CN104287982B - Dandruff removal composition for adjusting oil balance of scalp - Google Patents

Dandruff removal composition for adjusting oil balance of scalp Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104287982B
CN104287982B CN201410452863.2A CN201410452863A CN104287982B CN 104287982 B CN104287982 B CN 104287982B CN 201410452863 A CN201410452863 A CN 201410452863A CN 104287982 B CN104287982 B CN 104287982B
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scalp
composition weight
percentage ratio
weight percentage
dandruff
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CN104287982A (en
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赵文忠
洪盛杰
谷志静
胡卫华
董志扬
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Lafang China Co ltd
Institute of Microbiology of CAS
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Lafang China Co ltd
Institute of Microbiology of CAS
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Priority to PCT/CN2014/093562 priority patent/WO2016033899A1/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and concretely relates to a dandruff removal composition for adjusting the oil balance of scalp. The composition contains a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a scalp barrier protection agent and a scalp sebum adjusting agent, and concretely comprises 0.001-1.0wt% of palmitoylethanolamine, 0.01-20wt% of N-acetylethanolamine, 0.01-2wt% of tetrahydropyrimidine or hydroxytetrahydropyrimidine, 0.1-15wt% of trimethylglycine salicylate and 0.05-3wt% of vitamin B12, wherein a weight ratio of palmitoylethanolamine to N-acetylethanolamine is 1:100. The dandruff removal composition can be used in dandruff removal hair conditioners, dandruff removal shampoos and the like, and has the dandruff removal advantage in a dew formula form.

Description

A kind of desquamation compositions for adjusting scalp oils and fatss balance
Technical field
The invention belongs to household chemicals field, and in particular to a kind of compositionss by adjusting the scurf of scalp sebum balance.
Background technology
Dandruff be and scalp and give birth to, be scalp horn cell hyperplasia and a large amount of desquamation phenomenons for causing, China is about The adult for having 60% is perplexed by dandruff problem to some extent, wherein 15% people's symptom is extremely serious.At present, although The personal care product that anti-dandruff function is declared emerges in an endless stream, but the people using in anti-dandruff product crowd 70% thinks effect and pays no attention to Think.
The pathogenesis of the dandruff are not yet clear and definite so far, for the cause of the dandruff has several theories, most important of which It is the mechanism of action of chlosma.Numerous studies prove that chlosma is closely related with the generation of the dandruff and the order of severity.Horse Amount reproduction of the color bacterium on scalp is drawn to cause the cuticular hyperplasia of scalp, so as to promote corneocyte with white or ash The form of color squama comes off extremely, and this squama for coming off is the dandruff.
Chlosma belongs to budding fungus unicellular fungi, is survived by the fatty acid consumed in sebum.It is fat according to Bad type, it is easy to be grown on the abundant skin of sebum.Chlosma forms the mechanism of action in the cause of disease in dandruff:Horse on scalp Draw color bacterium by discharging the triglyceride in lipase decomposition sebum, cause the hydrolysis of triglyceride so as to produce unsaturated lipid Fat acid, they destroy scalp barrier-horny layer, cause the endosmosis entrance epidermis of unsaturated fatty acid, stimulate skin to generate inflammation Disease is reacted.It is to cause the hyperplasia of scalp horn cell that chlosma causes the result of inflammatory reaction, typically can also be with head The abnormal generation of skin ultrastructure, including incomplete, the abnormal cutin envelope of keratinization, be comprised in scalp cells in and iuntercellular Lipid etc..
From the classification and mechanism of action analysis of anti-dandruff agent, following three types are broadly divided into:One is horny layer exfoliant, thin Intracellular growth inhibitor and anti-microbial agents.Horny layer cracking-off agent is to remove the epidermis cell being damaged in horny layer by desquamation, And reach and remove dandruff effect.The anti-dandruff agent of early stage, such as salicylic acid, sulfur and the shampoo containing coal tar belong to this Class.But the abnormal smells from the patient of such product is poor, and zest is stronger, its effect is not better than other anti-dandruff products, and prolonged application The Equilibrium that epidermal structure upsets epidermis can be destroyed, has certain injury to skin, life-time service may cause skin allergy Prurituss;Two is cytostatic agent, mainly depends on its reduction corneocyte by suppressing cellular replication, its activity Substitute speed, as the normal physiological processes of the recovery of cell regeneration cycle period length, keratinization and desquamation also make moderate progress, Selenium Sulfide just belongs to this class.Most cytostatic agents have the function of certain antimicrobial acivity, general next Say, the people more than the dandruff for causing because of scalp oiliness greatly can use, but many clinical experiments show that this kind of medicine can not be fine The clinical symptoms of ground control dandruff, and its main component zest is strong, feels rough using rear hair quality, if rinsing not thoroughly, Hair may decolourize, and small part user can increase alopecia, and the problems such as there is also abnormal flavour;The third type is to resist micro- life Thing preparation, is that, by suppressing or destruction microbiological entities forming come the purpose for reaching the suppression dandruff, its dandruff is acted on Depending on can reduce or control scalp chlosma number.It is gradually apparent with chlosma pathogenesis, resist micro- Biological preparation is widely used in anti-dandruff product.At present, ketone health in the shampoo of dandruff in pharmacy or supermarket Azoles, climbazole and pyrithione zinc belong to anti-microbial agents.Shampoo containing Ketoconazole and climbazole composition is more in doctor Institute and pharmacy sale, the such as shampoo such as Cai Lekang king.Anti-dandruff hair products containing pyrithione zinc ZPT are more in market and barber shop Sale, the such as anti-dandruff shampoo such as Head&Shoulders, Avon, but there is also the problems such as dissolubility is poor, degreasing power is stronger.
