CN109267212A - 色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，包括以下步骤：选纱，经纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6tex×2，粗细为40S，纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6 tex×2，粗细为40S；漂染；纺织，织花纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6 tex×2，粗细为40S/2，将多根纬纱线与多根经纱线通过垂直交错织造为面料，同时多根织花纬纱线通过打纬入面料中进行织花；整理；本发明纺织出的面料具有良好的吸湿性、透气性、保暖性和耐热性，同时纹理清晰，视觉上有层次感，达到一种明暗有序的渐变效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，具体而言，涉及一种色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺。
背景技术
家纺产品作为生活的必需品，不仅通过它的柔软特性给人们带来生理上的舒适感，还能通过其款式造型与蕴藏的文化内涵来影响人们的情感与生理活动，随着人们消费水平的提高、消费意识观念的变迁，时尚的家纺消费观念已经植入到消费者的家纺产品消费理念之中，个性化和时尚化的产品越来越受欢迎，种种跨界流行文化和愈发成熟的新元素已成功加入家纺产品的研发设计中。
纱线是纺织品的设计与生产环节中重要元素，更是面料触觉肌理、纹样、款式造型以及颜色的基本载体。因此，采用四种颜色的纬纱分段选纬交织，通过纬密的变化，达到一种明暗有序的渐变效果纺织品发展的重要创新因素。
发明内容
本发明旨在一定程度上解决上述技术问题。
有鉴于此，本发明提供了一种色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，该面料具有良好的吸湿性、透气性、保暖性和耐热性，同时纹理清晰，视觉上有层次感，达到一种明暗有序的渐变效果。
为了解决上述技术问题，本发明提供了一种色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，包括以下步骤：
S1：选纱，经纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6tex×2，粗细为40S；纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6 tex×2，粗细为40S；织花纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6 tex×2，粗细为40S/2；
S2：漂染，经纱线、纬纱线和织花纬纱线均依次进行松筒、装笼、入缸、喷碱、染色、整经、浆纱、退浆、水洗、皂洗、热水洗、冷水洗、脱水、烘干和紧筒；
S3：纺织，将多根纬纱线与多根经纱线通过垂直交错织造为面料，同时多根织花纬纱线通过打纬入面料中进行织花；
S4：整理，将面料依次通过摊布缝头、剪花、堆置、水洗、拉幅、预缩和打卷。
进一步，所述步骤S2喷碱工序中，喷碱所用的碱液为氢氧化钠溶液，碱液的浓度为1.5g/L。
进一步，所述步骤S2冷水洗与脱水的工序之间，将经纱线、纬纱线和织花纬纱线放入固色剂中浸泡20 min。
进一步，所述步骤S2染色工序中，染色所用的染料为乙烯砜和一氯均三嗪双活性基，染色的时间为30min～40min。
进一步，所述步骤S2浆纱工序中，浆纱所用的浆料含有50kg的DM-891、12.5kg的PVA、2kg的乳化油、0.5kg的NaOH和0.2kg的2-萘酚，浆料的温度控制为97℃～99℃。
进一步，所述步骤S3纺织过程中，面料中经纱线的密度控制为516.8根/10厘米。
进一步，所述步骤S3纺织过程中，面料中纬纱线的密度控制为334.6根/10厘米。
进一步，所述步骤S3纺织过程中，纬纱线与织花纬纱线按1:1或2:1的比例进行打纬。
进一步，所述步骤S3纺织过程中，采用剑杆提花织机进行织造，其门幅调整为254cm，车速调整为260转/分钟。
本发明的技术效果在于：（1）经纱线、纬纱线和织花纬纱线均选用纺棉纱，纺棉纱具有良好的吸湿性、透气性、保暖性和耐热性，同时对碱液有良好的抵抗能力。
(2) 将多根纬纱线与多根经纱线通过垂直交错织造为面料，同时多根织花纬纱线通过打纬入面料中进行织花，使面料纹理清晰，视觉上有层次感，达到一种明暗有序的渐变效果。
附图说明
图1是根据本发明的一种色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺的流程示意图；
图2是根据本发明的漂染工序的流程示意图；
图3是根据本发明的整理工序的流程示意图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明，以使本领域的技术人员可以更好的理解本发明并能予以实施，但所举实施例不作为对本发明的限定。
如图1、图2和图3所示，一种色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，包括以下步骤：
