CN110772454B - Skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil, and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil, and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN110772454B
CN110772454B CN201911289109.0A CN201911289109A CN110772454B CN 110772454 B CN110772454 B CN 110772454B CN 201911289109 A CN201911289109 A CN 201911289109A CN 110772454 B CN110772454 B CN 110772454B
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skin
essential oil
oil
moisturizing
lavender
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CN110772454A (en
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符春丽
田伟兰
汪垠明
汪羿典
祝荣梅
卢正美
汪翔
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Hubei Chuangjie Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/524Preservatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02PCLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P20/00Technologies relating to chemical industry
    • Y02P20/50Improvements relating to the production of bulk chemicals
    • Y02P20/54Improvements relating to the production of bulk chemicals using solvents, e.g. supercritical solvents or ionic liquids

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

The invention provides a compound essential oil, which combines the theory of traditional Chinese medicine, and the selected raw materials are sweet and neutral in taste, and the effects of dispelling black and brightening skin, resisting allergy, relieving, moisturizing and resisting aging are achieved through the compounding of damascus rose flower oil, lavender essential oil, jojoba seed oil, sweet almond oil, dog-tooth rose fruit oil and wheat germ oil, mutual blending, mutual matching and synergistic effect. The composite essential oil provided by the invention takes the plant essential oil as a raw material, so that the problems of low solubility, poor color, difficult absorption by skin and safety existing in the application of cosmetics are solved; the invention improves the stability of the active ingredients and simultaneously remarkably improves the skin care effects of anti-allergy relieving, anti-aging whitening, moisturizing and moisturizing. The compound essential oil provided by the invention has multiple effects of brightening skin, relieving and repairing skin, moisturizing skin, resisting aging and the like, so that the compound essential oil has a good market prospect.

Description

Skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil, and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composite essential oil with skin brightening, moisturizing, relieving and anti-aging effects, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Due to the influences of air pollution, the wide use of electronic products, radiation, stay up and other bad factors, various problems can appear in endocrine of people, and problems such as darkness, acnes, sensitivity, roughness and the like can appear on skin. The skin care products in the prior art have a plurality of effects of whitening, spot-lightening, anti-allergy, moisturizing and the like, but are mostly obtained by compounding effective substances with other auxiliary agents, wherein the content of the effective substances is low on one hand, and the molecular weight of most of the effective substances is large on the other hand, so that the effective substances are difficult to absorb by skin.
The essential oil is extracted from leaves, flowers, seeds, fruits, roots, barks, resins, wood cores and other parts of plants by steam distillation, cold pressing, fat absorption and solvent extraction, and has high concentration of aromatic and volatile substances. Essential oils are composed of a few very small molecules, the molecular chains of which are usually relatively short, making them very permeable to the skin and enter the body via abundant capillaries under subcutaneous fat. The single essential oil has single efficacy, and the compound essential oils can complement each other and enhance the curative effect through mutual coordination. However, the research on the compound essential oil at home and abroad is not deep, and the single essential oil with different effects is usually simply combined in the prior art. However, the compound essential oil has the problems of unobvious efficacy, low solubility, poor product color, difficult absorption by skin, low safety performance and the like, and needs to be additionally added with preservative.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides the compound essential oil comprising multiple components such as basic essential oil and efficacy essential oil, wherein the compound essential oil combines the cold and heat properties of the essential oil, harmonizes yin and yang balance of a human body and adjusts from inside to outside, so that the effect of improving the skin state from inside to outside is achieved, and the compound essential oil has the outstanding effects of whitening and brightening skin, relieving sensitivity and moisturizing.
The invention aims to provide a composite essential oil capable of brightening skin, moisturizing, relieving and resisting aging.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the composite essential oil capable of brightening skin, moisturizing, relieving and resisting aging.
The invention also aims to provide application of the composite essential oil for brightening skin, moisturizing, relieving and resisting aging.
According to the purpose of the invention, the invention provides a skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
0.1-15 parts of damascus rose flower oil;
0.1-40 parts of lavender essential oil;
1-50 parts of jojoba seed oil;
1-50 parts of sweet almond oil;
0.1-50 parts of Rosa canina fruit oil;
1-40 parts of wheat germ oil.
The compound essential oil provided by the invention is compounded by the damascus rose flower oil, the lavender essential oil, the jojoba seed oil, the sweet almond oil, the dog-tooth rose fruit oil and the wheat germ oil, combines a traditional Chinese medicine theory, and has sweet and flat raw material property, wherein the damascus rose flower oil and the lavender essential oil are used as main materials, the jojoba oil, the sweet almond oil and the dog-tooth rose fruit oil are used as base oils, and the plant preservative wheat germ oil is added to realize mutual cooperation and synergistic effect, so that the effects of good blackness dispelling, skin brightening, allergy relieving, moisturizing and aging resistance are achieved.
The compound essential oil provided by the invention contains lavender essential oil and wheat germ oil with certain antibacterial effect, and the lavender essential oil and the wheat germ oil interact with each other, so that the stability and the anti-corrosion performance of the compound essential oil are improved. The composite essential oil provided by the invention is safe and reliable in components, and can be kept unchanged for 3 years under the condition of no other preservative.
In order to better explain the present invention, the efficacy of each component is provided below.
The Rosa damascena flower oil contains vitamin C, triterpenes, fructose, organic acid, citronellol, geraniol, and multiple amino acids and microelements. Has effects of relieving pressure, removing scar, resisting allergy, whitening skin, regulating heart, stomach, liver and uterus, promoting blood circulation, removing blood stasis, relieving swelling and pain, and caring skin. The rosa damascena flower is oily and sweet, and calms down, enters stomach meridian and large intestine meridian.
