CN108382027B - 一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN108382027B
CN108382027B CN201810021498.8A CN201810021498A CN108382027B CN 108382027 B CN108382027 B CN 108382027B CN 201810021498 A CN201810021498 A CN 201810021498A CN 108382027 B CN108382027 B CN 108382027B
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fabric
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flannelette
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高山
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Jiangsu Tianyi Clothing Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，发热纤维复合面料采用发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维混纺成纱线后，在由针织机编织成外层面料，以聚酯纤维和氨纶纤维混纺成纱线后，在由针织机编织成里层绒布，利用人体的皮肤呼吸产生的湿气来达到吸湿发热的效果，对外层面料和里层绒布分别经过亲水整理和疏水整理，进一步提高该面料的吸湿发热能力。该面料具有良好的水洗色牢度和优异的抗起毛起球性，是高档保暖内衣和轻薄型保暖家纺面料的极佳原料。

Description

一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织面料织造技术领域，具体涉及一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺。
背景技术
随着经济的发展和生活水平的提高，人们对针织服装的要求也越来越高。近几年来，气候变化无常，人们往往因服装更换不及时导致诸多疾病频发，这对服装尤其是内衣的保暖功能提出了更高的要求。芯吸效应是指当织物中纤维形成的毛细管处于水平位置时，虽没有外力场的势能差，但由于毛细管弯曲面附加压力的作用，能够自动引导液体流动。利用芯吸效应设计的双层织物，织物里层采用疏水纤维，外层采用亲水纤维。由内层疏水纤维将人体排出的汗液导向织物的外层，在由外层的亲水纤维将液体吸收，储存并在织物外层表面蒸发，保持内层干燥舒适。同时，吸湿发热纤维可以通过吸收周围环境中的水蒸气或是人体释放出来的汗气发热，是一种积极的保暖材料。发热纤维不仅能满足人们冬季保暖的需求，还兼有功能性、美观性的特点，越来越受到人们的喜欢与青睐。
与本发明最接近的现有技术是“紧密赛络纺白竹炭-腈纶-粘胶混纺纱及生产方法(CN105908305A)”，构成如下：白竹炭30/吸光发热腈纶28/美雅碧超细腈纶22/粘胶20 40S；白竹炭纤维是1.2D×38mm，美雅碧超细腈纶纤维是0.9D×38mm、吸光发热腈纶纤维是1.5D×38mm，粘胶纤维是1.2D×38mm。其优点是该混纺纱线不仅借助吸光发热腈纶和美雅碧超细腈纶获得了较好的保暖性能，还因为加入了白竹炭纤维而具有一定的抗菌除臭功效，远红外功能和释放负离子功能。其缺点是该面料的制作工艺复杂，面料生产成本高。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，该面料具有优良的保暖性能，同时具有很好的吸湿性和优异的抗起毛起球性，是高档保暖内衣和轻薄型保暖家纺面料的极佳原料。
为了实现上述目的，本发明的技术方案如下：
一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述发热纤维复合面料包括通过针织圆形纬编机织成的外层面料和通过三线经编机织成的里层绒布，所述外层面料和里层绒布通过粘接连接，所述发热纤维复合面料的制备工艺包括如下步骤：
(1)外层面料的制备；
a、将外层面料针织所用纱线装在针织机上：外层面料所用纱线采用紧密赛络纺工艺；混纺后的纱线选用筒径30～38英寸、针数18～32针/英寸的单面大圆机织成外层面料；
b、对针织好的外层面料进行染整处理：将活性染料加入染缸内，活性染料的加入量为面料重量的1～3％，采用气流染缸在60℃高温下喷雾染色，染色时间12h；
c、对染色后的外层面料进行亲水整理：将外层面料浸渍于亲水柔软剂溶液中静置30min；
d、对亲水处理后的外层面料进行定型处理：在定型机中进行整理，温度为170～180℃，车速为20～38m/min；
e、对定性处理后的外层面料在进行预缩处理：蒸汽给湿、胶毯预缩、温度为150～170℃，时间30s；
(2)里层绒布的制备；
a、将里层绒布针织所用纱线装在针织机上：选用三线经编机织造成里层绒布；
b、对针织后的里层绒布进行染整处理：将分散染料加入到水流染缸内对针织后的里层绒布染色，分散染料的添加量为面料重量的1～3％，采用水流染缸在120～140℃高温下染色，染色时间为4h，浴比为3:1，再将染色后的里层绒布用烘干机进行烘干处理，烘干温度为140～150℃；