Main product in the market is reached by the number for suppressing the growth of microorganism i.e. suppression to kill chlosma Dandruff purpose, overall anti-dandruff effect is also good, but unique defect is the main flow anti-dandruff agent such as pyrithione zinc of anti-microbial effect ZPT, with stronger defat, causes scalp stratum corneum barrier function to suffer to some extent while chlosma is killed Destruction is (see United States Patent (USP) PAT.NO.5053222.The disappearance of scalp stratum corneum barrier function is easy to stimulate and be led to scalp oils and fatss point Secrete unbalance, so as to be led to the invasion of various antibacterials and funguses, everything can all cause the changeable of dandruff and head pruritus phenomenon, no The basic reason for easily solving.
Separately, studies have reported that, on the scalp of health, chlosma and the mankind live together peacefully, therefore the susceptibility of scalp And scalp fat secretion amount can keep relative poised state, the horn cell for normally coming off is fragmentary and transparent, cannot visually examine Feel.And this balance is once be broken, chlosma will distorted proliferation, cause epidermal metabolic to accelerate, epidermis cell can be in groups Sheet comes off.In turn, the recurrent exerbation of the dandruff makes scalp cells layer be badly damaged, and thinning scalp cells layer loses screen Barrier function so that dandruff phenomenon recurrent exerbation, it is difficult to achieve a solution.Therefore, the problem of the dandruff will be from improving scalp sebum Balance and set up scalp barrier function improvement start be the present invention emphasis.
The content of the invention
It is an object of the present invention to provide a kind of desquamation compositions for adjusting scalp sebum balance.The present composition is by scalp Sebum regulating agent and the agent of scalp barrier protection are constituted, and the barrier function for recovering and strengthening scalp by both effects is played and subtracted The effect of few dandruff.
The purpose of the present invention is realized by following technology:
A kind of desquamation compositions, in addition to acceptable carrier in cosmetics, containing the agent of scalp barrier protection and scalp skin Fat regulator, its component and content it is as follows:
(1) skin barrier protective agent:
To account for the N- Palmitylethanolamides of composition weight percentage ratio 0.001%-1.0% and accounting for composition weight percentage ratio N-acetyl ethanolamine for 0.01%-20% is constituted, and both weight ratios are 1:100;
Content accounts for the tetrahydropyrimidine or hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.01%-2%;
(2) scalp sebum regulating agent:
To account for the trimethyl glycine salicylate and account for composition weight that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.1%-15% Vitamin B of the percentage ratio for 0.05%-3%12
The desquamation compositions of the present invention, wherein N- Palmitylethanolamides content are optimized for accounting for composition weight percentage ratio and are 0.005%-0.5%;N-acetyl ethanolamine accounts for composition weight percentage ratio for 0.05%-10%.And N- Palmitylethanolamides and The weight ratio of N- Palmitylethanolamides is further optimized for 1:50.
The desquamation compositions of the present invention, wherein trimethyl glycine salicylate content are optimized for accounting for composition weight percentage Than for 0.2%-8%;Vitamin B12Content accounts for composition weight percentage ratio for 0.1%-2%.
The preferred hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine of skin barrier protective agent in the desquamation compositions of the present invention, its content account for composition weight Percentage ratio is 0.05%-1%.
The desquamation compositions of the present invention also contain the allantoin and account for for accounting for that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.05%-0.5% The glycerol of composition weight percentage ratio 5%.Wherein Content of Allantoin is optimized for the 0.08%- for accounting for composition weight percentage ratio 0.2%.
