CN111424443A - 涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺 - Google Patents

涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺 Download PDF

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CN111424443A
CN111424443A CN201910018519.5A CN201910018519A CN111424443A CN 111424443 A CN111424443 A CN 111424443A CN 201910018519 A CN201910018519 A CN 201910018519A CN 111424443 A CN111424443 A CN 111424443A
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徐叶根
余梁军
高建明
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Zhejiang Yingfeng Technology Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，包括去油漂白前处理、一浴法染色、后整理工序。去油漂白前处理：配置前处理液、浸入涤锦粘织物，升温至100℃，保温处理30min；二浴法染色：活性/中性染料染锦/粘：按浴比配置染液，升温至60℃、保温染色20min，再升温至100℃、保温染色30min，降温、排液、皂洗、水洗；分散染料染涤：按浴比配置染液，升温至125‑135℃，保温染色45min；降温、排液、还原清洗、水洗；后整理：涤锦粘织物浸轧后整理液，170‑180℃条件下，30‑40m/min车速定型。本发明极大地缩短了涤锦粘织物的染整工艺流程，染整加工时间由传统工艺的7‑8小时缩短为3‑4小时，节约了水电汽。

Description

涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及面料的染整工艺，具体涉及涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺。
背景技术
涤锦粘织物含涤纶、锦纶、粘胶三种成份的纤维，这类织物身骨坚挺，手感滑爽、丰满，是当今十分流行的服装面料。
传统的涤/锦/粘混纺交织织物的染色加工，采用三浴三步法染色，不仅工艺时间长，水和能源的消耗极大，且产品质量控制困难。因此，需要寻求短工艺流程加工方法。
发明内容
本发明目的是提供一种涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，采用分散、活性、中性染料两浴法染色，以缩短染整工艺流程。
为实现上述目的，本发明采用如下的技术方案。
涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，包括去油漂白前处理、一浴法染色、后整理工序，
去油漂白前处理：配置前处理液、浸入涤锦粘织物，升温至100℃，保温处理30min；
二浴法染色：
活性/中性染料染锦/粘：按浴比配置染液，入布，升温至60℃、保温染色20min，再升温至100℃、保温染色30min，降温、排液、皂洗、水洗；
分散染料染涤：按浴比配置染液，入布，升温至125-135℃，保温染色45min；降温、排液、还原清洗、水洗；
后整理：涤锦粘织物浸轧后整理液，170-180℃条件下，30-40m/min车速烘干定型；
前处理液由6g/L NaOH、4g/L双氧水、2g/L双氧水稳定剂、4g/L去油剂及水组成；
染锦/粘染液由中性固色活性染料、中性染料及2g/L螯合分散剂、2g/L锦纶匀染剂、20g/L元明粉及水组成；
染涤纶染液由分散染料及2g/L螯合分散剂、2g/L高温匀染剂及水组成；
后整理液由硅油乳液及水组成；