The lavender essential oil is pungent in taste and cool in nature, and contains linalool oxide, linalool acetate, lavender ester acetate, lavender alcohol, borneol and the like, and has the effects of calming and hypnotizing, resisting depression, resisting bacteria, clearing heat and detoxicating, cleaning skin, controlling oil content, removing freckles and whitening, removing wrinkles and tendering skin, removing eye pouch dark circles, promoting regeneration of damaged tissues and the like.
Jojoba seed oil, also known as jojoba essential oil, is used for extracting jojoba seeds; jojoba seed oil is rich in vitamin D and protein, is a good moisturizing and moisturizing oil, can maintain skin moisture, prevent wrinkles and soften skin, is suitable for mature and aged skin, and is commonly used for facial and body massage and hair care.
Sweet almond is sweet in taste and neutral in nature, enters lung meridian and large intestine meridian. Sweet almond oil contains rich vitamins, is easy to absorb, has the effects of nourishing, keeping moisture, relieving and resisting allergy, and can promote cell growth; the sweet almond oil also contains minerals and proteins, and can relieve itching of skin and eliminate redness, dryness and inflammation.
The Rosa canina fruit oil contains abundant vitamin C, has the efficacy of being excited, is rich in unsaturated fatty acid, linoleic acid, vitamin A and other components, can prevent the water loss of epidermis, moisten skin, help the regeneration of horny layer, and has the efficacy of relieving skin, resisting oxidation, preventing wrinkles, whitening and reducing spots and the like.
The wheat germ oil is a cereal germ oil prepared from wheat malt, integrates the nutrition essence of wheat, is rich in vitamin E, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, octacosanol and various physiologically active components, and has the functions of regulating endocrine, reducing weight, preventing color spots, black spots and pigmentation; antioxidant effect, reduced lipid peroxide generation, and skin moisturizing effect, moisturizing skin, and antiaging; promoting metabolism and skin renewal, resisting wrinkle, preventing skin aging, and eliminating scar; regulating blood lipid, softening blood vessel, and preventing arteriosclerosis, hypertension and apoplexy.
The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil preferably comprises the following components in parts by weight:
3 parts of damascus rose flower oil;
30 parts of lavender essential oil;
17 parts of jojoba seed oil;
20 parts of sweet almond oil;
20 parts of Rosa canina fruit oil;
10 parts of wheat germ oil.
The compound essential oil provided by the invention is researched by the inventor, and has the effects of brightening skin, relieving and repairing, moisturizing and resisting aging, which are related to the composition of each component, and also have important relationship with the weight ratio of each component.
The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil preferably comprises the following preparation method of lavender essential oil: mixing fresh lavender and dry lavender according to a weight ratio of 1-3:1, standing at-15 to-10 ℃ for 10-12 hours, adding water which is 3-5 times of the total weight of the lavender, adding lysozyme which is 0.1-0.2% of the total weight of the lavender, carrying out enzymolysis for 30-60 minutes at 25-35 ℃, then inactivating enzyme for 10-20 minutes at 100-105 ℃ to obtain a lavender aqueous solution, carrying out supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, separation, concentration and drying on the lavender aqueous solution to obtain the lavender essential oil.
Further preferably, the conditions of the supercritical carbon dioxide extraction are: the flow rate is 25-30L/h, the pressure is 5-10 MPa, and the extraction time is 60-150 min.
According to the preparation method of the lavender essential oil, the fresh and dried lavender is blended, the freezing treatment method is carried out, then enzymolysis is carried out, the cell structure of the lavender is damaged, so that the content in the lavender cells is effectively dissociated, then supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is carried out, and the yield of the lavender essential oil is improved.
The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil is preferably prepared by taking sweet almond, soaking, peeling, drying, crushing, soxhlet extraction and distillation to obtain the sweet almond oil; further preferably, the extraction method is to add crushed sweet almond into 75% ethanol water solution with volume fraction, and distill and extract at 85-95 ℃.
The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil, preferably, the preparation method of the dog tooth rose fruit oil comprises the following steps: taking dry Rosa canina fruits, crushing, sieving, adding into water with the weight being 3-5 times that of the dry Rosa canina fruits, adding 1.5-3% of complex enzyme, adjusting the pH to 4-5, carrying out enzymolysis for 3-5 hours at 35-55 ℃, inactivating enzyme for 10-20 minutes at 100-105 ℃, carrying out reflux extraction, separating, concentrating, and drying to obtain the Rosa canina fruit oil.
The Rosa canina fruit oil provided by the invention is prepared by crushing Rosa canina fruits, carrying out enzymolysis under an acidic condition, and then carrying out reflux extraction, and has high yield and retained active ingredients.
Further preferably, the compound enzyme is cellulase and pectase, and the weight ratio of the cellulase to the pectase is 3-5:1.
Further preferably, the condition of the reflux extraction is that the temperature is 75-85 ℃, and the reflux extraction is 60-120 min.
The invention provides a preparation method of the skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging composite essential oil, which comprises the following steps: firstly, taking lavender essential oil, then adding the rosa damascena flower oil into the lavender essential oil drop by drop, and uniformly mixing; then sequentially and dropwise adding the Rosa canina fruit oil, the jojoba seed oil and the sweet almond oil, uniformly mixing, adding the wheat germ oil, and uniformly mixing to obtain the compound essential oil.
