CN111297724B

CN111297724B - Anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity

Info

Publication number: CN111297724B
Application number: CN202010283993.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 闫继鹏; 李雪竹; 丛琳
Original assignee: Shanghai New Cogi Cosmetic Co ltd
Current assignee: Shanghai New Cogi Cosmetic Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-04-10
Filing date: 2020-04-10
Publication date: 2022-10-18
Anticipated expiration: 2040-04-10
Also published as: CN111297724A

Abstract

The invention discloses an anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving the skin elasticity comprises the following components in parts by weight: retinol palmitate: 0.001-0.5 parts; wrapping retinol: 0.001-2 parts; fermentation product lysate: 0.0001-20 parts; nicotinamide: 2-4 parts; the citrus peel extract: 2-4 parts; soluble proteoglycan: 0.1-5 parts; artocarpus heterophyllus leaf/stem extract: 0.1-5 parts; carnosine: 0.001-0.2 parts; 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid: 0.001-3 parts. Under the combined action of the matching of the components, the composition disclosed by the invention starts from different protection mechanisms and directions, improves the skin elasticity and generates a synergistic result.

Description

Anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic compositions, in particular to an anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity.

Background

Aging is a stage that must be experienced in any biological life process, and is a gradual decline process of morphological structure and physiological function generated by genetic factors and external environment (illumination, radiation, pollution and the like) along with the increase of age after a living body develops and matures. Humans also inevitably experience aging, and certainly the skin, which is the largest organ of the human body, also inevitably experiences aging (aging).

The skin is used as the first barrier of the human body, and resists the invasion of the external complex environment, the barrier function of the skin is reduced along with the change of the environment and the increase of the age, and the collagen and the elastin in the skin are gradually reduced, so that the skin has the aging phenomena of wrinkles, elasticity loss and the like.

Although there are great advances in research on skin anti-aging, there are many drawbacks in the development of anti-aging cosmetics. They do not fully consider promoting healthy skin remodeling and inadequate coordination between anti-aging components. Some cosmetic formulations incorporate retinoids, but the stability and irritation problems are not well considered and the skin does not absorb these ingredients well.

Disclosure of Invention

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a composition with synergistic effect for improving skin elasticity, in particular to provide an anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity, aiming at least one problem in the background technology.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention proposes the following technical solutions:

an anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity comprises the following components in parts by weight:

retinol palmitate: 0.001-0.5 parts;

wrapping retinol: 0.001-2 parts;

fermentation product: 0.0001-20 parts;

nicotinamide: 2-4 parts;

citrus peel extract: 2-4 parts;

soluble proteoglycan: 0.1-5 parts;

artocarpus heterophyllus leaf/stem extract: 0.1-5 parts;

carnosine: 0.001-0.2 parts;

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid: 0.001-3 parts;

the further technical scheme is that the weight ratio of the retinol palmitate to the wrapped retinol is 1:1-100.

The further technical scheme is that the weight ratio of the retinol palmitate to the wrapped retinol is 1:10-50.

The further technical scheme is that the purity of the nicotinamide is more than 99% (mass fraction).

The further technical proposal is that the fermentation product is selected from at least one of a lysate of a yeast for secondary fission and a filtrate of a yeast/rice fermentation product.

The further technical proposal is that the fermentation product is selected from a lysate of a yeast for secondary fission and a filtrate of a yeast/rice fermentation product.

The further technical proposal is that the method comprises 1-12 parts of lysate of the fermentation product of the second split yeast; 0.0001-8 parts of yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate.

The further technical scheme is that the cosmetic composition also comprises the balance of cosmetic matrix according to 100 parts by weight.

The cosmetic matrix comprises at least one of grease, an emulsifier, a humectant, a solvent, a skin conditioner, a thickening agent, a solubilizer, essence and a preservative.

It should be noted that the cosmetic base is a basic material constituting the cosmetic, and those skilled in the art can select the cosmetic base according to the design requirements of the product and the formulation of the product, which is not limited in the present invention.

The invention also provides application of the anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity in preparation of at least one cosmetic formulation of toning lotion, emulsion, essence, cream and face cream.

The aged skin exhibits characteristics in which thinning of the skin, increase in wrinkles, loss of elasticity, abnormal cutin, and the like are particularly noticeable. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity, which is disclosed by the invention and relates to synergistic protection in the aspects of increasing skin elasticity, reducing wrinkles and the like, is described as follows: the composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: retinol palmitate: 0.001-0.5%; wrapping retinol: 0.001-2%; split yeast fermentation lysate: 1 to 12 percent; nicotinamide: 2 to 4 percent; citrus (Citrus RETICULATA) pericarp extract: 2 to 4 percent; soluble proteoglycan: 0.1-5%; extract of leaves/stems of Artocarpus heterophyllus (Myrothamnus FLABELLIFOLIA): 0.1 to 5 percent; carnosine: 0.001-0.2%; 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid: 0.001-3%; 0.0001-8% of yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate; other cosmetic basic auxiliary materials: and the balance.

