CN109094152A - 一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN109094152A
CN109094152A CN201810769205.4A CN201810769205A CN109094152A CN 109094152 A CN109094152 A CN 109094152A CN 201810769205 A CN201810769205 A CN 201810769205A CN 109094152 A CN109094152 A CN 109094152A
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speed
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王飞龙
潘明
沈美华
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TONGXIANG LONGXIANG TEXTILE CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，包括如下步骤：S1、制备纬向梭向麂皮绒面料为表面层；S2、制备经编绒布为中间层；S3、复合：采用油胶复合工艺将中间层的压花一侧与表面层光面一侧进行复合；S4、水洗烘干：浆经过油胶复合工艺所制备的复合面料经过水洗和烘干工艺；S5、步骤S4处理后的复合面料中中间层与一层针刺无纺面料复合。本发明所涉及的热风揉纹仿牛皮面料生产工艺，通过压花工艺在中间层上压出仿真皮纹路，压花纹路一侧与表面层光面一侧复合，再通过水洗干烘，从而使底布的压花花型稳约地呈现在面料的表面，使得面料花型自然，手感柔软。再复合一层针刺无纺面料，增加了面料的厚度，使手感更接近真皮的质感。

Description

一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织面料生产技术领域，尤其是一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺。
背景技术
现有的仿天然皮革类的面料存在花型与纹路不够清晰，面料的手感和质感与天然皮革存在较大的差异，而且透气性不佳。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，使得仿天然皮革面料拥有天然真皮的花型、手感和质感，且具有良好的透气性。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明的目的是这样实现的：
本发明所涉及的一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，包括如下步骤：
S1、表面层制备：采用喷水织机织造纬向梭织麂皮面料，并经过碱减量、烘干、磨毛、染色、半成品定型、梳毛、成品定型、印花、烫金工艺制成纬向梭向麂皮绒面料；
S2、中间层制备：采用经编机纺织，并经过拉毛、染色、烘干定型、拉毛、成品定型、压花工艺制成经编绒布；
S3、复合：采用油胶复合工艺将中间层的压花一侧与表面层光面一侧进行复合；
S4、水洗烘干：浆经过油胶复合工艺所制备的复合面料经过水洗和烘干工艺；
S5、步骤S4处理后的复合面料中中间层与一层针刺无纺面料复合，即得到仿热风揉纹牛皮面料。
作为上述方案的进一步说明，步骤S1表面层的制备，按照如下步骤：
S1.1、织造：采用喷水织机，经纱使用75D/72F 涤纶DTY，纬纱使用225D/36*24 海岛丝，纬密为26根/cm，总经根数为10800根，所织造的坯布的克重为130克每平方米，门幅为160cm；
S1.2、碱减量：处理温度为100-120℃，时间为2-3小时，碱减量率控制在20-35%；
S1.3、烘干：烘干温度为160℃，速度为35-40米每分钟；
S1.4、磨毛：磨毛设备第一辊筒和第二辊筒表面为180目金刚砂，第三辊筒和第四辊筒表面为200目金刚砂，磨毛速度为30米每分钟；
S1.5、染色：染色温度为125-130℃、压力为3-4kg，染色为4小时；
S1.6、半成品定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟；
S1.7、梳毛：采用毛长为2cm的软毛刷，梳毛速度为30米每分钟；
