CN111265463A

CN111265463A - Anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin

Info

Publication number: CN111265463A
Application number: CN202010283991.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 闫继鹏; 李雪竹; 丛琳
Original assignee: Shanghai New Cogi Cosmetic Co ltd
Current assignee: Shanghai New Cogi Cosmetic Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-04-10
Filing date: 2020-04-10
Publication date: 2020-06-12
Anticipated expiration: 2040-04-10
Also published as: CN111265463B

Abstract

The invention discloses an anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin, which relates to the technical field of cosmetics and comprises retinol palmitate, encapsulated retinol, a citrus peel extract, a yeast extract, a gaultheria fruit extract, carnosine, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate and encapsulated ferulic acid.

Description

Anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic compositions, in particular to an anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin.

Background

Aging is a stage that must be experienced in any biological life process, and is a gradual decline process of morphological structure and physiological function generated by genetic factors and external environment (illumination, radiation, pollution and the like) along with the increase of age after a living body develops and matures. Humans also inevitably experience aging, and of course, the skin, which is the largest organ of the human body, also inevitably experiences aging (aging).

The skin aging conditions include thinning of the skin, abnormal horny layer, dryness and lack of water, increase of wrinkles, increase of spots, dull complexion, and the like. Within these appearances, pigmentation, a dull appearance of skin tone, is particularly prominent.

Although there are great advances in the research on skin anti-aging, there are many drawbacks in the development of anti-aging cosmetics. Fine research is not well carried out on dark skin color, and especially, sufficient research and test are not carried out on the complementary principle and the synergistic principle among efficacy substances. Therefore, in view of the above disadvantages, it is very meaningful to develop a synergistic anti-aging product for skin color improvement.

Disclosure of Invention

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide an anti-aging product with a synergistic effect aiming at improving skin color, in particular to an anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin, aiming at least one problem in the background technology.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention proposes the following technical solutions:

an anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin comprises the following components in parts by weight:

retinol palmitate: 0.001-0.5 parts;

wrapping retinol: 0.001-0.5 parts;

citrus peel extract: 2-4 parts;

yeast extract (B): 0.1-5 parts;

extract of Tianzhu fruit: 0.1-5 parts;

carnosine: 0.001-0.2 parts;

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid: 0.001-3 parts;

yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate: 0.0001-10 parts;

packaging ferulic acid: 0.0001 to 0.8 portion.

The further technical scheme is that the weight ratio of the wrapped retinol to the retinol palmitate is 1: 1-100.

Preferably, the weight ratio of encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 2-10.

Preferably, the weight ratio of encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 15-30.

Preferably, the weight ratio of encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 35-60.

Preferably, the weight ratio of encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 65-80.

Preferably, the weight ratio of encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 85-100.

The further technical scheme is that the cosmetic composition also comprises the balance of cosmetic matrix according to the weight part of 100 parts.

The cosmetic matrix comprises at least one of grease, an emulsifier, a humectant, a solvent, a skin conditioner, a thickening agent, a solubilizer, essence and a preservative.

It should be noted that the cosmetic base is a basic material constituting the cosmetic, and those skilled in the art can select the cosmetic base according to the design requirements of the product and the formulation of the product, which is not limited in the present invention.

The invention also provides application of the anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin in preparation of at least one cosmetic formulation of toning lotion, emulsion, essence, cream and face cream.

Aged skin has various pigmentation, making the skin look dull. The invention carries out anti-aging research and development on the aspects of whitening and brightening skin color, and discloses the anti-aging cosmetic composition with the synergistic effect of whitening and brightening skin, wherein the functions of the components are introduced as follows:

the yeast extract contains nucleic acid small molecules, and can absorb ultraviolet rays.

It should be noted that when retinol is used as a single material, a small amount of retinol may result in insufficient whitening effect, while an excessive amount of retinol may cause increased skin irritation, leading to more instability.

