CN108660761A - 双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺 - Google Patents

双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN108660761A
CN108660761A CN201810233942.2A CN201810233942A CN108660761A CN 108660761 A CN108660761 A CN 108660761A CN 201810233942 A CN201810233942 A CN 201810233942A CN 108660761 A CN108660761 A CN 108660761A
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single thread
cloth
fabric
tubular knitting
spun
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赵军伟
蔡红艳
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Jiangyin Changjing Garden Wool Textile Co Ltd
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Jiangyin Changjing Garden Wool Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺，包括如下依次工艺步骤：准备双面圆机针织布料的原料，包括重量百分比为33.5％的采用品质支数为80S的澳毛条纤维纺成48/1公支的单纱、45％的采用涤纶长丝纤维纺成150旦尼尔的单纱、8.5％的采用棉纤维纺成的32S/1英支的单纱及13％的48/1公支的全毛纱；将32S/1英支的单纱及48/1公支的全毛纱交并成52/2公支的股线后与48/1公支的单纱、150旦尼尔的单纱采用双面圆机针织成布料；对所织得的布料依次通过缝边、缩呢、洗呢、脱水、烘干、起毛、烫剪、蒸呢工序制成成品。本发明制成的布料手感好、档次高；穿着舒适、贴身和体、无拘紧感，且防油防水。

Description

双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺。
背景技术
随着人们生活水平的提高，对于服装的服用性、装饰性等的要求越来越高，羊毛等高档原料越来越多地用于纺织及布料的生产，但为了弥补羊毛的强力不高等缺陷，一般会采用羊毛和其他原料纤维混纺后再织成布料，但即使是这样，很多混纺的纱线织成布料后手感不好、档次不高，且不具备防水防油的功能。授权公开号为CN 103668735B的专利：远红外蓄热针织双面面料及其生产方法，使用蓄热纤维长丝织造所述的双面针织面料坯布，然后对所述的坯布进行染整处理；其中，所述蓄热纤维包括咖啡碳粘胶纤维、兰精木代尔以及腈纶，其中，所述咖啡碳粘胶纤维是表面加入咖啡晶体的粘胶纤维。本发明通过采用咖啡碳纤维、兰精木代尔、腈纶等多种纤维素类纤维进行合理的组合搭配设计，生产远红外蓄热保暖功能面料，该面料在保持了咖啡碳纤维的抑菌除臭、发散负离子、发射远红外线，升温保暖等特性的基础上，通过材料组合性价比，精心的染整工艺设计等多项衡量成品的指标得到优化组合，使面料的手感效果、舒适性、蓄热保暖性得到了有力保障，效果明显。授权公开号为CN 101265634B的专利：一种玉米组份覆盖式空气层双面针织面料的制作方法，该方法编织出的面料形成了内层为PLA35％/MODAL65％纤维，面料外层为精梳棉纱的特殊结构；面组织的凸起是在针织大圆机上利用织针不同排列勾取不同纱线，排针为下针高低板6隔6或3隔3或4隔4相间排列，采用浮线和成圈交替进行形成有规律的凸起。地组织中高低踵针1隔1排列编织形成平整的平面；该组织外层呈现有规律的凸起结构，与平整的内层构成丰满的空气层，有很强的立体感。该面料经过特殊的无碱染色及后整理工艺，面料贴肤面滑爽、舒适具有良好的亲肤性，整体柔软、保暖具有高舒适性的绿色环保型针织面料。但都没解决防水防油的问题。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于，克服现有技术中存在的缺陷，提供双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺，制成的布料手感好、档次高；穿着舒适、贴身和体、无拘紧感，且防油防水。