S1.8、成品定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟，所制备的纬向梭织麂皮绒面料的克重为120克每平方米，门幅为155cm；
S1.9、印花：采用转移印花机，在步骤S1.8所制备的纬向梭织麂皮绒面料采用高色牢度分散油墨在绒面一侧进行印花处理，转移印花机的温度为210℃，印花速度为40米每分钟；
S1.10、烫金：选择花型，利用花型深度为0.15MM的凹版印刷棍，将膜量为50的PU树脂转移到厚度为0.22MM的BOPP离型膜上，再通过温度为110度的热棍将膜与布贴合，使膜上的PU树脂转移到布上，型成仿皮效果。
作为上述方案的进一步说明，步骤S2制备中间层包括如下步骤：
S2.1、编织：采用KARL-MAYER型号为186英寸32针的高速经编机，第一把梳栉使用50D/24F 涤纶FDY、第二把梳栉使用75D/72F 涤纶复合网络丝作为原料，总头纹数为680根*8盘头，织造密度为23密/cm，白坯克重为150克每平方米，门幅为160cm；
S2.2、拉毛：采用三台拉毛机边机对步骤S2.1所纺织的白坯布进行拉毛处理，拉毛速度为25米每分钟；
S2.3、染色：使用氢氧化钠溶液对拉毛后的经编白坯布进行碱减量处理，温度为100-120℃，处理时间为2.5小时；经过碱减量处理的坯布在125-130℃、压力为3-4kg的压力条件下进行染色，染色时间为4小时；
S2.4、烘干定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟；
S2.5、拉毛：采用单台拉毛机，拉毛速度为30米每分钟；
S2.6、成品定型：定型温度165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟；
S2.7、压花：通过扫描设计好的花型，再通过激光雕刻型成压花棍，利用压力大于30T的四棍压花机，使经编绒布表面型成压花的纹路；压花机温度为180-200℃，速度30米/分钟。
作为上述方案的进一步说明，步骤S3中油胶复合工艺中所采用的胶水为膜量为45的PU树脂复合胶。
作为上述方案的进一步说明，步骤S4水洗烘干中水洗的时间为15分钟，烘干的温度为80-90℃，烘干时间为30-40分钟。
作为上述方案的进一步说明，所使用的针刺无纺面料克重为100克，原料为涤纶。
本发明的有益效果是：本发明所涉及的热风揉纹仿牛皮面料生产工艺，通过压花工艺在中间层上压出仿真皮纹路，压花纹路一侧与表面层光面一侧复合，再通过水洗干烘，从而使底布的压花花型稳约地呈现在面料的表面，使得面料花型自然，手感柔软。再复合一层针刺无纺面料，增加了面料的厚度，使手感更接近真皮的质感。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明进一步说明。
实施例一
本实施例所涉及的一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，包括如下步骤：
S1、表面层制备：采用喷水织机织造纬向梭织麂皮面料，并经过碱减量、烘干、磨毛、染色、半成品定型、梳毛、成品定型、印花、烫金工艺制成纬向梭向麂皮绒面料。
S2、中间层制备：采用经编机纺织，并经过拉毛、染色、烘干定型、拉毛、成品定型、压花工艺制成经编绒布。
S3、复合：采用油胶复合工艺将中间层的压花一侧与表面层光面一侧进行复合。油胶复合工艺中所采用的胶水为膜量为45的PU树脂复合胶。油胶复合的温度为100℃，复合的速度为35米每分钟。
S4、水洗烘干：浆经过油胶复合工艺所制备的复合面料经过水洗和烘干工艺。水洗烘干中水洗的时间为15分钟，烘干温度为80-90℃，烘干时间为30-40分钟，优选的，烘干温度为85℃，烘干时间为35min。
S5、步骤S4处理后的复合面料中中间层与一层针刺无纺面料复合，即得到仿热风揉纹牛皮面料。所使用的针刺无纺面料克重为100克，原料为涤纶。复合针刺无纺面料是增加面料的厚度，使手感更加接近真皮的质感。本步骤的复合是采用PU树脂将中间层与针刺无纺面料相复合。
步骤S1表面层的制备，按照如下步骤：
S1.1、织造：采用喷水织机，经纱使用75D/72F 涤纶DTY，纬纱使用225D/36*24 海岛丝，纬密为26根/cm，总经根数为10800根，所织造的坯布的克重为130克每平方米，门幅为160cm。
