CN110144663A - One kind receive yarn embroider effect jacquard fabric production technology - Google Patents

One kind receive yarn embroider effect jacquard fabric production technology Download PDF

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Publication number
CN110144663A
CN110144663A CN201910444628.3A CN201910444628A CN110144663A CN 110144663 A CN110144663 A CN 110144663A CN 201910444628 A CN201910444628 A CN 201910444628A CN 110144663 A CN110144663 A CN 110144663A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
latitude
warp
surface layer
inner layer
tissue
Prior art date
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Application number
CN201910444628.3A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN110144663B (en
Inventor
丁圆圆
雷斌
林平
赵淑慧
李红梅
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HIGH FASHION SILK (ZHEJIANG) CO Ltd
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HIGH FASHION SILK (ZHEJIANG) CO Ltd
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Priority to CN201910444628.3A priority Critical patent/CN110144663B/en
Publication of CN110144663A publication Critical patent/CN110144663A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D9/00Open-work fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses one kind receive yarn embroider effect jacquard fabric production technology, belong to jacquard weaving technical field.Including specifications design, Dobby Weave Design, looming weaving, warp combination is made of greater number of surface layer warp and small number of inner layer warp, first latitude, second latitude, third latitude constitutes weft combination, upper machine warp, weft density is respectively 112.8/cm, 114/cm, first latitude, second latitude, third latitude picking ratio is 1: 1: 1, single loom beam weaving, flower portion tissue is using weight latitude tissue, warp and first latitude, second latitude, third latitude interweaves, warp recurring number 24, every group of weft recurring number 4, ground portion tissue is double-layered structure, textura epidermoidea is mock leno weave, inner layer tissue is plain weave, surface layer is by first latitude, second latitude is same to be in an open state and surface layer warp intertexture, inner layer is interweaved in another opening with inner layer warp by the third latitude, third latitude and and surface layer warp part binding.Using the Gao Jinggao weft density jacquard fabric of above-mentioned technique, yarn of receiving embroidery texture is obvious, woven yarns hole effect is good.

