Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a base cloth which is two-lower-upper-three-leaf twill velvet and a production process thereof. And the pile is fuller, and the line is more wild, has improved a grade than current three-leaf twill velvet, and is loved by people deeply.
In order to solve the technical problem, the invention aims to realize that:
the invention relates to a production process of twill velvet with two warps, two wefts and three warps, which is characterized in that ground warps, ground wefts and velvet warps are woven by a double-shed rapier loom and then subjected to velvet cutting, dyeing and after-finishing;
the ground warp comprises an upper layer ground warp and a lower layer ground warp, and the ground weft comprises an upper layer ground weft and a lower layer ground weft; the upper layer ground warp and the upper layer ground weft are interwoven in a warp-weft mode to form an upper layer base cloth, and the lower layer ground warp and the lower layer ground weft are interwoven in a warp-weft mode to form a lower layer base cloth;
the upper ground warp comprises an upper first ground warp, an upper second ground warp and an upper third ground warp, and the lower ground warp comprises a lower first ground warp, a lower second ground warp and a lower third ground warp; the upper layer of ground weft comprises an upper layer of first ground weft, an upper layer of second ground weft, an upper layer of third ground weft, an upper layer of fourth ground weft, an upper layer of fifth ground weft and an upper layer of sixth ground weft; the lower-layer ground weft comprises a lower-layer first ground weft, a lower-layer second ground weft, a lower-layer third ground weft, a lower-layer fourth ground weft, a lower-layer fifth ground weft and a lower-layer sixth ground weft; the pile warps comprise a first pile warp, a second pile warp, a third pile warp, a fourth pile warp, a fifth pile warp and a sixth pile warp;
the specific weaving process is as follows:
the first step is as follows: warping machine
Sequentially warping an upper layer first ground warp, a lower layer first ground warp, an upper layer second ground warp, a lower layer second ground warp, an upper layer third ground warp and a lower layer third ground warp on a loom beam;
arranging and warping the first pile warp, the fourth pile warp, the second pile warp, the fifth pile warp, the third pile warp and the sixth pile warp on a weaving shaft in sequence;
the second step is that: drafting reed
Drafting an upper layer first ground warp, a lower layer first ground warp, a first pile warp and a fourth pile warp in sequence and inserting the first ground warp, the first pile warp and the fourth pile warp into the first reed dent;
drafting the upper layer second ground warp, the lower layer second ground warp, the second pile warp and the fifth pile warp in sequence and inserting the two pile warps into the second reed dent;
drafting the upper layer third ground warp, the lower layer third ground warp, the third pile warp and the sixth pile warp in sequence and inserting the third ground warp, the lower layer third ground warp, the third pile warp and the sixth pile warp into a third reed dent;
drafting and reed inserting in sequence according to the rule;
the third step: heald lifting and beating-up weaving
A first shuttle: lifting the first ground warp at the upper layer upwards, lifting the second ground warp at the lower layer upwards and the third ground warp at the lower layer upwards, lifting the fifth pile warp and the sixth pile warp upwards, sinking the second pile warp and the third pile warp downwards, placing the first pile warp and the fourth pile warp in the middle, throwing the first ground weft at the upper layer and the first ground weft at the lower layer into the middle, and beating up and weaving;
a second shuttle: lifting the upper third ground warp upwards, lifting the lower first ground warp and the lower second ground warp upwards, lifting the first pile warp and the second pile warp upwards, sinking the fourth pile warp and the fifth pile warp downwards, placing the third pile warp and the sixth pile warp in the middle, throwing the upper second ground weft and the lower second ground weft into the middle, and beating up and weaving;
a third shuttle: lifting the second ground warp on the upper layer, lifting the first ground warp on the lower layer and the third ground warp on the lower layer, lifting the fourth pile warp and the sixth pile warp, sinking the first pile warp and the third pile warp downwards, placing the second pile warp and the fifth pile warp in the middle, throwing the third ground weft on the upper layer and the third ground weft on the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a fourth shuttle: lifting the first ground warp at the upper layer upwards, lifting the second ground warp at the lower layer upwards and the third ground warp at the lower layer upwards, lifting the second pile warp and the third pile warp upwards, sinking the fifth pile warp and the sixth pile warp downwards, placing the first pile warp and the fourth pile warp in the middle, throwing the fourth weft at the upper layer and the fourth weft at the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a fifth shuttle: lifting the third ground warp on the upper layer upwards, lifting the first ground warp on the lower layer upwards and the second ground warp on the lower layer upwards, lifting the fourth pile warp and the fifth pile warp upwards, sinking the first pile warp and the second pile warp downwards, placing the third pile warp and the sixth pile warp in the middle, throwing the fifth ground weft on the upper layer and the fifth ground weft on the lower layer, and beating up and weaving;
a sixth shuttle: lifting the second ground warp on the upper layer, lifting the first ground warp on the lower layer and the third ground warp on the lower layer, lifting the first pile warp and the third pile warp, sinking the fourth pile warp and the sixth pile warp downwards, placing the second pile warp and the fifth pile warp in the middle, throwing the sixth ground weft on the upper layer and the sixth ground weft on the lower layer, and beating up and weaving.
