CN109223666B

CN109223666B - Plant extract composition and application thereof in skin care products

Info

Publication number: CN109223666B
Application number: CN201811472583.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 李宗优; 范承功
Original assignee: Schlegel Xinyan Hangzhou Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Schlegel new research (Hangzhou) Medical Technology Co.,Ltd.
Priority date: 2018-12-04
Filing date: 2018-12-04
Publication date: 2021-05-25
Anticipated expiration: 2038-12-04
Also published as: CN109223666A

Abstract

The invention discloses a plant extract with a penetration-promoting effect, which is prepared from an apocynum venetum extract and a verbena extract in a mass ratio of 1: 3-1: 10. The plant extract is obtained by combining the apocynum venetum extract and the verbena extract which are obtained by a specific extraction method according to a specific mass ratio. Through experimental research, the apocynum venetum extract and the verbena extract are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1: 3-1: 10 has excellent synergistic effect in promoting the transdermal absorption of collagen, Vc derivatives and trehalose, and particularly when the mass ratio of the apocynum venetum extract to the verbena extract is 1: 5 has an unexpectedly optimal penetration enhancing effect. The plant extract can be applied to preparing skin care products with permeation-promoting effect on collagen, Vc derivatives and trehalose.

Description

Plant extract composition and application thereof in skin care products

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of daily cosmetics, in particular to a plant extract with a permeation-promoting effect and application thereof in preparing a skin care product with a permeation-promoting effect on collagen, a Vc derivative and trehalose.

Background

The natural plants have long application history in the aspect of beauty and skin care, appear already in the period of Qin and Han dynasties, and are extremely popular in the Tang dynasty. In recent years, with the development of plant extraction technology, people are becoming interested in plant cosmetics and natural beauty treatment methods. The substances contained in the plants, such as flavone, organic acid, oil, alkaloid, essential oil, mucilage, protein, amino acid, vitamins, minerals, trace elements, phytohormone and the like, can generate different effects and influences on human skin. For example, plant flavonoids as skin care factors have obvious effects on resisting skin peroxidation, delaying aging, whitening, resisting radiation, preventing sunburn, resisting inflammation, resisting allergy and inhibiting bacteria, polysaccharides have moisturizing effect, amino acids can nourish skin and reduce wrinkles, and proteins are also beneficial to enhancing skin elasticity. With the progress of science and technology, a plurality of active ingredients can be extracted and separated, which creates conditions for the application of the plants in the field of natural daily chemicals.

In recent years, the development target of the cosmetic industry is gradually shifted to natural plants due to the large toxic and side effects of the synthetic compounds, and the development of the penetration enhancer is also the same. Many cosmetic companies seek penetration enhancers from natural herbal plants with a tremendous investment. China, as a country of origin of transdermal drugs, has huge plant resources with volatile components, and has huge development potential in this respect. The prior art now discloses a number of technical solutions for plant extracts. For example, chinese patent application publication No. CN 101966139a discloses an apocynum venetum extract, its preparation method and its application in cosmetics, wherein the extract is prepared by the following steps: removing impurities from folium Apocyni Veneti, and cleaning; adopting continuous countercurrent extraction, wherein the weight ratio of the dogbane leaves to water is 1: 8-1: 20 based on the dry weight of the dogbane leaves, the extraction temperature is 45-70 ℃, the extraction time is 30-90 min, and filtering to obtain filtrate; adding chitosan flocculant into the filtrate, standing, centrifuging, and removing precipitate to obtain extract clear liquid; vacuum concentrating, passing the concentrated solution through macroporous resin, washing with distilled water until colorless, eluting with 20-85% ethanol, detecting the eluate, collecting active ingredients, and spray drying to obtain herba Apocyni Veneti extract with total flavone content greater than 30%. The herba Apocyni Veneti extract can be used for developing functional cosmetics with effects of resisting skin peroxidation, delaying aging, whitening skin, resisting radiation, preventing sunburn, resisting inflammation, resisting allergy, inhibiting bacteria, moistening, and keeping moisture. However, researches show that the apocynum venetum extract obtained by the extraction method does not have obvious penetration-promoting effect on collagen, Vc derivatives and trehalose.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a composition of natural plant extracts, which achieves the effect of synergistically promoting penetration of collagen, Vc derivatives and trehalose by combining different plant extracts and selecting a specific dosage ratio. The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

a plant extract with a penetration promoting effect is prepared from an apocynum venetum extract and a verbena extract according to a mass ratio of 1: 3-1: 10.