为实现上述目的，本发明的技术方案是设计一种双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺，包括如下依次工艺步骤：
S1：准备双面圆机针织布料的原料，包括重量百分比为33.5％的采用品质支数为80S的澳毛条纤维纺成48/1公支的单纱、45％的采用涤纶长丝纤维纺成150旦尼尔的单纱、8.5％的采用棉纤维纺成的32S/1英支的单纱及13％的48/1公支的全毛纱；各原料纤维其单纱的纺纱工艺为将原料纤维依次经过染色、复洗、拼毛、混条、前针梳、精梳、后针梳工序完成毛条染色工艺，然后再依次经过混条、三道针梳、两道粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻工序完成纺纱工艺；
S2：将32S/1英支的单纱及48/1公支的全毛纱交并成52/2公支的股线后与48/1公支的单纱、150旦尼尔的单纱采用双面圆机针织成布料；
S3：对S2所织得的布料依次通过缝边、缩呢、洗呢、脱水、烘干、起毛、烫剪、蒸呢工序制成成品。采用这种工艺生产出的布料织成的成衣手感好、档次高；穿着舒适、贴身和体、无拘紧感。
进一步的技术方案是，双面圆机为18针双面圆机。
进一步的技术方案是，在S3步骤后还对织物采用双浸三轧、预烘干、烘干的工艺进行织物的防油后处理；其中双浸三轧的轧余率为70％～80％，浸轧液中包含防水防油整理剂、交联剂，防水防油整理剂为聚1,1-二氢全氟烷基丙烯酸酯，浓度为35g/L，交联剂为Y-311SN交联剂，浓度为1.5g/L；预烘干的工艺条件为烘干温度75℃、织物含水率10％；烘干的工艺条件为烘干温度为110℃～120℃、2～3min。采用聚1,1-二氢全氟烷基丙烯酸酯，不像其他防水防油整理剂浸轧到织物上后还需高温条件才能固化到原料纤维上，持久性不高；由于氟原子的原子半径，极化率小和负电性高，碳-氟键的极化率也小，因而含有大量碳-氟键化合物的分子间凝聚力小，致使其表面能降低，形成对各种液体(含油类)很难润湿和很难附着的特性。所以聚1,1-二氢全氟烷基丙烯酸酯固化到纤维表面后其防水防油性能非常高超。而封闭型异氰酸酯交联剂Y-311SN，热处理时可释放出异氰酸酯(-NCO)基团，在一定温度下能发生解封闭反应，生成异氰酸，这样可以在低温条件下(相比于其他防水防油剂170℃左右的高温)使防水防油剂反应成为网状的高分子膜结构，使得防水防油效果能够持久。
进一步的技术方案为，在对织物防油后处理后还对织物进行二次防油后处理：先将织物浸放在硬脂酸钠溶液中，室温下浸泡l5min后将硫酸铝溶液倒入其中，最后取出织物在90℃温度下烘干8min；其中，硬脂酸钠溶液60g/L，浴比为1：40；硫酸铝溶液50g/L，浴比为l：30。这种处理方式不影响第一次防油后处理，且能提高整个织物的防水能力。
本发明的优点和有益效果在于：制成的布料手感好、档次高；穿着舒适、贴身和体、无拘紧感，且防油防水；采用聚1,1-二氢全氟烷基丙烯酸酯，不像其他防水防油整理剂浸轧到织物上后还需高温条件才能固化到原料纤维上，持久性不高；由于氟原子的原子半径，极化率小和负电性高，碳-氟键的极化率也小，因而含有大量碳-氟键化合物的分子间凝聚力小，致使其表面能降低，形成对各种液体(含油类)很难润湿和很难附着的特性。所以聚1,1-二氢全氟烷基丙烯酸酯固化到纤维表面后其防水防油性能非常高超。而封闭型异氰酸酯交联剂Y-311SN，热处理时可释放出异氰酸酯(-NCO)基团，在一定温度下能发生解封闭反应，生成异氰酸，这样可以在低温条件下(相比于其他防水防油剂170℃左右的高温)使防水防油剂反应成为网状的高分子膜结构，使得防水防油效果能够持久。二次防油后处理不影响第一次防油后处理，且能提高整个织物的防水能力。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例，对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案，而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例一：
本发明是双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺，包括如下依次工艺步骤：
S1：准备双面圆机针织布料的原料，包括重量百分比为33.5％的采用品质支数为80S的澳毛条纤维纺成48/1公支的单纱、45％的采用涤纶长丝纤维纺成150旦尼尔的单纱、8.5％的采用棉纤维纺成的32S/1英支的单纱及13％的48/1公支的全毛纱；各原料纤维其单纱的纺纱工艺为将原料纤维依次经过染色、复洗、拼毛、混条、前针梳、精梳、后针梳工序完成毛条染色工艺，然后再依次经过混条、三道针梳、两道粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻工序完成纺纱工艺；
