CN114232181B - Manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradual-change jacquard fabric by double-handle jacquard - Google Patents
Manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradual-change jacquard fabric by double-handle jacquard Download PDFInfo
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- CN114232181B CN114232181B CN202111349971.3A CN202111349971A CN114232181B CN 114232181 B CN114232181 B CN 114232181B CN 202111349971 A CN202111349971 A CN 202111349971A CN 114232181 B CN114232181 B CN 114232181B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/547—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads with optical functions other than colour, e.g. comprising light-emitting fibres
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
Abstract
The invention discloses a manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradual change jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard, which comprises the following steps: s1, selecting a double-handle jacquard machine, and determining the number of main pattern needles; s2, determining the apparent warp and weft densities of the finished product of the fabric according to the thickness and the tissue types of the warp yarns and the weft yarns; s3, determining the size of the pattern, wherein the number of warp cycles of the pattern is half of the number of main pattern needles; s4, designing a pattern; s5, determining warp arrangement, wherein warp yarns are divided into a first system and a second system; s6, determining weft arrangement; s7, designing a structure, interweaving weft yarns with warp yarns of a first system or a second system, interweaving the warp yarns of the second system with warp yarns in the same pattern as weft yarns in the same pattern as warp yarns in the weft pattern; s8, selecting materials of warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving to obtain the single-width gradual change jacquard fabric. The invention can use double-handle jacquard to manufacture single-width fabric.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradual change jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard.
Background
On the jacquard, the pattern cards are sleeved on the pattern cylinder, one pattern card is turned over every weft, and the pattern cylinder is pressed against the transverse needle once. When the thread board has holes, the head end of the transverse needle extends into the holes of the thread board and the flower cylinder, so that the hook end of the straight needle is still hung on the lifting knife. When the lifting knife ascends, the straight needle ascends along with the lifting, the heddle is driven to lift through the head thread hook and the harness cord, and the warp yarn penetrating into the heddle eye at the moment also ascends along with the lifting, so that an upper layer of the shed is formed. A heald hammer is suspended in the lower heald ring of the heald wire, and plays a role in heald return by virtue of the weight of the heald hammer when the shed is closed. When no eyelet is arranged on the card, the transverse needle retreats through the raised head to push the corresponding straight needle, so that the hook end of the straight needle is separated from the lifting knife, and therefore, the heald wire and the warp wire connected with the straight needle are not lifted, and the warp wire is sunk below to form the lower layer of the shed. The movement of each warp yarn is determined according to the existence of holes or no holes on the pattern plate, and the holes on the pattern plate are rolled according to the design requirements of patterns and tissues, so that the movement of the warp yarn also meets the requirements of patterns and tissues, and the fabric with complex patterns can be manufactured.
The single-handle hanging and the double-handle hanging are common jacquard machine assembly, one tattooing needle controls one warp yarn to be the single-handle hanging in one pattern circulation, and a unit pattern shown in figure 1 can be woven in the width direction; one tattooing needle controls two warps to be double-handle hanging in one pattern cycle, and two repeated patterns shown in figure 2 are woven in the width direction. Thus, in the prior art, single weave patterns cannot be made with double handle jacquard machines.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a manufacturing method for weaving a single-width gradual change jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard, which utilizes the double-handle jacquard to weave the single-width fabric.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradual change jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard loom comprises the following steps:
s1, selecting a double-handle jacquard machine, and determining the number of main pattern needles;
s2, determining the apparent warp and weft densities of the finished product of the fabric according to the thickness and the tissue types of the warp yarns and the weft yarns;
s3, determining the size of the pattern, and enabling the number of warp cycles of the pattern to be half of the number of main pattern needles;
s4, designing a pattern, enabling the pattern to be square and continuous, enabling the width direction of the pattern to be connected with two return positions, and designing colors to form a single gradual change effect;
s5, determining warp arrangement, wherein the warp yarns are divided into a first system and a second system, the first system is used for arranging warp yarn A, the second system is used for arranging warp yarn A and warp yarn B in a segmented mode, and one of the warp yarn A and the warp yarn B is dark and the other is light;
s6, determining weft arrangement, wherein the weft comprises three systems of weft A, weft B and weft C, the weft A has the same color as the warp B, the weft C has the same color as the warp A, and the weft B has a transition color between the weft A and the weft C;
s7, designing a weave, wherein the width direction comprises an adjacent area E and an adjacent area F, the weave in the area E and the weave in the area F are the same, the area E and the area F comprise a plurality of weave, each weave is a weft satin weave or a warp satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns on the surface of the fabric, the area F is divided into an adjacent area F1 and an area F2, the area E and the area F are correspondingly arranged with warp yarns A of the first system, the area E and the area F1 are correspondingly arranged with warp yarns B of the second system, the area F2 is correspondingly arranged with warp yarns A of the second system, the weft yarns are interweaved with warp yarns of the first system or the second system, the warp yarns of the second system are interweaved with weft yarns in a surface with warp satin yarns in the same color as the weft yarns in the surface of the craftsmanship, and the warp yarns of the first system are interweaved with weft yarns in the weft satin yarns in the surface;
s8, selecting materials of warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving, and obtaining a single-width gradual change jacquard fabric, wherein the structures of the tissues are the same, the colors of two weaving forms of weft yarn and warp yarn A interweaving and weft yarn and warp yarn B interweaving are changed on the surface of the fabric.
