwise 22, line portion (Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill part)
Artistic conception ratio be 32/22；And the artistic conception of ground portion (diameter yarn secretly spends part) compares 16/11；The part cross-stitch work of dark flower needs special rule
Cross-stitch work, i.e. diameter yarn cross-stitch work mode, the cross-stitch work of dark decorative pattern are chosen for there is dark flower part to carry out even number (for fabric Shangdi warp)
Knit, there is no dark knurling section to carry out sesame yarn tissue and choose to knit, weaved with reference to crossing heald device in jacquard weave.
Weaving is equally required weaving person higher using woven mode by hand.When for ground portion doup end, part organizine
Do not lift completely or be connected with other organizine it is necessary to the person of weaving by the comprehensive control of element so that organizine opening is clear
It is easy to weaving.The control of warp tension needs, by thinking to grasp, to get hold of dynamics, is controlled while being beaten up to doup end tissue
The organizine that dark flower part does not twist, makes its flowering, lines full clear.
Sesame yarn as yarn class a particular line, technique it is woven recover have definite meaning.Not only enrich natural science
The yarn kind fabric in shop, is conducive to the protection and displaying to yarn class historical relic, can also subsequently develop the yarn of similar quality, develops not
The yarn kind of same geometry regular patterns.Sesame yarn quality compacted mass, like thoroughly non-, coordinates dark decorative pattern and adornment flower to make fabric
With unique effect.
Claims (5)
1. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn, it is characterised in that：Comprise the following steps：
1) raw material prepares
Organizine：Throwing, finishing, dyeing, rounding gold thread；Organizine is needed according to the thread count of fabric come specific, and raw silk is entered
Row degumming；
Dress is made：Installation, make crossing heald device, comprehensive line, Fu Zong, shaft raising, Hua Zong, pass, lift, suspension column prepare, upper warp；Several,
Draw fibre, pick up thin silk fabric, denting；
The organizine of sesame yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e., pass through and doup end；Organizine first penetrate spend it is comprehensive in, spend for every and comprehensive penetrate a warp
Silk；Penetrate again in hedge, the effect of hedge is to coordinate adornment flower to carry out swivel disk to knit, silk point between formation；Then respectively penetrate model,
In crossing heald device, crossing heald device and model cooperate, and doup end is normally lifted, and can also make doup end whole twisting, form sesame
Yarn tissue；
2) Ridge tracing
Grain pattern is arranged, draws artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring；The drafting of artistic conception with Nanjing brocade method for drafting, each vertical lattice
A piece organizine of correspondence；
3) cross-stitch work knot sheet
Cotton thread, beat ears or side handles of a utensil line, lead bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, fall flower, parquets, knot；
4) weave
Drag flower, disk knit, beat up, take-up and let-off；
Coordinate weaving ground portion jointly using leno heald and model during weaving, leno heald is lifted using foot-driven lever, the mutual twisting of organizine is penetrated
Parallel, then it is foot-operated lift model, penetrate parallel, the plain weave and reeled yarn tissue of formation rule；Skill is knitted using swivel disk and completes adornment
Flower part, spends comprehensive and hedge to need to cooperate, and spends comprehensive jacquard weave to weave color latitude gold thread, and hedge effect is the silk between the formation of flower portion
Point；
(5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, it is whole scald, inspection, packaging, storage.
2. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Step 1) in, crossing heald device control
All of doup end twisting is made, shaft raising is passed through with controlling respectively, doup end is risen and fallen, leno heald and shaft raising cooperation control doup end are risen and fallen and penetrate latitude
Line, forms yarn ground；Leno heald and shaft raising control respectively doup end, pass through, formed plain weave；The size of crossing heald device is same as two through reeled yarn
Crossing heald device；Twine helad number is several holes according to sesame yarn to be determined, the effect of two panels is warp is interweaved with parallel altogether for shaft raising
Into plain weave or reeled yarn tissue, harness cord number is several hole counts according to sesame yarn determines rule, lies prostrate and comprehensive totally four and to spend comprehensive phase interworking
Close, to complete the weaving that dark decorative pattern or adornment are spent.
3. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn according to claim 2, it is characterised in that：The ground portion of described sesame yarn is
During five holes, as five hole sesame yarns, the then operation that will be passed in the way of 24 warps one are circulated when passing；Leno heald
The twisting of device major control doup end, shaft raising controls the upper drop of organizine, lies prostrate comprehensive being mainly when weaving dark decorative pattern or Nanjing brocade adornment flower and matches somebody with somebody
Comprehensive use is spent in conjunction.
4. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn according to claim 3, it is characterised in that：Five described hole sesame yarns are basic
The circulation of four latitudes is organized as, warp-wise is that 24 organizine are longitudinal direction circulation, and the first latitude is all hoisted for first through leno heald, and the second latitude is shaft raising 1
Respectively in units of 24 organizine, six roots of sensation second is passed through, and six roots of sensation first is passed through, and forms six plain weave units, six reeled yarn units；3rd latitude
Be first through all being hoisted again by leno heald, the 4th latitude controls six roots of sensation first through hoisting respectively for shaft raising 2, and six roots of sensation second is passed through, with the
Two latitudes are opposite；So circulation forms the poroid fabric of strip.
5. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade sesame yarn according to claim 2, it is characterised in that：The ground weaving of the sesame yarn
Adornment is spent, and line portion takes the swivel skill to carry out weaving color latitude handsel；Ground portion and line portion need to be fabricated separately artistic conception, make flower originally；Secretly
Flower part cross-stitch work needs special rule cross-stitch work, i.e. diameter yarn cross-stitch work mode, the cross-stitch work of dark decorative pattern, for there is dark flower part to carry out idol
Number is chosen and is knitted, and does not have dark knurling section to carry out sesame yarn tissue and choose to knit, and is weaved with reference to crossing heald device in jacquard weave.
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| CN105525412B (en) * | 2016-01-25 | 2017-04-26 | 涟水天宫云锦织造有限公司 | Pattern model conveying device of brocade weaving machine |
| CN109371524A (en) * | 2018-11-14 | 2019-02-22 | 南京云锦研究所有限公司 | Nanjing brocade special electronic cross-stitch work machine |
| CN114000244B (en) * | 2021-11-30 | 2022-12-20 | 厦门造世代网络科技有限公司 | Manufacturing process of industrial brocade makeup flower co-woven by colorful patterns and transparent yarns |
| CN116334832B (en) * | 2023-03-30 | 2023-11-03 | 南京云锦研究所有限公司 | Weaving method of codified tissue yarn cap fabric |
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| CN103757794A (en) * | 2011-12-07 | 2014-04-30 | 陈爱莲 | Brocade tie weaving method |
| CN102995218A (en) * | 2012-10-10 | 2013-03-27 | 涟水华夏云锦织造有限公司 | Hand-stitching method for fine and smooth chromatic halo |
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