A kind of desquamation compositions, its component and content are:
The N- Palmitylethanolamides that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.0125% are accounted for,
The N-acetyl ethanolamine that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.625% is accounted for,
The hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.3% is accounted for,
The trimethyl glycine salicylate that composition weight percentage ratio is 3.4% is accounted for,
Account for the vitamin B that composition weight percentage ratio is 1%12,
The allantoin that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.1% is accounted for,
The glycerol of composition weight percentage ratio 5% is accounted for,
The HANSHENGJIAO of composition weight percentage ratio 0.15% is accounted for,
The disodiumedetate of composition weight percentage ratio 0.05% is accounted for,
PH value is adjusted to 7 by appropriate preservative, essence and pigment, balance of deionized water.
Invention beneficial effect:Desquamation compositions of the present invention, using non-traditional suppression and the method for killing chlosma, pass through The regulation of scalp sebum is achieved with the synergism of both scalp barrier protections, and both coordinated can help scalp recovery The water adipose membrane of normal thickness, sets up scalp lipid homeostasis, recovers scalp barrier function so as to play the work for reducing the dandruff With.The anti-dandruff technology of the present invention can be used for the anti-dandruff hair conditioner of hair, anti-dandruff shampoo etc., and desquamation compositions of the present invention are only with distillate medicinal water The form of formulations advantage anti-dandruff to annotate the present invention.
Specific embodiment
With reference to embodiment, the present invention is described in detail.
Generally we are divided into oiliness dandruff and dryness dandruff the dandruff, and oiliness dandruff is the dandruff that oily hair is produced, It is block big, it is easily adhered on scalp and hair, less to be shed to shoulder, color is partially yellow.Oiliness dandruff is due to excess oil Stimulate scalp and induce the excessive breeding of harmful bacteria (such as Malaysia color bacterium), so as to destroy the colony balance of scalp, cause scalp Developmental and Metabolic Disorder simultaneously causes the dead bark for coming off to increase, and the dandruff is produced in a large number, here it is our usually said oiliness dandruffs;It is dry Property the dandruff that produces of dandruff Dry Hair, it is block little and many, be easily shed to shoulder, color is partially white, and this is due to scalp oils and fatss Hyposecretion, the barrier function of scalp are lost, and the Developmental and Metabolic Disorder of scalp, the dead bark for coming off increase, so there is substantial amounts of scalp Bits, that is, our dryness dandruffs for generally saying.
Scalp oils and fatss have protection scalp barrier function, play a part of to moisten and protect scalp and hair, excessive not all right, It is few also not all right, therefore it is extremely important to find a kind of effective method for adjusting scalp sebum.
The effect that scalp sebum of the present invention is adjusted be scalp it is oily and dry between set up a kind of balance, i.e., by gentle Remove scalp lipid matter and prevent the hyperkeratosiss of scalp or the realization that comes off simultaneously, it is logical that conventional scalp oils and fatss adjust one It is to remove the epidermis cell being damaged in horny layer by desquamation to cross horny layer peeling, horny layer and strip off, and reaches removal dandruff effect Fruit.The anti-dandruff agent of early stage, such as salicylic acid, sulfur and the shampoo containing coal tar belong to this class.But such product Abnormal smells from the patient is poor, and zest is stronger, and its effect is not better than other anti-dandruff products, and prolonged application can also be destroyed epidermal structure and disturb The Equilibrium of random epidermis, has certain injury to skin, and life-time service may cause allergic skin itching;Two is by cell Growth inhibitor, used Selenium Sulfide in the past, mainly by suppressing the people more than the dandruff for causing because of scalp oiliness greatly Can use, but many clinical experiments show this kind of medicine and can not control the clinical symptoms of dandruff well, and its mainly into Divide Selenium Sulfide zest strong, feel rough using rear hair quality, if rinsing not thoroughly, hair may decolourize, and small part is used Person can increase alopecia, and the problems such as there is also abnormal flavour.
The present invention through substantial amounts of experiment, by the synergism of both scalp sebum regulating agent and scalp barrier protection agent Play a part of to reduce and suppress the dandruff, scalp sebum regulating agent of the present invention is using salicylic derivant and dimension life Plain B classes material, salicyclic acid derivatives are trimethyl glycine salicylate, can gently balance scalp sebum, vitamin(e) B group material Vitamin B is adopted then12,Vitamin B12The good nutrition scalp of energy simultaneously suppresses excessively coming off for scalp.Salicyclic acid derivatives and dimension Raw element B with the use of playing a key effect for the sebum of regulation scalp.
The present invention had found through substantial amounts of experiment, scalp barrier protection effect can by skin endogenous lipid composition and Extreme halotolerant Pseudomonas solute is achieved.In skin, endogenous lipid composition includes N- Palmitylethanolamides and N- acetyl alcohols Amine, extreme halotolerant Pseudomonas solute are the derivant hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine of tetrahydropyrimidine and tetrahydropyrimidine, can recover and strengthen head Skin barrier function.