And finally, finishing the six-shuttle one-cycle, and entering the next round of circular weaving.
As a further explanation of the above scheme, the pile warp is bonded to the upper base cloth and the lower base cloth by means of W bonding. And the motion rule of the pile warp of each reed dent is just opposite to that of the ground warp of the reed dent, so that the pile is consolidated.
As a further explanation of the above scheme, the mass ratio of the velour base cloth interwoven by the ground warps and the ground wefts is 1: 4-9.
As a further explanation of the above scheme, the upper layer ground warp and the upper layer ground weft are interwoven according to a rule of two upper twill lines, and the lower layer ground warp and the lower layer ground weft are interwoven according to a rule of two upper twill lines and two lower twill lines.
As a further explanation of the above scheme, a double-shed rapier loom is used for weaving.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the base cloth is two-next-upper twill velour and the production process thereof, the prepared twill velour base cloth and the prepared velvet surface both generate twill lines which are required by the twill base cloth, the ground warp and the ground weft account for the whole velvet with smaller mass ratio, more abundant pile, more rough lines and the same effect generated by the lower velvet, therefore, the base cloth is two-next-upper three-page twill velour, has a grade higher than that of the existing three-page twill velour, and is deeply loved by people.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described with reference to the following figures and specific examples.
A base fabric of two-next-upper-three-page twill velvet will be described in detail with reference to fig. 1 to 4. The twill velvet involved comprises velvet base cloth TW and velvet R. The velvet base cloth TW is formed by interweaving ground warp and ground weft. The pile fibers R are composed of pile roots bonded to the velvet base cloth TW and pile fibers protruding from the velvet base cloth TW. The ground warp comprises a first ground warp T1, a second ground warp T2 and a third ground warp T3, and the ground weft comprises a first ground weft W1, a second ground weft W2, a third ground weft W3, a fourth ground weft W4, a fifth ground weft W5 and a sixth ground weft W6.
As can be seen from the interweaving rules of the yarns in the figures 2, 3 and 4, the base fabric adopts the weave structure on the next two. In fig. 2, two piles are provided between the second weft warp W2 and the third weft warp W3. In fig. 3, there are two knops between the fourth weft yarn W4 and the fifth weft yarn W5. In fig. 4, there are two piles between the sixth weft W6 and the first weft W1 of the next cycle. The three piles form twill.
The pile is formed by cutting pile warp yarns, and the pile warp yarns comprise a first pile warp yarn R1, a second pile warp yarn R2, a third pile warp yarn R3, a fourth pile warp yarn R4, a fifth pile warp yarn R5 and a sixth pile warp yarn R6; the ground warp and the pile warp are divided into three groups, wherein a first ground warp T1, a first pile warp R1 and a fourth pile warp R4 are taken as a first group, a second ground warp T2, a second pile warp R2 and a fifth pile warp R5 are taken as a second group, and a third ground warp T3, a third pile warp R3 and a sixth pile warp R6 are taken as a third group; the pile forms twill lines.
And the first pile warp yarn R1, the second pile warp yarn R2, the third pile warp yarn R3, the fourth pile warp yarn R4, the fifth pile warp yarn R5 and the sixth pile warp yarn R6 respectively carry out consolidation weaving corresponding to the first weft yarn W1, the second weft yarn W2, the third weft yarn W3, the fourth weft yarn W4, the fifth weft yarn W5 and the sixth weft yarn W6.
A pile formed by cutting pile yarns of the third pile warp R3 and the sixth pile warp R6 is arranged between the sixth weft yarn W6 of the last circulating unit of the third group and the first weft yarn W1 of the present circulating unit; piles formed by cutting the second pile warp R2 and the fifth pile warp R5 are arranged between the first weft yarn W1 and the second weft yarn W2 in the second group; a pile formed by cutting pile yarns of the first pile warp R1 and the fourth pile warp R4 is arranged between the second weft yarn W2 and the third weft yarn W3 of the first group; continuing, a pile formed by cutting pile yarns of the third pile warp R3 and the sixth pile warp R6 is arranged between the third weft yarn W3 and the fourth weft yarn W4 of the third group; a pile formed by cutting the second pile warp R2 and the fifth pile warp R5 is arranged between the second group of the fourth weft yarns W4 and the fifth weft yarns W5; a pile formed by cutting pile yarns of the first pile warp R1 and the fourth pile warp R4 is arranged between the first group of fifth weft yarns W5 and the sixth weft yarns W6; the pile is formed into twill lines.