Description

One kind receive yarn embroider effect jacquard fabric production technology
[technical field]
The present invention relates to a kind of jacquard fabric production technology, the production of effect jacquard fabric is embroidered more particularly, to a kind of yarn of receiving Technique belongs to jacquard weaving technical field.
[background technique]
As people pursue the increasingly strong of quality of the life, Chinese feature, the traditional culture of folk custom start to return public Sight, and elements of Traditional Culture is combined with modern Jacquard Technique innovation, is trend of the times.It receives and embroiders yarn once in the Ming and Qing times It for used in imperial family, but receives yarn and is embroidered on extremely rare in similar embroidery artistic work handed down from ancient times, can be engaged in receive the embroidery craftsman of yarn embroidery now Be it is very few, skill frequency faces extinction.
Yarn of receiving embroidery, also known as stamp yarn are embroidered, get embroidery ready, are that it is ophthalmically acceptable various regularly to press yarn one is ground is made with gaze bluter Stamp receives the embroidery skill and technique of decorative pattern by hand for the embroider line of color, and the basic skill of handling needles is exactly that different face are embroidered on the crosspoint of each bolting silk The line of color, the embroider line that yarn of receiving is embroidered belong to staight needle embroidery.One width is completely received yarn embroidery and is made of thousands of in riotous profusion embroidered points , embroidered 1000-2000 embroidered point is usually wanted on one square inch of bolting silk, that is to say, that area every square centimeter is received Yarn pattern wants embroidered 300 spininess, and needs to frequently replace the embroider line of different colours, one large-sized receive yarn embroidery usually by Hundreds of thousands of a embroidered points, 100 kinds or more of embroider line composition.According to statistics, one is also only capable of embroidered 3 square inches or so in embroidery art one day, One 50 square inches of yarn embroidery of receiving takes around time of embroidered about two months.
For this purpose, the present patent application it is quasi- have by modern Jacquard Technique exploitation receive yarn and embroider the jacquard fabric of effect, proving While woven imitative embroidery feasibility, for due to receive yarn product decreases directly be faced with extinction predicament receive yarn culture inject it is fresh Vigor.However imitative receive whether yarn embroiders the yarn hole effect at bottom obviously is influenced by warp, the weft density of jacquard fabric deeply, is usually adopted With warp, the weft density of tens pieces/centimeter, then sieve pore is more obvious, if after using Gao Jing, high weft density, sieve pore is smaller just difficult To display.In the prior art, the yarn hole effect that yarn of receiving embroiders yarn bottom is usually to pass through leno group on jacquard weave weaving fabric It knits to realize woven yarns hole, but lace stitch needs special crossing heald device, it is cumbersome that weaving condition limits and there are techniques Deficiency.
[summary of the invention]
The object of the present invention is to provide receive yarn in the case of a kind of Gao Jing, high weft density to embroider that texture is obvious, hole of woven yarns hole The good yarn of receiving of eye effect embroiders effect jacquard fabric production technology.
One kind receives yarn and embroiders effect jacquard fabric production technology, which includes the following steps: specifications design, fabric group Design, looming weaving are knitted, in specifications design, warp combination is passed through by greater number of surface layer warp and small number of inner layer Line composition, first latitude, second latitude and the third latitude constitute weft combination, determine width in finished product, finished product thread count and effectively through line number, In looming weaving, upper machine effective gate width is 287cm, and upper machine warp, weft density are respectively 112.8/cm, 114/cm, first latitude, second The picking ratio of latitude and the third latitude is 1: 1: 1, is weaved using single loom beam, and the flower portion of protrusion, flower portion group is presented in fabric surface It knits using weight latitude tissue, is interweaved by whole warps and first latitude, second latitude, the third latitude, 24, every group of weft follows the control of warp recurring number Number of rings control 4 needs to form the ground portion in woven yarns hole in fabric, and ground portion tissue uses double-layered structure, and textura epidermoidea uses open-work Tissue, inner layer tissue use plain weave, wherein surface layer is in an open state together by first latitude, second latitude and surface layer warp is handed over Knit to be formed, inner layer is interweaved with inner layer warp and is formed in another opening by the third latitude, and the third latitude also and and surface layer warp part binding with Surface layer and inner layer are connected to ground portion.
Above-mentioned surface layer warp with effectively through the ratio between line number be 3: 4;Inner layer warp with effectively through the ratio between line number be 1: 4.
Warp in above-mentioned specifications design step uses the 23dex mulberry silk color silk f1 S680 of Z800 × 2, first latitude, second latitude It is all made of 23dex mulberry silk color silk f5 S380 with the third latitude, is effectively 32375 through line number, width is 270cm, finished product warp in finished product Close, finished product filling density is respectively 119.9/cm, 117/cm.
The present invention has the following advantages that afterwards by adopting the above technical scheme and good effect:
Flower portion tissue selects weight latitude tissue, and after, the optimized design of weft recurring number, the floating length of weft is reasonably controlled System has prevented to float long insufficient and cloth cover monoclinic phase lines the generation for easily leading to fabric and hooking silk entirely due to weft, and flower pattern surface is pico- Protrusion, jacquard weave portion receive yarn embroider texture shown well.
