CN111956520A

CN111956520A - Skin care composition with pore refining effect

Info

Publication number: CN111956520A
Application number: CN202010957530.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 彭冠杰; 陈展辉; 何水莲; 李扬思
Original assignee: Fanke Cosmetics Research And Development Guangzhou Co ltd
Current assignee: Fanke Cosmetics Research And Development Guangzhou Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-09-14
Filing date: 2020-09-14
Publication date: 2020-11-20

Abstract

The invention discloses a skin care composition with an effect of refining pores, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-5% of lactobionic acid, 0.1-1% of azelaic acid and 0.1-1% of caprylyl glycine. Can effectively inhibit 5 alpha-reductase, relieve excessive secretion of skin oil, and simultaneously can gently strip cutin, narrow pores and improve the problem of large pores from inside to outside. In addition, experiments show that the skin care composition also has the effects of whitening and brightening skin.

Description

Skin care composition with pore refining effect

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a skin care composition with an effect of refining pores.

Background

The large skin pores present the appearance of an uneven skin surface depression, although not a medical condition, and are widely regarded and sought to be solved by the general public as a cosmetic problem.

The inducing factors for pore enlargement include exogenous and endogenous factors, such as sex, genetic susceptibility, aging, chronic ultraviolet exposure, exogenous irritant substances, acne, seborrheic dermatitis, etc. The large pores are due to the increased pore volume, which appears as epidermal growth and extended penetration into the dermis under a focused laser microscope, and the dermal papilla layer rises to the epidermal level, forming an "stalactite-like appearance" under the mirror. Resulting in uneven skin texture and a dimpled appearance to the naked eye.

The main causes of the enlargement of facial pores are the vigorous secretion of sebaceous glands, the elastic relaxation of the tissue structure around the pores and the enlargement of hair follicles. Studies have shown a positive correlation between sebaceous gland secretion and pore size. The hormone level is an important regulator of sebaceous gland secretion, and the up-regulation of progestogen can activate the close relationship between the vigorous sebum secretion of sebaceous glands and the large pores. In addition, pore size is associated with aging, skin elasticity decreases resulting in a decrease in skin integrity, and the loosening of perifollicular support structures can result in a change in the appearance of large pores. In addition, the severe acne may cause tiny scar formation of the upwarp hair follicle, and the upwarp hair follicle can block under the stimulation of androgen, so that the volume of the hair follicle is increased and the pore is enlarged.

At present, the treatment means aiming at improving the large pores mainly comprises photoelectric treatment, and commonly comprises semiconductor laser, exfoliation and non-exfoliation lattice laser, microneedle radio frequency and the like. The photoelectric treatment is to stimulate collagen denaturation and regeneration of skin tissues through the principle of photothermal action, and can achieve the effect of improving pores, but the photothermal effect can bring serious postoperative symptoms such as blisters, pigmentation and the like.

Cosmetics are popular as a mild care product for beautifying or changing the appearance of human skin. The existing cosmetics mainly deal with large pores in a physical mode, for example, oil absorption powder such as polymethyl methacrylate, silica, nylon 12, modified starch and the like is used for adsorbing excessively secreted oil. In addition, the makeup color product such as foundation liquid can be smeared to cover, soften focus and fill pores, but the fact that the pores are large cannot be fundamentally changed.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a skin care composition with the effect of refining pores, which can effectively inhibit 5 alpha-reductase, reduce excessive secretion of skin grease, and simultaneously can mildly strip cutin, narrow pores and improve the problem of large pores from inside to outside. In addition, experiments show that the skin care composition also has the effects of whitening and brightening skin.

The specific technical scheme of the invention is as follows: a skin care composition with pore refining effect comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-5% of lactobionic acid, 0.1-1% of azelaic acid and 0.1-1% of caprylyl glycine.

The lactobionic acid disclosed by the invention is widely applied to food and medicines, can form a compound with various minerals (calcium, copper, iron, chromium, manganese and the like), has good solubility, and can be used as an antibiotic carrier, an organ transplantation protective buffer component, a mineral supplement and the like. Used in cosmetics and has high moisture keeping, antioxidant, antiaging, and cutin removing effects.

The azelaic acid can competitively inhibit an enzyme process for producing dihydrotestosterone, and reduce excessive skin grease induced by the dihydrotestosterone factor. The 5 α -reductase is an enzyme which catalyzes a reaction for converting testosterone into Dihydrotestosterone (DHT), and azelaic acid can inhibit the action of the 5 α -reductase at a low concentration. In the case of acne, the decrease of free fatty acid, the lack of food of propionibacterium, and the decrease of comedones and blackheads may be related, which also means the decrease of the incidence of acne. The inhibition of excessive excitable sebaceous glands by azelaic acid reduces the secretion of the skin. The direct additional benefits are that the formation of comedones and blackheads is reduced, and the occurrence probability of the acne is reduced.