The present invention is total to based on La Fangjiahua company limiteies, institute of microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences and BASF Aktiengesellschaft tripartite's Same effort, the problem of the research dandruff of starting with from the relatedness of scalp health, scalp microenvironment and the dandruff, the present invention are more specific Start with to the relation from research scalp horny layer malfunction with dandruff, be that new solution is found to anti-dandruff.With with Toward anti-dandruff technological means unlike, the present invention is that scalp is started with from the root of the dandruff, by recovering and strengthening scalp The function of stratum corneum barrier so that scalp can effectively resist the invasion of antibacterial and funguses, so as to further preventing and reducing dandruff Generation.
A kind of desquamation compositions of the present invention, are balanced by regulation scalp sebum and strengthen scalp barrier function to realize suppressing With the effect for reducing the dandruff.
It is wherein in desquamation compositions, in addition to acceptable carrier in cosmetics, as follows comprising active ingredient:
(1) scalp barrier protection agent is made up of skin endogenous lipid composition and extreme halotolerant Pseudomonas solute:
Skin endogenous lipid composition be account for composition weight percentage ratio 0.001%-1.0% N- Palmitylethanolamides and The N-acetyl ethanolamine that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.01%-20% is accounted for, and both weight ratios are 1:100;Extreme halotolerant Pseudomonas solute is tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine one kind therein,
(2) scalp sebum regulating agent is to account for the trimethyl glycine salicylic acid that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.1%-15% Ester and account for composition weight percentage ratio be 0.05%-3% vitamin B12
Scalp barrier protection agent
Skin endogenous lipid composition:
In desquamation compositions of the present invention, the barrier protective agent of scalp is by skin endogenous lipid composition and Natrinema altunense sp Category solute composition:Wherein, skin endogenous lipid includes N- Palmitylethanolamides and N-acetyl ethanolamine.
N- Palmitylethanolamides in the present invention, its molecular formula C18H37NO2,Molecular weight 299.49g mol-159to60 DEG C of fusing point (138to140°F;332to333K).
Chemical structural formula:
N-acetyl ethanolamine in the present invention, its molecular formula is:CH3-CO-NH-C2H4OH, is sticky under the material room temperature Liquid, density (DIN/20 degree Celsius) 1.12, molecular weight 103,155 degrees Celsius of boiling point (5mmHg), density 1.052g/cm3
Chemical structural formula:
According to document report Chao Yuan, Xue-Min Wang, Clinical Interventions in Aging 2014:9 1163-1169.《The application of N- Palmitylethanolamides and N-acetyl ethanolamine in lipid dermatitises are lacked》Shanghai skin Sick hospital's skin and cosmetics portion, are a kind of endogenic fatty acid amides of skin, and the antiallergic for being used primarily for skin is used.
In the present invention, as scalp barrier protection agent, its skin endogenous lipid composition is further optimized for accounting for compositionss The N- Palmitylethanolamides of percentage by weight 0.005%-0.5% and account for composition weight percentage ratio be 0.05%-10% N- Acetyl ethanonlamine.
In the present invention, the weight ratio of N- Palmitylethanolamides and N- Palmitylethanolamides is further optimized for 1:50.
Scalp barrier protection agent
Extreme halotolerant Pseudomonas solute:
Moisture factor in human body skin, comprising lactic acid, sodium lactate, hyaluronic acid, carbamide, aminoacid, lecithin etc., is people The indispensable Moisture factor with physiological function in body skin.It is of the invention then be related to a kind of resistance to high salt of extreme environment The wetting agent extracted in high and cold microorganism (Natrinema altunense sp).
On the earth, the environment outside the biosphere of human living is referred to as extreme environment, that is, refers to that physico chemical factor reaches Or beyond the environment of life tolerance range, the microorganism that can be grown in extreme circumstances is referred to as the micro- life of for example thermophilic salt of extreme microorganism Thing, thermophilic microorganism, cryophile acidophilic microorganism etc., it is notable that these extreme microorganisms are not only " resistance to By " these extreme environments, and in order to preferably grow and breed, need one or more extreme condition, the wherein thermophilic salt of moderate Microorganism is one kind therein.