And with reference to fig. 5, 6 and 7, the base cloth is made of twill velvet with two, next, upper and three pages, which is woven by a double-shed rapier loom, and then cut, dyed and finished.
When weaving, the ground warp comprises an upper layer ground warp and a lower layer ground warp, and the ground weft comprises an upper layer ground weft and a lower layer ground weft. The upper layer ground warp and the upper layer ground weft are interwoven through warps and wefts to form an upper layer base cloth, and the lower layer ground warp and the lower layer ground weft are interwoven through warps and wefts to form a lower layer base cloth.
The pile warp is weaved by three-weft W consolidation on the upper layer base cloth, then returned to the lower layer base cloth for three-weft W consolidation weaving, and then returned to the upper layer base cloth and then returned to the lower layer base cloth for the same weaving.
And cutting and splitting the velvet connected with the upper-layer base cloth and the lower-layer base cloth by adopting a velvet cutting knife between the upper-layer base cloth and the lower-layer base cloth to form upper-layer silk-based grey cloth and lower-layer silk-based grey cloth.
And then after finishing, dyeing, carding, brushing and inspecting and warehousing, the base fabric of the invention is finally formed into the twill velvet with two upper twill velvet.
Further, in the production process of the base cloth being two-down-three-up twill velvet, the upper ground warp includes an upper first ground warp tonneau 1, an upper second ground warp tonneau 2 and an upper third ground warp tonneau 3, and the lower ground warp includes a lower first ground warp tonneau 1, a lower second ground warp tonneau 2 and a lower third ground warp tonneau 3.
The upper layer of ground weft comprises an upper layer of first ground weft Wupper 1, an upper layer of second ground weft Wupper 2, an upper layer of third ground weft Wupper 3, an upper layer of fourth ground weft Wupper 4, an upper layer of fifth ground weft Wupper 5 and an upper layer of sixth ground weft Wupper 6; the lower-layer ground weft comprises a lower-layer first ground weft W lower 1, a lower-layer second ground weft W lower 2, a lower-layer third ground weft W lower 3, a lower-layer fourth ground weft W lower 4, a lower-layer fifth ground weft W lower 5 and a lower-layer sixth ground weft W lower 6.
The pile warps comprise a first pile warp R1, a second pile warp R2, a third pile warp R3, a fourth pile warp R4, a fifth pile warp 5 and a sixth pile warp R6.
Weaving two next upper three-page twill velvet from the ground warp, the ground weft and the pile warp, wherein the specific process is as follows:
the first step is as follows: warping machine
Sequentially warping an upper layer first ground warp T upper 1, a lower layer first ground warp T lower 1, an upper layer second ground warp T upper 2, a lower layer second ground warp T lower 2, an upper layer third ground warp T upper 3 and a lower layer third ground warp T lower 3 on a loom beam;
arranging and warping a first pile warp R1, a fourth pile warp R4, a second pile warp R2, a fifth pile warp R5, a third pile warp R3 and a sixth pile warp R6 on a weaving shaft in sequence;
the second step is that: drafting reed
Drafting an upper layer first ground warp T upper 1, a lower layer first ground warp T lower 1, a first pile warp R1 and a fourth pile warp R4 in sequence and inserting the first pile warps into the first reed dent;
drafting an upper layer second ground warp Tupper 2, a lower layer second ground warp Tlower 2, a second pile warp R2 and a fifth pile warp R5 in sequence and inserting the two into the second reed dent;
drafting an upper layer third ground warp Tupper 3, a lower layer third ground warp Tlower 3, a third pile warp R3 and a sixth pile warp R6 in sequence and inserting the third ground warp into a third reed dent;
drafting and reed inserting in sequence according to the rule;
the third step: heald lifting and beating-up weaving
Weaving by adopting a double-shed rapier loom, wherein the specific shedding beating-up weaving rule is shown in the following table:
a first shuttle: lifting the upper first ground warp T upper 1, lifting the lower second ground warp T lower 2 and the lower third ground warp T lower 3, lifting the fifth pile warp R5 and the sixth pile warp R6, lowering the second pile warp R2 and the third pile warp R3, placing the first pile warp R1 and the fourth pile warp R4 in the middle, throwing the upper first ground weft W upper 1 and the lower first ground weft W lower 1 to beat-up and weave.