Ground portion tissue uses double-layered structure, and warp is divided into two, the quantity of surface layer warp and inner layer warp through rational proportion, Mock leno weave's expression is selected in woven yarns hole, and first latitude, second latitude make ground portion table with an open state and surface layer warp intertexture is in The woven yarns hole effect of layer is obvious, and cloth cover erected state, which is met, produces steadily appropriate yarn eye effect when light is watched, to solve Eyelet unconspicuous technical problem in the case of Gao Jing, high weft density;On the basis of inner layer warp and the third latitude plain weave interweave, third Latitude is also with the reasonable binding of top layer warp yams, then portion is more not easy to criticize and split, to improve the yields of fabric.
The optimization design organized by ground portion acts on the third latitude with binding pick, without binder weft is separately provided, such as This can reduce weft number of combinations, and single loom beam weaving has double-deck ground portion, can not only reduce the skewer of weaving preparation through workload, and And it is disconnected through more, the disconnected deficiency inefficient through processing to avoid twin shaft weaving.
In short, the present invention with jacquard weaving technique production receive yarn embroider effect fabric, be greatly enriched jacquard fabric The form of expression.
[Detailed description of the invention]
Fig. 1 is the schematic illustration of tissue that 3/4 warp of ground portion surface layer and first latitude, second latitude interweave;
Fig. 2 is the schematic illustration of tissue that ground portion warp and the third latitude interweave;
Fig. 3~Fig. 5 is the organization chart in jacquard weave portion.
In figure,
With zero indicate first latitude and warp through interlacing point;
With ◎ indicate second latitude and warp through interlacing point;
With ● indicate the third latitude and warp through interlacing point;
The binding place of the third latitude Yu surface layer warp is indicated with △.
[specific embodiment]
One kind receives yarn and embroiders effect jacquard fabric production technology, which includes the following steps: specifications design, fabric group Knit design, looming weaving.
Specifications design: warp combination is made of greater number of surface layer warp and small number of inner layer warp, first Latitude, second latitude and the third latitude constitute weft combination, determine width in finished product, finished product thread count and effectively through line number.
Organization design: the flower portion of protrusion is presented in fabric surface, flower portion tissue is using weight latitude tissue, by whole warps and first Latitude, second latitude, the third latitude interweave, and the control of warp recurring number is 24, and the recurring number control of every group of weft is 4, i.e., the circulation of three groups wefts Number control is 12.
The ground portion in woven yarns hole is needed to form in fabric, ground portion tissue uses double-layered structure, and textura epidermoidea uses open-work group It knits, inner layer tissue uses plain weave, wherein
Surface layer is by first latitude, second latitude with an open state is in and surface layer warp interweaves and formed, and inner layer is by the third latitude another Opening interweaves with being formed with inner layer warp, and the third latitude is also and with surface layer warp part binding to be connected to ground portion for surface layer and inner layer.
After the completion of organization design, electronics line version is made.
Raw material design: warp uses 23dex mulberry silk (ripe color) S680 of f1 Z800 × 2, and first latitude, second latitude and the third latitude are adopted With 23dex mulberry silk (ripe color) f5 S380.
The processing technology of warp is as follows:
Raw material is → fastidious → to be impregnated → dries → and reeling → and silk → twisted filament → steam box sizing → natural cooling → rewinding → Dyeing → drying → color inspection → rewinding → guarantor's tide → skewer warp → looming weaving → mistake water soft finish → finished product.
The processing technology of weft:
Raw material is → fastidious → to be impregnated → dries → reeling → and silk → twisted filament → dyeing → drying → color inspection → rewinding → guarantor Tide → looming weaving → mistake water soft finish → finished product.
In the present embodiment, the color of warp is cream-coloured, and the color of first latitude, second latitude and the third latitude is respectively dark red, purplish red, black Color.
Weaving: fabric manufacture equipment matches France Staubli using Italy's SULZER-6200/3200 computer rapier loom DX880-5120 electronic jacquard.Weaving prepares: single beam of a loom is installed on toward computer rapier loom, upper axis tension force is 27 ± 2CN is effectively 32375 (left and right dual side-edge is respectively 32 through number) through the end of a thread number, installs three barry dyeing tubes on bobbin cradle Son.
Surface layer warp with effectively through the ratio between line number be 3: 4;Inner layer warp with effectively through the ratio between line number be 1: 4;First latitude, second latitude Picking ratio with the third latitude is 1: 1: 1;The effectively interior width 287cm of upper machine.
Weaving process setting are as follows: 23 ± 2CN of warp tension, 112.8/cm of warp density on machine, close 22.56 teeth of reed/cm, reed are worn Entering number is 5/tooth, 114/cm of weft density on machine.
By the controller of electronics line version input electronic jacquard machine, then starts the weaving of computer jacquard loom and run, after lower machine Obtain finished product.
Under finished product after machine, width is 270cm in finished product, and finished product thickness is 40.47m/m (momme), and finished product is through close, finished product filling density Respectively 119.9/cm, 117/cm.