Preferably, the plant extract with the penetration-promoting effect is prepared from apocynum venetum extract and verbena extract according to the mass ratio of 1: 5.

Preferably, the apocynum venetum extract is prepared by the following method:

(1) adopting continuous countercurrent extraction, wherein the weight ratio of the dogbane leaves to water is 1: 8-1: 20 based on the dry weight of the dogbane leaves, the extraction temperature is 45-70 ℃, the extraction time is 30-90 min, and filtering to obtain filtrate;

(2) adding a chitosan flocculant into the filtrate, standing for 3-8 hours, centrifuging, and removing precipitates to obtain an extract clear solution;

(3) vacuum concentrating, wherein the concentration ratio is 3: 1-8: 1(v/v), feeding the concentrated solution into D101 type macroporous resin, washing the concentrated solution with distilled water until the concentrated solution is colorless, eluting the concentrated solution with 20-85% ethanol, and spray-drying the eluent to obtain the compound.

Preferably, the dosage of the flocculant chitosan in the step (2) is 0.05-0.1% of the weight of the filtrate.

Preferably, step (3) is eluted with 50% ethanol.

Preferably, the verbena extract is prepared by the following method:

(3) vacuum concentrating at a concentration ratio of 3: 1-8: 1(v/v), introducing the concentrated solution into AB-8 type macroporous resin, washing with distilled water until colorless, eluting with 70-90% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Preferably, the dosage of the flocculant chitosan in the step (2) is 0.1-0.2% of the weight of the filtrate.

Preferably, step (3) is eluted with 80% ethanol.

The invention also provides application of the plant extract with the penetration-promoting effect in preparing skin care products with the penetration-promoting effect on collagen, Vc derivatives and trehalose.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that: the plant extract is obtained by combining the apocynum venetum extract and the verbena extract which are obtained by a specific extraction method according to a specific mass ratio. According to experimental research, the apocynum venetum extract and the verbena extract are mixed according to the mass ratio of 1: 3-1: 10 has excellent synergistic effect in promoting the transdermal absorption of collagen, Vc derivatives and trehalose, and particularly when the mass ratio of the apocynum venetum extract to the verbena extract is 1: 5 has an unexpectedly optimal penetration enhancing effect. Therefore, the plant extract can be applied to preparing skin care products with the transdermal effect on collagen, Vc derivatives and trehalose.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be further specifically described with reference to the following examples.

According to the method specified in GB/T27818 plus 2011 'chemical skin absorption in vitro test method', the penetration promoting effect of different plant extracts of 1% (wt) on collagen, Vc derivatives and trehalose is detected through a Franz diffusion cell transdermal absorption experiment.

Preparing a solution: 1% (wt) aqueous solution of L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside; 1% (wt) of an aqueous collagen solution; 1% (wt) trehalose aqueous solution;

preparing solution A (1m 11% (wt) L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside aqueous solution +100m 11% plant extract aqueous solution);

solution B (1m 11% (wt) aqueous L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside solution +100m 10.9% physiological saline) was prepared as a blank.

Preparing solution C (1m 11% collagen solution +100m 11% plant extract water solution);

solution D (1m1 l collagen solution +100m 10.9% physiological saline) was prepared as a blank.

Preparing a solution E (1m 11% trehalose solution +100m 11% plant extract aqueous solution);

solution F (1m1 l trehalose solution +100m 10.9% physiological saline) was prepared as a blank.

