CN113265748B - Fur crepe jacquard velvet and weaving method thereof - Google Patents

Fur crepe jacquard velvet and weaving method thereof Download PDF

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CN113265748B
CN113265748B CN202110519502.5A CN202110519502A CN113265748B CN 113265748 B CN113265748 B CN 113265748B CN 202110519502 A CN202110519502 A CN 202110519502A CN 113265748 B CN113265748 B CN 113265748B
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warp
layer
warp yarns
yarns
pile
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CN113265748A (en
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朱惠贤
孟彪
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Zhejiang Innovation Textile Co ltd
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Zhejiang Innovation Textile Co ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
    • D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
    • D03D27/06—Warp pile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A40/00—Adaptation technologies in agriculture, forestry, livestock or agroalimentary production
    • Y02A40/10—Adaptation technologies in agriculture, forestry, livestock or agroalimentary production in agriculture
    • Y02A40/22—Improving land use; Improving water use or availability; Controlling erosion

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Abstract

The invention relates to a weaving method of fur crepe jacquard velvet, which is formed by cutting and finishing an upper layer base cloth and a lower layer base cloth which are consolidated by pile warp yarns; the upper-layer base cloth is formed by interweaving upper-layer warp yarns and upper-layer weft yarns, and the lower-layer base cloth is formed by interweaving lower-layer warp yarns and lower-layer weft yarns; comprises weaving of suede fluff tidy parts and weaving of suede fluff furry. The invention relates to a fur crepe jacquard velvet and a weaving method thereof, which can be woven into upright velvet and also can be woven into inclined velvet, the velvet is tidy, upright, glossy and wild with inclined velvet, bright contrast is formed, and patterns are clear. The two weaving beams can be adopted for weaving, are convenient to manufacture and are popular with people.

Description

Fur crepe jacquard velvet and weaving method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to velvet fabric and the weaving technical field thereof, in particular to a velvet with a velvet crepe jacquard weave and a weaving method thereof.
Background
Due to the unique tissue structure of the velvet, the formed velvet surface is glossy, light and elegant, looks graceful and luxurious, and becomes a high-end product of textiles. However, thousands of piles are vertically fixed on the velour base cloth, and if only a few piles are inclined, the pile is very inelegant and unpleasant on the pile surface. Thus, velvet professionals have designed various kinds of jacquard velvet. Not only improves the quality of the velvet, but also can cover the flaws of the velvet such as the deflection of the velvet which happen to occur. Among them, there is a shadow jacquard velvet, in which some of the naps are intentionally made neat and some of the naps are deflected to produce another refraction, and the shadow jacquard velvet becomes an otherwise-acceptable shadow jacquard velvet. However, it is a harsh production condition requiring a tight ground warp and a loose ground warp, and three beams of pile warp. Many plants do not have this condition.
The applicant intends to design a weaving method without tight ground warp and loose ground warp from the simple beginning, and a fur-crape invisible jacquard velvet is produced at a production place, and can be produced by changing the drafting method, has strong stereoscopic impression, tidy part of villus, unique scene with part of villus similar to fur-crape shape, is invisible without being stretched, is invisible and is fashionable, and is deeply popular in the market.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a fur crepe jacquard velvet and a weaving method thereof, which can be woven into upright velvet and inclined velvet to be creped, the velvet is neat and upright, has rich luster and is inclined, and the velvet is bright in contrast, clear in pattern and convenient to manufacture and is deeply loved by people.
