CN111155222A - 一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法 - Google Patents

一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法 Download PDF

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CN111155222A
CN111155222A CN201911375582.0A CN201911375582A CN111155222A CN 111155222 A CN111155222 A CN 111155222A CN 201911375582 A CN201911375582 A CN 201911375582A CN 111155222 A CN111155222 A CN 111155222A
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fabric
wool
dyeing
decating
spinning
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李云珍
王秋实
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Hangzhou Smart Cashmere Products Co ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/025—Yarns or threads formed from hair
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
    • D06B1/02—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating by spraying or projecting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B15/00—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/50—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with hydrogen peroxide or peroxides of metals; with persulfuric, permanganic, pernitric, percarbonic acids or their salts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/227—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of hydrocarbons, or reaction products thereof, e.g. afterhalogenated or sulfochlorinated
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法，包括以下步骤：（1）精选羊毛纤维；（2）散染缸内处理羊毛纤维；（3）纺纱；（4）织物设计并织造；（5）织物的染整处理，具体操作为；（6）蒸呢处理。本发明的有益条件在于：成品糯滑、飘逸、柔软、高贵穿着舒适。

Description

一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法。
背景技术
羊绒面料，具有糯滑、飘逸、柔软、高贵穿着舒适等特点，制成衣物进行穿着舒适又保暖，广受消费者喜爱，而羊毛直接纺纱成布质感粗糙，舒适度差，无法直接进行穿着，而羊毛也同时具有很好的保暖效果，成本也低，为了能够合理利用羊毛，使得羊毛制成的布料能够达到羊绒布料的效果，我们就需要一种处理羊毛改性的方法。
发明内容
为解决上述问题，本发明的目的是提供一种成品糯滑、飘逸、柔软、高贵穿着舒适的纯羊毛面料的生产方法。
为实现上述目的，本发明的技术方案：
一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法，包括以下步骤：
（1）精选羊毛纤维：新选100%绵羊毛原料，平均细度≤18.5μm；
（2）散染缸内处理羊毛纤维：将选定的羊毛在散染缸内进行腐蚀处理，并对其修复；
（3）纺纱：将处理后的羊毛纤维进行纺纱，添加纺纱工艺中的和毛助剂及减少闷毛时间，以增加可纺性；
（4）织物设计并织造：找出适合面料成品规格要求的织物设计方案并实施织造成布；
（5）织物的染整处理，具体操作为：缩呢→染色→烘干→起毛→刺拉→剪毛→卷轴定型（并进行第二次腐蚀及修复）→烘干→烫剪；
（6）蒸呢处理：面料与蒸呢蒸布一起平均地进入蒸呢机，使面料在一定的汽压下蒸呢5分钟，使面料尺寸得以稳定。
作为优选，所述的步骤（5）中起毛后的产品用还原剂1%的水溶液加入卷轴机配液桶内，PH值调节至4-5，温度调节至40℃，用喷液装置喷洒于织物上，卷绕一定时间，折卷后用0.5%双氧水溶液，PH中性条件下，二浸二轧，并同时冲洗，将织物冲洗干净，再用改性聚二甲苯硅氧烷乳液1%的水溶液，室温，PH中性条件下将织物在染色机中处理30分钟，然后用改性聚乙烯蜡液0.5%，同浴处理30分钟，再烘干，修复变异的羊毛，同时填平鳞片。
作为优选，所述的步骤（5）中卷轴定型工艺的操作规范为：织物顺毛方向进入机台，在压辊作用下带液平整卷入小轴车上，使绒毛顺服，品质感增强。
本发明的有益条件在于：成品糯滑、飘逸、柔软、高贵穿着舒适。
具体实施方式
一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法，包括以下步骤：（1）精选羊毛纤维：新选100%绵羊毛原料，平均细度≤18.5μm；（2）散染缸内处理羊毛纤维：将选定的羊毛在散染缸内进行腐蚀处理，并对其修复；（3）纺纱：将处理后的羊毛纤维进行纺纱，添加纺纱工艺中的和毛助剂及减少闷毛时间，以增加可纺性；（4）织物设计并织造：找出适合面料成品规格要求的织物设计方案并实施织造成布；（5）织物的染整处理，具体操作为：缩呢→染色→烘干→起毛→刺拉→剪毛→卷轴定型（并进行第二次腐蚀及修复）→烘干→烫剪；（6）蒸呢处理：面料与蒸呢蒸布一起平均地进入蒸呢机，使面料在一定的汽压下蒸呢5分钟，使面料尺寸得以稳定。
所述的步骤（5）中起毛后的产品用还原剂1%的水溶液加入卷轴机配液桶内，PH值调节至4-5，温度调节至40℃，用喷液装置喷洒于织物上，卷绕一定时间，折卷后用0.5%双氧水溶液，PH中性条件下，二浸二轧，并同时冲洗，将织物冲洗干净，再用改性聚二甲苯硅氧烷乳液1%的水溶液，室温，PH中性条件下将织物在染色机中处理30分钟，然后用改性聚乙烯蜡液0.5%，同浴处理30分钟，再烘干，修复变异的羊毛，同时填平鳞片。所述的步骤（5）中卷轴定型工艺的操作规范为：织物顺毛方向进入机台，在压辊作用下带液平整卷入小轴车上，使绒毛顺服，品质感增强。
本发明的纺纱时添加纺纱工艺中的和毛助剂及减少闷毛时间，以增加可纺性，通过本发明的生产方法制得的布料绒毛顺服，品质感强，成品糯滑、飘逸、柔软、高贵穿着舒适。
本行业的技术人员应该了解，本发明不受上述实施例的限制，上述实施例和说明书中描述的只是说明本发明的原理，在不脱离本发明精神和范围的前提下，本发明还会有各种变化和改进，这些变化和改进都落入要求保护的本发明范围内。本发明要求保护范围由所附的权利要求书及其等效物界定。