Preparation of guinea pig abdominal skin: the guinea pig is killed by taking off the cervical vertebra, the abdominal hair is quickly shaved off, the abdominal skin is peeled off, subcutaneous fat and blood vessels are removed, the guinea pig is repeatedly washed with distilled water until the guinea pig is clean, and then washed with normal saline for several times, and the guinea pig is placed in a refrigerator for storage.

Fixing guinea pig abdominal skin between the administration chamber and the receiving chamber of the diffusion cell by using Franz test diffusion device, wherein the effective contact area of the two cells is 4.52cm²The receiving chamber has a volume of 13 ml. The dermis was contacted with the receptor fluid on one side, and was carefully sealed without air bubbles. The receiving liquid is physiological saline. Solutions A, B, C, D, E, F were each placed in a release chamber and sealed at the top to avoid loss, and 3 sets were run in parallel. The water bath temperature is 37.5 +/-0.5 ℃, and when the temperature of the water bath tank reaches the preset test temperature, the Franz glass diffusion cell is placed into a corresponding slot hole in the upper part of the water tank, so that the test can be carried out. The test start time was 0, and 5m1 was sampled at a set time of 6 h. Detecting the Vc derivative extracting solution in the sample solution by using an ultraviolet spectrophotometer to obtain a light absorption value at 245.5nm, and calculating the transdermal release cumulant of the Vc derivative; measuring the content of the collagen according to a conventional method, and calculating the transdermal accumulated amount of the collagen; and measuring the content of trehalose according to a conventional method, and calculating the transdermal accumulated amount of trehalose. And finally, calculating the transdermal cumulative permeation quantity of the plant extract to the Vc derivative, the collagen and the trehalose to be respectively the average times of the corresponding blank groups.

Firstly, investigating the influence of different types of macroporous resin and different concentrations of ethanol elution on the penetration promoting effect of the apocynum venetum extract

Example 1: the apocynum venetum extract is prepared by the following steps:

(1) adopting continuous countercurrent extraction, wherein the weight ratio of folium Apocyni Veneti to water is 1: 20, the extraction temperature is 70 deg.C, the extraction time is 90min, and filtering to obtain filtrate;

(2) adding chitosan flocculant into the filtrate, wherein the dosage of chitosan is 0.05% of the weight of the filtrate, standing for 8h, centrifuging, and removing precipitate to obtain extract clear liquid;

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 3: 1(v/v), introducing into D101 macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 85% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Example 2: the apocynum venetum extract is prepared by the following steps:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 3: 1(v/v), introducing into DM301 macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 85% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Example 3: the apocynum venetum extract is prepared by the following steps:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 3: 1(v/v), introducing into AB-8 type macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 85% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Example 4: the apocynum venetum extract is prepared by the following steps:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 3: 1(v/v), introducing into D101 macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 50% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Example 5: the apocynum venetum extract is prepared by the following steps:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 3: 1(v/v), introducing into D101 macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 20% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

The cumulative amounts of penetration of the apocynum venetum extract prepared in examples 1 to 5 through the Franz diffusion cell through the skin permeation test at a concentration of 1% by mass to Vc derivatives, collagen and trehalose are the multiples of the blank group, respectively, as shown in table 1 below:

TABLE 1

Extract of plant	VcPermeability of the derivative	Osmotic fold of collagen	Osmotic fold of trehalose
				Example 1	1.25	1.29	1.21
Example 2	1.06	1.08	1.04
				Example 3	1.08	1.12	1.05
Example 4	1.46	1.51	1.42
				Example 5	1.12	1.15	1.11

As can be seen from the test results in Table 1, the extract obtained by eluting D101 type macroporous resin on the concentrated solution with 50% ethanol has better penetration promoting effect.

