CN109023643B

CN109023643B - Weaving process of thin and ultra-high-density embroidery-imitated fabric

Info

Publication number: CN109023643B
Application number: CN201810928935.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 佟昀
Original assignee: Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Current assignee: Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Priority date: 2018-08-10
Filing date: 2018-08-10
Publication date: 2021-05-11
Anticipated expiration: 2038-08-10
Also published as: CN109023643A

Abstract

The invention discloses a weaving process of a thin and ultra-high density imitated embroidery fabric, which is characterized in that a pattern warp and a ground warp are respectively wound on different warp beams and weaving beams, are respectively warped and sized, are combined in a warp threading procedure, and are woven by adopting double shafts. The invention relates to weaving and production of thin and ultra-high density imitated embroidery yarn-dyed poplin, wherein ground warp is sized by a double-size groove, the grouting force is increased, and the heavy coating is increased to solve the problems of large warp density and unclear weaving opening. The double-shaft weaving mode is adopted, and if the number of the warp yarns is too small, the sectional warping and warp yarn mode of a warp sizing combination machine can be adopted. When the fine and special warp yarns are sized, the coating of hairiness is required, the wear resistance during weaving is increased, the weaving process is focused on opening and clearing the shed, and defects of 'reed marks' and 'weft shrinkage' are reduced.

Description

Weaving process of thin and ultra-high-density embroidery-imitated fabric

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of fabrics, and particularly relates to a weaving process of a thin and ultra-high-density imitated embroidery fabric.

Background

The yarn-dyed warp-cut poplin has the 'smooth, stiff and comfortable' style, deep blue and white longitudinal stripes are distributed at intervals, pink and dark blue two-color cut patterns are embedded in the warp direction, the appearance has an imitation embroidery effect, and the longitudinal stripes give people a sense of figure growth and are simple, elegant and quiet.

The product of the invention is a fine and ultra-high density plain weave fabric, the number of the yarn sections is small, the strength is low, the wear resistance is poor, the interweaving points are many, the warp density is large, the shed is not easy to be opened, the coverage coefficient of the partial warp yarns of the cut flower exceeds 150%, and the weaving difficulty is large.

Disclosure of Invention

The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to solve the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a weaving process of a thin and high-density imitated embroidery fabric.

The technical scheme is as follows: a weaving process of a thin and ultra-high density imitated embroidery fabric comprises the steps of respectively winding a colored warp and a ground warp on different warp beams and weaving beams, respectively warping and sizing, merging in a warp threading procedure, and adopting double-shaft weaving; wherein: the warp yarns have more ground warp yarns and small linear density, the warp yarn density is higher and the number of warp yarns is less by adopting the process of warping in batches and then slashing, and a sizing combination machine is adopted;

the specific operation is as follows:

(1) a warping process:

warping the ground warp and the pattern warp respectively during warping: after the ground warp adopts a batch warping machine, sizing is carried out again, and then a sizing and pattern discharging process is carried out; warping and sizing the warp by using a sizing combination machine;

a. plain ground warping: the plain JC11.7tex ground warp is warped by a Beningge ZDA high-speed batch warping machine which adopts a hydraulic variable motor to realize that the whole warp beam automatically reduces the rotating speed along with the increase of the winding radius, thereby realizing the constancy of the winding tension and the linear speed; warping of white ground warp: 601 × 5 axis +603 × 1 axis; warping and beaming of deep blue ground warp: 564 × 7 axes; before warping, the whole machine is carried out to ensure that the yarn channel is smooth and clean, the yarn pressing roller is parallel to the warp beam, the loose side shaft is avoided, the warping speed is 600m/min, and the winding density of the warp beam is 0.54g/cm³The single yarn dynamic running tension is 300 cN;

b. warp warping and slashing of the pattern: adopting an SGA800 warp-sizing combination machine, drying the separately slitted slashes, then warping the slashes one by one through a large roller, then collectively rewinding and combining the slashes to prepare a beam, setting the number of each skein to be 110, taking 4 skeins, and arranging the pink violet and navy blue warp yarns in each skein on a bobbin cradle according to the ratio of 1:1, arranging barrels; the breadth of the beam is 158 cm; the width of the warping is 39.5 cm; selecting 28 reed numbers of the fixed-width reed, wherein the number of reeds penetrated is 1; pure PVA is adopted for flower sizing at medium temperature of 70 ℃;

(2) sizing:

the ground warp is sized by adopting a GA308 seven-unit double-size-groove sizing machine, and the size formula is as follows: PVA-1799: 25kg, CD-DF 515C: 50kg, CD-PT: 20kg, CD-52: 5 kg; the solid content of the slurry is 12.6%, the sizing rate is 13.3%, the moisture regain is 7.2%, the viscosity of the slurry is 8.8 seconds, the value of the funnel water is 3.7 seconds, the pressure of a beam-side pulp pressing roller is 7KN, and the pressure of a drying room side is 16 KN;

due to the fact that the warp size patterning is fine strip spacing pattern fabric, a color separation layering method is adopted for warp size patterning, white warp yarns are 6-axis, deep blue warp yarns are 7-axis in the lower layer of the stranded wire, and the white ground warp and the deep blue ground warp respectively pass through different size grooves in the upper layer; the sizing machine is separated by a color separation stranded wire before doffing, so that the drafting and stopping worker can conveniently determine the color arrangement sequence, and the front telescopic reed of the sizing machine does not arrange patterns and freely falls off.