The present invention has been applied to a kind of microorganism grown in high salt and psychro-environment in extreme environment such as in happiness salt (China Agricultural University wins for the solute-tetrahydropyrimidine extracted in extra large coccus and color Halobacterium and its derivant hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine Bachelorship paper, Zhao 2005.11.16 hundred are locked) tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine have in protection microorganism as stabilizer Enzyme, DNA and macromole, for high salt tolerance is played in the microorganism of extreme environment, resist drying and prevents thermal denaturation etc. at anti-freezing Effect, is molecular chaperoneses and patron saint that extreme microorganism is able to survive in extreme circumstances.Tetrahydropyrimidine and hydroxy tetrahydro are phonetic Application of the pyridine in cosmetics is also increasingly subject to people's attention, and Merck KGaA company and institute of microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences grind System.
Solute component in Natrinema altunense sp (ha lomonas elongate) of the present invention is tetrahydropyrimidine or tetrahydropyrimidine Derivant hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine.Tetrahydropyrimidine chemical name is, 2 methyl isophthalic acids, 4,5,6- tetrahydropyrimidine, 4 formic acid, molecular formula: C6H10N2O2, molecular weight:142.2g/mol, LD50 (oral-rat) 2200mg/kg, white powder, SIGMA-ALDRICH, or Institute of microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences develops.
Hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine, chemical entitled, -4 carboxylic acid of (4S, 5S)-hydroxy-2-methyl -1.4.5.- tetrahydropyrimidines, molecule Amount:158.2g/mol, molecular formula:C6H10N2O3, white powder.SIGMA-ALDRICH, or the development of institute of microbiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences.
In scalp barrier protection agent of the present invention, the wherein preferred hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine of extreme halotolerant Pseudomonas solute, according to this It is 0.01%-2% that bright hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine accounts for composition weight percentage ratio, is further optimized for 0.05%-1%.
Scalp sebum regulating agent
Salicyclic acid derivatives:Salicylic acid has certain stimulation as scalp sebum inhibitor and scalp agents for defoliating to scalp Property, destruction is often played to scalp barrier, therefore, the present invention adopts salicylic derivant i.e., trimethyl glycine water Poplar acid esters.
Trimethyl glycine salicylate is similar to 'alpha '-hydroxy acids (AHAs) to the beta hydroxy acid (BHAs) in salicylic acid, tool There is the function of accelerating flakey horn cell to peel off, and zest is more much lower than 'alpha '-hydroxy acids (AHAs);In glycine betaine three Methylglycine has moisturizing, increases elasticity of skin and hydration, and the existing cationic charge of its molecular structure has anion again Electric charge, and human skin includes that scalp and hair are all negatively charged under general physiological condition, therefore its positive charge for containing Molecule has natural affinity to scalp and hair.Therefore, the trimethyl glycine salicylate that the present invention is used perfectly is tied The advantage of the salicylic acid from bark of willow extraction and the trimethyl glycine extracted from glycine betaine has been closed, the water of unique texture has been formed Poplar acid, can gently adjust the cuticular thickness of scalp so as in a kind of state of relative ideal, so as to contribute to scalp screen The formation and improvement of barrier function, has gentle regulating effect to lipid in scalp and hair.
In the present invention, scalp sebum regulating agent is to account for the trimethyl glycine that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.1%-15% Salicylate, one-step optimization of going forward side by side are weight percentage 0.2%-8%.
Scalp sebum regulating agent
Vitaminss:Vitamin includes that vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, and vitamin B etc. are all these The participant of human body physiological function the different degrees of effect of performer, wherein vitamin B group in terms of human body skin and metabolism Comprising species it is in the majority, the effect in terms of hair and scalp and its physiological function is also than more prominent.The wherein bag of vitamin B group Include B1、B2、B3、B5、B6、B12Deng according to conventional application and the report of document, provitamin B5Nourish with scalp and hair Effect is the fact that has been recognized that, Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, et al.Br J Dermatol.2000;143: 524-531. and J Cosmet Laser Ther.2006Jun;8(2):96-101. then reports vitamin B respectively3Have Strengthen the function of skin barrier and control skin fat secretion, United States Patent (USP) US6110472 discloses a kind of containing vitamin B12 Cosmetic composition be used for the process that comes off extremely of scalp.
The scalp sebum regulating agent of the present invention range of choice is vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B3, vitamin B6, dimension life Plain original B5, vitamin B12Vitamin(e) B group of the present invention further screens vitamin B3, vitamin B6And vitamin B12, and further Preferred vitamin B12
Vitamin B of the present invention12It is 0.05%-3% to account for composition weight percentage ratio, and one-step optimization of going forward side by side is 0.1%-2%.
