CN107313148A - A kind of production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature - Google Patents
A kind of production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature Download PDFInfo
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- CN107313148A CN107313148A CN201710571420.9A CN201710571420A CN107313148A CN 107313148 A CN107313148 A CN 107313148A CN 201710571420 A CN201710571420 A CN 201710571420A CN 107313148 A CN107313148 A CN 107313148A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D9/00—Open-work fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D47/00—Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms
- D03D47/12—Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms wherein single picks of weft thread are inserted, i.e. with shedding between each pick
- D03D47/18—Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms wherein single picks of weft thread are inserted, i.e. with shedding between each pick two weft inserters meeting at or near the middle of the shed and transferring the weft from one to the other
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D49/00—Details or constructional features not specially adapted for looms of a particular type
- D03D49/04—Control of the tension in warp or cloth
- D03D49/22—Back rests; Lease rods; Brest beams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature.The double-deck open-work fabric of the feature that is prepared in the present invention is：Double-layered structure, mock leno weave are combined together, nexine blind hole during the open-work of top layer, top layer not transmission during nexine open-work forms a kind of stereochemical structure fabric；The different fiber of function is respectively adopted from nexine on the top layer of fabric simultaneously, formation surface uvioresistant, discoloration, comfortable feel, nexine have antibacterial, heat conduction, lead wet, uvioresistant, lead wet design：Nexine regain is smaller, and wet guilding is good, thermal conductivity is good, wearability is good；Outer layer regain is big, and nexine sweat is oriented to outer level, relative dry and comfortable of holding nexine, it is to avoid nexine forms wet, hot sensation.With moisture absorption, ventilative, nice and cool, antibacterial, uvioresistant, discoloration, fashion functional fabric.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to weaving face fabric manufacture field, and in particular to a kind of production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature.
Background technology
Feature bilayer open-work fabric be：Double-layered structure, mock leno weave are combined together, nexine is impermeable during the open-work of top layer
Hole, top layer not transmission during nexine open-work, forms a kind of stereochemical structure fabric；Work(is respectively adopted on the top layer of fabric and nexine simultaneously
Can the different fiber of property, form surface uvioresistant, discoloration, comfortable feel, nexine have antibacterial, heat conduction, lead wet, uvioresistant, it is resistance to
Mill property is good, leads wet design：Nexine regain is smaller, and wet guilding is good, thermal conductivity is good, and outer layer regain is big, is conducive to nexine sweat
Liquid is oriented to outer layer, keeps relative dry and comfortable of nexine, it is to avoid nexine forms wet, hot sensation.With moisture absorption, ventilative, nice and cool, anti-purple
Outside, the functional fabric of antibacterial, discoloration, fashion.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention：In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the invention provides a kind of double-deck open-work fabric of feature
Production technology.
Technical scheme：A kind of double-deck open-work fabric of feature, the double-deck open-work fabric of the feature, double-layered structure, thoroughly
Hole tissue is combined together, nexine blind hole during the open-work of top layer, top layer not transmission during nexine open-work, forms a kind of stereochemical structure face
Material；The different fiber of feature is respectively adopted from nexine on the top layer of fabric simultaneously：
The top layer：
The top layer：
Warp thread：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn A, 150D/72F；
Weft yarn：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn coloured silk point silk, wherein：Photochromic viscose filament yarn B is 150D/72F.Color point
For coloured viscose staple fibre, coloured silk point is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity is 30%, and spacing is：200、300、600、450、250mm；
Photochromic viscose filament yarn A, photochromic viscose filament yarn B can be the same or different；
Color point：The road FA311 types drawing frame of Blowing carding → bis- → FA458 type fly frames；
Coloured silk point silk：FA507 types spinning frame → village field NO.21C automatic winders；
Blowing carding：Cotton strip quantity is 21g/5m, and speed is 150m/min；
Two road draftings：Quantification of 18.5g/5m, speed is 350m/min；
Rove：Quantification of 4.0g/10m, ingot speed is 1100r/min；
Spun yarn：Ingot speed is 15000r/min, and twist factor is designed as 280；
Winder：Speed is 1200m/min；
The nexine：
Warp thread：Graphene chinlon filament, 150D/72F, wherein：The graphene content of fiber is 0.2-2%；
Weft yarn：Graphene chinlon filament and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament and twisted filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber content 15-50%, wherein：
The graphene content of graphene chinlon filament fiber is 0.2-2%；Graphene chinlon filament is 100D/36F, and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber is long
Silk is 50D/24F, and twist factor is 200-350；
Graphene chinlon filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament：GD102 types Twistless Silk Doubling and silk are first passed through, then uses TZ326 types
Chemical fiber double-twister carries out double twisting；
Doubling winder：Speed is 250m/min；
Two-for-one twister：Ingot speed is 8500r/min, and twist factor is designed as 240.
