CN112472623A

CN112472623A - Essence with whitening and repairing effects and preparation method and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN112472623A
Application number: CN201910969476.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 刘晶; 孙怀庆; 聂艳峰; 郭朝万; 胡露
Original assignee: Guangdong Marubi Biological Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangdong Marubi Biological Technology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2019-10-12
Filing date: 2019-10-12
Publication date: 2021-03-12

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses essence with whitening and repairing effects, and a preparation method and application thereof. The essence is prepared from the following raw materials: sodium hyaluronate, nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin, a transdermal enhancer composition, diglucosylgallic acid, water-soluble ceramide, a humectant, an antioxidant, a thickener, a skin conditioner, a preservative and deionized water. The prepared essence has good stability, good whitening effect and good skin barrier repairing function, can be used for a long time, and is applied to the whitening field and the skin care field.

Description

Essence with whitening and repairing effects and preparation method and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to an essence with whitening and repairing effects and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of facial skin care cosmetics.

Background

"love heart and everyone's own", appeared from the civilization of human, had the pursuit of beauty. In ancient times, zinc powder is used for wiping faces, and white is used as beauty, so that the beauty consciousness becomes the mainstream aesthetic consciousness.

The content and distribution of melanin determine the shade of skin color, the formation of melanin can be converted into true melanin only after intermediates such as dopa, dopaquinone, dopachrome, dihydroxyindole and the like are catalyzed by tyrosinase, the structural function and the number of melanocytes directly influence the content of melanin in skin, and therefore, the method for inhibiting the formation process of melanin is a method frequently used in skin whitening. The currently accepted inhibition of melanin formation is mainly: inhibiting melanin synthase; reducing or blocking the binding of intermediates during melanin formation; inhibiting melanocyte proliferation; inhibiting melanin transfer; scavenging free radicals, and the like.

In the prior art, in order to prevent skin from blackening and spots, the efficacy raw materials added in the whitening cosmetics in the market at present mainly comprise one or more of hydroquinone, kojic acid, mercury compounds, tartaric acid, vitamin C and the like, but all have certain defects. Vitamin C, for example, is a very powerful reducing agent, which itself has an antioxidant effect and can reduce melanin. However, vitamin C is extremely unstable and can be oxidized by air and light, and its aqueous solution is unstable and quickly oxidized to dehydroascorbic acid, which is accelerated by light, heat, and metal ions such as iron and copper. The whitening principle of the fruit acid is to accelerate the metabolism of old cutin, but the excessive use of the fruit acid can cause the cutin of the skin to be easily separated, thin and sensitive to change. The alpha-arbutin is easy to hydrolyze to generate phenol in the use of whitening products, so that the skin can generate symptoms such as allergy and the like. The nano gold is dissolved in water, but the prepared colloidal solution is unstable due to the high surface activity of the nano gold to generate aggregation of different degrees, and the nano gold is easy to agglomerate when meeting micro particles and has poor stability.

People begin to use milder, stable and effective whitening skin care products to achieve the effect of whitening skin. By inhibiting tyrosinase activity, melanin production is reduced, thereby preventing new pigmentation, improving skin tarnish caused by solarization or endocrine dyscrasia, and increasing skin color clarity and uniformity.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide the essence with whitening and repairing effects, which can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in the skin and block the formation of melanin so as to realize the whitening and repairing effects, is safe, reliable, mild and obvious in effect, and can be used for a long time. The alpha-arbutin is easy to hydrolyze to cause skin allergy and other symptoms when used in whitening products. The nano gold is easy to agglomerate and has poor stability, and the prior art aims to solve the problem that a dispersant is added into nano particles mostly, but the addition of a chemical dispersant in cosmetics tends to increase skin allergy and increase cost input.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

the invention provides an essence with whitening and repairing effects, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight

Hyaluronic acid sodium salt	0％～0.5％
		Nicotinamide	0.1％～6％
Tranexamic acid	0.1％～6％
		Alpha-arbutin	0.1％～3％
Transdermal enhancer composition	0％～0.2％
		Diglucosylgallic acid	0.01％～6％
Water-soluble ceramides	0.1％～10％
		Moisture-retaining agent	2％～10％
Antioxidant agent	0.01％～0.5％
		Thickening agent	0.01％～1％
Skin conditioner	0.01％～2％
		Preservative	0.4％～1.2％
Deionized water	Balance of

