CN107475856B

CN107475856B - Design and production process of star rain crepe fabric

Info

Publication number: CN107475856B
Application number: CN201710804928.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 瞿建新
Original assignee: Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Current assignee: Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Priority date: 2017-09-08
Filing date: 2017-09-08
Publication date: 2020-08-25
Anticipated expiration: 2037-09-08
Also published as: CN107475856A

Abstract

The invention discloses a production process of a star rain crepe fabric, which comprises the following steps: spooling, warping, slashing, drafting and weaving. The woven star rain crepe fabric does not need to carry out heavy twist processing on yarns, so that the production cost is far lower than that of common crepe; in order to reduce the sinking yarn during weaving, the sinking yarn problem is solved by a series of measures of reducing the movement of a heald frame, reducing the height of a heald, increasing the tension of a loom, improving the height of a back beam and the height of a warp stopping frame and the like; in order to reduce the occurrence of the sparse road and the driving defect, the generation of the sparse road and the driving defect is prevented by measures of changing a warp broken end parking space, prohibiting the inching during the driving and the like; by improving the height of the cloth supporting plate, the defects of yarn hooking on the back surface are avoided. Through the series of processes and technical measures, the weaving is ensured to be smoothly carried out, and good economic benefits are obtained for enterprises.

Description

Design and production process of star rain crepe fabric

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of fabric weaving, and particularly relates to a design and a production process of a star rain crepe fabric.

Background

The traditional crepe uses strong twist yarn and yarn with different yarn counts and different raw materials to produce different shrinkage rates to crepe the cloth surface. The star rain crepe fabric is different from the traditional crepe, common warp and weft yarns, the same raw materials and the same yarn count are utilized, a card pattern of the fabric is a plain weave, the warp and weft yarns generate different interweaving times in different places by changing the drafting sequence, so that the shrinkage is different, the fabric loses tension after being off the loom, the warp and weft yarns with more interweaving times shrink, and the yarns with less interweaving times are creped to form the crepe. The woven crepe is called as a star rain crepe because the cloth cover forms a starry star like a clear night after finishing. The fabric style of the star rain crepe is similar to that of other crepes, but the cost of the fabric is greatly reduced due to the reduction of the processing procedure of the hard twisted yarn, and better economic benefit is obtained for enterprises. The existing star rain crepe fabric is mainly used as home textile fabric and underwear at home, is sold to Japan and is mainly used for being taken as a link.

Disclosure of Invention

The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to solve the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a design of a star rain crepe fabric and a production process thereof.

The technical scheme is as follows: a design for a star rain crepe fabric, the design specifications for the fabric being: the width of the grey cloth is 251cm, the warp density of the grey cloth is 327 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the grey cloth is 224 pieces/10 cm, the metric reed number is 104, the width of the loom reed is 262cm, the ground tissue is 3 pieces per reed, the total warp number is 8158 pieces per reed, the weft density gear is 38T, and two teeth are propped each time;

the weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarn; there are two types of warp yarns: a represents an 18tex bleached yarn, B represents an 18tex deep blue yarn, the colour arrangement being: (1A, 1B, 2A) × 180; (1A, 3B, 1A, 2B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 56, (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 72; (1A, 3B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 97; (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 16; (1A, 3B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 56; (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 76; (1A, 3B,3A,1B, 1A, 3B) × 56; (1B, 2A) × 233; (3A, 1B) 376; in the full-width fabric, 3803 yarns A, 4307 yarns B, 48 edge yarns and 8158 total warp yarns are arranged.