S2：将32S/1英支的单纱及48/1公支的全毛纱交并成52/2公支的股线后与48/1公支的单纱、150旦尼尔的单纱采用双面圆机针织成布料；
S3：对S2所织得的布料依次通过缝边、缩呢、洗呢、脱水、烘干、起毛、烫剪、蒸呢工序制成成品。
在S3步骤后还对织物采用双浸三轧、预烘干、烘干的工艺进行织物的防油后处理；其中双浸三轧的轧余率为70％，浸轧液中包含防水防油整理剂、交联剂，防水防油整理剂为聚1,1-二氢全氟烷基丙烯酸酯，浓度为35g/L，交联剂为Y-311SN交联剂，浓度为1.5g/L；预烘干的工艺条件为烘干温度75℃、织物含水率10％；烘干的工艺条件为烘干温度为110℃、2min。
在对织物防油后处理后还对织物进行二次防油后处理：先将织物浸放在硬脂酸钠溶液中，室温下浸泡l5min后将硫酸铝溶液倒入其中，最后取出织物在90℃温度下烘干8min；其中，硬脂酸钠溶液60g/L，浴比为1：40；硫酸铝溶液50g/L，浴比为l：30。
实施例二：
与实施例一的不同仅在于，其中双浸三轧的轧余率为80％；烘干的工艺条件为烘干温度为120℃、3min。
实施例三：
与实施例一的不同仅在于，其中双浸三轧的轧余率为75％烘干的工艺条件为烘干温度为115℃、2.5min。
对比例一：
采用授权公开号为CN 103668735B的专利制成的布料。
对比例二：
与实施例一的不同仅在于，双面圆机针织布料的原料，包括重量百分比为65％的品质支数为80S的澳毛条纤维、35％的150旦尼尔的涤纶长丝纤维。
对实施例及对比例的试样进行检测，根据AATCC22：沾水度测试方法、AATCC118-2002拒油性：碳氢化合物的阻抗测试、易去污性能测试-AATCC130、GB/T 3923.1-2013纺织品织物拉伸性能第1部分：断裂强力和断裂伸长率的测定(条样法)、GB/T5453-1997纺织品织物透气性的测定分别对试样的防水性、防油性、防污性、强力损失、透气性进行测定，并对试样的白度及手感进行测试，其中，白度的测试采用WSB-VI白度仪测定整理前后试样的白度，每个样品在不同位置测试5个值并取其平均值作为测试结果；手感用织物的蓬松度、平滑性来评价(为便于列表，对比例用D表示，实施例用S表示)：
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (4)

1.双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺，其特征在于，包括如下依次工艺步骤：
S1：准备双面圆机针织布料的原料，包括重量百分比为33.5％的采用品质支数为80S的澳毛条纤维纺成48/1公支的单纱、45％的采用涤纶长丝纤维纺成150旦尼尔的单纱、8.5％的采用棉纤维纺成的32S/1英支的单纱及13％的48/1公支的全毛纱；各原料纤维其单纱的纺纱工艺为将原料纤维依次经过染色、复洗、拼毛、混条、前针梳、精梳、后针梳工序完成毛条染色工艺，然后再依次经过混条、三道针梳、两道粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻工序完成纺纱工艺；
S2：将32S/1英支的单纱及48/1公支的全毛纱交并成52/2公支的股线后与48/1公支的单纱、150旦尼尔的单纱采用双面圆机针织成布料；
S3：对S2所织得的布料依次通过缝边、缩呢、洗呢、脱水、烘干、起毛、烫剪、蒸呢工序制成成品。
2.如权利要求1所述的双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述双面圆机为18针双面圆机。
3.如权利要求2所述的双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺，其特征在于，在S3步骤后还对织物采用双浸三轧、预烘干、烘干的工艺进行织物的防油后处理；其中双浸三轧的轧余率为70％～80％，浸轧液中包含防水防油整理剂、交联剂，防水防油整理剂为聚1,1-二氢全氟烷基丙烯酸酯，浓度为35g/L，交联剂为Y-311SN交联剂，浓度为1.5g/L；预烘干的工艺条件为烘干温度75℃、织物含水率10％；烘干的工艺条件为烘干温度为110℃～120℃、2～3min。
4.如权利要求3所述的双面圆机针织布料的生产工艺，其特征在于，在对织物防油后处理后还对织物进行二次防油后处理：先将织物浸放在硬脂酸钠溶液中，室温下浸泡l5min后将硫酸铝溶液倒入其中，最后取出织物在90℃温度下烘干8min；其中，硬脂酸钠溶液60g/L，浴比为1：40；硫酸铝溶液50g/L，浴比为l：30。
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