A kind of production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature described in basis, comprises the following steps：
(1) whole slurry
From the intelligent sizing warper productions of XZJ300, bobbin cradle capacity is 1680, and highest slurry silk speed is 250m/
min；
This fabric warp has two kinds of graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn, and their requirements to slurry are different,
Two kinds of warp thread need after the completion of independent warping, warping sizing, then merged by warp rebeaming machine；
The warping of graphene Polyamide Yarns：Graphene Polyamide Yarns one spends 72, and full width 68 is spent, and it is 4896, cylinder to add up to radical
The capacity of subrack is 1680, is made into 3 warp beams, is 1632*3 with axle；
It is 180m/min to starch silk speed, and formula of size is：PAM slurries 65%, PVA205MB 30%, antistatic additive SN
3%, JFC 2%；The rate of sizing of graphene Polyamide Yarns is 8%, and regain control is 3.5%, using low temperature starching, single single pressure of leaching
Technique；
Using low temperature starching technique, slurry groove temperature is controlled at 35 DEG C -45 DEG C, and stock tank is no longer heated to slurries, stock tank
Temperature slurries in mixing cirtern temperature control；
The warping of photochromic viscose filament yarn：The radical of photochromic viscose filament yarn and the radical one of graphene Polyamide Yarns
Sample, is also 4896, and side yarn is 48, and side yarn is used as from 18tex cotton yarn；Photochromic viscose filament yarn is made into 3 axles, per axle
16 side yarns, are 1648*3 with axle per the yarn at each 8；
It is 45m/min to starch silk speed, and formula of size is：Converted starch 70%, PVA205MB slurries 30%；The rate of sizing is controlled
11%, regain is controlled in 9%-10%；
The tension force of both during warping is controlled in 23cN；
And axle (2)
Using KB30 warp rebeaming machines, and axle speed is by graphene Polyamide Yarns and photic after 60m/min, and axle with leased line
The viscose filament yarn that changes colour is separated, and work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn；
(3) denting
Gaited using subregion, photochromic viscose filament yarn is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-8 pages, after graphene Polyamide Yarns is through
Area, comprehensive using 9-16 pages, ground tissue, which is gaited, is sequentially：(1,9,2,10,1,9,3,11,4,12,3,11) * 6, (5,13,6,14,
5,13,7,15,8,16,7,15) * 6, enter per reed 3；
(4) weave：
From the GA747 rapier looms system of knitting, loom rotating speed is 190r/min；
Opening time：Opening time is defined as 2800；
Double shed technique：Using double shed, by graphene Polyamide Yarns stroke of harness frames regulating block, two lattice are moved down,
Making the traverse of graphene Polyamide Yarns heald frame increases, and forms double shed；
Back beam height：The back rest from, back beam height is 95mm, moves down the back rest during production, increase top line
Tension force, reduces the sinking of top line, clearly favourable to shed open；
Weft insertion technique：It is 80 when entering sword to send sword0, connect latitude sword and move back the sword time for 2800；
Warp tension：Using medium warp tension, 5kg tension weight is respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides
Hammer, the position of weight can partially after machine some, the warp tension of reduction fabric；
The chucking power of bringer sword：Graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn all compare light compared with spun yarn
It is sliding, easily slipped in the jaw of bringer sword, therefore in production process, to increase the chucking power of bringer sword jaw.Mobile bringer
Sponge below sword jaw, thus it is possible to vary the size of the chucking power of jaw；
The chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf：Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn all smoothers, are easily roused in yarn storage
Upper knocking over, therefore the chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf is increased during production, Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are avoided as far as possible
Knocking over；
Weft Insertion：Because Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are easily slipped from bringer sword jaw, therefore wefting insertion
Tension force is small.When tram passes through weft examining device, presser bar should not be passed through, reduce Weft Insertion.
It is used as optimization：The selection of the textile：Nexine fabric woven warp thread selects 150D/72F graphene Polyamide Yarns, weft yarn
It is that 100D/36F is 50D/24F and twisted filament with Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament from graphene chinlon filament, twist factor is 200-350；
Top fabric woven, it is pink colour that warp thread, which is selected before the photochromic viscose filament yarns of 150D/72F, discoloration, is sea blue color after discoloration, weft yarn is long
Silk selects the photochromic viscose filament yarns of 150D/72F, is white before discoloration, is daffod after discoloration, and coloured silk point is red short rayon fiber
Dimension, coloured silk point is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity is 30%, and spacing is：200、300、600、450、250mm.