S1.2、碱减量：处理温度为100-120℃，时间为2-3小时，碱减量率控制在20-35%。将步骤S1.1所织造的坯布，经过碱减量将海岛丝中的“海”部分处理掉，将海岛丝中“岛”的部分留下，形成超细纤维。
S1.3、烘干：烘干温度为160℃，速度为35-40米每分钟。优选的，烘干速度为40米每分钟。
S1.4、磨毛：磨毛设备第一辊筒和第二辊筒表面为180目金刚砂，第三辊筒和第四辊筒表面为200目金刚砂，磨毛速度为30米每分钟。磨毛的目的是将经过碱减量处理所剩下的超细纤维，表面形成绒状。
S1.5、染色：染色温度为125-130℃、压力为3-4kg，染色为4小时。优选的，染色温度罚128℃，压力为3kg。
S1.6、半成品定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟。优选的，定型速度为38米每分钟。
S1.7、梳毛：采用毛长为2cm的软毛刷，梳毛速度为30米每分钟。
S1.8、成品定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟，所制备的纬向梭织麂皮绒面料的克重为120克每平方米，门幅为155cm。
S1.9、印花：采用转移印花机，在步骤S1.8所制备的纬向梭织麂皮绒面料采用高色牢度分散油墨在绒面一侧进行印花处理，转移印花机的温度为210℃，印花速度为40米每分钟。
S1.10、烫金：选择花型，利用花型深度为0.15MM的凹版印刷棍，将膜量为50的PU树脂转移到厚度为0.22MM的BOPP离型膜上，再通过温度为110度的热棍将膜与布贴合，使膜上的PU树脂转移到布上，型成仿皮效果。
步骤S2制备中间层包括如下步骤：
S2.1、编织：采用KARL-MAYER型号为186英寸32针的高速经编机，第一把梳栉使用50D/24F 涤纶FDY、第二把梳栉使用75D/72F 涤纶复合网络丝作为原料，总头纹数为680根*8盘头，织造密度为23密/cm，白坯克重为150克每平方米，门幅为160cm。
S2.2、拉毛：采用三台拉毛机边机对步骤S2.1所纺织的白坯布进行拉毛处理，拉毛速度为25米每分钟。
S2.3、染色：使用氢氧化钠溶液对拉毛后的经编白坯布进行碱减量处理，温度为100-120℃，处理时间为2.5小时。优选的，碱减量处理的温度为110℃。
经过碱减量处理的坯布在125-130℃、压力为3-4kg的压力条件下进行染色，染色时间为4小时。优选的，染色温度为130℃，压力为3.5kg.
S2.4、烘干定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟。优选的，定型速度为38米每分钟。
S2.5、拉毛：采用单台拉毛机，拉毛速度为30米每分钟。
S2.6、成品定型：定型温度165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟。优选的定型速度为38米每分钟，与烘干时的速度相同。成品克重为150克每平方米，门幅为155cm。
S2.7、压花：利用直条皱大象皮的天然纹路，通过扫描获得花型，再通过激光雕刻型成压花棍，利用压力大于30T的四棍压花机，使单面绒表面型成压花的纹路；压花机温度为180-200℃，速度30米/分钟。
本发明将经编绒布表面形成仿真皮纹路的一侧与纬向梭织麂皮绒面料的光面一侧进行复合，再通过水洗干烘，从而使经编绒布的压花花型稳约地呈现在仿面料的表面，使得面料花型自然，手感柔软。
在经编绒布的基础上再加复一层100克/平方米的针刺无纺面料，可以增加面料的厚度，使手感更加接近真皮的质感。
实施例二
本实施例所涉及的仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，与实施例一的区别在于，在经编绒布通过油胶复合工艺与纬向梭织麂皮面料复合之前，先通过PU树脂与一加强层相复合，加强层为尼龙风格布，克重为5克每平方米。
以上详细描述了本发明的较佳具体实施例。应当理解，本领域的普通技术人员无需创造性劳动就可以根据本发明的构思做出诸多修改和变化。因此，凡本技术领域中技术人员依本发明的构思在现有技术的基础上通过逻辑分析、推理或者有限的实验可以得到的技术方案，皆应在由权利要求书所确定的保护范围内。

Claims (6)

1.一种仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
S1、表面层制备：采用喷水织机织造纬向梭织麂皮面料，并经过碱减量、烘干、磨毛、染色、半成品定型、梳毛、成品定型、印花、烫金工艺制成纬向梭向麂皮绒面料；