The invention selects the wrapped retinol to be matched with the retinol palmitate for use. The wrapped retinol has higher stability and better mildness, and can better permeate into the deep layer of the skin; the retinol palmitate is stable and mild, can complement and play a role with the wrapped retinol, and overcomes the defect that the retinol is used as a single raw material.

The yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate contains various organic acids, and small molecules of the yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate have super strong permeability, can promote the activation and the renewal of epidermal cells, avoid abnormal cutin accumulation and reduce melanin generation, and has the effect of brightening the skin under the matching of other components of the invention.

The citrus peel extract allows the keratin filaments to be uniformly distributed, and the desmoplakin to be distributed just on the cell membrane. Has the best effect on promoting the growth of Caspase-14. Cysteine proteinase-14 (Caspase-14) belongs to a member of the family of cysteine proteases, a cysteine proteinase that has been recently found in humans and is involved in the metabolism of filaggrin. Silk aggrecan is involved in the polymerization and pliability of keratin. Caspase-14 imparts flexibility to keratin and maintains cell tone, leaving the skin smooth and shiny. However, if the amount of the substances is too large, the risk of facial discoloration is caused, and the efficacy of the citrus peel extract can be well exerted by matching the other components of the invention with the citrus peel extract.

The 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid has amphipathy, can better penetrate into the skin, and is more stable than pure VC. It can reduce oxidized melanin (dark black) to light color, inhibit tyrosinase activity, and prevent melanin formation. The activity of tyrosinase is weakened by complexing divalent copper ions of tyrosinase to prevent the formation of black spots. The facial skin can be discolored when the using amount of the 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is too large, and the efficacy of the citrus peel extract can be well exerted by matching the other components of the invention with the 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.

Blue light has been clinically proven to cause long-term hyperpigmentation by affecting skin melanocytes. Carnosine can significantly inhibit the increase of intracellular melanin induced by blue light. It also has anti-saccharification effect and can remove dark yellow.

The extract of fruit of Hylocereus UNDATUS (Hylocereus UNDATUS) can inhibit the transport of melanin by kinesin, so that melanin can be digested in cells to achieve whitening effect. This is a relatively new finding.

The encapsulated ferulic acid has high cell permeability, high adhesion of skin cells, high percutaneous absorption rate and good antioxidant effect, thereby having good whitening and freckle removing effects. If the amount is too large, discoloration may be serious.

Compared with the prior art, the invention can achieve the following technical effects:

the composition disclosed by the invention can absorb ultraviolet rays, resist oxidation, inhibit α -MSH from stimulating the synthesis of melanin of B16 melanoma cells, reduce melanin, inhibit tyrosinase activity, inhibit the transfer of the melanin by kinesin, promote the activation and the renewal of epidermal cells, avoid abnormal cutin accumulation, increase skin luster and remove dark yellow under the combined action of all the components.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the examples will be clearly and completely described below. It is apparent that the embodiments to be described below are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of them. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

It will be understood that the terms "comprises" and/or "comprising," when used in this specification and the appended claims, specify the presence of stated features, integers, steps, operations, elements, and/or components, but do not preclude the presence or addition of one or more other features, integers, steps, operations, elements, components, and/or groups thereof.

It is also to be understood that the terminology used in the description of the embodiments of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the embodiments of the invention. As used in the description of embodiments of the present invention and the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" are intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise.

Examples

An anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin is prepared into emulsion, and the raw material component proportion, the raw material component proportion of a control example and the content of a blank example are shown in the following table 1.

TABLE 1 amounts (unit: mass%) of each component used in examples 1 to 3, comparative examples 1 to 10 and blank examples

The preparation processes of the whitening emulsions of the examples 1-3, the comparative examples 1-10 and the blank example are as follows:

1. adding 10 and 11 into an oil phase pan according to the serial numbers and the dosage of the components shown in the table 1, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, and completely melting;

2. adding part of 12, 13 and 14 into an emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, and completely dissolving;

3. pumping the material body in the oil phase pot into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing and emulsifying for 6-8 minutes, preserving heat for 10 minutes and then cooling;

4. when the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, dissolving the 6 and 7 with the sterilized 14 (part), adding the dissolved 6 and 7 and the rest materials into an emulsifying pot, and stirring for 30 minutes;

5. and after sampling and inspecting, discharging.

