CN110144663B

CN110144663B - Production process of jacquard fabric with nano-yarn embroidery effect

Info

Publication number: CN110144663B
Application number: CN201910444628.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 丁圆圆; 雷斌; 林平; 赵淑慧; 李红梅
Original assignee: High Fashion Silk Zhejiang Co ltd
Current assignee: High Fashion Silk Zhejiang Co ltd
Priority date: 2019-05-16
Filing date: 2019-05-16
Publication date: 2020-07-10
Anticipated expiration: 2039-05-16
Also published as: CN110144663A

Abstract

The invention discloses a production process of a jacquard fabric with a nano yarn embroidery effect, and belongs to the technical field of jacquard weaving. The warp combination consists of a large number of surface layer warps and a small number of inner layer warps, the first weft, the second weft and the third weft form the weft combination, the densities of the upper warp and the second weft are respectively 112.8/cm and 114/cm, the weft inserting ratio of the first weft, the second weft and the third weft is 1: 1, the single weaving shaft is used for weaving, the flower part tissue adopts a heavy weft tissue, the warps are interwoven with the first weft, the second weft and the third weft, the number of warp cycles is 24, the number of weft cycles of each group is 4, the ground part tissue is a double-layer tissue, the surface layer tissue is a through hole tissue, the inner layer tissue is a plain weave tissue, the surface layer is interwoven with the surface layer in an opening state by the first weft and the second weft, the inner layer is interwoven with the inner layer warps by the third weft in another opening state, and the third weft is also partially bound with the surface layer warps. The high-warp high-weft density jacquard fabric adopting the process has obvious texture of nano yarn embroidery and good effect of weaving yarn holes.

Description

Production process of jacquard fabric with nano-yarn embroidery effect

[ technical field ] A method for producing a semiconductor device

The invention relates to a production process of a jacquard fabric, in particular to a production process of a jacquard fabric with a nano-yarn embroidery effect, and belongs to the technical field of jacquard weaving.

[ background of the invention ]

With the increasingly strong pursuit of people on the quality of life, the traditional culture of Chinese style and folk customizations starts to return to the sight of the public, and the combination of the traditional culture elements and the innovation of the modern jacquard technique is a trend. The nano embroidery yarn was used by royal families in the Ming and Qing era, but the nano embroidery yarn is rare in the similar ancient embroidery artwork, and the embroidery workers who can do the nano embroidery yarn are few at all at present, and the skills are frequently on the way.

The yarn accepting embroidery, also called poking embroidery and dotting embroidery, is an embroidery technique using silk as ground and regularly and manually poking patterns with embroidery threads of various colors according to the eyes, the basic stitch method is to embroider threads of different colors at the cross points of each silk, and the embroidery threads of the yarn accepting embroidery belong to straight stitch embroidery. A complete nano-yarn embroidery product is composed of thousands of colorful embroidery points, 1000-. According to statistics, an embroidery worker can only embroider about 3 square inches per day, and a 50 square inch nano yarn embroidery product needs about two months of time.

Therefore, the invention intends to develop the jacquard fabric with the effect of yarn receiving embroidery through the modern jacquard technology, and introduces fresh vitality into yarn receiving culture directly facing to the death dilemma due to the weakening of yarn receiving products while proving the feasibility of weaving imitation embroidery. However, the effect of yarn holes of the imitated nano yarn embroidery bottom is obviously or not influenced by the warp and weft density of the jacquard fabric, the mesh is obvious if the warp and weft density of dozens of yarns/centimeter is adopted, and the mesh is difficult to show if the mesh is small if the warp and weft density is adopted. In the prior art, the yarn hole effect of the yarn bottom of the nano yarn embroidery is usually realized by a leno weave on a jacquard weaving weave, but the leno weave needs a special leno heddle device, the weaving condition is limited, and the process is fussy.

[ summary of the invention ]

The invention aims to provide a production process of a nano-yarn embroidery effect jacquard fabric, which has obvious nano-yarn embroidery texture and good eyelet effect of weaving yarn holes under the conditions of high warp and high weft density.

