JP4257545B2 - Fabric and manufacturing method for clothing with back pile - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a fabric for clothing with a back pile whose back surface is covered with a pile.
More specifically, the present invention relates to a fabric for clothing with a back pile in which pile yarn is arranged as a kind of warp and a pile is formed on the back surface.

The warp pile fabric in which some warps (13) form the pile 14 is used for carpets and cold clothing.
Among the warp pile fabrics, warp pile fabrics that form one pile for each one of the weft yarns 12a, 12b, 12c, 12d, 12e, 12fd ... It is called Ichikoshi pile fabric.
A warp pile fabric in which one pile is formed for every two weft yarns is called a Nikokoshi pile fabric.
A warp pile fabric (FIG. 1) in which one pile is formed for every three weft yarns is called a Mitsukoshi pile fabric.
A warp pile fabric in which one pile is formed for every four weft yarns is called a Yotsukoshi pile fabric.
Usually, the warp pile fabric used for carpets and clothing is any one of Ichikoshi pile fabric, Futoshi pile fabric, Mitsukoshi pile fabric, and 4-koshi pile fabric.
As shown in the following Patent Documents 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, the warp pile fabric 20 is usually a warp pile loom called a double pile loom. Woven up and down.

Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-129974 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-29741) Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-129975 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-29742) Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-129978 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-29743) Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-129799 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-35577) Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-129980 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-35578) Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-129981 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-35579) Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-129982 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-29744) Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 56-129993 (Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-29745)

In general, the warp pile loom is required to form an opening according to at least two pairs of ground warp yarns 11a and 11b required to form the base fabric 20 for locking the pile 14. It requires at least four rib frames, which are a total of two frames and two rib frames required to form an opening by a set of two pile yarns.
In the double pile loom that weaves the two base fabrics 20 and 20 in the upper and lower directions, a total of at least six reed frames are required.

In certain types of warp pile fabric, tightening that continues straight in the weaving direction without bending to ensure the shape stability of the base fabric by suppressing expansion and contraction in the weaving direction (length direction of warp). The warp 21c is woven into the base fabric 20.
In another type of warp pile fabric, a covering warp 21d is woven into the base fabric 20 in order to prevent a part 16 of the pile yarn from being exposed to the back surface of the base fabric 20 as a so-called dead pile (FIG. 1). ).

  For this reason, in the double pile loom, the two warp frames for weaving the warp yarns 21c and 21c into the upper and lower two base fabrics 20 and 20, and the covering warp yarn 21d and the covering warp yarns in the two upper and lower base fabrics 20 and 20. A total of at least 10 hook frames are required, including two hook frames for weaving 21d.

When drawing a relatively simple pattern such as a lattice or rhombus on the pile surface in a double pile loom, guide the adjacent pile yarns to different rib frames and set them selectively on the upper and lower sides of the opening. Therefore, four or more pile yarn hook frames are required.
For this reason, the double pile loom is provided with at least 16 reed frames.
When drawing a complicated pattern with a complicated outline on the pile surface, the pile yarn is individually driven up and down by the jacquard, so that the pile yarn hook frame is unnecessary.

Conventional warp pile fabrics as carpets and clothing fabrics are used with the non-pile side facing away from the human eye.
Therefore, no consideration is required to enhance the aesthetics of the non-pile surface.
On the non-pile surface of a conventional warp pile fabric, every time it passes over one ground weft yarn 12c (12f), it divides under one or several ground weft yarns 12a and 12b (12d and 12e) A pair of ground warp yarns 11a and 11b is exposed, or a tightening warp yarn 11c and a covering warp yarn 11d that are locked to a ground weft yarn 12c (12f) that exceeds the ground warp yarn are exposed.
Therefore, the tactile sensation and texture of the non-pile surface of the conventional warp pile fabric is not preferable (not preferable).
From such a conventional warp pile fabric, the idea of using the non-pile surface facing the human eye is not generated.

Therefore, the present invention eliminates the need for an increase in the number of fence frames, and does not require any special modification such as the addition of a patterning device. An object of the present invention is to obtain a garment for clothing with a back pile that can be used as a garment for clothing in a face-to-face contact.
Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to weave a warp pile fabric having a good (preferred) appearance, touch and texture of a non-pile surface.