As an optimization: in drafting: the ground warp adopts 4 pages of healds to reduce the density of the heddles, and the drafting sequence is as follows:

16×(1,2,3,4),1,5,2,6,3,5,4,6,1,5,2,3,4,1,2,3,7,4,8,1,7,2,8,3,7,4,16×(1,2,3,4)，

1,9,2,10,3,9,4,10,1,9,2,3,4,1,2,3,11,4,12,1,11,2,12,3,11,4。

as an optimization: in the weaving process: the ZA209 air jet loom is adopted, the double-beam loom is used for weaving 12-page healds, plain weaves with more interweaving points are woven on 1-4 pages of healds, the end breakage rate is reduced, the warp of the flower is arranged on 5-12 pages of healds, the ground beam loom is arranged below the healds, the adjustable let-off with set tension is adopted, the passive let-off is adopted on the upper part of the warp of the flower, and the tension can be ensured to be consistent when the ground warp and the warp of the flower are woven by the double-;

adopting the process of higher back beam, higher tension and early opening, setting the height of the back beam to be +9 grids, and setting the front and back positions of the back beam to be +2 grids; the height of the warp stop frame is set to be-3 grids, the front position and the rear position are 9 grids, and the front edge of the warp stop frame is declined, so that the distance between the heald flat yarn sheet and the front edge of the warp stop frame is 3mm, a certain jitter of the yarn sheet is ensured, and accumulation of flying flowers on the yarn sheet is reduced;

the upper machine tension is 1560N, the opening time is 295 degrees, the weft insertion process adopts a low-pressure middle weft insertion process, the main jet pressure is 0.26MPa, and the auxiliary jet pressure is 0.32 MPa;

the main jet is 90-180 degrees, and the yarn blocking needle is 90-120 degrees; the auxiliary nozzles are 100-180 degrees in the 1 st group, 120-200 degrees in the 2 nd group, 140-220 degrees in the 3 rd group and 160-260 degrees in the 4 th group; the arrival angle of the weft yarn is 240 degrees, and in order to avoid the weft yarn from retracting at the opposite side of the shed to generate side weft shrinkage, the jet time of the fourth group of auxiliary nozzles is properly prolonged to 260 degrees.

Has the advantages that: the invention relates to weaving and production of thin and ultra-high density imitated embroidery yarn-dyed poplin, wherein ground warp is sized by a double-size groove, the grouting force is increased, and the heavy coating is increased to solve the problems of large warp density and unclear weaving opening. The double-shaft weaving mode is adopted, and if the number of the warp yarns is too small, the sectional warping and warp yarn mode of a warp sizing combination machine can be adopted. When the fine and special warp yarns are sized, the coating of hairiness is required, the wear resistance during weaving is increased, the weaving process is focused on opening and clearing the shed, and defects of 'reed marks' and 'weft shrinkage' are reduced.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a pattern layout of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a partial reverse side tissue view of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a layout of the pattern of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the reverse side of the blank of the present invention prior to cutting;

FIG. 5 is a schematic front view of an uncut pre-cut blank of the present invention;

figure 6 is a schematic representation of a cut-out fabric of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.

Examples

The invention relates to weaving and production of thin, ultra-high-density imitated embroidery yarn-dyed poplin, which is designed and woven on the basis of a jacquard weave, wherein during the after-finishing of a fabric, floating long lines of the jacquard weave are cut off, and the end parts of the remaining colorful yarn ends form a three-dimensional effect of a pile-shaped embroidery effect, and the characteristics and difficulties of the fabric are 'dense encryption and pattern shearing'. The flower-forming layout needs to consider that the flower spacing of the flower-cutting part is larger than the width of the cutting edge of the flower-cutting knife, so that the attractive appearance is ensured, and the convenience of feeding and flower-cutting of a flower-cutting machine is also considered. Because the weaving points of the warp yarns and the ground warp are different, the warp yarns are woven by adopting double weaving shafts, the warp sizing machine is used for sizing the few warp yarns, the linear density of the warp yarns in the pattern forming area is increased, the area with higher warp density is doubled to ensure that the pattern area has enough compactness, the colorful warp yarns are not loosened after the pattern is cut, the ground warp yarns are sized by the double sizing grooves, the grouting force is increased, the heavy coating is increased to solve the problems of large warp density and unclear weaving opening, and the air jet loom is used for double-shaft weaving to reduce the density of plain ground warp heddles, higher back beams, higher tension and early opening, thereby prolonging the jet time of the last group of auxiliary nozzles.

First, fabric design

1. Fabric style positioning

The fabric is a female shirt and skirt fabric in summer, and the designed style requires that the fabric is sloppy and agile in the middle. The texture requirement is compact and exquisite, the hand feeling requirement is smooth, and the three-dimensional embroidered appearance is achieved after weaving, clipping and finishing.

2. Yarn design

The fabric yarns are divided into ground warp yarns, and patterned warp and weft yarns.

2.1 the warp and weft design is based on the technical characteristics of fine and smooth cloth cover of fine poplin, and requires small density, high strength, less bright and clean hairiness and even yarn evenness of warp and weft. The ground warp and the weft adopt 11.7tex Xinjiang long stapled cotton combed yarns, and the non-figured ground warp and weft are interwoven to form the fabric main body. The fine fabric has high quality requirement on the ground warp and weft.