Scalp agent:Scalp agent includes allantoin, licoflavone, glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium etc., wherein, glycyrrhizic acid two Potassium:White fine powder, the effects such as have sweet taste, have medicine, corticosteroid compound (suppression metabolic enzyme) can be activated.Strengthen indirectly cortex The effect of steroid, can be due to all cosmetics such as cream, frost, water, emulsion, milk and mel, and it with and/or can lower The noxious substance of cosmetics, it is also possible to the anaphylaxiss of the cosmetics for preventing, the specification on market be UV >=98%, HPLC >= 76% (referring to the effective ingredient of glycyrrhizic acid).Glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium chemical molecular formula C42H60K2O16, molecular weight 899.1128, pH value 5- 6。
Licoflavone is the natural component extracted from certain species Radix Glycyrrhizae, liquorice flavonoids compound liquiritin, Radix Glycyrrhizae Glycoside unit and Radix Asparagi phthalein amine, Mannitol etc., and the compound extracted from Radix Glycyrrhizae -- licoflavone has various in cosmetics Effect, meanwhile, licoflavone also suppresses tyrosinase activity, removes oxygen mesh by base, and which has the work of antiinflammatory, antiallergic action With.Licoflavone character:Brownish red thick liquid, water insoluble and various greases, is dissolved in ethanol, Propylene Glycol, glycerol and part Organic solvent.
Solid content >=20%, glabridin content >=0.38%, heavy metal:≤ 0.002%, flavone test:It is positive.
Allantoin Chinese nickname:Allantoin, Allantoin, Allantoin, molecular formula: C4H6O3N4, molecular weight:158.12, outward appearance:White crystalline powder, odorless tasteless, content (%) >=98.0, the double friends of Fauna of Kunshan, Jiangsu Daily use chemicals are produced.Allantoin has promotion cell growth, accelerates the physiological functions such as wound healing, horny layer softening albumen, is skin wound The good consolidant and antiulcer agents of wound.Can be used as alleviating and treat xeroderma, scaling dermatopathy, skin to burst Infectionss, there is good therapeutic effect.As allantoin is a kind of amphoteric compound, can form multiple with reference to many kinds of substance, make skin keep water Part, moisten and soft, be the additive of the cosmetics such as cosmetology, be widely used in freckle cream, anti-acne toner, shampoo, fancy soap, The additive of toothpaste, shaving lotion, conditioner, astringent, anti-antiperspirant deodorization lotion etc..The cosmetics of addition allantoin have protection Tissue, it is hydrophilic, absorb water and the effect such as prevent moisture from distributing;
The preferred allantoin of scalp agent in the present invention.
In the present invention, allantoin is mainly used in its effect of releiving to scalp, and correct skin horny layer has the effect for softening. Helping scalp to set up water adipose membrane strengthens the hydration of skin surface and the reduction of percutaneous water loss, increases so as to play collaboration The effect of strong skin barrier function.
It is 0.05%-0.5% that in the present invention, allantoin accounts for composition weight percentage ratio, and one-step optimization of going forward side by side is 0.08%- 0.2%.
Cosmetically acceptable carrier
Polyhydric alcohol:In the present invention polyhydric alcohol can be 1,3 butanediols, Propylene Glycol, glycerol (glycerol), 1,2- pentanediol, Ethanol etc., the present invention preferably glycerol, to account for composition weight percentage ratio 1% to 10%, one-step optimization of going forward side by side is to account for usage amount Composition weight percentage ratio 2% to 8%.
Thickening agent:The thickening agent that can be used in the present invention includes acrylate copolymer, carbomer, hydroxy ethyl fiber Element, HANSHENGJIAO etc., the present invention preferentially use HANSHENGJIAO, usage amount to go forward side by side to account for composition weight percentage ratio 0.02% to 0.5% One-step optimization is to account for composition weight percentage ratio 0.05% to 0.3%.
Chelating agen:The chelating agen that can be used in the present invention includes disodiumedetate and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid four Sodium, the present invention preferentially use disodiumedetate, and usage amount is to account for composition weight percentage ratio 0.01% to 0.1%, and Further it is optimized for accounting for composition weight percentage ratio 0.02% to 0.1%.
Preservative:The preservative that can be used in the present invention includes parabenses, diazonium alkyl ureas, phenoxyethanol Deng, the present invention preferentially uses phenoxyethanol, usage amount to account for composition weight percentage ratio 0.1% to 1.0%, one-step optimization of going forward side by side To account for composition weight percentage ratio 0.5% to 0.8%.
PH adjusting agent
The triethanolamine commonly used with aspect in pH adjusting agent formula technique in the present invention and citric acid.