The fabric for clothing with a back pile according to the present invention comprises: (a) a warp yarn 11 (11a, 11b, 11c, 11d, 11e, 11f, 11g, 11h) one weft 12 (12a, 12b, 12c, 12d, 12e)・ 4 flies, 5 flies, 6 flies over 3-4 wefts 12b, 12c, 12d (12e, 12f, 12g, 12h, 12a) every time they dive under 12f, 12g, 12h) A non-pile surface is formed depending on the woven structure of any of 7 sheets, 8 sheets, 4 sheets, 5 sheets, 6 sheets, 7 sheets, and 8 sheets. ) Two to seven warp yarns 11, 11, 11... (11 a, 11 b, 11 c, 11 d, 11 e, 11 f, 11 g, 11 h) pile yarn 13 (13 a, 13 b) is arranged at a ratio of 1 (C) Each pile yarn 13 (13a · 1 b) 6 to 12 wefts 12, 12, 12, ... (12a, 12b, 12c, 12d, 12e, 12f, 12g, 12h) at a rate of 1 on the pile surface facing the non-pile surface The protruding first pile 14 is formed, and (d) the piles (14a, 14b) of the adjacent pile yarns (13a, 13b) are different wefts (12b, 12c, 12d: 12f, 12g, 12h) (E) Relational expression in which the fineness (unit: dtex) of the warp (11) is Dr, and the warp density (unit: book / 25.4 mm) is Nr; Kr = Nr × (0.9 XDr) The first feature is that the cover factor Kr by the warp 11 calculated according to ^1/2 is set to 800 or more.

  According to the second feature of the garment for clothing with back pile according to the present invention, in addition to the first feature, the woven structure is partially different, and the pattern on the non-pile surface depends on the partial difference of the woven structure. It is in the point where the pattern is drawn.

  The third feature of the fabric for clothing with back pile according to the present invention is that the fineness (Dp) of the pile yarn 13 is 1 of the fineness (Dr) of the warp yarn 11 in addition to any of the first and second features. .2 or less (Dp ≦ 1.2Dr).

The manufacturing method of the fabric for clothing with a back pile according to the present invention is as follows. (F) Two fabric fabrics 10U and 10D for back pile are faced to each other in a double pile loom and the pile yarn 13 is used. The pile yarn 13 to be connected is cut with a knife 15 between two back-pile clothing fabrics 10U and 10D, and the two back-pile clothing fabrics. In the manufacturing method of the garment for clothing with back pile separating 10U and 10D, (g) Relationship that the fineness (unit: dtex) of the warp 11 is Dr and the warp density (unit: 25.4 mm) is Nr The cover factor Kr by the warp 11 calculated according to the formula: Kr = Nr × (0.9 × Dr) ^1/2 is set to 800 or more, and (h) 2 to 8 warps 11, 11, 11 ......... (11a 11b, 11c, 11d, 11e, 11f, 11g, 11h), and pile yarns 13 (13a, 13b) are arranged at a ratio of (1), and piles 14a, 14b constituting adjacent pile yarns 13a, 13b are arranged. (J) 6 to 12 weft yarns 12, 12, 12, 12 c, 12 d, 12 f (12 f, 12 g, 12 h), 12... (12a, 12b, 12c, 12d, 12e, 12f, 12g, 12h), and is formed according to each pile yarn 13 (13a, 13b). (K) Warp 11 (11a · 11b · 11c · 11d · 11e · 11f · 11g · 11h) under one weft 12 (12a · 12b · 12c · 12d · 12e · 12f · 12g · 12h) 3-12 wefts 12, 12, 12, ... (12b, 12c, 12d, 12e, 12f, 12g, 12h, 12a) that go over the top of the 4th, 5th, 6th 7 sheets Aya, 8 sheets Aya, 4 sheets torn, 5 sheets, 6 sheets, 7 sheets, 8 sheets, and 8 sheets .

On the surface of a warp weaving fabric composed of a weaving structure that continuously passes over a plurality of wefts every time the warp dives under one weft, the diving weft 12 is on the weaving structure diagram. Then, it will be revealed as the organization point 17.
However, in practice, the submerged weft 12 is covered with the adjacent warp and is not exposed on the surface of the warp woven fabric.
For this reason, the non-pile surface is in a state in which the warp yarns are arranged in parallel, and gives a smooth and soft feel.

  As is obvious from the fact that the 4 tears are a kind of 4 twills, each warp goes over one weft over one third. The non-pile surface of a warp woven fabric such as a 4 sheet twill, or a 1/4/5 sheet twill, or a 1/5/6 sheet twill is the same as the non-pile surface of a warp woven fabric.

The pile pile dead pile 16 that surrounds the weft and exposes to the non-pile surface is generated at a rate of two for each first pile.
The dead pile 16 is exposed on the non-pile surface as two texture points (16a and 16b) sandwiching one weft in the same manner as the warp texture point of the plain weave structure on the woven structure diagram. become.
However, in practice, the dead pile 16 is not exposed on the non-pile surface constituted by the warp and warp satin weave structure, like the weft yarn structure point 17.
For this reason, the non-pile surface of the fabric 10 for clothing with a back pile which concerns on this invention gives the touch which is smooth and the touch which is smooth like the surface of a trans-verbal fabric.
Therefore, the garment for clothing 10 with the back pile according to the present invention can have the non-pile surface facing outward, that is, the use surface where the non-pile surface can be touched by human eyes.

