CN113015515B - 化妆品 - Google Patents
化妆品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113015515B CN113015515B CN201880099362.7A CN201880099362A CN113015515B CN 113015515 B CN113015515 B CN 113015515B CN 201880099362 A CN201880099362 A CN 201880099362A CN 113015515 B CN113015515 B CN 113015515B
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- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- inulin
- extract
- oil
- polymerization degree
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 77
- JYJIGFIDKWBXDU-MNNPPOADSA-N inulin Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)OC[C@]1(OC[C@]2(OC[C@]3(OC[C@]4(OC[C@]5(OC[C@]6(OC[C@]7(OC[C@]8(OC[C@]9(OC[C@]%10(OC[C@]%11(OC[C@]%12(OC[C@]%13(OC[C@]%14(OC[C@]%15(OC[C@]%16(OC[C@]%17(OC[C@]%18(OC[C@]%19(OC[C@]%20(OC[C@]%21(OC[C@]%22(OC[C@]%23(OC[C@]%24(OC[C@]%25(OC[C@]%26(OC[C@]%27(OC[C@]%28(OC[C@]%29(OC[C@]%30(OC[C@]%31(OC[C@]%32(OC[C@]%33(OC[C@]%34(OC[C@]%35(OC[C@]%36(O[C@@H]%37[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%37)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%36)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%35)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%34)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%33)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%32)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%31)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%30)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%29)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%28)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%27)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%26)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%25)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%24)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%23)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%22)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%21)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%20)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%19)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%18)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%17)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%16)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%15)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%14)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%13)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%12)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%11)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%10)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O9)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O8)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O7)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O6)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O4)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O3)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 JYJIGFIDKWBXDU-MNNPPOADSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 158
- 229920001202 Inulin Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 154
- 229940029339 inulin Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 154
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 96
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 68
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims description 27
- 229920002674 hyaluronan Polymers 0.000 claims description 18
- 229960003160 hyaluronic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 18
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 241001506047 Tremella Species 0.000 claims description 13
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 claims description 8
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 claims 3
- -1 antiphlogistics Substances 0.000 description 172
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 description 108
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 60
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 59
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 55
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 55
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 55
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 54
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 44
- 235000002639 sodium chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 39
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 38
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 36
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 35
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 33
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 32
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 32
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 31
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 30
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 30
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 28
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 27
- 150000004804 polysaccharides Chemical class 0.000 description 24
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 24
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 23
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 description 22
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 description 22
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 22
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 description 22
- 229940088598 enzyme Drugs 0.000 description 22
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 22
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 22
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 21
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 21
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 21
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 21
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 20
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 20
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 20
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 20