The capryloyl glycine is a good functional component, firstly, the capryloyl glycine has a bacteriostatic effect, has a strong inhibiting effect on staphylococcus epidermidis, propionibacterium acnes and the like, can inhibit excessive secretion of sebum, and has a remarkable effect on preventing and treating acnes. In addition, caprylyl glycine has good affinity for skin, can efficiently deliver active ingredients in cosmetics, and can improve the using effect of other functional products. Effectively inhibit activation of elastase, prevent decomposition of elastin, and reduce skin wrinkles. Used as a biological agent for glycine to regulate the ecosystem of the skin.

In some of these examples, the azelaic acid and caprylylglycine are hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin wraps, which are commercially available products, preferably, prepared according to the following process:

(1) taking hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, adding distilled water according to the weight ratio of 1:1, stirring and heating to dissolve; cooling to room temperature, placing in a colloid mill, and adjusting the clearance of the colloid mill to 0.5-1 mm;

(2) dissolving azelaic acid and/or caprylyl glycine in excessive ethanol, adding into a colloid mill, fully grinding to obtain paste, and performing suction filtration to obtain white precipitate;

(3) and (3) using a spray dryer, controlling the air inlet temperature to be 200-220 ℃ and the air outlet temperature to be 90-110 ℃, and performing spray drying on the white precipitate to obtain the white precipitate.

In some embodiments, the skin care composition with pore-refining efficacy further comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1 to 1 percent of betaine salicylate.

The skin care composition with the pore refining effect can effectively inhibit 5 alpha-reductase, relieve excessive secretion of skin grease, meanwhile, can gently strip cutin, shrink pores, improve the problem of large pores from inside to outside, and also has the effects of whitening and brightening the skin. Can be used as an effective additive to be added into skin care substrates such as facial masks, cream, aqua, essence, lotion, BB cream, facial cleanser and the like to play a role in refining pores.

The formulation of the skin care base of the present invention may include: 0.1 to 1 percent of thickening agent, 1 to 10 percent of humectant and 0.1 to 0.5 percent of preservative.

The thickening agent can be one or more of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, xanthan gum, carbomer sodium, carbomer, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium magnesium lithium silicate, sodium alginate, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone, magnesium aluminum silicate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer and sodium hyaluronate.

The humectant can be one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, sorbitol, ethanol, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol-32, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, polyglycerol-10 and polyglycerol-8.

The preservative can be one or more than one of methyl hydroxybenzoate, ethylparaben, propyl hydroxybenzoate, p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, methylisothiazolinone, DMDM hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, dichlorobenzyl alcohol and caprylyl hydroximic acid.

The technical scheme provided by the embodiment of the invention has the following beneficial effects: the skin care composition with the pore refining effect is compounded with lactobionic acid, azelaic acid and caprylyl glycine, can effectively inhibit 5 alpha-reductase, relieve excessive secretion of skin grease, and simultaneously can mildly strip cutin, narrow pores and improve the problem of large pores from inside to outside. In addition, experiments show that the skin care composition also has the effects of whitening and brightening skin. According to the invention, the azelaic acid and the caprylyl glycine are wrapped by hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, so that the product can be slowly released on the skin surface, and the effect of continuously refining pores is achieved.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph of the therapeutic effect of volunteers with large pores.

Detailed Description

The embodiments in the description are only for illustrating the present invention and do not limit the scope of the present invention. The scope of the present invention is defined only by the appended claims, and any omissions, substitutions, or modifications made based on the embodiments disclosed herein will fall within the scope of the present invention.

The disclosure may be understood more readily by reference to the following detailed description of preferred embodiments of the invention and the examples included therein. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. In case of conflict, the present specification, including definitions, will control.

The term "prepared from …" as used herein is synonymous with "comprising". The terms "comprises," "comprising," "includes," "including," "has," "having," "contains," "containing," or any other variation thereof, as used herein, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such composition, process, method, article, or apparatus.