The invention also has the following preferred designs:
the weft yarn of step S6 of the present invention also includes a weft yarn D of free color.
The invention comprises a plurality of tissues, wherein the region E is provided with a tissue 1, a tissue 2, a tissue 3 and a tissue 4, the region F1 is provided with the tissue 1, the tissue 2 and the tissue 3, and the region F2 is provided with the tissue 1, the tissue 2, the tissue 3 and the tissue 4;
tissue 1: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp face satin weave, which is marked as a weave 1A, the warp yarn B and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp face satin weave, which is marked as a weave 1B, and the weave 1A and the weave 1B are different in color on the surface of the fabric;
tissue 2: warp yarn A and weft yarn B are interwoven into weft-face satin weave, which is marked as weave 2, and the color of the weave 2 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged;
tissue 3: warp yarn A and weft yarn A are interwoven into weft-face satin weave, which is marked as weave 3, and the color of the weave 3 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged;
tissue 4: the satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarn A with weft yarn D or the satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarn B with weft yarn D, denoted weave 4, has a different fabric surface color than the weave formed by interweaving weft yarn D with warp yarn A and weft yarn B.
The number of the main pattern needles is 9600.
The width of the zone F2 of the present invention = 1/3 (width of the zone E + width of the zone F), i.e. the warp yarns of the second system are arranged in 6210 warp yarns B, 3390 warp yarn a.
The warp yarn and the weft yarn are common yarns or whole body luminous optical fibers, and the luminous fabric is manufactured when the whole body luminous optical fibers are adopted.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. under the condition of not changing original equipment, the invention connects two square continuous patterns, carries out color design, the color design is gradual change effect, takes dark color and light color as the color of warp yarn according to the change of the color, carries out warp arrangement, and the warp yarn is divided into two systems, for example, a first system is dark warp yarn, a second system is arranged by dark and light color warp yarn in a segmented way, and weft yarn is at least three systems, wherein two weft yarn systems are dark color and light color identical to the warp yarn, the other weft yarn system is transition color between dark color and light color, the color of the warp yarn is identical to that of the weft yarn in the design, the warp yarn of the second system is interwoven in the form of warp face satin and weft yarn in the design, the warp yarn of the first system is interwoven in the form of weft face satin and weft yarn in the design. By means of the arrangement, the surface color of the fabric is changed under the condition that the tissue is unchanged, and the single gradual change effect is formed integrally.