A production process of a star rain crepe fabric comprises the following steps:

(1) winding machine

Selecting a 1332M type winder, wherein the warp yarn and the weft yarn are 18tex yarns, the winding speed is 575M/min, the weight of an additional tension gasket of the winding is 11 g, and a handheld air splicer is used for connecting after the ends are broken;

(2) warping machine

An SGA211 type high-speed batch warping machine is used, the warping speed is controlled to be 500m/min, a double-column disc type tension device is configured, the size of additional tension is adjusted by changing the surrounding angle of yarns to a tension disc cylinder, and the whole warping additional tension can be divided into 11 grades at most; when the 18tex cotton yarn is warped, the additional tension configuration is divided into 4 sections, the tension is sequentially set to 7 grades, 6 grades, 5 grades and 4 grades from front to back, and in order to improve the uniformity of the tension of the yarn slices, collective creeling is used;

the capacity of the bobbin creel is 720; the total number of the whole width warp is 8158, wherein 3803 of 18tex bleaching yarns, 4307 of 18tex deep blue yarns and 48 edge yarns are warped together with the bleaching yarns; 3803 +48 bleached yarns with 6 shafts, 641 x 1+642 x 5 matched with the shafts, 4307 dark blue yarns with 6 shafts matched with 717 x 1+718 x 5 matched with the shafts;

(3) sizing

Selecting an ASG365 type two-unit slasher, wherein the front-pressing process is a light-weight and rear-weight process, the pressure of a front pressing roller is controlled at 7KN, and the pressure of a rear pressing roller is controlled at 16 KN; the slurry formula is as follows: 70% of modified starch, 30% of AS-02 slurry and 10-11S of slurry viscosity; the sizing rate is 10 percent, the slashing speed is 50-55m/min, the temperature of a size box is controlled at 98 ℃, the slashing moisture regain is controlled at 7.0 percent, and the post-waxing rate is 0.2 percent;

(4) drafting harness

6 pages of healds are used, the sequence of the healds is 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 6, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, and the edge yarns are worn on 1-2 pages of the healds; the card drawing is a plain weave, weft weight flat weave is formed at the positions with the drafting sequence of 1, 3, 5, 2, 4 and 6, and the interweaving times are few; plain weave is formed at the positions with the drafting sequence of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, and the interweaving times are more;

(5) weaving

Selecting a GA788-300 type rapier loom for weaving, wherein the rotating speed of the loom is 150 r/min;

warp broken-end parking space: the warp broken-end parking space is adjusted to 75 degrees, so that driving defects are effectively avoided; after the warp yarn is broken, the distance from the reed to the cloth fell is ensured to be more than 2.5 cm;

the early opening is used, the opening time is 280 degrees, and the early opening is clearly beneficial to a shed;

when the fabric is produced, the weft insertion sword enters the shed when the effective height of the shed is 5-5.5cm at the left cloth edge; the effective height of the shed is about 4-4.5cm and enters the shed;

two weft selecting rods are used for weft yarns, the weft yarns are 18tex bleached yarns, the colors of the yarns between the two bobbins are different, two weft accumulators are used for alternately inserting weft yarns to prevent weft color shifts from being generated, and weft stop can be reduced;

the heald frame moves: when the star rain crepe fabric is produced, the fabric tissue is that weft weight and plain weave alternately appear, the shrinkage rate of the warp is different, the star rain crepe fabric requires single-shaft production again, the warp with small shrinkage rate is easy to generate sinking, warp direction error parking is caused, measures are taken during the preparation process, the elongation of the warp is reduced, thereby the sinking of the warp is reduced, and the process measures for reducing the elongation of the warp are as follows: reducing the moving distance of the heald frame, and adjusting the moving distance of the heald frame by two grids compared with the conventional variety;

height of the heald frame: the heald frame has small stroke, ensures that the distance from the lower layer warp to the sley is kept unchanged at 1-2mm when the shed is fully opened, and adjusts the height of the heald frame by taking the distance as a standard, so the height of the heald frame is lower than that of the conventional heald frame;

height of the back beam: the height of the back beam is 50mm, the conventional variety is adopted, the height of the used back beam is generally 70mm when plain weave fabric is produced, when the fabric is produced, a high back beam process is adopted, the tension difference of the upper layer warp and the lower layer warp is large, and the upper layer warp is large in buckling during weaving, so that the fabric is more beneficial to creping after the fabric is taken off a machine;

height of the warp stop frame: the height of a conventional let-off stand is: when in heald flat, the guide rod in the warp stop frame is connected with the connecting line of the back beam and the heddle eye, when the fabric is produced, the height of the warp stop frame needs to be higher a little, and the warp stop frame is higher, so that the jumping of warp stop plates can be reduced, and the warp direction mis-parking can be reduced;