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 description 19
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 18
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 18
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 17
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 17
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 17
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 15
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 15
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical class OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 14
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 14
- 235000007542 Cichorium intybus Nutrition 0.000 description 13
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 13
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 13
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 13
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 13
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 13
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 12
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 12
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 11
- 244000005700 microbiome Species 0.000 description 11
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 11
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 11
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical class OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 11
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 11
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 11
- 241000723343 Cichorium Species 0.000 description 10
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 125000002511 behenyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 10
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 10
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 9
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 description 9
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 9
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 9
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- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 9
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 9
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 8
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 8
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfuric acid Chemical compound OS(O)(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
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Abstract
本发明提供一种化妆品,其含有菊粉组合物,该组合物中的全菊粉的平均聚合度为13~23,全部菊粉100质量%中,含有95质量%以上的聚合度为5~29的菊粉。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品。
背景技术
菊粉属于多糖类的一种,在自然界中广泛分布,在大丽花、菊芋、旋覆花等菊科植物的块茎或菊苣的根等中以胶体形式存在。其构造是D-果糖在蔗糖的果糖侧以β-(2→1)键脱水聚合的结构。这样的植物来源的菊粉因植物的种类而存在些许差异,但已知其聚合度的分布大约在8~60的范围内,平均聚合度大约为30左右。
作为制造菊粉的方法,已知从上述那样的植物进行提取的方法,在工业上也得到了应用。另外,上述这样的能够提取菊粉的高等植物中必然含有生成菊粉的酶,还已知使用从这样的植物提取得到的酶来生成菊粉的方法,但从植物体制备大量的酶需要耗费大量的时间和劳动,因此,工业规模的利用是不现实的。
另外,作为其他方法,已知利用微生物的酶来制造菊粉类似物的方法。例如,已经报导了通过萨氏曲霉(Aspergillus sydowi)的分生胞子或菌体处理得到具有菊粉型构造的物质的方法、利用属于曲霉菌(Aspergillus)属或镰刀菌(Fusarium)属的微生物所产生的酶得到菊粉类似物的方法、利用属于变异链球菌(Streptococcus mutans)的微生物所产生的酶得到菊粉类似物的方法等(参照专利文献1的背景技术)。然而,使用这些微生物的酶生成的化合物中,虽然以与菊粉同样的果糖以β-(2→1)键脱水聚合的构造为主,但其性质与植物来源的菊粉差异很大(其分子巨大或者结合形式不同等),因此为了与菊粉区分,被称作菊粉型多聚果糖(Polyfructan)。
另一方面,近年来,作为利用微生物的酶制造菊粉的新的方法,开发出了利用来自属于杆菌属微生物的酶的方法(专利文献1、2)。根据这种方法,能够得到具有与植物来源的菊粉结构相同且平均分子量相近的菊粉组合物。此外,还可以通过调整合成条件来控制平均聚合度,并且能够获得聚合度分布较窄的菊粉。通过这种方法得到的菊粉已被尝试主要用于食品中(例如专利文件3、4、非专利文件1)。
至于菊粉在化妆品中的应用,专利文献5公开了一种配合了菊粉的皮肤化妆品,记载了它能够作为不黏腻、吸收好的保湿剂使用。该文献中使用的菊粉是使用萨氏曲霉的分生胞子得到的,记载了其分子量为10,000~10,000,000。专利文件6、7记载了菊粉或其衍生物对皮肤细胞具有各种生理活性。这些文件中使用的菊粉是植物来源的菊粉,记载了其平均聚合度为5至30。专利文献8中记载了将菊粉作为可水洗型化妆品的调节剂,能够用于替代阳离子聚合物。该文献中使用的菊粉源自菊苣,记载了其聚合度在2~70的范围内,平均聚合度为10~12。即,对于植物来源的菊粉和现有已知的源自微生物的酶的菊粉型多聚果糖,在化妆品方面的应用已经是众所周知的。然而,这些植物来源的菊粉或源自微生物的酶的菊粉型多聚果糖在被用于化妆品时,对于水的溶解性不充分,存在在配方中析出或成为浑浊原因等问题,并且,产品的使用感也不能令人满意。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1:日本特许第4676672号公报
专利文献2:日本特许第4307259号公报
专利文献3:日本特许第4275189号公报
专利文献4:日本特开2014-140324号公报
专利文献5:日本特开平04-352714号公报
专利文献6:日本特表2004-501175号公报
专利文献7:日本特表2004-501176号公报
专利文献8:日本特表2007-525488号公报
非专利文献
非专利文献1:日本食品科学Vol.45 2月号p.18~24,2006年
发明内容
发明所要解决的课题
鉴于上述情况,本发明的目的在于提供一种对于水的溶解性高、在配方中的稳定性优异、使用感也优异的化妆品。
用于解决课题的技术方案
为了实现上述目的,本发明的发明人进行了深入研究,结果发现通过使用含有全部菊粉的平均聚合度为13~23、在全部菊粉100质量%中含有聚合度为5~29的菊粉95质量%以上的菊粉组合物,能够提供对于水的溶解性高、在配方中的稳定性优异、使用感也优异的化妆品。本发明的发明人基于该观点进一步进行研究,从而完成了本发明。
即,本发明提供以下的化妆品。
项1.一种化妆品,其含有菊粉组合物,该组合物中,全部菊粉的平均聚合度为13~23,全部菊粉100质量%中,含有95质量%以上的聚合度为5~29的菊粉。
项2.如项1所述的化妆品,其中,还含有水溶性多糖类。
项3.如项2所述的化妆品,其中,上述水溶性多糖类为选自银耳多糖体、透明质酸和黄原胶中的1种以上。
项4.如项1~3中任一项所述的化妆品,其为皮肤清洁剂。
发明效果
根据本发明所涉及的化妆品,能够提供对于水的溶解性高、在配方中的稳定性优异、使用感也优异的化妆品。
附图说明
图1是表示菊粉组合物的聚合度分布的曲线图。
具体实施方式
本发明的化妆品的特征在于,含有菊粉组合物,该菊粉组合物中全部菊粉的平均聚合度为13~23,全部菊粉100质量%中,含有95质量%以上的聚合度为5~29的菊粉。
菊粉组合物
在本发明中使用的菊粉组合物的特征在于,其是控制了平均聚合度的菊粉,而且,聚合度的分布窄。
进一步具体而言,关于本发明中使用的菊粉组合物,该菊粉组合物所含的全部菊粉的平均聚合度为13~23,而且,全部菊粉100质量%中,含有95质量%以上的聚合度为5~29的菊粉。通过将该菊粉组合物用于化妆品,与现有品相比,能够发挥高溶解性和优异的使用感,还能够发挥促进产生表皮透明质酸和改善泡沫品质这样的优异的效果。
在本说明书中,所得到的菊粉的平均聚合度的分析可以按照如下方式进行。其中,聚合度是指菊粉中的糖类单元(果糖和葡萄糖单元)的数量,平均聚合度例如可以如下操作,将通过HPLC、GC、HPAEC等常规的分析法求得的各分析结果的峰中的峰顶作为平均聚合度。作为色谱柱,例如,能够使用信和化工制的ULTRON PS-80N(8×300mm)(溶剂:水,流速:0.5ml/min,温度:50℃)或者TOSOH制的TSK-GEL G30000 PWXL(7.8×300mm)(溶剂:水,流速:0.5ml/min,温度:50℃),作为检出器使用差示折射计来确认,关于生成菊粉的聚合度,例如可以使用将植物来源的菊粉ORAFTI公司的RAFTILINE ST(平均聚合度11)和RAFTILINEHP(平均聚合度22)用作标准物质制作的校正曲线求得。其中,关于菊粉聚合度的分析,可以基于Loo等人(Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition,35(6),525-552(1995))的方法实施。
菊粉组合物的平均聚合度小于13时,赋予爽滑感的效果不够充分,并且无法充分发挥泡沫品质改善效果。相反,平均聚合度大于23时,对于水的溶解性欠缺,并且黏腻感增强,因此不优选。
在进一步发挥本发明效果的方面上,不仅是平均聚合度,聚合度的分布窄也是非常重要的,优选不含较多的本发明的聚合度范围外的菊粉。具体而言,在本发明的化妆品所含的菊粉组合物中,在全部菊粉100质量%中,含有95质量%以上的聚合度为5~29的菊粉。在聚合度的分布变宽时,会含有较多的本发明的聚合度范围外的聚合度小或聚合度大的菊粉。聚合度小的菊粉多时,赋予爽滑感的效果不充分,无法充分发挥泡沫品质改善效果,相反,聚合度大的菊粉多时,对于水的溶解性欠缺,黏腻感增强,因此不优选。
该菊粉组合物例如可以使用源自属于杆菌属的微生物的酶来制造。具体而言,如专利文献1、2所记载的那样,但其要点为以下的说明。
首先,对于菊粉合成酶进行说明,可以使用源自属于杆菌属的微生物的酶,进一步具体而言,可以使用由杆菌sp.217C-11株(FERM BP-7450)的培养液或培养菌体或者其处理物得到的酶。该杆菌sp.217C-11株的培养法和酶的制备方法,在以下进行简单说明。