It is used as optimization：The organization design of the fabric：Fabric tissue is from double-deck mock leno weave, textura epidermoidea, open-work and
Plain cloth is alternately present；Nexine tissue, the same with textura epidermoidea, open-work and plain weave are alternately present；During textura epidermoidea's open-work
Layer tissue is plain weave, and textura epidermoidea is plain weave during nexine tissue open-work；Table warp, back warp press 1:1 arrangement；Weft yarn arrangement is：[(table
Latitude 1, outer weft 2) * 6, binding pick], the color of binding pick will be selected to be close or identical with outer weft, back weft.
It is used as optimization：The fabric specification of fabric, fabric breadth 154cm, fabric through it is close be 640/10cm, fabric filling density is
460/10cm, upper machine reed width 160cm, 205 teeth of porter/10cm, 48, side yarn, full width total quantity of warps 9840, a flower circulation
Number is 144, and full width 68 is spent, and ground tissue enters per reed 3, and Selvage Stitch enters per reed 2.
It is used as optimization：The trimmed size of the fabric：The Fabric width of fabric is 144cm, finished product through it is close be 684/
10cm, finished product filling density is 474/10cm, and it is 6.5% to arrange width shrinkage, and it is 3% to arrange long shrinkage, is 6.7%, latitude through crimp
Crimp is 3.8%.
Beneficial effect：The double-deck open-work fabric of the feature that is prepared in the present invention is：Double-layered structure, mock leno weave are combined
Together, nexine blind hole during the open-work of top layer, top layer not transmission during nexine open-work, forms a kind of stereochemical structure fabric；Simultaneously in face
The top layer of material and the nexine fiber that feature is respectively adopted is different, form surface uvioresistant, colorful color-changeable, fashion, moisture absorption, feel
Comfortably, nexine has antibacterial, heat conduction, leads the good design of wet, uvioresistant, wearability：Nexine regain is smaller, and wet guilding is good, lead
Hot good, outer layer regain is big, is conducive to nexine sweat to be oriented to outer layer, relative dry and comfortable of holding nexine, it is to avoid nexine is formed
Wet, hot sensation.With moisture absorption, ventilative, nice and cool, uvioresistant, antibacterial, discoloration, fashion functional fabric.
Technology point in the present invention is：This functional fabric, fabric tissue is complicated, and difficulty of weaving is big：(1) using anti-
Weave, reduces the rubbing machine meeting of Polyamide Yarns, the generation of minimizing electrostatic；(2) during technological design with low speed, subtract elongation, protect elasticity
For basic technology principle；(3) through close big, shed open is difficult clearly, by double shed, and the friction between reduction warp thread is improved
Shed open definition；(4) Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn smoother, are easily slipped in shed open during wefting insertion, by increasing
Plus the chucking power of bringer sword jaw, reduce Weft Insertion technique, prevent graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn from slipping；
(5) medium back beam height is used, the sinking of top line is reduced.Series of process measure more than, solves and produced
Many technical barriers in journey, have ensured being smoothed out for production.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is textura epidermoidea's figure of the present invention；
Fig. 2 is the nexine organization chart of the present invention；
Fig. 3 is the fabric organization chart of the present invention.
Embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiment of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this area
Personnel can be better understood from advantages and features of the invention, so as to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of embodiment of the invention, rather than whole embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, the every other implementation that those of ordinary skill in the art are obtained on the premise of creative work is not made
Example, belongs to the scope of protection of the invention.
Embodiment
A kind of double-deck open-work fabric of feature, is combined together double-layered structure, mock leno weave, and nexine is not during the open-work of top layer
Open-work, top layer not transmission during nexine open-work, forms a kind of stereochemical structure fabric；It is respectively adopted simultaneously on the top layer of fabric with nexine
The different fiber of feature, forms surface uvioresistant, discoloration, comfortable feel, and nexine has antibacterial, heat conduction, leads wet, uvioresistant,
Lead wet design：Nexine regain is smaller, and wet guilding is good, thermal conductivity is good, wearability is good；Outer layer regain is big, and nexine sweat is led
Outside level, keeps relative dry and comfortable of nexine, it is to avoid nexine forms wet, hot sensation.With moisture absorption, ventilative, nice and cool, antibacterial,
Uvioresistant, discoloration, the functional fabric of fashion.
The top layer
Warp thread：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn A, 150D/72F
Weft yarn：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn coloured silk point silk, wherein：Photochromic viscose filament yarn B is 150D/72F.Color point
For coloured viscose staple fibre, coloured silk point is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity is 30%, and spacing is：200、300、600、450、250mm.