height of the cloth supporting plate: when the conventional fabric is produced, the height of the cloth supporting plate is on a connecting line of a cloth fell and a breast beam; when the fabric is produced, because the height of the heald frame is lower than that of the conventional variety, part of machines can generate back side yarn hooking defects, and in the production process, the height of the cloth supporting plate is increased by 1-2mm compared with that of the conventional variety so as to prevent the back side of the fabric from generating yarn hooking; the height of the cloth supporting plate is not suitable to be higher, the cloth supporting plate is high, when the rapier head enters the shed, the position of the rapier head is deviated to the lower half part of the shed, and the reverse side of the fabric is easy to generate star jump defects; therefore, when the height of the cloth supporting plate is adjusted, careful observation is required, and neither yarn hooking nor star jump defects can be generated;

and (3) loading tension: the warp with small shrinkage is easy to sink, so the on-machine tension is controlled to be larger, the warp with large shrinkage bears the tension of most of the warp, and can be elongated, so that the sinking of the warp with small shrinkage is reduced, and the warp with large shrinkage is also large after tension is lost and stretching, so that the warp is beneficial to fabric creping; on the tension weight lever at both sides of the loom, each tension weight of 5kg is arranged, the elasticity of the tension spring of the let-off mechanism is controlled to be larger;

operation management is enhanced, the driving can not be inching, and the inching is easy to generate driving defects; the cloth roller spring can not be pressed too tightly, otherwise, the sparse road defects are easy to generate.

As an optimization: the finished specification of the fabric is as follows: the width of the finished product is 235.5cm, the warp density of the finished product is 346 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 228 pieces/10 cm, the warp knitting shrinkage is 7.4 percent, the weft knitting shrinkage is 4.2 percent, the finishing shrinkage is 6.2 percent, and the finishing shrinkage is 1.8 percent.

Has the advantages that: the style characteristics of the woven star rain crepe fabric are similar to those of common crepe, but the creping mechanism is different from that of the common crepe, and because the yarn does not need to be subjected to heavy twisting in the production process, the production cost of the star rain crepe fabric is far lower than that of the common crepe, but because the star rain crepe fabric is woven by a single shaft, the interweaving times of the yarn are different, the shrinkage rate of the yarn is different, and defects such as yarn sinking, thick paths, back side yarn hooking and the like are very easily generated in the production process of the star rain crepe fabric, so that the production difficulty is higher; therefore, (1) in order to reduce the sinking yarn during weaving, through a series of measures of reducing the movement of the heald frame, reducing the height of the heald frame, increasing the upper machine tension, improving the height of the back beam and the height of the warp stopping frame and the like, the sinking yarn problem is solved; (2) in order to reduce the occurrence of the sparse road and the driving defect, the generation of the sparse road and the driving defect is prevented by measures of changing a warp broken end parking space, prohibiting the inching during the driving and the like; (3) by improving the height of the cloth supporting plate, the defects of yarn hooking on the back surface are avoided. Through the series of processes and technical measures, the weaving is ensured to be smoothly carried out, and good economic benefits are obtained for enterprises.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENT (S) OF INVENTION

1. Design of fabrics

The design key points of the fabric are as follows: (1) and (5) the warp and weft density. The warp and weft density of the fabric cannot be large, gaps need to be reserved among yarns, after the fabric loses tension, the warp and weft yarns can have large shrinkage spaces, and the creping effect of the fabric is obvious; (2) the number of interlaces. The card pattern of the fabric is plain weave, the interweaving times of the warp and weft yarns are changed by changing the drafting sequence, and the fabric is creped after being taken off a machine. The fabric uses 6 pages of healds, the drafting sequence is 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 6, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, because the card drawing is a plain weave, weft rib weave is formed at the positions with the drafting sequence of 1, 3, 5, 2, 4 and 6, and the interweaving times are less; plain weave is formed at the positions with the drafting sequence of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, and the interweaving times are more; (3) the number of heald frames. By varying the number of frames used, the creping effect of the fabric can be varied. The heald frame is used less, the difference of the warp and weft interweaving times is small, and the creping effect is not obvious; the heald frames are used more, the difference of the interweaving times is large, the creping effect is obvious, but the fabric is loose and rough. Through repeated trial weaving comparison, 6 pages of heald frames are determined to be used, the creping effect is good, and the cloth surface is fine; (4) and (5) weaving difficulty. Along with the increase of the number of the heald frames, the difference of the weaving shrinkage of the warp yarns is increased, the more serious the sinking of the warp yarns is during weaving, the more rapid the weaving difficulty is, and the better the production is that the heald frame does not exceed 8 pages.