Emulsions of comparative examples 11 to 19 were prepared according to the above-mentioned preparation process, and the amounts of the respective components of comparative examples 11 to 19 are shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2 amount of each component used in comparative examples 11 to 19 (% by mass)

The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening the skin, provided by the invention, is prepared into essence, and the formula of each component is as shown in the following table 3 and examples 4-5.

Table 3 amount of each component used in examples 4 to 5 (unit: mass%)

Serial number	Composition (I)	Example 4	Example 5
				1	Retinol palmitate	0.05	0.1
2	Encapsulated retinol	0.05	0.1
				3	Citrus peel extract	2	3.5
4	Yeast extract	1.5	2.5
				5	Extract of Gastrodia elata	1	2.5
6	Carnosine	0.02	0.1
				7	3-O-Ethylascorbic acid	0.5	1
8	Yeast/Rice fermentation product filtrate	2	4
				9	Encapsulating ferulic acid	0.15	0.25
11	Solvent(s)	5	5
				12	Thickening agent	0.3	0.3
13	Solubilizer	0.3	0.3
				14	Deionized water	86.48	79.7
15	Preservative	0.6	0.6
				16	Essence	0.05	0.05

The preparation process comprises the following steps:

1. adding No. 12 and No. 14 raw materials into an emulsifying pot according to the serial numbers and the dosage of the components shown in the table 3, heating and stirring to 85 ℃, completely dissolving, homogenizing for 5 minutes, preserving heat for 10 minutes, and then cooling;

2. solubilizing the No. 1 and No. 16 raw materials by the No. 11 and No. 13 raw materials for standby;

3. dissolving No. 6 and No. 7 raw materials with sterilized 14 (part) completely for later use;

4. when the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, the residual materials are all sequentially added into an emulsifying pot and stirred uniformly;

5. sampling, inspecting, and discharging after the product is qualified.

Effect test example (whitening evaluation)

1. The tester: 130 healthy women (25-45 years old) divided into 13 groups of 10 persons each; each group used the same formulation.

2. Test area: face (left face blank, right face control sample or example sample);

3. use of: twice a day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks

4. Testing an instrument: delfin SkinColorCatch (Finland)

5. The effect indexes are as follows: measuring the change in color lightness (. DELTA.L)^*) ITA degree, L in the present invention^*The values (brightness), ITA degrees (color individual type angle), are mainly used as whitening indices.

Equation (1): Δ L^*＝[L^*(after 1 month of the test conducted in the control example or example) -L^*(before starting the test)]-[L^*(blank example after 1 month of testing) -L^*(blank example before the start of the test)]

(2): the ITA ° values (representing the overall change in chroma, with larger ITA ° values and lighter skin colors) are related to skin color as shown in table 4 below.

The whitening effect is judged by judging the ITA degree values of the subjects before and after the experiment.

6. The test results are shown in table 5 below:

TABLE 4 ITA DEG value vs. skin tone

ITA degree range	Skin color classification
		55–90	Very shallow Very light
41–54	Light shallow
		28–40	Intermediate, etc
10–27	Tanned tanning
		-30–9	Brown color of Brown
-90–-29	-29Dark color of Dark color

Table 5 whitening test results

In table 5:

the results in table 5 show that the anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin provided by the invention has relatively remarkable whitening and brightening effects through the synergistic effect of the components, and the whitening effect is more obvious than that of other combinations.

Comparative examples 1-9 are emulsions made without one of the efficacy components of the present invention, with the total amount of efficacy components being the same as the total amount of efficacy components of example 2 and greater than the total amount of efficacy components of example 1. Comparative example 10 contained 5 efficacy components, the same total amount of efficacy components as in example 2, which was greater than the total amount of efficacy components in example 1. As can be seen from table 5: the comparative examples 1 to 10 had a certain whitening effect, but the whitening effect was weaker than that of examples 1 to 3. The invention has better whitening effect even under the condition of small dosage. The effective component of example 3 is used in an amount larger than that of example 2, but the whitening effect is not improved much, and thus, examples 1-2 are preferred choices in the present invention.