In particular, according to the present invention, the pile yarn 13 protrudes in the weaving direction and directly touches the pile surface on the front and back of the non-pile surface at a ratio of 1 to 6 to 12 weft yarns 12. First piles 14, 14, 14,.
Further, the piles 14a and 14b constituting the adjacent pile yarns 13a and 13b are also locked to different wefts and project in the weft width direction, so that they do not stick to each other.
Accordingly, the dead piles 16 and 16 of the adjacent piles 14a and 14b are also generated in the weaving direction and the weaving width direction so as not to come into close contact with each other.
Since the pile yarn 13 is arranged at a ratio of one to every two to eight warps, the dead pile 16 is also covered by the adjacent warps 11 and 11 in the same manner as the weft yarns 17. It will be.
Therefore, the dead pile 16 is not exposed to the non-pile surface.

In addition, every time warp dives under one weft, it goes over 3 or more wefts, 4 twills, 5 twills, 6 twills, 7 twills, or 8 If the non-pile surface is composed of Aya, 4 tears, 5 shunts, 6 shunts, 7 shrubs, or 8 shrubs, each pile At least one of the left and right warp yarns among a pair of two dead piles 16a and 16b in which adjacent warp yarns 11 and 11 are generated for each first pile with the yarn interposed therebetween is the dead piles 16a and 16b. Similarly, it floats on the non-pile surface over the weft 12.
For this reason, as shown in FIG. 4, the dead piles 16a and 16b are guided by the weft yarn 12 beyond the dead pile 16a and 16b so as to be pushed under the warp yarn 11 interposed on at least one of the left and right sides. Easy to do.
Thus, each dead pile 16 is not exposed to the non-pile surface, as is the weft 12.

FIG. 4 is drawn in order to show the pile surface that faces the non-pile surface.
Therefore, the vertical relationship between the warp and the weft described in this specification and the vertical relationship between the warp and the weft illustrated in FIG. 4 are reversed.
Therefore, in this specification, the explanation that “every warp goes under three or more wefts under one weft” means that “the warp is over one weft” in FIG. Every time you cross over, you ’ll go under three or more wefts. ”
The vertical relationship between the warp and the weft is the same in the case where the fabric 10D for clothing with a lower back pile illustrated in FIGS. 2 and 3 is described.

Calculated according to a relational expression where warp fineness (unit: dtex) is Dr and warp density (unit: book / 25.4 mm) is Nr; Kr = Nr × (0.9 × Dr) ^1/2 In the woven fabric in which the cover factor Kr by the warp is set to 800 or more, there is no gap that allows the back side to be seen through between the adjacent warps.
Therefore, a part of the pile yarn 13 connecting the pair of two dead piles 16a and the dead pile 16a is not exposed to the non-pile surface through the gap between the adjacent warp yarns.

As described above, according to the present invention, the weft yarn 12 and the pile yarn 13 are not exposed to the non-pile surface, and the non-pile surface becomes a smooth surface in which the warps 11 are arranged in parallel.
Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric for clothing with a back pile that can be used with its non-pile surface facing outwardly in contact with human eyes and skin.

And in the textile fabric 10 with the back pile which concerns on this invention, the pile yarn 13 is arrange | positioned in the ratio of 1 per 2-8 warps, and forms the pile 14 in the ratio of 6-12 wefts. is doing.
Accordingly, the pile density on the pile surface is rough.
Each pile 14 is easily pushed down.
Therefore, the pile layer does not make it difficult to sew the sewing machine in the sewing process in which the fabric 10 for clothing with a back pile is made into clothing.

Moreover, in the textile 10 for clothing with a back pile which concerns on this invention, the back side in the case of using as clothing is covered with the pile layer.
Therefore, the garment for clothing 10 with a back pile according to the present invention can be tailored to clothing without using a lining.
Moreover, since the pile density is low, the fabric 10 for clothing with a back pile according to the present invention is rich in breathability and suitable for clothing worn throughout the seasons.

A conventional warp pile fabric, that is, a conventional warp pile fabric 20 woven with straight warp yarns 21c and covering warp yarns 21d without being bent in the weaving direction, when the tension acts in the weaving direction, warp yarn 21c.・ 21d immediately becomes nervous.
Accordingly, the conventional warp pile fabric 20 is difficult to expand and contract and is excellent in shape stability.
On the other hand, the conventional warp pile fabric 20 lacks flexibility because it is difficult to expand and contract.
Therefore, the conventional warp pile fabric 20 is not suitable for clothing.

In that respect, the fabric 10 for clothing with a back pile according to the present invention is bent before and after the tissue point 17 where all the warp yarns 11 are entangled with one weft yarn 12 that lies below.
Therefore, the fabric 10 for clothing with a back pile according to the present invention has a slight change even when there is a slight expansion / contraction change when changing from the bent state to the linear state when a tension acts on the warp. Expansion and contraction creates a soft and flexible texture.
Also in this respect, the fabric 10 for clothing with a back pile according to the present invention is suitable for clothing.