Preparation method
A kind of desquamation compositions for adjusting scalp sebum balance of the present invention can be by any known or other are effectively suitable Prepared by the technology for providing Haircare composition, preparing the method for the present invention includes conventional preparation and hybrid technology.By this Disodiumedetate in bright composition, allantoin, HANSHENGJIAO, glycerol etc. are added in deionized water by weight percentage, plus Simultaneously stirring and dissolving, until transparent, is then stirred heat to 80 degree in cooling, when temperature is reduced to 45 degree, difference percentage by weight Than adding vitamin B12, N- Palmitylethanolamides, N-acetyl ethanolamine, hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine and trimethyl glycine salicylic acid Ester, stirs and dissolves, and is eventually adding preservative, essence, pigment, pH adjusting agent, and the pH adjusting agent of desquamation compositions is adjusted To 7.
Using method
A kind of desquamation compositions for adjusting scalp sebum balance of the present invention are made in the way of conventional cleaning and conditioning scalp With mainly including following step:
(A) with appropriate shampoo cleans hair, and rinse well;
(B) take this product appropriate, gently massaged about 1-2 minutes on scalp with finger belly, 5-15 minutes are wrapped up with hot towel;
(C) finally can be rinsed out with water, it is also possible to without rinsing;
These steps can be repeated as many times as desired, to reach sought nursing effect.
Embodiment
The non-limiting example of the desquamation compositions of the present invention is presented herein below.These embodiments are only given to illustrate Purpose, limitation of the invention can not be interpreted as because without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, can be with Many changes are carried out to the present invention.In these embodiments, unless stated otherwise, all of concentration is all percentage by weight.
Embodiment I-V
Embodiment VI-Ⅹ
Efficacy assessments
The efficacy assessments of the present invention are carried out based on the technological means adopted by desquamation compositions of the present invention.
Desquamation compositions of the present invention, using non-traditional suppression and the technical scheme of killing chlosma, but pass through scalp Sebum regulation is achieved with the synergism of both scalp barrier protections, and both coordinated can help scalp and recover normal The water adipose membrane of thickness, sets up scalp lipid homeostasis, recovers scalp barrier function so as to play a part of to reduce the dandruff.Cause This, passes through protective effect and sensory evaluation of the instrument TEWL methods testing example to scalp barrier function in terms of efficacy test The scoring evaluation of method testing example relieving itching and removing dandruff effect.
Wherein instrument test method, exactly tests the numerical value of scalp percutaneous water loss TEWL, and TEWL values are bigger, the water of scalp It is fast that shunting is lost, and illustrates that the barrier action of scalp is poorer, conversely, the TEWL values of test are less, illustrates that scalp keeps the energy of moisture Power is strong, then illustrate that scalp barrier function is strengthened, measuring instrument used in the present invention, model:Delfin/VapoMeter, surveys Amount scope:3-200g/m2h.Test position:Crown position.
Wherein sensory effects of the main testing example of sensory evaluation method to anti-dandruff, answer a sensory evaluation method It is:The embodiment of preparation is distributed to into tester, in using embodiment of the present invention sample, its living habit, in the past The shampoo brand for using does not change.The sample of not individual embodiment respectively uses surrounding, sensation of the tester according to oneself Scored, wherein antipruritic effect be the degree of the time and head pruritus started according to head pruritus scoring, anti-dandruff effect is according to head Bits number and size scoring.Tester uses desquamation compositions sample, is to use after hair washing, continuously using four Week, weekly using three times;Examination person according to oneself feel scored, wherein antipruritic effect and anti-dandruff effect are real according to using After applying example, the daystart of the 5th week calculates starting, is scored according to head pruritus and initial dandruff, if the 5th week Begin within first day head pruritus and comment 1 point, comment 2 points within second day, and so on, if starting within the 7th day head pruritus just comments 7 points.Standards of grading Made using 7 points, 1 point worst, and 7 points best, and fraction more high effect is more good better.Various desquamation compositions using effect evaluation results It is listed in table 1.
Choosing has dandruff than more serious (man, female do not limit), and 22, the age, between 20-40 year, is divided into two groups, and per group effectively 10 people of number, in using embodiment of the present invention sample, its living habit, the shampoo brand for using in the past do not occur Change.
First group, in 10 people, wherein 5 people are using blank 1, remaining 5 people using blank 2, drafted with the present invention by using method Using method be defined, and the 7th day respectively, the 14th day, the 21st day, determine when the 28th day scalp TEWL values (averaging) and The degree that the dandruff is observed according to requirements above is scored;
Second group, in 10 people, respectively using the embodiment of the present invention I to Ⅹ, the user that using method is drafted with the present invention Method is defined, and the 7th day respectively, the 14th day, the 21st day, the TEWL values of scalp are determined when the 28th day, and observes the degree of the dandruff Scored;
1 TEWL numerical value of table and anti-dandruff effect assessment
Show from result above:On request using present invention control blank 1, percutaneous water of the measurement using rear 7th day scalp Shunting is lost numerical value and uses rear 28th day scalp percutaneous water loss numerical value, and scalp percutaneous water loss numerical value subtracts within as a result the 28th day Few 0.8%, illustrate that the numerical value of the percutaneous water loss of scalp changes little using after blank 1;Present invention control blank 2, measurement Using the rear percutaneous water loss numerical value for measuring scalp on the 7th day with use rear 28th day scalp percutaneous water loss numerical value, as a result Scalp percutaneous water loss numerical value reduces 1.4% within 28th day, after illustrating to use blank 2, the numerical value of the percutaneous water loss of scalp Change little, be equal to and do not change.
