CN114232181A - Manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using double-handle jacquard machine - Google Patents
Manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using double-handle jacquard machine Download PDFInfo
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- CN114232181A CN114232181A CN202111349971.3A CN202111349971A CN114232181A CN 114232181 A CN114232181 A CN 114232181A CN 202111349971 A CN202111349971 A CN 202111349971A CN 114232181 A CN114232181 A CN 114232181A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/547—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads with optical functions other than colour, e.g. comprising light-emitting fibres
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
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Abstract
The invention discloses a method for manufacturing single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine, which comprises the following steps: s1, selecting a double-handle jacquard machine, and determining the number of main grain needles; s2, determining the apparent warp and weft density of a finished fabric according to the thicknesses and the tissue types of the warps and the wefts; s3, determining the size of the pattern design drawing, wherein the number of the warp cycles of the pattern design drawing is half of the number of main pattern needles; s4, designing a pattern; s5, determining warp arrangement, wherein warp yarns are divided into a first system and a second system; s6, determining weft arrangement; s7, designing a weave, interweaving weft yarns with warp yarns of a first system or a second system, wherein the warp yarns of the second system are interwoven with the weft yarns in the same color as the warp yarns in the artistic color, the warp yarns of the second system are interwoven with the weft yarns in the same color as the weft yarns in the artistic color, and the warp yarns of the first system are interwoven with the weft yarns in the same color as the weft yarns in the weft surface satin; s8, selecting materials of warp yarns and weft yarns for weaving to obtain the single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric. The invention can be used for manufacturing single-width fabrics by using a double-handle hanging jacquard machine.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a method for manufacturing single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine.
Background
On the jacquard, the pattern card is sleeved on the cylinder, and the cylinder is pressed against the transverse needle once when one weft is woven and one pattern card is turned over. When the pattern plate is provided with holes, the head end of the horizontal needle extends into the holes of the pattern plate and the cylinder, so that the hook end of the straight needle is still hung on the lifting knife. When the lifting knife rises, the straight needle rises along with the lifting knife, the harness wire is driven to lift through the first line hook and the harness wire, and the warp wire penetrating into the harness eye at the moment also lifts along with the lifting, so that the upper layer of the shed is formed. The heald weight is hung in the lower heald ring of the heald, and the heald weight plays a role in heald return when the shed is closed. When no hole is formed on the card, the horizontal needle retreats and passes through the raised head to push the corresponding straight needle, so that the hook end of the straight needle is separated from the lifting knife, the harness wire and the warp wire which are connected with the straight needle are not lifted, and the warp wire is sunk to form the lower layer of the shed. Therefore, the movement of each warp yarn is determined according to the holes or no holes on the pattern plate, and the holes on the pattern plate are rolled according to the design requirements of patterns and textures, so that the movement of the warp yarns also meets the requirements of the patterns and the textures, and the fabric with more complex patterns can be manufactured.