2. The method breaks through the recognition that the double-handle jacquard machine cannot weave the single-amplitude jacquard fabric, and the double-handle jacquard machine is used for manufacturing the single-amplitude fabric with doubled pattern size, so that the visual impact of the fabric is improved, the artistic sense is enhanced, and the method can be widely used in the design of indoor decorative fabrics to manufacture home space home textile products such as curtains, cloth holding, digital jacquard art works and the like.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a unit pattern;
FIG. 2 is a schematic illustration of two repeating patterns woven by a prior art double handle jacquard;
FIG. 3 is a pattern division diagram of a double handle jacquard weave pattern of the present invention, with areas E and F being the same pattern;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the warp arrangement of the pattern woven by the double handle jacquard machine of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a graphic illustration of the colors of warp and weft yarns in an embodiment;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the internal weave of a pattern woven with a double handle jacquard machine according to the present invention;
FIG. 7 is an enlarged view of region F of FIG. 6;
FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram of tissue 1 in an embodiment;
FIG. 9 is a schematic diagram of tissue 2 in an embodiment;
FIG. 10 is a schematic diagram of tissue 3 in an embodiment;
FIG. 11 is a schematic diagram of tissue 4 in an embodiment;
FIG. 12 is a schematic representation of a single progressive jacquard fabric woven with a double handle jacquard machine according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
The following detailed description of the present invention is presented in conjunction with the drawings and examples to enable one of ordinary skill in the art to better understand and practice the present invention.
Example 1
As shown in fig. 3 to 12, a method for manufacturing a single-width progressive jacquard fabric woven by a double-handle jacquard machine, comprising the steps of:
s1, selecting a double-handle jacquard, and determining the number of main pattern needles 9600;
s2, determining the apparent warp and weft densities of the finished product of the fabric according to the thickness and the tissue types of the warp yarns and the weft yarns;
s3, determining the size of the pattern, enabling the number of warp circulation of the pattern to be half of the number of main pattern needles, namely 4800, and designing weft circulation according to requirements;
s4, designing a pattern, enabling the pattern to be square and continuous, enabling the width direction of the pattern to be connected with two return positions, and designing colors to form a single gradual change effect;
s5, determining warp arrangement, wherein as shown in fig. 3 and 4, the warp yarns are divided into a first system and a second system, wherein the first system is used for arranging warp yarn A, and the second system is used for arranging warp yarn A and warp yarn B in a segmented manner, one of the warp yarn A and the warp yarn B is dark, and the other warp yarn B is light;
s6, determining weft arrangement, wherein the weft comprises four systems of weft A, weft B, weft C and weft D, as shown in FIG. 5, the weft A has the same color as the warp B, the weft C has the same color as the warp A, the weft B has a transition color between the weft A and the weft C, and the weft D has a free color;
s7, designing a weave, wherein the width direction comprises an adjacent area E and an area F, the weave in the area E and the area F are the same, and the area E and the area F comprise a plurality of weave, as shown in the combination of FIG. 6 and FIG. 7, each weave is a weft satin weave or a warp satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns on the surface of the fabric, the area F is divided into an adjacent area F1 and an area F2, the area E and the area F are correspondingly arranged to warp yarns A of the first system, the area E and the area F1 are correspondingly arranged to warp yarns B of the second system, the area F2 is correspondingly arranged to warp yarns A of the second system, the weft yarns are interweaved with warp yarns of the first system or the second system, the warp yarns of the second system are interweaved with warp yarns and weft yarns in the satin color in the surface, the warp yarns of the first system are interweaved with weft yarns in the satin color in the surface;
s8, selecting materials of warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving, and obtaining a single-width gradual change jacquard fabric, wherein the structures of the tissues are the same, the colors of two weaving forms of weft yarn and warp yarn A interweaving and weft yarn and warp yarn B interweaving are changed on the surface of the fabric.
As a preferred embodiment:
the present embodiment includes a plurality of tissues, as shown in fig. 6, a region E having a tissue 1, a tissue 2, a tissue 3, and a tissue 4, a region F1 having a tissue 1, a tissue 2, and a tissue 3, and a region F2 having a tissue 1, a tissue 2, a tissue 3, and a tissue 4; the warp yarn is provided with a first system and a second system, the weft yarn is provided with four systems, the weft yarn can be interwoven with the warp yarn of the first system only, and can also be interwoven with the warp yarn of the second system only, when the warp yarn of the first system is on the surface, the back lining of the warp yarn of the second system is under the surface, and the surface is invisible, otherwise, when the warp yarn of the second system is on the surface, the back lining of the warp yarn of the first system is under the surface.