And the embodiment of the present invention I to Ⅹ is compareed, the percutaneous water loss numerical value of the scalp for measuring had on the 28th day compared with the 7th day (such as reduced value minimum embodiment VI, TEWL reduces 15.7%, such as the maximum embodiment of reduced value for different degrees of reduction 34.6%) VII, TEWL reduce, and illustrate to be strengthened using scalp barrier function after the embodiment of the present invention;Sense organ is commented simultaneously The antipruritic effect and anti-dandruff effect numerical value that valency method is obtained is contrasted to have with blank 1 and blank 2 sensory effects for obtaining and is significantly carried Rise, the present invention is illustrated in the case where antibacterial and antibacterial is not contained, by adjusting scalp sebum balance and scalp barrier work( The enhancing of energy is played a part of to suppress and reduces the dandruff.

Claims (7)

1. a kind of desquamation compositions, in addition to acceptable carrier in cosmetics, containing the agent of scalp barrier protection and scalp sebum Regulator, its component and content it is as follows:
(1) skin barrier protective agent:
The N- Palmitylethanolamides for accounting for composition weight 0.001%-1.0% and the N- second for accounting for composition weight 0.01%-20% Acyl ethanolamine is constituted, and both weight ratios are 1:100;
And content accounts for the tetrahydropyrimidine or hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine of composition weight 0.01%-2%;
(2) scalp sebum regulating agent:
The trimethyl glycine salicylate for accounting for composition weight 0.1%-15% and the dimension for accounting for composition weight 0.05%-3% Raw element B12
2. desquamation compositions according to claim 1, wherein N- Palmitylethanolamides content account for composition weight and are 0.005%-0.5%;N-acetyl ethanolamine accounts for composition weight for 0.05%-10%.
3. desquamation compositions according to claim 1, wherein trimethyl glycine salicylate content account for composition weight Percentage ratio is 0.2%-8%;Vitamin B12Content accounts for composition weight percentage ratio for 0.1%-2%.
4. desquamation compositions according to claim 1, skin barrier protective agent are selected from hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine, and its content accounts for group Polymer weight percentage ratio is 0.05%-1%.
5. desquamation compositions according to claim 1, are 0.05%-0.5%'s also containing composition weight percentage ratio is accounted for Allantoin and the glycerol for accounting for composition weight percentage ratio 5%.
6. desquamation compositions according to claim 5, wherein Content of Allantoin account for composition weight percentage ratio for 0.08%- 0.2%.
7. a kind of desquamation compositions, its component and content are:
The N- Palmitylethanolamides that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.0125% are accounted for,
The N-acetyl ethanolamine that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.625% is accounted for,
The hydroxy tetrahydro pyrimidine that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.3% is accounted for,
The trimethyl glycine salicylate that composition weight percentage ratio is 3.4% is accounted for,
Account for the vitamin B that composition weight percentage ratio is 1%12,
The allantoin that composition weight percentage ratio is 0.1% is accounted for,
The glycerol of composition weight percentage ratio 5% is accounted for,
The HANSHENGJIAO of composition weight percentage ratio 0.15% is accounted for,
The disodiumedetate of composition weight percentage ratio 0.05% is accounted for,
PH value is adjusted to 7 by appropriate preservative, essence and pigment, balance of deionized water.
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CN112656709A (en) * 2021-01-06 2021-04-16 华熙生物科技股份有限公司 Skin care compositions and uses thereof

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CN1602835A (en) * 2003-08-06 2005-04-06 花王株式会社 Aerosol cosmetic composition
CN102227208A (en) * 2008-11-07 2011-10-26 科学发展实验室 Drug or dermatological composition containing avocado peptide extract for treating and preventing pruritus

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CN1602835A (en) * 2003-08-06 2005-04-06 花王株式会社 Aerosol cosmetic composition
CN102227208A (en) * 2008-11-07 2011-10-26 科学发展实验室 Drug or dermatological composition containing avocado peptide extract for treating and preventing pruritus

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