In order to solve the technical problem, the invention aims to realize that:
the invention relates to a weaving method of fur crepe jacquard velvet, which is formed by cutting and finishing an upper layer base cloth and a lower layer base cloth which are consolidated by pile warp yarns;
the upper-layer base cloth is formed by interweaving upper-layer warp yarns and upper-layer weft yarns, and the lower-layer base cloth is formed by interweaving lower-layer warp yarns and lower-layer weft yarns;
the upper-layer warp yarns comprise upper-layer first warp yarns, upper-layer second warp yarns, upper-layer third warp yarns, upper-layer fourth warp yarns, upper-layer fifth warp yarns, upper-layer sixth warp yarns, upper-layer seventh warp yarns and upper-layer eighth warp yarns; the upper layer weft yarns comprise upper layer first weft yarns, upper layer second weft yarns, upper layer third weft yarns and upper layer fourth weft yarns;
the lower-layer warp yarns comprise lower-layer first warp yarns, lower-layer second warp yarns, lower-layer third warp yarns, lower-layer fourth warp yarns, lower-layer fifth warp yarns, lower-layer sixth warp yarns, lower-layer seventh warp yarns and lower-layer eighth warp yarns; the lower layer weft yarns comprise lower layer first weft yarns, lower layer second weft yarns, lower layer third weft yarns and lower layer fourth weft yarns;
the pile warp yarns comprise first pile warp yarns, second pile warp yarns, third pile warp yarns and fourth pile warp yarns;
the weaving method comprises the following steps:
step one, warping:
arranging and warping an upper layer first warp, a lower layer first warp, an upper layer second warp, a lower layer second warp, an upper layer third warp, a lower layer third warp, an upper layer fourth warp, a lower layer fourth warp, an upper layer fifth warp, a lower layer fifth warp, an upper layer sixth warp, a lower layer sixth warp, an upper layer seventh warp, a lower layer seventh warp, an upper layer eighth warp and a lower layer eighth warp in sequence on a loom;
arranging the first, second, third and fourth pile warps in sequence, warping and finishing on a loom beam;
step two, drafting and reed inserting:
arranging the first pile warp yarns, the upper layer first warp yarns, the lower layer first warp yarns, the upper layer second warp yarns and the lower layer second warp yarns in sequence for drafting and inserting the first reed dent;
arranging the second pile warp yarns, the upper layer third warp yarns, the lower layer third warp yarns, the upper layer fourth warp yarns and the lower layer fourth warp yarns in sequence for drafting and inserting the second reed dent;
arranging third pile warp yarns, upper fifth warp yarns, lower fifth warp yarns, upper sixth warp yarns and lower sixth warp yarns in sequence, drafting and inserting the third reed dent;
arranging the fourth pile warp yarns, the upper seventh warp yarns, the lower seventh warp yarns, the upper eighth warp yarns and the lower eighth warp yarns in sequence, drafting and inserting the fourth reed dent;
circularly drafting and reeding according to the sequence;
thirdly, lifting heald beating-up weaving:
comprises weaving of suede fluff tidy parts and weaving of suede moss-shaped crepe vertical parts;
A. the heald lifting beating-up weaving process of the pile face tidy part is as follows:
a first shuttle:
lifting the first warp yarns of the upper layer, the fourth warp yarns of the upper layer, the fifth warp yarns of the upper layer and the eighth warp yarns of the upper layer upwards;
lifting the first warp yarns of the lower layer, the fourth warp yarns of the lower layer, the fifth warp yarns of the lower layer and the eighth warp yarns of the lower layer;
sinking the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns downwards;
lifting the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns upwards;
throwing the first weft yarns of the upper layer and the first weft yarns of the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a second shuttle:
lifting the upper second warp yarns, the upper third warp yarns, the upper sixth warp yarns and the upper seventh warp yarns upwards;
lifting the lower layer second warp, the lower layer third warp, the lower layer sixth warp and the lower layer seventh warp upwards;
lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing upper layer second weft yarns and lower layer second weft yarns for beating-up weaving;
a third shuttle:
lifting the first warp yarns of the upper layer, the fourth warp yarns of the upper layer, the fifth warp yarns of the upper layer and the eighth warp yarns of the upper layer upwards; lifting the first warp yarns of the lower layer, the fourth warp yarns of the lower layer, the fifth warp yarns of the lower layer and the eighth warp yarns of the lower layer; sinking the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns downwards;
lifting the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns upwards;
throwing third weft yarns on the upper layer and third weft yarns on the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a fourth shuttle:
lifting the upper second warp yarns, the upper third warp yarns, the upper sixth warp yarns and the upper seventh warp yarns upwards; lifting the lower layer second warp, the lower layer third warp, the lower layer sixth warp and the lower layer seventh warp upwards; lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing fourth weft yarns on the upper layer and fourth weft yarns on the lower layer for beating-up weaving;
finishing one cycle weaving at the pile tidying part of the pile surface, and performing cycle weaving;