Photochromic viscose filament yarn A, photochromic viscose filament yarn B can be the same or different.
Color point：Blowing carding → FA311 types drawing frame (two roads) → FA458 type fly frames
Coloured silk point silk：FA507 types spinning frame (passing through technological transformation) → village field NO.21C automatic winders
Blowing carding：Cotton strip quantity is 21g/5m, and speed is 150m/min.
Two road draftings：Quantification of 18.5g/5m, speed is 350m/min.
Rove：Quantification of 4.0g/10m, ingot speed is 1100r/min.
Spun yarn：Ingot speed is 15000r/min, and twist factor is designed as 280,
Winder：Speed is 1200m/min.
The nexine：
Warp thread：Graphene chinlon filament, 150D/72F, wherein：The graphene content of fiber is 0.2-2%
Weft yarn：Graphene chinlon filament and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament and twisted filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber content 15-50%, wherein：
The graphene content of graphene chinlon filament fiber is 0.2-2%；Graphene chinlon filament is 100D/36F, and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber is long
Silk is 50D/24F, and twist factor is 200-350.
Graphene chinlon filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament：GD102 types Twistless Silk Doubling and silk are first passed through, then uses TZ326 types
Chemical fiber double-twister carries out double twisting
Doubling winder：Speed is 250m/min
Two-for-one twister：Ingot speed is 8500r/min, and twist factor is designed as 240.
Photochromic viscose filament yarn employed in the present invention, can be with moment from colourless under sunlight or ultraviolet irradiation
Become coloured, another color can also be become from coloured, when stopping irradiation, fiber returns to original color again.Table 1 is that Xinxiang is white
The photochromic viscose rayon kind of aigret chemical fibre group production.
The photochromic viscose rayon kind of table 1
Graphene nylon fibre employed in the present invention, is that graphene is with the addition of in nylon fibre, and the fiber has
The function such as antibacterial, anti-mite, uvioresistant, antistatic.
Case 1:
Nexine：Warp thread：150D/72F graphene Polyamide Yarns；Weft yarn：100D/36F graphene Polyamide Yarns+50D/24F is hydrophilic
Property dacron thread.Top layer：The photochromic viscose filament yarn 11# of warp thread 150D/72F；Weft yarn：The photochromic viscose filament yarns of 150D/72F
1#, coloured silk point is red viscose glue；Photochromic viscose filament yarn, before discoloration：1# whites, 11# pink colours, after discoloration：1# daffods, 11#
Sea blue color.
1. the design of fabric
The selection of designing points (1) textiles of fabric：Top fabric woven warp thread selects 150D/72F graphene polyamide fibres
Silk, graphene chinlon filament and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament and twisted filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber content 15- of the weft yarn from 150D/72F
50%；Nexine fabric woven, warp thread selects the photochromic viscose filament yarn 11# of 150D/72F, and 11# is pink colour before discoloration, 11# seas after discoloration
Blueness, weft yarn is from 150D/72F viscose glues illusion-colour silk 1#, 1# whites before discoloration, 1# daffods after discoloration, and coloured silk point is red viscose glue；
(2) the anti-weaving process of fabric is used：Graphene chinlon filament as top fabric woven warp thread, it is necessary to frequently when knitting nexine fabric woven processed
Lift, easily produce electrostatic, when this fabric is produced, using anti-weave technique, regard graphene chinlon filament as nexine fabric woven
Organizine, when so knitting upper layer of fabric processed, graphene chinlon filament need not lift, and significantly reduce graphene chinlon filament
The chance of friction, reduces broken end as far as possible；(3) organization design of fabric：Fabric tissue is from double-deck mock leno weave, top layer group
Knit, open-work and plain cloth are alternately present, textura epidermoidea's figure is as shown in Figure 1.Nexine tissue, it is the same with textura epidermoidea, open-work and
Plain weave is alternately present, and nexine organization chart is as shown in Figure 2.The organization chart of fabric with 1-12 in figure as shown in figure 3, represent table through table
Latitude, represents back warp back weft with a-L, ■ represent textura epidermoidea through interlacing point,Represent being represented through interlacing point, zero for nexine fabric woven
When knitting back weft processed, table is through will all lift；(4) stitch weave of fabric：From stitch weave of the binding pick as two-layer fabrics,
Binding pick represents that binding pick △ in the centre of two-layer fabrics, figure represents the binding place under connecing in organization chart with I and II,
Back warp lifts herein to interweave with binding pick.In figure ▲ represent under the binding place that connects, in the system of knitting originally, layer fabric when, table warp
Should all lift, but here table through not lifting, but with binding pick realize interweave；(5) table warp, back warp press 1:1 arrangement；
(6) weft yarn arrangement is：[(outer weft 1, outer weft 2) * 6, binding pick], the color of binding pick will be selected carefully a bit, color and outer weft, back weft
It is close or identical.