所述的螯合分散剂，其制备方法为：400份水中加入10份马来酸酐、6份α-烯烃磺酸盐、8份丙烯酰胺及22份如式1所示的马来酸混合双酯，搅拌溶解，升温至82℃，滴加16份丙烯酸及0.5份过硫酸钾与15份水的溶液，1.5h滴加完毕，再保温反应4h；反应体系降至室温，按摩尔比n(马来酸混合双酯)：n(NaOH)：n(CS2)＝1:2.2:2.2的比例，先加入NaOH，溶解搅拌均匀，再于室温缓慢滴加CS2，滴加时间1h，然后继续保温反应2h，得所述的螯合分散剂；
Figure BDA0001939967350000021
所述的硅油乳液，其制备方法为：在乳化釜中加入120份水、11份乳化剂、21份D4、4份如式2所示的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂，高速搅拌乳化，得预乳化液；在反应釜中加入150份水、10份乳化剂，搅拌均匀，升温至80-83℃，加入3份氢氧化钠，滴加预乳化液，并保温反应4h；冷却后，以醋酸调节pH值至中性，升温至70-75℃，加入0.2份过硫酸钠与10份水的溶液及8份如式3所示的可聚合季铵盐单体，反应3h，即得所述硅油乳液。
Figure BDA0001939967350000031
所述的双氧水稳定剂为氧浴保护剂OWS、双氧水稳定剂M-1021CC中的一种。
所述的去油剂为雅洁瑞RO-G、去油剂TF-129中的一种。
所述的高温匀染剂为高温耐盐匀染剂RS-11、涤纶染色宝DM-2831中的一种。
所述的锦纶匀染剂为匀染剂O、尼龙匀染剂B-31中的一种。
本发明涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，将去油、漂白合为一浴进行面料的前处理，涤、锦、粘的分散染料、酸性染料、活性染料三浴分别套染工艺合为二浴法染色，并于后整理时以高阳离子密度的硅油进行染色面料的柔软、固色整理，这些都极大地缩短了涤锦粘织物的染整工艺流程，染整加工时间大大缩短，节约了水电汽。
涤锦粘面料传统染整工艺，在染色后需另置水浴，以锦、粘专用固色剂对锦、粘进行固色处理，以使面料的摩擦、皂洗牢度符合国标要求。若不在染色后进行专门的固色处理，而是在面料成品定型时，于定型机料槽中将市售常规固色剂与柔软剂混合，对面料进行固色、柔软处理。但由于固色剂与柔软剂表面张力差异较大，易在定型时，固色剂与柔软剂混合液受较大的剪切力而出现飘油、粘辊，布面硅油斑等疵病现象。
本发明硅油乳液，合成时引入季铵盐硅烷偶联剂，在D4开环缩聚形成的分子链中接入含双键的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂，再与季铵盐单体共聚，形成高阳离子密度、稳定、均相的硅油乳液，提高了面料的柔软手感，并可对染色面料进行固色处理，实现柔软、固色一浴，省却了染色后单独水浴固色的工序。
此外，硅油乳液中环氧基团可在固化时，与粘胶纤维中的羟基交联，增强硅油聚合物与面料的结合牢度，提高柔软、固色的耐久性。
具体实施方式
本发明公开了一种涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，包括去油漂白前处理、一浴法染色、后整理工序，
去油漂白前处理：配置前处理液、浸入涤锦粘织物，升温至100℃，保温处理30min；
涤锦粘织物含少量纺丝油迹，前处理时仅需作去油及漂白处理即可。
前处理的浴比视织物的清洁程度、半成品品质要求等确定，浴比一般为1:5-1:10；
前处理液由6g/L NaOH、4g/L双氧水、2g/L双氧水稳定剂、4g/L去油剂及水组成。
双氧水稳定剂、去油剂等均可市购得到，为本领域常规产品，可选用如下产品：
所述的双氧水稳定剂为氧浴保护剂OWS(苏州联胜化学有限公司)、双氧水稳定剂M-1021CC(杭州美高华颐化工有限公司)；
所述的去油剂为雅洁瑞RO-G(上海雅运纺织化工股份有限公司)、去油剂TF-129(浙江传化化学集团有限公司)中的一种。
涤锦粘织物的常规染色工艺一般为三浴法，分别对涤、锦、粘套染，为节约染色流程，现已有一浴法染色工艺采用，此工艺多适于浅、中色，高色牢度要求时，多采用二浴法。
锦纶织物的染色通常需要在90℃-100℃下，使用酸性染料在酸性条件下进行染色；而粘胶织物通常需要在60℃-80℃，适用活性染料在碱性条件下进行染色。由此可见，锦纶和粘胶的染色条件差异极大，不能共存。所以传统的锦/粘混纺交织织物的染色加工，往往都是采用二浴二步法染色，即先染一种纤维，再染另外一种。本发明采用中性固色活性染料和中性染料，使得粘胶织物可以在90℃-100℃条件下进行染色，从而实现锦/粘一浴一步法染色。