Claims (3)

1. one kind receives yarn and embroiders effect jacquard fabric production technology, which includes the following steps: specifications design, fabric tissue Design, looming weaving, in specifications design, warp combination is by greater number of surface layer warp and small number of inner layer warp Composition, first latitude, second latitude and the third latitude constitute weft combination, width in finished product, finished product thread count are determined and effectively through line number, upper Woven to make, upper machine effective gate width is 287cm, and upper machine warp, weft density are respectively 112.8/cm, 114/cm, first latitude, second latitude Picking ratio with the third latitude is 1: 1: 1, is weaved using single loom beam, it is characterised in that:
The flower portion of protrusion is presented in fabric surface, flower portion tissue is using weight latitude tissue, by whole warps and first latitude, second latitude, the third latitude Interweaving, for the control of warp recurring number 24, the recurring number of every group of weft controls 4,
The ground portion in woven yarns hole is needed to form in fabric, ground portion tissue uses double-layered structure, and textura epidermoidea uses mock leno weave, inner Layer tissue uses plain weave, wherein
Surface layer is by first latitude, second latitude with an open state is in and surface layer warp interweaves and formed, and inner layer is by the third latitude in another opening Interweave with being formed with inner layer warp, and the third latitude is also and with surface layer warp part binding to be connected to ground portion for surface layer and inner layer.
2. it is according to claim 1 receive yarn embroider effect jacquard fabric production technology, it is characterised in that: the surface layer warp with It is effectively 3: 4 through the ratio between line number;Inner layer warp with effectively through the ratio between line number be 1: 4.
3. yarn according to claim 1 of receiving embroiders effect jacquard fabric production technology, it is characterised in that: the specifications design step Warp in rapid uses the 23dex mulberry silk color silk f1 S680 of Z800 × 2, and first latitude, second latitude and the third latitude are all made of 23dex mulberry silk Color silk f5 S380 is effectively 32375 through line number, and width is 270cm in finished product, and finished product is respectively 119.9 through close, finished product filling density Root/cm, 117/cm.
CN201910444628.3A 2019-05-16 2019-05-16 Production process of jacquard fabric with nano-yarn embroidery effect Active CN110144663B (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111041654A (en) * 2019-12-21 2020-04-21 达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司 Production process of yarn-dyed real silk jacquard fabric with creasing and laser effects

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102006004681A1 (en) * 2006-02-02 2007-08-16 Bundesrepublik Deutschland, vertreten durch das Bundesministerium der Verteidigung, vertreten durch das Bundesamt für Wehrtechnik und Beschaffung Camouflage fabric with at least three colors, e.g. 3- or 5-color patterned patch fabric, has alternating, differently colored warp threads and weft thread of third color and is obtained by Jacquard weaving
CN101046025A (en) * 2007-04-20 2007-10-03 杭州万谷纺织有限公司 High cover factor double-layer jacquard color-woven fabric and its weaving process
CN101487155A (en) * 2009-03-05 2009-07-22 章国荣 Compound light-adjusting jacquard window decoration fabric and weaving process thereof
CN105648637A (en) * 2016-04-13 2016-06-08 江苏工程职业技术学院 Pure aloe fiber warp and weft double-elasticity yarn-dyed fabric and production technology thereof
CN108866753A (en) * 2018-08-10 2018-11-23 江苏工程职业技术学院 A kind of color knits micro- design method for playing open-work cotton crepe that rocketed

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102006004681A1 (en) * 2006-02-02 2007-08-16 Bundesrepublik Deutschland, vertreten durch das Bundesministerium der Verteidigung, vertreten durch das Bundesamt für Wehrtechnik und Beschaffung Camouflage fabric with at least three colors, e.g. 3- or 5-color patterned patch fabric, has alternating, differently colored warp threads and weft thread of third color and is obtained by Jacquard weaving
CN101046025A (en) * 2007-04-20 2007-10-03 杭州万谷纺织有限公司 High cover factor double-layer jacquard color-woven fabric and its weaving process
CN101487155A (en) * 2009-03-05 2009-07-22 章国荣 Compound light-adjusting jacquard window decoration fabric and weaving process thereof
CN105648637A (en) * 2016-04-13 2016-06-08 江苏工程职业技术学院 Pure aloe fiber warp and weft double-elasticity yarn-dyed fabric and production technology thereof
CN108866753A (en) * 2018-08-10 2018-11-23 江苏工程职业技术学院 A kind of color knits micro- design method for playing open-work cotton crepe that rocketed

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111041654A (en) * 2019-12-21 2020-04-21 达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司 Production process of yarn-dyed real silk jacquard fabric with creasing and laser effects

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