The fabric specification of fabric, fabric breadth 154cm, fabric through it is close be 640/10cm, fabric filling density is 460/
10cm, upper machine reed width 160cm, 205 teeth of porter/10cm, 48, side yarn, full width total quantity of warps 9840, a flower period is 144
Root, full width 68 is spent, and ground tissue enters per reed 3, and Selvage Stitch enters per reed 2.
2. the production essentials of fabric：
Because the price of yarn is higher, the amount of placing an order is smaller, is produced using whole slurry process integration, to reduce back
Silk, reduces production cost.
2.1 whole slurries
From the intelligent sizing warper productions of XZJ300, the type sizing warper spins Science and Technology Ltd. by Suzhou four and given birth to
Production, bobbin cradle capacity is 1680, and highest slurry silk speed is 250m/min.
This fabric warp has two kinds of graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn, and their requirements to slurry are different,
Two kinds of warp thread need after the completion of independent warping, warping sizing, then merged by warp rebeaming machine.
The warping of graphene Polyamide Yarns：Graphene Polyamide Yarns one spends 72, and full width 68 is spent, and it is 4896, cylinder to add up to radical
The capacity of subrack is 1680, is made into 3 warp beams, is 1632*3 with axle.
It is 180m/min to starch silk speed.Formula of size is：PAM slurries 65%, PVA205MB 30%, antistatic additive SN
3%, JFC 2%；Graphene Polyamide Yarns contains substantial amounts of amide groups, and according to the similar principle mixed, slurry will also contain acid amides
Base, PAM polyacrylamides, belongs to acrylic size, contains substantial amounts of amide groups, it is adaptable to the starching of graphene Polyamide Yarns.
Acrylic size feature is easy desizing, has the disadvantage that serous coat is soft, not wear-resisting, and the weft density of two-layer fabric all compares
Greatly, PVA205MB therefore is added in the slurry, to strengthen the anti-wear performance of serous coat.The rate of sizing of graphene Polyamide Yarns is 8%,
Regain control is 3.5%, using low temperature starching, single single pressure technique of leaching.
Using low temperature starching technique, slurry groove temperature is controlled at 35 DEG C -45 DEG C, and stock tank is no longer heated to slurries, stock tank
Temperature slurries in mixing cirtern temperature control.The reason for using low temperature starching is：Graphene Polyamide Yarns is easy under hygrometric state
Elongation, with the rise of temperature, graphene Polyamide Yarns can produce the fault similar to slub, therefore use low temperature starching.
Single leaching single pressure technique is used during starching, reason is that the initial modulus of polyamide fibre is low, easily elongation, can using the single pressure technique of single leaching
To reduce the elongation of warp to greatest extent.
The warping of photochromic viscose filament yarn：The radical of photochromic viscose filament yarn and the radical one of graphene Polyamide Yarns
Sample, is also 4896, side yarn be 48, from 18tex cotton yarn as side yarn, cotton yarn and photochromic viscose filament yarn, all belong to
In cellulose fibre, the mechanism of starching is identical, and whole slurry of putting together, side yarn selects cotton yarn, can reduce production cost.Illusion-colour silk
3 axles are made into, are 1648*3 with axle per the yarn at each 8 per 16 side yarns of axle.
It is 45m/min to starch silk speed, and formula of size is：Converted starch 70%, PVA205MB slurries 30%；It is photochromic viscous
Glue long filament can use full starch slurry, but this fabric is two-layer fabric, and the thread count of fabric is big, the wear-resisting requirement to sizing
Height, therefore add in formula of size PVA205MB slurries.It is the same with graphene Polyamide Yarns during using sizing warper, make
With low temperature starching, slurry will select low polymerization degree, the slurry of low viscosity.Photochromic viscose filament yarn it is wet strong than relatively low, only
Strong 50% is done, therefore the elongation of photochromic viscose filament yarn is prevented during slurry silk, wet area's tension force is controlled during slurry silk, use
Single single pressure sizing technique of leaching, reduces the elongation of photochromic viscose filament yarn as much as possible.The rate of sizing is controlled in 11%, regain control
System speed in 9%-10%, slurry silk is low, prevents that serous coat is torn when photochromic viscose filament yarn elongation and leasing.