The functions of the components are described as follows:

retinol increases the content of collagen and elastin in the skin, increases collagen synthesis, induces the formation of dermal elastin and fibers in the skin, improves the structure of collagen and elastic fibers in the papillary dermis and improves the structure of the true epidermal junction. Retinol helps to improve the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Thinning of the epidermis is one of the signs of aging due to the slowing of keratinocyte turnover, with thinner epidermis at the bottom of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol stimulates epidermal cell proliferation to thicken the epidermal layer, and the effect is comparable to that of retinoic acid. The invention selects the wrapped retinol, which is beneficial to increase the mildness, permeability and bioavailability. The invention also selects the retinol palmitate to compound and wrap the retinol, the matching property of the two is mild, the stability is better, and the retinol can be converted into the retinol in the skin to play a role.

The yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate contains part of oligosaccharide, and can activate body cells and prevent pachylosis; contains various organic acids, has small molecular weight and super-strong penetrability, can quickly permeate into skin, promote the activation and the renewal of epidermal cells and avoid abnormal cutin accumulation. Can promote collagen production, and is also helpful for the renewal of elastic fiber and the formation of muscle bottom substance, thereby increasing skin elasticity.

The lysate of the yeast fermentation product contains amino acids, lipid, adenosine, vitamins, trace minerals, vitamin B group, peptide, nucleic acid and nucleotide, and can well supplement substances required by skin for synthesizing collagen and the like.

The citrus peel extract has good effect of promoting Caspase-14 generation. Cysteine proteinase-14 (Caspase-14) belongs to a member of the family of cysteine proteinases, a cysteine proteinase that has been recently found in humans and is involved in the metabolism of filaggrin. The production of the natural moisturizing factor NMF by silk fibroin is associated with the polymerization and flexibility of keratin. Disorder of Caspase-14 impairs the barrier function of the skin. Caspase-14 imparts flexibility to keratin and maintains cell tension.

Nicotinamide can selectively promote the synthesis of collagen, and increase fatty acid, ceramide, envelope protein, and filaggrin. To help maintain skin elasticity and remove fine lines and wrinkles. Its addition can also improve skin tolerance to retinoids.

Extract of leaves/stems of Artocarpus heterophyllus (Myrothamnus FLABELLIFOLIA) accelerates synthesis of type I collagen precursor in aged cells, and increases skin elasticity and smoothness.

3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid has collagen repairing activity (including collagen composition and collagen synthesis), and can promote skin cell formation and collagen synthesis according to the ratio of skin cell and collagen consumption.

The soluble proteoglycan has the effect of promoting the production of collagen I.

The carnosine protects and increases the generation of collagen, and can well inhibit infrared-induced MMP-1 up-regulation. Degradation of collagen is an important indicator of photoaging. The major enzyme responsible for collagen degradation is matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), which is up-regulated in expression upon exposure to sunlight and infrared radiation. Since UV sunscreens do not effectively protect the skin from deep-level damage caused by infrared radiation, the best strategy for protection is to find ways to inhibit MMP-1 up-regulation induced by infrared radiation. Glycosylation reactions are cross-linking reactions between sugars and proteins that ultimately lead to the unconventional products AGEs (glycosylation end products). AGEs are inter-linked proteins that have lost biological activity. AGEs are toxic to cells. Crosslinking of collagen can lead to skin hardening and increased wrinkling. Carnosine reacts with sugars and low molecular weight aldehydes, reducing the production of AGEs mediated by these molecules, inhibiting glycation reactions.

Compared with the prior art, the invention can achieve the following technical effects:

the composition disclosed by the invention starts from different protection mechanisms and directions, improves the skin elasticity and produces a synergistic result: the encapsulated retinol and the retinol palmitate are compounded for use, so that the content of collagen and elastin in the skin can be increased, the formation of dermal elastin and fibers in the skin is induced, the structures of the collagen and the elastic fibers in papillary dermis are improved, and the structure of a true epidermal junction layer is improved. Nicotinamide can selectively promote the synthesis of collagen, and increase fatty acid, ceramide, envelope protein and filaggrin. Niacinamide also increases skin tolerance to retinoids. Extract of leaves/stems of Melilotus officinalis (Myrothamnus FLABELLIFOLIA) accelerates the synthesis of type I collagen precursor in aged cells. The soluble proteoglycan has the function of promoting the production of collagen I. The yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate and the lysate of the yeast-split fermentation product supplement substances required for collagen synthesis, and activate skin. The collagen can be protected by 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and carnosine. The citrus peel extract keratin is flexible and maintains cell tension.

The anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity provided by the invention has the effect of improving skin elasticity through the synergistic effect of all the components, so that the anti-aging effect is achieved.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments will be clearly and completely described below. It is apparent that the embodiments to be described below are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Examples

An anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity is prepared into emulsion, and the raw material component proportion, the raw material component proportion of a control example and the content of a blank example are shown in the following table 1.

TABLE 1 emulsions of examples 1 to 3, comparative examples 1 to 6 and blank examples (unit: mass%)

Wherein, the total amount of the active substances for improving the skin elasticity of the comparison examples 1 to 6 is the same as that of the active substances for improving the skin elasticity of the example 2.

The preparation of the emulsions of examples 1 to 3, comparative examples 1 to 6 and the blank is described below:

s1, adding 11 and 12 into an oil phase pot according to the serial numbers and the dosage of the substances in the table 1, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, and completely melting;

s2, adding the 4 and 15 (parts) into an emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, and completely dissolving;

s3, pumping the material body in the oil phase pot into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing and emulsifying for 6-8 minutes, preserving heat for 10 minutes and then cooling;

s4, when the temperature is reduced to 60 ℃, adding the mixture 1 and 13 into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 5 minutes, and continuously cooling;

s5, when the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, dissolving 3, 9 and 10 by using 15 (parts) after sterilization, adding the dissolved substances and 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 16 and 17 into an emulsifying pot, and stirring for 30 minutes;

s6, discharging after sampling and inspecting.

The embodiment of the invention also provides an anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity, which is prepared into essence and comprises the following raw material components in proportion as shown in the following table 2:

table 2 contents of respective components (mass%) of example 4

The essence preparation process shown in table 2 is as follows:

s1, adding the No. 1 and No. 14 raw materials into an emulsifying pot, heating and stirring to 85 ℃, completely dissolving, homogenizing for 5 minutes, preserving heat for 10 minutes, and then cooling;

s2, solubilizing the No. 1 and No. 15 raw materials by the No. 12 and No. 13 raw materials for later use;

s3, completely dissolving No. 3, 9 and 10 raw materials by using the sterilized 14 (part) for standby;

s4, when the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, adding all the residual materials into an emulsifying pot in sequence, and stirring uniformly;

s5, sampling and inspecting, and discharging after the product is qualified.

The embodiment of the invention also provides an anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity, which is prepared into cream, has a formula structure similar to that of emulsion, and has a preparation process similar to that of the emulsion, and the detailed description is omitted.

It should be noted that the grease, the emulsifier, the thickener, the solvent, the deionized water, the essence, the preservative and the like used in the above embodiments all belong to cosmetic substrates and are conventional materials in the cosmetic industry; the cosmetic according to the embodiments of the present invention can be prepared by selecting conventional materials and conventional amounts, and combining the anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity, which is disclosed and defined in the present invention, by the skilled person, and the cosmetic base of different formulations is different, which is not specifically limited in the present invention.

Effect test example (safety test)

Test samples: examples 1-3, comparative examples 1-6, blank.

Test number: 30 subjects per test sample.

And (4) judging the standard: if a 0-positive reaction occurs in 30 persons, the subject does not cause adverse cutaneous reactions to the subjects of this batch, as specified in the technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

The result of the human skin closed patch test shows that the positive reaction cases of the control cases 1 and 5 appear, and the patch test is judged not to be passed. (ii) a Control 4 and example 3 were slightly uncomfortable and did not give a positive response, and controls 2, 3, 4, 6, examples 1-3, and the blank passed the test.

Skin elasticity effect test

Evaluation of effects of examples 1-2, comparative examples 2, 3, 4, and 6, and blank examples

1. Test materials: emulsions prepared in examples 1, 2 and comparative examples 2, 3, 4, 6;

2. the test population: sex: woman, 140, age: between 30 and 50 years of age, health condition: the skin of the subject is healthy, no allergic history of the skin disease exists, the test subject accords with the volunteer selection standard, and the test subject is randomly divided into 7 groups of 20 persons.

3. The test method comprises the following steps: the skin elastic MPA580 master manufactured by CK company, germany, was used as a probe for revisometer RV600 elastic fiber tissue test, and the average was taken five times. Test area: the skin around the eyes. The skin elasticity index R2, R5, R7 values of the test area after 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks, 4 weeks (the negative pressure during the test is constant at 450 mbar) were measured after the test area was cleaned and the blank values (R2, R5, R7) were measured for 30min, and then the subject was prescribed to adhere to the above test article every morning and evening.