The measured average breaking strength of JC11.7tex single yarn is 185cN, strength irregularity is 11.5%, yarn levelness CV is 14.3%, detail is 15/km, slub is 45/km, neps are 97/km.

2.2 the warp design has the decoration effect, in order to ensure the covering effect of the warp on the adjacent ground warps and the requirement of full fluff after the flower is cut, the warp adopts the C18.2tex pure cotton yarn with higher linear density, most of the cotton yarn is cut after the warp finishing, and therefore, the requirements on evenness, detail and neps are not high. The average breaking strength of the warp yarns was found to be 273 cN.

The method comprises the following steps: warp combination JC11.7+18.2 tex. The warp yarn of the ground is JC11.7tex and the warp yarn of the flower is 18.2 tex. The ground warp yarns are distributed between the non-patterned areas and the patterned warps of the patterned areas. In the bloom area, the flower warp: ground warp 1: 1.

3. Fabric tightness design

According to the requirements of compact and smooth texture of the fabric, the tightness of the fabric is high, and the fabric body is a plain weave part without florescence, so that the tightness Ej of the ground weave without florescence is 61.5 percent and the tightness Ew of the weft is 43.4 percent.

4. Fabric density design

4.1 warp density of area

Namely, it is

And obtaining finished warp density Pj which is 486 pieces/10 cm.

4.2 the flower area warp density is in the warp-raising area, in order to increase the effect of covering the adjacent flower warp with the warp, increase the flower warp appearance rate and reduce the ground warp appearance rate, the density of the flower area should be doubled compared with the area, and then the flower area warp density reaches 972 roots/10 cm.

Although the warp tightness of the flower area is large, the flower warp yarns are in an overlapped state, the flower warp yarns are only interwoven with the weft yarns in the consolidation area, and the rest parts are in a warp float long line state without interweaving, so that the integral weaving difficulty of the fabric is not greatly increased.

4.3 the weft density of the fabric is determined according to the requirement that the weft tightness is 43.5 percent_w343 pieces/10 cm.

5. The width of the fabric is determined to be 145.5cm according to the tailoring requirement.

Second, design of fabric pattern

According to the style requirement of the fabric, the pattern design is mainly planar, and the local part is decorated with the embroidery imitating effect formed by the cut flowers. The color is stable and simple, and pink purple and dark blue flower meridians are embedded in thin strips with alternate blue and white. The flower type of the cut flower of the Tibet blue and the Pink-flower meridian requires that the cut flower is staggered up and down, adjacent left and right and distant, the fine and smooth part is clear, the quiet part is vivid, and the plane is sharp.

1. Pattern layout

As shown in figure 1, the design of the pattern adopts a longitudinal strip plain area as a main part, a warp raising area as an auxiliary part, the area adopts a blue and white strip interval arrangement mode, and the number of warps contained in each strip of blue and white is 5 respectively. The strip width is equal to the number of the strips/warp density is equal to 5/4.86 is equal to 1.02(mm),

the pink purple and navy blue warp-figured patterns are dotted between partial white stripes, and the warp-figured area has 5 warps and ground warps respectively with the arrangement ratio of 1: 1. The pattern of the reverse side of the pattern is shown in figure 2. After weaving, trimming off the back floating long thread through after finishing to form the effect of imitating embroidery on the front.

2. Relative distance

One flower (namely one circulation) has 34 warp color strips with blue and white alternated, wherein 30 blue and white strips are plain ground color strips, and each strip has 5 warp yarns; the 4 color stripes are warp-raising color stripes, each comprising 10 warp yarns, the warp yarns are embedded between white ground yarns, and the ground yarns and the warp yarns are 5 yarns respectively.

The farthest distance between the two same-color warp-raising strips is 18, the nearest distance between the upper and lower staggered same-color raising strips is 15,

the nearest interval of the colored stripes of different colors is 1 color stripe.

One flower number is plain strip number multiplied by 15+ warp strip number multiplied by 4 is 5 multiplied by 30+4 multiplied by 10 is 190

If the width of one flower is 34 × 1.02, 34.7(mm), if the distance is too small, the post-finishing cutting knife is not easy to feed, the flower is difficult to cut, and the weaving is difficult due to the large number of flowers.

Third, the main process design

1. One-reed dent calculation

Because the warp density ratio is equal to the warp flowering area: the plain weave area is 2:1, and the number of reeds penetrating in the plain weave area is 2 per tooth according to the pattern design; the number of the reed dents penetrated in the pattern forming area is 4 per dent.

The number of teeth in the reed occupied by the flower forming area in one flower is equal to one flower number of flower forming roots per reed, and the number of flowers per reed is equal to 10 multiplied by 4/4 and equal to 10.

The number of reed teeth in the plain area without blooming in one flower is equal to the number of the reed teeth in the plain area of one flower/the number of reeds in each reed is equal to 150/2 and 75.

The total number of the jacquard reed teeth is equal to the number of teeth in the jacquard area plus the number of teeth in the plain area is equal to 10+ 75-85.

2. Average number of penetration per reed

Average number of penetration of ground weave per reed is one figure warp number/one figure reed dent number

The number of the inner flat lines of one flower plus the number of the inner warp of one flower)/the number of teeth of one flower

2.24 pieces/tooth (30 × 5+4 × 10)/85.

3. Average warp density of finished product

The average warp density (root/10 cm) ═ one flower warp number/one flower width ═ 150+40)/34.7 ═ 547.