B. the lifting and beating-up weaving process of the suede moss-shaped crepe vertical part is as follows:
a first shuttle:
lifting the upper layer first warp yarns, the upper layer second warp yarns, the upper layer fifth warp yarns and the upper layer sixth warp yarns; lifting the lower layer first warp yarns, the lower layer second warp yarns, the lower layer fifth warp yarns and the lower layer sixth warp yarns; sinking the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns downwards;
lifting the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns upwards;
throwing the first weft yarns of the upper layer and the first weft yarns of the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a second shuttle:
lifting the upper second warp yarns, the upper third warp yarns, the upper fourth warp yarns and the upper seventh warp yarns upwards;
lifting the lower layer second warp, the lower layer third warp, the lower layer fourth warp and the lower layer seventh warp;
lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing upper layer second weft yarns and lower layer second weft yarns, and beating up and weaving;
a third shuttle:
lifting the first warp yarns of the upper layer, the fourth warp yarns of the upper layer, the fifth warp yarns of the upper layer and the eighth warp yarns of the upper layer upwards;
lifting the first warp yarns of the lower layer, the fourth warp yarns of the lower layer, the fifth warp yarns of the lower layer and the eighth warp yarns of the lower layer;
lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing third weft yarns on the upper layer and third weft yarns on the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a fourth shuttle:
lifting the third warp of the upper layer, the sixth warp of the upper layer, the seventh warp of the upper layer and the eighth warp of the upper layer upwards;
lifting the lower third warp, the lower sixth warp, the lower seventh warp and the lower eighth warp upwards;
lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing the fourth weft yarns of the upper layer and the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
finishing a circular weaving process of the suede moss-shaped crepe vertical part, and circularly weaving;
fourthly, cutting velvet:
and splitting the connecting pile warp yarns between the upper-layer base cloth and the lower-layer base cloth for connecting the upper-layer base cloth and the lower-layer base cloth by using a pile cutting knife to form the fur-crape vertical jacquard velvet grey cloth.
On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferable scheme of the scheme: the weaving method further comprises a fifth step of dyeing, brushing and finishing.
On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferable scheme of the scheme: the weaving method uses a rapier loom.
On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferable scheme of the scheme: the pile face moss-shaped crape vertical part adopts an upper and lower plain weave and an upper and lower broken twill weave according to the warp 1:1 in an embedded arrangement.
On the basis of the above scheme and as a preferable scheme of the scheme: the upper layer warp yarns, the lower layer warp yarns, the upper layer weft yarns, the lower layer weft yarns and the pile warp yarns are all polyester multifilament yarns.
The invention also relates to the lichen crepe jacquard velvet prepared by the weaving method.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the invention relates to a fur crepe jacquard velvet and a weaving method thereof, which can be woven into upright velvet and also can be woven into inclined velvet, the velvet is tidy, upright, glossy and wild with inclined velvet, bright contrast is formed, and patterns are clear. The two weaving beams can be adopted for weaving, the manufacturing is convenient, and the weaving machine is popular with people.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic exterior view of a velvet fabric according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a block diagram of a jacquard velvet weave according to the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a view showing the yarn lifting law of the pile tidying part of the pile face;
FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the lifting law of yarns in the pile-face moss-like crepe portion.
The designations in the figures illustrate the following: t isUpper 1Is an upper layer first warp yarn; t isUpper 2Is an upper second warp yarn; t isUpper 3The third warp yarn of the upper layer; t isUpper 4Is the fourth warp of the upper layer; t isUpper 5Is the upper fifth warp; t isUpper 6Is the sixth warp yarn of the upper layer；TUpper 7The seventh warp yarn of the upper layer; t isUpper 8The eighth warp yarn of the upper layer; t isLower 1A lower layer first warp yarn; t isLower 2A lower layer of second warp yarns; t isLower 3A lower layer third warp yarn; t isLower 4The fourth warp of the lower layer; t isLower 5The lower fifth warp yarn; t isLower 6The lower layer of sixth warp yarns; t isLower 7The lower layer of the seventh warp yarn; t isLower 8The eighth warp of the lower layer; wUpper 1Is an upper first weft yarn; wUpper 2Is the upper second weft; wUpper 3An upper third weft yarn; wUpper 4The fourth weft yarn of the upper layer; wLower 1A lower first weft yarn; wLower 2The lower second weft yarn; wLower 3The lower third weft yarn; wLower 4Is the lower fourth weft yarn, R1Is a first pile warp yarn; r2Is a second pile warp yarn; r3Is third pile warp; r4Is a fourth pile warp; i, a suede fluff tidying part; II, suede moss-shaped crepe part.