Further, the invention provides essence with whitening and repairing effects, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

hyaluronic acid sodium salt	0.03％
		Nicotinamide	2％
Tranexamic acid	2％
		Alpha-arbutin	1％
Transdermal enhancer composition	0.1％
		Diglucosylgallic acid	2％
Water-soluble ceramides	2％
		Moisture-retaining agent	5％
Antioxidant agent	0.2％
		Thickening agent	0.2％
Skin conditioner	0.5％
		Preservative	0.7％
Deionized water	Balance of

Preferably, the humectant comprises one or more of glyceryl polyether-26, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol; the antioxidant is ascorbyl palmitate; the thickening agent is acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; the skin conditioner is one or more of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid and tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid; the preservative is one or more of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, glyceryl caprylate or p-hydroxyacetophenone.

The invention also optimizes the weight part ratio of the transdermal enhancer composition. Preferably, the proportion of the parts by weight of the transdermal enhancer composition in the essence with whitening and repairing effects is 1: 3-5.

Preferably, the proportion of the transdermal enhancer composition in the essence with whitening and repairing effects is 1:4 by weight.

Further, the invention provides a preparation method of the essence with whitening and repairing effects, which comprises the following steps:

s1, weighing the components according to the formula, adding the rest of water, humectant, thickener, sodium hyaluronate and nicotinamide into a water phase pot, stirring, heating to raise the temperature to 85-90 ℃, and keeping the temperature;

s2, pumping the water phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, stirring, keeping vacuum, homogenizing at low speed, and then preserving heat;

s3, keeping vacuum and stirring, cooling, adding tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin, a transdermal enhancer composition, diglucosylgallic acid, water-soluble ceramide, a skin conditioner, an antioxidant and a preservative, stirring, filtering and discharging to obtain the essence with whitening and repairing effects.

Preferably, the rotation speed of the stirring in the step S1 is 800-1000 rpm, and the rotation speed of the stirring in the steps S2 and S3 is 30-50 rpm.

Preferably, the heat preservation time in the step S1 is 5-15 min, and the heat preservation time in the step S2 is 25-35 min. ,

preferably, the vacuum degree of the vacuum maintaining in the steps S2 and S3 is-0.04 MPa to-0.06 MPa; s2 homogenizing at 1000-2000 rpm for 1-3 min; step S3, cooling the steel plate to 40-45 ℃; the stirring time of the step S3 is 15-20 min; in step S3, the filtering mesh number is 250-350 mesh.

Preferably, the essence with whitening and repairing effects is applied to the preparation of cosmetics with whitening and repairing effects.

Specifically, firstly, stability, tyrosine kinase inhibition rate and skin repairing barrier performance tests are performed on the essence containing the transdermal enhancer composition in test examples 1-3, and it is confirmed that the essence provided by the invention has increased stability and has a synergistic whitening effect compared with the essence using nano-gold and tremella polysaccharide alone.

Test examples 1 to 3 respectively examine the stability, the tyrosine kinase inhibition rate and the skin repairing barrier performance of the essence prepared in examples 1 to 9 of the present invention, and the results show that the stability, the tyrosine kinase inhibition rate and the skin repairing barrier performance test effect are the best when the weight part ratio of the nanogold to the tremella polysaccharide in the transdermal enhancer composition provided by the present invention is 1: 4.