Single-handle and double-handle cranes are common jacquard machines, one pattern needle controls one warp yarn to be the single-handle crane in one pattern cycle, and a unit pattern as shown in figure 1 can be woven in the width direction; a pattern needle controls two warp yarns to be double-handled in one pattern cycle, and two repeated patterns as shown in fig. 2 are woven in the width direction. Therefore, in the prior art, the single-width weave can not be made by a double-handle jacquard.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for manufacturing single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine, which is used for manufacturing single-width fabric by using the double-handle jacquard machine.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine comprises the following steps:
s1, selecting a double-handle jacquard machine, and determining the number of main grain needles;
s2, determining the apparent warp and weft density of a finished fabric according to the thicknesses and the tissue types of the warps and the wefts;
s3, determining the size of the pattern, wherein the number of the warp cycles of the pattern is half of the number of the main pattern needles;
s4, designing a pattern, enabling the pattern to be continuous in four directions, enabling the width direction of the pattern to return to two positions, and designing colors to form a single-width gradual change effect;
s5, determining warp arrangement, wherein the warps are divided into a first system and a second system, the first system is used for arranging warps A, the second system is used for arranging warps A and warps B in a segmented mode, and one of the warps A and the warps B is dark in color and the other is light in color;
s6, determining weft arrangement, wherein the weft comprises a weft yarn A, a weft yarn B and a weft yarn C, the color of the weft yarn A is the same as that of the warp yarn B, the color of the weft yarn C is the same as that of the warp yarn A, and the color of the weft yarn B is a transition color between the weft yarn A and the weft yarn C;
s7, designing a tissue, wherein the width direction comprises an area E and an area F which are adjacent, the tissues in the area E and the area F are the same, the region E and the region F both comprise a plurality of weaves, each weave is a weft-faced satin weave or a warp-faced satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns on the surface of the fabric, and the area F is divided into an area F1 and an area F2 which are adjacent, so that the area E and the area F correspondingly arrange the warp yarn A of the first system, the region E and the region F1 are arranged with the warp yarn B of the second system correspondingly, the region F2 is arranged with the warp yarn a of the second system correspondingly, the weft yarn is interwoven with the warp yarn of the first system or the second system, the warp yarn of the second system is interwoven with the weft yarn in the same color as the warp yarn in the artistic color, the warp yarn of the second system is interwoven with the weft yarn in the same color as the weft yarn in the artistic color, and the warp yarn of the first system is interwoven with the weft yarn in the same color as the weft surface satin;
s8, selecting materials of the warp yarns and the weft yarns for weaving, wherein the structures are the same, and the colors presented on the surface of the fabric in two weaving modes of interweaving the weft yarns and the warp yarns A and interweaving the weft yarns and the warp yarns B are changed to obtain the single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric.
The invention also has the following preferred design:
the weft yarn of step S6 of the present invention also includes weft yarn D of the free color.
A plurality of tissues are encompassed in the present invention, the region E having tissue 1, tissue 2, tissue 3, and tissue 4, the region F1 having tissue 1, tissue 2, and tissue 3, the region F2 having tissue 1, tissue 2, tissue 3, and tissue 4;
tissue 1: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp-faced satin weave, which is marked as a weave 1A, and the warp yarn B and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp-faced satin weave, which is marked as a weave 1B, wherein the weave 1A and the weave 1B have different colors on the surface of the fabric;
tissue 2: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn B are interwoven into a weft surface satin weave, which is marked as a weave 2, and the color of the weave 2 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged;
tissue 3: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn A are interwoven into a weft surface satin weave, which is marked as a weave 3, and the color of the weave 3 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged;
tissue 4: the fabric surface color formed by interweaving the weft yarn D with the warp yarn A is different from that formed by interweaving the weft yarn D with the warp yarn A, and the weft surface satin weave formed by interweaving the warp yarn B with the weft yarn D is marked as a weave 4.
The number of the main lines of the invention is 9600.
The width of the region F2 is 1/3 (the width of the region E + the width of the region F), that is, the warp yarns of the second system are arranged according to 6210 warp yarns B and 3390 warp yarns a.
The warp and weft are common yarns or whole body light-emitting optical fibers, and the light-emitting fabric is made by adopting the whole body light-emitting optical fibers.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the invention takes dark color and light color as the colors of warp yarns according to the change of the colors, and arranges the warp yarns in warp, the warp yarns are divided into two systems, for example, the first system is dark color warp yarns, the second system is arranged by dark and light color warp yarns in sections, the weft yarns are at least three systems, two weft yarn systems are dark color and light color which are the same as the warp yarns, the other weft yarn system is transition color between the dark color and the light color, the color of the craft color is the same as the colors of the warp yarns, the warp yarns of the second system are interwoven with the weft yarns by warp surface satins on the surface, the color of the craft color is the same as the colors of the weft yarns, and the warp yarns of the first system are interwoven with the weft yarns by weft surface satins on the surface. By utilizing the warp arrangement, the surface color of the fabric is changed under the condition of unchanging the texture, and the single-width gradually-changing effect is integrally formed.