In fig. 3 and 4, X represents the warp yarn being raised upward, "-" represents the frame being centered, "# e represents the frame being raised upward, and" ↓ "represents the frame being depressed downward.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described with reference to the following figures and specific examples.
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to fig. 1, 2, 3 and 4. The invention relates to a weaving method of fur crepe jacquard velvet, which is formed by cutting and finishing an upper layer base cloth and a lower layer base cloth which are consolidated by pile warp yarns;
the upper-layer base cloth is formed by interweaving upper-layer warp yarns and upper-layer weft yarns, and the lower-layer base cloth is formed by interweaving lower-layer warp yarns and lower-layer weft yarns.
The upper layer warp yarns comprise upper layer first warp yarns TUpper 1The second warp T on the upper layerUpper 2Upper third warp TUpper 3The fourth warp T on the upper layerUpper 4The fifth warp T on the upper layerUpper 5And the sixth warp T on the upper layerUpper 6And the seventh warp T of the upper layerUpper 7And the eighth warp T on the upper layerUpper 8(ii) a The upper weft yarnComprising an upper layer of first weft yarns WUpper 1Upper second weft yarn WUpper 2Upper layer third weft yarn WUpper 3The fourth weft yarn W of the upper layerUpper 4；
The lower layer warp yarn comprises a lower layer first warp yarn TLower 1The second warp T of the lower layerLower 2The third warp T of the lower layerLower 3The fourth warp T of the lower layerLower 4The fifth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 5The sixth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 6And the seventh warp T of the lower layerLower 7And the eighth warp T of the lower layerLower 8(ii) a The lower layer weft yarns comprise lower layer first weft yarns WLower 1The second weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 2The third weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 3The fourth weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 4；
The pile warp yarns comprise first pile warp yarns R1The second pile warp R2And the third pile warp R3Fourth pile warp yarn R4；
The weaving method comprises the following steps:
step one, warping:
putting the first warp yarn T on the upper layerUpper 1The first warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 1The second warp T on the upper layerUpper 2The second warp T of the lower layerLower 2The third warp T on the upper layerUpper 3The third warp T of the lower layerLower 3The fourth warp T on the upper layerUpper 4The fourth warp T of the lower layerLower 4The fifth warp T on the upper layerUpper 5The fifth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 5And the sixth warp T on the upper layerUpper 6The sixth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 6And the seventh warp T of the upper layerUpper 7And the seventh warp T of the lower layerLower 7The eighth warp T of the upper layerUpper 8And the eighth warp T of the lower layerLower 8Warping and finishing on a beam in sequence;
the first pile warp yarn R1The second pile warp R2And the third pile warp R3Fourth pile warp R4Arranging in sequence, warping on a beam;
step two, drafting and reed inserting:
the first pile warp yarn R1Upper first warp TUpper 1The lower layer isA warp yarn TLower 1The second warp T on the upper layerUpper 2The second warp T of the lower layerLower 2Arranging drafting in sequence and inserting the first reed dent;
second pile warp yarn R2Upper third warp TUpper 3The third warp T of the lower layerLower 3The fourth warp T on the upper layerUpper 4The fourth warp T of the lower layerLower 4Arranging drafting in sequence and inserting a second reed dent;
the third pile warp yarn R3The fifth warp T on the upper layerUpper 5The fifth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 5And the sixth warp T on the upper layerUpper 6The sixth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 6Arranging drafting in sequence and inserting a third reed dent;
the fourth pile warp yarn R4And the seventh warp T of the upper layerUpper 7And the seventh warp T of the lower layerLower 7And the eighth warp T on the upper layerUpper 8And the eighth warp T of the lower layerLower 8Arranging drafting in sequence and inserting a fourth reed dent;
circularly drafting and reed inserting according to the sequence;
thirdly, lifting heald beating-up weaving:
comprises weaving of suede fluff tidy parts and weaving of suede moss-shaped crepe vertical parts;
A. the heald lifting beating-up weaving process of the pile face tidy part is as follows:
a first shuttle:
putting the first warp yarn T on the upper layerUpper 1And the fourth warp T on the upper layerUpper 4The fifth warp T on the upper layerUpper 5And the eighth warp T on the upper layerUpper 8Upward lifting;
the first warp yarns T of the lower layerLower 1The fourth warp T of the lower layerLower 4The fifth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 5And the eighth warp T of the lower layerLower 8Upwards lifting;
the first pile warp yarn R1And the third pile warp R3Sinking downwards;
second pile warp yarn R2Fourth pile warp R4Upwards lifting;
depositing the upper first weft yarn WUpper 1First weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 1Beating-up and weaving;
a second shuttle:
the second warp yarn T of the upper layerUpper 2Upper third warp TUpper 3And the sixth warp T on the upper layerUpper 6And the seventh warp T of the upper layerUpper 7Upwards lifting;
the second warp yarns T of the lower layerLower 2The third warp T of the lower layerLower 3The sixth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 6And the seventh warp T of the lower layerLower 7Upwards lifting;
the first pile warp yarn R1And the third pile warp R3Upwards lifting;
second pile warp yarn R2Fourth pile warp R4Sinking downwards;
depositing the second weft yarn W of the upper layerUpper 2The second weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 2Beating-up and weaving;
a third shuttle:
putting the first warp yarn T on the upper layerUpper 1The fourth warp T on the upper layerUpper 4The fifth warp T on the upper layerUpper 5And the eighth warp T on the upper layerUpper 8Upwards lifting;
the first warp yarns T of the lower layerLower 1The fourth warp T of the lower layerLower 4The fifth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 5And the eighth warp T of the lower layerLower 8Upwards lifting;
the first pile warp yarn R1And the third pile warp R3Sinking downwards;
second pile warp yarn R2Fourth pile warp R4Upwards lifting;
the third weft W of the upper layer is insertedUpper 3The third weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 3Beating-up and weaving;
a fourth shuttle:
the second warp yarn T of the upper layerUpper 2Upper third warp TUpper 3And the sixth warp T on the upper layerUpper 6And the seventh warp T of the upper layerUpper 7Upwards lifting;
the second warp yarns T of the lower layerLower 2The third warp T of the lower layerLower 3The sixth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 6And the seventh warp T of the lower layerLower 7Upwards lifting；
The first pile warp yarn R1And the third pile warp R3Upwards lifting;
second pile warp yarn R2Fourth pile warp R4Sinking downwards;
the fourth weft yarn W of the upper layer is thrown inUpper 4The fourth weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 4Beating-up and weaving;
finishing one cycle weaving at the pile tidying part of the pile surface, and performing cycle weaving;
B. the lifting and beating-up weaving process of the suede moss-shaped crepe vertical part is as follows:
a first shuttle:
putting the first warp yarn T on the upper layerUpper 1The second warp T on the upper layerUpper 2The fifth warp T on the upper layerUpper 5And the sixth warp T on the upper layerUpper 6Upwards lifting;
the first warp yarns T of the lower layerLower 1The second warp T of the lower layerLower 2The fifth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 5The sixth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 6Upwards lifting;
the first pile warp yarn R1And the third pile warp R3Sinking downwards;
second pile warp yarn R2Fourth pile warp R4Upwards lifting;
depositing the upper first weft yarn WUpper 1First weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 1Beating-up and weaving;
a second shuttle:
the second warp yarn T of the upper layerUpper 2Upper third warp TUpper 3The fourth warp T on the upper layerUpper 4And the seventh warp T of the upper layerUpper 7Upward lifting;
the second warp yarns T of the lower layerLower 2The third warp T of the lower layerLower 3The fourth warp T of the lower layerLower 4And the seventh warp T of the lower layerLower 7Upwards lifting;
the first pile warp yarn R1And the third pile warp R3Upwards lifting;
second pile warp yarn R2Fourth pile warp R4Sinking downwards;
depositing the second weft yarn W of the upper layerUpper 2The second weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 2Beating-up and weaving;
a third shuttle:
putting the first warp yarn T on the upper layerUpper 1The fourth warp T on the upper layerUpper 4The fifth warp T on the upper layerUpper 5And the eighth warp T on the upper layerUpper 8Upwards lifting;
the first warp yarns T of the lower layerLower 1The fourth warp T of the lower layerLower 4The fifth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 5And the eighth warp T of the lower layerLower 8Upwards lifting;
the first pile warp yarn R1And the third pile warp R3Upwards lifting;
the second velvet R2Warp, fourth pile warp R4Sinking downwards;
the third weft W of the upper layer is insertedUpper 3The third weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 3Beating-up and weaving;
a fourth shuttle:
the third warp yarn T on the upper layerUpper 3And the sixth warp T on the upper layerUpper 6And the seventh warp T of the upper layerUpper 7And the eighth warp T on the upper layerUpper 8Upwards lifting;
the third warp yarns T of the lower layerLower 3The sixth warp yarn T of the lower layerLower 6And the seventh warp T of the lower layerLower 7And the eighth warp T of the lower layerLower 8Upwards lifting;
the first pile warp yarn R1And the third pile warp R3Upwards lifting;
second pile warp yarn R2Fourth pile warp R4Sinking downwards;
the fourth weft yarn W of the upper layer is thrown inUpper 4The fourth weft yarn W of the lower layerLower 4Beating-up and weaving;
finishing a circular weaving process of the suede moss-shaped crepe vertical part, and circularly weaving;
fourthly, cutting velvet:
and splitting the connecting pile warp yarns between the upper-layer base cloth and the lower-layer base cloth for connecting the upper-layer base cloth and the lower-layer base cloth by using a pile cutting knife to form the fur-crape vertical jacquard velvet grey cloth.