When an amount, concentration, or other value or parameter is expressed as a range, preferred range, or as a range of upper preferable values and lower preferable values, this is to be understood as specifically disclosing all ranges formed from any pair of any upper range limit or preferred value and any lower range limit or preferred value, regardless of whether ranges are separately disclosed. For example, when a range of "1 to 5" is disclosed, the described range should be interpreted to include the ranges "1 to 4", "1 to 3", "1 to 2 and 4 to 5", "1 to 3 and 5", and the like. When a range of values is described herein, unless otherwise stated, the range is intended to include the endpoints thereof and all integers and fractions within the range.

In addition, the indefinite articles "a" and "an" preceding an element or component of the invention are not intended to limit the number requirement (i.e., the number of occurrences) of the element or component. Thus, "a" or "an" should be read to include one or at least one, and the singular form of an element or component also includes the plural unless the stated number clearly indicates that the singular form is intended.

For the purpose of enhancing understanding of the present invention, the present invention will be further described in detail with reference to the following examples, which are provided for illustration only and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Example 1

A cyclodextrin inclusion compound of azelaic acid is prepared according to the following processes:

(1) taking hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, adding distilled water according to the weight ratio of 1:1, stirring and heating to dissolve; cooling to room temperature, placing in a colloid mill, and adjusting the clearance of the colloid mill to 0.5 mm;

(2) dissolving azelaic acid in excessive ethanol, adding into a colloid mill, fully grinding to obtain paste, and performing suction filtration to obtain white precipitate;

(3) and (3) using a spray dryer, controlling the air inlet temperature to be 220 ℃ and the air outlet temperature to be 90 ℃, and performing spray drying on the white precipitate to obtain the white precipitate.

Example 2

(1) taking hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, adding distilled water according to the weight ratio of 1:1, stirring and heating to dissolve; cooling to room temperature, placing in a colloid mill, and adjusting the clearance of the colloid mill to be 1 mm;

(2) dissolving caprylyl glycine in excessive ethanol, adding into a colloid mill, fully grinding to obtain paste, and performing suction filtration to obtain white precipitate;

(3) and (3) using a spray dryer, controlling the air inlet temperature to be 200 ℃ and the air outlet temperature to be 110 ℃, and performing spray drying on the white precipitate to obtain the white precipitate.

Example 3

The skin care essence with the effect of refining pores comprises the following components in percentage by mass: lactobionic acid 0.1%, azelaic acid cyclodextrin inclusion 1% prepared in example 1, caprylyl glycine cyclodextrin inclusion 0.1% prepared in example 2, xanthan gum 0.05%, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-60.2%, glycerin 1%, butylene glycol 5%, glyceryl polyether-260.1%, methylparaben 0.15%, ethylhexylglycerin 0.01%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, and balance water.

Example 4

The skin care essence with the effect of refining pores comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of lactobionic acid, 0.1% of azelaic acid cyclodextrin wrap prepared in example 1, 1% of caprylyl glycine cyclodextrin wrap prepared in example 2, 0.1% of xanthan gum, 60.1% of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, 5% of glycerol, 1% of butanediol, 261% of glycerol polyether, 0.05% of methylparaben, 0.05% of ethylhexyl glycerol, 0.3% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of water.

Example 5

The skin care essence with the effect of refining pores comprises the following components in percentage by mass: lactobionic acid 2%, azelaic acid cyclodextrin inclusion 0.5% prepared in example 1, caprylyl glycine cyclodextrin inclusion 0.5% prepared in example 2, xanthan gum 0.08%, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-60.15%, glycerol 2.5%, butanediol 3%, glycerol polyether-260.5%, methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.12%, ethylhexylglycerol 0.03%, phenoxyethanol 0.4%, and the balance of water.

Example 6

The skin care essence with the effect of refining pores comprises the following components in percentage by mass: lactobionic acid 2%, azelaic acid 0.5%, caprylyl glycine 0.5%, xanthan gum 0.08%, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-60.15%, glycerol 2.5%, butanediol 3%, glycerol polyether-260.5%, methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.12%, ethylhexylglycerol 0.03%, phenoxyethanol 0.4%, and the balance of water.

Example 7

The skin care essence with the effect of refining pores comprises the following components in percentage by mass: lactobionic acid 2%, azelaic acid 0.5%, caprylyl glycine 0.5%, xanthan gum 0.08%, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-60.15%, glycerol 2.5%, butanediol 3%, glycerol polyether-260.5%, methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.12%, ethylhexylglycerol 0.03%, phenoxyethanol 0.4%, betaine salicylate 0.5%, and water in balance.