2. The method breaks through the cognition that the double-handle jacquard loom can not weave single-width jacquard fabric, the single-width jacquard fabric with the pattern return size doubled is manufactured by the double-handle jacquard loom, the visual impact of the fabric is improved, and the artistic sense is enhanced.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a cell pattern;
FIG. 2 is two repeating patterns woven with a conventional double-handled jacquard;
FIG. 3 is a view of the weave pattern of the present invention using a double bar jacquard, with region E and region F having the same weave;
FIG. 4 is a schematic representation of the warp alignment of a double bar jacquard weave pattern according to the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a color legend for the warp and weft yarns in the example;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the internal structure of a double bar jacquard weave pattern according to the present invention;
FIG. 7 is an enlarged view of area F of FIG. 6;
FIG. 8 is a schematic view of the tissue 1 in the example;
FIG. 9 is a schematic view of the tissue 2 in the example;
FIG. 10 is a schematic view of the tissue 3 in the example;
FIG. 11 is a schematic view of the tissue 4 in the example;
FIG. 12 is a schematic view of a single width graded jacquard fabric woven with a double bar jacquard of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention are described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and examples, so that those skilled in the art can better understand and implement the technical solutions of the present invention.
Example one
As shown in fig. 3 to 12, a method for manufacturing a single width gradually changing jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine comprises the following steps:
s1, selecting a double-handle jacquard, and determining 9600 of main jacquard needles;
s2, determining the apparent warp and weft density of a finished fabric according to the thicknesses and the tissue types of the warps and the wefts;
s3, determining the size of the pattern design drawing, wherein the number of warp cycles of the pattern design drawing is half of the number of main needles, namely 4800, and weft cycles can be designed according to needs;
s4, designing a pattern, enabling the pattern to be continuous in four directions, enabling the width direction of the pattern to return to two positions, and designing colors to form a single-width gradual change effect;
s5, determining warp arrangement, wherein the warp yarns are divided into a first system and a second system as shown in figures 3 and 4, the first system is used for arranging warp yarns A, the second system is used for arranging the warp yarns A and the warp yarns B in a segmented mode, and one of the warp yarns A and the warp yarns B is dark, and the other is light;
s6, determining weft arrangement, wherein the weft comprises four systems of weft A, weft B, weft C and weft D, as shown in FIG. 5, the color of the weft A is the same as that of the warp B, the color of the weft C is the same as that of the warp A, the color of the weft B is a transition color between the weft A and the weft C, and the color of the weft D is a free color;
s7, designing a weave, wherein the width direction comprises an adjacent area E and an adjacent area F, the weaves in the area E and the area F are the same, as shown in the combination of the graph 6 and the graph 7, the area E and the area F both comprise a plurality of weaves, each weave is a weft-faced satin weave or a warp-faced satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns on the surface of a fabric, the area F is divided into an adjacent area F1 and an adjacent area F2, the area E and the area F are used for correspondingly arranging the warp yarns A of the first system, the area E and the area F1 are used for correspondingly arranging the warp yarns B of the second system, the area F2 is used for correspondingly arranging the warp yarns A of the second system, the weft yarns are interwoven with the warp yarns of the first system or the second system, the warp yarns of the second system have the same color as the warp yarns in the artistic color, the warp yarns of the second system are interwoven with the warp yarns in the warp yarn color of the first system, the artistic color of the same as the weft color of the weft yarn color of the artistic color of the warp yarns, the first system warp yarns are interwoven with the weft yarns in a weft surface satin weave;
s8, selecting materials of the warp yarns and the weft yarns for weaving, wherein the structures are the same, and the colors presented on the surface of the fabric in two weaving modes of interweaving the weft yarns and the warp yarns A and interweaving the weft yarns and the warp yarns B are changed to obtain the single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric.