S1：选纱，经纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6tex×2，粗细为40S；纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6 tex×2，粗细为40S；织花纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6 tex×2，粗细为40S/2；
S2：漂染，经纱线、纬纱线和织花纬纱线均依次进行S21松筒、S22装笼、S23入缸、S24喷碱、S25染色、S26整经、S27浆纱、S28退浆、S29水洗、S210皂洗、S211热水洗、S212冷水洗、S213脱水、S214烘干和S215紧筒；
S3：纺织，将多根纬纱线与多根经纱线通过垂直交错织造为面料，同时多根织花纬纱线通过打纬入面料中进行织花；
S4：整理，将面料依次通过S41摊布缝头、S42剪花、S43堆置、S43水洗、S45拉幅、S46预缩和S47打卷。
根据本发明的具体实施例，选纱，经纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6tex×2，粗细为40S；纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6 tex×2，粗细为40S；织花纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6 tex×2，粗细为40S/2。
紧密纺棉纱是天然纤维，其主要成分是纤维素，还有少量的蜡状物质和含氮物与果胶质。
紧密纺棉纱具有良好的吸湿性和透气性，在正常的情况下，纤维可向周围的大气中吸收水分，它接触人的皮肤，使人感到柔软而不僵硬，当棉布湿度增大时，周围温度较高，纤维中含的水分量会全部蒸发散去，使织物保持水平衡状态、手感丰满、与肌肤接触无任何刺激感；
紧密纺棉纱具有良好的保暖性，紧密纺棉纱是热和电的不良导体，热传导系数极低，又因紧密纺棉纱本身具有多孔性，弹性高优点，纤维之间能积存大量空气，空气又是热和电的不良导体，所以，纯紧密纺棉纱纺织品具有良好的保湿性，使用纯棉制品时感觉到温暖；
紧密纺棉纱具有良好的耐热性，在摄氏110℃以下时，只会引起织物上水分蒸发，不会损伤纤维，所以纯棉织物在常温下使用、洗涤或者印染等对织品都无影响，由此对提高了纯棉织品耐洗耐穿服用性能。
紧密纺棉纱对碱有良好的抵抗能力，紧密纺棉纱在碱溶液中，纤维不发生破坏现象，有利于对织物污染的洗涤，消毒除杂质，同时也可以对纯棉纺织品进行染色、印花及各种工艺加工，以产生更多棉织新品种。
根据本发明的具体实施例，纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，粗细为40S，织花纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，粗细为40S/2，将多根纬纱线与多根经纱线通过垂直交错织造为面料，同时多根织花纬纱线通过打纬入面料中进行织花，织花纬纱线比纬纱线粗，突出了花型效果，使面料纹理清晰，视觉上有层次感，达到一种明暗有序的渐变效果。
根据本发明的具体实施例，S24喷碱工序中，喷碱所用的碱液为氢氧化钠溶液，碱液的浓度为1.5g/L，纱线喷碱后，碱液使纱线中的长绒棉纤维分子键空隙膨化和细胞膨胀，棉纤维的分子重新排列、结晶度和取向度提高，从而棉织物表面变的光滑圆整、增加了纤维光泽，提高棉织物的光亮。
根据本发明的具体实施例，S212冷水洗与S213脱水的工序之间，将经纱线、纬纱线和织花纬纱线放入固色剂中浸泡20 min，提高面料光泽和色牢度。
根据本发明的具体实施例，S25染色工序中，染色所用的染料为乙烯砜和一氯均三嗪双活性基，染色的时间为30min～40min，乙烯砜和一氯均三嗪双活性基染料色谱齐全、反应性适中、固色率高、易洗涤性和匀染性好，适宜于筒子纱染色，纯棉筒子纱活性染料染色加料过快极易引起色花，为了降低染后处理难度，染色时不宜保温太长时间，优选30 min～40min。
根据本发明的具体实施例，S27浆纱工序中，浆纱所用的浆料包括50kg的DM-891、12.5kg的PVA、2kg的乳化油、0.5kg的NaOH和0.2kg的2-萘酚，浆料的温度控制为97℃～99℃，提高纱线的稳定性，增加纱线的摩擦系数，方便纱线的纺织，使S3纺织过程顺利进行。
浆液含固量为12%，浆液粘度9秒。降低浆槽温度，防止纱线落色或沾色。浆纱车45m/min～50m/min，浆槽温度98℃，浆槽粘度10s～12s，烘房湿区温度110℃～120℃，干区温度100℃～110℃，退绕张力350N，卷绕1500N，经轴侧压力6 KN～12KN，烘房压力6 KN～15KN，回潮6%～8%，含固率11%～12%，上浆率13.5%。
根据本发明的具体实施例，S3纺织过程中，面料中经纱线的密度控制为516.8根/10厘米，面料中纬纱线的密度控制为334.6根/10厘米。
经纱线采用瑞士贝宁格高速分批整经机进行整经，整经速度为450 m/min，整经张力20 cN，边纱张力设置为25cN，筒子架前经纱张力控制在9.0cN～11cN，卷绕密度为0.53g/cm 3。