4. Number of full width warp

The number of selvage yarns is 44X 2, the average number of threads per reed is 2.375 in the known weave, and the number of threads per reed is 4 in the weave according to the requirements of width and stretching effect. It is known that the average warp density is 547 (root/10 cm) and the width of the door is 145.5 cm.

The total number of warps in the whole width is 547 × 145.5/10+88 × (1-2.24/4) ═ 7996.

5. Flower splitting process

In order to ensure that the raised pattern tissue in weaving is not close to the selvedge, and to ensure that the pattern is symmetrical as much as possible, the warping processing is convenient, and the subsequent finishing and the splicing are carried out, the pattern splitting treatment is needed.

The number of full width flowers is (number of full width-number of side yarn)/number of one flower warp yarn is (7996-88)/180 is 43.93, and the number of added flowers and head is corrected to be 44 flowers, and the number of head is 180 x (1-0.93) is 12. Arranging the split warp yarns:

(30 plain flowers in 30 pieces + 10 pieces in pink purple colored area + 10 pieces in plain flowers area +5 pieces in navy blue colored area + 70 pieces in plain flowers area + 10 pieces in pink purple colored area +5 pieces in plain flowers area + 10 pieces in navy blue colored area + 30 pieces in plain flowers area) × 44 flowers, and 12 pieces at the end of the last flower.

6. Width of grey cloth and reeding width

Determining the width of the grey cloth as the width of the finished product/(1-dyeing and finishing width shrinkage) as 145.5/(1-6.5%) as 156cm according to the dyeing and finishing width shrinkage of 6.5%

And determining the reed-threading width to be 156.6 according to the weft weaving shrinkage and the width of the machined waste edge obtained by the pioneer test.

7. Metric reed wire number

Full width reed tooth number equal to full width flower number x flower tooth number-reducing head tooth number + side yarn tooth number equal to 44 × 85-12/2+88/4 equal to 3756

Metric reed number (3756/156.6) × 10 (240) ═ full reed number/reeding width (3756/156.6)

8. Color warp arrangement

The color warp arrangement was divided into plain areas and warp-bloomed areas, and one color warp arrangement cycle was as shown in table 1:

TABLE 1 color channels arrangement Table

The above table shows the half-color warp alignment cycles, i.e. 2 identical color warps are aligned in one flower, according to the pattern and splitting results.

White ground warp number (white warp number in one flower) x flower number + side yarn number (5 × 6+ 5) × 2 × 44+88 (3608)

The root number of dark blue ground warp is equal to the root number of dark blue in one flower multiplied by the flower number-reduced number is equal to (5 × 6+5+5) × 2 × 44-12 is 3948

Root number of purple powder in Chinese yam, number of flower in Chinese yam, 5 × 44 ═ 220

The root number of Tibetan blue flower is one flower, the blue root number is hidden, the flower number is 5 × 44, 220

Totaling: 7996, the total number of warps is calculated in accordance with the above-mentioned total number of warps.

Fourthly, the key of the main production technology

The product is a fine and ultra-high density plain weave fabric, the number of yarn sections is small, the strength is low, the wear resistance is poor, the number of interweaving points is large, the warp density is large, shed opening is not easy to be clear, the coverage coefficient of partial warp yarns of the cut-out is over 150%, and the weaving difficulty is large.

Since the difference between the weaving points of the warp yarns and the ground warp yarns is large and the warp yarn tension is different due to the difference between the weaving shrinkage, the warp yarns and the ground warp yarns must be respectively wound on different warp beams and weaving beams, respectively warped and sized, combined in a warp drawing-in process and woven by using double shafts.

The warp yarns have more ground warps and small linear density, the warp yarns have higher density and less roots by adopting the process of warping in batches and then slashing, and a sizing combination machine is suitable for being adopted.

1. Warping process

The ground warp and the flower warp are warped respectively during warping. And the ground warp adopts a batch warping machine, then slashes are carried out, then a warp sizing and pattern discharging process is carried out, and the pattern warp adopts a sizing combination machine for warping and slashing.

1.1 plain ground warp beaming plain JC11.7tex ground warp using a Benning grid (Benningger) ZDA high speed batch beaming machine using a hydraulic variable displacement motor to achieve automatic reduction of the beam speed as the winding radius increases, thereby achieving constant winding tension and linear speed.

Warping of white ground warp: 601 × 5 axis +603 × 1 axis; warping and beaming of deep blue ground warp: 564 × 7 axes.

Before warping, the whole machine is carried out to ensure that the yarn channel is smooth and clean, the yarn pressing roller is parallel to the warp beam, the loose side shaft is avoided, the warping speed is 600m/min, and the winding density of the warp beam is 0.54g/cm³The single yarn dynamic running tension is 300 cN.

1.2 the warp of the flower warp warping and the number of warp of the slashing are less, adopt SGA800 warp sizing combination machine, after the sizing yarn of separate segmentation is dried, warp by the big cylinder band by band again, the ribbon number of the rewinding and combining of making into beam of a loom collectively, because the warp number of the warp of the flower beam of a loom is less, should not be too few for the number of the band of the warping of the segmentation to guarantee that the warp is evenly dispersed on the beam of a loom band by band, every hank number sets to 110, take 4 hanks, the pink violet and navy blue warp according to 1 in the bobbin cradle in every hank: 1 row of barrels. Thereby, when weaving, the flower warp is evenly distributed, and diagonal drawing is avoided.