在菊粉合成酶的培养法中,作为在培养基中添加的碳源,以适当浓度使用常规使用的碳源即可。例如,可以单独使用或混合使用蔗糖、葡萄糖、果糖、麦芽糖等糖类,但最优选的碳源是蔗糖。通过使用将其作为主碳源的液体培养基进行培养,能够提高该酶的活性。作为氮源,除了蛋白胨、肉膏、酵母提取物、玉米浆等有机氮源之外,还可以单独使用或混合使用硫酸、硝酸、磷酸的铵盐等无机氮源。作为无机盐类,能够分别单独使用或组合使用钾、钠、钙、镁、锰、铁等的硫酸盐、盐酸盐、碳酸盐、硝酸盐、磷酸盐等。还可以依据需要适当使用氨基酸、维生素等常规的用于培养的营养源等。作为具体的培养基,可以使用含有蔗糖0.5~2%(w/v)、蛋白胨1%、酵母提取物0.5%、磷酸氢二钾0.2%的pH为7~8的液体培养基。
培养能够以振荡式或使用小型发酵罐在通气条件下进行。培养基的pH优选为6~9的范围,培养温度优选为25℃~37℃的范围,培养时间只要在微生物能够增殖的时间以上即可,可以为5~96小时,优选为15~72小时。将杆菌sp.217C-11株在之前所示的培养基中培养后,通过离心分离进行除菌,然后使用分级分子量为30,000的超滤膜将培养上清液浓缩,作为反应用的酶液使用。该源自杆菌sp.217C-11株的菊粉合成酶具有以下的理化性质。
分子量:45,000~50,000
最佳温度:40~50℃
热稳定性:超过45℃开始逐渐失活,在50℃表现出70%的残留活性,在60℃表现出40%的残留活性
最佳pH:7~8(45℃)
pH稳定性:在pH6以上时稳定
其中,该菊粉合成酶具有与蔗糖发生作用而生成菊粉、但不与蔗果三糖、麦芽糖、乳糖、海藻糖、纤维二糖发生作用的作用和底物特异性。
接着,对于使用上述这样得到的菊粉合成酶制造菊粉组合物的方法进行说明。菊粉合成酶的浓度只要是反应液中的蔗糖(底物)能够被充分利用的浓度即可,例如,在蔗糖40~60%(w/w)的情况下,优选形成菊粉合成酶的活性为0.4unit/mL的反应液的浓度。以蔗糖为底物生成菊粉的适当的条件优选使用pH为6~8的范围的反应液。而且,为了保持该反应液的pH,也能够使用磷酸缓冲液。反应时间可以根据菊粉合成酶的使用量等适当变更,通常为0.1~100小时,优选0.5~72小时。
在制造菊粉组合物时,可以通过(1)调节蔗糖浓度、(2)调节使菊粉合成酶与蔗糖接触时的温度、(3)追加蔗糖来调节所生成的菊粉的平均聚合度。
对于上述(1)调节蔗糖浓度进行进一步说明,蔗糖浓度的调节在使菊粉合成酶与蔗糖接触合成菊粉时对应于所生成的菊粉的平均聚合度进行。具体的蔗糖浓度例如为3~68%(w/w)、优选为10~60%(w/w)的范围,通过将蔗糖浓度较低地在上述范围内设定,能够提高所得到的菊粉的平均聚合度。例如,在反应温度为15℃的情况下,原料的蔗糖浓度为50%时所得到的菊粉的平均聚合度为10,而原料的蔗糖浓度为20%时所得到的菊粉的平均聚合度为18。另外,在反应温度为37℃的情况下,原料的蔗糖浓度为60%时所得到的菊粉的平均聚合度为9,而原料的蔗糖浓度为20%时所得到的菊粉的平均聚合度为20。因此,通过适当设定蔗糖浓度,能够得到预期的平均聚合度的菊粉。
在反应液中生成的菊粉可以按照公知的方法进行精制。例如,可以利用离子交换树脂或活性碳等对所得到的反应液进行精制,再对其进行减压浓缩或者利用反渗透膜进行浓缩,接着进行冷却得到菊粉结晶来实施。或者,通过向反应液中添加乙醇等有机溶剂使菊粉沉淀回收的方法也是可行的,但不限于这些。
作为菊粉组合物在化妆品中的配合量,只要在不损害本发明效果的范围内就没有特别限制,通常为0.01~30质量%,优选为0.05~15质量%。
水溶性多糖类
在配合了本发明的菊粉组合物的化妆品中,优选进一步配合水溶性多糖类。作为水溶性多糖类,具体可以列举银耳多糖体、透明质酸、黄原胶、海藻酸、瓜尔胶、阳离子化瓜尔胶、角叉菜胶、结冷胶、琼脂糖、羧甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、纤维素纳米纤维等,最优选银耳多糖体、透明质酸、黄原胶。通过将这样的水溶性多糖类并用,能够降低本发明的菊粉组合物在配方中的析出或浑浊,还能够增强泡沫品质改善效果。作为水溶性多糖类的配合量,只要在不损害本发明效果的范围就没有特别限制,但从充分发挥菊粉组合物与水溶性多糖类并用所带来的效果的观点出发,相对于菊粉组合物的配合量,通常配合0.001~2质量倍、优选0.002~1质量倍、最优选0.005~0.5质量倍。将菊粉组合物与水溶性多糖类并用的情况下,可以分别配合在化妆品中,或者也可以制备将菊粉组合物与水溶性多糖类溶解在水中的预混组合物,再将这样的预混组合物配合到化妆品中。预混组合物中可以根据需要进一步添加防腐剂、pH调节-缓冲剂、保湿剂等。
本发明的化妆品中,可以依照需要在不损害本发明效果的程度内含有水和通常配合在化妆品中的添加成分,例如可以含有油性基剂、表面活性剂、醇类、保湿剂、高分子-增粘-胶凝剂、抗氧化剂、防腐剂、杀菌剂、螯合剂、pH调节剂-酸-碱、紫外线吸收剂、美白剂、溶剂、角质剥离-溶解剂、止痒剂、消炎剂、抑汗剂、清凉剂、抗组胺剂、收敛剂、刺激剂、生发用药剂-血液循环促进剂、还原剂-氧化剂、高分子粉体、含氧酸、维生素类及其衍生物类、糖类及其衍生物类、有机酸类、酶类、核酸类、激素类、无机粉体类、香料、色素等。
作为油性基剂,优选列举:鲸蜡醇、肉豆蔻醇、油醇、月桂醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇、硬脂醇、花生醇、山嵛醇、霍霍巴醇、鲛肝醇、鲨油醇(Selachyl Alcohol)、鲨肝醇、己基癸醇、异硬脂醇、2-辛基十二烷醇、二聚二醇等高级醇类;苄基醇等芳烷基醇和衍生物;月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、异硬脂酸、山萮酸、十一碳烯酸、12-羟基硬脂酸、棕榈油酸、油酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸、芥酸、二十二碳六烯酸、二十碳五烯酸、异十六烷酸、反异二十一烷酸、长链分支脂肪酸、二聚酸、氢化二聚酸等高级脂肪酸类及其铝盐、钙盐、镁盐、锌盐、钾、钠盐等的金属皂类、以及酰胺等含氮衍生物类;液体石蜡(矿物油)、重质液体异构石蜡、轻质液体异构石蜡、α-烯烃低聚体、聚异丁烯、氢化聚异丁烯、聚丁烯、角鲨烷、来自橄榄的角鲨烷、角鲨烯、凡士林、固体石蜡等烃类;小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、米糠蜡、木蜡、蜜蜡、褐煤蜡、地蜡(ozokerite)、纯地蜡(ceresin)、石蜡、微晶蜡、矿脂、费-托合成蜡、聚乙烯蜡、乙烯-丙烯共聚物等蜡类;椰油、棕榈油、棕榈仁油、红花油、橄榄油、蓖麻油、鳄梨油、芝麻油、茶油、月见草油、小麦胚芽油、澳洲坚果油、榛果油、夏威夷核果油、玫瑰果油、白池花籽油、桃仁油、茶树油、薄荷油、玉米油、菜籽油、葵花籽油、小麦胚芽油、亚麻籽油、棉籽油、豆油、花生油、米糠油、可可脂、乳木果油、氢化椰油、氢化蓖麻油、霍霍巴油、氢化霍霍巴油等植物油脂类;牛油、乳脂、马油、蛋黄油、貂油、龟油等动物性油脂类;鲸蜡、羊毛脂、大西洋胄胸鲷油等动物性蜡类;液态羊毛脂、还原羊毛脂、吸附精制羊毛脂、乙酰化羊毛脂、乙酰化液态羊毛脂、羟基羊毛脂、聚氧亚乙基羊毛脂、羊毛脂脂肪酸、硬质羊毛脂脂肪酸、羊毛脂醇、乙酰化羊毛脂醇、乙酸(鲸蜡-羊毛脂)酯等羊毛脂类;卵磷脂、磷脂酰胆碱、磷脂酰乙醇胺、磷脂酰丝氨酸、磷脂酰丙三醇、磷脂酰肌醇、神经鞘磷脂等鞘磷脂、磷脂酸、环状溶血磷脂酸或其盐、溶血卵磷脂等磷脂类;氢化大豆磷脂、部分氢化大豆磷脂、氢化蛋黄磷脂、部分氢化蛋黄磷脂等磷脂衍生物类;胆甾醇、二氢胆甾醇、羊毛甾醇、二氢羊毛甾醇、植物甾醇、胆酸等甾醇类;皂苷配基类;皂苷类;胆甾醇乙酸酯、胆甾醇壬酸酯、胆甾醇硬脂酸酯、胆甾醇异硬脂酸酯、胆甾醇油酸酯、N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸二(胆甾基/山嵛基/辛基十二烷基)酯、N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸二(胆甾基/辛基十二烷基)酯、N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸二(植物甾醇基/山嵛基/辛基十二烷基)酯、N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸二(植物甾醇基/辛基十二烷基)酯、N-月桂酰肌氨酸异丙酯等酰基肌氨酸烷基酯、12-羟基硬脂酸胆甾醇酯、澳洲坚果油脂肪酸胆甾醇酯、澳洲坚果油脂肪酸植物甾醇酯、向日葵籽油脂肪酸植物甾醇酯、异硬脂酸植物甾醇酯、软质羊毛脂脂肪酸胆甾醇酯、硬质羊毛脂脂肪酸胆甾醇酯、长链分支脂肪酸胆甾醇酯、长链α-羟基脂肪酸胆甾醇酯等甾醇酯类;磷脂-胆甾醇复合体、磷脂-植物甾醇复合体等脂质复合体;肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、肉豆蔻酸己基癸酯、异硬脂酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸辛基十二烷基酯、辛酸鲸蜡酯、辛酸己基癸酯、异壬酸异十三烷基酯、异壬酸异壬酯、异壬酸辛酯、异壬酸异十三烷基酯、新戊酸异癸酯、新戊酸异十三烷基酯、新戊酸异硬脂酯、新癸酸辛基十二烷基酯、油酸油酯、油酸辛基十二烷基酯、蓖麻油酸辛基十二烷基酯、羊毛脂脂肪酸辛基十二烷基酯、碳酸二辛酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、芥酸辛基十二烷基酯、异硬脂酸固化蓖麻油、油酸乙酯、鳄梨油脂肪酸乙酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、棕榈酸辛酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、羊毛脂脂肪酸异丙酯、月桂酸甲基庚酯、肉豆蔻酸甲基庚酯、棕榈酸甲基庚酯、异硬脂酸甲基庚酯、癸二酸二乙酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、癸二酸二辛酯、己二酸二异丙酯、癸二酸二丁基辛酯、己二酸二异丁酯、琥珀酸二辛酯、柠檬酸三乙酯等单醇羧酸酯类;乳酸鲸蜡酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯、单异硬脂酸氢化蓖麻油、γ-芥酸内酯(Erucalactone)等羟基酸酯类;三辛酸甘油酯、三油酸甘油酯、三异硬脂酸甘油酯、二异硬脂酸甘油酯、三(辛酸/癸酸)甘油酯、三(辛酸/癸酸/肉豆蔻酸/硬脂酸)甘油酯、氢化松香甘油三酯(氢化酯胶)、松香甘油三酯(酯胶)、山萮酸二十烷二酸甘油酯、三辛酸三羟甲基丙烷酯、三异硬脂酸三羟甲基丙烷酯、二辛酸新戊二醇酯、二癸酸新戊二醇酯、二辛酸-2-丁基-2-乙基-1,3-丙二醇酯、二油酸丙二醇酯、四辛酸季戊四醇酯、氢化松香季戊四醇酯、三乙基己酸双三羟甲基丙烷酯、(异硬脂酸/癸二酸)双三羟甲基丙烷酯、三乙基己酸季戊四醇酯、(羟基硬脂酸/硬脂酸/松香酸)双季戊四醇酯、二异硬脂酸二甘油酯、四异硬脂酸多甘油酯、九异硬脂酸多甘油酯-10、十(芥酸/异硬脂酸/蓖麻油酸)多甘油酯-8、(己基癸烷酸/癸二酸)二甘油寡聚酯、二硬脂酸二醇酯(二硬脂酸乙二醇酯)、二新戊酸-3-甲基-1,5-戊二醇酯、二新戊酸-2,4-二乙基-1,5-戊二醇酯等多元醇脂肪酸酯类;二辛醚等烷基醚类;二聚二亚油酸二异丙酯、二聚二亚油酸二异硬脂酯、二聚二亚油酸二(异硬脂基/植物甾醇基)酯、二聚二亚油酸(植物甾醇基/山嵛基)酯、二聚二亚油酸(植物甾醇基/异硬脂基/鲸蜡/硬脂基/山嵛基)酯、二聚二亚油酸二聚二亚油醇酯、二异硬脂酸二聚二亚油醇酯、二聚二亚油醇氢化松香缩合物、二聚二亚油酸固化蓖麻油、羟基烷基二聚二亚油基醚等二聚酸或二聚二醇的衍生物;椰油脂肪酸单乙醇酰胺(椰油酰胺MEA)、椰油脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺(椰油酰胺DEA)、月桂酸单乙醇酰胺(月桂酰胺MEA)、月桂酸二乙醇酰胺(月桂酰胺DEA)、月桂酸单异丙醇酰胺(月桂酰胺MIPA)、棕榈酸单乙醇酰胺(棕榈酰胺MEA)、棕榈酸二乙醇酰胺(棕榈酰胺DEA)、椰油脂肪酸甲基乙醇酰胺(椰油酰胺甲基MEA)等脂肪酸烷醇酰胺类;二甲硅油(二甲基聚硅氧烷)、高聚合二甲硅油(高聚合二甲基聚硅氧烷)、环甲硅油(环状二甲基硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷)、苯基三甲硅油、二苯基二甲硅油、苯基二甲硅油、(氨基乙基氨基丙基甲硅油/二甲硅油)共聚物、聚二甲基硅氧烷醇、聚二甲基硅氧烷醇交联聚合物、硅酮树脂、硅酮橡胶、氨基丙基二甲硅油和氨端二甲硅油等氨基改性硅酮、阳离子改性硅酮、二甲硅油共聚醇等聚醚改性硅酮、多甘油改性硅酮、糖改性硅酮、羧酸改性硅酮、磷酸改性硅酮、硫酸改性硅酮、烷基改性硅酮、脂肪酸改性硅酮、烷基醚改性硅酮、氨基酸改性硅酮、肽改性硅酮、氟改性硅酮、阳离子改性和聚醚改性硅酮、氨基改性和聚醚改性硅酮、烷基改性和聚醚改性硅酮、酰胺烷基改性硅酮、氨基二醇改性硅酮、氨基苯基改性硅酮、聚硅氧烷-氧化烯共聚物等硅酮类;全氟癸烷、全氟辛烷、全氟聚醚等氟系油剂类。