As a preferred embodiment:
this embodiment contains multiple tissues, as shown in fig. 6, region E having tissue 1, tissue 2, tissue 3, and tissue 4, region F1 having tissue 1, tissue 2, and tissue 3, region F2 having tissue 1, tissue 2, tissue 3, and tissue 4; the warp yarns are provided with a first system and a second system, the weft yarns are provided with four systems, the weft yarns can only be interwoven with the warp yarns of the first system or only be interwoven with the warp yarns of the second system, when the warp yarns of the first system are on the surface, the back lining of the warp yarns of the second system is below the surface warp, and the surface is not seen, otherwise, when the warp yarns of the second system are on the surface, the back lining of the warp yarns of the first system is below the surface warp.
As shown in fig. 8, the tissue 1: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp-faced satin weave which is marked as a weave 1A, the warp yarn B and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp-faced satin weave which is marked as a weave 1B, the weave 1A and the weave 1B have different colors on the surface of the fabric, namely the weave 1, and the warp yarn interwoven with the weft yarn has different colors on the surface of the fabric;
as shown in fig. 9, tissue 2: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn B are interwoven into a weft-faced satin weave, which is marked as a weave 2, and the color of the weave 2 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged, namely the surface colors of the weave 2 in a region E, a region F1 and a region F2 are the same;
as shown in fig. 10, the tissue 3: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn A are interwoven into a weft-faced satin weave which is marked as a weave 3, and the color of the weave 3 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged, namely the surface color of the weave 3 in a region E, a region F1 and a region F2 is the same;
as shown in fig. 11, the tissue 4: the fabric surface color formed by interweaving the weft yarn D with the warp yarn A is different from that formed by interweaving the weft yarn D with the warp yarn A, and the weft surface satin weave formed by interweaving the warp yarn B with the weft yarn D is marked as a weave 4.
The present invention utilizes a color change in the aligned tissue without the tissue becoming altered, such as tissue 1; portions of tissue are color invariant across regions, such as tissue 2 and tissue 3; and the color of partial tissues is only slightly changed in a transregional way, such as the tissue 4, and finally, the unique effect of doubling the size of the fabric is realized.
In this embodiment, the width of the region F2 is 1/3 (the width of the region E + the width of the region F), that is, the warp yarns of the second system are arranged according to the 6210 warp yarns B and 3390 warp yarns a, and the width of the region F2 can be adjusted according to the design requirement.
Example two
This embodiment differs from embodiment one in that the weft yarns have only three systems, including weft yarn a, weft yarn B and weft yarn C. Tissue 4 is absent from the tissue in region E and region F.
The invention takes dark color and light color as the colors of warp yarns according to the change of the colors, the warp yarns are divided into two systems, the first system is dark color warp yarns, the second system is arranged by dark and light color warp yarns in a segmentation way, the weft yarns have at least three systems, wherein the two weft yarn systems are the same dark color and light color as the warp yarns, the other weft yarn system is a transition color between the dark color and the light color, the artistic color is the same as the colors of the warp yarns, the warp yarns of the second system are interwoven with the weft yarns by warp surface satins on the surface, the artistic color is the same as the colors of the weft yarns, and the warp yarns of the first system are interwoven with the weft yarns by weft surface satins on the surface. By utilizing the warp arrangement, the surface color of the fabric is changed under the condition of unchanging the texture, and the single-width gradual change effect is integrally formed, so that the size of the pattern of the fabric is doubled, the artistic feeling is enhanced, and the visual impact force is increased.
The warp and weft are common yarns or whole body light-emitting optical fibers, and the light-emitting fabric is made by adopting the whole body light-emitting optical fibers.
The above-mentioned embodiments are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention, but should not be construed as limiting the invention, and any variations and modifications based on the concept of the present invention should fall within the scope of the present invention, which is defined by the claims.