Claims (3)

1.一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
（1）精选羊毛纤维：新选100%绵羊毛原料，平均细度≤18.5μm；
（2）散染缸内处理羊毛纤维：将选定的羊毛在散染缸内进行腐蚀处理，并对其修复；
（3）纺纱：将处理后的羊毛纤维进行纺纱，添加纺纱工艺中的和毛助剂及减少闷毛时间，以增加可纺性；
（4）织物设计并织造：找出适合面料成品规格要求的织物设计方案并实施织造成布；
（5）织物的染整处理，具体操作为：缩呢→染色→烘干→起毛→刺拉→剪毛→卷轴定型（并进行第二次腐蚀及修复）→烘干→烫剪；
（6）蒸呢处理：面料与蒸呢蒸布一起平均地进入蒸呢机，使面料在一定的汽压下蒸呢5分钟，使面料尺寸得以稳定。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述的步骤（5）中起毛后的产品用还原剂1%的水溶液加入卷轴机配液桶内，PH值调节至4-5，温度调节至40℃，用喷液装置喷洒于织物上，卷绕一定时间，折卷后用0.5%双氧水溶液，PH中性条件下，二浸二轧，并同时冲洗，将织物冲洗干净，再用改性聚二甲苯硅氧烷乳液1%的水溶液，室温，PH中性条件下将织物在染色机中处理30分钟，然后用改性聚乙烯蜡液0.5%，同浴处理30分钟，再烘干，修复变异的羊毛，同时填平鳞片。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述的步骤（5）中卷轴定型工艺的操作规范为：织物顺毛方向进入机台，在压辊作用下带液平整卷入小轴车上，使绒毛顺服，品质感增强。
CN201911375582.0A 2019-12-27 2019-12-27 一种纯羊毛面料的生产方法 Pending CN111155222A (zh)

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CN113564776A (zh) * 2021-07-12 2021-10-29 杭州圣玛特毛绒有限公司 一种粗梳仿羊绒双面混纺面料及其加工工艺

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113564776A (zh) * 2021-07-12 2021-10-29 杭州圣玛特毛绒有限公司 一种粗梳仿羊绒双面混纺面料及其加工工艺

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Application publication date: 20200515