A production process of jacquard fabric with nano-yarn embroidery effect comprises the following steps: the specification design, the fabric tissue design and the weaving on a machine, wherein in the specification design, a warp combination is composed of a large number of surface layer warps and a small number of inner layer warps, A wefts, B wefts and C wefts form a weft combination, the inner width of a finished product, the warp density and the effective warp number of the finished product are determined, in the weaving on the machine, the effective width of the machine is 287cm, the warp density and the weft density of the machine are respectively 112.8/cm and 114/cm, the weft inserting ratio of the A wefts, the B wefts and the C wefts is 1: 1, a single weaving shaft is adopted for weaving, a raised flower part is presented on the surface of the fabric, the flower part tissue adopts a heavy weft tissue, all warps are interwoven with the A wefts, the B wefts and the C wefts, the cycle number is controlled at 24, the cycle number of each group of the wefts is controlled at 4, the ground part of a weaving yarn hole is required to be formed on the fabric, the ground part tissue adopts a double-layer tissue, the inner layer weave adopts a plain weave, wherein the surface layer is formed by interweaving the surface layer warp yarns at the same position of weft A and weft B in an opening state, the inner layer is formed by interweaving the inner layer warp yarns at the other opening of weft C, and the weft C is also partially connected with the surface layer warp yarns to connect the surface layer and the inner layer into a ground part.

The ratio of the surface layer warp threads to the effective warp threads is 3: 4; the ratio of the warp threads of the inner layer to the effective warp threads is 1: 4.

The warp threads in the specification design step adopt 23dex mulberry silk color filaments f 1Z 800 × 2S 680, the first weft threads, the second weft threads and the third weft threads all adopt 23dex mulberry silk color filaments f 5S 380, the number of effective warp threads is 32375, the inner width of a finished product is 270cm, and the warp density and the weft density of the finished product are 119.9 pieces/cm and 117 pieces/cm respectively.

The invention has the following advantages and positive effects after adopting the technical scheme:

the weave of the jacquard part adopts a heavy weft weave, and after the number of cycles of the warp and the weft is optimally designed, the floating length of the weft is reasonably controlled, so that the defects that the full floating length of the weft easily causes the yarn hooking of the fabric and the generation of oblique phase grains of the cloth surface are avoided, the surface of the jacquard is slightly convex, and the quality of the yarn accepting embroidery of the jacquard part is well shown.

The ground tissue adopts a double-layer tissue, the warp is divided into two parts, the number of the surface layer warp and the inner layer warp is reasonably matched, the weaving yarn hole is expressed by a through hole tissue, and the first weft and the second weft are interwoven with the surface layer warp in an opening state, so that the weaving yarn hole effect of the ground surface layer is obvious, and a stable and stable yarn eye effect is generated when the cloth cover is in a standing state and viewed in the light, thereby solving the technical problem that the holes are not obvious under the conditions of high warp and high weft density; on the basis that the inner layer warp threads are interwoven with the third weft threads in a plain weave mode, the third weft threads are reasonably connected with the upper layer warp threads, and therefore the ground is not prone to crack in batches, and the yield of the fabric is improved.

Through the optimization design of the ground part structure, the weft knitting machine has the weft knitting function, the weft knitting machine does not need to be provided with the weft knitting machine independently, the combination number of the weft yarns can be reduced, the single weaving shaft weaves the ground part with double layers, the workload of warp inserting and weaving preparation can be reduced, and the defects of more broken warps and low efficiency of broken warp treatment in double-shaft weaving are avoided.

In a word, the invention uses the jacquard weaving process to produce the nano-yarn embroidery effect fabric, thereby greatly enriching the expression form of the jacquard fabric.

[ description of the drawings ]

FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of the warp threads of the ground surface layer 3/4 interwoven with weft threads A and B;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the weave of the ground warp threads interwoven with the weft carrier;

fig. 3 to 5 are organization diagrams of the jacquard part.

In the figure, the position of the upper end of the main shaft,

the warp structure point of the first weft and the warp is represented by ○;

◎ represents the warp structure point of weft and warp;

● represents the warp structure point of weft and warp;

the junction point of the weft yarns and the surface warp yarns is represented by △.

[ detailed description ] embodiments

A production process of jacquard fabric with nano-yarn embroidery effect comprises the following steps: specification design, fabric texture design and weaving on a machine.

Specification design: the warp combination is composed of a large number of surface layer warps and a small number of inner layer warps, the first wefts, the second wefts and the third wefts form the weft combination, and the inner width of a finished product, the warp and weft density of the finished product and the effective number of the warps are determined.

Organization design: the raised pattern part is presented on the surface of the fabric, the pattern part tissue adopts a heavy weft tissue, all warps are interwoven with the first weft, the second weft and the third weft, the number of the warp cycles is controlled at 24, the number of the cycles of each group of wefts is controlled at 4, namely the number of the cycles of three groups of wefts is controlled at 12.