According to the preparation method provided by the invention, firstly, lavender essential oil with a relatively low volatilization speed in main essential oil is taken, then, damascus rose flower oil with a relatively high volatilization speed is dropwise added, so that the volatilization speed of the essential oil is slowed down, then, base oil is added, the base oil is added according to the sequence of dog rose fruit oil, jojoba seed oil and sweet almond oil, and finally, wheat germ oil with a preservative effect is added; the preparation method provided by the invention can slow down the volatilization speed of the essential oil, improve the stability of the essential oil and improve the fragrance level of the essential oil.
The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil can be applied to cosmetics, preferably, the dosage of the compound essential oil in the cosmetics is 0.0025-20wt%, and even more preferably, the dosage of the compound essential oil in the cosmetics is 0.0025-0.01wt%, namely 25-100 mg/L.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:
1. the compound essential oil provided by the invention is compounded by the damascus rose flower oil, the lavender essential oil, the jojoba seed oil, the sweet almond oil, the dog-tooth rose fruit oil and the wheat germ oil, combines a traditional Chinese medicine theory, and has sweet and flat raw material property, wherein the damascus rose flower oil and the lavender essential oil are used as main materials, the jojoba oil, the sweet almond oil and the dog-tooth rose fruit oil are used as base oils, and the plant preservative wheat germ oil is added to realize mutual cooperation and synergistic effect, so that the effects of dispelling black and brightening skin, resisting allergy, relieving, supplementing water and keeping moisture are achieved.
2. The compound essential oil provided by the invention contains lavender essential oil and wheat germ oil with certain antibacterial effect, and the lavender essential oil and the wheat germ oil interact with each other, so that the stability and the anti-corrosion performance of the compound essential oil are improved. The composite essential oil provided by the invention is safe and reliable in components, and can be kept unchanged for 3 years under the condition of no other preservative.
3. The compound essential oil provided by the invention takes the plant essential oil as a raw material, solves the problems of low solubility, influence on the color of the product, difficult absorption by skin, safety and the like existing in the application of cosmetics, and obviously improves the skin care effect while improving the stability of the active ingredients. The compound essential oil provided by the invention has multiple effects of brightening skin, relieving and repairing skin, moisturizing skin, resisting aging and the like, so that the compound essential oil has a good development prospect.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the technical solutions of the present invention will be described in detail below. It will be apparent that the described embodiments are only some, but not all, embodiments of the invention. All other embodiments, based on the examples herein, which are within the scope of the invention as defined by the claims, will be within the scope of the invention as defined by the claims.
The present invention provides examples 1 to 10 wherein the composition of each component is shown in Table 1, wherein 1g per 1 part by weight.
TABLE 1 composition of the components of examples 1 to 10
In embodiments 1 to 10 of the present invention, the preparation method of the lavender essential oil comprises: mixing fresh lavender and dry lavender according to a weight ratio of 1-3:1, standing at-15 to-10 ℃ for 10-12 h, adding water which is 3-5 times of the total weight of the lavender, adding lysozyme which is 0.1-0.2% of the total weight of the lavender, carrying out enzymolysis for 30-60 min at 25-35 ℃, and then inactivating enzyme for 10-20 min at 100-105 ℃ to obtain a lavender aqueous solution, and carrying out supercritical carbon dioxide extraction on the lavender aqueous solution, wherein the supercritical carbon dioxide extraction conditions are as follows: the flow rate is 25-30L/h, the pressure is 5-10 MPa, the extraction time is 60-150 min, and the lavender essential oil is obtained through separation, concentration and drying;
the preparation method of the sweet almond oil comprises the steps of taking sweet almond, soaking, peeling, drying, crushing and Soxhlet extraction, wherein the extraction method comprises the steps of adding the crushed sweet almond into an ethanol water solution with the volume fraction of 75%, and distilling and extracting at the temperature of 85-95 ℃ to obtain the sweet almond oil;
the preparation method of the Rosa canina fruit oil comprises the following steps: taking dry fructus rosae canina, crushing, sieving, adding into water with the weight being 3-5 times that of the dry fructus rosae canina, adding 1.5-3% of compound enzyme which is cellulase and pectase, regulating the pH to 4-5 according to the weight ratio of 3-5:1, carrying out enzymolysis for 3-5 hours at 35-55 ℃, inactivating enzyme for 10-20 minutes at 100-105 ℃, carrying out reflux extraction under the condition that the temperature is 75-85 ℃, carrying out reflux extraction for 60-120 minutes, separating, concentrating, and drying to obtain the fructus rosae canina oil.
The preparation method of the skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil in examples 1-10 comprises the following steps: firstly, taking lavender essential oil, then adding the rosa damascena flower oil into the lavender essential oil drop by drop, and uniformly mixing; then sequentially and dropwise adding the Rosa canina fruit oil, the jojoba seed oil and the sweet almond oil, uniformly mixing, adding the wheat germ oil, and uniformly mixing to obtain the compound essential oil.
Comparative example
The present invention provides comparative examples 1-6, the compositions of the components of comparative examples 1-6 are shown in Table 2, wherein 1g per 1 part by weight.
TABLE 2 composition of the components of comparative examples 1 to 6
Test examples
1. Experimental part
1.1 materials and instruments
1.1.1 materials
The Rosa damascena flower oil, jojoba seed oil and wheat germ oil in the plant essential oil for the test are provided by Beijing interconnected new era biotechnology limited company, and other components are prepared according to the scheme provided by the invention;
mouse melanoma cells (B16), a pool of Shanghai cells from the national academy of sciences;
sheep erythrocyte suspension with mass fraction of 2%, guangzhou Hongquan biotechnology limited company;
dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), tetramethylazoblue (MTT), tyrosinase, sigma;
l-tyrosine, sodium deoxycholate, sodium hydroxide, sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), hydrochloric acid, absolute ethyl alcohol, national medicine group chemical reagent Co., ltd;
M-RPMI-1640 medium, fetal Bovine Serum (FBS), 100 Xpenicillin-streptomycin solution, 0.25% trypsin-EDTA solution by mass fraction, phosphate Buffer (PBS), thermo company, USA.