本发明涤锦粘织物染色时，先以一浴一步法染色工艺染锦/粘，再以分散染料套染涤组份的两浴两步法。
二浴法染色：
活性/中性染料染锦/粘：按浴比配置染液，升温至60℃、保温染色20min，再升温至100℃、保温染色30min，降温、排液、皂洗、水洗；
分散染料染涤：按浴比配置染液，升温至125-135℃，保温染色45min；降温、排液、还原清洗、水洗；
染锦/粘的染液由中性固色活性染料、中性染料及2g/L螯合分散剂、2g/L锦纶匀染剂、20g/L元明粉及水组成；
染涤纶的染液由分散染料及2g/L螯合分散剂、2g/L高温匀染剂及水组成。
锦/粘、涤染色后，分别进行皂洗、还原清洗，以去除浮色，提高色牢度。
皂洗工艺条件为：皂洗剂2g/L、温度95-98℃、10min。皂洗剂为本领域常规产品，如净洗剂209、皂片等。
还原清洗工艺及处方条件为：保险粉2g/L、氢氧化钠2g/L、85℃/10min。
高温匀染剂、锦纶匀染剂等均可市购得到，为本领域常规产品，可选用如下产品：
所述的高温匀染剂为高温耐盐匀染剂RS-11(苏州联胜化学有限公司)、涤纶染色宝DM-2831(广东德美精细化工集团股份有限公司)；
所述的锦纶匀染剂为匀染剂O(上海天坛助剂有限公司)、尼龙匀染剂B-31(苏州联胜化学有限公司)中的一种。
所述的分散染料、中性固色活性染料、中性染料均为常规染料，市售产品如分散黄E-3G、分散红FB、分散蓝2BLN、分散黄C-4G、分散红玉SE-GFL、分散蓝SE-2R、
Figure BDA0001939967350000061
黄NF-4G、
Figure BDA0001939967350000062
黄NF-GR、
Figure BDA0001939967350000063
黄NF-GL、
Figure BDA0001939967350000064
Figure BDA0001939967350000065
大红NF-GL、
Figure BDA0001939967350000066
红NF-3B、
Figure BDA0001939967350000067
翠蓝NF-2G、
Figure BDA0001939967350000068
蓝NF-BN、
Figure BDA0001939967350000069
藏青NF-MG、
Figure BDA00019399673500000610
藏青NF-BG、
Figure BDA00019399673500000611
嫩黄M-4G、
Figure BDA00019399673500000612
黄M-2R、
Figure BDA00019399673500000613
黄M-NS、
Figure BDA00019399673500000614
橙M-RN、
Figure BDA00019399673500000615
红M-G、
Figure BDA00019399673500000616
Figure BDA00019399673500000617
红M-3B、
Figure BDA00019399673500000618
红M-NS、
Figure BDA00019399673500000619
蓝M-2RN、
Figure BDA00019399673500000620
蓝M-NS、
Figure BDA00019399673500000621
藏青M-R、
Figure BDA00019399673500000622
棕M-B、
Figure BDA00019399673500000623
灰M-G、
Figure BDA00019399673500000624
Figure BDA00019399673500000625
灰M-2G、
Figure BDA00019399673500000626
黑M-AR、
Figure BDA00019399673500000627
黑ACE 120％等。
染料的种类及用量视织物目标色的颜色及深浅决定，通常以owf％为单位。