作为保湿剂-感触提升剂,优选列举:甘油、1,3-丁二醇、丙二醇、3-甲基-1,3-丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇、2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇、三羟甲基丙烷、季戊四醇、己二醇、二甘油、聚甘油、二乙二醇、聚乙二醇、二丙二醇、聚丙二醇、乙二醇-丙二醇共聚物等多元醇类及其聚合物;二乙二醇单乙醚(乙氧基二甘醇)、乙二醇单乙醚、乙二醇单丁醚、二乙二醇二丁醚等二醇烷基醚类;(二十烷二酸/十四烷二酸)聚甘油酯-10、十四烷二酸聚甘油酯-10、环己二酸双乙氧基二甘醇等水溶性酯类;山梨糖醇、木糖醇、赤藓糖醇、甘露糖醇、麦芽糖醇等糖醇类;葡萄糖、果糖、半乳糖、甘露糖、苏糖、木糖、阿拉伯糖、岩藻糖、核糖、脱氧核糖、麦芽糖、海藻糖、乳糖、棉子糖、葡糖酸、葡糖醛酸、环糊精类(α-环糊精、β-环糊精、γ-环糊精和麦芽糖基化、羟基烷基化等修饰环糊精)、β-葡聚糖、甲壳素、壳聚糖、肝素和衍生物、果胶、阿拉伯半乳聚糖、糊精、葡聚糖、糖原、乙基葡糖苷、甲基丙烯酸葡糖基乙酯聚合物或共聚物等糖类及其衍生物类;透明质酸、透明质酸钠;硫酸软骨素钠;硫酸粘液素、硫酸卡隆素(charonin sulfate)、硫酸角质素、硫酸皮肤素;银耳提取物、银耳多糖体;菊粉、果聚糖(levan)等果聚糖(fructan)类;岩藻多糖(fucoidan);晚香玉多糖体、天然来源多糖体;柠檬酸、酒石酸、乳酸等有机酸及其盐;尿素;2-吡咯烷酮-5-羧酸及其钠等的盐;甜菜碱(三甲基甘氨酸)、脯氨酸、羟脯氨酸、精氨酸、赖氨酸、丝氨酸、甘氨酸、丙氨酸、苯基丙氨酸、酪氨酸、β-丙氨酸、苏氨酸、谷氨酸、谷氨酰胺、天冬酰胺、天冬氨酸、半胱氨酸、胱氨酸、甲硫氨酸、亮氨酸、异亮氨酸、缬氨酸、色氨酸、组氨酸、牛磺酸等氨基酸类及其盐;胶原蛋白、来自鱼的胶原蛋白、缺端胶原蛋白、明胶、弹性蛋白、胶原蛋白分解肽、水解胶原蛋白、羟丙基氯化铵水解胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白分解肽、角蛋白分解肽、水解角蛋白、贝壳硬蛋白分解肽、水解贝壳硬蛋白、蚕丝蛋白分解肽、水解蚕丝、月桂酰水解蚕丝钠、大豆蛋白分解肽、小麦蛋白分解肽、水解小麦蛋白、酪蛋白分解肽、酰基化肽等蛋白肽类及其衍生物;棕榈酰寡肽、棕榈酰五肽、棕榈酰四肽等酰基化肽类;硅烷基化肽类;乳酸菌培养液、酵母提取液、蛋壳膜蛋白、牛颌下腺粘蛋白、亚牛磺酸、芝麻木酚素糖苷、谷胱甘肽、白蛋白、乳清;氯化胆碱、磷酸胆碱;胎盘提取液、弹性蛋白、胶原蛋白、芦荟提取物、金缕梅水、丝瓜水、洋甘菊提取物、甘草提取物、紫草提取物、蚕丝提取物、缫丝花提取物、蓍草提取物、桉树提取物、木樨提取物等动物-植物提取成分、天然型神经酰胺(类型1、2、3、4、5、6)、羟基神经酰胺、伪神经酰胺、鞘糖脂、含神经酰胺和糖神经酰胺的提取物等的神经酰胺类。
作为表面活性剂,优选例举阴离子性表面活性剂、非离子性表面活性剂、阳离子性表面活性剂、两性表面活性剂、高分子表面活性剂等。表面活性剂的HLB没有特别限制,可以使用从低至1左右的表面活性剂到高达20左右的表面活性剂,优选将HLB低的表面活性剂和高的表面活性剂组合使用。作为表面活性剂的优选物质,作为阴离子性表面活性剂,可以例示:月桂酸钾、肉豆蔻酸钾等脂肪酸盐;月桂基硫酸钠、月桂基硫酸三乙醇胺、月桂基硫酸铵等烷基硫酸酯盐;月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠、月桂醇聚醚硫酸三乙醇胺等聚氧亚乙基烷基硫酸盐;椰油酰甲基牛磺酸钠、椰油酰甲基牛磺酸钾、月桂酰甲基牛磺酸钠、肉豆蔻酰甲基牛磺酸钠、月桂酰甲基丙氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸三乙醇胺、月桂酰谷氨酸甲基丙氨酸钠等酰基-N-甲基氨基酸盐;椰油酰谷氨酸钠、椰油酰谷氨酸三乙醇胺、月桂酰谷氨酸钠、肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸钠、硬脂酰谷氨酸钠、棕榈酰天冬氨酸双三乙醇胺、椰油酰丙氨酸三乙醇胺、二(月桂酰胺谷氨酰胺)赖氨酸钠等酰基氨基酸盐;月桂醇聚醚乙酸酯钠等聚氧亚乙基烷基醚乙酸盐;月桂酰单乙醇酰胺琥珀酸钠等琥珀酸酯盐;脂肪酸烷醇酰胺醚羧酸盐;酰基乳酸盐;聚氧亚乙基脂肪胺硫酸盐;脂肪酸烷醇酰胺硫酸盐;固化椰油脂肪酸甘油酯硫酸钠等脂肪酸甘油酯硫酸盐;烷基苯聚氧亚乙基硫酸盐;α-烯烃磺酸钠等烯烃磺酸盐;月桂醇磺基琥珀酸酯二钠、二辛基磺基琥珀酸钠等烷基磺基琥珀酸盐;磺基琥珀酸月桂醇聚醚酯二钠、单月桂酰单乙醇酰胺聚氧亚乙基磺基琥珀酸钠、月桂基聚丙二醇磺基琥珀酸钠等烷基醚磺基琥珀酸盐;十四烷基苯磺酸钠、十四烷基苯磺酸三乙醇胺等烷基苯磺酸盐;烷基萘磺酸盐;烷基磺酸盐;α-磺基脂肪酸甲酯盐;酰基羟基乙磺酸盐;烷基缩水甘油醚磺酸盐;烷基磺基乙酸盐;月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚磷酸钠、二月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚磷酸钠、三月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚磷酸钠、单油醇磷酸钠等烷基醚磷酸酯盐;月桂基磷酸钾等烷基磷酸酯盐;酪蛋白钠;烷基芳基醚磷酸盐;脂肪酸酰胺醚磷酸盐;磷脂酰丙三醇、磷脂酰肌醇、磷脂酸、环状溶血磷脂酸或其盐等磷脂类;羧酸改性硅酮、磷酸改性硅酮、硫酸改性硅酮等硅酮系阴离子性表面活性剂等。作为非离子表面活性剂,可以例示月桂醇聚醚(聚氧亚乙基月桂基醚)类、鲸蜡醇聚醚(聚氧亚乙基鲸蜡基醚)类、硬脂醇聚醚(聚氧亚乙基硬脂基醚)类、山嵛醇聚醚类(聚氧亚乙基山嵛基醚)、异硬脂醇聚醚(聚氧亚乙基异硬脂基醚)类、辛基十二醇聚醚(聚氧亚乙基辛基十二烷基醚)类等各种的聚氧亚乙基加成数的聚氧亚乙基烷基醚类;聚氧亚乙基烷基苯基醚;聚氧亚乙基固化蓖麻油、聚氧亚乙基蓖麻油、聚氧亚乙基固化蓖麻油单异硬脂酸酯、聚氧亚乙基固化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯、聚氧亚乙基固化蓖麻油单焦谷氨酸单异硬脂酸二酯、聚氧亚乙基固化蓖麻油马来酸等蓖麻油和固化蓖麻油衍生物;聚氧亚乙基植物甾醇;聚氧亚乙基胆甾醇;聚氧亚乙基胆甾烷醇;聚氧亚乙基羊毛脂;聚氧亚乙基还原羊毛脂;聚氧亚乙基-聚氧亚丙基鲸蜡基醚、聚氧亚乙基-聚氧亚丙基-2-癸基十四烷基醚、聚氧亚乙基-聚氧亚丙基单丁醚、聚氧亚乙基-聚氧亚丙基氢化羊毛脂、聚氧亚乙基-聚氧亚丙基甘油醚等聚氧亚乙基-聚氧亚丙基烷基醚;聚氧亚乙基-聚氧丙二醇;PPG-9二甘油等(聚)甘油聚氧丙二醇;硬脂酸甘油酯、异硬脂酸甘油酯、棕榈酸甘油酯、肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、油酸甘油酯、椰油脂肪酸甘油酯、单棉籽油脂肪酸甘油、单芥酸甘油酯、倍半油酸甘油酯、α,α′-油酸焦谷氨酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯苹果酸等的甘油脂肪酸部分酯类;硬脂酸多甘油酯-2、硬脂酸多甘油酯-3、硬脂酸多甘油酯-4、硬脂酸多甘油酯-5、硬脂酸多甘油酯-6、硬脂酸多甘油酯-8、硬脂酸多甘油酯-10、二硬脂酸多甘油酯-6、二硬脂酸多甘油酯-10、三硬脂酸多甘油酯-2、十硬脂酸多甘油酯-10、异硬脂酸多甘油酯-2、异硬脂酸多甘油酯-3、异硬脂酸多甘油酯-4、异硬脂酸多甘油酯-5、异硬脂酸多甘油酯-6、异硬脂酸多甘油酯-8、异硬脂酸多甘油酯-10、二异硬脂酸多甘油酯-2(二异硬脂酸二甘油酯)、二异硬脂酸多甘油酯-3、二异硬脂酸多甘油酯-10、三异硬脂酸多甘油酯-2、四异硬脂酸多甘油酯-2、十异硬脂酸多甘油酯-10、油酸多甘油酯-2、油酸多甘油酯-3、油酸多甘油酯-4、油酸多甘油酯-5、油酸多甘油酯-6、油酸多甘油酯-8、油酸多甘油酯-10、二油酸多甘油酯-6、三油酸多甘油酯-2、十油酸多甘油酯-10等多甘油脂肪酸酯;单硬脂酸乙二醇酯等乙二醇单脂肪酸酯;单硬脂酸丙二醇酯等丙二醇单脂肪酸酯;季戊四醇部分脂肪酸酯;山梨糖醇部分脂肪酸酯;麦芽糖醇部分脂肪酸酯;麦芽糖醇醚;失水山梨糖醇单油酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单异硬脂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单棕榈酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇倍半油酸酯、失水山梨糖醇三油酸酯、五-2-乙基己酸二丙三醇失水山梨糖醇酯、四-2-乙基己基酸二丙三醇失水山梨糖醇酯等失水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯;蔗糖脂肪酸酯、甲基葡糖苷脂肪酸酯、十一碳烯酸海藻糖等糖衍生物部分酯;辛基葡糖苷等烷基葡糖苷;烷基多糖苷;甘露糖赤藓糖醇脂质等糖脂质;羊毛脂醇;还原羊毛脂;聚氧亚乙基二硬脂酸酯、聚乙二醇二异硬脂酸酯、聚氧亚乙基单油酸酯、聚氧亚乙基二油酸酯等聚氧亚乙基脂肪酸单酯和二酯;聚氧亚乙基-丙二醇脂肪酸酯;聚氧亚乙基甘油单硬脂酸酯、聚氧亚乙基甘油单异硬脂酸酯、聚氧亚乙基甘油三异硬脂酸酯等聚氧亚乙基单油酸酯等的聚氧亚乙基甘油脂肪酸酯;聚氧亚乙基失水山梨糖醇单油酸酯、聚氧亚乙基失水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯、聚氧亚乙基失水山梨糖醇单油酸酯、聚氧亚乙基失水山梨糖醇四油酸酯等聚氧亚乙基失水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯;聚氧亚乙基山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、聚氧亚乙基山梨糖醇单油酸酯、聚氧亚乙基山梨糖醇五油酸酯、聚氧亚乙基山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯等聚氧亚乙基山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯;聚氧亚乙基甲基葡糖苷脂肪酸酯;聚氧亚乙基烷基醚脂肪酸酯;聚氧亚乙基山梨糖醇蜂蜡等聚氧亚乙基动植物油脂类;异硬脂基甘油醚、鲛肝醇、鲨油醇、鲨肝醇等烷基甘油醚类;多元醇烷基醚;聚氧亚乙基烷基胺;四聚氧亚乙基-四聚氧亚丙基-乙二胺缩合物类;皂苷、槐糖脂等天然系表面活性剂;聚氧亚乙基脂肪酸酰胺;椰油脂肪酸单乙醇酰胺(椰油酰胺MEA)、椰油脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺(椰油酰胺DEA)、月桂酸单乙醇酰胺(月桂酰胺MEA)、月桂酸二乙醇酰胺(月桂酰胺DEA)、月桂酸单异丙醇酰胺(月桂酰胺MIPA)、棕榈酸单乙醇酰胺(棕榈酰胺MEA)、棕榈酸二乙醇酰胺(棕榈酰胺DEA)、椰油脂肪酸甲基乙醇酰胺(椰油酰胺甲基MEA)等脂肪酸烷醇酰胺类;月桂基胺氧化物、椰油胺氧化物、硬脂胺氧化物、山嵛胺氧化物等烷基二甲胺氧化物;烷基乙氧基二甲胺氧化物;聚氧亚乙基烷基硫醇;二甲硅油共聚醇等聚醚改性硅酮、聚硅氧烷-氧化烯共聚物、多甘油改性硅酮、糖改性硅酮等硅酮系非离子性表面活性剂等。作为阳离子性表面活性剂,可以例示:山嵛基三甲基氯化铵、硬脂基三甲基氯化铵、鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵、月桂基三甲基氯化铵等烷基三甲基氯化铵;硬脂基三甲基溴化铵等烷基三甲基溴化铵;二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵、二椰油基二甲基氯化铵等二烷基二甲基氯化铵;硬脂酰胺丙基二甲胺、硬脂酰胺乙基二乙胺等脂肪酸酰胺胺及其盐;硬脂氧丙基二甲胺等烷基醚胺及其盐或季盐;乙基硫酸长链分支脂肪酸(12~31)氨基丙基乙基二甲基铵、乙基硫酸羊毛脂脂肪酸氨基丙基乙基二甲基铵等脂肪酸酰胺型季铵盐;聚氧亚乙基烷基胺及其盐或季盐;烷基胺盐;脂肪酸酰胺胍盐;烷基醚铵盐;烷基三亚烷基二醇铵盐;苯扎氯铵;苄索氯铵盐;鲸蜡基氯化吡啶鎓等吡啶鎓盐;咪唑啉鎓盐;烷基异喹啉鎓盐;二烷基吗啉鎓盐;多胺脂肪酸衍生物;氨基丙基二甲硅油和氨端二甲硅油等氨基改性硅酮、阳离子改性硅酮、阳离子改性和聚醚改性硅酮、氨基改性和聚醚改性硅酮等硅酮系阳离子性表面活性剂等。作为两性表面活性剂,可以例示:月桂基甜菜碱(月桂基二甲基氨基乙酸甜菜碱)等N-烷基-N,N-二甲基氨基酸甜菜碱;椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂酰胺丙基甜菜碱等脂肪酸酰胺烷基-N,N-二甲基氨基酸甜菜碱;椰油酰两性基乙酸钠、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠等咪唑啉型甜菜碱;烷基二甲基牛磺酸等烷基磺基甜菜碱;烷基二甲基氨基乙醇硫酸酯等硫酸型甜菜碱;烷基二甲基氨基乙醇磷酸酯等磷酸型甜菜碱;磷脂酰胆碱、磷脂酰乙醇胺、磷脂酰丝氨酸、神经鞘磷脂等鞘磷脂、溶血卵磷脂、氢化大豆磷脂、部分氢化大豆磷脂、氢化蛋黄磷脂、部分氢化蛋黄磷脂、氢氧化卵磷脂等磷脂类;硅酮系两性表面活性剂等。作为高分子表面活性剂,可以例示聚乙烯醇、海藻酸钠、淀粉衍生物、黄蓍胶、丙烯酸-甲基丙烯酸烷基酯共聚物;硅酮系各种表面活性剂。