Secondly, investigating the influence of different types of macroporous resin and different concentrations of ethanol elution on the penetration promoting effect of the verbena extract

Example 6: the verbena extract is prepared by the following method:

(1) adopting continuous countercurrent extraction, wherein the weight ratio of folium Apocyni Veneti to water is 1: 20, the extraction temperature is 60 deg.C, the extraction time is 60min, and filtering to obtain filtrate;

(2) adding chitosan flocculant into the filtrate, standing for 6h, centrifuging, and removing precipitate to obtain extract clear liquid;

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 5: 1(v/v), introducing into AB-8 type macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 70% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Example 7: the verbena extract is prepared by the following method:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 5: 1(v/v), introducing into D101 macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 70% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Example 8: the verbena extract is prepared by the following method:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 5: 1(v/v), introducing into DM301 macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 70% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Example 9: the verbena extract is prepared by the following method:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 5: 1(v/v), introducing into AB-8 type macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 80% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

Example 10: the verbena extract is prepared by the following method:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 5: 1(v/v), introducing into AB-8 type macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 90% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate.

The cumulative transdermal permeation amounts of the verbena extract prepared in examples 6-10 at a mass concentration of 1% to the Vc derivative, collagen, and trehalose are the multiples of the blank group at the Franz diffusion cell transdermal absorption test, respectively, as shown in table 2 below:

TABLE 2

Extract of plant	Permeability of Vc derivatives	Osmotic fold of collagen	Osmotic fold of trehalose
				Example 6	1.22	1.19	1.17
Example 7	1.09	1.07	1.05
				Example 8	1.08	1.05	1.04
Example 9	1.57	1.53	1.49
				Example 10	1.32	1.35	1.34

As can be seen from the test results in Table 2, the extract obtained by eluting AB-8 type macroporous resin on the concentrated solution with 80% ethanol has better penetration promoting effect.

Thirdly, investigating the influence of the composition of the apocynum venetum extract and the verbena extract with different mass ratios on the penetration promoting effect

Example 11: a plant extract is prepared from the apocynum venetum extract of example 4 and the verbena extract of example 9 according to a mass ratio of 1: 1.

Example 12: a plant extract is prepared from the apocynum venetum extract of example 4 and the verbena extract of example 9 according to a mass ratio of 1: 3, and (3).

Example 13: a plant extract is prepared from the apocynum venetum extract of example 4 and the verbena extract of example 9 according to a mass ratio of 1: 5.

Example 14: a plant extract is prepared from the apocynum venetum extract of example 4 and the verbena extract of example 9 according to a mass ratio of 1: 10.

Example 15: a plant extract is prepared from the apocynum venetum extract of example 4 and the verbena extract of example 9 according to a mass ratio of 1: 15.

The cumulative amounts of penetration into the skin at a concentration of 1% by mass of the Vc derivative, collagen and trehalose from the extract compositions of examples 11-15 by the Franz diffusion cell transdermal absorption test are each expressed in the following table 3 as a multiple of the blank group:

TABLE 3

Extract of plant	Permeability of Vc derivatives	Osmotic fold of collagen	Osmotic fold of trehalose
				Example 11	1.69	1.75	1.72
Example 12	2.35	2.59	2.48
				Example 13	4.75	4.92	4.85
Example 14	2.21	2.28	2.15
				Example 15	1.89	1.96	1.82

As can be seen from the test results in table 3, the ratio of the apocynum venetum extract of example 4 to the verbena extract of example 9 was 1: 5 has an optimal penetration-promoting effect.

The above-mentioned embodiments are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention should not be limited thereby, and those skilled in the art should not make any insubstantial changes and substitutions based on the present invention.

Claims

1. A plant extract with a penetration-promoting effect is characterized by comprising an apocynum venetum extract and a verbena extract according to a mass ratio of 1: 5, the apocynum venetum extract is prepared by the following method:

(3) vacuum concentrating at concentration ratio of 3: 1(v/v), introducing into D101 type macroporous resin, washing with distilled water to colorless, eluting with 50% ethanol, and spray drying the eluate;

the verbena extract is prepared by the following method: