CN109431914B

CN109431914B - Scalp care composition and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN109431914B
Application number: CN201811610028.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 戴跃锋; 康文术; 何广文; 颜少慰; 钱景茹
Original assignee: Hunan Yujia Cosmetics Manufacturing Co ltd
Current assignee: Syoung Cosmetics Manufacturing Co Ltd
Priority date: 2018-12-27
Filing date: 2018-12-27
Publication date: 2020-07-07
Anticipated expiration: 2038-12-27
Also published as: CN109431914A

Abstract

The invention relates to a scalp care composition and application thereof, and the scalp care composition comprises a skin oil balance composition, a skin microecological balance composition and a skin barrier repair composition. The scalp care composition disclosed by the invention can be used for solving the problems of dryness, pruritus, desquamation, alopecia and the like around the scalp, the scalp barrier is repaired by adopting sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and ecdysteroid, the susceptibility is reduced by adopting an itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition (comding Tetra), the lipid balance is maintained by adopting a nicotinamide, inositol, caprylyl glycine and oil-controlling plant composition (M82N), the metabolic balance composition (M3) is adopted to achieve the metabolic balance, and the microbial flora balance is achieved by adopting a common jujube bark extract, a first balance composition (ecological nutrient solution) and a second balance composition (Fensebiume Peptide), so that the scalp problem is effectively improved.

Description

Scalp care composition and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of washing and caring products, in particular to a scalp care composition and application thereof.

Background

The ninth one of ten health standards promulgated by the world health organization is that hair is glossy and has no dandruff. The scalp is distributed with a plurality of blood vessels, nerves, sebaceous glands, sweat glands and hair follicles, and is in health relation with the body, so that the skin of the head needs to be carefully cleaned and cared as well as the skin of the face. After more than 30 years of accumulation and development, the Chinese shampoo market has entered a new period of comprehensive competition and high-speed development, and each manufacturer is constantly launching new technologies and new products, and consumers are constantly seeking shampoo, hair-care and scalp-care products suitable for themselves. In a certain sense, shampoo products will gradually develop into washing and protecting cosmetics in the future, and become powerful weapons for improving life quality, perfecting self-image and enhancing personal charm of people. The 21 st century is expected, the consumption of cosmetics for Chinese hair will be increased, and the market scale will be expanded. Statistically, the shampoo market in China currently exceeds that in Japan, approaching the United states, but is still lower than that in developed countries on a per-capita basis. From a care product perspective, the hair conditioner market in the united states is about half as large as the shampoo market, while the hair conditioner market in japan is close to the shampoo market. However, the size of the shampoo is not one tenth of that of the shampoo in the actual situation of Chinese hair care product market, which is caused by the fact that the current economic conditions including purchasing power have certain limits on one hand, and the hair care consciousness of consumers is relatively insufficient on the other hand. However, considering that the economy of China will continue to steadily increase in the future, the demand of people on hairdressing, hair care and maintenance products will be continuously improved, so that the potential market of China washing and protecting cosmetics is very huge, and the development prospect is very wide.

In recent years, with the increasing demand of people for health and environmental protection, the silicon-containing oil shampoo has been controversial because the silicon-containing oil shampoo is easy to remain on the scalp, and researches show that although the silicon-containing oil shampoo can make the hair more glossy, smooth and elegant, the silicon-containing oil shampoo is not water-permeable, is difficult to clean during hair washing, partially remains on the scalp and the hair, can cause deposition on the scalp after long-term use, and causes the problems of itching, scurf, greasy hair, hair loss, hair irritation and the like, and the silicone oil accumulation on the hair can cause the hair to become thick, and the hair is flat, collapsed and not fluffy after being dried. Silicone oil is a chemical inert substance, is difficult to degrade under natural conditions, and enters the environment along with wastewater discharge in the production and use processes, thereby causing environmental pollution. Although there are many shampoos declared to be free of silicone oil in the market, the addition of silicone oil is only cancelled, and other components in the formula are not adjusted, which basically backs to the shampoo age without the addition of silicone oil, so that pain points of consumers cannot be really solved, and water-oil balance of scalp, microbial flora balance and effective scalp barrier repair cannot be realized.

Disclosure of Invention

Accordingly, there is a need for a scalp care composition that can achieve scalp water-oil balance, balance microbial flora, and effectively repair scalp barrier function.

A scalp care composition comprises a skin lipid-balancing composition, a skin micro-ecological balancing composition and a skin barrier repair composition;

the skin lipid balance composition comprises niacinamide, inositol, caprylyl glycine and oil control plant extract; the oil control plant extract comprises flos Callicarpae Formosanae extract, herba Urticae Cannabinae extract, herba Equiseti Arvinsis extract, herba Rosmarini officinalis extract, herba Melissae axillaris extract, horse chestnut seed extract, herba Salvia officinalis extract and coltsfoot extract;

the skin microecological balance composition comprises a first balance composition, a second balance composition and a date tree bark extract; the first balancing composition comprises inulin and gluco-oligosaccharide, and the second balancing composition comprises acetyl heptapeptide-4 and caprylyl glycol;

the skin barrier repair composition comprises sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, ecdysteroid, an antipruritic and antiallergic composition and a metabolic balance composition; the itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition comprises a tetrandra root extract, potassium lactate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and phenoxyethanol, and the metabolic balance composition comprises magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate and copper gluconate.

The invention also provides an application of the scalp care composition in preparing a washing and caring product.

In one embodiment, the shampoo is selected from a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair oil, or a scalp care essence.

The invention also provides a washing and caring product which comprises the scalp care composition.

In one embodiment, the following components are also included: glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, oligomeric hyaluronic acid, allantoin and arginine.

The scalp care composition of the invention belongs to silicone oil-free washing and care, takes mild as an idea, takes scalp care as a core, takes nature as an aim, mainly comprises a mild surfactant to replace a traditional sulfate anionic surfactant with strong degreasing power, a conditioner for replacing silicone oil and components for effectively caring scalp through selection of natural oil, has the core effect of scalp care, develops washing and care components aiming at mild scalp and skin barrier repair, is applied to scalp washing and care, solves the problems of dryness, pruritus, desquamation, alopecia and the like around the scalp, adopts sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and ecdysteroid to repair the scalp barrier, adopts an itching-relieving and allergy-resisting composition (comding Tetra) to reduce susceptibility, adopts a nicotinamide, inositol, caprylyl glycine and an oil-controlling plant composition (M82N) to maintain grease balance, adopts a metabolic balance composition (M3) to achieve metabolic balance, the bark extract of the Chinese date, the first balance composition (ecological nutrient solution) and the second balance composition (Fenseeiome Peptide) are adopted to achieve microbial flora balance, and the scalp problem is effectively improved through the synergistic cooperation of the components with good compatibility.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows the results of sebum secretion test using serum containing 10% M82N and serum without M82N;

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of scalp microecological homeostasis and imbalance;

FIG. 3 is a fluorescent micrograph of an enhanced cell adhesion assay for acetyl heptapeptide-4;

FIG. 4 is a graph showing the results of an experiment in which acetyl heptapeptide-4 enhances cell adhesion;

FIG. 5 is a graph showing the evaluation results of the transdermal water loss model of acetyl heptapeptide-4;

FIG. 6 is a graph of experimental results of microbial community adhesion of acetyl heptapeptide-4;

FIG. 7 is a graph showing the results of an experiment for inducing the expression of tight junction components of acetyl heptapeptide-4;

FIG. 8 is a graph showing the results of an experiment for promoting the synthesis of long-chain ceramide in acetyl heptapeptide-4;

FIG. 9 is a graph showing the results of experiments on histamine release reduction of the bark extract of Ziziphus jujuba;

FIG. 10 is a graph showing the result of an experiment on the anti-dandruff effect of the bark extract of Ziziphus jujuba;

FIG. 11 is a graph showing the results of experiments on the regulation of sebum production by the extract of the bark of the common jujube tree;

in fig. 12, a is a graph of experimental results of the effects of ecdysteroids in promoting fibroblast proliferation, and B is a graph of experimental results of the effects of ecdysteroids in promoting keratinocyte proliferation;

FIG. 13 is a graph of the results of an experiment in which ecdysteroid increases epidermal thickness in a model constructed of fibroblasts from an elderly person;

FIG. 14 is a graph comparing the effect of proliferation of Reverskin basal cells;

FIG. 15 is a graph showing the results of an experiment in which ecdysteroid increases the synthesis of cell proliferation marker Ki 67;

FIG. 16 is a graph comparing the effect of Reverskin repairing skin barrier;

FIG. 17 is a graph showing the results of an experiment in which ecdysteroid increases involucrin synthesis;

FIG. 18 is a graph showing the results of experiments for inhibiting the increase in the fat content of the scalp for each of the control and example samples;

FIG. 19 is a graph showing the results of experiments for raising the moisture content of the scalp for each of the control and example samples;

FIG. 20 is a graph showing the results of the TEWL percutaneous water loss test for each control and example;

FIG. 21 is a graph showing the results of the experiments on NO inhibition for each of the control and example samples;

fig. 22 is a graph of experimental results of in vitro evaluation of the scalp for each control and example sample.

Detailed Description

In order that the invention may be more fully understood, a more particular description of the invention will now be rendered by reference to specific embodiments thereof that are illustrated in the appended drawings. This invention may, however, be embodied in many different forms and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth herein. Rather, these embodiments are provided so that this disclosure will be thorough and complete.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The terminology used in the description of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention. As used herein, the term "and/or" includes any and all combinations of one or more of the associated listed items.

The scalp care composition according to an embodiment of the present invention includes a skin oil-and-fat balancing composition, a skin micro-ecological balancing composition, and a skin barrier repair composition.

The skin lipid balancing composition comprises niacinamide, inositol, caprylyl glycine and oil control plant extract. The oil-controlling plant extract comprises Callicarpa Inophylla extract, Urtica dioica extract, Equisetum arvense extract, Rosmarinus officinalis extract, Melissa officinalis extract, horse chestnut seed extract, Salvia officinalis extract, and coltsfoot extract.

The skin microecological balance composition comprises a first balance composition, a second balance composition and a bark extract of Ziziphus jujuba. The first balancing composition comprises inulin and gluco-oligosaccharide and the second balancing composition comprises acetyl heptapeptide-4 and caprylyl glycol.

The skin barrier repair composition comprises sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, ecdysteroid, antipruritic and antiallergic composition, and metabolic balance composition. The antipruritic and antiallergic composition comprises radix Stephaniae Japonicae extract, potassium lactate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and phenoxyethanol, and the metabolic balance composition comprises magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate and copper gluconate.

1. Scalp and hair

1.1 scalp Structure and Barrier

The scalp is used as soil for hair to live, and the balance of ecological environment is the root of healthy growth of hair. The scalp is one of the thinnest skin of the human body, contains abundant blood vessels, and has the aging speed 6 times that of the facial skin and 12 times that of the body skin. The scalp area is about 650-700 cm²The average density of hair follicles is 200-250/cm²About 52-79 pieces/cm on the forehead²About 42-78 pieces/cm on cheek². The amount of sebum secreted from the surface of the scalp can reach 288 mu g/cm in 12 hours²While the volume of sebum on forehead is only 144 mug/cm². Sweat glands and sebaceous glands of the scalp are exuberant in secretion, but are difficult to clean due to hair obstruction, microorganisms are easy to rapidly propagate, sebum is affected by factors such as ultraviolet irradiation and environmental pollution, peroxidation is easy to occur, slight inflammatory reaction of the scalp is caused, and scalp inflammation is easy to be caused by physical and chemical stimulation and the like brought by certain hairdressing products. The scalp's ability to self-regulate also gradually declines with age. These factors result in a reduced scalp protective barrier, prolonged hair telogen, diminished scalp follicles, reduced hair follicle capillaries, reduced melanin formation and a thinning of damaged scalp, causing symptoms such as greasy, sensitive, dry, itchy, alopecia, white hair and dandruff of the scalp. According to the survey results, more than 70% of healthy men and women have scalp problems in summer and winter, erythema and inflammation account for 70%, dandruff accounts for 30%, and scalp pimples account for 20%. In addition, scalp health status investigation of 101 women aged 20-59 showed that there were 66% problems with redness, dryness, pimples and dandruff. It can be seen that the scalp of most healthy people is not in a healthy state.

1.2 Hair Structure and composition

The main component of hair is keratin (more than about 80%), which is composed of two parts, hair shaft and hair follicle. The hair shaft can be divided into three layers of hair cortex, cortex and medulla, the hair cortex is the outermost layer of the hair shaft, 3-7 layers of hair cortex cells surround the hair shaft, and the thickness of each hair cortex cell is about 3-5 μm. The structure of the hair cortex cells can be divided into upper epidermis, outer epidermis and inner epidermis, wherein the upper epidermis and the outer epidermis are richThe cortex is tightly surrounded with medulla, and the diameter of cortex cell is about 2-3 μm, the cortex cell is composed of many coarse fibers, fine fibers and fibrils, and the diameter of fibril is only 2 × 10^-3μ m, consisting of 2-3 strands of α -helical keratin and a plurality of fibrils forming a diameter of 8 × 10^-3The hair is characterized in that the hair contains internal lipid besides a non-polar lipid covering, the internal lipid is mainly positioned between the hair cortex cells and in the intercellular space between the hair cortex and the cortex cells, the internal lipid is called a cell complex, is called CMC for short, the CMC distribution accounts for 57 percent of the fibers of the whole hair shaft, is the main structure of the hair lipid accounts for 5 to 7 percent of the mass, and plays a role in preventing the hair from being damaged by CMC, CMC and CMC, and the CMC is an important hair bleaching agent, and the CMC is a hair bleaching agent which can prevent the hair from being damaged by the high-sulfur protein, the CMC and CMC, and the CMC are important hair bleaching agents for hair, and the hair bleaching agents for hair are capable of forming a hair bleaching hair network, hair bleaching agent, hair bleaching agents for hair, hair bleaching hair, hair bleaching agents for hair, hair bleaching agents for hair, hair bleaching agents for hair, hair bleaching hair, hair bleaching agents for hair, hair bleaching hair bleaching agents for hair, hair bleaching agents for hair bleaching hair, hair bleaching agents for hair bleaching hair, hair bleaching agents for hair bleaching, hair bleaching agents for hair bleaching, hair bleaching, hair bleaching agents, hair bleaching agents for hair bleaching agents, hair bleaching agents and hair bleaching agents, hair bleaching agents for hairThe agent, hair, is affected by the above-mentioned various physicochemical factors, and also causes the decrease of the CMC content in the hair, with the result that the hair cuticle is peeled off and the hair scales are raised.

2 scalp problems

2.1 dandruff

Dandruff is a chronic, easily recurring and more common scalp problem, and compared with normal scalp, flaky dandruff on scalp or in hair is dandruff. Normally, epidermal cell shedding and cell regeneration are in dynamic equilibrium, and fully keratinized mature keratinocytes aggregate to form macroscopic clump shedding with a diameter of less than 0.2 mm. Macroscopic clumps of keratinocytes are considered dandruff, which is characterized by pathological manifestations of incomplete, overgrowth, disorganized keratinocytes and the like, and microscopic observation of the remaining nuclei of the cells. In addition to flaky desquamation, dandruff is primarily characterized clinically by itching, dry and tight scalp, stinging pain, and the presence of subclinical inflammatory changes. At present, more than 50 percent of people in the world suffer from the problem of dandruff, young people are multiple people and have serious diseases, generally, the morbidity of men is higher than that of women, and the morbidity of the old and children is lower. At present, researches aiming at dandruff generating mechanism and prevention and treatment means are mainly focused on malassezia, but a plurality of dandruff influencing factors and complicated pathogenesis relate to a plurality of factors such as scalp lipid, scalp microecology, scalp physiology, immunity and oxidation resistance, and the problems are not enough only by the malassezia.

(1) Scalp lipid membrane and microecology

The sebaceous membrane is a very thin membrane formed by emulsifying sebum secreted by sebaceous glands, sweat secreted by sweat glands and keratinocyte sheet lipid, and the scalp lipid membrane is a sebaceous membrane at a scalp part and can protect the scalp of people in a normal state. Compared with the facial skin, the scalp environment has vigorous hair, and sebaceous glands and sweat glands are abundant and have large secretion amount, so mineral ions, lipid, water and the like provide a proper growth environment and rich nutrient sources for microorganisms, and the activity of the microbial esterase is higher. The density of the scalp microflora planting is 10³～10⁵/mm²Propionibacterium, Staphylococcus and coryneform bacteriaThe bacteria are the most abundant 3 bacteria in healthy people and dandruff patients. Malassezia furfur accounts for 96% of the total number of fungi on the scalp, with restricted and spheroidised Malassezia as the dominant species, and in dandruff populations there is an increase in the number of Malassezia and Staphylococcus epidermidis, and a decrease in the number of Propionibacterium acnes, which may be related to their strict anaerobicity. In order to overcome the defect that most malassezia fungi are lipid-dependent and lack fatty acid synthetase genes, compared with other fungi, the malassezia fungi have a large number of lipase coding genes, so that host-derived lipids can be used as self nutrition sources, and the secretion of a plurality of malassezia-derived lipases, phospholipases and the like can compensate fatty acids required by growth and propagation of the malassezia fungi and enable the malassezia fungi to survive in an environment rich in lipids. Malassezia serrata can decompose triglyceride and saturated fatty acid in sebum into proinflammatory unsaturated fatty acid by secreting lipase, and the substances penetrate into the stratum corneum and not only cause itching feeling of scalp, but also can be combined with N-methyl-D-aspartate (NMDA) receptor to enable calcium ions to flow in, so that stratum corneum cell hyperplasia and keratinocyte abnormality are caused to cause scaly scales of scalp.

Squalene, an important component of sebum, which is first oxidized as a photoprotective barrier for the facial skin, is demonstrated to be irritating on the facial skin and to cause keratinocyte proliferation and inflammatory reactions, while penetrating the cell layer affecting the immune system. The peroxidase of malassezia origin causes the production of squalene peroxide by the production of hydroperoxides and the production of hydroxyl radicals. In addition, malassezia-derived lipoxygenase can peroxidate free unsaturated fatty acids, triglycerides, cholesterol, etc., and the products thereof are cytotoxic and play a role in the mechanism of dandruff development.

(2) Scalp barrier function

The scalps of healthy people are also planted with malassezia in a large quantity without dandruff symptoms, and by applying equal amount of oleic acid on the scalps of patients with dandruff and the scalps of healthy people, the dandruff patients further aggravate the dandruff symptoms, but the healthy people do not generate dandruff. It is suggested that in addition to malassezia factors, scalp permeability barrier function is also an important factor affecting dandruff. The change of the barrier function of the scalp of the dandruff people can be caused by stimulating a signal path of inflammatory reaction in the deep skin after the scalp is damaged for a long time (excessive cleaning, scalding, forceful winding and the like), so that the scalp is inflamed, and the desquamation caused by abnormal differentiation and proliferation of epidermal cells can be caused by a series of barrier functional disorders. In addition, the proliferation of malassezia bacteria in the scalp due to excessive sebum secretion and untimely cleansing, lifestyle problems (comb and pillow towel sharing), etc. and the barrier function of the scalp is destroyed by the irritant malassezia bacteria metabolites.

Microecology and scalp barrier function interact, and when the scalp barrier function is impaired, on the one hand, external irritants are more likely to enter the stratum corneum, causing inflammatory reactions and abnormal desquamation of the scalp. On the other hand, scalp pH and antimicrobial peptide secretion caused by barrier damage may change the scalp microbial composition and microbial activity. In vitro tests demonstrated that Malassezia were favored for reproductive growth when the pH of the medium was 6.2. Furthermore, the penetration of lipids secreted by the dandruff scalp sebaceous glands into the stratum corneum is significantly higher than that of healthy scalp, i.e. there are a large number of sebaceous gland lipids present in the stratum corneum of the dandruff scalp, which may disrupt the organization of the lipids in the superficial cells, promote desquamation of the scalp and may facilitate colonization of the stratum corneum by malassezia. The change in lipid content may be due to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TWEL) due to malassezia proliferation, a change in pH, a decrease in hydration, and thus an effect on the activity of lipid-related synthetases.

(3) Epidermal structural function related protein

a) Silk fibroin and natural moisturizing factor

A significant reduction in the level of the natural moisturizing factor NMF may be associated with an impaired barrier. The main source of NMF is the hydrolysis of Filaggrin (FLG) located in the lower stratum corneum layer, and the NMF produced after hydrolysis reaches the upper stratum corneum layer. Dandruff, on the other hand, is characterized by hyperproliferation and rapid desquamation, with a shortened maturation cycle of the cells of the stratum corneum, and therefore, it is possible that the keratinocytes have matured and reached the upper desquamation of the stratum corneum before FLG is hydrolysed to produce NMF. In addition, in the last step of NMF production by FLG, arginine protease-1 and γ -glutamyl cyclotransferase are able to convert arginine and γ -glutamyl dipeptide into urea and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, respectively, and these two enzymes are expressed in reduced amounts in dandruff, and in the case of FLG precursors, the contents of the relevant synthetases and hydrolases are reduced, possibly due to impaired barrier function or due to changes in the water content in the stratum corneum, pH, causing changes in the activity of the enzymes.

b) Keratinized desmosome and hydrolase thereof

The keratinized desmosomes serve primarily as a link and anchor between the keratinocytes and also serve to hold the adjacent stratum corneum tightly together, primarily composed of desmoglein and desmoglein. Keratinized desmosomes can be desquamated by hydrolysis with serine protease-kallikrein, proteolytic enzymes, and cysteine protease-cathepsins, among others. The reduction of perikeratinized desmosomes in dandruff scalp may lead to a reduction in the cohesion of keratinocytes, which are more easily detached and shed, but the weak cohesion between keratinocytes is increased due to the increase of sebum and structurally disordered lipids, and dandruff is shed in the form of flakes.

c) Keratin and cornified envelope

Keratin is the main structural protein of the horny layer, is expressed and produced by keratinocytes, can form an intermediate silk-like structure among cells, and maintains the stability and elasticity of the cell structure. When the skin barrier is damaged, the expression of epidermal keratin is disordered, and keratin K1 and K10 are used as classical markers of epidermal differentiation, the expression level in dandruff epidermis is obviously reduced, and the level is increased after dandruff treatment. For dandruff scalp, the cause of abnormal keratin expression may be related to malassezia in addition to the barrier factor. The cornified envelope is an important structure of the keratinocyte at the terminal stage of differentiation and maturation, and is regulated by glutamine transaminase. In dandruff scalp, the expression levels of the key enzymes transglutaminase-3 and 2 transglutaminase-1 processing enzymes and cathepsin D involved in the formation and maturation of cornified membranes are significantly reduced. This phenomenon may be related to changes in the water content of the stratum corneum and may also be related to malassezia metabolites. Barrier integrity and changes in the amount of proteins that play a critical role in the stratum corneum tissue of the scalp indicate an impaired scalp barrier and suggest incorrect differentiation and proliferation.

d) Skin antibacterial and antioxidant changes

Ribonucleases are proteins produced by keratinocytes that have significant activity against pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, the antibacterial proteins in the stratum corneum also include a dermatan, a prolactin-inducing protein and cystatin a, and endogenous antibacterial proteins exhibit a high resistance to skin infections and invading microorganisms. In dandruff scalp, the expression level of the above proteins is reduced, and other defense proteins such as apolipoprotein A-1 and histone H4 have higher expression level, which indicates that microorganism invasion exists, and the expression disorder state of the efficacy protein is probably caused by the change of microorganism population in dandruff scalp environment. Dandruff scalp has reduced antioxidant capacity, including reduced levels of superoxide dismutase and catalase, and in dandruff sebum, reduced levels of superoxide dismutase, catalase, and PARK7(DJ-1), indicating that not only the intrinsic immune defense system is affected, but also the antioxidant defense mechanism. Elevated levels of malondialdehyde and vitamin E suggest an elevated level of oxidative stress on the scalp, which may lead to increased sensitivity of the skin to foreign infections such as pollution and UV irradiation. Changes in these substances may be associated with microbial changes and metabolite invasion.

e) Inflammatory reaction

The inflammatory response is one of the characteristics of scalp skin lesions, the pathological evaluation of scalp tissue, the slight inflammatory response of the superficial scalp when leucocytes are present around the blood vessels, the value of 1L-1 α increases in the stratum corneum of dandruff scalp, when the barrier is damaged or the epidermis continues to undergo the inflammatory cascade, the 1L-1 α pre-existing in the stratum corneum is rapidly released, which induces the synthesis of various chemokines in the upstream link of the immune response, enhances the proliferation of T cells and the differentiation of B cells, has an immunoregulatory effect, 1L-8 has the action of chemotaxis and activating neutrophils, is also a biomarker of the inflammatory cascade, the level of which also increases in the dandruff scalp, when dandruff is reduced, the inflammation is reduced in living tissues, the level of which decreases.

3. Core of the technology

From the development process of the shampoo in China, the popularity of the shampoo without silicone oil is inevitable. The shampoo in the seventies and eighties of the 20 th century has single function and focuses on the cleaning function. Since 1985, the shampoo emphasizes the combined effects of washing and protecting hair and softening hair, then the function subdivision of the shampoo product is more obvious, and the concept of people is increased to the stage of comprehensively caring hair after the pure natural and plant products are discovered. From 2000 to date, products are pursuing deep cleaning and deep repair, and people no longer meet simple cleaning but require healthy cleaning from inside to outside. After the silicon oil-containing shampoo is used for a long time, the silicon oil can be accumulated on the hair layer by layer, so that the hair is unnatural, greasy, heavy, collapse and dry and frigid, and therefore, the silicon oil-free shampoo is suitable for being used as a healthy and fashionable life style. The product is a real silicon-free washing and protecting product without fire heat in the silicon oil market, and the general silicon-free product only simply removes the silicon oil in the formula, but the product is not added with the silicon oil shampoo in the 70 th of the 20 th century, so that the reduction of the conditioning performance is realized, and the technology is reversed, so that the product is not a real silicon-free washing and protecting product. The real silicone oil-free product is realized by a silicone oil-free technology under the technical development of a mild surfactant, special grease, natural active matters and the like, takes mild as an idea, takes scalp care as a core, takes the natural as an object, mainly consists of the mild surfactant, a conditioner for replacing silicone oil and components for effectively caring the scalp, and has the core of scalp care. That is, the silicone oil-free washing and protecting product should have mild performance, be easy to clean after being used, and enable the hair to be smooth and have the same effect as a silicone oil-containing product, and most importantly, the silicone oil-free washing and protecting product has the function of nursing the scalp. The scalp care is the core effect of a silicone oil-free washing and protecting product, and the scalp care components are essential for achieving the effect of caring the scalp, and special effective care components are adopted for solving the problems and pain points existing in scalp care by a multifunctional formula aiming at different scalp problems.

A healthy scalp ecosystem relies on three balances to achieve: grease balance, flora balance and barrier soundness. Scalp problems caused by imbalance of ecological environment of scalp include oily hair, itching hair, dandruff, dry hair, alopecia, etc. When the scalp grease secretion is unbalanced, the scalp will produce oil and become greasy, when the scalp flora environment is unbalanced, a large amount of harmful bacteria are bred, the phenomenon of itching of the head will occur, and when the scalp is coordinated too fast, the cuticle will fall off, and dandruff will occur.

3.1 oil balance

When the sebaceous glands of healthy scalp are more active, the scalp will appear greasy due to excessive secretion of oil. The active fertilization state of sebaceous glands, the influence of the vegetative nervous system and genes, and also the life habits and the health conditions of people. Sebum secretion is primarily controlled by androgens, testosterone, and dehydroepiandrosterone, which are present in varying amounts in both men and women. The oily scalp is characterized physiologically mainly by pore enlargement, hyperkeratosis, skin microbial proliferation, sebaceous gland hypersecretion, follicular inflammation, sebaceous gland enlargement, and the like.

The invention adopts nicotinamide, inositol, caprylyl glycine and oil control plant extract (M82N) to astringe scalp pores, regulate sebaceous gland secretion and excretion, and inhibit oil secretion, thereby reducing greasy feeling of hair and recovering scalp health.

3.1.1 Nicotinamide

Nicotinamide, one of the B vitamins, has high safety and stable properties, and is not easily damaged by acid, alkali or heat. Nicotinamide can keep skin energy balance, recover cell energy, and accelerate collagen synthesis, thereby avoiding melanin excessive deposition caused by skin low oil content and cuticle thinning. Nicotinamide promotes the exfoliation of keratinocytes by accelerating the renewal of the skin, and nicotinamide promotes the synthesis of epidermal proteins, enhances the self-defense ability of the skin, and increases the moisture content of the skin. Nicotinamide enters human body to be converted with nicotinic acid, and the nicotinic acid has the functions of expanding blood vessels and promoting blood circulation. Therefore, the nicotinamide can promote blood microcirculation of hair follicles, regulate oil secretion and realize water-oil balance.

3.1.2 inositol

Inositol is widely distributed in animals and plants and is a growth factor of animals and microorganisms. Inositol has a plurality of cis and trans isomers in nature, and the naturally occurring isomer is cis-1, 2,3, 5-trans-4, 6-inositol. Inositol obtained from water or acetic acid at 80 deg.C or higher is white crystal, melting point is 253 deg.C, and density is 1.752 g/cm³(15 ℃), sweet taste, water and acetic acid solubility, no optical rotation. Inositol is a component contained in breast milk, is an intracellular tissue component, and is an important physiological characteristic material. Is also an important substrate component of skin tissues and can promote skin rejuvenation. Improve the elasticity of skin, promote the moisture retention ability of skin, adjust the secretion of skin grease, and realize water-oil balance.

3.1.3 Octanylglycine

Octanoyl glycine is an amphiphilic molecular structure compound synthesized by acylation of octanoic acid and glycine. Glycine is an important amino acid found in proteins, and an amphiphilic structure is a molecular structure consisting of a hydrophilic group and a lipophilic group, is a natural component contained in skin, and is easily absorbed and utilized by the skin.

a) Reestablishing skin acid barrier

Healthy skin is acidic, unhealthy skin is alkaline, and caprylyl glycine contains free hydroxyl and can reestablish acidic pH of the skin.

b) Inhibiting seborrheic dermatitis

The caprylyl glycine can inhibit the bacterial proliferation generated by hair follicles, and the component has a better inhibiting effect on sebum-associated staphylococcus aureus, staphylococcus epidermidis and propionibacterium acnes under low concentration, so that inflammatory factors caused by bacterial proliferation are reduced, excessive secretion of sebaceous glands due to inflammatory stimulation is avoided, and the inhibiting data are as follows:

germs (bacteria)	Octanoyl glycine (MIC)
		Staphylococcus aureus (pH 5)	0.025％a.m
Staphylococcus epidermidis (pH 5)	0.12％a.m
		Propionibacterium acnes (pH 7)	0.06％a.m

c) Inhibition of 5- α reductase

The hair follicle activation is mainly caused by the fact that blood supply to the scalp is peripherally entered, blood flow is reduced at the terminal blood vessels at the top of the head and the top of the forehead, and relatively low oxygen and less capillary reperfusion occur at the same time.

The caprylyl glycine adopted by the invention has good activity of inhibiting 5 α -reductase and reduces the content of DHT in scalp, thereby avoiding excessive secretion of scalp grease, reducing the sebum proliferation base of malassezia and effectively inhibiting hair loss caused by hair follicle damage caused by DHT.

3.1.4 high efficiency plant oil control compositions

The invention adopts a unique water-soluble plant extract compound, and the efficient plant oil-control composition (M82N) consists of European chrysanthemum, nettle, field horsetail, rosemary, melissa, horse chestnut, sage and coltsfoot, and has the effects of relieving and calming.

1) Extract of ouyaju: the extract of Asteraceae is derived from the flower head of Chrysanthemum morifolium Ramat. Contains volatile oil, choline, stachydrine, amino acids, flavonoids and vitamins B1, chrysanthemum lactone, feverone, feverol and other effective components. The components not only can balance grease secretion, inhibit fat and prevent acne, but also have the functions of inhibiting and sterilizing malassezia fungi.

2) Nettle extract: herba Urticae Cannabinae has been used as medicinal material since ancient Greek Roman, and contains caffeinyl malic acid as main ingredient with antiinflammatory activity. The herba Urticae Cannabinae preparation is used for treating seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff and preventing alopecia. In Turkey, local herbal experts use the whole herb of nettle to prevent various diseases, and almost all medicinal plants can be replaced, which is called 'Baicao king'.

3) The herba Equiseti Arvinsis extract is rich in herba Equiseti Arvinsis saponin, equisetin, isoquercitrin, luteolin, silicic acid (the content is 5.19-7.77% of dry crude drugs), organic acid, fat, β -sitosterol, equisetum Cannabifolium, dimethyl sulfone, thymine, 3-methoxypyridine and various amino acids.

4) Rosemary extract: the main components of rosemary extract are rosmarinol, carnosol and carnosic acid. The main components in the rosemary extract have strong antioxidant activity. The antioxidant component extracted from herba Rosmarini officinalis is mainly carnosol, carnosic acid, rosmarinic acid and rosmanol except flavone, which have phenolic diterpene active site. In addition, rosemary also contains many different phenols such as rosemary diphenol and rosemary quinone, and these phenols are added to exhibit the entire antioxidant activity.

5) Melissa extract: melissa extract, a medicinal product, is derived from Melissa officinalis. It can be used for treating common cold. The melissa is an essential raw material for making essence and perfume. It also has tranquilizing effect when used as a medicine.

6) Horse chestnut seed extract: horse chestnut is a deciduous tree, and is distributed in deciduous forest lands in Europe. One of the four street trees in the world. Horse chestnut seed extract is rich in horse chestnut saponin, flavonoid and tannin, has the function of powerfully eliminating edema, and has the special effect on treating varicosity, red swelling and inflamed skin.

7) Sage extract: the sage contains plant phenols which can resist bacterial and fungal infection, and the plant essential oil also has the effects of relieving, conditioning skin and resisting oxidation, has an astringent effect on large pores, and can help young women with oily skin to improve or solve the trouble of acne.

8) Coltsfoot extract: the coltsfoot extract mainly contains sterols such as arindiol and isomer coltsfoot diol, and also contains rutin, hyperoside, triterpenoid saponin, tannin, wax, volatile oil, etc., and can relieve spasm caused by histamine.

M82N combines eight plant components according to scientific proportion, can effectively inhibit grease secretion, astringe pores, relieve pruritus caused by dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, and effectively inhibit scalp fungi. The sebumetric content was determined using the Sebumeter SM 410 assay, which uses a transparent cuff to absorb sebum from the skin surface of a sample, with the more sebum there is, the more transparent the cuff is. The serum containing 10% of M82N and the serum not containing M82N were tested, diluted 15% with warm water, and the amount of sebum after washing was measured in the morning and in the evening (at 8-hour intervals), respectively, and the test was performed in an air-conditioned room for ten days, and the dynamic change of sebum secretion six hours after application was measured to show the effect of suppressing the sebum secretion rate, and the results are shown in fig. 1. The test results show that M82N has an inhibitory effect on sebum secretion from the skin. After the essence containing M82N is used, the sebum secretion amount is obviously reduced, and the essence has instant and rapid inhibition effect, and can inhibit sebum secretion by reducing external stimulation to skin and scalp.

3.2 flora balance

When scalp microecology is unbalanced, scalp flora environment is unbalanced, a large amount of harmful bacteria are bred, the phenomenon of itching occurs, metabolites of the harmful bacteria stimulate mast cells to release histamine to cause pruritus, malassezia metabolizes to generate phospholipase to cause arachidonic acid and prostaglandin, inflammation is aggravated, skin barrier is damaged, and susceptibility is increased. The scalp is a unique environment, and has dense terminal hair, a large number of sweat glands and sebaceous glands and higher relative humidity, which create favorable conditions for the colonization of microorganisms, the differentiation process of stratum corneum cells provides a certain amount of amino acids for the colonization of microorganisms, the sweat glands secrete minerals, the sebaceous glands provide lipids, and the dense terminal hair, the large number of sweat glands and the sebaceous glands cooperate with each other to provide a rich environment. Dandruff is medically known as pityriasis capitis, a skin disease caused by malassezia, and also a manifestation of unhealthy scalp. The production mechanism is that malassezia is proliferated on scalp in large quantity to cause hyperproliferation of skin stratum corneum, thereby promoting stratum corneum cells to abnormally drop off in the form of white or grey scales, and the dropped scales are dandruff. Malassezia spp parasitizes on the scalp and breaks down triglycerides in the sebaceous glands to release free fatty acids. The released free fatty acids penetrate into the stratum corneum and thus impair the barrier function of the skin, which leads to excessive epidermal proliferation and increased sebum secretion. The latter in turn provides a suitable microenvironment for malassezia proliferation. Individual susceptibility means that both malassezia globosa and malassezia restricta can be found in dandruff and normal scalp. The immune system of the host may function properly in dandruff formation.

3.2.1 first Balanced composition (ecological Nutrition solution)

Microbial flora is an important line of defense and first barrier to protect the scalp. Healthy scalp needs to maintain dynamic balance of beneficial bacteria and harmful bacteria in microbial flora, wherein the microbial flora in the scalp comprises beneficial bacteria such as staphylococcus capitis, corynebacterium siccatum, micrococcus krusei and lactobacillus pentosus, and harmful bacteria such as candida albicans, staphylococcus aureus, propionibacterium acnes and malpighia glabrata. Probiotics do not kill pathogenic bacteria, but can competitively inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria by capturing all food, and the scalp homeostasis and imbalance are shown in fig. 2. The invention adopts inulin and glucose oligosaccharide as scalp ecological nutrient solution, and competitively inhibits the proliferation of harmful bacteria by promoting the proliferation of probiotics, and the structural formulas are respectively shown as follows. The glucose oligosaccharide belongs to a bioselective polysaccharide, can be utilized by probiotics without being absorbed by harmful bacteria, thereby promoting the growth of the scalp probiotics, and competitively inhibits the growth of the harmful bacteria through nutrition, thereby protecting and maintaining the scalp microecological system.

3.2.2 second Balanced composition (Fensebiol peptide)

The rural economy is changed into the urban industrial economy, the urbanization is rapidly increased, people can not frequently interact with the nature like ancestors soon, the contact with the nature is reduced, the biological diversity of the scalp is reduced, the sensitivity of the scalp is increased, the scalp is dry, desquamation, tight and uncomfortable, and even seborrheic dermatitis is caused. The scalp has a dual skin barrier function, namely the epidermis and the microflora. Scalp microflora acts as a protective barrier through different mechanisms of action, and communication between the microflora and the scalp can regulate defense responses, mainly in three areas: a) competitive inhibition, excluding harmful bacteria; b) an immune response; c) integrity of the scalp barrier, strengthening the intercellular junctions by activating the TLRS signaling pathway. The invention adopts acetyl heptapeptide-4, and helps to strengthen the scalp barrier and prevent dryness by improving and regulating the balance and diversity of scalp microflora and increasing beneficial bacteria. The acetyl heptapeptide-4 promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria, so that the scalp achieves the optimal health state, can systematically resist oxidation and inflammation, prevent the scalp from water loss, strengthen the defense of pathogens, balance the microbial community, improve the barrier function and stabilize the autoimmunity. The caprylyl glycol is used as a dissolving aid and an antibacterial inhibitor to be cooperated with the acetyl heptapeptide-4.

3.2.2.1 altering microbiome, enhancing scalp barrier function

(1) Group of beneficial microorganisms

Microbial diversity, generally characterized by a fragrance index, lower values of fragrance index indicate lower microbial diversity, which is often associated with skin unhealthy. The DNA sequencing structure of the V3 region of the 16rRNA gene can be analyzed by special bioinformatics software. According to the invention, the acetyl heptapeptide-4 is adopted to effectively improve the shannon diversity index, so that the diversity of scalp bacteria is increased, the scalp is restored to nature and becomes healthier, the microbial community balance is improved, and the microbial protection barrier of the skin is strengthened. The microorganism group beneficial to scalp can strengthen the metabolism path of bacteria, thereby increasing the external nutrition supply of scalp.

(2) Enhancing cell adhesion

The acetyl heptapeptide-4 adopted by the invention can effectively strengthen intercellular cell adhesion, can be characterized by the keratinocyte desquamation condition and effectively inhibit dandruff desquamation. The exfoliation of the keratinocytes of the scalp using Placebo (Placebo) and a solution containing 1% of Fensebiol peptide, respectively, was evaluated by the tape stripping technique and observed with a fluorescence microscope, as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4. Experiments show that the exfoliative keratinocytes of the scalp treated by the acetyl heptapeptide-4 are reduced by 18.6%, and the scalp treatment liquid can effectively inhibit dandruff, improve seborrheic dermatitis and reduce skin susceptibility.

(3) Scalp protection barrier

Whether the scalp barrier is protected or not is evaluated through a transdermal moisture loss model, transdermal moisture loss (TEWL) is measured by using a skin moisture loss tester 48 hours after surface activity induced damage, and the evaluation proves that the acetyl heptapeptide-4 can better protect the physical barrier of the scalp and prevent dryness, as shown in figure 5.

3.2.2.2 improvement of scalp microflora, immunity and barrier integrity

(1) Enhancing the adherence of beneficial microbial communities

Human keratinocytes were treated with Fensebiol Peptide for 24h, then exposed to fluorescently labeled Staphylococcus epidermidis and inactivated Staphylococcus aureus for 30min, and bacterial adhesion on the human keratinocytes was observed microscopically, with the results shown in FIG. 6. Experiments show that the acetyl heptapeptide-4 adopted by the invention can effectively promote the change of scalp microbial community, help the survival of beneficial bacteria, increase the staphylococcus epidermidis by 19 percent and reduce the staphylococcus aureus by 9 percent.

(2) Altering key components in the scalp barrier

Human scalp keratinocytes were treated with 50. mu.g/ml of Fenseebody Peptide for 24h, and then the expression of tightly linked TJ-associated genes (OCLN, CLDN1, JAM3, TJP1, TJP2, TJP3, ACTA1) was examined using a reverse transcription PCR (RT-PCR) assay, with the results shown in FIG. 7. Experiments prove that the acetyl heptapeptide-4 adopted by the invention can induce the expression of tight junction components and increase the integrity of the head epidermal barrier.

(3) Improving scalp barrier function

Human scalp keratinocyte was treated with 50. mu.g/ml Fensebiol peptide for 24 hours, and the ceramide content was measured by ultra high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry, and the results are shown in FIG. 8. Experiments prove that the FenseBiopeptide can be used for strengthening key components of an epidermal barrier, can promote the synthesis of long-chain ceramide, is vital to the functional structure and impermeability of the barrier, protects and strengthens a permeable barrier for avoiding water loss, avoids the change caused by chemical invaders of microbial metabolic components, strengthens the barrier function of skin, and improves the integrity of the horny layer.

3.2.3 bark extract of common jujube (DANDRILYS)

Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT, Pyrithione Zinc) has been used in anti-dandruff rinse-off shampoos since the sixties, and recently the ZPT anti-dandruff mechanism has been elucidated, i.e., ZPT can inhibit the growth of fungi, however, side effects of long-term use of this agent have also been reported, including allergy, skin irritation and dry skin. In addition, in vitro experiments have shown that ZPT disrupts epidermal homeostasis and induces fibroblast apoptosis and premature aging, and that these experiments indicate that ZPT is somewhat toxic. The invention adopts the jujube bark extract (DANDRILYS), which is a novel active substance obtained from south America plants, the jujube is a Rhamnaceae plant and one of the most important trees in south America, and contains abundant saponin, because of similar structure, the molecules are classified into a large family, and the family members have wide pharmacological effects, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, immunoregulation and multiple functions, have cleaning, relieving and tranquilizing activities, and can inhibit the occurrence of dandruff. The bark extract of Ziziphus jujuba mainly reduces dandruff problem around three aspects.

3.2.3.1 anti-Pruritus Properties

Histamine can disturb the skin barrier, further causing scratch, and mechanical trauma can exacerbate the skin barrier defect. To investigate DANDRILYS the effect on the progress of pruritus, researchers tested the major cells involved in the mechanism of pruritus, i.e., the mast cells. More precisely, histamine release from mast cells was tested and the results are shown in figure 9. The results show that DANDRILYS at 2% concentration significantly reduced histamine release from mast cells (27%), therefore DANDRILYS has soothing and anti-histamine properties that can reduce scratching and associated mechanical trauma. As such, the date extract can repair and protect the skin barrier of the head and stop the vicious circle of dandruff production.

3.2.3.2 anti-dandruff Effect

In vivo tests were carried out on 34 volunteers with dandruff (between the ages of 19 and 56) to evaluate the antidandruff effect of DANDRILYS. Healthy volunteers with dandruff underwent a one week pre-experimental pre-equilibration period during which they shampooed with a neutral (no-control) shampoo. The experiment was continued with volunteers who still developed dandruff after the week had elapsed. Only volunteers with moderate to severe dandruff may participate in the clinical trial. In fact, dandruff problems have been classified according to the severity level established by the professional dermatologist: from 0 to 10 points, 0 points are healthy scalp, 10 points are severe dandruff with large patches of adherent scale, or seborrheic dermatitis, as shown in the following table. Volunteers were divided into two groups: the first group, 23 volunteers, used two shampoos, with or without 1% active DANDRILYS (null control); the second group, 11 volunteers, used two shampoos with 1% DANDRILYS or 1% Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT) active. Volunteers applied two shampoos three times a week and were randomized to wash half of their heads with one shampoo, with the results shown in figure 10. The results show that DANDRILYS has high anti-dandruff activity, and has faster onset and stronger efficacy compared with ZPT.

3.2.3.3 regulating sebum production

Scalp sebum secretion is an important component mechanism in dandruff conditions. In addition, one of the side effects of ZPT is to induce excessive sebum secretion, which results in greasy hair, and the extract of the bark of the jujube tree has long-term inhibition of the regulatory mechanism in the aspect of sebum production. Therefore, we further analyzed the sebum production rate using a couage & KHAZAKA SM 810PC sebumeter. Initial sebum production was first measured and then every 3 days. Of the volunteers in the dandruff test described above, a subset of volunteers from each group were enrolled in this additional experiment (first group of 10 volunteers, second group of 4 volunteers) and the results are shown in FIG. 11. The results show that shampoo containing 1% DANDRILYS significantly reduced the amount of scalp sebum from the first use of the shampoo compared to the null control and ZPT. In addition, half of the scalp sebum rate after treatment with the 1% ZPT shampoo was greatly increased after cessation of treatment. This high sebum level may explain the "boomerang effect" produced after cessation of ZPT, i.e., the rapid proliferation of Malassezia again due to the availability of an important source of nutrients. In contrast, DANDRILYS mildly regulates sebum and cleanses the scalp, replenishes the hydrated sebum membrane, and reestablishes scalp integrity. Therefore, DANDRILYS can regulate sebum secretion both during and after treatment, whereas ZPT strongly increases sebum secretion.

3.3 Barrier repair

The skin barrier function is mainly achieved by the cornified layer of the epidermis, and skin barrier defects are usually characterized by abnormal cornification of the epidermis. This can cause symptoms of the scalp such as hyperkeratosis, parakeratosis (cells of the cornified layer abnormally retain nuclei), leading to the accumulation of visible white scales on the scalp surface. Generally speaking, desquamation of the scalp is caused by increased proliferation, accelerated differentiation or abnormal differentiation of keratinocytes. As such, the rate of cell renewal is increased, resulting in an overproduced keratinocyte flakiness distribution and a snow-like appearance on the scalp. Scalp skin barrier defects are also characterized by higher transepidermal water loss than normal skin. The desquamated scalp barrier is seriously damaged and is also the reason for the increased susceptibility to dandruff, and the invention rebuilds the skin barrier from three dimensions of repairing the skin barrier, enhancing the hydration capacity of the scalp and reducing the susceptibility of the scalp.

3.3.1 sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate

A significant reduction in the level of the natural moisturizing factor NMF may be associated with an impaired barrier. The main source of NMF is the hydrolysis of Filaggrin (FLG) located in the lower stratum corneum layer, and the NMF produced after hydrolysis reaches the upper stratum corneum layer. Dandruff, on the other hand, is characterized by hyperproliferation and rapid desquamation, with a shortened maturation cycle of the cells of the stratum corneum, and therefore, it is possible that the keratinocytes have matured and reached the upper desquamation of the stratum corneum before FLG is hydrolysed to produce NMF. In addition, arginine protease-1 and γ -glutamyl cyclotransferase are able to convert arginine and γ -glutamyl dipeptide into urea and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, respectively, in the last step of NMF production by FLG, while the expression levels of these two enzymes are reduced in dandruff skin. The reduced levels of FLG precursors, associated synthetases and hydrolases may be due to impaired barrier function or to altered enzyme activity due to changes in the water content, pH in the stratum corneum. In general, in the dandruff scalp, many important factors that maintain the skin barrier are consumed, including lipids and keratocytes, which are the major adhesive structures of the stratum corneum.

The invention adopts sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate to carry out exogenous supplement of skin barrier NMF moisturizing factors. Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na) is a substance naturally existing in skin, is an amino acid derivative, is dissolved in water and ethanol, is not dissolved in oil, has stronger hygroscopicity, and can absorb moisture from air. PCA-Na is one of the important components of human body natural moisturizing factor, has high hygroscopicity, no toxicity, no irritation and good stability, is an ideal natural cosmetic health care product for modern skin and hair care, and can make skin and hair have wettability, softness, elasticity, glossiness and antistatic property.

3.3.2 ecdysteroids (REVERSKIN)

Scalp stratum corneum is damaged in scalp barrier integrity due to dandruff, keratinocyte renewal is slowed down, adhesion of keratinocyte-dermis junction layer is reduced, skin moisture retention capacity is reduced, hydration degree is reduced, skin loses elasticity, and lack of compactness is caused.

The ecdysteroid of the stellera fern from the Pacinia is adopted, the stellera fern belongs to one of the most commonly used ferns in the traditional medical science of the Pacinia, the structural formula of the ecdysteroid is shown as follows, the molecular weight is 464.63g/mol, and the logP is 2.92. As shown in fig. 12, the fern extract was tested to have the efficacy of promoting proliferation of fibroblast (NHDF) and keratinocyte (NHEK) without cytotoxicity. Also, as shown in fig. 13, the fern extract can increase the thickness of the epidermis in a model of adult human fibroblast construction. As shown in fig. 14 and 15, the fern extract significantly increased the basal keratinocyte self-renewal, which was related to the epidermal thickness, and the amount of cell proliferation marker Ki67 was significantly increased by 3.3 times, showing the efficacy of promoting regeneration. As shown in fig. 16 and 17, the fern extract regulated the proliferation and differentiation balance of keratinocytes and restored the skin barrier integrity, significantly increased the synthesis of keratinocyte differentiation markers and keratinocyte envelope precursor-involucrin by 5.3 times, showing the effect of promoting differentiation. Therefore, the fern phytosterol has the effects of promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes, increasing the thickness of epidermis, remarkably increasing the self-renewal of basal keratinocytes, promoting the regeneration, regulating the proliferation and differentiation balance of keratinocytes and promoting the differentiation.

3.3.3 antipruritic and antiallergic composition (Comthing tetra)

Dandruff is also often closely associated with scalp itching and results in scalp scratch, which can mechanically damage the stratum corneum of the epidermis and further worsen skin barrier damage. Itching is a skin sensation that can cause the need for scratching. It is the most common symptom of various scalp diseases including dandruff, and it causes more trouble when itching is aggravated. Histamine is still an important mediator of itching, although other chemicals may be associated with itching. The major source of histamine in the skin is epidermal mast cells, which degranulate to release histamine when the tissue is inflamed and the allergen stimulates. The histamine level in dandruff patients was 2 times higher than in non-dandruff patients, explaining why the itching sensation in dandruff patients increases. In addition, histamine also disrupts skin barrier function.

The antipruritic and anti-allergic composition screened by the invention comprises tetrandra root extract, potassium lactate, phenoxyethanol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, has the effect of reconstructing a skin barrier, can avoid further damage to scalp caused by scratching and winding due to histamine, has the action mechanism shown in the table below, and can be dissolved by solvents such as water and the like.

The organic combination of the tetrandra root extract and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate which are main anti-allergic components in the Comthing Tetra is adopted, wherein the tetrandrine extract is used as an effective component, can inhibit mitogen-stimulated lymphocyte proliferation, improve cell immunity, inhibit the generation of oxygen free radicals, inhibit lipid peroxidation, eliminate seborrheic dermatitis, inhibit edema induced by arachidonic acid and cross glycoside, and almost completely inhibit the activity of hyaluronidase; the dipotassium glycyrrhizinate can stabilize the degranulation effect of mast cells, inhibit the release of histamine, have good inhibition effect on scalp itch, and avoid damage to scalp barriers and sedation sensitivity symptoms; the potassium lactate forms lactic acid after being absorbed by skin, the lactic acid is a natural moisturizing factor component of the skin barrier and can supplement and repair the skin barrier externally, and the phenoxyethanol serving as an antibacterial agent has good compatibility with other components and can ensure that the Comthing Tetra can effectively resist bacteria and preserve corrosion in the shelf life.

3.3.4 metabolic balancing compositions (M3)

The scalp is the part with the fastest general aging and the highest free radical content, and the aging speed is 6 times of that of the facial skin and 12 times of that of the body skin. This is because the scalp is very thin, next to the skin around the eyes, 1/50 for the skin on the sole of the foot. Unlike the typical skin cell metabolism cycle of 28 days, the scalp cell metabolism cycle is only 14 to 21 days. Because the facial skin is closely connected with the scalp, the facial skin can cause the small drop of the mouth corner and the eye corner along with the aging of the scalp, the wrinkle is formed on the forehead, and the facial skin can also be aged along with the aging. When the scalp is loose, it descends to the face, and then wrinkles are formed on the forehead, canthus and mouth. Wrinkles on the face may be caused by skin care errors, the wrinkles on the face may disappear due to the tight scalp, and the health of the scalp is the first important thing. The natural barrier of the scalp is disrupted and the cells of the stratum corneum are disorderly arranged and are unable to effectively lock water and resist external stimuli, thus exacerbating dryness, itching, greasiness and dandruff of the scalp. The scalp is polluted by ultraviolet rays and chemical substances, and the cell viability is low due to stress, fatigue or diet, so that the cell viability of the scalp is improved, the cell metabolism is promoted, and the scalp anti-aging method is an important way for resisting scalp aging. Pathological alopecia results when the metabolic balance of the scalp is abnormal. The main causes of the pathological alopecia include mental factors, congenital genetic factors, hormone imbalance and other internal factors, protein, amino acid, vitamin and other deficient nutritional factors, and seborrheic alopecia caused by excessive seborrhea.

The invention adopts (SEPITONIC M3) magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate and copper gluconate as metabolic balance composition, contains multiple mineral supplements with stage and continuous performance, charges scalp cells, awakens cell metabolism, and makes scalp revitalize. Wherein, the aspartic acid and the gluconic acid are intelligent organic ions and provide carriers for mineral ions, so that the mineral ions have biological availability and form cell energy with biological efficacy, and the mineral ions, namely copper, zinc and magnesium, have synergistic effect and are accessory factors of enzymes and can provide energy for cells. The metabolic balance composition mechanism is as follows: magnesium ion: phosphate converted ATP, which is the second largest cation of the cell, is lost during skin aging. Copper ion: promote the respiration of cells, and the cytochrome oxidase forms ATP to promote the synthesis of keratin and collagen. Zinc ion: stimulating the production of DNA polymerase and stabilizing proteome; promote the synthesis of keratin and collagen. Three mineral ions, which act synergistically in metabolism to produce coenzyme factors. Aspartate is converted in acetyl-coa and is involved in the tricarboxylic acid cycle to ATP. The gluconate is degraded by pentose phosphate to provide electrons for reduced coenzyme 2(NADPH2), promote cell respiration and generate ATP.

The invention adopts M3 to gradually stimulate the energy and metabolism medium of cells through better cell respiration, and adopts the synergist of the active additive to promote the absorption and effective utilization of other active ingredients in the formula; effective scavenging of free radicals, improving cellular metabolism and avoiding the accumulation of xenobiotics allows detoxified cells to retain their own defenses.

In summary, the scalp care composition of the present invention has the following advantages:

1) according to the scalp cream, the problems of dryness, pruritus, desquamation, alopecia and the like of the scalp are solved, the scalp barrier is repaired by adopting sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and ecdysteroid, the susceptibility is reduced by adopting an itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition (comding Tetra), the oil-fat balance is achieved by adopting a nicotinamide, inositol, caprylyl glycine and oil-controlling plant composition (M82N), the metabolic balance composition (M3) is adopted to achieve the metabolic balance, the microbial flora balance is achieved by adopting a common jujube bark extract, a first balance composition (ecological nutrient solution) and a second balance composition (Fensebiol Peptide), and the problems of dryness, pruritus, desquamation, alopecia and the like of the scalp are effectively improved through the synergistic cooperation of the components with good compatibility.

2) The caprylyl glycine adopted by the invention has good activity of inhibiting 5 α -reductase and reduces the content of DHT in scalp, thereby avoiding excessive secretion of scalp grease, reducing the sebum proliferation base of malassezia and effectively inhibiting hair loss caused by hair follicle damage caused by DHT.

3) The invention adopts the compound of nicotinamide, inositol and unique water-soluble plant extract to regulate the grease secretion. The plant compound comprises European drug chrysanthemum extract, nettle extract, horsetail extract, rosemary extract, melissa extract, horse chestnut extract, sage extract and coltsfoot extract, and has the effects of relieving and tranquilizing.

4) The invention adopts M3 to gradually stimulate the energy and metabolism medium of cells through better cell respiration, and adopts the synergist of the active additive to promote the absorption and effective utilization of other active ingredients in the formula; effective scavenging of free radicals, improving cellular metabolism and avoiding the accumulation of xenobiotics allows detoxified cells to retain their own defenses.

5) The invention adopts inulin and glucose oligosaccharide as scalp ecological nutrient solution, and competitively inhibits the proliferation of harmful bacteria by promoting the proliferation of probiotics. The glucose oligosaccharide belongs to a bioselective polysaccharide, can be utilized by probiotics without being absorbed by harmful bacteria, thereby promoting the growth of the scalp probiotics, and competitively inhibits the growth of the harmful bacteria through nutrition, thereby protecting and maintaining the scalp microecological system.

6) The invention adopts the common jujube bark extract (DANDRILYS), which contains abundant saponin and can improve scalp problems from three dimensions of antimicrobial, immunoregulation and lipid secretion regulation.

7) The Fensebiole Peptide adopted by the invention can increase the diversity of scalp microorganisms, promote the balance of scalp microbial communities, regulate the metabolic pathway of bacteria, reduce the expression of inflammatory factors, regulate immune response, increase the synthesis of long-chain ceramide which is a key component of an epidermal barrier, promote genes related to epidermal tight connection, protect the skin barrier and reduce the scalp susceptibility.

8) The fern ecdysteroid is adopted, so that the fern ecdysteroid has the effects of promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes, increasing the thickness of epidermis, remarkably increasing the self-renewal of basal keratinocytes, showing the effect of promoting regeneration, regulating the proliferation and differentiation balance of the keratinocytes and showing the effect of promoting differentiation.

9) The organic combination of the tetrandra root extract and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate which are main anti-allergic components in the Comthing Tetra is adopted, wherein the tetrandrine extract is used as an effective component, can inhibit mitogen-stimulated lymphocyte proliferation, improve cell immunity, inhibit the generation of oxygen free radicals, inhibit lipid peroxidation, eliminate seborrheic dermatitis, inhibit edema induced by arachidonic acid and cross glycoside, and almost completely inhibit the activity of hyaluronidase; the dipotassium glycyrrhizinate can stabilize the degranulation effect of mast cells, inhibit the release of histamine, have good inhibition effect on scalp itch, and avoid damage to scalp barriers and sedation sensitivity symptoms.

10) Through the scalp water-oil balance and microecological balance technology, the oil content is increased by 281.82-369.70% after 3-hour test, and compared with a control sample, the oil content is inhibited by 334-421.88%, so that the scalp oil secretion can be effectively inhibited, the scalp is kept fresh, and the alopecia risk is reduced.

11) According to the invention, the scalp water content is improved by scalp water-oil balance and scalp barrier repair technology, the scalp water content is improved by 64.56-75.7% after 90min of test, and compared with a control sample, the scalp water content is improved by 26.2-37.32%.

12) The scalp moisture loss is reduced by scalp water-oil balance and scalp barrier repair technology, the scalp moisture loss is reduced by 21.11-26.82% after 90min of test, and the scalp moisture loss is reduced by 24.7-35.82% compared with a control sample.

13) According to the invention, through a microecological balance technology, a grease balance technology and a barrier repair technology, the NO inhibition rate is 15.15% -21.06% through detection, compared with a control sample, the NO inhibition rate is improved to 13.69% -19.6%, the release of an inflammation characterization factor NO can be effectively inhibited, the scalp desquamation can be avoided, and the dryness and the pruritus can be reduced.

14) According to the invention, through a microecological balance technology, an oil balance technology and a barrier repair technology, evaluation shows that the self evaluation of dandruff is 83.5-94.68, the scalp basically has no dandruff, the self evaluation of pruritus symptoms reaches 86.4-96.31, a tested person effectively reduces the pruritus symptoms, and tests prove that the scalp desquamation can be effectively inhibited and the pruritus can be reduced.

The core technology layout is shown in the following table.

In one specific example, the scalp care composition comprises the following components in parts by mass: 1-5 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-0.5 part of inositol, 0.1-1 part of caprylyl glycine, 0.05-1 part of oil control plant extract, 0.02-1 part of first balance composition, 0.05-1 part of second balance composition, 0.02-1 part of common jujube bark extract, 0.1-2 parts of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 0.1-3 parts of ecdysteroid, 0.1-1 part of itching relieving and allergy resisting composition and 0.05-1 part of metabolic balance composition.

In one specific example, the scalp care composition comprises the following components in parts by mass: 1-3 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-0.3 part of inositol, 0.3-0.8 part of caprylyl glycine, 0.3-0.6 part of oil control plant extract, 0.3-0.7 part of first balance composition, 0.4-0.8 part of second balance composition, 0.3-0.7 part of common jujube bark extract, 0.3-0.8 part of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 0.1-0.5 part of ecdysteroid, 0.3-0.8 part of itching relieving and anti-allergic composition and 0.1-0.4 part of metabolic balance composition.

In one specific example, the scalp care composition comprises the following components in parts by mass: 2 parts of nicotinamide, 0.2 part of inositol, 0.5 part of caprylyl glycine, 0.5 part of oil-controlling plant extract, 0.5 part of first balance composition, 0.6 part of second balance composition, 0.5 part of common jujube bark extract, 0.5 part of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 0.3 part of ecdysteroid, 0.5 part of itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition and 0.2 part of metabolic balance composition.

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the extract of the oil-controlling plant to the extract of the European herb chrysanthemum, the extract of the nettle, the extract of the horsetail herb, the extract of the rosemary, the extract of the melissa, the extract of the horse chestnut seed, the extract of the sage and the extract of coltsfoot is (0.1-1): 0.1-1: (0.1-1): 0.1-1). In one particular example, the oil control plant extract further comprises the following components: water, propylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, glucose and lactic acid. It is understood that these components are merely used as auxiliary materials, not as active ingredients, and whether or not to be added may be selected depending on the type of product, etc. For example, the composition of the oil-controlling plant extract is shown in the following table, but not limited thereto, and the kind and ratio of the auxiliary materials may be adjusted according to the type of the product and the like.

Components	Mass percent (%)
		Water (W)	25～50
Propylene glycol	25～50
		Ethoxy diglycol	10～25
Glucose	1～5
		Lactic acid	1～5
Horse chestnut seed extract	0.1～1
		Salvia officinalis extract	0.1～1
Equisetum arvense extract	0.1～1
		Coltsfoot extract	0.1～1
Rosemary leaf extract	0.1～1
		Urtica dioica extract	0.1～1
Extract of Ouguium officinale	0.1～1
		Melissa extract	0.1～1

Optionally, the first balancing composition has a mass ratio of inulin to gluco-oligosaccharide of (0.6-0.74): 0.01-0.15. For example, the composition of the first balancing composition is shown in the following table, but is not limited thereto, and the auxiliary materials may be added or removed as needed.

Components	Mass percent%
		Inulin powder
	60
		Glucose oligosaccharide	15
Water (W)	25

Optionally, the itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition comprises the tetrandra root extract, potassium lactate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and phenoxyethanol in a mass ratio of (0.2-0.4): (0.55-0.75): (0.1-0.3): (0.4-0.6). For example, the antipruritic and antiallergic compositions are shown in the following table, but not limited thereto, and the amount of the auxiliary materials may be increased or decreased as necessary.

Components	Mass percent%
		Stephania tetrandra extract	0.3
Potassium lactate	0.65
		Glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium salt	0.2
Phenoxyethanol	0.5
		Water (W)	To 100

In a specific example, in the second equilibrium composition, the mass percentage of the acetyl heptapeptide-4 is 0.045% to 0.055%, the mass percentage of the octylglycol is 0.45% to 0.55%, and the balance may be water or the like. For example, the composition of the second balancing composition is shown in the following table, but is not limited thereto, and the auxiliary materials may be added or removed as needed.

Components	Mass percent%
		Water (W)	99.395～99.505
Acetyl heptapeptide-4	0.045～0.055
		Octylene glycol	0.45～0.55

In one embodiment, the mass ratio of acetyl heptapeptide-4 to caprylyl glycol in the second equilibrium composition is (0.45-0.55): (4.5-5.5). For example, the composition of the second balancing composition is shown in the following table, but is not limited thereto, and the auxiliary materials may be added or removed as needed.

Optionally, the metabolic balance composition has a mass ratio of magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, and copper gluconate of (4.5-5.0) to (0.3-0.8). For example, the composition of the metabolic balance composition is shown in the following table, but is not limited thereto, and the amount of the auxiliary materials may be increased or decreased as necessary.

Components	Mass percent%	Remarks for note
			Aspartic acid magnesium salt	4.5～5.0
Zinc gluconate	4.5～5.0
			Gluconic acid copper salt	0.3～0.8
Water (W)	88.2～91.6
			Hydroxy phenyl methyl ester	0.1～1	Preservative

The invention also provides an application of the scalp care composition in a washing and caring product.

In a particular example, the shampoo is selected from a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair oil, or a scalp care essence.

In a specific example, the washing and caring product further comprises the following components in parts by mass: 2-4 parts of glycerol, 1-3 parts of propylene glycol, 4-6 parts of butanediol, 0.005-0.015 part of oligomeric hyaluronic acid, 0.1-0.2 part of allantoin and 0.1-1 part of arginine. It is understood that the components are auxiliary materials, do not belong to active ingredients, and can be added or not according to needs.

The following are specific examples.

First, scalp care essence is prepared

Scalp care essence is prepared according to the formula of the following table (the balance being deionized water), and the preparation process taking the example 2 as an example is as follows:

weighing glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, oligomeric hyaluronic acid, allantoin and xanthan gum (0.15% by mass) according to a formula, heating to 75-80 ℃, and stirring for 30min at 500-600 r/min until all components are dissolved. Then sequentially adding nicotinamide, inositol, caprylyl glycine, arginine, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, M3 and Fensebiole Peptide, stirring at 500-600 r/min for 15min until neutralization is completed, and completely dissolving. Reducing the temperature to 45-50 ℃, gradually adding M82N, the ecological nutrient solution, the common jujube bark extract, the ecdysteroid and the itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition, and stirring for 15min at 200-300 r/min. Reducing the temperature to 38-45 ℃, adding preservative PHL (1% by mass), stirring for 10min at a speed of 150-200 r/min, and cooling to room temperature. It is understood that the preparation method is not limited thereto, and may be selected according to the type of product and the use method, and whether preservatives and other inactive ingredients are added may be selected according to need. The weight ratio of the European medicine chrysanthemum extract, the nettle extract, the horsetail extract, the rosemary extract, the melissa extract, the horse chestnut seed extract, the sage extract and the coltsfoot extract in the oil control plant extract is 1:1:1:1:1: 1. In the first balancing composition, the mass ratio of inulin to gluco-oligosaccharide was 0.6: 0.15. In the second equilibrium composition, the mass ratio of acetyl heptapeptide-4 to caprylyl glycol was 0.5: 5. In the itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition, the mass ratio of the tetrandra root extract, the potassium lactate, the dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and the phenoxyethanol is 0.3:0.65:0.2: 0.5. In the metabolism balance composition, the mass ratio of the magnesium aspartate, the zinc gluconate and the copper gluconate is 4.8:4.8: 0.5.

Second, evaluation of efficacy

1. Determination of oil content

Principle of testing

The efficacy of the oil absorption paper using effect is evaluated by a skin oil tester Sebumeter SM815 of German CK. The oil content test adopts a world recognized SEBUMETER method, which is based on the principle of photometer, after a special extinction adhesive tape with the thickness of 0.1mm absorbs oil on human skin, the special extinction adhesive tape becomes a semitransparent adhesive tape, the light transmission quantity of the semitransparent adhesive tape changes, the more the absorbed oil, the greater the light transmission quantity, and thus, the content of the skin oil can be measured. The test probe has the greatest advantages of small volume and convenient use, and can test any part of the skin. This is an indirect measurement of the secretion of the oil glands, and the result can be used to distinguish between different skin types, making it possible to accurately understand the changes in oil caused by internal and external causes.

Test method

The test selects 21 test objects, 3 people are divided into 7 groups, 3 areas with the size of 3cm × 3cm are drawn on the forehead respectively, skin oil content evaluation is carried out on blank samples (without wiping samples), a control sample 1, other control samples and example samples respectively, three average values of each sample are taken to calculate the oil content increment percentage for relevant evaluation, the skin health of the selected test objects is 18-30 years old, after the test objects agree, the oil content of the forehead of the test objects is measured as an initial value after the test objects clean the face for 15 minutes, the sample is not smeared on the blank area of the forehead of the test objects, 0.5ml of corresponding essence is weighed in the area of the control sample 1 and the experimental area, the skin is soaked and covered by 3cm × 3cm non-woven fabric membrane cloth for 20 minutes, the non-woven fabric is taken down, the non-woven fabric is left for 10 minutes, the oil content measurement is carried out on the three areas respectively, the oil content is tested once every 30 minutes, the evaluation is carried out continuously carried out for 3 hours, the test environment temperature T is 25 ℃, the relative humidity H is 50%, the initial humidity T is carried out before the test, the oil content of the test objects is carried out after the test for 15 minutes, the original face, the oil content of the essential oil.

Test results

The results of the measurements for the blank and each control, example, are shown in the following table and FIG. 18.

And (4) conclusion: the scalp care composition of the embodiment of the invention can effectively inhibit the increase of the grease content of the scalp, the grease content is increased to 281.82-369.70% after 3-hour evaluation, and the grease content is effectively inhibited to 334-421.88% compared with a control sample, thereby proving that the scalp care composition of the invention can effectively inhibit the secretion of the grease of the scalp, keep the scalp fresh and reduce the risk of alopecia.

2. MMV test for skin moisture content

Principle of testing

The method adopts a capacitance method to test the moisture content of the horny layer of the human skin, the principle is that the capacitance value of the skin is different according to the difference of the water content of the skin based on the obvious difference of the dielectric constants of water and other substances, and the observation parameters can represent the moisture value of the skin.

Test equipment

A multifunctional skin tester, model CUTOMETER DUAL MPA 580, from CK, Germany, selects a skin moisture content test probe and a skin moisture loss TEWL test probe.

Test conditions and volunteer requirements

And (3) testing environmental conditions: the testing environment temperature is 22 +/-1 ℃, the relative humidity is 50% +/-5%, and real-time dynamic detection is carried out;

the volunteer requires: 30 effective volunteers are 16-65 years old (except pregnant or lactating women), the basic value of the significance of forearm testing area capacitance skin moisture determination is 15-100, the patients have no serious systemic diseases, immunodeficiency or autoimmune diseases, patients without active allergic diseases, the patients who have no history of serious allergy to skin care cosmetics in the past, the patients who have not used hormone medicines and immunosuppressants in the last month, the patients who have not participated in other clinical testers, the tested medicines are used according to the regulations, the data are complete, and all the volunteers fill in informed consent before the test.

Preparation before testing

Any product (cosmetics or external medicine) can not be used 2-3 days before the test. Before the experiment, the subject should agree to clean the forearm of both hands, measure the forearm and wipe it clean with dry tissue. After cleaning, the inner forearm of the test subject is marked with a measuring area. Before formal test, sitting still in a room meeting the standard for at least 30min, no drinking water, exposing forearms, placing in a test state, and keeping relaxed.

Test procedure

In the experiment, 3cm × 3cm test area is marked on the inner side of the left and right arms, multiple areas can be marked on the same arm, test products and blank control with area interval of 1 cm. are randomly distributed on the left and right arms, the measurement of the tested area and blank area is carried out by using a capacitance method skin tester, each area is measured according to parallel 15 times, blank paper of each test area is measured, and then 2.0 +/-0.1 mg sample/cm is measured²The sample was evenly spread over the test area using a latex finger cuff. The skin moisture content was measured at 0.5 hour, 1 hour, 1.5 hour after application in the test area and in the blank area (measured at this time during the verification) and was tested by the same test person in the same volunteer.

Test data

The results of the tests for each of the control and example samples are shown in the following table and in FIG. 19.

And (4) conclusion: the scalp care composition of the embodiment of the invention can improve the moisture content by 64.56-75.7% in 90min, and improve the moisture content by 26.2-37.32% compared with a control sample, and can effectively improve the moisture content of the scalp.

3. Percutaneous Water loss TEWL test

Principle of testing

The measurement principle of the test instrument is derived from FICK Fick diffusion law: dm/dt ═ d.a.dp/dx. Two groups of temperature and humidity sensors are used for measuring the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the loss of moisture in the near epidermis (within about 1 cm) from the cuticle at different bright points, and the moisture content of the percutaneous emission is directly measured. The TEWL value is an important indicator of the quality of the skin barrier, and a lower TEWL value indicates a better barrier function of the skin, whereas a worse.

Test conditions and volunteer requirements

And (3) testing environmental conditions: the test environment temperature is 22 +/-1 ℃, the relative humidity is 50 +/-5%, and real-time dynamic detection is carried out. The volunteer requires: at least 30 effective volunteers are aged between 16 and 65 years (except pregnant or lactating women), the basic value of the significance of capacitance skin moisture determination of a forearm testing area is 15 to 100, the forearm testing area has no serious systemic diseases, patients without immunodeficiency or autoimmune diseases, patients without active allergic diseases, the patients who have no serious allergic history to skin care cosmetics, the patients who have not used hormone medicines and immunosuppressants in the last month, the patients who do not participate in other clinical testers, the tested medicines are used according to the regulations, the data are complete, and all the volunteers fill in informed consent before the test.

Preparation before testing

Any product (cosmetics or external medicine) cannot be used 2-3 days before the tested part. Before the experiment, the subject had to agree to clean the inner forearm and wipe clean with dry tissue. After cleaning, the inner forearm of the test subject is marked with a measuring area. Before formal test, sitting still in a room meeting the standard for at least 30min, no drinking water, exposing forearms, placing in a test state, and keeping relaxed.

Test procedure

In the experiment, the inner sides of the left and right arms are marked with 3cm × 3cm test area, the same arm can be marked with multiple areas, the test products and blank control with the area interval of 1 cm. are randomly distributed on the left and right arms, the measurement of the tested area and the control area is carried out by using a capacitance method skin tester, each area is measured according to the parallel method for 15 times, the blank paper of each test area is measured, and then the sample is measured according to the sample/cm of 2.0 +/-0.1 mg²The test sample was evenly spread into the test area using a latex finger cuff. The skin moisture content was measured at 0.5, 1, 1.5 hours after application in the test area and in the blank control area (measured at this time during the test) and was tested by the same test person in the same volunteer.

Test results

The results of the tests for each of the control and example samples are shown in the following table and in FIG. 20:

and (4) conclusion: the composition of the embodiment of the invention can reduce the scalp moisture loss by 21.11-26.82% in 90min and 24.7-35.82% compared with a control sample, and can fully nourish the scalp to avoid the scalp from being dry and itching due to lack of water.

4. Inhibition of NO release by RAW264.7 cells induced by LPS

Principle of testing

LPS (lipopolysaccharide): a thicker (8-10 nm) layer of lipoid polysaccharide substance located on the outermost layer of gram-negative bacteria cell wall consists of lipoid A, core polysaccharide and O-specific side chain 3. Lipopolysaccharides are endotoxins and important group-specific antigens (O antigens). Lipopolysaccharide consists of three parts. Lipid a (lipid a) is a glycolipid that constitutes endotoxin activity, covalently linked to a heteropolysaccharide chain, with two parts: one is the core polysaccharide, which is constant within the strain concerned; the other O-specific chain (O-specific chain) is highly variable. Lipopolysaccharide of Escherichia coli is a commonly used B cell mitogen, polyclonal activator (polyclonal activator) in laboratory immunology. In the experiment, LPS is used for inducing RAW264.7 cells to generate anaphylactic reaction and release NO (nitric oxide).

Method for testing content of Griess assay-NO

NO is very easily oxidized to NO in vivo or in aqueous solution₂Under the acidic condition, NO and diazonium salt sulfanilamide have diazotization reaction, diazotization compounds are generated, the diazotization compounds further have coupling reaction with naphthyl ethylene diamine, the concentration of the generated products has linear relation with the concentration of NO, and the maximum absorption peak is at 540 nm.

Thinning RAW264.7The cells were pipetted into DMEM medium by pipette to blow off the dispersed cells, counted by Hemacytometer, and then diluted to 5 × 10⁴cells/ml diluted cell solutions were seeded into 96 wells at 100. mu.l/well, i.e. 5 × 10³cells/well. At 37 ℃ 5% CO₂Was cultured in an incubator for 24 hours. The sample to be tested was diluted with DMEM medium to a concentration of 1% (this concentration passed the MTT test, the result was non-toxic). After 24 hours of cell culture, the cells were observed for complete adherent growth, and if the cells were complete adherent growth, the original medium was removed and washed with DPBS. After DPBS removal, the previously prepared samples were added separately. Solubility of the samples A safe concentration of 1% (20. mu.l/well) was chosen depending on the results of the toxicity test. After the addition of the sample, the mixture was incubated at 37 ℃ in an incubator containing 5% CO2 for 20 hours. After 20 hours, 50. mu.l of the medium was transferred to a new 96Well, and 1% Griess reagent was added to the same volume, and after thorough mixing, the reaction was carried out for 10 minutes in the dark. The samples were tested for absorbance at 540nm using an ELISA reader. The NO Inhibition (% NO Inhibition) (((OD) s. [ OD ] s. [ Sample)/[ OD ] s. [ Control) ] 100% was calculated, where: OD is taken as the absorbance value of the blank Sample, and OD is taken as the absorbance value of the Sample.

Test results

The results of the tests for each of the control and example samples are shown in the following table and FIG. 21.

Item	Reduction in NO Release amount (%)	Standard deviation of
			Control 1	1.46	0.66
Control 2	10.68	4.10
			Control 3	14.57	3.52
Control 4	13.03	4.70
			Example 1	15.15	2.46
Example 2	16.47	4.55
			Example 3	21.06	1.02

And (4) conclusion: the composition of the embodiment of the invention can effectively inhibit NO release, effectively reduce the NO release amount by 15.15-21.06%, improve the inhibition rate by 13.69-19.6% compared with a control sample, effectively inhibit the release of an inflammation characterization factor NO, avoid the desquamation of scalp, and reduce dryness and pruritus.

5. Scalp in vitro evaluation

Evaluating an object

The dandruff and pruritus groups are included into the standard: the test paper is suitable for 21 subjects with the age of 20-50 years, wherein 14 men and 7 women are willing to participate in the experiment and sign an informed consent under the current situation of dandruff and pruritus with different degrees, and severe exercise is avoided on the day of enrollment experiment and follow-up test later. The testers are divided into 1-7 groups by taking 2 men and 1 woman as a group.

Test reagent

Subjects were divided into 7 groups and each control and example sample was evaluated separately. After shampooing the scalp with the same shampoo as specified, the subjects applied the corresponding test samples to the scalp every two days. The using method comprises the following steps: firstly, washing hair with shampoo once, washing clean, then massaging scalp with scalp essence for 3min, and finally washing clean.

Evaluation method

The 7 groups of subjects were scored for dandruff and itching using an assessment of 14 days, with 3 average scores for the final score of each group. The evaluation was performed on the 0, 1,2, and 3-point scale, and the subject self-assessment criteria are shown in the following table:

rank of	Description of the invention	Evaluation score range
			0	Has no dandruff and pruritus	75-100
1	Slight dandruff and itching	50-75
			2	Moderate dandruff and itching	25-50
3	Severe dandruff and itching sensation	0-25

Test results

The evaluation results of each of the control and example samples are shown in the following table and fig. 22.

Item	Dandruff	Itching (pruritus)
			Control 1	57.20	48.80
Control 2	71.90	69.30
			Control 3	79.80	80.10
Control 4	53.30	51.90
			Example 1	83.50	86.40
Example 2	91.50	90.33
			Example 3	94.68	96.31

And (4) conclusion: the evaluation shows that the self-evaluation of dandruff is 83.5-94.68, the scalp basically has no dandruff, the self-evaluation of the itching symptom reaches 86.4-96.31, and a tested person effectively reduces the itching symptom, so that the composition can effectively inhibit dandruff of the scalp and reduce itching.

The technical features of the embodiments described above may be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the embodiments described above are not described, but should be considered as being within the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.

The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims

1. A scalp care composition comprising a skin lipid-balancing composition, a skin microecological balancing composition and a skin barrier repair composition;

the skin lipid balance composition comprises niacinamide, inositol, caprylyl glycine and oil control plant extract; the oil control plant extract comprises flos Callicarpae Formosanae extract, herba Urticae Cannabinae extract, herba Equiseti Arvinsis extract, herba Rosmarini officinalis extract, herba Melissae axillaris extract, horse chestnut seed extract, herba Salvia officinalis extract and coltsfoot extract; in the oil control plant extract, the mass ratio of the European aster extract, the nettle extract, the horsetail extract, the rosemary extract, the melissa extract, the horse chestnut seed extract, the sage extract and the coltsfoot extract is (0.1-1): 0.1-1: (0.1-1): 0.1-1);

the skin microecological balance composition comprises a first balance composition, a second balance composition and a date tree bark extract; the first balancing composition comprises inulin and gluco-oligosaccharide, and the second balancing composition comprises acetyl heptapeptide-4 and caprylyl glycol; in the first balancing composition, the mass ratio of the inulin to the glucose oligosaccharide is (0.6-0.74): 0.01-0.15; in the second balanced composition, the mass ratio of the acetyl heptapeptide-4 to the caprylyl glycol is (0.45-0.55) to (4.5-5.5);

the skin barrier repair composition comprises sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, ecdysteroid, an antipruritic and antiallergic composition and a metabolic balance composition; the itching relieving and allergy resisting composition comprises a tetrandra root extract, potassium lactate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and phenoxyethanol, and the metabolic balance composition comprises magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate and copper gluconate; in the itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition, the mass ratio of the tetrandra root extract to the potassium lactate to the dipotassium glycyrrhizinate to the phenoxyethanol is (0.2-0.4): (0.55-0.75): (0.1-0.3): 0.4-0.6); in the metabolic balance composition, the mass ratio of the magnesium aspartate, the zinc gluconate and the copper gluconate is (4.5-5.0) to (0.3-0.8);

the mass parts of the components are as follows: 1-3 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-0.3 part of inositol, 0.3-0.8 part of caprylyl glycine, 0.3-0.6 part of oil control plant extract, 0.3-0.7 part of first balance composition, 0.4-0.8 part of second balance composition, 0.3-0.7 part of common jujube bark extract, 0.3-0.8 part of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 0.1-0.5 part of ecdysteroid, 0.3-0.8 part of itching relieving and anti-allergic composition and 0.1-0.4 part of metabolic balance composition.

2. A scalp care composition according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass: 2 parts of nicotinamide, 0.2 part of inositol, 0.5 part of caprylyl glycine, 0.5 part of oil-controlling plant extract, 0.5 part of first balance composition, 0.6 part of second balance composition, 0.5 part of common jujube bark extract, 0.5 part of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 0.3 part of ecdysteroid, 0.5 part of itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition and 0.2 part of metabolic balance composition.

3. A scalp care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the second balancing composition has a mass ratio of the acetyl heptapeptide-4 to the caprylyl glycol of 0.5: 5; in the metabolic balance composition, the mass ratio of the magnesium aspartate, the zinc gluconate and the copper gluconate is 4.8:4.8: 0.5.

4. The scalp care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the oil control plant extract comprises an extract of Callistephus spicatus, an extract of Urtica dioica, an extract of Equisetum arvense, an extract of Rosmarinus officinalis, an extract of Melissa officinalis, an extract of Aesculus hippocastanum, an extract of Salvia officinalis and an extract of Fatsia japonica at a mass ratio of 1:1:1:1:1:1: 1; in the first balancing composition, the mass ratio of inulin to gluco-oligosaccharide is 0.6: 0.15; in the itching-relieving and anti-allergy composition, the mass ratio of the tetrandra root extract to the potassium lactate to the dipotassium glycyrrhizinate to the phenoxyethanol is 0.3:0.65:0.2: 0.5.

5. Use of a scalp care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in the preparation of a shampoo selected from the group consisting of shampoos and conditioners.

6. A shampoo comprising the scalp care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the shampoo is selected from the group consisting of a shampoo and a conditioner.

7. The wash care product of claim 6, further comprising the following components: glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, oligomeric hyaluronic acid, allantoin and arginine.