S2、中间层制备：采用经编机纺织，并经过拉毛、染色、烘干定型、拉毛、成品定型、压花工艺制成经编绒布；
S3、复合：采用油胶复合工艺将中间层的压花一侧与表面层光面一侧进行复合；
S4、水洗烘干：浆经过油胶复合工艺所制备的复合面料经过水洗和烘干工艺；
S5、步骤S4处理后的复合面料中中间层与一层针刺无纺面料复合，即得到仿热风揉纹牛皮面料。
2.如权利要求1所述的仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，其特征在于，步骤S1表面层的制备，按照如下步骤：
S1.1、织造：采用喷水织机，经纱使用75D/72F 涤纶DTY，纬纱使用225D/36*24 海岛丝，纬密为26根/cm，总经根数为10800根，所织造的坯布的克重为130克每平方米，门幅为160cm；
S1.2、碱减量：处理温度为100-120℃，时间为2-3小时，碱减量率控制在20-35%；
S1.3、烘干：烘干温度为160℃，速度为35-40米每分钟；
S1.4、磨毛：磨毛设备第一辊筒和第二辊筒表面为180目金刚砂，第三辊筒和第四辊筒表面为200目金刚砂，磨毛速度为30米每分钟；
S1.5、染色：染色温度为125-130℃、压力为3-4kg，染色为4小时；
S1.6、半成品定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟；
S1.7、梳毛：采用毛长为2cm的软毛刷，梳毛速度为30米每分钟；
S1.8、成品定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟，所制备的纬向梭织麂皮绒面料的克重为120克每平方米，门幅为155cm；
S1.9、印花：采用转移印花机，在步骤S1.8所制备的纬向梭织麂皮绒面料采用高色牢度分散油墨在绒面一侧进行印花处理，转移印花机的温度为210℃，印花速度为40米每分钟；
S1.10、烫金：选择花型，利用花型深度为0.15MM的凹版印刷棍，将膜量为50的PU树脂转移到厚度为0.22MM的BOPP离型膜上，再通过温度为110度的热棍将膜与布贴合，使膜上的PU树脂转移到布上，型成仿皮效果。
3.如权利要求2所述的仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，其特征在于，步骤S2制备中间层包括如下步骤：
S2.1、编织：采用KARL-MAYER型号为186英寸32针的高速经编机，第一把梳栉使用50D/24F 涤纶FDY、第二把梳栉使用75D/72F 涤纶复合网络丝作为原料，总头纹数为680根*8盘头，织造密度为23密/cm，白坯克重为150克每平方米，门幅为160cm；
S2.2、拉毛：采用三台拉毛机边机对步骤S2.1所纺织的白坯布进行拉毛处理，拉毛速度为25米每分钟；
S2.3、染色：使用氢氧化钠溶液对拉毛后的经编白坯布进行碱减量处理，温度为100-120℃，处理时间为2.5小时；经过碱减量处理的坯布在125-130℃、压力为3-4kg的压力条件下进行染色，染色时间为4小时；
S2.4、烘干定型：定型温度为165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟；
S2.5、拉毛：采用单台拉毛机，拉毛速度为30米每分钟；
S2.6、成品定型：定型温度165℃，定型速度为35-40米每分钟；
S2.7、压花：通过扫描设计好的花型，再通过激光雕刻型成压花棍，利用压力大于30T的四棍压花机，使经编绒布表面型成压花的纹路；压花机温度为180-200℃，速度30米/分钟。
4.如权利要求1所述的仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，其特征在于，步骤S3中油胶复合工艺中所采用的胶水为膜量为45的PU树脂复合胶。
5.如权利要求1所述的仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，其特征在于，步骤S4水洗烘干中水洗的时间为15分钟，烘干的温度为80-90℃，烘干时间为30-40分钟。
6.如权利要求1所述的仿热风揉纹牛皮面料生产工艺，其特征在于，所使用的针刺无纺面料克重为100克，原料为涤纶。
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