作为高分子-增粘剂-胶凝剂,优选列举:瓜尔胶、刺槐豆胶、榅桲籽胶、角叉菜胶、半乳聚糖、阿拉伯胶、他拉胶、罗望子胶、红藻胶、刺梧桐胶、黄蜀葵胶、卡拉胶、黄蓍胶、果胶、果胶酸和钠盐等盐、海藻酸和钠盐等盐、甘露聚糖;大米、玉米、马铃薯、小麦等的淀粉;黄原胶、葡聚糖、琥珀酰聚糖、凝胶多糖、透明质酸及其盐、汉生胶、支链淀粉、结冷胶、甲壳素、壳聚糖、琼脂、褐藻提取物、硫酸软骨素盐、酪蛋白、胶原蛋白、明胶、白蛋白;甲基纤维素、乙基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羧甲基纤维素及其钠等盐、甲基羟丙基纤维素、纤维素硫酸钠、二烷基二甲基硫酸铵纤维素、结晶纤维素、纤维素末等纤维素及其衍生物;可溶性淀粉、羧甲基淀粉、甲基羟丙基淀粉、甲基淀粉等淀粉系高分子、淀粉羟丙基三甲基氯化铵、淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝等淀粉衍生物;海藻酸钠、海藻酸丙二醇酯等海藻酸衍生物;聚乙烯吡咯烷酮(PVP)、聚乙烯醇(PVA)、乙烯基吡咯烷酮-乙烯基醇共聚物、聚乙烯基甲基醚;聚乙二醇、聚丙二醇、聚氧亚乙基-聚氧亚丙基共聚物;(甲基丙烯酰氧基乙基羧基甜菜碱/甲基丙烯酸烷基酯)共聚物、(丙烯酸(酯)/丙烯酸硬脂酯/甲基丙烯酸乙胺氧化物)共聚物等两性甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物;(二甲硅油/乙烯基二甲硅油)交联聚合物、(丙烯酸烷基酯/二丙酮丙烯酰胺)共聚物、(丙烯酸烷基酯/二丙酮丙烯酰胺)共聚物AMP;聚乙酸乙烯酯部分皂化物、马来酸共聚物;乙烯基吡咯烷酮-甲基丙烯酸二烷基氨基烷基酯共聚物;丙烯酸树脂烷醇胺;聚酯、水分散性聚酯;聚丙烯酰胺;聚丙烯酸乙酯等聚丙烯酸酯共聚物、羧基乙烯基聚合物、聚丙烯酸及其钠盐等盐、丙烯酸-甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物;丙烯酸-甲基丙烯酸烷基酯共聚物;聚季铵盐-10等阳离子化纤维素、聚季铵盐-7等二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵-丙烯酰胺共聚物、聚季铵盐-22等丙烯酸-二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵共聚物、聚季铵盐-39等丙烯酸-二烯丙基二甲基氯化铵-丙烯酰胺共聚物、丙烯酸-阳离子化甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酸-阳离子化甲基丙烯酰胺共聚物、聚季铵盐-47等丙烯酸-丙烯酸甲酯-甲基丙烯酰胺丙基三甲基氯化铵共聚物、氯化甲基丙烯酸胆碱酯聚合物;阳离子化低聚糖、阳离子化葡聚糖、瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵等阳离子化多糖类;聚乙烯亚胺;阳离子聚合物;聚季铵盐-51等2-甲基丙烯酰氧基乙基磷酸胆碱的聚合物和甲基丙烯酸丁酯共聚物等的共聚物;丙烯酸树脂乳液、聚丙烯酸乙酯乳液、聚丙烯酸烷基酯乳液、聚乙酸乙烯酯树脂乳液、天然橡胶胶乳、合成胶乳等高分子乳液;硝基纤维素;聚氨酯类和各种共聚物;各种硅酮类;丙烯酸-硅酮接枝共聚物等硅酮系各种共聚物;各种氟系高分子;12-羟基硬脂酸及其盐;糊精棕榈酸酯、糊精肉豆蔻酸酯等糊精脂肪酸酯;硅酸酐、烟雾状二氧化硅(超微粒硅酸酐)、硅酸铝镁、硅酸钠镁、金属皂、二烷基磷酸金属盐、膨润土、锂蒙脱石、有机改性粘土矿物、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、低聚果糖脂肪酸酯。
作为溶剂-喷射剂类,优选列举乙醇、2-丙醇(异丙醇)、丁醇、异丁醇等低级醇类;丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、二乙二醇、二丙二醇、异戊二醇等二醇类;二乙二醇单乙醚(乙氧基二甘醇)、乙二醇单乙醚、乙二醇单丁醚、三乙二醇单乙醚、二乙二醇二乙醚、二乙二醇二丁醚、丙二醇单乙醚、二丙二醇单乙醚等二醇醚类;乙二醇单乙醚乙酸酯、二乙二醇单乙醚乙酸酯、丙二醇单乙醚乙酸酯等二醇醚酯类;琥珀酸二乙氧基乙酯、乙二醇二琥珀酸酯等二醇酯类;苄基醇、苄氧基乙醇、碳酸亚丙酯、碳酸二烷基酯、丙酮、乙酸乙酯、N-甲基吡咯烷酮;甲苯;氟代烃、新一代氟利昂;LPG、二甲醚、二氧化碳等喷射剂。
作为抗氧化剂,优选列举生育酚(维生素E)、乙酸生育酚酯等生育酚衍生物;BHT、BHA;没食子酸丙酯等没食子酸衍生物;维生素C(抗坏血酸)和/或其衍生物;异抗坏血酸及其衍生物;亚硫酸钠等亚硫酸盐;亚硫酸氢钠等亚硫酸氢盐;硫代硫酸钠等硫代硫酸盐;偏亚硫酸氢盐;硫代牛磺酸、亚牛磺酸;硫代甘油、硫脲、巯基乙酸、半胱氨酸盐酸盐。作为还原剂,优选列举巯基乙酸、半胱氨酸、巯基乙胺等。作为氧化剂,优选列举过氧化氢水、过硫酸铵、溴酸钠、过碳酸等。
作为抗菌剂或防腐剂,优选列举:对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸乙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丁酯等对羟基苯甲酸酯(羟基苯甲酸酯)类;苯氧基乙醇;1,2-戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、1,2-辛二醇等1,2-烷基二醇类;2-乙基己基甘油醚(乙基己基甘油)等烷基甘油醚类;水杨酸;苯甲酸钠;甲基氯异噻唑啉酮、甲基异噻唑啉酮等异噻唑啉酮衍生物;咪唑啉鎓脲;脱氢乙酸及其盐;酚类;三氯生等卤化双酚类、酸酰胺类、季铵盐类;三氯卡班、吡啶硫酮锌、苯扎氯铵、苯索氯铵、山梨酸、氯已定、葡糖酸氯已定、卤卡班、六氯酚、桧木醇;苯酚、异丙基苯酚、甲酚、百里酚、对氯苯酚、苯基苯酚、苯基苯酚钠等其他的苯酚类;苯基乙醇、感光素类、抗菌性沸石、银离子,但作为以防腐为目的的抗菌剂或防腐剂使用的情况下,从化妆品或皮肤外用剂的安全性的观点出发,更优选使用苯氧基乙醇;1,2-戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、1,2-辛二醇等1,2-烷基二醇类;2-乙基己基甘油醚等烷基甘油醚类。
作为螯合剂,优选列举:EDTA、EDTA2Na、EDTA3Na、EDTA4Na等乙底酸盐(乙二胺四乙酸盐);HEDTA3Na等羟乙基乙二胺三乙酸盐;喷替酸盐(二亚乙基三胺五乙酸盐);植酸;羟乙磷酸等膦酸及其钠盐等盐类;草酸钠;聚天冬氨酸、聚谷氨酸等多聚氨基酸类;多磷酸钠、偏磷酸钠、磷酸;柠檬酸钠、柠檬酸、丙氨酸、二羟乙基甘氨酸、葡糖酸、抗坏血酸、琥珀酸、酒石酸。作为pH调节剂-酸-碱,优选列举柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、乳酸、乳酸钠、乙醇酸、琥珀酸、乙酸、乙酸钠、苹果酸、酒石酸、富马酸、磷酸、盐酸、硫酸、单乙醇胺、二乙醇胺、三乙醇胺、异丙醇胺、三异丙醇胺、2-氨基-2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇、2-氨基-2-羟甲基-1,3-丙二醇、精氨酸、氢氧化钠、氢氧化钾、氨水、碳酸胍、碳酸铵。
作为粉体类,优选列举:云母、滑石、高岭土、绢云母、蒙脱石、高岭石、云母、白云母、金云母、合成云母、红云母、黑云母、蛭石、碳酸镁、碳酸钙、硅酸铝、硅酸钡、硅酸钙、硅酸镁、硅酸锶、钨酸金属盐、镁、沸石、硫酸钡、烧制硫酸钙、磷酸钙、氟磷灰石、羟基磷灰石、陶瓷粉、溶润土、蒙脱石、粘土、泥、金属皂(例如、肉豆蔻酸锌、软脂酸钙、硬脂酸铝)、碳酸钙、铁丹、氧化铁黄、氧化铁黑、群青、普鲁士蓝、碳黑、氧化钛、微粒和超微粒氧化钛、氧化锌、微粒和超微粒氧化锌、氧化铝、二氧化硅、烟雾状二氧化硅(超微粒硅酸酐)、云母钛、鱼鳞箔、氮化硼、光致变色颜料、合成氟金云母、微粒复合粉体、金、铝等各种大小、形状的无机粉体、以及利用氢硅酮、环状氢硅酮等硅酮或其他的硅烷或钛偶联剂等各种表面处理剂对它们进行处理而实现了疏水化或亲水化的粉体等无机粉体;淀粉、纤维素、尼龙粉、聚乙烯末、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯末、聚苯乙烯末、苯乙烯与丙烯酸的共聚物树脂粉末、聚酯末、苯并胍胺树脂粉末、聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯-聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯叠层末、聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯-铝-环氧叠层末等、聚氨酯粉末、硅酮粉末、TEFLON(注册商标)粉末等各种大小、形状的有机系粉体和表面处理粉体、有机无机复合粉体。作为无机盐类,优选列举食盐、普通盐、岩盐、海盐、天然盐等含有氯化钠的盐类;氯化钾、氯化铝、氯化钙、氯化镁、盐卤、氯化锌、氯化铵;硫酸钠、硫酸铝、硫酸铝钾(明矾)、硫酸铝铵、硫酸钡、硫酸钙、硫酸钾、硫酸镁、硫酸锌、硫酸铁、硫酸铜;磷酸1Na、磷酸2Na、磷酸3Na等磷酸钠类、磷酸钾类、磷酸钙类、磷酸镁类。
作为紫外线吸收剂,优选列举:对氨基苯甲酸、对氨基苯甲酸单甘油酯、N,N-二丙氧基对氨基苯甲酸乙酯、N,N-二乙氧基对氨基苯甲酸乙酯、N,N-二甲基对氨基苯甲酸乙酯、N,N-二甲基对氨基苯甲酸丁酯、N,N-二甲基对氨基苯甲酸乙酯等苯甲酸系紫外线吸收剂;三甲环己基-N-乙酰基氨茴酸酯等氨茴酸系紫外线吸收剂;水杨酸及其钠盐、水杨酸戊酯、水杨酸薄荷酯、三甲环己基水杨酸酯、水杨酸辛酯、水杨酸苯酯、水杨酸苄酯、水杨酸对异丙醇苯基酯等水杨酸系紫外线吸收剂;肉桂酸辛酯、肉桂酸乙基-4-异丙酯、肉桂酸甲基-2,5-二异丙酯、肉桂酸乙基-2,4-二异丙酯、肉桂酸甲基-2,4-二异丙酯、对甲氧基肉桂酸丙酯、对甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯、对甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯、对甲氧基肉桂酸-2-乙基己基酯(对甲氧基桂皮酸辛酯)、对甲氧基肉桂酸-2-乙氧基乙酯(西诺沙酯)、对甲氧基肉桂酸环己酯、α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸乙酯、α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸-2-乙基己酯(奥克立林)、单-2-乙基己酰-二对甲氧基肉桂酸甘油酯、阿魏酸及其衍生物等桂皮酸系紫外线吸收剂;2,4-二羟基二苯甲酮、2,2′-二羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2,2′-二羟基-4,4′-二甲氧基二苯甲酮、2,2′,4,4′-四羟基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮(羟苯酮-3)、2-羟基-4-甲氧基-4′-甲基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮-5-磺酸盐、4-苯基二苯甲酮、2-乙基己基-4′-苯基-二苯甲酮-2-羧酸酯、2-羟基-4-正辛氧基二苯甲酮、4-羟基-3-羧基二苯甲酮等二苯甲酮系紫外线吸收剂;3-(4′-甲基亚苄基)-d,l-樟脑、3-亚苄基-d,l-樟脑;2-苯基-5-甲基苯并噁唑;2,2′-羟基-5-甲基苯基苯并三唑;2-(2′-羟基-5′-叔辛基苯基)苯并三唑;2-(2′-羟基-5′-甲基苯基苯并三唑;二苄连氮(dibenzalazine);二茴香酰甲烷;5-(3,3-二甲基-2-亚降冰片烯基)-3-戊烷-2-酮;4-叔丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷等二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物;辛基三嗪酮;尿刊酸和尿刊酸乙酯等尿刊酸衍生物;2-(2′-羟基-5′-甲基苯基)苯并三唑、1-(3,4-二甲氧基苯基)-4,4-二甲基-1,3-戊烷二酮、二甲氧基亚苄基二氧代咪唑烷丙酸-2-乙基己酯等乙内酰脲衍生物、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、对苯二亚甲基二樟脑磺酸、甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷、氨茴酸甲酯、芸香苷及其衍生物、谷维素及其衍生物。
作为维生素类及其衍生物类,优选列举:视黄醇、乙酸视黄醇酯、棕榈酸视黄醇酯等维生素A类;硫胺素盐酸盐、硫胺素硫酸盐、核黄素、乙酸核黄素、盐酸吡哆醇、吡哆醇二辛酸酯、吡哆醇二棕榈酸酯、黄素腺嘌呤二核苷酸、氰钴胺素、叶酸类、烟酰胺-烟酸苄基酯等烟酸类、胆碱类等维生素B族类;抗坏血酸及其钠等盐等维生素C类;维生素D;α、β、γ、δ-生育酚等维生素E类;泛酸、生物素等其他维生素类;抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠盐和抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁盐等抗坏血酸磷酸酯盐、抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯-硬脂酸抗坏血酸酯-棕榈酸抗坏血酸酯-二棕榈酸抗坏血酸酯等抗坏血酸脂肪酸酯、抗坏血酸乙酯醚等抗坏血酸烷基醚、抗坏血酸-2-葡糖苷等抗坏血酸葡糖苷及其脂肪酸酯、磷酸生育酚抗坏血酸酯等抗坏血酸衍生物;烟酸生育酚酯、乙酸生育酚酯、亚油酸生育酚酯、阿魏酸生育酚酯、生育酚磷酸酯等生育酚衍生物等维生素衍生物、生育三烯酚、其他各种维生素衍生物类。
作为消炎剂-抗炎剂,优选列举甘草酸及其衍生物、甘草次酸衍生物、水杨酸衍生物、桧木醇、愈创奥、尿囊素、吲哚美辛、氧化锌、乙酸氢化可的松、强的松、盐酸苯海拉明、马来酸氯苯那敏;桃叶提取物、蓬叶提取物等植物提取物。作为生发用药剂-血液循环促进剂-刺激剂,优选列举日本獐牙菜提取物、辣椒酊、生姜酊、生姜提取物、斑蝥酊等植物提取物-酊类;辣椒素、壬酸香草酰胺、姜油酮、鱼石脂、单宁酸、龙脑、环扁桃酯、桂利嗪、妥拉唑啉、乙酰胆碱、维拉帕米、千金藤素、γ-谷维素、千金藤素、维生素E和烟酸生育酚酯-乙酸生育酚酯等衍生物、γ-谷维素、烟酸和烟酸酰胺-烟酸苄基酯-肌醇六烟酸酯、烟醇等衍生物、尿囊素、感光素301、感光素401、卡普氯铵、十五烷酸单甘油酯、黄烷酮醇衍生物、豆甾醇或豆甾烷醇及其糖苷、米诺地尔。作为激素类,优选列举雌二醇、雌酮、炔雌醇、可的松、氢化可的松、强的松等。作为抗皱剂、抗老化剂、紧致剂、冷感剂、温感剂、创伤治愈促进剂、刺激缓和剂、镇痛剂、细胞活化剂等其他的药效剂,可以举出:视黄醇类、视黄酸类、视黄酸生育酚酯;乳酸、乙醇酸、葡糖酸、果酸、水杨酸及其糖苷-酯化物等衍生物、羟基癸酸、长链α-羟基脂肪酸、长链α-羟基脂肪酸胆甾醇酯等α-或β-羟基酸类及其衍生物类;γ-氨基丁酸、γ-氨基-β-羟基丁酸;肉碱;肌肽;肌酸;神经酰胺类、鞘氨醇类;咖啡因、黄嘌呤等及其衍生物;辅酶Q10、胡萝卜素、西红柿红素、虾青素、叶黄素、α-硫辛酸、铂纳米胶体、富勒烯类等抗氧化-活性氧去除剂;儿茶素类;槲皮素等黄酮类;异黄酮类;没食子酸和酯糖衍生物;单宁、芝麻素、原花青素、绿原酸、苹果多酚等多酚类;芸香苷和糖苷等衍生物;橘皮苷和糖苷等衍生物;木酚素糖苷;光甘草定、光甘草素、甘草苷、异甘草苷等甘草提取物相关物质;乳铁蛋白;姜烯酚、姜酚;薄荷醇、樟脑、雪松醇等香料物质及其衍生物;辣椒素、香草醛等及其衍生物;二乙基甲苯酰胺等昆虫趋避剂;生理活性物质与环糊精类的复合体。