The width (cm) of the loom beam is equivalent to reeding width +2 is equivalent to 156+2 is equivalent to 158;

and 28, selecting the reed number of the fixed-width reed, then,

pure PVA is adopted for the warp, sizing is carried out at the medium temperature of 70 ℃, and due to the small covering coefficient of slashing and the good film-forming property of PVA, the sticking rate of slashing hairiness and the slashing wear resistance can be effectively increased, and the method is particularly favorable for a textured consolidation area with high fabric tightness.

2. Sizing process

As the number of JC11.7tex ground warps is large, 13 shafts are needed for warping, the linear density of warp yarns is small, the ground warps are sized by adopting a GA308 seven-unit double-size-groove sizing machine, the purpose is to reduce the covering coefficient of sizing yarns, increase the penetration and the covering, stick down hairiness and size the process route: "heavy coating, soaking, light pressing, heavy pressing, high concentration, low viscosity, moisture retention, multiple twisting, and tight winding". Slurry formula: PVA-1799: 25kg, CD-DF 515C: 50kg, CD-PT: 20kg, CD-52: 5 kg. The measured slurry solid content is 12.6%, the slurry sizing rate is 13.3%, the moisture regain is 7.2%, the slurry viscosity is 8.8 seconds (the funnel water value is 3.7 seconds), the pressure of a slurry roller is 7KN on the beam side, and the pressure of a drying room is 16 KN.

Due to the fact that the fabric is a fine strip spacing pattern fabric, the warp sizing and pattern arranging adopt a color separation layering method, the white warp yarns are 6 shafts, the dark blue warp yarns are 7 shafts on the lower layer of the stranded wire, and the white ground warp and the dark blue ground warp respectively walk in different size grooves on the upper layer, so that the problem that the white ground warp is stained in the size grooves by the dark blue ground warp can be effectively solved. The sizing machine is separated by the color separation stranded wires before doffing, so that the drafting and stopping workers can conveniently determine the color arrangement sequence, the pattern arrangement is not carried out at the telescopic reed part in front of the sizing machine, the reed is freely dropped, and the production efficiency is high.

3. Drafting and pattern plate

Because the ground warp has a large number, the linear density is small, the plain weave interweaving is frequent, and in order to reduce the friction between the warp yarns and the heddles and reduce the broken warp, the ground warp adopts 4 pages of heddles to reduce the heddle density. The drafting sequence is as follows: 16 × (1,2,3,4),1,5,2,6,3,5,4,6,1,5,2,3,4,1,2,3,7,4,8,1,7,2,8,3,7,4,16 × (1,2,3,4),1, 9,2,10,3,9,4,10,1,9,2,3,4,1,2,3,11,4,12,1,11,2,12,3,11, 4.

The texture map is shown in FIG. 3.

4. Weaving

The ZA209 air jet loom is adopted, a double-beam 12-page heald weaving mode is adopted, plain weaves with more interweaving points are woven on 1-4 pages of healds to reduce the end breakage rate, the warp yarns are woven on 5-12 pages of healds, the ground beam is arranged below the heald loom, the adjustable let-off with set tension is adopted on the warp loom shaft, the passive let-off is adopted on the warp loom shaft, the double-beam weaving mode can ensure that the tension is consistent when the ground warp yarns and the warp yarns are woven, if the single-beam weaving mode is adopted, the warp yarns are loosened due to less interweaving points, warp stop sheets drop, and the vehicle is.

Because the variety tightness is high, the requirement on beating-up force is also high, the opening of the high-density fabric is not easy to be clear, and the process of higher back beam, higher tension and earlier opening is adopted. The adoption of a higher back beam height ensures that the tension of the warp yarns on the upper layer is slightly loose, which is beneficial to the warp yarns of the high-density poplin fabric to be close to each other and is beneficial to eliminating reed marks; the lower layer warp tension is large, which is beneficial to tightening weft yarns, but the rear beam is not too high, otherwise, the lower layer tension is too large, which easily causes breakage of fine and special warp yarns. And finally, determining that the height of the back beam is set to be +9 grids, and setting the front position and the rear position of the back beam to be +2 grids. The height of the warp stop frame is set to be-3 grids, the front position and the rear position are 9 grids, and the front edge of the warp stop frame is declined, so that the distance between the yarn sheet at the level of the heald surface and the front edge of the warp stop frame is 3mm, a certain jitter of the yarn sheet is ensured, and the accumulation of flying flowers on the yarn sheet is reduced.

The upper machine tension is set to be 1560N, the opening time is set to be 295 degrees, the earlier opening is beneficial to shed opening and clearing, the shed height is large during weft insertion, and the weft shrinkage defects easily generated by high-warp density fabrics are reduced. The weft insertion process adopts a low-pressure medium weft insertion process, the main jet pressure is 0.26MPa, and the auxiliary jet pressure is 0.32 MPa.

The main jet is 90-180 degrees, and the yarn blocking needle is 90-120 degrees; the auxiliary nozzles are 100-180 degrees in group 1, 120-200 degrees in group 2, 140-220 degrees in group 3, and 160-260 degrees in group 4. The arrival angle of the weft yarn is 240 degrees, and in order to avoid the weft yarn from retracting at the opposite side of the shed to generate side weft shrinkage, the jet time of the fourth group of auxiliary nozzles is properly prolonged to 260 degrees.