Example 8

To facilitate the evaluation of the efficacy by the researchers and to exclude the effect of age difference on the treatment, 120 volunteers with a problem of coarse skin with hair pores between 25 and 35 years old were selected as the subjects. Wherein the following cannot be selected as the subject: those who use antihistamines for nearly one week or immunosuppressants for nearly one month; in the last two months, any anti-inflammatory drug is applied to the tested part; the subject has a clinically unvulcanized inflammatory skin condition; insulin-dependent diabetic patients; patients suffering from asthma or other chronic respiratory diseases undergoing therapy; those receiving anti-cancer chemotherapy within approximately 6 months; patients with immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease; lactating or pregnant women; bilateral mastectomy and bilateral underarm lymph node resection; the judgment of the test result is influenced by scars, pigments, atrophy, port wine stains or other flaws on the skin to be tested; other clinical trial participants; those with high constitutional sensitivity; non-volunteer participants or those who cannot complete the prescribed content as required by the trial.

Randomly distributing the volunteers into 4 groups, each group containing 30 persons, respectively using the skin care essence prepared in examples 3-6, 0.1g each time, uniformly applying on the face, and gently flapping until absorption; it is administered 1 time each in the morning and evening for 8 weeks.

And adopting a domestic scoring standard of large pores. 1 minute: pores are rarely visible; and 2, dividing: pores are slightly visible; and 3, dividing: pores can be seen clearly; and 4, dividing: pores are obviously visible or contain keratotic plugs smaller than the size of the pores; and 5, dividing: pores are very obviously visible or contain angle plugs with the same size as the pores; 6 min: obviously enlarge pores or contain keratotic plugs which protrude the pores, and are in a strawberry shape. The face of the volunteer was cleaned, pictures of the left side and the right side at 45 degrees were taken from the front, at week 0, week 2, week 4, week 6 and week 8 in the same photo studio, the pictures were stored for later comparison, and two researchers who did not participate in the treatment objectively scored and scored to collect scoring data. The specific test records are shown in table 1 and fig. 1.

In the evaluation of whitening efficacy by an objective instrument method, a Lab colorimetric system specified by the international commission on illumination (CIE) was selected to measure the change in skin color of the test site. ITA ° = [ arctan (L × 50)/b × 180/pi), which is a value that characterizes the brightness of the skin, the greater the value of ITA °, the brighter the skin, and conversely the darker the skin. The L, a, b values at week 0, week 2, week 4, week 6, and week 8 were measured using a colorimeter, and the ITA ° was calculated. The specific test records are shown in table 2.

TABLE 1 pore score record sheet

TABLE 2 ITA DEG value record table for whitening evaluation

As can be seen from table 1, the skin care essence prepared in the embodiment of the present invention has a good effect of shrinking pores, and the effect of the azelaic acid and the caprylyl glycine after being wrapped with the cyclodextrin is better.

As can be seen from table 2, the forehead skin care essence prepared by the embodiment of the invention has good whitening and brightening effects.

The technical features of the above embodiments can be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the above embodiments are not described, but should be considered as the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.

The above examples only show some embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims

1. The skin care composition with the effect of refining pores is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-5% of lactobionic acid, 0.1-1% of azelaic acid and 0.1-1% of caprylyl glycine.

2. The skin care composition having pore-refining efficacy according to claim 1, wherein said azelaic acid and/or caprylylglycine is hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin inclusion.

3. The skin care composition having pore-refining efficacy according to claim 2, wherein said hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin inclusion of azelaic acid and/or caprylylglycine is prepared by the following process:

4. The skin care composition with pore-refining efficacy according to claim 1, further comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1 to 1 percent of betaine salicylate.

5. The use of the skin care composition having pore-refining effect according to claim 1 as a cosmetic additive, wherein the cosmetic base is a mask, a cream, a lotion, an essence, an emulsion, a BB cream, or a facial cleanser.

6. The cosmetic base of claim 5, wherein the base comprises 0.1-1% of a thickener, 1-10% of a humectant, and 0.1-0.5% of a preservative.

7. The cosmetic base of claim 6, wherein the thickener is one or more of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, xanthan gum, sodium carbomer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium magnesium lithium silicate, sodium alginate, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone, magnesium aluminum silicate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic acid copolymers, and sodium hyaluronate.

8. The cosmetic base according to claim 6, wherein the humectant is one or a mixture of more than one of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, sorbitol, ethanol, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol-32, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, glyceryl polyether-26, polyglycerin-10, and polyglycerin-8.

9. The cosmetic base of claim 6, wherein the preservative is one or a mixture of more than one of methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, methylisothiazolinone, DMDM hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, caprylhydroxamic acid.