The initial modulus of graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn is all smaller, easily elongation, in production process
Technological design will with small tension receiving coil, protect elasticity for basic principle, during warping sizing, tension force is strictly controlled, due to bobbin cradle
Length is longer, and whole slurry speed is slow, and in order to ensure the uniform of piece yarn tension, tension in Warping is detected with single yarn tester, according to
Testing result adjusts additional tension, and the tension force of both during warping is controlled in 23cN or so.
It is noted that unimpeded, impulse- free robustness, the foreign of the Silk Road, prevent long filament from fluffing during whole slurry, the quality of fabric is influenceed.
2.2 and axle
Use KB30 warp rebeaming machines.And axle speed is 60m/min.And axle speed should not be big, because the light of graphene Polyamide Yarns
The initial modulus of mutagens color viscose filament yarn is low, and axle easily causes the elongation of long filament soon, influences the production of later process.And after axle
Graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are separated with leased line, work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn.
2.3 denting
Gaited using subregion, photochromic viscose filament yarn is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-8 pages, after graphene Polyamide Yarns is through
Area, comprehensive using 9-16 pages, ground tissue, which is gaited, is sequentially：(1,9,2,10,1,9,3,11,4,12,3,11) * 6, (5,13,6,14,
5,13,7,15,8,16,7,15) * 6, enter per reed 3.
2.4 weaving
From the GA747 rapier looms system of knitting, loom rotating speed is 190r/min.From the low speed rapier loom system of knitting, there are two
Reason：One is that this fabric institutional framework is double-deck mock leno weave, complicated, using the heald frames of page 16, through close than larger, shed open
It is clear to be not easy, clearly favourable to shed open from low speed rapier loom；Two be the generation that speed advantageously reduces electrostatic slowly.
Opening time：Opening time is defined as 280 °.Because the fabric is through close big, shed open is difficult clearly, from early opening
Technique, is conducive to shed open clear.
Double shed technique：Graphene Polyamide Yarns easily produces electrostatic, to reduce graphene Polyamide Yarns during weaving as far as possible
With the friction of heddle eyelet, graphene Polyamide Yarns and illusion-colour silk, therefore double shed is used, by graphene Polyamide Yarns stroke of harness frames
Regulating block, moves down two lattice, makes the traverse of graphene Polyamide Yarns heald frame and increases, and forms double shed, on the one hand reduces photic
The friction of discoloration viscose filament yarn and Polyamide Yarns, it is to avoid the generation of electrostatic；Another aspect shed open is easily clear, favourable to wefting insertion.
Back beam height：The back rest from, back beam height is 95mm, and two-layer fabric is produced, when knitting back weft processed, top line
Easily sink, so as to influence shed open definition, therefore the back rest is moved down during production, increase the tension force of top line, reduce
The sinking of top line, it is clearly favourable to shed open.
Weft insertion technique：It is 80 ° when sending sword to enter sword, connects latitude sword and move back the sword time for 280 °.When this fabric is produced, sword is entered from evening
Technique, the reason for sword technique has two aspects is entered from evening, one be fabric through close big, shed open is difficult clearly, and two be this fabric
During production, because the initial modulus of two kinds of warp thread is low, yarn easily extends, thus uses medium warp tension technique, upper machine
Power is small, and shed open is not easy clearly.Faults are jumped in the unintelligible easy generation three of shed open, and sword technique is entered using evening, when sword head enters shed open, shuttle
Mouth effective depth is big, and the generation of three jump faults can be reduced to greatest extent.
Warp tension：Using medium warp tension, the elongation of organizine is reduced as far as possible, because warp thread radical is more, thus
Each one 5kg of configuration tension weight on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides, the position of weight can partially after machine some, reduction fabric
Warp tension.
The chucking power of bringer sword：Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are compared with spun yarn, and all smoothers is being sent
Easily slipped in the jaw of latitude sword, therefore in production process, to increase the chucking power of bringer sword jaw.Under mobile bringer sword jaw
The sponge of side, thus it is possible to vary the size of the chucking power of jaw.
The chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf：Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn all smoothers, are easily roused in yarn storage
Upper knocking over, therefore the chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf is increased during production, Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are avoided as far as possible
Knocking over.
Weft Insertion:Because Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are easily slipped from bringer sword jaw, therefore wefting insertion
Tension force is small.When tram passes through weft examining device, presser bar should not be passed through, reduce Weft Insertion.
3. the trimmed size of fabric：
The Fabric width of fabric is 144cm, finished product through it is close be 684/10cm, finished product filling density is 474/10cm, is arranged
Width shrinkage is 6.5%, and it is 3% to arrange long shrinkage, is 6.7% through crimp, and latitude crimp is 3.8%.