The front and back surfaces of the grey fabric before the clipping and the fabric front surface before the clipping and the fabric appearance effect after the clipping and the clipping are shown in figure 4 and figure 5 respectively.

The invention designs and weaves the thin extra-high density warp-direction embroidery-imitated fabric, mainly pay attention to the following process technology key:

1. the distance between the cotton-raising areas after the cotton-cutting is not suitable to be too small, otherwise the feeding difficulty of the cotton-cutting machine is caused, and meanwhile, the distance is too small, the weaving difficulty of grey cloth is increased due to too dense cotton-raising areas; too large space results in less warp and less warp yarn, which is not favorable to the uniform distribution of warp yarn on the warp yarn shaft and uneven tension.

2. The warp density of the flower is higher than the ground warp density, and the density of the flower area is higher, so that the cut flower is favorable for plump fluff.

3. The double-shaft weaving mode is adopted, and if the number of the warp yarns is too small, the sectional warping and warp yarn mode of a warp sizing combination machine can be adopted.

4. When the fine and special warp yarns are sized, the coating of hairiness is required, the wear resistance during weaving is increased, the weaving process is focused on opening and clearing the shed, and defects of 'reed marks' and 'weft shrinkage' are reduced.

Claims

1. A weaving process of a thin and ultra-high density imitated embroidery fabric is characterized in that: the weaving and production of the thin, ultra-high-density imitated embroidery yarn-dyed poplin are designed and woven on the basis of a jacquard weave, when the fabric is subjected to after-finishing, the long and floating lines of the jacquard weave are cut off, the end parts of the head of the remaining colored yarns form a three-dimensional effect of a pile-shaped embroidery effect, and the characteristics and difficulties of the fabric are 'dense encryption and pattern shearing'; the flower-forming layout needs to consider that the flower spacing of the flower-cutting part is larger than the width of the cutting edge of the flower-cutting knife, so that the attractive appearance is ensured, and the convenience of feeding and flower-cutting of a flower-cutting machine is also considered; because the weaving points of the warp yarns and the ground warp are different, the warp yarns are woven by adopting double weaving shafts, the warp sizing machine is used for sizing the few warp yarns, the linear density of the warp yarns in a pattern forming area is increased, the area with higher warp density is doubled to ensure that the pattern area has enough compactness, the colorful warp yarns are not loosened after the pattern is cut, the ground warp yarns are sized by adopting double sizing grooves, the grouting force is increased, the heavy coating is increased to solve the problems of large warp density and unclear weaving opening, and the air jet loom is used for double-shaft weaving to reduce the density of plain ground warp heddles, higher back beams, higher tension and early opening and prolong the spraying time of the last group of auxiliary nozzles;

one) fabric design

1) Fabric style positioning:

the fabric is a female shirt and skirt fabric in summer, and the designed style requires that the fabric is sloppy and agile; the texture requirement is compact and exquisite, the hand feeling requirement is smooth, and the three-dimensional embroidered appearance is formed after weaving, clipping and finishing;

2) yarn design

The fabric yarn is divided into a ground warp, a flower warp and a weft;

2.1 ground warp and weft yarn design: according to the technical characteristics of even and fine cloth cover of the fine and special poplin, the warp and weft yarns are required to have small density, high strength, little bright and clean hairiness and uniform yarn levelness; the ground warp and the weft adopt 11.7tex Xinjiang long stapled cotton combed yarns, and the non-figured ground warp and weft are interwoven to form a fabric main body; the fine fabric has high quality requirements on the ground warp and weft;

the measured average breaking strength of JC11.7tex single yarn is 185cN, the strength irregularity is 11.5%, the yarn levelness CV is 14.3%, the detail is 15/km, the slub is 45/km, the neps are 97/km;

2.2 design of flower warp: the warp has a decoration effect, in order to ensure the covering effect of the warp on the adjacent ground warps and the requirement of plump fluff after shearing, the warp adopts C18.2tex pure cotton yarn with higher linear density, most of the warp is sheared after finishing, and therefore, the requirements on evenness, detail and neps are not high; actually measuring the average breaking strength of the warp yarn to be 273 cN;

the method comprises the following steps: the warp combination JC11.7+18.2tex, the ground warp JC11.7tex and the flower warp 18.2 tex; the ground warp is distributed between the non-pattern area and the pattern warp of the pattern area, and in the pattern area, the pattern warp:

ground warp is 1: 1;

3) fabric tightness design

According to the requirements of compact and smooth texture of the fabric, the tightness of the fabric is high, and the fabric body is a plain weave part without florescence, so that the tightness Ej of the ground weave without florescence is 61.5 percent in the warp direction, and the tightness Ew of the ground weave without florescence is 43.5 percent in the weft direction;

4) fabric density design

4.1 area warp density: the warp density Pj of the finished product is 486 pieces/10 cm;

4.2 flower area warp density: in the warp-raising area, in order to increase the effect of covering adjacent warps by the warps, improve the warp development rate of the flowers and reduce the ground warp development rate, the density of the flower area is doubled compared with the area, and the warp density of the flower area reaches 972 roots/10 cm;

the warp tightness of the flower area is 153%, although the warp tightness of the flower area is very large, the flower warp yarns are in an overlapped state, the flower warp yarns are only interwoven with the weft yarns in the consolidation area, and the rest parts are in a non-interwoven warp float long thread state, so that the integral weaving difficulty of the fabric is not greatly increased;