作为植物-动物-微生物提取物类,优选列举:香根鸢尾提取物、滨海当归提取物、罗汉柏提取物、石刁柏提取物、鳄梨提取物、粗齿绣球提取物、甜扁桃提取物、蜀葵提取物、山金车提取物、芦荟提取物、杏果提取物、杏仁提取物、银杏提取物、茵陈篙提取物、茴香提取物、姜黄提取物、乌龙茶提取物、熊果提取物、野蔷薇提取物、狭叶松果菊叶提取物、延命草提取物、黄芩提取物、黄檗提取物、黄连提取物、大麦提取物、人参提取物、小连翘提取物、野芝麻提取物、红芒柄花提取物、豆瓣菜提取物、甜橙提取物、海水干燥物、海藻提取物、柿子叶提取物、火棘提取物、水解弹性蛋白、水解小麦末、水解蚕丝、野葛提取物、洋甘菊提取物、油溶性洋甘菊提取物、胡萝卜提取物、茵陈篙提取物、燕麦提取物、洛神花提取物、甘草提取物、油溶性甘草提取物、猕猴桃提取物、地黄提取物、木耳提取物、鸡纳提取物、黄瓜提取物、毛泡桐叶提取物、鸟苷、番石榴提取物、苦参提取物、栀子提取物、维氏熊竹提取物、苦参提取物、核桃提取物、栗子提取物、葡萄柚提取物、葡萄叶铁线莲提取物、黑米提取物、黑糖提取物、黑醋、小球藻提取物、桑树提取物、黄龙胆提取物、老鹳草提取物、红茶提取物、酵母提取物、厚朴提取物、咖啡提取物、牛蒡提取物、大米提取物、大米发酵提取物、发酵米糠提取物、大米胚芽油、聚合草提取物、胶原蛋白、越桔提取物、细辛提取物、柴胡提取物、脐带提取液、番红花提取物、药鼠尾草提取物、肥皂草提取物、细竹提取物、野山楂提取物、芫荽提取物、山椒提取物、香菇提取物、地黄提取物、紫根提取物、紫苏提取物、椴树提取物、榆绣线菊提取物、孪叶苏木提取物、芍药提取物、生姜提取物、菖蒲根提取物、桦树提取物、银耳提取物、问荆提取物、甜叶菊提取物、甜叶菊发酵物、西河柳提取物、洋常春藤提取物、锐刺山楂提取物、西洋接骨木提取物、欧蓍草提取物、辣薄荷提取物、鼠尾草提取物、欧锦葵提取物、川芎提取物、日本獐牙菜提取物、桑根皮提取物、大黄提取物、大豆提取物、大枣提取物、麝香草提取物、蒲公英提取物、地衣类提取物、茶提取物、丁香提取物、白茅提取物、陈皮提取物、茶树油、甜茶提取物、辣椒提取物、当归提取物、金盏花提取物、桃仁提取物、橙皮提取物、鱼腥草提取物、西红柿提取物、纳豆提取物、胡萝卜提取物、蒜提取物、狗牙蔷薇提取物、玫瑰茄提取物、麦冬提取物、莲提取物、欧芹提取物、桦树提取物、蜂蜜、金缕梅提取物、药用墙草提取物、香茶菜提取物、没药醇、扁柏提取物、双歧杆菌提取物、枇杷提取物、款冬提取物、蜂斗叶提取物、茯苓提取物、假叶树提取物、葡萄提取物、葡萄籽提取物、蜂胶、丝瓜提取物、红花提取物、辣薄荷提取物、阔叶椴提取物、牡丹提取物、啤酒花提取物、玫瑰花提取物、松树提取物、欧洲七叶树提取物、水芭蕉提取物、无患子提取物、香蜂花提取物、海蕴提取物、桃提取物、矢车菊提取物、桉树提取物、虎耳草提取物、香橙提取物、百合提取物、薏苡仁提取物、魁蒿提取物、薰衣草提取物、绿茶提取物、蛋壳膜提取物、苹果提取物、路易波士茶提取物、赤芝提取物、莴苣提取物、柠檬提取物、连翘提取物、紫云英提取物、玫瑰提取物、迷迭香提取物、白花春黄菊提取物、蜂王浆提取物、地榆提取物等提取物。
作为止痒剂,可以例示盐酸苯海拉明、马来酸氯苯那敏、樟脑、P物质抑制剂等。作为角质剥离-溶解剂,可以例示水杨酸、硫磺、间苯二酚、硫化硒、吡哆醇等。作为抑汗剂,可以例示氯化羟铝、氯化铝、氧化锌、对羟基苯磺酸锌等。作为清凉剂,可以例示薄荷醇、水杨酸甲酯等。作为收敛剂,可以例示柠檬酸、酒石酸、乳酸、硫酸铝钾、单宁酸等。作为酶类,可以例示超氧化物歧化酶、过氧化氢酶、氯化溶菌酶、脂肪酶、木瓜蛋白酶、胰酶、蛋白酶等。作为核酸类,优选列举核糖核酸及其盐、脱氧核糖核酸及其盐、三磷酸腺苷二钠。
作为香料,优选举出乙酰基柏木烯、戊基肉桂醛、烯丙基戊基乙醇酸酯、β-紫罗兰酮、龙涎酮、异丁基喹啉、鸢尾油、鸢尾酮、吲哚、依兰油、十一烷醛、十一烯醛、γ-十一烷酸内酯、草蒿脑、丁子香酚、橡苔、红没药树脂提取物、甜橙油、丁子香酚、橙花素、佳乐麝香(GALAXOLIDE)、香芹酚、L-香芹酮、樟脑、胡萝卜酮、胡萝卜籽油、丁香油、肉桂酸甲酯、香叶醇、香叶腈、乙酸异冰片酯、乙酸香叶酯、原乙酸二甲基苄基酯、乙酸苏合香酯、乙酸柏木酯、乙酸萜品醇酯、乙酸对叔丁基环己酯、乙酸岩兰草醇酯、乙酸苄基酯、乙酸芳樟酯、水杨酸异戊酯、水杨酸苄基酯、檀木油、檀香醇、兔耳草醛、环十五内酯、二氢茉莉酮酸甲酯、二氢月桂烯醇、茉莉精油、茉莉内酯、cis-茉莉酮、柠檬醛、香茅醇、香茅醛、桂皮油、1,8-桉树脑、肉桂醛、苏合香树脂提取物、雪松油、雪松烯、雪松醇、芹菜籽油、百里香油、二氢大马酮、大马酮、百里酚、晚香玉精油、癸醛、癸内酯、萜品醇、γ-萜品烯、女贞醛、橙花醇、壬醛、2,6-壬二烯醛、壬内酯、广藿香醇、香草精油、香草醛、罗勒油、广藿香油、羟基香茅醛、α-蒎烯、薄荷酮、苯乙醇、苯乙醛、橙油、己基肉桂醛、cis-3-己烯醇、秘鲁香脂、香根草油、香根草醇、胡椒薄荷油、胡椒油、胡椒醛、佛手柑油、苯甲酸苄基酯、龙脑、没药树脂状物、麝香酮、甲基壬基乙醛、γ-甲基紫罗兰酮、薄荷醇、L-薄荷醇、L-薄荷酮、桉树油、β-紫罗兰酮、酸橙油、薰衣草油、D-柠檬烯、芳樟醇、新铃兰醛、铃兰醛、柠檬油、玫瑰精油、玫瑰醚、玫瑰油、迷迭香油、各种精油等合成香料和天然香料以及各种调合香料。
作为色素-着色剂-染料-颜料,优选举出褐色201号、黑色401号、紫色201号、紫色401号、蓝色1号、蓝色2号、蓝色201号、蓝色202号、蓝色203号、蓝色204号、蓝色205号、蓝色403号、蓝色404号、绿色201号、绿色202号、绿色204号、绿色205号、绿色3号、绿色401号、绿色402号、红色102号、红色104-1号、红色105-1号、红色106号、红色2号、红色201号、红色202号、红色203号、红色204号、红色205号、红色206号、红色207号、红色208号、红色213号、红色214号、红色215号、红色218号、红色219号、红色220号、红色221号、红色223号、红色225号、红色226号、红色227号、红色228号、红色230-1号、红色230-2号、红色231号、红色232号、红色3号、红色401号、红色404号、红色405号、红色501号、红色502号、红色503号、红色504号、红色505号、红色506号、橙色201号、橙色203号、橙色204号、橙色205号、橙色206号、橙色207号、橙色401号、橙色402号、橙色403号、黄色201号、黄色202-1号、黄色202-2号、黄色203号、黄色204号、黄色205号、黄色4号、黄色401号、黄色402号、黄色403-1号、黄色404号、黄色405号、黄色406号、黄色407号、黄色5号等法定色素;酸性红14等其他酸性染料;Arianor Sienna Brown、Arianor Madder Red、Arianor Steel Blue、Arianor StrawYellow等碱性染料;HC Yellow 2、HC Yellow 5、HC Red 3、4-羟丙基氨基-3-硝基苯酚、N,N′-双(2-羟基乙基)-2-硝基对苯二胺、HC Blue 2、Basic Blue 26等硝基染料;分散染料;二氧化钛、氧化锌等无机白色颜料;氧化铁(铁丹)、钛酸铁等无机红色系颜料;γ-氧化铁等无机褐色系颜料;氧化铁黄、黄土等无机黄色系颜料;氧化铁黑、低价氧化钛等无机黑色系颜料;锰紫、钴紫等无机紫色系颜料;氧化铬、氢氧化铬、钛酸钴等无机绿色系颜料;群青、普鲁士蓝等无机蓝色系颜料;氧化钛包覆云母、氧化钛包覆氯氧化铋、氧化钛包覆滑石、着色氧化钛包覆云母、氯氧化铋、鱼鳞箔等珠光颜料;铝粉、铜粉、金等金属粉末颜料;表面处理无机和金属粉末颜料;红色201号、红色202号、红色204号、红色205号、红色220号、红色226号、红色228号、红色405号、橙色203号、橙色204号、黄色205号、黄色401号、蓝色404号、红色3号、红色104号、红色106号、红色227号、红色230号、红色401号、红色505号、橙色205号、黄色4号、黄色5号、黄色202号、黄色203号、绿色3号、蓝色1号等的锆、钡或铝色淀等有机颜料;表面处理有机颜料;虾青素、茜素等蒽醌类、花青素、β-胡萝卜素、茶色素、辣椒黄素、查耳酮、红花素、槲皮素、藏花素、叶绿素、姜黄素、胭脂虫红、紫草素等萘醌类、胭脂素、黄酮类、甜菜色素、指甲花、血红蛋白、番茄红素、核黄素、芸香苷等天然色素-染料;对苯二胺、甲苯-2,5-二胺、邻氨基苯酚、间氨基苯酚或对氨基苯酚、间苯二胺、5-氨基-2-甲基苯酚、间苯二酚、1-萘酚、2,6-二氨基吡啶等及其盐等氧化染料中间体和成色剂;吲哚啉等自动氧化型染料;二羟基丙酮。
作为水,优选举出普通水、精制水,除此之外,还优选举出硬水、软水、天然水、海洋深层水、电解碱离子水、电解酸性离子水、离子水、团簇水。
除了这些之外,还能够以公知的组合以及配合比、配合量含有在化妆品原料基准、化妆品种别配合成分标准、日本化妆品工业联合会成分表示名称清单、INCI词典(TheInternational Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook,国际化妆品成分词典和手册)、医药部外品原料标准、日本药局方、医药品添加物标准、食品添加物公定书等中记载的成分、以及在国际专利分类IPC属于A61K7和A61K8的类别的日本国和各外国专利公报和专利公开公报(包括公表公报、再公表)中记载的成分等、公知的化妆品成分、医药品成分、食品成分等。
作为本发明的化妆品的种类,可以列举毛发化妆品、基础化妆品、彩妆化妆品、芳香化妆品、身体化妆品、软膏等皮肤外用剂等。从发挥本发明效果的观点出发,特别优选用于毛发用化妆品、基础化妆品。本发明的化妆品可以按照常规方法制造。
对于本发明的化妆品的种类进行更详细的说明,作为毛发化妆品,优选举出:洗发油、洗发膏、护理型洗发水、去屑洗发水、染发用洗发水、洗护一体型洗发水等洗发水;护发素、焗油膏、发膜、发用喷雾等护发素;头发泡沫、摩丝、整发喷雾、发蜡、发凝胶、发霜、水润滑脂、定型水、润发脂、头油等定型剂;染发水、生发剂、护发液、发笔、碎发保护剂、头油、烫发用剂、直烫剂、氧化染发剂、头发脱色剂、染发前焗油膏、染发后焗油膏、烫发前焗油膏、烫发后焗油膏、临时染发剂、育发剂。
作为基础化妆品,优选举出:柔肤化妆水、收敛化妆水、清洁用化妆水、多层式化妆水等化妆水;润肤乳、保湿乳、乳液、滋润液、滋润乳、皮肤保湿乳、保湿乳液、按摩乳、卸妆乳、保护乳液、防晒乳、防晒液、UV防护乳、阳光隔离乳、上妆乳、角质磨砂乳、肘部乳液、手部乳液、身体乳等乳液;润肤霜、营养霜、滋润霜、雪花膏、保湿霜、晚霜、按摩霜、卸妆膏、打底霜、隔离霜、上妆前膏、阳光隔离霜、防晒膏、除毛膏、除臭膏、剃须膏、角质软化膏等膏;保湿凝胶等凝胶;保湿精华、美白精华、防紫外线精华等精华;脂质体美容液、脂质体化妆水等脂质体化妆品类;剥离面膜、粉末面膜、水洗面膜、油面膜、清洁面膜等面膜(pack)-面膜(mask)类;卸妆泡沫、卸妆膏、卸妆乳、卸妆水、卸妆凝胶、卸妆油、卸妆面膜、洗粉、洁面粉等洁面料;化妆皂、透明皂、药用皂、液体皂、剃须皂、合成化妆皂等皂。
作为彩妆化妆品,优选举出蜜粉-散粉类、粉底类、口红类、唇彩、腮红类、眼线、睫毛膏、眼影、眉黛、眉笔、指甲油、卸甲水、护甲水。
作为芳香化妆品,优选举出香水、香精、淡香精、香薰、淡香水、古龙水、香水膏、香粉、香水皂、身体水、浴油。
作为身体化妆品,优选举出沐浴露等身体清洁料、除臭水、除臭粉、除臭喷雾、除臭棒等防臭化妆品、脱色剂、脱毛-除毛剂、沐浴剂、驱虫喷雾等防虫剂。
另外,作为皮肤外用剂,可以以软膏剂、贴附剂、洗剂、擦剂、液态涂布剂等剂型使用。另外,也可以用于牙膏、漱口水等口腔内化妆品。
作为本发明的化妆品或皮肤外用剂的剂型,优选举出水包油(O/W)型、油包水(W/O)型、W/O/W型、O/W/O型等乳化型化妆品、油性化妆品、固体化妆品、液态化妆品、膏状化妆品、棒状化妆品、挥发性油型化妆品、粉状化妆品、啫喱状化妆品、凝胶状化妆品、膏状化妆品、乳化高分子型化妆品、片状化妆品、雾状化妆品、喷雾型化妆品等剂型。
以上,对于本发明的实施方式进行了说明,但本发明不受这些例子的任何限定,在不脱离本发明的宗旨范围内可以以各种形态实施。
实施例
以下,基于实施例,对本发明的实施方式进行更具体的说明,但本发明不限于此。
(制造例1)
菊粉组合物的制备
将原料砂糖溶液的浓度调整至45%,在55℃添加菊粉合成酶,缓慢搅拌进行2天的酶反应。其中,在反应第24小时追加原料溶液并持续反应,在砂糖的剩余量以糖组成计达到10%左右的时刻结束反应。反应结束液通过加热使酶热改性,经过利用活性碳过滤进行的脱色工序、利用反渗透膜进行的低分子糖类的去除工序、利用离子交换树脂进行的脱盐工序来精制,通过喷雾干燥得到纯度97%以上的粉末。对这样得到的酶合成菊粉的聚合度进行分析,平均聚合度为16,聚合度分布为5~29,聚合度5~29的菊粉的占有率为96.2%。
菊粉组合物的平均聚合度
在本发明中在以下的条件下测定平均聚合度。作为标准物质,使用植物来源的菊粉ORAFTI公司的RAFTILINE ST(平均聚合度11)和RAFTILINE HP(平均聚合度22)。
HPLC条件
色谱柱:TOSOH TSK-GEL G3000PWXL
(7.8×300mm)
溶剂:水
流速:0.5mL/分钟
温度:50℃
检出器:差示折射计
菊粉组合物的聚合度分布