The design specification of the fabric is as follows:

the width of the grey cloth is 251cm, the warp density of the grey cloth is 327 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the grey cloth is 224 pieces/10 cm, the metric reed number is 104, the width of the loom reed is 262cm, the ground texture is 3 pieces per reed, the total warp number is 8158 pieces per reed 4 of the side texture, the weft density gear is 38T, and two teeth are propped each time.

The weft yarn was an 18tex bleached yarn. There are two warp yarns, a for 18tex bleached yarn and B for 18tex deep blue yarn, the colour warp arrangement being: (1A, 1B, 2A) × 180; (1A, 3B, 1A, 2B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 56, (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 72; (1A, 3B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 97; (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 16; (1A, 3B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 56; (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 76; (1A, 3B,3A,1B, 1A, 3B) × 56; (1B, 2A) × 233; (3A, 1B) 376. In the full-width fabric, 3803 yarns A, 4307 yarns B, 48 edge yarns and 8158 total warp yarns are arranged.

2. Production of fabrics

(1) Winding machine

A1332M type winder is selected. The warp and weft yarns are 18tex yarns, belong to medium count yarns, have relatively high strength, and are subjected to a medium-speed and medium-tension process in the process of using a bobbin winder. The winding speed is 575m/min, the winding speed is not suitable to be higher, the winding speed is high, secondary hairiness is increased, and the production of the subsequent process is influenced. The weight of the spooling additional tension washer is 11 grams. In order to ensure the quality of the fabric, a hand-held air splicer joint is used after the end is broken.

(2) Warping machine

Using the SGA211 high speed batch warper, the capacity of the creel was 720. The total number of warp threads in the full width was 8158, with 3803 of 18tex bleached yarn, 4307 of 18tex deep blue yarn, 48 edge yarns, and the bleached yarns being warped together. 3803 +48 bleached yarns were 6-axis, 641 x 1+642 x 5 for each yarn, 4307 dark blue yarns were 6-axis, 717 x 1+718 x 5 for each yarn.

The warping speed is controlled to be about 500 m/min. The warping uses a medium-speed and medium-tension process, the warping speed is not high, the warping speed is high, the tension fluctuation is large, the tension of the yarn slices is difficult to control, the sinking of warp yarns can be caused during weaving, and the yield and the quality of fabrics are influenced; meanwhile, the warping speed is high, yarn hairiness is increased, and adverse effects are generated on the production of the subsequent process.

The SGA211 type high-speed batch warping machine is provided with a double-column disc type tension device, the size of additional tension is adjusted by changing the surrounding angle of yarns to the cylinders of a tension disc, and the additional tension of the whole warping machine can be divided into 11 grades at most. When the 18tex cotton yarn is warped, the additional tension configuration is divided into 4 sections, and the tension is sequentially set to 7 grades, 6 grades, 5 grades and 4 grades from front to back. To improve the uniformity of the tension of the sliver, collective creeling is used.

(3) Sizing

An ASG365 type two-unit slasher is selected.

The slurry formula comprises: 70% of modified starch, 30% of AS-02 slurry and 10-11S of slurry viscosity.

The warp is 18tex carded yarn, the warp and weft density is small, the requirements on sizing are general, and according to the principle that similar materials are mutually dissolved, the size is selected from full starch size, so that the environment is protected and the economy is realized.

The AS-02 slurry is high-performance starch slurry, the flexibility of a sizing film is good, the slurry falling during the yarn splitting is less, the AS-02 slurry is added into the starch slurry, the tearing of the sizing film is less, and the improvement of the wear resistance of the sizing is facilitated.