The invention has been described in the foregoing for the phenomenon of skin dullness and increased spots, both of which are signs of skin aging. Therefore, the invention specially realizes the anti-aging purpose from the point of whitening and brightening the skin. The whitening and skin lightening effect of the present invention also represents the anti-aging effect of the present invention.

The above tests were conducted every week by the organization testers subjectively evaluating their skin complexion and condition. The evaluation of the skin of oneself starting from the second week using the groups of examples 1, 2, 3 was significantly higher than the other groups and the difference was greater over time.

Comparative examples 11 to 19 refer to emulsions prepared by adding one functional component in the highest amount defined in the present invention. We performed a mildness test (patch test), stability test, efficacy test. The results are given in table 6 below:

table 6 test results for comparative examples 11 to 19.

As can be seen from table 6 above, the use of the effective component of the present invention alone, even if the addition amount is increased to the maximum, not only causes the problems of stability or mildness, but also has no good whitening effect.

Safety test

1. The number of tested persons: 30 persons in total, 5 men and 25 women; minimum age: age 23, maximum age: age 42; mean age 33 ± 10 years volunteer enrollment criteria.

2. The test method comprises the following steps: examples 1-3 spot test. Selecting a qualified spot tester, placing about 0.020-0.025 mL of a tested object into the spot tester by using a closed spot test method, externally applying a medical adhesive tape to the back of the tested object, removing the tested object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the spot is removed, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

3. The evaluation criteria are as follows in table 7:

TABLE 7 grading Standard for adverse skin reactions

Test results for examples 1-3: the result of the human skin closed patch test shows that 0 of 30 persons has positive reaction, and the test object does not cause adverse skin reaction to the batch of test objects according to the regulation in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

Stability test

1. Stability test samples: example 2 product.

2. The test method comprises the following steps: the internal control standard (illumination for 1 month and high and low temperature test for 3 months) is higher than the national standard and the industrial standard.

3. The test results are given in table 8 below.

Table 8 stability test results for the product of example 2

The results in table 8 show: the whitening, skin-brightening and anti-aging cosmetic composition provided by the invention has good stability in product application.

The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening the skin provided by the invention is prepared into aqua, essence, cream and other dosage forms, and the conclusion of whitening and brightening the skin and good anti-aging can be obtained.

In the above embodiments, the descriptions of the respective embodiments have respective emphasis, and for parts that are not described in detail in a certain embodiment, reference may be made to related descriptions of other embodiments.

While the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments thereof, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and details may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the claims.

Claims

1. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening the skin is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:

retinol palmitate: 0.001-0.5 parts;

wrapping retinol: 0.001-0.5 parts;

citrus peel extract: 2-4 parts;

yeast extract (B): 0.1-5 parts;

extract of Tianzhu fruit: 0.1-5 parts;

carnosine: 0.001-0.2 parts;

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid: 0.001-3 parts;

yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate: 0.0001-10 parts;

packaging ferulic acid: 0.0001 to 0.8 portion.

2. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 1-100.

3. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin of claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 2-10.

4. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin of claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 15-30.

5. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin of claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 35-60.

6. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin of claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 65-80.

7. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin of claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the encapsulated retinol to retinol palmitate is 1: 85-100.

8. The skin whitening and skin lightening anti-aging cosmetic composition according to claim 2, further comprising a cosmetic base in a balance of 100 parts by weight.

9. The skin whitening and skin lightening anti-aging cosmetic composition of claim 8, wherein the cosmetic base comprises at least one of a grease, an emulsifier, a humectant, a solvent, a skin conditioner, a thickener, a solubilizer, a fragrance, a preservative.

10. The use of the anti-aging cosmetic composition for whitening and brightening skin according to claim 9 in the preparation of at least one cosmetic formulation selected from the group consisting of lotions, milks, essences, creams, and creams.