Wherein the alpha-arbutin has the effects of whitening, removing freckles, activating skin and removing wrinkles; the nano gold in the transdermal enhancer composition promotes the transdermal absorption of the functional components; the tremella polysaccharide in the transdermal enhancer composition can be used as a natural stabilizer of nanogold, reduces agglomeration, promotes skin conditioning, is used as a humectant, keeps the skin from shrinking and feeling tight, and has a protective effect on the skin; the diglucosylgallic acid has the effects of whitening skin and improving dark skin; water-soluble amides, skin conditioners, bioactive substances capable of regulating the vital activities of cells, which are contained in the stratum corneum in the skin in a high content, are essential components in the skin, can effectively lock moisture, promote epidermal hydration, and have the functions of skin barrier, moisture retention, aging resistance, whitening and the like.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and effects: firstly, a plurality of components with different whitening mechanisms, such as alpha-arbutin, a transdermal enhancer composition, diglucosylgallic acid and the like are added, so that the transfer and the generation of melanin can be effectively inhibited, the generation of melanin is reduced, the skin color deepening caused by ultraviolet rays and the like is reduced, and the skin whitening degree is improved; secondly, after the transdermal enhancer composition is added, the moisture loss of the skin is effectively regulated, the quality of a dry stratum corneum and a skin protection barrier is repaired, the water retention capacity of the skin is increased, and the skin becomes soft and smooth and recovers elasticity; third, stability is increased due to the addition of the transdermal enhancer composition.

Detailed Description

The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are illustrative of the present invention and are not to be construed as being limited thereto.

Examples

Embodiments 1 to 7 provide an essence with whitening and repairing effects, which comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

in the above embodiments, in the transdermal enhancer composition, the ratio of nanogold: the proportion of the tremella polysaccharide by weight is 1: 3; the humectant comprises one or more of glyceryl polyether-26, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol or 1, 2-hexanediol; the antioxidant is ascorbyl palmitate; the thickening agent is acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; the skin conditioner is one or more of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid and tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid; the preservative is one or more of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, glyceryl caprylate or p-hydroxyacetophenone.

The preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:

s1, adding accurately weighed deionized water, humectant, thickener, sodium hyaluronate and nicotinamide into a water phase pot, stirring at 1000rpm, heating to 85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 15 min;

s2, pumping the water phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, stirring at 30rpm, keeping the vacuum degree at-0.04 Mpa, homogenizing at 1000rpm for 3min, and keeping the temperature for 25 min;

s3, keeping the vacuum degree at-0.04 Mpa, homogenizing at 1000rpm, cooling, adding the tranexamic acid, the alpha-arbutin, the transdermal enhancer composition, the diglucosylgallic acid, the water-soluble ceramide, the skin conditioner, the antioxidant and the preservative which are accurately weighed, stirring at 50rpm, filtering by a 250-mesh sieve, and discharging to obtain the essence with the whitening and repairing effects.

Examples 8 and 9 provide an essence having whitening and repairing effects, which comprises the same raw materials as in example 7 in percentage by weight, and the following nano-gold and tremella polysaccharide in parts by weight:

the essences described in examples 8 and 9 were prepared in the same manner as in examples 1 to 7.

Comparative example:

comparative example 1: the nano-gold is absent, the missing components are replaced by tremella polysaccharide, and other components, the using amount and the production process are the same as those in the example 8.

Comparative example 2: the tremella polysaccharide is deleted, the deleted components are replaced by nano-gold, and other components, the using amount and the production process are the same as those in the example 8.

Comparative example 3: the transdermal enhancer composition was absent, the absent ingredient was replaced with water, and the other ingredients, amounts and production processes were the same as in example 8.

Comparative example 4: the composition of the skin penetration enhancer missing the component is replaced by alpha-arbutin, and other components, dosage and production process are the same as those in the embodiment 8.

Comparative example 5: the diglucosylgallic acid is deleted, the deleted components are replaced by water, and other components, amounts and production process are the same as those in example 8.

Comparative example 6: the diglucosylgallic acid is deleted, the deletion component is replaced by alpha-arbutin, and other components, the amount and the production process are the same as those in example 8.

Test example 1: stability determination

The results of heat resistance for one week of the essences prepared in examples 1 to 9 and ratios 1 to 6, respectively, and the commercially available essence were placed in an oven environment at 45 ℃ are shown in table 1 below.

TABLE 1 Change of the essence placed in the oven for 1 week

The results of heat resistance for one month in oven environment of 45 ℃ of the essences prepared in examples 1 to 9 and in proportions 1 to 6 and the commercially available essence were respectively taken and placed in the following table 2.

TABLE 2 Change of essence placed in oven for 1 month

The results of heat resistance for three months in an oven environment at 45 ℃ of the essence prepared in examples 1 to 9 and in proportions 1 to 6 and the commercially available essence are shown in table 3 below.