所述的螯合分散剂，其制备方法为：400份水中加入10份马来酸酐、6份α-烯烃磺酸盐、8份丙烯酰胺及22份如式1所示的马来酸混合双酯，搅拌溶解，升温至82℃，滴加16份丙烯酸及0.5份过硫酸钾与15份水的溶液，1.5h滴加完毕，再保温反应4h；反应体系降至室温，按摩尔比n(马来酸混合双酯)：n(NaOH)：n(CS2)＝1:2.2:2.2的比例，先加入NaOH，溶解搅拌均匀，再于室温缓慢滴加CS2，滴加时间1h，然后继续保温反应2h，得所述的螯合分散剂；
Figure BDA0001939967350000071
所述的马来酸混合双酯，制备方法为：在配备搅拌器、温度计及回流冷凝器的反应器中加入摩尔比n(脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚AEO-15)：n(马来酸酐)＝1:1.2的比例加入AEO-15及马来酸酐，并加入占马来酸酐质量1.2％的乙酸钠催化剂，氮气保护下，升温至105℃后，保温反应3h；再按摩尔比n(马来酸酐)：n(十二烷基单乙醇胺)＝1:1.05的比例，向反应器中加入十二烷基单乙醇胺，并加入占马来酸酐质量1.5％的硼酸，升温至130℃，保温反应4h，得马来酸混合双酯。反应过程如下式(1)、(2)所示。脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚AEO-15的结构式为C12H25(CH2CH2O)9H。
Figure BDA0001939967350000072
纤维素纤维、锦纶染色后，往往需要另置水浴进行固色处理，以使染色品的色牢度满足要求。本发明以季铵盐单体与有机硅共聚，形成一定阳离子密度的硅油产品，既可改善织物的柔软手感，又可提高染色织物的色牢度，实现柔软整理、固色同浴处理，缩短了加工工艺流程。
后整理：涤锦粘织物浸轧后整理液，170-180℃条件下，30-40m/min车速定型；后整理液由20g/L硅油乳液及水组成。
所述的硅油乳液，其制备方法为：在乳化釜中加入120份水、11份乳化剂、21份D4、4份如式2所示的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂，高速搅拌乳化，得预乳化液；在反应釜中加入150份水、10份乳化剂，搅拌均匀，升温至80-83℃，加入3份氢氧化钠，滴加预乳化液，并保温反应4h；冷却后，以醋酸调节pH值至中性，升温至70-75℃，加入0.2份过硫酸钠与10份水的溶液及8份如式3所示的可聚合季铵盐单体，反应3h，即得所述硅油乳液。
Figure BDA0001939967350000081
所述的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂，其制备方法为：a、在氮气保护下，按摩尔比2.02:1，将3-异氰酸酯基丙基三甲氧基硅烷、3-二甲氨基-1,2-丙二醇加入至反应器中，加入占3-异氰酸酯基丙基三甲氧基硅烷质量0.5％的辛酸亚锡，在70℃下搅拌反应5h，得化合物A；b、在氮气保护下，按摩尔比1:1.1将步骤a所得的化合物A及烯丙基氯加入反应器中，恒温水浴加热，55℃反应5h，反应过程中冷凝回流，反应结束后将粗产品旋转蒸发除去过量的烯丙基氯，得所述的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂。反应过程如反应方程式(3)、(4)所示。
Figure BDA0001939967350000082
Figure BDA0001939967350000091
所述的可聚合季铵盐单体，其制备方法如下：
1)、在氮气保护下，将15.5g 3-异氰酸酯基丙基三甲氧基硅烷、9g二甲基乙醇胺、0.8g辛酸亚锡加入反应器中，在70℃下搅拌反应6h，降温，得化合物B，如反应方程式(5)所示；
2)、加入145g环氧氯丙烷及50mL异丙醇，搅拌混合均匀，在反应温度为80℃下，搅拌反应10h，溶液逐渐变色，呈现淡黄色，冷却呈粘稠状，丙酮洗涤2～3次，40℃下真空干燥，得到淡黄色可聚合环氧基季铵盐，如反应方程式(6)所示。涉及的反应方程式如下：
Figure BDA0001939967350000092
硅油乳液聚合，所述的乳化剂由非离子乳化剂、阳离子乳化剂按质量比1:2组成，非离子乳化剂为脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚AEO-7，阳离子乳化剂为十六烷基三甲基溴化铵。
实施例1