本发明中菊粉组合物的聚合度的分布状态使用离子色谱分析装置进行测定。制造例1中得到的本发明的菊粉组合物(FUJI FF)和代表性的菊粉制品的聚合度的分布状态示于图1(摘自非专利文献1)。由图1的结果可知,植物来源的菊粉(菊芋菊粉、菊苣菊粉、大丽花菊粉)中均含有聚合度30以上的菊粉,而本发明的菊粉组合物(FUJI FF)不含聚合度30以上的菊粉。另外,作为市售菊粉的RAFTILINE HP(ORAFTI公司制)和RAFTILINE ST(ORAFTI公司制)也与本发明的菊粉组合物(FUJI FF)有很大差异。RAFTILINE是将菊苣来源的菊粉以聚合度区分的。
<溶解性评价>
将制造例1的菊粉组合物以表1的组分溶解于水中,基于以下评价基准对初始溶解性和在5℃/保管1个月后的稳定性进行评价。作为比较,使用菊苣菊粉。将结果一并记入表1。
○:看不到结晶析出
△:仅见少许结晶析出
×:可见较多结晶析出
[表1]
重量%
实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 实施例4 | 实施例5 | 比较例1 | |
制造例1的菊粉组合物 | 5 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | - |
菊苣菊粉 | - | - | - | - | - | 5 |
银耳多糖体 | - | - | 0.005 | - | - | - |
透明质酸Na | - | - | - | 0.005 | - | - |
黄原胶 | - | - | - | - | 0.005 | - |
精制水 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 |
初始溶解性 | ○ | ○ | ○ | ○ | ○ | × |
保管稳定性 | ○ | △ | ○ | ○ | ○ | × |
由表1的结果可知,与聚合度分布宽的菊苣菊粉相比,本发明的菊粉组合物的初始溶解性、保管稳定性均良好。关于保管稳定性,在溶解有10重量%的本发明菊粉组合物的实施例2中仅见少量析出,但通过并用银耳多糖体、透明质酸、黄原胶能够提升保管稳定性。
<使用感的评价>
使用制造例1的菊粉组合物制作表2的组成的化妆水。作为比较,制作使用了菊苣菊粉的化妆水和未配合菊粉的化妆水。对于所得到的化妆水,基于以下评价基准对涂布时的黏腻感和干燥后的爽滑感这2项进行评价。结果基于5名测试员的评分的平均分,按照以下判定基准表示。将结果记载于表2。
<涂布时的黏腻感>
完全感觉不到:5分
不太感觉得到:4分
一般:3分
稍微感觉得到:2分
明显感觉得到:1分
<干燥后的爽滑感>
明显感觉得到:5分
稍微感觉得到:4分
一般:3分
不太感觉得到:2分
完全感觉不到:1分
判定基准
[评分的平均分]:[判定]
4.5以上:◎
3.5以上~低于4.5:○
1.5以上~低于3.5:△
低于1.5:×
[表2]
重量%
实施例6 | 实施例7 | 比较例2 | 比较例3 | 比较例4 | |
制造例1的菊粉组合物 | 5 | 0.5 | - | - | - |
菊苣菊粉 | - | - | 5 | 0.5 | - |
银耳多糖体 | - | - | - | - | - |
透明质酸Na | - | - | - | - | - |
甘油 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
苯氧基乙醇 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.3 |
精制水 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 |
涂布时的黏腻感 | ◎ | ○ | △ | × | × |
干燥后的爽滑感 | ◎ | ○ | △ | × | × |
由表2的结果可知,与聚合度分布宽的菊苣菊粉相比,本发明的菊粉组合物的使用感优异。并且,在未配合本发明的菊粉组合物的比较例4的化妆水中,由于甘油的影响,黏腻感、爽滑感均为较差的结果,但通过配合本发明的菊粉组合物,能够降低这样的多元醇的不好的使用感。
<改善泡沫品质评价>
使用制造例1的菊粉组合物制作表3的组成的皮肤清洁剂。作为比较,制作使用了菊苣菊粉的皮肤清洁剂和未配合菊粉的皮肤清洁剂。对于所得到的皮肤清洁剂,对泡沫的细腻程度、泡沫的弹性、清洁后的爽滑感、清洁后的润泽感进行评价。作为评价方法,对于泡沫的细腻程度利用显微镜进行确认,基于以下评价基准进行评价。对于泡沫的弹性、使用后的爽滑感、使用后的润泽感,通过感官以以下评价基准进行评价,基于5名测试员的评分的平均分,以以下判定基准表示。将结果记载于表3。
<泡沫的细腻程度>
非常细腻:◎
细腻:○
稍微细腻:△
不细腻:×
<泡沫的弹性>
明显感觉得到:5分
稍微感觉得到:4分
一般:3分
不太感觉得到:2分
完全感觉不到:1分
<清洁后的爽滑感>
明显感觉得到:5分
稍微感觉得到:4分
一般:3分
不太感觉得到:2分
完全感觉不到:1分
<清洁后的润泽感>
明显感觉得到:5分
稍微感觉得到:4分
一般:3分
不太感觉得到:2分
完全感觉不到:1分
判定基准
[评分的平均分]:[判定]
4.5以上:◎
3.5以上~低于4.5:○
1.5以上~低于3.5:△
低于1.5:×
[表3]
重量%
实施例8 | 实施例9 | 实施例10 | 实施例11 | 比较例5 | 比较例6 | 比较例7 | |
制造例1的菊粉组合物 | 5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | - | - | - |
菊苣菊粉 | - | - | - | - | 5 | 0.5 | - |
银耳多糖体 | - | - | 0.05 | - | - | - | - |
透明质酸Na | - | - | - | 0.05 | - | - | - |
甘油 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
月桂酸K | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
肉豆蔻酸K | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
月桂酰胺丙基甜菜碱(30%) | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 |
精制水 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 | 余量 |
泡沫的细腻程度 | ◎ | ○ | ◎ | ◎ | △ | × | × |
泡沫的弹性 | ◎ | ○ | ◎ | ◎ | △ | × | × |
清洁后的爽滑感 | ◎ | ○ | ◎ | ○ | △ | × | × |
清洁后的润泽感 | ◎ | ○ | ◎ | ◎ | ◎ | ○ | × |
由表3的结果可知,与聚合度分布宽的菊苣菊粉相比,本发明的菊粉组合物的泡沫品质改善效果优异,并且,清洁后的爽滑感和润泽感等使用感也优异。另外,通过并用银耳多糖体、透明质酸,能够提升泡沫品质的改善效果。
<促进产生表皮透明质酸评价>
在以表4所记载的各浓度添加本发明的菊粉组合物的培养基中,培育正常人类表皮细胞48小时后,利用ELISA法将培养基上清液中的透明质酸量定量。根据定量结果,算出将在未添加本发明的菊粉组合物的培养基中培养时的透明质酸量作为100%时的透明质酸产生促进率,将结果一并记载于表4。
[表4]
由表4的结果可知,本发明的菊粉组合物与无添加相比,透明质酸量明显地增加,具有优异的透明质酸产生促进作用。
使用本发明的菊粉组合物,制作以下记载的预混组合物和化妆品。所得到的化妆品具有优异的保湿性,黏腻得到降低,赋予了爽滑的使用感,另外在清洁剂中泡沫品质得到了改善。
(实施例12)
预混组合物
(制备方法)
将A部加温至50℃,使其溶解。将B部溶解至均匀。在常温边搅拌边缓慢添加B部,制成均匀液体。
(实施例13)
化妆水
(制备方法)
将B部混合制成粘性液体。将A部加温至大约80℃,均匀溶解。边搅拌边向A部中缓慢添加B部,冷却至40℃后,添加C部、D部,制成均匀液体。
(实施例14)
化妆水
(制备方法)
混合A部,边搅拌边缓慢向B部中添加。再添加预先混合好的C部、D部,制成均匀液体。
(实施例15)
保湿化妆水
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约80℃,均匀混合。添加B部,制成均匀液体。
(实施例16)
保湿化妆水
(制备方法)
将A部在大约80℃均匀溶解,添加B部,制成均匀液体。
(实施例17)
凝胶化妆水
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约70℃,使其均匀分散。混合B部,充分搅拌至均匀后,加温至大约70℃。将B部加入A部中,在大约70℃利用均质机进行搅拌,冷却至大约40℃,添加C部。
(实施例18)
透明凝胶
(制备方法)
对A部进行搅拌,制成均匀液体。混合B部,制成粘性液体。向A部中加入B部、C部,使其均匀。
(实施例19)
乳液
(制备方法)
将A部、E部分别加温至大约70℃,使其均匀溶解。对B部进行搅拌,制成粘性液体。将C部加温至大约70℃,使其均匀分散。对C部边利用均化机搅拌边加入A部后,边搅拌边添加E部。在大约50℃加入D部、B部,进行搅拌均匀溶解。
(实施例20)
乳液
(制备方法)
将A部、B部、D部分别混合,加温至大约70℃,使其均匀溶解、分散。将C部混合,搅拌制成粘性液体。将A部在均化机中边搅拌边加入B部后,加入D部进行乳化。冷却后,在大约50℃加入C部、E部,搅拌冷却至大约40℃。
(实施例21)
护肤霜
(制备方法)
将A部、B部、D部分别混合,加温至大约70℃,使其均匀溶解、分散。混合C部,搅拌制成粘性液体。将A部在均化机中边搅拌边加入B部后,加入D部进行乳化。冷却后,在大约50℃加入C部、E部,搅拌冷却至大约40℃。
(实施例22)
护肤霜
(制备方法)
将A部、C部分别混合,加温至大约70℃,使其均匀溶解、分散。混合B部,搅拌制成粘性液体。混合D部,制成均匀液体。将C部在均化器中边搅拌边加入A部进行乳化。冷却,在大约50℃加入B部、D部,搅拌冷却至大约40℃。
(实施例23)
护肤霜
(制备方法)
将A部、C部分别混合,加温至大约70℃,使其均匀溶解、分散。混合B部,搅拌制成粘性液体。混合D部,制成均匀液体。将C部在均化器中边搅拌边加入A部进行乳化。冷却,在大约50℃加入B部、D部,搅拌冷却至大约40℃。
(实施例24)
护肤霜
(制备方法)
将A部、B部、D部分别混合,加温至大约70℃,使其均匀溶解、分散。混合C部,搅拌制成粘性液体。将A部在均化机中边搅拌边加入B部后,加入D部进行乳化。冷却,在大约50℃加入C部、E部,搅拌冷却至大约40℃。
(实施例25)
护肤霜
(制备方法)
将A部、B部、D部分别混合,加温至大约70℃,使其均匀溶解、分散。混合C部,搅拌制成粘性液体。混合E部,制成均匀液体。将A部在均化机中边搅拌边加入B部后,加入D部进行乳化。冷却,在大约50℃加入C部、E部,搅拌冷却至大约40℃。
(实施例26)
手霜
(制备方法)
将B部加温至大约70℃使其溶解。在另外的容器中放入A部,加温至大约80℃使其溶解。在B部中边利用均化器搅拌边加入A部,进行乳化。乳化后,冷却至大约40℃后,加入C部,均匀混合。
(实施例27)
手霜
(制备方法)
将B部溶解后,加入A部,加温至大约70℃(E部)。使C部达到大约70℃。向E部中边搅拌边加入C部,利用均化器搅拌大约3分钟进行混合。冷却至大约40℃后,加入混合后的D部,均匀混合。
(实施例28)
手霜
(制备方法)
将B部、C部分别加温至大约80℃使其溶解。在另外的容器中放入A部,加温至100~120℃,使其透明胶凝化后,冷却至80℃。在A部中边搅拌边加入B部,再加入C部进行乳化。冷却至大约40℃后,加入混合后的D部,均匀混合。
(实施例29)
乳液
(制备方法)
分别取A部~C部,加温至大约70℃,各自均匀混合。在A部中边利用均化机搅拌边缓慢加入B部后,在大约70℃加入C部进行乳化。冷却至大约40℃后,加入混合后的D部,均匀混合。
(实施例30)
凝胶化妆水
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约70℃,使其均匀分散。混合B部,充分搅拌至均匀后加温至大约70℃。向A部中加入B部,在大约70℃利用均质机进行搅拌,冷却至大约40℃。加入混合后的C部,均匀混合。
(实施例31)
卸妆凝胶
(制备方法)
将A部、B部分别加温至大约80℃溶解。混合后,加温至大约80℃。边搅拌边向A部中缓慢加入B部,混合后冷却至40℃。加入C部,均匀混合。
(实施例32)
卸妆膏
(制备方法)
将A部、B部分别加温至大约80℃溶解。混合后,加温至大约80℃。边搅拌边向A部中缓慢加入B部,混合后冷却至40℃。加入C部,均匀混合。
(实施例33)
洁面泡沫
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约80℃溶解。将B部加温至大约80℃。边搅拌边向A部中缓慢加入B部,混合后冷却至40℃。加入C部,均匀混合。
(实施例34)
洁面泡沫
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约80℃溶解。将B部加温至大约80℃。边搅拌边向A部中缓慢加入B部,混合后冷却至40℃。加入C部,均匀混合。
(实施例35)
沐浴露
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约80℃均匀搅拌混合。冷却至大约40℃,加入B部,均匀混合。
(实施例36)
沐浴露
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约80℃均匀搅拌混合。冷却至大约40℃,加入B部,均匀混合。
(实施例37)
无硅酮洗发水
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约80℃,均匀搅拌混合。冷却至大约40℃,加入B部,均匀混合。
(实施例38)
洗手皂