TABLE 3 Change of essence placed in oven for 3 months

Group of	Color change	Change in odor	Product thinning	Agglomeration phenomenon
					Example 1	Without change	Without change	Is free of	Has block-shaped agglomeration
Example 2	Without change	Without change	Become thin	Has block-shaped agglomeration
					Example 3	Without change	Without change	Is free of	Has block-shaped agglomeration
Example 4	Without change	Without change	Is free of	Has block-shaped agglomeration
					Example 5	Without change	Without change	Is free of	Has block-shaped agglomeration
Example 6	Without change	Without change	Is free of	Has block-shaped agglomeration
					Example 7	Without change	Without change	Is free of	Has block-shaped agglomeration
Example 8	Without change	Without change	Is free of	Is free of
					Example 9	Without change	Without change	Is free of	Has block-shaped agglomeration
Comparative example 1	Without change	Has peculiar smell	Become thin	Is free of
					Comparative example 2	Without change	Has peculiar smell	Become thin	Agglomeration
Comparative example 3	Without change	Has peculiar smell	Become thin	Is free of
					Comparative example 4	Without change	Has peculiar smell	Become thin	Is free of
Comparative example 5	Without change	Has peculiar smell	Become thin	Is free of
					Comparative example 6	Without change	Has peculiar smell	Become thin	Is free of
Commercial essence	Yellowing of	Has peculiar smell	Become thin	Is free of

From the above tables 1 to 3, it can be seen that the color, smell and product of examples 1 to 9 of the present invention do not change within 1 month of heat resistance in an oven environment of 45 ℃, while the color, smell and product of the commercially available essence turn yellow, generate off-flavor and thin. The examples 1 to 9 show that the essence has good thermal stability, and meanwhile, as shown in table 3, after the essence is placed in an oven environment at 45 ℃ and is heat-resistant for three months, compared with the case of singly administering the nanogold and the tremella polysaccharide, the skin penetration enhancer composition has no agglomeration phenomenon when the weight ratio of the nanogold to the tremella polysaccharide is 1:4, which indicates that the nanogold and the tremella polysaccharide synergistically promote the stability of the essence.

Test example 2: determination of tyrosine kinase inhibition

1ml of the solutions of examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 6 were respectively placed at a constant temperature of 37 ℃ for 10min, 1ml of a 0.15% tyrosinase solution was added and mixed, and then the absorbance was measured at 475nm at a constant temperature of 37 ℃ for 10min, and the tyrosinase inhibition ratios obtained are shown in Table 1.

Table 4: inhibition rate of tyrosine kinase

Group of	Tyrosinase inhibition%
		Example 1	66
Example 2	45
		Example 3	40
Example 4	55
		Example 5	45
Example 6	60
		Example 7	70
Example 8	75
		Example 9	61
Comparative example 1	43
		Comparative example 2	41
Comparative example 3	50
		Comparative example 4	35
Comparative example 5	66
		Comparative example 6	44

From table 4, it can be seen that, compared with the composition lacking the transdermal enhancer in the comparative example, the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the example 8 is much higher than that of the comparative examples 1 to 6, and secondly, the tyrosine kinase inhibition rates of the composition are lower than those of the composition containing the transdermal enhancer by singly applying the nanogold and the tremella polysaccharide to replace the transdermal enhancer, which indicates that the nanogold and the tremella polysaccharide synergistically inhibit tyrosinase to exert activity.

Test example 2: repair skin barrier performance test

Respectively taking the prepared essences of examples 1-9 and comparative examples 1-6 to try 100 subjects, wherein the trial time is 4 weeks; the skin water loss (TEWL) values were then determined using a Tewameter TM300, CK, Germany, and the results are shown in Table 5.

Table 5: repair skin barrier performance test

The TEWL value of the skin reflects the rate at which water in the deep layers of the skin is lost through the skin, with the better the skin barrier function, the lower the value. As can be seen from Table 5, the skin TEWL values of examples 1-9 are lower than those of the comparative examples after 4 weeks, wherein the skin TEWL value of example 8 is the smallest, the best skin barrier repairing effect is shown, and the ratio of the nano-gold to the tremella polysaccharide in the transdermal enhancer composition is 1: 4; compared with the single administration of the nanogold, the tremella polysaccharide and the diglucosyl gallic acid, the TEWL value of the skin of the transdermal enhancer composition is obviously reduced, which shows that the transdermal enhancer composition has synergistic effect on repairing the barrier function of the skin.