一种硅油乳液，其制备方法为：在乳化釜中加入120份水、11份乳化剂、21份D4、4份如式2所示的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂，高速搅拌乳化，得预乳化液；在反应釜中加入150份水、10份乳化剂，搅拌均匀，升温至80-83℃，加入3份氢氧化钠，滴加预乳化液，并保温反应4h；冷却后，以醋酸调节pH值至中性，升温至70-75℃，加入0.2份过硫酸钠与10份水的溶液及8份如式3所示的可聚合季铵盐单体，反应3h，即得所述硅油乳液。
Figure BDA0001939967350000101
乳化剂由脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚AEO-7、十六烷基三甲基溴化铵按质量比1:2组成。
所述的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂，其制备方法为：a、在氮气保护下，按摩尔比2.02:1，将3-异氰酸酯基丙基三甲氧基硅烷、3-二甲氨基-1,2-丙二醇加入至反应器中，加入占3-异氰酸酯基丙基三甲氧基硅烷质量0.5％的辛酸亚锡，在70℃下搅拌反应5h，得化合物A；b、在氮气保护下，按摩尔比1:1.1将步骤a所得的化合物A及烯丙基氯加入反应器中，恒温水浴加热，55℃反应5h，反应过程中冷凝回流，反应结束后将粗产品旋转蒸发除去过量的烯丙基氯，得所述的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂。
所述的可聚合季铵盐单体，其制备方法如下：
1)、在氮气保护下，将15.5g 3-异氰酸酯基丙基三甲氧基硅烷、9g二甲基乙醇胺、0.8g辛酸亚锡加入反应器中，在70℃下搅拌反应6h，降温，得化合物B；2)、加入145g环氧氯丙烷及50mL异丙醇，搅拌混合均匀，在反应温度为80℃下，搅拌反应10h，溶液逐渐变色，呈现淡黄色，冷却呈粘稠状，丙酮洗涤2～3次，40℃下真空干燥，得到淡黄色可聚合环氧基季铵盐。
实施例2
涤锦粘双层纱支：75D*160D+10S19％粘胶、58％涤纶、23％锦纶
涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，包括去油漂白前处理、一浴法染色、后整理工序，
去油漂白前处理：浴比1:8，配置前处理液、浸入涤锦粘织物，升温至100℃，保温处理30min；前处理液由6g/L NaOH、4g/L双氧水、2g/L双氧水稳定剂M-1021CC(杭州美高华颐化工有限公司)、4g/L去油剂TF-129(浙江传化化学集团有限公司)及水组成；
二浴法染色：
活性/中性染料染锦/粘：按浴比1:8配置染液，入布，升温至60℃、保温染色20min，再升温至100℃、保温染色30min，降温、排液、皂洗、水洗；
分散染料染涤：按浴比1:8配置染液，入布，升温至125-135℃，保温染色45min；降温、排液、还原清洗、水洗；
锦/粘染液由中性固色活性染料、中性染料及2g/L螯合分散剂、2g/L尼龙匀染剂B-31(苏州联胜化学有限公司)、20g/L元明粉及水组成；涤纶染液由分散染料及2g/L螯合分散剂、2g/L涤纶染色宝DM-2831(广东德美精细化工集团股份有限公司)及水组成；
皂洗工艺条件为：净洗剂2092g/L、温度95-98℃、10min；
还原清洗工艺条件为：保险粉2g/L、氢氧化钠2g/L、85℃10min；
后整理：涤锦粘织物浸轧后整理液，170-180℃条件下，30-40m/min车速定型；后整理液由硅油乳液及水组成，后整理液中硅油乳液的浓度为20g/L。
所述的螯合分散剂，其制备方法为：400份水中加入10份马来酸酐、6份α-烯烃磺酸盐、8份丙烯酰胺及22份如式1所示的马来酸混合双酯，搅拌溶解，升温至82℃，滴加16份丙烯酸及0.5份过硫酸钾与15份水的溶液，1.5h滴加完毕，再保温反应4h；反应体系降至室温，按摩尔比n(马来酸混合双酯)：n(NaOH)：n(CS2)＝1:2.2:2.2的比例，先加入NaOH，溶解搅拌均匀，再于室温缓慢滴加CS2，滴加时间1h，然后继续保温反应2h，得所述的螯合分散剂；
其中的硅油乳液由实施例1法制备。