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约80℃使其溶解。向A部中加入B部,加温至大约80℃,使其均匀溶解。冷却至大约40℃,加入C部,使其均匀。
(实施例39)
免冲洗头发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将C部均匀分散,加温至大约80℃。之后将A部加温至大约80℃使其溶解。将C部边搅拌边加入至A部,均匀混合后,冷却至大约40℃。之后,加入B部,均匀混合。
(实施例40)
免冲洗头发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将B部加温至大约80℃使其溶解。之后将A部加温至大约80℃使其溶解。将D部分散,制成粘性液体。将A部边搅拌边加入至B部,均匀混合后,冷却至大约40℃。之后加入C部、D部、E部,均匀混合。
(实施例41)
免冲洗头皮/头发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约50℃使其溶解。之后将B部均匀分散,制成粘性液体。将A部边搅拌边加入B部中,均匀混合。之后加入C部、D部,均匀混合。
(实施例42)
头发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将B部加温至大约80℃使其溶解。在另外的容器中加入A部,加温使其溶解。向A部中缓慢加入B部,均匀混合。在大约50℃将C部、D部边搅拌边添加,使其均匀。
(实施例43)
头发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将A部以大约80℃均匀混合。将另取的B部加温至大约60℃使其均匀。向A部中边搅拌边缓慢添加B部,均匀混合后,冷却至大约50℃。再加入C部、D部,均匀混合。
(实施例44)
无硅酮头发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将A部以大约80℃均匀混合。将另取的B部加温至大约60℃,使其均匀。向A部中边搅拌边缓慢加入B部,均匀混合后,冷却至大约50℃。再加入C部均匀混合。
(实施例45)
洗发水
(制备方法)
将B部加温至大约80℃使其均匀溶解。在另外的容器中取A部,加温使其溶解。向A部中缓慢加入B部,均匀混合,在大约60℃加入C部。冷却至大约40℃,加入D部,均匀混合。
(实施例46)
洗发水
(制备方法)
将A部以大约80℃均匀混合。将另取的B部加温至大约60℃,使其均匀。向A部中边搅拌边缓慢加入B部,均匀混合后,冷却至大约50℃。再加入C部均匀混合。
(实施例47)
头发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将A部、B部分别加温至大约80℃,分别均匀混合。向A部中边搅拌缓慢加入B部,均匀混合后冷却(D部)。向D部中加入C部后均匀混合。
(实施例48)
免洗(leave-on)头发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将C部加温至大约80℃使其溶解。接着将A部加温至大约80℃使其溶解。将C部边搅拌边加入至A部,均匀混合后,冷却至大约40℃。之后,加入B部、D部,均匀混合。
(实施例49)
摩丝
(制备方法)
混合以上成分,将所得到的基质与LPG以基质∶LPG=92∶8的比例混合,制成喷射型摩丝。
(实施例50)
定型乳
(制备方法)
将A部、B部分别以大约80℃混合。将B部加入至A部中进行乳化,冷却至大约60℃后,添加C部。冷却至大约40℃,与D部混合,使其均匀。
(实施例51)
染发焗油膏
(制备方法)
将预先均匀混合的A部添加至B部中,加温至大约80℃使其溶解(F部)。在另外的容器中将D部加温至大约80℃使其溶解。向F部中边搅拌边缓慢加入D部并均匀混合后,将其骤冷(G部)。向达到大约40℃的G部中加入C部、E部,使其均匀。
(实施例52)
临时染发剂(hair manicure)
(制备方法)
将A部、C部分别混合,使其均匀。向B部中边搅拌边加入C部,均匀混合后,在大约60℃加入A部,均匀混合。冷却至大约40℃,加入D部,均匀混合。
(实施例53)
含水唇彩
(制备方法)
将A部和B部分别加热溶解,向A部中加入B部,混合后冷却至大约40℃。
(实施例54)
含水唇彩
(制备方法)
将A部和B部分别加热熔融,使其均匀,向A部中混合B部。冷却至大约40℃,加入D部,均匀混合。
(实施例55)
粉底液
(制备方法)
将A部、B部、C部加温混合。向A部中加入B部,使其乳化后,冷却至大约50℃,加入C部、D部搅拌至均匀。
(实施例56)
粉底液
(制备方法)
将A部加热至70℃搅拌后,添加C部进行分散处理。将其添加至预先加热至70℃的B部中进行乳化分散。冷却至大约40℃,均匀混合。
(实施例57)
粉底
(制备方法)
将A部加温至大约70℃,充分搅拌使其均匀分散。将B部加温至大约70℃,使其均匀后向A部中加入B部,在大约70℃搅拌乳化后,冷却至大约40℃。
(实施例58)
隔离霜
(制备方法)
将A部、B部分别在不同的容器中加温溶解。向A部中加入B部,使其乳化后,加入C部,均匀混合。搅拌后冷却至40℃。
(实施例59)
阳光隔离化妆品
(制备方法)
向B部中加入A部并搅拌。再加入C利用辊磨机使其分散。将D部加温溶解,加入A、B、C部的混合物中,再加入E部使其达到大约70℃。将F部加温,对A至E部的混合物边搅拌边缓慢乳化。边搅拌边冷却,在40~35℃加入G部,均匀混合。
(实施例60)
阳光隔离剂化妆品
(制备方法)
将A部均匀分散。将B部、C部分别加温至大约70℃溶解。向A部缓慢添加B部后,缓慢添加C部,进行乳化。边搅拌边冷却,在45℃加入D部并搅拌。
(实施例61)
阳光隔离剂化妆品
(制备方法)
将A部均匀分散。将B部、C部分别加温至大约70℃溶解。向A部中缓慢添加B部后,缓慢添加C部,进行乳化。边搅拌边冷却,在45℃加入D部、E部,均匀混合。
(实施例62)
霜
(制备方法)
将A部、B部加温溶解,均匀分散。向A部中缓慢添加B部进行乳化,配合分散后的C部,边搅拌边冷却。在大约40℃加入C部,均匀混合。
(实施例63)
护肤油
(制备方法)
将A部加温至50℃,均匀溶解,冷却至室温。将B部加温至80℃,均匀溶解,冷却至大约40℃。将A部与B部混合。
在上述配方中,以产品名记载的成分的详细情况如下。
〇LP70H:氢化溶血卵磷脂
〇LUSPLAN DD—IS:二异硬脂酸二聚亚油醇酯
〇LUSPLAN PI—DA:二聚亚油酸二(异硬脂醇/植物甾醇)酯
〇LUSPLAN DD—DHR:二聚亚油醇氢化松脂酸酯缩合物
〇LUSPLAN DD—DA5:二聚亚油酸二聚亚油醇酯
〇LUSPLAN DD—DA7:二聚亚油酸二聚亚油醇酯
〇LUSPLAN SR—DP4:二聚亚油酸二聚亚油醇酯、四异硬脂酸季戊四醇酯
〇LUSPLAN SR—DM4:二聚亚油酸二聚亚油醇酯、三(辛酸/癸酸)甘油酯
〇Neosolue—Aqulio:环己二酸双乙氧基二甘醇酯
〇Neosolue—AquaS:(二十烷二酸/十四烷二酸)多甘油酯—10
〇Neosolue—MCT:三(辛酸/癸酸)甘油酯
〇Neosolue—MP:二新戊酸甲基戊二醇酯
〇Neosolue—DE:二新戊酸二乙基戊二醇酯
〇Plandool—ISS:异硬脂酸植物甾醇酯
〇Plandool—MAS:澳洲坚果油脂肪酸植物甾醇酯
〇Plandool—LG1:月桂酰谷氨酸二(植物甾醇/辛基十二烷基/山嵛醇)酯
〇Plandool—LG2:月桂酰谷氨酸二(植物甾醇/辛基十二烷基)酯
〇Plandool—LG3:月桂酰谷氨酸二(植物甾醇/辛基十二烷基/山嵛醇)酯
〇Plandool—LG4:月桂酰谷氨酸二(植物甾醇/辛基十二烷基/山嵛醇)酯
〇Plandool—DP:双二甘油基多酰基己二酸酯—2
〇Plandool—SUN:向日葵籽油脂肪酸植物甾醇酯
〇Plandool—G:二聚亚油酸二聚亚油醇双(山嵛醇/异硬脂醇/植物甾醇)酯
〇Plandool—H:二聚亚油酸(植物甾醇/异硬脂醇/鲸蜡醇/硬脂醇/山嵛醇)酯
〇Plandool—S:二聚亚油酸(植物甾醇/异硬脂醇/鲸蜡醇/硬脂醇/山嵛醇)酯
〇Phytopresome MEL:糖脂、氢化卵磷脂、BG、精制水
〇Phytocompo-SP:氢化卵磷脂、植物甾醇类、BG、甘油
〇Phytocompo-PP:氢化卵磷脂、植物甾醇类
〇Phytocompo-C:氢化卵磷脂、植物甾醇类、神经酰胺2、神经酰胺3、神经酰胺6II
〇Tremoist-TP:银耳多糖体
〇乙基VC:3-O-乙基抗坏血酸
〇YOFCO MAC:澳洲坚果油脂肪酸胆甾醇酯
〇芥酸内酯DES:γ-二十二烷基内酯(γ-Docosalactone)、癸二酸二乙酯
〇芥酸内酯MCT:γ-二十二烷基内酯、三(辛酸/癸酸)甘油酯
Claims (4)
1.一种化妆品,其特征在于,
含有菊粉组合物,
全部菊粉的平均聚合度为13~23,
全部菊粉100质量%中,含有95质量%以上的聚合度为5~29的菊粉。
2.如权利要求1所述的化妆品,其特征在于,
还含有水溶性多糖类。
3.如权利要求2所述的化妆品,其特征在于,
所述水溶性多糖类为选自银耳多糖体、透明质酸和黄原胶中的1种以上。
4.如权利要求1~3中任一项所述的化妆品,其特征在于,
其为皮肤清洁剂。
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CN113015515B true CN113015515B (zh) | 2023-06-09 |
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CN110438012B (zh) * | 2019-08-05 | 2021-10-26 | 四川大学 | 一种产花青素的萨氏曲霉h-1及其应用 |
JP7539138B2 (ja) | 2020-09-19 | 2024-08-23 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
CN114376949B (zh) * | 2020-10-21 | 2024-03-26 | 重庆希尔安药业有限公司 | 一种精华面膜及其制备方法和应用 |
CN112998245A (zh) * | 2021-01-17 | 2021-06-22 | 贵州大学 | 一种利用副干酪乳杆菌发酵的酸辣香菇辣椒酱及其制备方法 |
CN114425032B (zh) * | 2021-12-23 | 2023-05-12 | 湖南人文科技学院 | 一种保湿消炎的组合物及其制备方法和应用 |
CN116196237B (zh) * | 2023-05-04 | 2023-07-28 | 山东博科医用材料有限公司 | 一种抗氧化的缓释酶制剂 |
CN116850103B (zh) * | 2023-06-15 | 2024-05-14 | 宁都县秋烨生物科技有限公司 | 一种紧致肌肤、提亮肤色的修复精华液及其制备方法 |
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DK0769026T4 (da) * | 1994-07-07 | 2005-06-06 | Tiense Suikerraffinaderij Nv | Fraktionerede polydisperse sammensætninger |
JPH1072312A (ja) * | 1996-09-02 | 1998-03-17 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 皮膚外用剤 |
JP4669618B2 (ja) * | 2001-03-12 | 2011-04-13 | 株式会社コーセー | 固形状化粧料 |
JP2003104825A (ja) * | 2001-09-28 | 2003-04-09 | Kose Corp | 化粧料並びに化粧料用組成物 |
JP2005053835A (ja) * | 2003-08-04 | 2005-03-03 | Kanebo Ltd | 乳化型皮膚外用剤 |
EP1541117A1 (en) * | 2003-12-12 | 2005-06-15 | Tiense Suikerraffinaderij N.V. | Cosmetic rinse-off compositions comprising inulin-type fructan |
JP5127026B2 (ja) * | 2007-03-29 | 2013-01-23 | 株式会社コーセー | 油性化粧料 |
FR2925361B1 (fr) * | 2007-12-20 | 2010-11-05 | Oreal | Emulsions h/e contenant une inuline modifiee hydrophobe et au moins un polysaccharide epaississant d'origine vegetale |
JP6166089B2 (ja) * | 2013-03-29 | 2017-07-19 | 株式会社コーセー | 粉体化粧料 |
JP6866059B2 (ja) * | 2015-08-20 | 2021-04-28 | ロレアル | 水中油型エマルジョン組成物 |
CN105950684A (zh) * | 2016-07-01 | 2016-09-21 | 白银熙瑞生物工程有限公司 | 以菊芋为原料生产低聚果糖的方法 |
JP2018008891A (ja) * | 2016-07-13 | 2018-01-18 | 日本精化株式会社 | 毛髪化粧料 |
JP7141628B2 (ja) * | 2017-05-11 | 2022-09-26 | 日本精化株式会社 | 化粧料 |
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