需要说明的是， 整经工序必须做好如下几点：①做好设备的保养工作，做到设备完好；②做好清洁工作，保证纱线通道光滑干净无毛刺，纱线退绕时无受阻，张力均匀；③挡车工严格按操作规程操作；④根据经纱原料的特性，整经长度不宜太长，24小时内必须倒成织轴，以减少条与条之间的压条现象。
根据本发明的具体实施例，S3纺织过程中，纬纱线与织花纬纱线按1:1或2:1的比例进行打纬。
纬向选用粗细为40S的纬纱线和粗细为40S/2的织花纬纱线，采用分段选纬按1:1或者2:1的比例进行打纬，使剪花部位的纬密应大于底面料的纬密，采用停撬装置实现凸起花纹的作用，使视觉上有层次感。
需要说明的是，停撬处选择合适的纬密和花型图案尽量避免横档，织物中部分浮长过长，容易勾丝，将浮长剪掉。
根据本发明的具体实施例，S3纺织过程中，采用剑杆提花织机进行织造，其门幅调整为254cm，车速调整为260转/分钟，将多根纬纱线与多根经纱线通过垂直交错织造为面料，同时多根织花纬纱线通过打纬入面料中进行织花，使面料纹理清晰、立体感强，优化了剑杆提花织机的工艺参数。
同时，在环锭细纱机牵引装置前增加了一个纤维凝聚区，消除了前罗拉至加捻点之间的纺纱加捻三角区，纤维须条从前罗拉钳口输出后，先经过异形吸风管外套网眼皮圈，须条在网眼皮圈上运动，由于气流的收缩和聚合作用，通过异形管的吸风槽使须条集聚、转动，逐步从扁平带状转为圆柱体，纤维的端头均捻入纱线内，因此成纱非常紧密，纱线外观光洁、毛羽少。由于加捻前单纤维充分伸直、平行，没有毛羽伸出纱条主体，所以成纱毛羽很少，单纤维排列紧密，相互间抱合力大，这也有助于提高纱线的强力，改善条干不匀。同时为下道工序提供了非常好的条件，减轻了上浆、烧毛等工序的压力。
需要说明的是，下机布要及时检验，发现疵点修尽织疵，另外，整修不用梳子刮布，以防止布面起毛。
以上所述实施例仅是为充分说明本发明而所举的较佳的实施例，本发明的保护范围不限于此。本技术领域的技术人员在本发明基础上所作的等同替代或变换，均在本发明的保护范围之内。本发明的保护范围以权利要求书为准。
Claims (9)
1.一种色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
S1：选纱，经纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6tex×2，粗细为40S；纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6tex×2，粗细为40S；织花纬纱线选取紧密纺棉纱，密度为14.6tex×2，粗细为40S/2；
S2：漂染，经纱线、纬纱线和织花纬纱线均依次进行松筒、装笼、入缸、喷碱、染色、整经、浆纱、退浆、水洗、皂洗、热水洗、冷水洗、脱水、烘干和紧筒；
S3：纺织，将多根纬纱线与多根经纱线通过垂直交错织造为面料，同时多根织花纬纱线通过打纬入面料中进行织花；
S4：整理，将面料依次通过摊布缝头、剪花、堆置、水洗、拉幅、预缩和打卷。
2.根据权利要求1所述的色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，所述步骤S2喷碱工序中，喷碱所用的碱液为氢氧化钠溶液，碱液的浓度为1.5g/L。
3.根据权利要求1所述的色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，所述步骤S2冷水洗与脱水的工序之间，将经纱线、纬纱线和织花纬纱线放入固色剂中浸泡20 min。
4.根据权利要求1所述的高支高密色织双丝光渐变家纺面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，所述步骤S2染色工序中，染色所用的染料为乙烯砜和一氯均三嗪双活性基，染色的时间为30min～40min。
5.根据权利要求1所述的高支高密色织双丝光渐变家纺面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，所述步骤S2浆纱工序中，浆纱所用的浆料含有50kg的DM-891、12.5kg的PVA、2kg的乳化油、0.5kg的NaOH和0.2kg的2-萘酚，浆料的温度控制为97℃～99℃。
6.根据权利要求1所述的色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，所述步骤S3纺织过程中，面料中经纱线的密度控制为516.8根/10厘米。
7.根据权利要求1所述的色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，所述步骤S3纺织过程中，面料中纬纱线的密度控制为334.6根/10厘米。
8.根据权利要求1所述的色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，所述步骤S3纺织过程中，纬纱线与织花纬纱线按1:1或2:1的比例进行打纬。
9.根据权利要求1所述的色织大提花剪花面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，所述步骤S3纺织过程中，采用剑杆提花织机进行织造，其门幅调整为254cm，车速调整为260转/分钟。
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