The grouting process uses a process with a light front and a heavy rear. The 18tex carding yarn has more hairiness, smaller warp and weft density, and lower enhancement requirement on sizing, and the sizing mainly aims to make the hairiness attached. The front light and back heavy pressing process is heavy-coating and light-soaking, and is beneficial to the smoothness of slashing hairiness and the improvement of the wear resistance of the yarn. The front squeeze roll pressure was controlled at 7KN and the rear squeeze roll pressure was controlled at 16 KN.

The sizing rate is 10%. The starch size sizing rate is generally higher, and when the fabric is used for sizing, the sizing rate is not high mainly for hairiness smoothness. The sizing rate is high, so that the coating becomes thick and the stranding is difficult. The split ends are increased, and the cost of sizing is increased.

The sizing speed is 50-55 m/min. The sizing speed is not high, the sizing speed is high, the leasing resistance is large, the ends are easy to break during the splitting, and meanwhile, a sizing film is easy to tear, so that the wear resistance of sizing is reduced.

The vat temperature was controlled at 98 ℃. The starch slurry needs to be starched at high temperature, the temperature of a slurry tank is low, the viscosity of the slurry is high, and a slurry film can be thickened.

The moisture regain of the slashing is controlled to be 7.0 percent, the moisture regain is not suitable to be larger, and after the slashing, the yarns can absorb moisture in the air, so that the moisture regain is increased.

And then 0.2 percent of wax is added. And the sizing is smooth after the waxing, which is beneficial to reducing the fuzzing of the warp yarns.

(4) Drafting harness

6 pages of healds are used, the sequence of the healds is 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 6, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, and the edge yarns are worn on 1-2 pages of the healds.

(5) Weaving

The fabric has wide door width, so that the fabric is woven by using a GA788-300 type rapier loom with the rotating speed of 150 r/min.

1. Warp broken-end parking space: during production of ordinary fabrics, after the warp yarn is broken, the parking space of the loom is about 295 degrees, namely, the loom is in a heald leveling position, and a worker can conveniently find the broken end, process the broken end, draft and insert reed. The weft density of the star rain crepe fabric is small, driving and defect points are easy to generate in the production process, and the warp broken end parking space is adjusted to 75 degrees, so that the driving and defect points can be effectively avoided. Analyzing the reasons for the occurrence of driving defects: during weaving, the beating-up mechanism is inertial beating-up, when the first weft in a conventional parking space is woven, beating-up is carried out from 295 degrees to 360 degrees in the parking space, the loom only rotates 65 degrees, the loom does not reach the highest speed, beating-up inertia is small, and driving and defect points are formed. After the stop position of the broken ends of the warp yarns is adjusted to 75 degrees, when the first weft is woven, the loom beats up from 75 degrees to 360 degrees, the loom rotates 285 degrees, the normal speed is basically achieved, the beating-up inertia is large enough, and the occurrence of driving is effectively reduced. The loom parking space is not suitable for the next morning. After the warp is broken, the distance from the reed to the fell is ensured to be more than 2.5cm, and because the distance is small, a worker cannot easily distinguish the reeding position. After the warp broken-end parking space of the weaving machine is changed, when the warp broken ends are processed, the operation difficulty of a vehicle stop worker is increased, and the reason that the parking space is not used by common varieties is also provided.

2. Opening time. The opening time is 280 degrees, when the star rain crepe fabric is weaved, due to the difference of weaving shrinkage, part of warp yarns easily sink, the shed is not easy to be clear, and the use of the star rain crepe fabric with early opening is beneficial to the clear shed.