Test example 3: skin whitening efficacy and allergy test assay

The prepared essences of examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 6 were respectively used by 100 subjects for trial, the trial time was 4 weeks, the skin whitening efficacy and the allergic reaction test were performed on the skin, and the test results are shown in table 6 for comparison with those of week 0 after the trial time was 4 weeks.

Table 6: skin whitening efficacy and allergy test

It can be seen from table 6 that the skin whiteness values, skin brightness, and allergy improvement rates of example 8 are much higher than those of comparative examples 1 to 6, and the effects are best exhibited in examples 1 to 9; compared with the single administration of nanogold, tremella polysaccharide and diglucosylgallic acid, the skin whitening degree, brightness and allergy improvement rate of the skin penetration enhancer composition are obviously improved, which shows that the skin penetration enhancer composition synergistically enhances the whitening effect.

The foregoing embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and utilities of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention. Any person skilled in the art can modify or change the above-mentioned embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Accordingly, it is intended that all equivalent modifications or changes which can be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and technical spirit of the present invention be covered by the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. The essence with whitening and repairing effects is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

hyaluronic acid sodium salt 0％～0.5％ Nicotinamide 0.1％～6％ Tranexamic acid 0.1％～6％ Alpha-arbutin 0.1％～3％ Transdermal enhancer composition 0.01％～0.2％ Diglucosylgallic acid 0.01％～6％ Water-soluble ceramides 0.1％～10％ Moisture-retaining agent 2％～10％ Antioxidant agent 0.01％～0.5％ Thickening agent 0.01％～1％ Skin conditioner 0.01％～2％ Preservative 0.4％～1.2％ Deionized water Balance of

2. The essence with whitening and repairing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

hyaluronic acid sodium salt 0.01％～0.05％ Nicotinamide 0.5％～4％ Tranexamic acid 1％～4％ Alpha-arbutin 0.5％～2％ Transdermal enhancer composition 0.05％～0.1％ Diglucosylgallic acid 0.5％～4％ Water-soluble ceramides 1％～4％ Moisture-retaining agent 3％～8％ Antioxidant agent 0.1％～0.5％ Thickening agent 0.05％～0.3％ Skin conditioner 0.2％～1.0％ Preservative 0.6％～1.0％ Deionized water Balance of

3. The essence with whitening and repairing effects according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by mass:

4. The essence with whitening and repairing functions as claimed in claim 1, wherein the transdermal enhancer composition comprises nanogold and tremella polysaccharide; the humectant comprises one or more of glyceryl polyether-26, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol or 1, 2-hexanediol; the antioxidant is ascorbyl palmitate; the thickening agent is acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; the skin conditioner is one or more of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid and tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid; the preservative is one or more of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, glyceryl caprylate or p-hydroxyacetophenone.

5. The essence with whitening and repairing effects according to claim 4, wherein the proportion by weight of the nanogold and the tremella polysaccharide in the transdermal enhancer composition is 1: 3-5.

6. The essence with whitening and repairing effects according to claim 4, wherein the ratio of the nano-gold to the tremella polysaccharide in the transdermal enhancer composition is 1:4 by weight.

7. The essence with whitening and repairing effects according to claims 1-6, which is prepared by the following method:

8. The essence with whitening and repairing effects according to claim 7, wherein the stirring rotation speed of step S1 is 800-1000 rpm, and the stirring rotation speed of steps S2 and S3 is 30-50 rpm.

9. The essence with whitening and repairing effects according to claim 7, wherein the heat preservation time of step S1 is 5-15 min, and the heat preservation time of step S2 is 25-35 min.

10. The essence having whitening and repairing effects according to claim 7, wherein the vacuum degree of the vacuum maintaining in steps S2 and S3 is-0.04 MPa to-0.06 MPa; s2 homogenizing at 1000-2000 rpm for 1-3 min; step S3, cooling the steel plate to 40-45 ℃; the stirring time of the step S3 is 15-20 min; in step S3, the filtering mesh number is 250-350 mesh.