A second shuttle: lifting the upper third ground warp T upper 3, lifting the lower first ground warp T lower 1 and the lower second ground warp T lower 2, lifting the first pile warp R1 and the second pile warp R2, lowering the fourth pile warp R4 and the fifth pile warp R5, placing the third pile warp R3 and the sixth pile warp R6 in the middle, throwing the upper second ground weft W upper 2 and the lower second ground weft W lower 2 into the middle, and beating up and weaving.
A third shuttle: lifting the upper second ground warp T upper 2, lifting the lower first ground warp T lower 1 and the lower third ground warp T lower 3, lifting the fourth pile warp R4 and the sixth pile warp R6, sinking the first pile warp R1 and the third pile warp R3, putting the second pile warp R2 and the fifth pile warp R5 in the middle, throwing the upper third ground weft W upper 3 and the lower third ground weft W lower 3 into the upper layer, and beating up and weaving.
A fourth shuttle: lifting the upper first ground warp T upper 1, lifting the lower second ground warp T lower 2 and the lower third ground warp T lower 3, lifting the second pile warp R2 and the third pile warp R3, sinking the fifth pile warp R5 and the sixth pile warp R6, putting the first pile warp R1 and the fourth pile warp R4 in the middle, throwing the upper fourth weft W upper 4 and the lower fourth weft W lower 4 to beat-up and weave.
A fifth shuttle: lifting the upper third ground warp T upper 3, lifting the lower first ground warp T lower 1 and the lower second ground warp T lower 2, lifting the fourth pile warp R4 and the fifth pile warp R5, sinking the first pile warp R1 and the second pile warp R2, putting the third pile warp R3 and the sixth pile warp R6 in the middle, throwing the upper fifth ground weft W upper 5 and the lower fifth ground weft W lower 5 to beat-up and weave.
A sixth shuttle: lifting the upper second ground warp T upper 2, lifting the lower first ground warp T lower 1 and the lower third ground warp T lower 3, lifting the first pile warp R1 and the third pile warp R3, lowering the fourth pile warp R4 and the sixth pile warp R6, placing the second pile warp R2 and the fifth pile warp R5 in the middle, throwing the upper sixth ground weft W upper 6 and the lower sixth ground weft W lower 6 to beat-up and weave.
And finishing the weaving of the six-shuttle one-cycle, and entering the next cycle.
The fourth step: after-finishing of cut pile
And cutting and splitting the pile warp yarns connecting the upper base cloth and the lower base cloth by using a pile cutting knife between the upper base cloth and the lower base cloth to form upper-layer velvet grey cloth and lower-layer velvet grey cloth.
Finally, after finishing such as dyeing, combing, shearing and the like, the base cloth of the invention is twill velvet with two lower parts and three upper parts.
The base cloth prepared by the production process is composed of two, next, upper and three-page twill velvet, wherein one unit comprises six ground warps on the upper and lower layers, the velvet warps comprise six ground warps, and the weight ratio of the velvet base cloth formed by interweaving the ground warps and the ground wefts to the velvet is 1: 4-9, and further may be 1: 9.
for example, in the double-layer twill velour grey fabric prepared in the above steps, the upper first ground warp, the upper second ground warp, the upper third ground warp, the upper first weft, the upper second weft, the upper third weft, the upper fifth weft and the upper sixth weft form the upper second lower twill velour base fabric. Among pile of the pile warp yarn after the pile cutting, pile generated between the second ground weft and the third ground weft in the first reed dent, pile generated between the fourth ground weft and the fifth ground weft in the second reed dent, and pile generated between the sixth ground weft in the third reed dent and the first ground weft of the next cycle form the effect of twill. Similarly, pile yarns are generated between the fifth ground weft yarn and the sixth ground weft yarn in the first reed dent, the pile yarns are generated between the first ground weft yarn and the second ground weft yarn in the next cycle in the second reed dent, and the pile yarns are generated between the third ground weft yarn and the fourth ground weft yarn in the next cycle in the third reed dent.
The foregoing detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the invention has been presented. It should be understood that numerous modifications and variations could be devised by those skilled in the art in light of the present teachings without departing from the inventive concepts. Therefore, the technical solutions available to those skilled in the art through logic analysis, reasoning and limited experiments based on the prior art according to the concept of the present invention should be within the scope of protection defined by the claims.