And fifthly, dyeing, brushing and post finishing.
Thus, the production of the fur-crape jacquard velvet is completed.
The invention relates to a manufacturing principle of a fur crepe jacquard velvet, which is characterized in that when weaving velvet is tidy and upright, in each reed dent, no matter the velvet warps are on the upper layer or the lower layer, the lifting and the settlement of the velvet warps are opposite to the movement of the ground warps close to the velvet warps. While the other ground warp performs the same movement as the pile warp. Therefore, the velvet warp is restricted from sliding left and right, the velvet warp is protected, the velvet base fabric is firmer, and the basic requirements of the velvet tissue structure are completely met.
For example, in the first shuttle and the second dent on the upper layer, when the second pile warp is lifted, the third ground warp on the upper layer close to the second pile warp is descended, and the fourth ground warp is ascended. When the second shuttle is used, the second pile warp sinks, the third ground warp on the upper layer rises, and the fourth ground warp falls. The motion law ensures that the pile warp is firmly controlled by the ground warp and the ground weft and cannot be inclined, so that the pile is tidy and upright.
When the velvet fur is weaved to be creped, the velvet base cloth is changed from a plain weave from one to the other to a crepe weave. When the weaving pile is straight and upright, the first warp yarn on the upper layer of the first reed dent is close to the first pile warp, the third warp yarn on the upper layer of the second reed dent is close to the second pile warp, the fifth warp yarn on the upper layer of the third reed dent is close to the third pile warp, and the seventh warp yarn on the upper layer of the fourth reed dent is close to the fourth pile warp. The movement locus of the two warps is a top-bottom plain weave, and the top second ground warp in the first reed dent, the top fourth ground warp in the second reed dent, the top sixth warp in the third reed dent and the top eighth warp in the fourth reed dent can be embedded into the top first, third, fifth and seventh warps, namely the top-bottom plain weave, according to the embedding method of one of the crepe weave manufacturing principles, the top second, fourth, sixth and eighth warps break the twill weave according to 2/2, and the crape weave is formed according to the arrangement ratio of the warps 1: 1. The base cloth can not only prevent the pile from shifting (because the first, third, fifth and seventh warps on the upper layer close to the pile warp do not change a lifting motion, but also can protect pile roots in contrast to the movement of the pile warp), but also ensure that the pile warp is solidified on the base cloth of the crepe structure, thereby leading the pile to be also creped obliquely.
Both can be woven into the fine hair neatly upright, also can be woven into fine hair crooked crape upright, and the neat upright fertile bright luster of fine hair and the field of fine hair crooked crape upright are not only unrestrained, form bright contrast, and the pattern is clear, the preparation is convenient, is loved by people deeply.
The foregoing detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the invention has been presented. It should be understood that numerous modifications and variations could be devised by those skilled in the art in light of the present teachings without departing from the inventive concepts. Therefore, the technical solutions available to those skilled in the art through logic analysis, reasoning and limited experiments based on the prior art according to the concept of the present invention should be within the scope of protection defined by the claims.