The number of reed frames required for weaving 8 twill and 8 satin fabrics is 8.
The number of reed frames required for simultaneously weaving two woven fabrics composed of eight twills or eight satin weaves on top and bottom simultaneously is sixteen.
Therefore, in a double pile loom, when weaving two woven fabrics 10U and 10D with back pile at the same time, two fabrics composed of 8 twill or 8 satin fabrics are used. A total of 18 cocoon frames are required by adding two cocoon frames for pile yarn to 16 cocoon frames for warp necessary for weaving.

However, as described above, the conventional double pile loom is usually provided with about 18 sheet frames.
Therefore, a conventional double pile loom can be used without any special modification of the conventional double pile loom by diverting a part of the reed frame provided as a pile yarn reed frame to a warp reed frame. By using the loom as it is, the fabric for clothing with a back pile according to the present invention can be woven.
Therefore, the present invention is easy to implement and practical.

In the practice of the present invention, the cover factor Kr of the warp 11 is set to 1000 to 2000, preferably 1100 to 1900.
In the present invention, the reason why the fineness Dp of the pile yarn 13 is 1.2 times or less (Dp ≦ 1.2Dr) of the fineness Dr of the warp yarn 11 is that the dead pile 16 leads to the weft yarn 12 that the pile yarn exceeds. This is because it moves under the left and right warps 11 so as to be covered and easily covered under the left and right warps 11.
The fineness Dp of the pile yarn 13 is preferably 1.2 times or less (Dp ≦ 1.2Df) of the fineness Df of the weft yarn 12.

On the non-pile side, any of 4 Aya, 5 Aya, 6 Aya, 7 Aya, 8 Aya, 4 Tear Ako, 5 Ako, 6 Ako, 7 Ako, and 8 Ako The part which becomes more than the kind of woven structure may be mixed.
The woven structure of the non-pile surface may be any one of 4 sheets twill, 5 sheets twill, 4 tears, and 5 sheets satin.
In that case, depending on the pile yarn 13a (11b), the pile surface on the front and back of the non-pile surface is in a ratio of 1 to 8 to 10 weft yarns 12a, 12b, 12c, 12d, 12e, 12f, 12g and 12h. The protruding first pile 14 may be formed.

Non-pile surface woven fabrics with back piles composed of any one of 4 woven fabrics, 5 woven fabrics, 4 torn lacquered fabrics and 5 woven fabrics are traditionally provided with 12 cocoon frames It can be woven by using a double pile loom.
On the non-pile surface, the number of weft yarns 12 where the warp yarn 11 exceeds the top is small, and the number is generally 3 to 4.
For this reason, the non-pile surface is excellent in wear resistance.

2 and 3 illustrate a garment for clothing with a back pile in the weaving process.
The non-pile surface of the upper cloth 10U is constituted by a four-sheet twill weave structure shown in FIG.
The warp yarns are repeatedly arranged with 8 warp yarns 11Ua, 11Ub, 11Uc, 11Ud, 11Ue, 11Uf, 11Ug, and 11Uh as unit warps.
The pile yarn 13a (13b) is arranged for every two warp yarns.
The eight wefts 12Ua, 12Ub, 12Uc, 12Ud, 12Ue, 12Uf, 12Ug, and 12Uh are repeatedly woven as unit wefts.

The warp yarn 11Ua dives under one weft yarn 12Ua, passes over the following three weft yarns 12Ub, 12Uc, and 12Ud, and under the one weft yarn 12Ue that follows, followed by three weft yarns 12Uf. Over 12Ug · 12Uh.
The warp yarn 11Ub dives under one weft yarn 12Uc, passes over the following three weft yarns 12Ud, 12Ue and 12Uf, dives under one weft yarn 12Ug which follows it, and then follows the three weft yarns 12Uh Over 12Ua and 12Ub.
The warp yarn 11Uc dives under one weft yarn 12Ub, passes over the following three weft yarns 12Uc, 12Ud, and 12Ue, then dives under one weft yarn 12Uf, followed by three weft yarns 12Ug. It is over 12Uh · 12Ua.
The warp 11Ud dives under one weft 12Ud, passes over the following three wefts 12Ue, 12Uf, and 12Ug, then dives under one weft 12Uh, and then the following three wefts 12Ua Over 12Ub and 12Uc.
The warp 11Ue, like the warp 11Ub, dives under one weft 12Uc, passes over the following three wefts 12Ud, 12Ue, and 12Uf, and dives under one weft 12Ug that follows it. It crosses over the three wefts 12Uh, 12Ua, and 12Ub.
Similar to the warp 11Uc, the warp 11Uf goes under one weft 12Ub, passes over the next three wefts 12Uc, 12Ud, and 12Ue, then goes under the next one weft 12Uf and follows it. It crosses over the three wefts 12Ug, 12Uh, and 12Ua.
Similar to the warp 11Ua, the warp 11Ug goes under one weft 12Ua, passes over the next three wefts 12Ub, 12Uc, and 12Ud, and then goes under the next one weft 12Ue. It exceeds the top of the three wefts 12Uf, 12Ug, and 12Uh.
The warp yarn 11Uh, like the warp yarn 11Ud, dives under one weft yarn 12Ud, passes over the following three weft yarns 12Ue, 12Uf, and 12Ug, and then dives under one weft yarn 12Uh, which follows it. It crosses over the three wefts 12Ua, 12Ub, and 12Uc.
FIG. 5C shows a woven structure of the non-pile surface of the upper fabric 10U. The warps 11Ud and 11Uh are cocoons (I), the warps 11Ua and 11Ug are cocoons (b), and the warps 11Uc and 11Uf are cocoons (ni). ), The warps 11Ub and 11Ue are respectively driven up and down to form the opening.