4.3 weft density of the fabric: determining weft density P according to the requirement that the weft tightness is 43.5 percent_w343 pieces/10 cm;

5) fabric width: determining the width of a finished product to be 145.5cm according to the tailoring requirement of the clothing;

two) design of fabric pattern

According to the style requirement of the fabric, the pattern design is mainly planar, and the local part is decorated with the embroidery imitating effect formed by the cut flowers; the color is stable and simple, and pink purple and dark blue flower warps are embedded in the thin strips with alternate blue and white; the flower type of the cut flower of the Tibet blue and the Pink flower channel requires that the cut flower is staggered up and down, adjacent left and right and distant, the fine and smooth part is clear, the quiet part is agile, and the plane is three-dimensional and sharp;

1) pattern layout

The design of the pattern adopts a longitudinal strip plain weave area as a main part, a warp raising area as an auxiliary part, the area adopts a blue and white strip interval arrangement mode, the number of warp yarns contained in each strip of blue and white is respectively 5, the strip width is equal to the number of warp yarns/warp density is equal to 5/4.86 is equal to 1.02(mm), pink purple and navy cyan warp raising patterns are dotted between partial white strips, the warp raising area and ground warp are respectively 5, and the arrangement ratio is 1: 1; after weaving, trimming off the back floating long thread through after finishing to form the front embroidery imitating effect;

2) relative distance

34 warp yarn color strips with blue and white alternated are shared by one flower, wherein 30 blue and white strips are plain ground color strips, and each strip comprises 5 warp yarns; the 4 color stripes are warp-raising color stripes, each color stripe comprises 10 warp yarns, the flower warp yarns are embedded between the white ground yarns, and the ground yarns and the flower warp yarns are respectively 5 warp yarns;

the farthest interval distance of the two same-color warp-raising color strips is 18, the nearest distance of the staggered same-color warp-raising color strips is 15, and the nearest interval of the different-color warp-raising color strips is 1 color strip;

one flower root number is plain strip root number multiplied by 15+ warp strip root number multiplied by 4 is 5 multiplied by 30+4 multiplied by 10 is 190;

if the width of one flower is 34 multiplied by 1.02 which is 34.7(mm), if the distance is too small, the post-finishing cutting knife is not easy to feed, the flower is difficult to cut, and the weaving is difficult due to the large number of flower warps;

III) Main Process design

1) One-reed dent calculation

Because the warp density ratio is equal to the warp flowering area: the plain weave area is 2:1, and the number of reeds penetrating in the plain weave area is 2 per tooth according to the pattern design; the number of the reed dents penetrating through the pattern forming area is 4 per dent;

the number of teeth of a reed occupied by the flower forming area in one flower is equal to the number of flower forming roots of one flower per reed, and the number of the flower forming roots per reed is equal to 10 multiplied by 4/4 and equal to 10;

the number of reed teeth in the plain area without blooming in one flower is equal to the number of the reed teeth in the plain area of one flower/the number of reeds in each area is equal to 150/2 which is equal to 75;

the total number of the jacquard reed teeth is equal to the number of teeth in the jacquard area and the number of teeth in the plain area is equal to 10+75 and equal to 85;

2) average number of penetration per reed

The average number of threads per reed of the ground weave is one pattern warp yarn number/one pattern reed dent number (the number of the inner pattern of one pattern plus the number of the inner warp yarn of one pattern)/one pattern tooth number is (30 multiplied by 5+4 multiplied by 10)/85 is 2.24 threads/dent;

3) average warp density of finished product

The average warp density (root/10 cm) ═ one flower warp number/one flower width ═ 150+40)/34.7 ═ 547;

4) number of full width warp

According to the requirements of width and stretching action, the number of side yarns is 44 multiplied by 2, the average penetration number of each reed of the known ground weave is 2.375, and the penetration number of each reed of the side weave is 4; it is known that the average warp density is 547 (roots/10 cm) and the width of the door is 145.5 cm;

the total number of warps in the whole width is 547 × 145.5/10+88 × (1-2.24/4) or 7996;

5) flower splitting process

In order to ensure that the raised tissues in weaving are not close to the selvedge, and to ensure that the patterns are symmetrical as much as possible, the warping processing is convenient, and the subsequent finishing and the splicing are carried out, the splitting treatment is needed;

the number of full width flower (number of full width-number of side yarn)/number of one flower warp (7996-88)/180 (43.93) is added with flower and head, namely, the number is corrected to be 44 flower, and the number of head is 180 (1-0.93) and is 12; arranging the split warp yarns:

(30 plain weaves + 10 pink purple flowered areas + 10 plain weaved areas +5 navy cyan flowered areas + 70 plain weaves + 10 pink purple flowered areas +5 plain weaved areas + 10 navy cyan flowered areas + 30 plain weaves) x 44 flowers, and the end of the last flower is reduced by 12;

6) width of grey cloth and reeding width

Determining the width of the grey cloth as the width of a finished product/(1-dyeing and finishing width shrinkage) as 145.5/(1-6.5%) as 156cm according to the dyeing and finishing width shrinkage of 6.5%;

determining the reed-threading width to be 156.6 according to the weft weaving shrinkage and the width of the machine-loading slitter edge obtained by a pioneer test;