Technology point in the present invention is：This functional fabric, fabric tissue is complicated, and difficulty of weaving is big：(1) using anti-
Weave, reduces the rubbing machine meeting of Polyamide Yarns, the generation of minimizing electrostatic；(2) during technological design with low speed, subtract elongation, protect elasticity
For basic technology principle；(3) through close big, shed open is difficult clearly, by double shed, and the friction between reduction warp thread is improved
Shed open definition；(4) Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn smoother, are easily slipped in shed open during wefting insertion, by increasing
Plus the chucking power of bringer sword jaw, reduce Weft Insertion technique, prevent Polyamide Yarns and illusion-colour silk from slipping；(5) the medium back rest is used
Highly, the sinking of top line is reduced.Series of process measure more than, many technologies solved in production process are difficult
Topic, has ensured being smoothed out for production.
Claims (6)
1. a kind of double-deck open-work fabric of feature, it is characterised in that：The double-deck open-work fabric of the feature, double-layered structure, thoroughly
Hole tissue is combined together, nexine blind hole during the open-work of top layer, top layer not transmission during nexine open-work, forms a kind of stereochemical structure face
Material；The different fiber of feature is respectively adopted from nexine on the top layer of fabric simultaneously：
The top layer：
Warp thread：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn A, 150D/72F；
Weft yarn：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn coloured silk point silk, chopped fiber interruption, which is coated on long filament, forms color point, wherein：It is photic
The viscose filament yarn B that changes colour is 150D/72F.Coloured silk point is coloured viscose staple fibre, and coloured silk point is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity is 30%,
Spacing is：200、300、600、450、250mm；
Photochromic viscose filament yarn A, photochromic viscose filament yarn B can be the same or different；
Color point：The road FA311 types drawing frame of Blowing carding → bis- → FA458 type fly frames；
Coloured silk point silk：FA507 types spinning frame → village field NO.21C automatic winders；
Blowing carding：Cotton strip quantity is 21g/5m, and speed is 150m/min；
Two road draftings：Quantification of 18.5g/5m, speed is 350m/min；
Rove：Quantification of 4.0g/10m, ingot speed is 1100r/min；
Spun yarn：Ingot speed is 15000r/min, and twist factor is designed as 280；
Winder：Speed is 1200m/min；
The nexine：
Warp thread：Graphene chinlon filament, 150D/72F, wherein：The graphene content of fiber is 0.2-2%；
Weft yarn：Graphene chinlon filament and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament and twisted filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber content 15-50%, wherein：Graphite
The graphene content of alkene chinlon filament fiber is 0.2-2%；Graphene chinlon filament is 100D/36F, and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament is
50D/24F, twist factor is 200-350；
Graphene chinlon filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament：First pass through GD102 types Twistless Silk Doubling and silk, then with TZ326 type chemical fibres
Two-for-one twister carries out double twisting；
Doubling winder：Speed is 250m/min；
Two-for-one twister：Ingot speed is 8500r/min, and twist factor is designed as 240.
2. a kind of production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Including as follows
Step：
(1) whole slurry
From the intelligent sizing warper production of XZJ300 types, bobbin cradle capacity is 1680, and highest slurry silk speed is 250m/
min；
This fabric warp has two kinds of graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn, and their requirements to slurry are different, two kinds
Warp thread needs after the completion of independent warping, warping sizing, then merged by warp rebeaming machine；
The warping of graphene Polyamide Yarns：Graphene Polyamide Yarns one spends 72, and full width 68 is spent, and it is 4896, bobbin cradle to add up to radical
Capacity be 1680, be made into 3 warp beams, with axle be 1632*3；
It is 180m/min to starch silk speed, and formula of size is：PAM slurries 65%, PVA205MB 30%, antistatic additive SN 3%,
JFC 2%；The rate of sizing of graphene Polyamide Yarns is 8%, and regain control is 3.5%, using low temperature starching, single single pressure work of leaching
Skill；
Using low temperature starching technique, slurry groove temperature is controlled at 35 DEG C -45 DEG C, and stock tank is no longer heated to slurries, the temperature of stock tank
Spend the temperature control of the slurries in mixing cirtern；
The warping of photochromic viscose filament yarn：The radical of photochromic viscose filament yarn as the radical of graphene Polyamide Yarns,
It it is 4896, side yarn is 48, and side yarn is used as from 18tex cotton yarn；Photochromic viscose filament yarn is made into 3 axles, per 16, axle
Side yarn, is 1648*3 with axle per the yarn at each 8；
It is 45m/min to starch silk speed, and formula of size is：Converted starch 70%, PVA205MB slurries 30%；Rate of sizing control exists
11%, regain is controlled in 9%-10%；
The tension force of both during warping is controlled in 23cN；
And axle (2)