Claims (6)

1. The weaving method of the fur crepe jacquard velvet is characterized in that the fur crepe jacquard velvet is formed by cutting and finishing an upper layer base cloth and a lower layer base cloth which are consolidated by pile warp yarns;
the upper-layer base cloth is formed by interweaving upper-layer warp yarns and upper-layer weft yarns, and the lower-layer base cloth is formed by interweaving lower-layer warp yarns and lower-layer weft yarns;
the upper-layer warp yarns comprise upper-layer first warp yarns, upper-layer second warp yarns, upper-layer third warp yarns, upper-layer fourth warp yarns, upper-layer fifth warp yarns, upper-layer sixth warp yarns, upper-layer seventh warp yarns and upper-layer eighth warp yarns; the upper layer weft yarns comprise upper layer first weft yarns, upper layer second weft yarns, upper layer third weft yarns and upper layer fourth weft yarns;
the lower-layer warp yarns comprise lower-layer first warp yarns, lower-layer second warp yarns, lower-layer third warp yarns, lower-layer fourth warp yarns, lower-layer fifth warp yarns, lower-layer sixth warp yarns, lower-layer seventh warp yarns and lower-layer eighth warp yarns; the lower layer weft yarns comprise lower layer first weft yarns, lower layer second weft yarns, lower layer third weft yarns and lower layer fourth weft yarns;
the pile warp yarns comprise first pile warp yarns, second pile warp yarns, third pile warp yarns and fourth pile warp yarns;
the weaving method comprises the following steps:
step one, warping:
arranging and warping an upper layer first warp, a lower layer first warp, an upper layer second warp, a lower layer second warp, an upper layer third warp, a lower layer third warp, an upper layer fourth warp, a lower layer fourth warp, an upper layer fifth warp, a lower layer fifth warp, an upper layer sixth warp, a lower layer sixth warp, an upper layer seventh warp, a lower layer seventh warp, an upper layer eighth warp and a lower layer eighth warp in sequence on a loom;
arranging the first, second, third and fourth pile warps in sequence, warping and finishing on a loom beam;
step two, drafting and reed inserting:
arranging the first pile warp yarns, the upper layer first warp yarns, the lower layer first warp yarns, the upper layer second warp yarns and the lower layer second warp yarns in sequence for drafting and inserting the first reed dent;
arranging the second pile warp yarns, the upper layer third warp yarns, the lower layer third warp yarns, the upper layer fourth warp yarns and the lower layer fourth warp yarns in sequence for drafting and inserting the second reed dent;
arranging third pile warp yarns, upper fifth warp yarns, lower fifth warp yarns, upper sixth warp yarns and lower sixth warp yarns in sequence, drafting and inserting the third reed dent;
arranging the fourth pile warp yarns, the upper seventh warp yarns, the lower seventh warp yarns, the upper eighth warp yarns and the lower eighth warp yarns in sequence, drafting and inserting the fourth reed dent;
circularly drafting and reed inserting according to the sequence;
thirdly, lifting heald beating-up weaving:
comprises weaving of suede fluff tidy parts and weaving of suede moss-shaped crepe vertical parts;
A. the heald lifting beating-up weaving process of the pile face tidy part is as follows:
a first shuttle:
lifting the first warp yarns of the upper layer, the fourth warp yarns of the upper layer, the fifth warp yarns of the upper layer and the eighth warp yarns of the upper layer upwards;
lifting the first warp yarns of the lower layer, the fourth warp yarns of the lower layer, the fifth warp yarns of the lower layer and the eighth warp yarns of the lower layer;
sinking the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns downwards;
lifting the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns upwards;
throwing the first weft yarns of the upper layer and the first weft yarns of the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a second shuttle:
lifting the upper second warp yarns, the upper third warp yarns, the upper sixth warp yarns and the upper seventh warp yarns upwards;
lifting the lower layer second warp, the lower layer third warp, the lower layer sixth warp and the lower layer seventh warp upwards;
lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing upper layer second weft yarns and lower layer second weft yarns for beating-up weaving;
a third shuttle:
lifting the first warp yarns of the upper layer, the fourth warp yarns of the upper layer, the fifth warp yarns of the upper layer and the eighth warp yarns of the upper layer upwards;
lifting the first warp yarns of the lower layer, the fourth warp yarns of the lower layer, the fifth warp yarns of the lower layer and the eighth warp yarns of the lower layer;
sinking the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns downwards;
lifting the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns upwards;
throwing third weft yarns on the upper layer and third weft yarns on the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a fourth shuttle:
lifting the upper second warp yarns, the upper third warp yarns, the upper sixth warp yarns and the upper seventh warp yarns upwards;