As shown in fig. 8, tissue 1: the warp yarn is interwoven with weft yarns C to form a satin weave, the satin weave is marked as 1A, the weft yarn C is interwoven with warp yarns B to form a satin weave, the satin weave is marked as 1B, and the weave 1A and the weave 1B are different in color on the surface of the fabric, namely the weave 1 is the same, and the color of the warp yarn interwoven with the weft yarns is different, so that the surface of the fabric is different in color;
as shown in fig. 9, tissue 2: warp yarn A and weft yarn B are interwoven into weft satin weave, which is marked as weave 2, and the color of the weave 2 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged, namely the surface color of the weave 2 in the area E, the area F1 and the area F2 is the same;
as shown in fig. 10, tissue 3: warp yarn A and weft yarn A are interwoven into weft satin weave, which is marked as weave 3, wherein the color of the weave 3 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged, namely the surface color of the weave 3 in the area E is the same as that of the weave 3 in the area F1 and the area F2;
as shown in fig. 11, tissue 4: the satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarn A with weft yarn D or the satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarn B with weft yarn D, denoted weave 4, has a different fabric surface color than the weave formed by interweaving weft yarn D with warp yarn A and weft yarn B.
The invention utilizes an arrangement in which the color changes without the tissue becoming, such as tissue 1; part of the tissue is color-invariant across regions, such as tissue 2 and tissue 3; and partial tissues only slightly change the color when crossing regions, such as the tissue 4, so that the single-amplitude effect of doubling the size of the fabric is finally realized.
In this embodiment, the width of the area F2=1/3 (the width of the area e+the width of the area F), that is, the warp yarns of the second system are arranged according to the 6210 warp yarns B and 3390 warp yarns a, and the width of the area F2 can be adjusted according to the design requirement of the pattern.
Example two
This embodiment differs from embodiment one in that the weft yarn has only three systems, including weft yarn a, weft yarn B and weft yarn C. The tissues of the region E and the region F do not contain the tissue 4.
Under the condition of not changing original equipment, the invention connects two continuous square patterns, carries out color design, the color design is gradual change effect, takes dark color and light color as the color of warp yarn according to the change of the color, carries out warp arrangement, the warp yarn is divided into two systems, the first system is dark warp yarn, the second system is arranged by dark and light color warp yarn in a segmented way, and the weft yarn is at least three systems, wherein the two weft yarn systems are dark color and light color identical to the warp yarn, the other weft yarn system is transition color between dark color and light color, the color of the warp yarn in the design is identical to the color of the warp yarn, the warp yarn in the design is interweaved in the form of warp face satin and weft yarn, the warp yarn in the design is identical to the color of the weft yarn in the design, and the warp yarn in the first system is interweaved in the form of weft face satin and weft yarn. By means of arrangement, the surface color of the fabric is changed under the condition that the organization is unchanged, a single gradual change effect is integrally formed, the size of the fabric is doubled, artistic sense is enhanced, and visual impact is increased.
The warp yarn and the weft yarn are common yarns or whole body luminous optical fibers, and the luminous fabric is manufactured when the whole body luminous optical fibers are adopted.
The above embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, but not limiting, and any modifications and improvements based on the concept of the present invention should fall within the scope of the present invention, and the specific scope of the present invention is defined by the claims.