3. Time to enter the sword. The selection of the time for entering the sword needs to master two principles: firstly, the weft feeding sword side of the weaving machine is easy to generate star jump defects on the cloth surface, so that the sword feeding time of the weft feeding side is later than that of the weft receiving sword side during production; secondly, the rapier feeding time is early, the weft insertion time is long, weft insertion is facilitated, a weft insertion mechanism is not easy to wear, and star jump defects are easy to generate due to the early rapier feeding time. When the fabric is produced, the weft insertion sword enters the shed when the effective height of the shed is 5-5.5cm at the left cloth edge; and the effective height of the shed enters the shed at about 4-4.5cm from the right cloth edge. The shed effective height when the rapier head enters the shed has great influence on production, the effective height is small, the star jump defect is easy to generate, and the broken end of the edge yarn can be generated in serious cases; the effective height is large, the rapier head enters the shed slowly, and the running speed of the rapier tape needs to be increased or the vehicle speed needs to be reduced. The rotating speed of the rapier head is increased, the loss of materials is increased, and mechanical faults are easily caused; the speed of the vehicle is reduced, and the yield is influenced.

4. Two weft selection rods are used for weft yarns. The weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarn, the color of the yarn between two bobbins is different, and two weft accumulators are used for alternately inserting weft to prevent weft color blocks. The use of two weft accumulators also reduces weft stops. When one weft accumulator is produced, the weft accumulator needs to be frequently started, and sometimes the weft accumulator stops when the weft accumulator is not started in time after the yarn on the yarn storage drum of the weft accumulator is pulled out.

5. The heald frame moves. When the star rain crepe fabric is produced, the fabric texture is that weft weight and plain weave alternately appear, the shrinkage rate of warp yarns is different, the star rain crepe fabric requires single-shaft production, the warp yarns with small shrinkage rate are easy to generate sinking, and warp direction error parking is caused. In the preparation process, measures are taken to reduce the elongation of the warp yarns, so that the sinking of the warp yarns is reduced. One of the technological measures for reducing the warp yarn elongation is: the moving distance of the heald frame is reduced, and the moving distance adjusting block of the heald frame is adjusted down by two grids compared with the conventional variety.

6. The height of the heald frame. Because the heald frame has small stroke, when the shed is fully opened, the distance from the lower layer warp to the sley is kept unchanged at 1-2mm, and the height of the heald frame is adjusted by taking the distance as a standard. The height of the heald frame is therefore lower than that of conventional types.

7. The back beam height. The height of the back beam is 50mm, the conventional variety is adopted, the height of the used back beam is generally 70mm when plain weave fabric is produced, and when the fabric is produced, a high back beam process is adopted, the tension difference of the upper layer warp and the lower layer warp is large, and the buckling of the upper layer warp is large during weaving, so that the fabric is more beneficial to the creping of the fabric after the fabric is taken off a machine.

8. Height of the warp stop frame. The height of a conventional let-off stand is: when the heald is flat, the guide rod in the warp stop frame is arranged on the connecting line of the back beam and the heald eye. When the fabric is produced, the height of the warp stop frame is higher by a little, and the warp stop frame is higher, so that the jumping of the warp stop sheet can be reduced, and the warp direction mis-stop can be reduced.

9. The height of the cloth supporting plate. In the conventional fabric production, the height of the cloth supporting plate is on the connecting line of the fell and the breast beam. When the fabric is produced, because the height of the heald frame is lower than that of the conventional variety, part of machines can generate reverse side yarn hooking defects, and in the production process, the height of the cloth supporting plate is increased by 1-2mm compared with that of the conventional variety so as to prevent the reverse side of the fabric from generating yarn hooking. The height of the cloth supporting plate is not suitable to be higher, the cloth supporting plate is high, when the rapier head enters the shed, the position of the rapier head is deviated to the lower half part of the shed, and the star jump defects are easily generated on the back surface of the fabric. Therefore, when the height of the cloth supporting plate is adjusted, careful observation is required, and neither the yarn hooking nor the star jump defects can be generated.

10. And (5) feeding tension. The warp yarns with small shrinkage rate are easy to sink, so the on-machine tension is controlled to be larger, the warp yarns with large shrinkage rate bear most of the tension of the warp yarns, and can extend, so that the sinking of the warp yarns with small shrinkage rate is reduced, and the warp yarns with large shrinkage rate also have large shrinkage after losing tension and stretching, and are favorable for fabric creping. On the tension weight levers on both sides of the loom, a tension weight of 5kg is disposed, and the elastic force of the tension spring of the let-off mechanism is controlled to be large.

11. Operation management is enhanced, the driving can not be inching, and the inching is easy to generate driving defects; the cloth roller spring can not be pressed too tightly, otherwise, the sparse road defects are easy to generate.

3. Finished specification of fabric:

the width of the finished product is 235.5cm, the warp density of the finished product is 346 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 228 pieces/10 cm, the warp knitting shrinkage is 7.4 percent, the weft knitting shrinkage is 4.2 percent, the finishing shrinkage is 6.2 percent, and the finishing shrinkage is 1.8 percent.

The style characteristics of the woven star rain crepe fabric are similar to those of common crepe, but the creping mechanism is different from that of the common crepe, and because the yarn does not need to be subjected to heavy twisting in the production process, the production cost of the star rain crepe fabric is far lower than that of the common crepe, but because the star rain crepe fabric is woven by a single shaft, the interweaving times of the yarn are different, the shrinkage rate of the yarn is different, and defects such as yarn sinking, thick paths, back side yarn hooking and the like are very easily generated in the production process of the star rain crepe fabric, so that the production difficulty is higher; therefore, (1) in order to reduce the sinking yarn during weaving, through a series of measures of reducing the movement of the heald frame, reducing the height of the heald frame, increasing the upper machine tension, improving the height of the back beam and the height of the warp stopping frame and the like, the sinking yarn problem is solved; (2) in order to reduce the occurrence of the sparse road and the driving defect, the generation of the sparse road and the driving defect is prevented by measures of changing a warp broken end parking space, prohibiting the inching during the driving and the like; (3) by improving the height of the cloth supporting plate, the defects of yarn hooking on the back surface are avoided. Through the series of processes and technical measures, the weaving is ensured to be smoothly carried out, and good economic benefits are obtained for enterprises.

Claims

1. A production process of a star rain crepe fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the design specification of the fabric is as follows: the width of the grey cloth is 251cm, the warp density of the grey cloth is 327 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the grey cloth is 224 pieces/10 cm, the metric reed number is 104, the width of the loom reed is 262cm, the ground tissue is 3 pieces per reed, the total warp number is 8158 pieces per reed, the weft density gear is 38T, and two teeth are propped each time;

the weft yarn is 18tex bleached yarn; there are two types of warp yarns: a represents an 18tex bleached yarn, B represents an 18tex deep blue yarn, the colour arrangement being: (1A, 1B, 2A) × 180; (1A, 3B, 1A, 2B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 56, (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 72; (1A, 3B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 97; (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 16; (1A, 3B); (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B) × 56; (3A, 1B, 1A, 3B); (1A, 4B, 1A, 6B) × 76; (1A, 3B,3A,1B, 1A, 3B) × 56; (1B, 2A) × 233; (3A, 1B) 376; in the full-width fabric, 3803 yarns A, 4307 yarns B, 48 edge yarns and 8158 total warp yarns are arranged;

the production process of the star rain crepe fabric comprises the following steps:

(1) winding machine

(2) warping machine

(3) sizing

(4) drafting harness

(5) weaving

Selecting a GA788-300 type rapier loom for weaving, wherein the rotating speed of the loom is 150 r/min; warp broken-end parking space: the warp broken-end parking space is adjusted to 75 degrees, so that driving defects are effectively avoided; after the warp yarn is broken, the distance from the reed to the cloth fell is ensured to be more than 2.5 cm;

when the fabric is produced, the weft insertion sword enters the shed when the effective height of the shed is 5-5.5cm at the left cloth edge; the effective height of the shed is 4-4.5cm and enters the shed;

operation management is enhanced, the driving can not be inching, and the inching is easy to generate driving defects; the spring of the cloth roller cannot be pressed too tightly, otherwise, the sparse road defects are easy to generate;

the finished specification of the fabric is as follows: the width of the finished product is 235.5cm, the warp density of the finished product is 346 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 228 pieces/10 cm, the warp knitting shrinkage is 7.4 percent, the weft knitting shrinkage is 4.2 percent, the finishing shrinkage is 6.2 percent, and the finishing shrinkage is 1.8 percent.