Specification of indexes: the closer the skin elasticity indices R2, R5, R7 are to 1, the better the elasticity of the skin.

R2＝Ua/Uf；R5＝Ur/Ue；R7＝Ur/Uf；

Uf — maximum skin stretch;

ue — the amount of stretching of the skin at 0.1 second after constant negative pressure is applied to the skin, the amount of stretching of the elastic portion is located;

ur-after negative pressure is eliminated, the skin can quickly recover to the original state, and the skin is also divided into an elastic part value Ur, namely, after the negative pressure is eliminated for 0.1 second, the recovery value and the viscoelastic part value, or called as a plastic part value, of the skin;

ua-the recovery value of the skin from the elimination of negative pressure to the next continuous test of the skin surface plus negative pressure.

3. The test results are shown in table 3.

Table 3 skin elasticity test results table

1. As can be seen from table 3, after the emulsion of example 2 of the present invention is used by the subject for the first week, R2, R5, and R7 have been increased significantly, and at week 4, R2, R5, and R7 have all increased significantly, and the values of R2, R5, and R7 are close to 1, the skin elasticity index of the subject has been increased greatly, so that the emulsion of the present invention has the effects of increasing skin elasticity and resisting aging;

2. in comparative example 1, the addition amounts of retinol palmitate, encapsulated retinol, and niacinamide were similar to those in example 2, but the effect was weaker than that in example 2, indicating that the combination and synergistic effect were weaker than those in example 2.

3. In comparative example 2, the amounts of the split yeast fermentation lysate, yeast/rice fermentation filtrate, soluble proteoglycan, and millettia leaf/stem extract added were similar to those of example 2, but the effect was weaker than that of example 2, indicating that the combination and synergistic effect were weaker than those of example 2.

4. In comparative example 3, the citrus peel extract, carnosine and 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid were added in amounts similar to those in example 2, but the effect was weaker than that in example 2, indicating that the combined and synergistic effects were weaker than those in example 2.

5. Comparative examples 4 to 6 were combinations of comparative examples 1 to 3 in pairs, and the addition amount was similar to that of example 2, but the effect was weaker than that of example 2, indicating that the combination and synergistic effect were weaker than that of example 2.

6. The anti-aging component of example 1 was added in a smaller total amount than the other control examples, but the effect was equal to or better than the control examples, and thus the synergistic effect of the combination of the present invention was remarkable.

7. The elasticity, smoothness and wrinkles of the skin can well reflect the aging condition of the skin, so the invention has good anti-aging effect.

The conclusion that the anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity provided by the invention is prepared into dosage forms such as aqua, essence or cream can be well achieved.

Stability test

Sample preparation: the product of example 2.

The test method comprises the following steps: the internal control standard (illumination for 1 month and high and low temperature test for 3 months) is higher than the national standard and the industrial standard.

The test results show that example 2 has good stability.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, but not intended to limit the present invention in any way, and therefore, any simple modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical spirit of the present invention are within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention without departing from the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. An anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:

retinol palmitate: 0.001-0.5 part;

encapsulation of retinol: 0.001-2 parts;

fermentation product: 0.0001-20 parts;

nicotinamide: 2-4 parts;

citrus peel extract: 2-4 parts;

soluble proteoglycan: 0.1-5 parts;

artocarpus heterophyllus leaf/stem extract: 0.1-5 parts;

carnosine: 0.001-0.2 parts;

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid: 0.001-3 parts;

the fermentation product is selected from the group consisting of a yeast bifidus fermentation lysate and a yeast/rice fermentation filtrate.

2. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the retinol palmitate to the encapsulated retinol is 1:1-100.

3. The antiaging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity as claimed in claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of retinol palmitate to encapsulated retinol is 1:10-50.

4. The antiaging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity as claimed in claim 3, wherein said niacinamide has a purity of 99% or more.

5. The anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity of claim 1, comprising 1 to 12 parts of a split yeast fermentation product lysate; 0.0001-8 parts of yeast/rice fermentation product filtrate.

6. The antiaging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity as claimed in claim 5, wherein the cosmetic base is further included in the balance by 100 parts by weight.

7. The antiaging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity as claimed in claim 6, wherein the cosmetic base comprises at least one of oils, emulsifiers, moisturizers, solvents, skin conditioners, thickeners, solubilizers, perfumes, preservatives.

8. Use of the anti-aging cosmetic composition for improving skin elasticity according to claim 7 for preparing at least one cosmetic formulation of astringent, lotion, essence, cream, and face cream.