Claims (6)
1. The manufacturing method for weaving the single-width gradual change jacquard fabric by using the double-handle jacquard machine is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
s1, selecting a double-handle jacquard machine, and determining the number of main pattern needles;
s2, determining the apparent warp and weft densities of the finished product of the fabric according to the thickness and the tissue types of the warp yarns and the weft yarns;
s3, determining the size of the pattern, and enabling the number of warp cycles of the pattern to be half of the number of main pattern needles;
s4, designing a pattern, enabling the pattern to be square and continuous, enabling the width direction of the pattern to be connected with two return positions, and designing colors to form a single gradual change effect;
s5, determining warp arrangement, wherein the warp yarns are divided into a first system and a second system, the first system is used for arranging warp yarn A, the second system is used for arranging warp yarn A and warp yarn B in a segmented mode, and one of the warp yarn A and the warp yarn B is dark and the other is light;
s6, determining weft arrangement, wherein the weft comprises three systems of weft A, weft B and weft C, the weft A has the same color as the warp B, the weft C has the same color as the warp A, and the weft B has a transition color between the weft A and the weft C;
s7, designing a weave, wherein the width direction comprises an adjacent area E and an adjacent area F, the weave in the area E and the weave in the area F are the same, the area E and the area F comprise a plurality of weave, each weave is a weft satin weave or a warp satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns on the surface of the fabric, the area F is divided into an adjacent area F1 and an area F2, the area E and the area F are correspondingly arranged with warp yarns A of the first system, the area E and the area F1 are correspondingly arranged with warp yarns B of the second system, the area F2 is correspondingly arranged with warp yarns A of the second system, the weft yarns are interweaved with warp yarns of the first system or the second system, the warp yarns of the second system are interweaved with warp yarns in the same color as warp satin and weft yarns in the surface, the warp yarns of the first system are interweaved with weft satin yarns and weft yarns in the surface as weft satin colors;
s8, selecting materials of warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving, and obtaining a single-width gradual change jacquard fabric, wherein the structures of the tissues are the same, the colors of two weaving forms of weft yarn and warp yarn A interweaving and weft yarn and warp yarn B interweaving are changed on the surface of the fabric.
2. The method for producing a jacquard fabric with double handle jacquard weave according to claim 1, wherein the weft yarn of step S6 further includes weft yarn D of free color.
3. The method for manufacturing the single-width graded jacquard fabric woven by the double-handle jacquard machine according to claim 2, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the region E has tissue 1, tissue 2, tissue 3, and tissue 4, the region F1 has tissue 1, tissue 2, and tissue 3, and the region F2 has tissue 1, tissue 2, tissue 3, and tissue 4;
tissue 1: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp face satin weave, which is marked as a weave 1A, the warp yarn B and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp face satin weave, which is marked as a weave 1B, and the weave 1A and the weave 1B are different in color on the surface of the fabric;
tissue 2: warp yarn A and weft yarn B are interwoven into weft-face satin weave, which is marked as weave 2, and the color of the weave 2 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged;
tissue 3: warp yarn A and weft yarn A are interwoven into weft-face satin weave, which is marked as weave 3, and the color of the weave 3 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged;
tissue 4: the satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarn A with weft yarn D or the satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarn B with weft yarn D, denoted weave 4, has a different fabric surface color than the weave formed by interweaving weft yarn D with warp yarn A and weft yarn B.
4. A method of making a single progressive jacquard fabric woven with a double handle jacquard machine according to claim 3, characterized in that: the number of the main pattern needles is 9600.
5. The method for manufacturing the single-width graded jacquard fabric woven by the double-handle jacquard machine according to claim 4, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the width of the region F2 = 1/3 (width of the region E + width of the region F), i.e. the warp yarns of the second system are arranged in 6210 warp yarns B, 3390 warp yarn a.
6. The method for manufacturing a single-width progressive jacquard fabric woven by a double-handle jacquard machine according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: the warp yarns and the weft yarns are common yarns or whole body luminous optical fibers.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN202111349971.3A CN114232181B (en) | 2021-11-15 | 2021-11-15 | Manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradual-change jacquard fabric by double-handle jacquard |
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| CN202111349971.3A CN114232181B (en) | 2021-11-15 | 2021-11-15 | Manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradual-change jacquard fabric by double-handle jacquard |
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| CN114232181B true CN114232181B (en) | 2023-07-21 |
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| JP6152520B2 (en) * | 2014-05-02 | 2017-06-28 | 国立大学法人山梨大学 | Method, apparatus and program for generating jacquard fabric pattern |
| CN106283349B (en) * | 2016-08-30 | 2018-10-30 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | Woven label and its method for weaving with imitative tie dyeing effect |
| CN107988682B (en) * | 2018-01-08 | 2020-11-10 | 浙江理工大学 | Weaving method of double-warp three-weft jacquard fabric with single weft gradually changing color development |
| CN108035048B (en) * | 2018-01-08 | 2020-11-10 | 浙江理工大学 | Weaving method of double-warp three-weft jacquard fabric with double-weft gradient color development |
| CN113046887A (en) * | 2021-03-12 | 2021-06-29 | 江苏明源纺织有限公司 | Low-cost single-width jacquard mounting process |
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