Claims (6)
1. A manufacturing method for weaving single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine is characterized by comprising the following steps:
s1, selecting a double-handle jacquard machine, and determining the number of main grain needles;
s2, determining the apparent warp and weft density of a finished fabric according to the thicknesses and the tissue types of the warps and the wefts;
s3, determining the size of the pattern, wherein the number of the warp cycles of the pattern is half of the number of the main pattern needles;
s4, designing a pattern, enabling the pattern to be continuous in four directions, enabling the width direction of the pattern to return to two positions, and designing colors to form a single-width gradual change effect;
s5, determining warp arrangement, wherein the warps are divided into a first system and a second system, the first system is used for arranging warps A, the second system is used for arranging warps A and warps B in a segmented mode, and one of the warps A and the warps B is dark in color and the other is light in color;
s6, determining weft arrangement, wherein the weft comprises a weft yarn A, a weft yarn B and a weft yarn C, the color of the weft yarn A is the same as that of the warp yarn B, the color of the weft yarn C is the same as that of the warp yarn A, and the color of the weft yarn B is a transition color between the weft yarn A and the weft yarn C;
s7, designing a tissue, wherein the width direction comprises an area E and an area F which are adjacent, the tissues in the area E and the area F are the same, the regions E and F respectively comprise a plurality of weaves, each weave is a weft-faced satin weave or a warp-faced satin weave formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns on the surface of the fabric, and the area F is divided into an area F1 and an area F2 which are adjacent, so that the area E and the area F correspondingly arrange the warp yarn A of the first system, the region E and the region F1 are arranged correspondingly to the warp yarn B of the second system, the region F2 is arranged correspondingly to the warp yarn A of the second system, the weft yarn is interwoven with the warp yarn of the first system or the second system, and the color of the jacquard weaving, the second system warp yarns are interwoven with the weft yarns on the surface in a warp surface satin weave, the weaving colors of the second system warp yarns are the same as those of the weft yarns, and the first system warp yarns are interwoven with the weft surface satin weave on the surface;
s8, selecting materials of the warp yarns and the weft yarns for weaving, wherein the structures are the same, and the colors presented on the surface of the fabric in two weaving modes of interweaving the weft yarns and the warp yarns A and interweaving the weft yarns and the warp yarns B are changed to obtain the single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein said weft yarns of step S6 further include weft yarn D of a free color.
3. The method for manufacturing single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine according to claim 2, characterized in that: the region E has tissue 1, tissue 2, tissue 3, and tissue 4, the region F1 has tissue 1, tissue 2, and tissue 3, the region F2 has tissue 1, tissue 2, tissue 3, and tissue 4;
tissue 1: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp-faced satin weave, which is marked as a weave 1A, and the warp yarn B and the weft yarn C are interwoven into a warp-faced satin weave, which is marked as a weave 1B, wherein the weave 1A and the weave 1B have different colors on the surface of the fabric;
tissue 2: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn B are interwoven into a weft surface satin weave, which is marked as a weave 2, and the color of the weave 2 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged;
tissue 3: the warp yarn A and the weft yarn A are interwoven into a weft surface satin weave, which is marked as a weave 3, and the color of the weave 3 on the surface of the fabric is unchanged;
tissue 4: the fabric surface color formed by interweaving the weft yarn D with the warp yarn A is different from that formed by interweaving the weft yarn D with the warp yarn A, and the weft surface satin weave formed by interweaving the warp yarn B with the weft yarn D is marked as a weave 4.
4. The method for manufacturing single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine according to claim 3, characterized in that: the number of the main lines is 9600.
5. The method for manufacturing single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard machine according to claim 4, characterized in that: the width of the region F2 is 1/3 (the width of the region E + the width of the region F), i.e., the warp yarns of the second system are arranged as 6210 warp yarns B, 3390 warp yarns a.
6. The manufacturing method of single-width gradually-changed jacquard fabric by using a double-handle jacquard loom according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: the warp and the weft are common yarns or whole luminous optical fibers.
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