采用该实施例的染色工艺，染制黄、蓝、红三单色试样，测试染色试样的色牢度。染料处方及相关色牢度见表1所示。
表1染料处方及染色品色牢度
Figure BDA0001939967350000121
Figure BDA0001939967350000131
涤锦棉织物采用本发明短流程染整工艺加工，其干摩擦牢度、湿摩擦牢度和皂洗牢度优良，达到相关标准要求。
摩擦牢度测试按照GB/T 3920-2008纺织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度；
皂洗牢度测试按照GB/T3921-2008纺织品色牢度试验耐洗色牢度。

Claims (5)

1.涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，包括去油漂白前处理、一浴法染色、后整理工序，
去油漂白前处理：配置前处理液、浸入涤锦粘织物，升温至100℃，保温处理30min；
二浴法染色：
活性/中性染料染锦/粘：按浴比配置染液，入布，升温至60℃、保温染色20min，再升温至100℃、保温染色30min，降温、排液、皂洗、水洗；
分散染料染涤：按浴比配置染液，入布，升温至125-135℃，保温染色45min；降温、排液、还原清洗、水洗；
后整理：涤锦粘织物浸轧后整理液，170-180℃条件下，30-40m/min车速定型；
前处理液由6g/L NaOH、4g/L双氧水、2g/L双氧水稳定剂、4g/L去油剂及水组成；
染锦/粘的染液由中性固色活性染料、中性染料及2g/L螯合分散剂、2g/L锦纶匀染剂、20g/L元明粉及水组成；
染涤纶的染液由分散染料及2g/L螯合分散剂、2g/L高温匀染剂及水组成；
后整理液由硅油乳液及水组成；
所述的螯合分散剂，其制备方法为：400份水中加入10份马来酸酐、6份α-烯烃磺酸盐、8份丙烯酰胺及22份如式1所示的马来酸混合双酯，搅拌溶解，升温至82℃，滴加16份丙烯酸及0.5份过硫酸钾与15份水的溶液，1.5h滴加完毕，再保温反应4h；反应体系降至室温，按摩尔比n(马来酸混合双酯)：n(NaOH)∶n(CS2)＝1∶2.2∶2.2的比例，先加入NaOH，溶解搅拌均匀，再于室温缓慢滴加CS2，滴加时间1h，然后继续保温反应2h，得所述的螯合分散剂；
Figure FDA0001939967340000021
所述的硅油乳液，其制备方法为：在乳化釜中加入120份水、11份乳化剂、21份D4、4份如式2所示的季铵盐硅烷偶联剂，高速搅拌乳化，得预乳化液；在反应釜中加入150份水、10份乳化剂，搅拌均匀，升温至80-83℃，加入3份氢氧化钠，滴加预乳化液，并保温反应4h；冷却后，以醋酸调节pH值至中性，升温至70-75℃，加入0.2份过硫酸钠与10份水的溶液及8份如式3所示的可聚合季铵盐单体，反应3h，即得所述硅油乳液。
Figure FDA0001939967340000022
。
2.根据权利要求1所述的涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，其特征在于：所述的双氧水稳定剂为氧浴保护剂OWS、双氧水稳定剂M-1021CC中的一种。
3.根据权利要求1所述的涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，其特征在于：述的去油剂为雅洁瑞RO-G、去油剂TF-129中的一种。
4.根据权利要求1所述的涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，其特征在于：述的高温匀染剂为高温耐盐匀染剂RS-11、涤纶染色宝DM-2831中的一种。
5.根据权利要求1所述的涤锦粘织物短流程染整工艺，其特征在于：述的锦纶匀染剂为匀染剂O、尼龙匀染剂B-31中的一种。
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CN112796123A (zh) * 2020-12-29 2021-05-14 石狮市港溢染整织造有限公司 一种新型怀旧风格面料的染色方法及其应用

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Application publication date: 20200717