In the ground part of the fabric needing to form weaving yarn holes, the ground part tissue adopts double-layer tissue, the surface layer tissue adopts through hole tissue, the inner layer tissue adopts plain weave tissue, wherein,

the surface layer is formed by interweaving the surface layer warps at the same positions of the first wefts and the second wefts in an opening state, the lining layer is formed by interweaving the third wefts and the lining layer warps at the other openings, and the third wefts are also partially connected with the surface layer warps to connect the surface layer and the lining layer into a ground part.

And after the organization design is finished, manufacturing the electronic pattern plate.

The raw material design is that warp yarns adopt 23dex mulberry silk (mature color) f 1Z 800 × 2S 680, and weft yarns A, B and C all adopt 23dex mulberry silk (mature color) f 5S 380.

The processing technology of the warp comprises the following steps:

raw materials → picking → soaking → airing → winding → doubling → twisting → steam box shaping → natural cooling → rewinding → dyeing → drying → color inspection → rewinding → moisture retention → skewer warp → weaving on machine → water softening finishing → finished product.

The weft processing technology comprises the following steps:

raw material → picking → soaking → air drying → winding → doubling → twisting → dyeing → drying → color inspection → rewinding → moisture retention → weaving on machine → water softening and finishing → finished product.

In this embodiment, the color of the warp is beige, and the colors of the weft A, weft B and weft C are respectively dark red, date red and black.

Weaving, namely, weaving equipment adopts Italy SU L ZER-6200/3200 computer rapier loom to match with French StaubliDX880-5120 electronic jacquard head, and the weaving preparation comprises the steps of installing a single weaving shaft on the computer rapier loom, controlling the upper shaft tension to be 27 +/-2 CN, controlling the number of effective warp heads to be 32375 (the number of warps on the left side and the right side is respectively 32), and installing a three-color weft bobbin on a bobbin frame.

The ratio of the surface layer warp threads to the effective warp threads is 3: 4; the ratio of the warp threads of the inner layer to the effective warp threads is 1: 4; the weft insertion ratio of weft A, weft B and weft C is 1: 1; the effective inner width of the machine is 287 cm.

The weaving process comprises the following steps: the tension of the upper machine is 23 +/-2 CN, the warp density of the upper machine is 112.8/cm, the reed density is 22.56 teeth/cm, the number of reeds penetrating is 5/tooth, and the weft density of the upper machine is 114/cm.

Inputting the electronic pattern plate into a controller of an electronic jacquard machine, starting a computer jacquard loom to weave, and obtaining a finished product after the loom is off.

After the finished product is discharged, the inner width of the finished product is 270cm, the thickness of the finished product is 40.47m/m (mum), and the warp density and weft density of the finished product are 119.9 pieces/cm and 117 pieces/cm respectively.

Claims

1. A production process of jacquard fabric with nano-yarn embroidery effect comprises the following steps: specification design, fabric organization design, weaving on a loom, in the specification design, the warp combination is composed of a large number of surface layer warps and a small number of inner layer warps, the first weft, the second weft and the third weft form the weft combination, the inner width of the finished product, the warp density of the finished product and the effective number of the warps are determined, in the weaving on the loom, the effective width of the loom is 287cm, the warp density and the weft density of the loom are 112.8 pieces/cm and 114 pieces/cm respectively, the picking proportion of the first weft, the second weft and the third weft is 1: 1, and the loom is adopted for weaving, which is characterized in that:

the raised pattern part is presented on the surface of the fabric, the pattern part tissue adopts a weft doubling tissue, all warps are interwoven with the first weft, the second weft and the third weft, the number of the warp cycles is controlled at 24, the number of the cycles of each group of wefts is controlled at 4,

2. The process for producing nano-yarn embroidery effect jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the ratio of the surface layer warp threads to the effective warp threads is 3: 4; the ratio of the warp threads of the inner layer to the effective warp threads is 1: 4.

3. The production process of the nano-yarn embroidery effect jacquard fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that warp yarns in the specification design step adopt 23dex mulberry silk color silk f 1Z 800 × 2S 680, weft yarns A, weft B and weft C all adopt 23dex mulberry silk color silk f 5S 380, the number of effective warp yarns is 32375, the inner width of a finished product is 270cm, and the warp density and weft density of the finished product are 119.9 pieces/cm and 117 pieces/cm respectively.