1.1.2 instruments
Corneometer CM825 skin moisture content tester, tewameterTM300 moisture transdermal loss tester, MPA9-GL200 skin gloss tester, MPA9-CL400 skin color difference tester, mexammeterMX 18 skin melanin and heme tester, MPA580 skin elasticity tester, germany CK company;
VISIA-CR facial image analysis System, canfield, USA; HL-2B digital display constant flow pump, shanghai Jiapeng science and technology Co., ltd;
2695 analytical high performance liquid chromatograph, waters company, usa;
RE-52AA rotary evaporator, shanghai Asia Biochemical instruments factory;
a freeze dryer, christ, germany;
LunaC18 column (250 mm×4.60mm×5 μm), phenomenex corporation, usa;
eon microplate reader, bioTek company, usa;
SmartCell type carbon dioxide incubator, a company of the state of the art of biological medical science, of well-being;
SW-CJ-ZF ultra-clean bench, shanghai BoXie Co., ltd;
TDZS-WS centrifuge, hunan Instrument centrifuge instruments Co., ltd;
LDZX-50KBS vertical autoclave, shanghai Shen An medical equipment factory.
1.2 Experimental methods
1.2.1 in vitro experiments of skin lightening and soothing repair efficacy
The following experimental group used the complex essential oils of examples 1 to 10, wherein the experimental group one used the complex essential oil obtained in example 1, the experimental group two used the complex essential oil obtained in example 2, and so on. The essential oils of comparative examples 1 to 6 were used for the comparative group, the essential oil of comparative example 1 was used for the comparative group I, the essential oil of comparative example 2 was used for the comparative group II, and so on. The control group used beta-arbutin.
Culture of 1.2.1.1B16 cells
The essential oils obtained in positive control (. Beta. -arbutin), examples 1 to 10 and comparative examples 1 to 6 were dissolved in RPMI-1640 medium, respectively, and the mass concentrations were set to be 12.5, 25, 50 and 100mg/L, respectively, and were filtered and sterilized with a 0.22 μm aqueous filter membrane for use.
RPMI-1640 culture solution containing 10% fetal bovine serum by volume fraction was used at 37deg.C with volume fraction of 5% CO 2 B16 cells were cultured under the conditions. When the cells grow to be close to a fusion state, the cells are digested by trypsin with the mass fraction of 0.25%, and the cell density is collected and adjusted to be 5 multiplied by 10 4 mu.L of each well was inoculated into a 96-well plate at a volume fraction of 5% CO at 37℃to 200. Mu.L of the culture medium 2 After the culture is carried out overnight in the environment, 200 mu L of test substance solutions with different concentrations are added into each hole after the adherence, 6 compound holes are arranged in each concentration, fresh culture solution is added into a blank control group, and the culture is continued for 48 hours.
Determination of 1.2.1.2B16 cell proliferation Rate
After 48h of treatment of the test substance, 20. Mu.L of MTT solution of 5mg/mL is added to each well, the mixture is incubated for 4h in an incubator, the supernatant is discarded, 150. Mu.L of DMSO is added to each well, the mixture is shaken for 10min, and the absorbance OD of each well at 570nm is measured by an enzyme-labeled instrument after uniform mixing. The cell proliferation rate was calculated according to the following formula:
cell proliferation rate (%) = (OD Experimental hole -OD Blank hole )/(OD Blank control wells -OD Blank hole )×100%
Determination of relative inhibition Rate of tyrosinase Activity in 1.2.1.3B16 cells
After the test object is treated for 48 hours, absorbing supernatant, adding 50 mu L of TritonX-100 aqueous solution with the mass fraction of 1% into each hole, rapidly freezing and storing in a refrigerator with the temperature of 80 ℃ for 30 minutes, taking out, melting for 20 minutes at the temperature of 37 ℃ to completely break cells, adding 10 mu L of L-DOPA solution with the mass fraction of 1% into each hole, placing in a constant-temperature water bath with the temperature of 37 ℃ for reaction for 30 minutes, and measuring the absorbance OD at 475nm by using an enzyme marker. The relative inhibition of tyrosinase activity was calculated according to the following formula:
relative inhibition of tyrosinase activity (%) = (1-OD) Experimental hole /OD Blank control wells )×100%
Determination of melanin content in 1.2.1.4B16 cells
After the test object is treated for 48 hours, the supernatant is sucked and removed, after the precipitated cells are blown into suspension by PBS buffer solution, 1mL of cell suspension is sucked into a centrifuge tube, after centrifugation for 10 minutes at 1500r/min, the supernatant is removed, 200 mu LPBS buffer solution is firstly added to enable the cells to be resuspended, then 1mL of ethanol-diethyl ether solution (volume ratio is 1:1) is added, standing is carried out for 20 minutes at room temperature, centrifugation is carried out for 5 minutes at 3000r/min, the supernatant is removed, 1mL of 1mol/LNaOH solution containing 10% of DMSO by mass fraction is added, water bath is carried out for 45 minutes at 80 ℃, and the absorbance OD is measured at 405nm by an enzyme-labeled instrument. The intracellular melanin content was calculated according to the following formula:
intracellular relative melanin content (%) =od Experimental hole /OD Blank control wells ×100%
1.2.1.5 determination of human skin fibroblast proliferation Activity
Dissolving in dimethyl sulfoxide, filtering with 0.2mm aseptic filter head, sterilizing, and preparing culture medium containing 10% sample with DMEM culture solution. Obtaining human skin fibroblast by tissue block culture method, adding 0.25% trypsin 1mL for digestion, centrifuging, adding DMEM culture solution for resuspension, counting, and diluting to cell concentration of 1×10 5 Per mL, 100mL per well in 96-well plates. Culturing for 48h, observing the cell wall under a lens, and sucking the culture medium in the hole. At 37℃5% CO 2 Taking 4 holes for each group after standing culture for 24 hours, 48 hours and 72 hours in an incubator, adding 20mLMTT solution into each hole, and adding CO 2 Incubation was continued for 4h in an incubator, 150mL of dimethyl sulfoxide was added to each well, and after shaking at low speed on a constant temperature shaker for 10min, the absorbance value of each well was measured at 490nm on an microplate reader.
1.2.2 human body experiments with skin Care efficacy
The following experimental group used the complex essential oils of examples 1 to 10, wherein the experimental group one used the complex essential oil obtained in example 1, the experimental group two used the complex essential oil obtained in example 2, and so on. The essential oils of comparative examples 1 to 6 were used for the comparative group, the essential oil of comparative example 1 was used for the comparative group I, the essential oil of comparative example 2 was used for the comparative group II, and so on. The control group used beta-arbutin.
1.2.2.1 evaluation of emollient efficacy
51 eligible subjects (aged 22-42 years) were selected for testing at a temperature of (22+ -2deg.C and a relative humidity of (50+ -5%). Before the test, 3 tested areas (each area is 4cm multiplied by 4 cm) are marked on the inner side of the crank arm of the subject, the tested areas are washed by clean water uniformly, the subjects are randomly divided into 17 groups with the same number, 3 persons are in each group, and the control group is divided into groups with the volume of 2ml/cm 2 Beta-arbutin is smeared, and the experimental group is 2ml/cm 2 The compound essential oils of examples 1 to 10 were applied at a rate of 2ml/cm in the comparative group 2 The essential oils of comparative examples 1 to 6 were applied. After the subjects used samples 1, 2 and 4 hours, the skin moisture content (MMV) and the percutaneous moisture loss (TEWL) of the skin of the 3 test areas of the subjects were measured by using a skin moisture content tester and a moisture loss tester, respectively, and the average value was obtained.
1.2.2.2 evaluation of anti-aging efficacy
48 eligible subjects (aged 22-42 years) were selected for testing at a temperature of (22+ -2deg.C and a relative humidity of (50+ -5%). Before testing, 1 test area was marked on each of the outer sides of both cheeks and both corners of eyes of the subject (i.e., a total of 4 test areas were marked, each area being 4cm×4 cm), and the test areas were washed with clear water in a unified manner. The test or comparison sample is applied to one side of the subject, and the control sample is applied to the other side of the subject, once a day, each time the sample is applied at a dose of 2ml/cm 2 The skin elasticity R2 and Q2 values were measured by a skin elasticity tester and averaged, and the moisture content MMV of the skin in 4 test areas of the subject was measured by a return visit at 15 and 30 days after continuous application for 30 days.
1.2.2.3 evaluation of skin lightening efficacy
Subject screening, grouping and experimental methods were the same as 1.2.2.2, and the subjects were interviewed at 15 and 30d, and the skin melanin content (MI), skin brightness (ITA °), and glossiness of each test area of the subjects were measured and averaged.
1.2.3 data analysis
Experimental data was developed using the Duncan test analysis in SPSS20 software one-way variance (ANOVA)The literature shows that the calculated result is calculated as the mean value + -standard deviationExpressed as p<0.05 was statistically different.
2 results and discussion
2.1 in vitro experiments and results of skin lightening and soothing repair efficacy
2.1.1 Effect on proliferation of B16 cells
The present invention provides the effect of each group on proliferation of B16 cells, and the proliferation rate of B16 cells after treatment with samples of different mass concentrations is shown in table 3.
Table 3 influence of groups on proliferation rate (%) of B16 cells
Note that: the smaller the number, the lower the cell proliferation rate, indicating a better cell inhibition effect.
From Table 3, it can be seen that, in the mass of 4 groups of samples of 12.5, 25, 50 and 100mg/L, the comparison shows that the proliferation rate of B16 cells of the experimental group is generally lower than that of B16 cells of the comparison group, and the proliferation rate of B16 cells of the comparison group is lower than that of the comparison group, so that the essential oil after compounding has better inhibition effect than that of the single essential oil, has skin brightening and whitening effects, and the compound essential oil has synergistic effect. Meanwhile, the comparison shows that the proliferation rate of the B16 cells of the experimental group II, namely the compound essential oil group provided by the embodiment 2 is the lowest, which shows that the effect of the experimental group II on inhibiting the proliferation of the B16 cells is very remarkable (p < 0.05).
2.1.2 Effect on tyrosinase activity in B16 cells
The results of the present invention, which provide relative inhibition of tyrosinase activity in B16 cells by sample treatments of different mass concentrations, are shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 relative inhibition of tyrosinase activity in B16 cells by different samples (%)
Note that: the inhibition of tyrosinase activity gradually increases with increasing concentration
Tyrosinase is an important influencing factor in melanin synthesis, and the influence of the compound essential oil provided by the research on the activity of tyrosinase is studied. As can be seen from Table 4, the essential oils provided in the examples and comparative examples have an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity in B16 cells, and exhibit a dose-dependent relationship, wherein the inhibitory effect of the complex essential oil provided in the examples on tyrosinase activity is more remarkable. In the mass of 4 groups of samples of 12.5, 25, 50 and 100mg/L, the relative inhibition rate of the experimental group on the tyrosinase activity in B16 cells is generally higher than that of the comparative group, and the relative inhibition rate of the comparative group on the tyrosinase activity in B16 cells is higher than that of the comparative group, which indicates that the essential oil after compounding has better effect on the tyrosinase activity than that of the single essential oil, has the skin brightening and whitening effects, and each component in the compound essential oil provided by the invention has the synergistic effect. The comparison shows that the relative inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity of the experimental group II is highest, which indicates that the inhibition effect of the experimental group II on tyrosinase activity in B16 cells is very remarkable (p < 0.05).
2.1.3 Effect on melanin content in B16 cells
The effects of examples 1 to 10, comparative examples 1 to 6 and positive control groups on B16 cell melanin production at different concentrations were examined, and the results are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 Effect of different samples on melanin content in B16 cells
As can be seen from table 5, the compound essential oil can significantly inhibit melanin synthesis in cells, and the melanin synthesis inhibition rate significantly increases with increasing concentration, and is concentration-dependent. As can be seen from table 5, in the 4 groups of sample masses of 12.5, 25, 50 and 100mg/L, the inhibition rate of melanin synthesis in the B16 cells of the experimental group is generally higher than that of the B16 cells of the comparison group, and the inhibition rate of melanin synthesis in the B16 cells of the comparison group is higher than that of the comparison group, which indicates that the essential oil after compounding has better effect on melanin synthesis inhibition rate than that of the single essential oil, and has the effects of brightening and whitening skin; the compound essential oil plays a role in synergy in whitening and brightening skin. The comparison shows that the inhibition rate of the melanin synthesis of the experimental group II is highest, which indicates that the inhibition effect of the melanin synthesis in the B16 cells of the experimental group II is very remarkable (p < 0.05).
2.1.4 determination of fibroblast proliferation Activity on human skin
The effect of the sample-free group on human skin fibroblast regeneration was studied by examining the absorbance values of the human skin fibroblasts at different times by examples 1 to 10, comparative examples 1 to 6 and positive control groups, and the results are shown in Table 6.
TABLE 6 absorbance values of human skin fibroblasts at different times for different groups
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Note that: the higher the absorbance, the better the effect of promoting cell regeneration, and the better the repair effect of injured tissues can be promoted
From the results shown in Table 6, it is evident that essential oils have a cell regeneration promoting effect on human skin fibroblasts, promote repair of injured tissues, and increase absorbance with time, and are concentration-dependent. In the time values of 24h, 48h and 72h, the light absorption value of the experimental group is generally higher than that of the comparison group and the light absorption value of the comparison group is higher than that of the comparison group through comparison, so that the effect of the compounded essential oil on promoting regeneration and repairing of human skin fibroblasts is better than that of single essential oil, and the compound essential oil can play a role in cooperatively repairing regeneration and repairing of human skin fibroblasts. The results in Table 6 show that the compound essential oil provided by the invention has a remarkable effect of promoting cell regeneration, and can promote the repair of injured tissues, thereby achieving the purposes of skin tendering and relieving repair. Meanwhile, the comparison shows that the absorbance of the experimental group II is highest compared with other groups, which shows that the experimental group II has very remarkable effect of promoting regeneration and repair of human skin fibroblasts (p < 0.05).
In summary, the results from tables 3 to 6 show that the composite essential oil provided by examples 1 to 10 of the present invention has the effects of obviously and remarkably promoting fibroblast repair, inhibiting melanin generation, whitening and lightening spots, and relieving repair, and the effects of inhibiting tyrosinase activity, inhibiting melanin generation and promoting fibroblast repair of the composite essential oil provided by comparative examples 1 to 6, and the components in the composite essential oil provided by the present invention have synergistic effects.
2.2 results of human experiments on skin moisturizing efficacy
2.2.1 Effect on skin moisture content MMV
The effects of examples 1 to 10, comparative examples 1 to 6 and positive control groups on the moisture content of human skin within 4 hours were examined, and the results are shown in Table 7.
TABLE 7 variation of skin moisture content within 4h
From the results in table 7, it can be seen from comparison that in the test period of 4 hours, the skin moisture content MMV value of the experimental group is generally higher than the light absorption value of the comparison group and the skin moisture content MMV value of the comparison group is higher than the skin moisture content MMV value of the comparison group, which indicates that the essential oil after compounding has better moisturizing effect than the single essential oil, and each component in the compound essential oil provided by the invention has synergistic effect. The MMV values of the skin moisture content of the experimental group two were higher than those of the other groups, 22.67±3.32 at 0h, 48.99 ±5.14 at 1h, 42.59 ±5.68 at 2h and 38.68+6.45 at 4h, which indicates that the essential oil was not completely absorbed by the human body immediately after the initial use, and the moisture content of the skin gradually increased after the absorption of the skin, and good maintenance was achieved, and the moisture content of the skin was maintained at a high level after the passage of 4 h. The experiment shows that the compound essential oil provided by the invention has good moisturizing effect, wherein the effect of the experiment group II on moisturizing skin is very remarkable (p is less than 0.05).
2.2.2 Effect on percutaneous Water loss (TEWL value)
The TEWL value is an index for measuring the skin moisturizing performance, and the smaller the TEWL value is, the less the water loss through the skin is, namely the stronger the water-locking moisturizing capability is. The results of the inventive study on the TEWL values of the percutaneous water loss in each test area are shown in Table 8.
TABLE 8 variation of the percutaneous moisture loss TEWL values
From the results in table 8, it can be seen that in the test period of 4 hours, the TEWL value of the experimental group is generally lower than that of the comparative group, and the TEWL value of the comparative group is lower than that of the comparative group, which indicates that the essential oil after compounding has better effects of reducing the skin moisture loss, moisturizing, locking and moisturizing than the single essential oil, and the compound essential oil has a synergistic effect. The comparison shows that the percutaneous water loss (TEWL value) of the experimental group II is the lowest compared with other groups, which indicates that the experimental group II has the functions of reducing the skin water loss, moisturizing and locking water, and has very obvious effect of moisturizing the skin (p < 0.05).
In summary, the results from tables 7 to 8 show that the compound essential oil provided by examples 1 to 10 of the present invention has the effects of obviously and remarkably reducing the loss of skin moisture and improving the skin moisture content compared with the single essential oil provided by comparative examples 1 to 6 and the beta-arbutin provided by the positive control group, and the skin moisturizing effect of the compound essential oil provided by the present invention is far higher than that of the single essential oil, which indicates that the components in the compound essential oil provided by the present invention interact in the aspect of moisturizing, so as to achieve the synergistic effect.
2.3 human body experiment results of anti-aging efficacy
2.3.1 Effect on skin moisture content MMV
The effects of examples 1 to 10, comparative examples 1 to 6 and positive control groups on the moisture content of human skin within 30 days were examined, and the results are shown in Table 9.
Table 9 MMV change in skin moisture content in 30 days
From the results in table 9, it can be seen that in 30d tested, the skin moisture content MMV value of the experimental group is generally higher than that of the control group, and the skin moisture content MMV value of the control group is higher than that of the control group, which indicates that the essential oil after compounding has better effects of moisturizing and delaying aging than the single essential oil, and the components of the compound essential oil provided by the invention have the effects of synergistically increasing moisturizing and resisting fatigue. Meanwhile, the comparison shows that the MMV value of the skin moisture content of the experimental group II is highest compared with other groups, which indicates that the compound essential oil used by the experimental group II has good moisturizing effect on human skin for a long time, and the increase of the skin moisture content also improves the anti-aging capability of the skin, so that the compound essential oil provided by the invention has good moisturizing effect and anti-aging effect, wherein the moisturizing and anti-aging effect of the compound essential oil provided by the embodiment 2 used by the experimental group II is very remarkable (p < 0.05).
2.3.2 effects on the skin elasticity R2, Q2 values
The effects of examples 1 to 10, comparative examples 1 to 6 and positive control groups on skin elasticity were examined, and the results are shown in tables 10 and 11.
Table 10R 2 values for skin elasticity for 30 days
TABLE 11 skin elasticity Q2 values in 30 days
Note that: the closer the skin elasticity R2 value and Q2 value are to 1, the better the skin elasticity.
From the results in tables 10 and 11, it can be seen that in 30d tested, the values of skin elasticity R2 and Q2 of the experimental group are generally higher than those of the comparative group, and the values of skin elasticity R2 and Q2 of the comparative group are higher than those of the comparative group, which indicates that the effects of improving skin elasticity of the compounded essential oil are better than those of the single essential oil, and the components in the compound essential oil are mutually matched, so that the effect of synergistically improving skin elasticity is achieved. Meanwhile, the comparison shows that the values of the skin elasticity R2 and Q2 of the experimental group II are highest compared with other groups, which shows that the effect of improving the skin elasticity of the experimental group II is very remarkable (p < 0.05).
In summary, the results from tables 9 to 11 show that the compound essential oil provided by examples 1 to 10 of the present invention has the effects of significantly improving and maintaining skin moisture and improving skin elasticity, compared with the single essential oil provided by comparative examples 1 to 6, and the beta-arbutin provided by the positive control group, which shows that the compound essential oil provided by the present invention has the effects of significantly maintaining and improving skin moisture and improving skin elasticity, and the components in the compound essential oil provided by the present invention can interact, synergistically improve the effects of moisturizing and improving skin elasticity, and has good anti-aging effects.
2.4 results of human experiments with skin lightening efficacy
2.4.1 Effect on skin melanin content MI value
The effects of the present invention on skin melanin content of examples 1 to 10, comparative examples 1 to 6 and positive control groups were tested, and the results are shown in Table 12.
Table 12 change in skin melanin content values for 30 days
Note that: the lower the MI value, the better the effect in whitening the clean skin and lightening melanin.
From the results in table 12, it can be seen that, in 30d of the test, the skin melanin content MI value of the experimental group is generally lower than that of the control group, and the skin melanin content MI value of the control group is lower than that of the control group, which indicates that the essential oil after compounding has better effects of brightening skin and fading melanin than the single essential oil, and the components in the compound essential oil provided by the invention synergistically increase, so that the effects of brightening skin and fading melanin are good. Meanwhile, the comparison shows that the MI value of the melanin content of the skin of the experimental group II is the lowest compared with other groups, which proves that the experimental group II has very remarkable effect (p < 0.05) in whitening and smoothing skin and fading melanin.
2.4.2 effects on skin Brightness ITA value
The effect of the present invention on skin brightness of examples 1 to 10, comparative examples 1 to 6 and positive control group was tested, and the results are shown in Table 13.
TABLE 13 variation of skin brightness values within 30 days
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Note that: the ITA value is a value related to L and b that characterizes skin brightness, the greater the ITA value, the brighter the skin, and conversely the darker the skin.
As can be seen from the results of table 13, within 30d of the test, it was found by comparison that the skin brightness ita° value of the experimental group was generally higher than that of the control group, and that the control group was higher than that of the control group. This shows that the compound essential oil provided by the invention has more remarkable skin brightening effect compared with the single essential oil, and the interaction among the components in the compound essential oil provided by the invention can synergistically improve the skin brightening effect. The skin brightness ITA ° value of experimental group two was highest compared to the other groups, indicating that the effect of improving brightness of experimental group two was very significant (p < 0.05).
2.4.3 effects on skin gloss
The effect of the present invention on skin gloss of examples 1 to 10, comparative examples 1 to 6 and positive control group was tested and the results are shown in Table 14.
Table 14 change in skin gloss in 30 days
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Skin gloss is a value that characterizes the shininess of the skin surface. From the results shown in table 14, the skin glossiness value of the experimental group is generally higher than that of the control group and the skin glossiness value of the control group is higher than that of the control group in 30d of the test, which indicates that the compound essential oil provided by the invention has more remarkable effect than the single essential oil in improving the skin glossiness, and fully indicates that the components in the compound essential oil provided by the invention are interacted to jointly achieve the effect of improving the skin glossiness. The highest skin gloss value for the second experimental group compared with the other groups, indicated that the effect of the second experimental group on the shiny skin was very remarkable (p < 0.05).
In summary, the results from table 12 to table 14 show that the compound essential oil provided by examples 1 to 10 of the present invention has the effects of remarkably reducing melanin content, improving skin brightness and improving skin glossiness as compared with the single essential oil provided by comparative examples 1 to 6, and the compound essential oil provided by the present invention has the obvious skin brightening effect as compared with the single essential oil, and the components in the compound essential oil provided by the present invention can interact to cooperatively improve melanin content, skin brightness and skin glossiness, and has good skin brightening effect.
The invention researches the effects of brightening skin, relieving and repairing skin, moisturizing skin and resisting aging of the single essential oil, the composite essential oil provided by the invention and the beta-arbutin in a control group. Compared with single essential oil and beta-arbutin, the compound essential oil provided by the invention has the effects of obviously inhibiting tyrosinase activity, inhibiting melanin formation, improving skin brightness and glossiness, promoting regeneration and repair of skin fibroblasts, tendering skin, resisting aging and relieving. The invention shows that the components in the compound essential oil have interaction, and the effects of synergistic moisturizing, skin brightening, whitening, relieving and anti-aging can be achieved. From the experimental results, it can be seen that the second experimental group using the compound essential oil provided by the embodiment 2 of the invention has more outstanding effects, not only has remarkable effects of improving skin brightness and glossiness and reducing skin melanin content, but also has good effects of promoting regeneration and repairing of human skin fibroblasts, achieving the purposes of skin tendering and relieving repair, and simultaneously can reduce transdermal water loss to achieve the effects of moisturizing and resisting aging, and can also achieve the effect of delaying skin aging by improving the water content and skin elasticity.
The foregoing is merely illustrative of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art will readily recognize that variations or substitutions are within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the claims.

Claims (9)

1. The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
0.1-15 parts of damascus rose flower oil;
0.1-40 parts of lavender essential oil;
1-50 parts of jojoba seed oil; 1-50 parts of sweet almond oil;
0.1-50 parts of Rosa canina fruit oil;
1-40 parts of wheat germ oil;
the preparation method of the lavender essential oil comprises the following steps: mixing fresh lavender and dry lavender according to a weight ratio of 1-3:1, standing at-15 to-10 ℃ for 10-12 hours, adding water which is 3-5 times of the total weight of the lavender, adding lysozyme which is 0.1-0.2% of the total weight of the lavender, carrying out enzymolysis for 30-60 minutes at 25-35 ℃, then inactivating enzyme for 10-20 minutes at 100-105 ℃ to obtain a lavender aqueous solution, carrying out supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, separation, concentration and drying on the lavender aqueous solution to obtain the lavender essential oil.
2. The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
3 parts of damascus rose flower oil;
30 parts of lavender essential oil;
17 parts of jojoba seed oil;
20 parts of sweet almond oil;
20 parts of Rosa canina fruit oil;
10 parts of wheat germ oil.
3. The skin-lightening, moisturizing, soothing, anti-aging compound essential oil of claim 1, wherein the supercritical carbon dioxide extraction conditions are: the flow rate is 25-30L/h, the pressure is 5-10 MPa, and the extraction time is 60-150 min.
4. The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing, anti-aging compound essential oil according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the preparation method of the dog rose fruit oil is as follows: taking dry Rosa canina fruits, crushing, sieving, adding into water with the weight being 3-5 times that of the dry Rosa canina fruits, adding 1.5-3% of complex enzyme, adjusting the pH to 4-5, carrying out enzymolysis for 3-5 hours at 35-55 ℃, inactivating enzyme for 10-20 minutes at 100-105 ℃, carrying out reflux extraction, separating, concentrating, and drying to obtain the Rosa canina fruit oil.
5. The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil according to claim 4, wherein the compound enzyme is cellulase and pectase, and the weight ratio of the cellulase to the pectase is 3-5:1.
6. The skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging compound essential oil according to claim 4, wherein the reflux extraction condition is that the temperature is 75-85 ℃ and the reflux extraction is 60-120 min.
7. The method for preparing the skin-brightening, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging composite essential oil according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: firstly, taking lavender essential oil, then adding the rosa damascena flower oil into the lavender essential oil drop by drop, and uniformly mixing; then sequentially and dropwise adding the Rosa canina fruit oil, the jojoba seed oil and the sweet almond oil, uniformly mixing, adding the wheat germ oil, and uniformly mixing to obtain the compound essential oil.
8. The use of the skin-lightening, moisturizing, soothing, anti-aging complex essential oil according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in cosmetics.
9. The use as claimed in claim 8, wherein the amount of the complex essential oil in the cosmetic is 0.0025 to 20wt%.
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