lifting the lower layer second warp, the lower layer third warp, the lower layer sixth warp and the lower layer seventh warp upwards;
lifting the first and third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing fourth weft yarns on the upper layer and fourth weft yarns on the lower layer for beating-up weaving;
finishing one cycle weaving at the pile tidying part of the pile surface, and performing cycle weaving;
B. the lifting and beating-up weaving process of the suede moss-shaped crepe vertical part is as follows:
a first shuttle:
lifting the upper layer first warp yarns, the upper layer second warp yarns, the upper layer fifth warp yarns and the upper layer sixth warp yarns;
lifting the lower layer first warp yarns, the lower layer second warp yarns, the lower layer fifth warp yarns and the lower layer sixth warp yarns;
sinking the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns downwards;
lifting the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns upwards;
throwing the first weft yarns of the upper layer and the first weft yarns of the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a second shuttle:
lifting the upper second warp yarns, the upper third warp yarns, the upper fourth warp yarns and the upper seventh warp yarns upwards;
lifting the lower layer second warp, the lower layer third warp, the lower layer fourth warp and the lower layer seventh warp;
lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing upper layer second weft yarns and lower layer second weft yarns, and beating up and weaving;
a third shuttle:
lifting the first warp yarns of the upper layer, the fourth warp yarns of the upper layer, the fifth warp yarns of the upper layer and the eighth warp yarns of the upper layer upwards;
lifting the first warp yarns of the lower layer, the fourth warp yarns of the lower layer, the fifth warp yarns of the lower layer and the eighth warp yarns of the lower layer;
lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing third weft yarns on the upper layer and third weft yarns on the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a fourth shuttle:
lifting the third warp of the upper layer, the sixth warp of the upper layer, the seventh warp of the upper layer and the eighth warp of the upper layer upwards;
lifting the lower third warp, the lower sixth warp, the lower seventh warp and the lower eighth warp upwards;
lifting the first pile warp yarns and the third pile warp yarns upwards;
sinking the second pile warp yarns and the fourth pile warp yarns downwards;
throwing the fourth weft yarns of the upper layer and the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
finishing a circular weaving process of the suede moss-shaped crepe vertical part, and circularly weaving;
fourthly, cutting velvet:
and splitting the connecting pile warp yarns between the upper-layer base cloth and the lower-layer base cloth for connecting the upper-layer base cloth and the lower-layer base cloth by using a pile cutting knife to form the fur-crape vertical jacquard velvet grey cloth.
2. The method for weaving of the fur-creped jacquard velvet as claimed in claim 1, further comprising a fifth step of finishing.
3. The method for weaving of lichen crepe jacquard velvet as claimed in claim 1, wherein the loom used in the weaving method is a rapier loom.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein the pile-faced, tufted jacquard velvet is woven using a one-over-one-under plain weave and two-over-two-under broken twill weave in warp 1:1 in the array scale.
5. The method for weaving the fur-creped jacquard velvet as recited in claim 1, wherein the upper layer warp yarns, the lower layer warp yarns, the upper layer weft yarns, the lower layer weft yarns and the velvet warp yarns are all polyester multifilament yarns.
6. An fur-creped jacquard velvet produced by the weaving method of any one of claims 1 to 5.
CN202110519502.5A 2021-05-13 2021-05-13 Fur crepe jacquard velvet and weaving method thereof Active CN113265748B (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106637579A (en) * 2016-11-22 2017-05-10 浙江英诺威纺织有限公司 Velour with nap inclining in widthwise direction and weaving method of velour
CN110129952A (en) * 2019-06-27 2019-08-16 蒋伟泽 A kind of two-sided shade silk borcade velvet and its method for weaving
CN209412414U (en) * 2018-12-05 2019-09-20 柯林(福建)服饰有限公司 A kind of warming trousers of shuttle spinning stretch
CN111334915A (en) * 2020-03-13 2020-06-26 浙江英诺威纺织有限公司 Production process for twill velvet with base cloth being two-down-one-up-three-page

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106637579A (en) * 2016-11-22 2017-05-10 浙江英诺威纺织有限公司 Velour with nap inclining in widthwise direction and weaving method of velour
CN209412414U (en) * 2018-12-05 2019-09-20 柯林(福建)服饰有限公司 A kind of warming trousers of shuttle spinning stretch
CN110129952A (en) * 2019-06-27 2019-08-16 蒋伟泽 A kind of two-sided shade silk borcade velvet and its method for weaving
CN111334915A (en) * 2020-03-13 2020-06-26 浙江英诺威纺织有限公司 Production process for twill velvet with base cloth being two-down-one-up-three-page

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