Similar to the non-pile surface of the upper fabric 10U, the non-pile surface of the lower fabric 10D is constituted by a four-sheet twill structure.
Eight warps 11Da, 11Db, 11Dc, 11Dd, 11De, 11Df, 11Dg, and 11Dh are repeatedly arranged as unit warps.
The pile yarn 13a (13b) is arranged for every two warp yarns.
The wefts are repeatedly woven with eight wefts 12Da, 12Db, 12Dc, 12Dd, 12De, 12Df, 12Dg, and 12Dh as unit wefts.

The warp yarn 11Ua dives under one weft yarn 12Da, passes over the following three weft yarns 12Db, 12Dc and 12Dd, dives under one weft yarn 12De following it, and then follows the three weft yarns 12Df. Over 12Dg and 12Dh.
The warp yarn 11Db dives under one weft yarn 12Dc, passes over the following three weft yarns 12Dd, 12De, and 12Df, and under the one weft yarn 12Dg that follows, followed by the three weft yarns 12Dh. It is above 12Da and 12Db.
The warp yarn 11Dc dives under one weft yarn 12Db, passes over the following three weft yarns 12Dc, 12Dd, and 12De, dives under one weft yarn 12Df that follows, and then follows the three weft yarns 12Dg. It is over 12Dh · 12Da.
The warp yarn 11Dd dives under one weft yarn 12Dd, passes over the following three weft yarns 12De, 12Df, 12Dg, dives under one weft yarn 12Dh that follows it, and then follows the three weft yarns 12Da. It is above 12Db and 12Dc.
As with the warp 11Db, the warp 11De dives under one weft 12Dc, passes over the following three wefts 12Dd, 12De, and 12Df, and under the next one weft 12Dg. It crosses over the three wefts 12Dh, 12Da, and 12Db.
Similar to the warp 11Dc, the warp 11Df dives under one weft 12Db, passes over the following three wefts 12Dc, 12Dd, and 12De, and dives under the next one weft 12Df. It exceeds the top of the three wefts 12Dg, 12Dh, and 12Da.
Similar to the warp 11Da, the warp 11Dg goes under one weft 12Da, passes over the next three wefts 12Db, 12Dc, and 12Dd, and goes under the next one weft 12De. It exceeds the top of the three wefts 12Df, 12Dg, and 12Dh.
The warp 11Dh, like the warp 11Dd, dives under one weft 12Dd, passes over the following three wefts 12De, 12Df, and 12Dg, then dives under the next one weft 12Dh, and the subsequent It crosses over the three wefts 12Da, 12Db, and 12Dc.
As described above, in this specification, the upper and lower relations of the warp and the weft are explained with the non-pile surface as the upper side and the pile surface as the lower side. Therefore, FIG. 2 and FIG. In the garment 10D with a lower back pile shown in FIG. 3, the description “the warp yarn goes over three or more wefts every time the warp dives under one weft” is “one warp” Reference is made to the lower back-pile garment for clothing 10D shown in FIGS. 2 and 3 as meaning "being dive under three or more wefts every time it exceeds the weft."

FIG. 5D is a woven structure of the pile surface of the lower cloth 10D.
The warps 11Dd and 11Dh are driven up and down by the heel to form an opening.
The warps 11Da and 11Dg are driven up and down by a heel to form an opening.
The warps 11Dc and 11Df are driven up and down by a heel to form an opening.
The warps 11Db and 11De are driven up and down by a heel to form an opening.
The woven structure of the non-pile surface of the lower cloth 10D is in a form in which the vertical relationship between the warp and the weft entangled at each structure point of the woven structure of the pile surface of the lower cloth 10D shown in FIG.

  The pile yarn is between the warps 11Ub and 11Uc of the upper fabric 10U, between the warps 11Db and 11Dc of the lower fabric 10D, between the warps 11Ud and 11Ue of the upper fabric 10U, and between the warps 11Dd and 11De of the lower fabric 10D, One each between the warps 11Uf and 11Ug of the upper fabric 10U, between the warps 11Df and 11Dg of the lower fabric 10D, between the warps 11Uh and 11Ua of the upper fabric 10U, and between the warps 11Dh and 11Da of the lower fabric 10D. Has been placed.

Pile yarn disposed between the warp yarns 11Ub-11Uc of the upper fabric and the warp yarns 11Db-11Dc of the lower fabric 10D, and between the warp yarns 11Uf-11Ug of the upper fabric 10U and the warp yarns 11Df-11Dg of the lower fabric 10D. 13a and 13a are submerged under the five wefts 12Ua, 12Ub, 12Uc, 12Ud, and 12Ue of the upper cloth 10U in a vertical relationship with the non-pile surface of the upper cloth 10U as the upper side, and the next one Of the upper fabric 10U, which appears on the non-pile surface of the upper fabric 10U, passes below the one weft 12Ug, and passes over the subsequent one weft 12Uh. In this case, it is repeated repeatedly under 5 wefts 12Ua, 12Ub, 12Uc, 12Ud, and 12Ue.
When the pile yarns 13a and 13a continue to dive under the five wefts 12Ua, 12Ub, 12Uc, 12Ud, and 12Ue, the pile yarns 13a and 13a dive under one weft 12Ub of the lower fabric 10D, and then 1 of the lower fabric 10D. It appears on the pile surface of the lower cloth 10U over the weft 12Dc of the book.
Then, the pile yarns 13a and 13a are revealed on the pile surface of the lower cloth 10U under the one weft 12Ud that follows the pile yarns 13a and 13a.
Thereafter, the pile yarns 13a and 13a are manifested on the non-pile surface of the upper fabric 10U over the weft yarn 12Uf.
Upper cloth 10U and lower cloth 10D are connected via pile yarns 13a and 13a.

Pile yarn disposed between the warp yarns 11Ud-11Ue of the upper fabric and the warp yarns 11Dd-11De of the lower fabric 10D, and between the warp yarns 11Uh-11Ua of the upper fabric 10U and the warp yarns 11Dh-11Da of the lower fabric 10D. 13b and 13b are submerged under the five wefts 12Ue, 12Uf, 12Ug, 12Uh, and 12Ua of the upper cloth 10U in a vertical relationship with the non-pile surface of the upper cloth 10U on the upper side, and the next one The weft yarn 12Ub is exposed on the non-pile surface of the upper fabric 10U, is submerged under one weft yarn 12Uc, and then is passed over the one weft yarn 12Ud. After the manifestation, the repetitive dive continues under the five wefts 12Ue, 12Uf, 12Ug, 12Uh, and 12Ua.
When the pile yarns 13b and 13b continue to dive under the five wefts 12Ue, 12Uf, 12Ug, 12Uh, and 12Ua, the pile yarns 13b and 13b dive under one weft 12Uf of the lower fabric 10D, and then the 1 of the lower fabric 10D. It appears on the pile surface of the lower cloth 10U over the weft 12Dg of the book.
The pile yarns 13b and 13b are revealed on the pile surface of the lower cloth 10U under the one weft 12Ug that follows.
Thereafter, the pile yarns 13b and 13b are manifested on the non-pile surface of the upper fabric 10U over the weft yarn 12Ub.
Upper cloth 10U and lower cloth 10D are connected via pile yarns 13b and 13b.

The pile yarns 13a and 13b connecting the upper cloth 10U and the lower cloth 10D are then cut by the knife 15 between the upper cloth 10U and the lower cloth 10D.
As a result, the upper cloth 10U and the lower cloth 10D are cut off, and the cloth for clothing with two back piles overlapped vertically is obtained (FIG. 3).

FIG. 5B is a woven structure diagram of weft yarns and pile yarns.
In the woven structure diagram shown in FIG. 5, the ▪ marks indicate the structure points where the warp passes over the weft.
A mark indicates a texture point where the pile yarn exceeds the weft.
The □ marks indicate the texture points where the wefts go over the warp.

In FIG. 5C and FIG. 5D, reference symbols “c” and “f” indicate a hook frame that moves the pile yarn up and down to move it in an opening manner.
As shown in FIG. 5 (c) and FIG. 5 (d), the fabric for clothing with a back pile according to the present invention includes a heel frame, a heel frame, a heel frame, a heel frame, a heel frame, It can be woven using a conventional double pile loom equipped with a total of 10 hook frames including a frame frame, a frame frame, a frame frame H, a frame frame and a frame frame.

As shown in FIG. 5A, the base fabric of the garment for clothing with back pile shown in FIG. 2 and FIG. 3 is constituted by 1/3 · 4 sheets of twill and 4 pieces of broken satin.
As such, the weaving structure of the base fabric (10) is 4 sheets, 5 sheets, 6 sheets, 7 sheets, 8 sheets, 4 sheets torn, 5 sheets, 6 sheets, 6 sheets, and 7 sheets. And may be synthesized by any two types of woven textures of 8 sheets.
In other words, the non-pile surface is made of 4 sheets, 5 sheets, 6 sheets, 7 sheets, 8 sheets, 4 tears, 5 sheets, 6 sheets, 7 sheets, 7 sheets, or 8 sheets. There is no reason to say that it must consist of any one type of single weave.

When the woven structure on the non-pile surface is selectively changed, a design pattern can be drawn on the non-pile surface depending on the partial difference in the woven structure.
In addition, when drawing the design pattern on the non-pile surface by selectively changing the woven structure in such a manner, every time the warp 11 is submerged under one weft 12, there are three or more warps 11 4 wefts over the weft, 5 warps over the warp 11 over 3 or more wefts, 6 weave over the warp 11 over 3 or more wefts, 3 or more wefts with the warp 11 7 twills over the top, 8 twills over the warp 11 over 3 or more wefts, 4 tears over the warp 11 over 3 wefts, warp 11 is 4 wefts 5 sheets of satin over the top, 6 sheets of warp 11 over the top of 5 wefts, 7 sheets of warp 11 over the top of 6 wefts, 8 sheets of warp 11 over the top of 7 wefts It is also possible to partially apply woven structures other than the satin to non-pile surfaces.

FIG. 6 illustrates nine types of four-sheet twill structures that can be applied to the weave structure shown in FIG. FIG. 7 (a) shows a cypress weave structure comprising 1/3 · 4 twills shown in FIG. 6 (a) and 3/1 · 4 twills shown in FIG. 6 (c).
FIG.7 (c) shows the woven structure in the non-pile surface of the textile fabric 10 with the back pile which becomes the cedar twill structure.
FIG. 7B shows the woven structure of the weft yarn 12 and the pile yarn 13.
As is clear from FIG. 7, the design can be drawn on the non-pile surface by partially changing the texture and depending on the difference in the texture.

The fineness Dr of the warp is preferably 250 dtex to 600 dtex.
The warp density Nr is calculated according to the relational expression: Kr = Nr × (0.9 × Dr) ^1/2 so that the cover factor Kr by the warp is 1000 to 2000.
For example, when the warp fineness Dr is 594 dtex and the warp density Nr is 68 / 25.4 mm, the cover factor Kr by the warp is 1580.
When the warp fineness Dr is 297 dtex and the warp density Nr is 120 yarns / 25.4 mm, the cover factor Kr by warp is 1970.

It is desirable to make the weft fineness Df the same as the warp fineness Dr, or make the weft fineness Df smaller than the warp fineness Dr.
It is desirable to make the weft density Nf the same as the warp density Nr or make the weft density Nf coarser than the warp density Nr.
In particular, the fineness Df of the weft is desirably 0.6 times or less (Df ≦ 0.6 × Dr) of the fineness Dr of the warp.
By doing so, the weft is not exposed to the non-pile surface, and the dead piles 16a and 16b are moved and easily covered with the warp yarn adjacent to the pile yarn.
As a result, it becomes easy to obtain the fabric 10 for clothing with a back pile suitable for clothing that can be worn with the non-pile surface facing the human eye.

In order for the dead piles 16a and 16b to move and be covered easily under the warp yarn adjacent to the pile yarn, it is desirable to arrange the pile yarn 13 at a ratio of one to four to eight warps.
By doing so, four or more warps are interposed between the pile 14a and the pile 14b adjacent in the two directions of the weaving direction and the weaving width direction, and are adjacent in the weaving width direction. Eight or more warps are interposed between the piles 14 and 14.
As a result, the dead piles 16 of these piles 14 are moved so as to be pushed under the warp yarns that are in contact with each other and easily covered with the warp yarns.

Furthermore, in order to make it easy for the dead piles 16a and 16b to move and be covered under the warp yarn adjacent to the pile yarn, the four pieces which are units of an arrangement repeatedly arranged in the weaving width direction in the weaving process. A total of 5 to 9 yarns consisting of 8 warp yarns and 1 pile yarn are combined into one set, and the 1 pile yarn is composed of 2 to 4 warp yarns and 2 to 4 warp yarns. It is desirable to pass between the wings with a gap.
In this case, when the weft is woven into the weft before weaving, the dead pile 16 moves so as to be pushed between the weft and the warp by the wing between the wings, and the non-pile surface It becomes easy to be covered under the adjacent warp.