7) metric reed wire number

The number of teeth of the whole reed is equal to the number of full flowers multiplied by one flower tooth, the number of teeth occupied by the reducer plus the number of teeth occupied by the side yarn is equal to 44 multiplied by 85-12/2+88/4 is equal to 3756;

the official reed number is (3756/156.6) × 10 is (240);

8) color warp arrangement

TABLE 1 color channels arrangement Table

According to the results of the pattern and the splitting, the upper table shows the half-color warp arrangement cycle, namely 2 same color warps are arranged and circulated in one flower;

white ground warp root number (white root number in one flower) x flower number + side yarn root number (5 × 6+ 5) × 2 × 44+88 (3608);

the root number of the dark blue ground warp is equal to the root number of the dark blue in one flower multiplied by the flower number-reduced number is equal to (5 multiplied by 6+5+5) × 2 multiplied by 44-12 is equal to 3948;

the root number of the powder purple flower is equal to the purple root number of the powder in the flower, and the flower number is equal to 5 multiplied by 44 equal to 220;

the root number of the Tibetan blue flower is one flower, and the root number of the Tibetan blue flower is 5 multiplied by 44, which is 220;

totaling: 7996, the total number of warps is calculated according to the total number of warps;

fourthly), specific operation:

respectively winding the warp yarns and the ground yarns on different warp beams and weaving beams, respectively warping and sizing, merging in a warp drawing-in process, and adopting double-shaft weaving; the process of warping in batches and then slashing is adopted, the warp yarn density is high, the number of warp yarns is small, and a sizing combination machine is suitable;

1) warping process

Warping ground warp and slashing warp respectively during warping, wherein the ground warp adopts a batch warping machine, then slashing is carried out, then a warp sizing and slashing process is carried out, and the slashing warp adopts a sizing combination machine for warping and slashing;

a. plain ground warping: the plain weave JC11.7tex is warped by adopting a Benning Ger (Bennniinger) ZDA high-speed batch warping machine, and the machine adopts a hydraulic variable motor to realize that the warping shaft automatically reduces the rotating speed along with the increase of the winding radius, thereby realizing the constant winding tension and linear speed; warping of white ground warp: 601 × 5 axis +603 × 1 axis; warping and beaming of deep blue ground warp: 564 × 7 axes; before warping, the whole machine is carried out to ensure that the yarn channel is smooth and clean, the yarn pressing roller is parallel to the warp beam, the loose side shaft is avoided, the warping speed is 600m/min, and the winding density of the warp beam is 0.54g/cm₃The single yarn dynamic running tension is 300 cN;

b. warp warping and slashing of the pattern: adopting an SGA800 warp-sizing combination machine, drying the separately slitted slashes, then warping the slashes one by one through a large roller, then collectively rewinding and combining the slashes to prepare a beam, setting the number of each skein to be 110, taking 4 skeins, and arranging the pink violet and navy blue warp yarns in each skein on a bobbin cradle according to the ratio of 1:1, arranging barrels; the width of the beam is 158 cm; the width of the warping is 39.5 cm; selecting 28 reed numbers of the fixed-width reed, wherein the number of reeds penetrated is 1; pure PVA is adopted for flower sizing at medium temperature of 70 ℃;

2) sizing process

The ground warp is sized by adopting a GA308 seven-unit double-size-groove sizing machine, and the size formula is as follows: PVA-1799: 25kg, CD-DF 515C: 50kg, CD-PT: 20kg, CD-52: 5 kg; actually measuring the solid content of the slurry to be 12.6%, the sizing rate to be 13.3%, the moisture regain to be 7.2%, the viscosity of the slurry to be 8.8 seconds, the water value of a funnel to be 3.7 seconds, the pressure of a sizing roller on the beam side to be 7KN and the pressure of a drying room side to be 16 KN;

due to the fact that the warp size patterning is fine strip spacing pattern fabric, a color separation layering method is adopted for warp size patterning, white warp yarns are 6-axis, deep blue warp yarns are 7-axis in the lower layer of the stranded wire, and the white ground warp and the deep blue ground warp respectively pass through different size grooves in the upper layer; the sizing is separated by a color separation stranded wire before doffing, so that the drafting and stopping worker can conveniently determine the color arrangement sequence, and the pattern arrangement is not carried out at the front telescopic reed of the sizing machine in the method, and the reed is freely dropped;

3) drafting and pattern plate

Because the ground warp has more ground warps, small linear density and frequent plain weave interweaving, in order to reduce the friction between the warp yarns and the heddles and reduce broken warps, the ground warp adopts 4 pages of heddles to reduce the density of the heddles; the drafting sequence is as follows: 16 × (1,2,3,4),1,5,2,6,3,5,4,6,1,5,2,3,4,1,2,3,7,4,8,1,7,2,8,3,7,4,16 × (1,2,3,4),1, 9,2,10,3,9,4,10,1,9,2,3,4,1,2,3,11,4,12,1,11,2,12,3,11, 4;

4) weaving

The ZA209 air jet loom is adopted, a double-beam 12-page heald weaving mode is adopted, wherein plain weaves with more interweaving points are woven on 1-4 pages of healds to reduce the end breakage rate, the pattern warps are arranged on 5-12 pages of healds, the ground beam is arranged below the heald loom, the adjustable let-off with set tension is adopted, the negative let-off is adopted on the pattern beam, and the tension is consistent when the ground warp and the pattern warp are woven by the double-beam weaving mode;