Using KB30 warp rebeaming machines, and axle speed is by graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic after 60m/min, and axle with leased line
Viscose filament yarn is separated, and work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn；
(3) denting
Gaited using subregion, photochromic viscose filament yarn is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-8 pages, graphene Polyamide Yarns is through back zone, makes
Comprehensive with 9-16 pages, ground tissue, which is gaited, is sequentially：(1,9,2,10,1,9,3,11,4,12,3,11) * 6, (5,13,6,14,5,13,
7,15,8,16,7,15) * 6, enter per reed 3；
(4) weave：
From the GA747 rapier looms system of knitting, loom rotating speed is 190r/min；
Opening time：Opening time is defined as 280 °；
Double shed technique：Using double shed, by graphene Polyamide Yarns stroke of harness frames regulating block, two lattice are moved down, make stone
The traverse increase of black alkene Polyamide Yarns heald frame, forms double shed；
Back beam height：The back rest from, back beam height is 95mm, moves down the back rest during production, increases the tension force of top line,
The sinking of top line is reduced, it is clearly favourable to shed open；
Weft insertion technique：It is 80 ° when sending sword to enter sword, connects latitude sword and move back the sword time for 280 °；
Warp tension：Using medium warp tension, 5kg tension weight, weight are respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides
The position of hammer can partially after machine some, reduce the warp tension of fabric；
The chucking power of bringer sword：Graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are compared with spun yarn, all smoothers,
Easily slipped in the jaw of bringer sword, therefore in production process, to increase the chucking power of bringer sword jaw.Mobile bringer sword jaw
The sponge of lower section, thus it is possible to vary the size of the chucking power of jaw；
The chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf：Graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn all smoothers, easily in yarn storage
Knocking on drum, therefore the chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf is increased during production, avoid Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose glue long as far as possible
The knocking over of silk；
Weft Insertion：Because Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are easily slipped from bringer sword jaw, therefore Weft Insertion
It is small.When tram passes through weft examining device, presser bar should not be passed through, reduce Weft Insertion.
3. the production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：The textile
Selection：Nexine fabric woven warp thread selects 150D/72F graphene Polyamide Yarns, and weft yarn is 100D/36F from graphene chinlon filament
It is 50D/24F with Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament, twist factor is 200-350；Top fabric woven, warp thread is photochromic viscous from 150D/72F
It is pink colour before glue long filament, discoloration, is sea blue color after discoloration, weft yarn long filament selects the photochromic viscose filament yarns of 150D/72F, discoloration
Preceding is white, is daffod after discoloration, and coloured silk point is red viscose staple fibre, and coloured silk point is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity is 30%,
Spacing is：200、300、600、450、250mm.
4. the production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：The group of the fabric
Knit design：Fabric tissue is from double-deck mock leno weave, and textura epidermoidea, open-work and plain cloth are alternately present；Nexine tissue, same to table
Layer tissue is the same, and open-work and plain weave are alternately present；Nexine is organized as plain weave, top layer during nexine tissue open-work during textura epidermoidea's open-work
It is organized as plain weave；Table warp, back warp press 1:1 arrangement；Weft yarn arrangement is：[(outer weft 1, outer weft 2) * 6, binding pick], the face of binding pick
Color will be selected to be close or identical with outer weft, back weft.
5. the production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：The fabric rule of fabric
Lattice, fabric breadth 154cm, fabric through it is close be 640/10cm, fabric filling density is 460/10cm, upper machine reed width 160cm, porter
205 teeth/10cm, 48, side yarn, full width total quantity of warps 9840, a flower period is 144, and full width 68 is spent, and ground tissue is per reed 3
Enter, Selvage Stitch enters per reed 2.
6. the production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of feature according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：The fabric into
Product specification：The Fabric width of fabric is 144cm, finished product through it is close be 684/10cm, finished product filling density is 474/10cm, arranges width
Shrinkage is 6.5%, and it is 3% to arrange long shrinkage, is 6.7% through crimp, and latitude crimp is 3.8%.
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| CN109853106A (en) * | 2018-11-05 | 2019-06-07 | 南通市通州区德胜纺织品有限公司 | The method for weaving of cotton ramie blending yarn and viscose glue kinckebocker yarn union |
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| CN115045024A (en) * | 2022-06-30 | 2022-09-13 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | Woven fabric with porous grains and processing technology |
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