  Accordingly, preferred embodiments of the present invention are: (1) the cover factor Kr by warp is 1000 to 2000, (2) the warp fineness Dr is 250 to 600 dtex, and (3) the pile yarn fineness Dp. The warp fineness Dr should be 1.2 times or less, (4) one pile yarn should be arranged for every four to eight warps, and (5) the woven structure of the non-pile surface, the warp is 1 Every time you dive under one weft, make it one of four, five, four, torn, or five satin over three to four wefts. (6) In the weaving process A total of 5 to 9 yarns consisting of 4 to 8 warp yarns and one pile yarn are made into one set, and 1 to 2 warp yarns and 2 to 4 warp yarns. The pile yarn is passed between the wings, and the pile surface warps and wefts are spicy due to the fallen pile (7) 0.4 times to 0.6 times (0.4 × Dr ≦ 0.4), where the fineness Df of the weft yarn is about half of the fineness Dr of the warp yarn. Df ≦ 0.6 × Dr).

For the warp and weft, it is desirable to use cellulosic fibers such as cotton fibers and cupra / rayon fibers having hygroscopicity.
In addition to these cellulosic fibers, polyester fibers can be used for the pile yarn.
The most preferred embodiment of the present invention uses cotton fibers for warps and wefts, and in particular, uses cotton fibers for warps, and leaves the warp shaft in an undyed state by an indigo dye. Or only the surface portion exposed on the non-pile surface of the warp (so-called rope dyeing).
If it does so, the textile fabric 10 for the clothing with the denim-like back pile suitable for the casual wear which can be worn through four seasons will be obtained.

It is a side view in the weaving process of the conventional warp pile fabric. It is a perspective view in the weaving process of the textile fabric for clothing with a back pile which concerns on this invention. It is a side view in the weaving process of the textile fabric for clothing with a back pile which concerns on this invention. It is a perspective view of the pile surface of the textile fabric for clothes with a back pile which concerns on this invention. It is an organization chart of the textile fabric for clothes with a back pile concerning the present invention. It is an organization chart of the textile fabric for clothes with a back pile concerning the present invention. It is an organization chart of the textile fabric for clothes with a back pile concerning the present invention.

Explanation of symbols

10: Fabric for clothing with back pile 11: Warp 12: Weft 13: Pile 14: Pile 15: Knife 16: Dead pile 17: Tissue point 20: Base fabric 21 for locking the pile of a conventional warp pile Fastening yarn 22: Covering warp

Claims (4)

(A) 4 warps, 5 warps, 6 warps, 7 warps, 8 warps, and 8 warps (11) that go over 3 or more wefts (12) every time they go under one weft (12) The non-pile surface is made up of any one of the weaving structures of Hiaya, 4 torn, 5 toko, 6 toko, 7 toko and 8 toko,
(B) The pile yarn (13) is arranged in a ratio of one to two to eight warps (11),
(C) Each pile yarn (13) forms a first pile (14) protruding from the pile surface facing the non-pile surface at a ratio of 1 to 6-12 weft yarns (12),
(D) The piles of adjacent pile yarns (13a, 13b) are locked to different weft yarns,
(E) Relational expression where warp fineness (unit: dtex) is Dr and warp density (unit: book / 25.4 mm) is Nr; Kr = Nr × (0.9 × Dr) ^1/2 A textile for clothing with a back pile, characterized in that the calculated cover factor (Kr) by warp is set to 800 or more.   2. The garment for clothing with a back pile according to claim 1, wherein the woven structure is partially different, and the design pattern is drawn on the non-pile surface depending on the partial difference of the woven structure.   The fineness (Dp) of the pile yarn (13) is 1.2 times or less (Dp ≦ 1.2Dr) of the fineness (Dr) of the warp (11). Fabric for clothing with back pile as described. (F) While weaving two woven fabrics with back pile (10U · 10D) with the pile surfaces facing each other in a double pile loom and connecting them with pile yarn (13), The connected pile yarn (13) is cut between two back-pile garment fabrics (10U, 10D) with a knife (15), and the two back-pile garment fabrics (10U, 10D) In the manufacturing method of the fabric for clothing with the back pile separating
(G) Relational expression in which the fineness (unit: dtex) of the warp (11) is Dr and the warp density (unit: book / 25.4 mm) is Nr; Kr = Nr × (0.9 × Dr) ^1/2 The cover factor Kr of the warp (11) calculated according to is set to 800 or more,
(H) The pile yarn (13) is arranged at a ratio of one to two to eight warps (11),
(I) The piles of adjacent pile yarns (13a, 13b) are locked to different weft yarns,
(J) forming a first pile (14) protruding from the pile surface opposite to the non-pile surface at a ratio of 1 to 6-12 weft yarns (12) depending on each pile yarn (13);
(K) 4 warps, 5 warps, 6 warps, 7 warps, 8 warps (8) that exceed the top of 3 or more wefts (12) each time the warp (11) lies under one weft (12) Non-pile surface woven fabric, characterized in that it forms a non-pile surface according to any one of the weaving structure of single twill, four torn vermilion, five vermilion, six vermilion, seven vermilion, and eight vermilion. The manufacturing method.

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