c、将烘干后的里层绒布进行疏水整理：将经染整处理后的里层绒布放入含有质量百分数为2～5％的氢氧化钠溶液中浸渍30min，然后水洗2～3次，再用烘干机在30～40℃温度下将里层绒布烘干，再对里层绒布的表面在常温下喷洒雾状疏水剂，喷洒雾状疏水剂的时间为30s每平方米；
d、对疏水整理后的里层绒布进行高温湿定型处理：在定型机中进行高温湿定型整理，温度为180～190℃，车速为20～38m/min；
e、对定性处理后的里层绒布再进行磨绒处理：将定型处理后的里层绒布在36辊拉毛机和烫光剪毛联合机上经三次染光，两次剪毛处理；
(3)层压处理；
用层压机将外层面料与里层绒布复合在一起，采用共聚酰胺热熔胶作为黏合剂，以施胶量为10mg/m2流量，将黏合剂涂覆在里层绒布和/或外层面料上，在将涂胶后的里层绒布与外层面料通过层压机的高温压烫辊将其粘合成一体，涂胶后的里层绒布与外层面料在高温压烫辊下的压烫时间为15～20s，高温压烫辊的压烫温度为130℃。
进一步优选的技术方案，一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，所述外层面料采用按照质量百分比为20～30％的发热腈纶纤维、20～40％的长绒棉纤维和30～60％的粘棉纤维混纺而成，所述纱线细度为30～60s。
进一步优选的技术方案，一种发热纤维复合材料的加工工艺，所述外层面料采用发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维按照质量百分比为30％：30％：40％混纺，所述混纺纱线的细度为40s。
进一步优选的技术方案，所述里层绒布采用按照质量百分比为85～95％的聚酯纤维和5～15％的氨纶纤维混纺，所述纱线细度为50～80D。
进一步优选的技术方案，一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，所述里层绒布采用聚酯纤维和氨纶按照质量百分比为94％：6％混纺，混纺纱线为75D/144F。
进一步优选的技术方案，所述外层面料的亲水处理工艺为：添加2％owf型号为WS的亲水柔软剂，1％owf型号为LGO的非离子形有机硅柔软剂，用柠檬酸调节pH 5～7，浴比为1:10，轧液率60％，120±5℃烘干。外层面料经过亲水处理后能更好的吸收空气中的湿气以及利用由里层绒布导出的湿气进行发热。
进一步优选的技术方案，所述里层绒布的疏水整理剂的配制方法为：以无水乙醇为溶剂，往溶剂中添加质量百分比为2％～4％四乙氧基硅烷，再用醋酸调节pH值至3.5～5.5，混合均匀后，再加入质量百分比为1～5％型号为TS720的疏水型气相二氧化硅形成混合液，然后在室温下采用高剪切均质机对上述混合液以速度3000r/min均质5min。所述面料先经氢氧化钠处理，使聚酯纤维表面部分水解，表面形成凹坑，增加活性位点，进一步引入疏水基团，提高里层绒面的疏水性和防污能力。
进一步优选的技术方案，一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，所述里层绒布的磨绒处理为单层起绒处理，拉毛机的车速为18～20m/min，顺时针转速为315～330r/min，逆时针转速为300～350r/min。
进一步优选的技术方案，一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，所述里层绒布采用的聚酯纤维为中空保温涤纶。
进一步优选的技术方案，一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，所述面料的克重为200～250g/m2。
本发明的优点和有益效果在于：一种发热纤维复合面料采用发热腈纶、长绒棉和粘棉为外层面料，以聚酯纤维和氨纶为里层绒布，利用吸收人体的皮肤呼吸产生的湿气来达到吸湿发热的效果；同时对外层面料进行亲水整理，里层绒面进行疏水整理，通过芯吸效应进一步提高湿传导能力，提高面料的发热性能；利用纤维表面细微的沟槽所产生的毛细现象结合紧密赛络纺工艺，使多余的水分、经扩散、传输等作用迅速吸收并散发，使身体保持干爽舒适。所述面料具有良好的吸湿发热性能、保温性能和抗污能力，作为内衣用面料具有良好的发展前景。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案，而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例一
一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，所述发热纤维复合面料包括外层面料和里层绒布，所述外层面料采用德国拜耳发热腈纶纤维、新疆长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维，发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维的混纺比为30％、30％、40％，纱线细度为40s；所述里层绒布采用的聚酯纤维和氨纶纤维的混纺比95％、5％，所述聚酯纤维为减速盛虹一等品原料，所述氨纶纤维采用伊拉斯邦40D高温氨纶纤维，混纺后纱线为75D/144F；外层面料和里层绒布通过粘接连接，所述发热纤维复合面料的制备工艺包括如下步骤：
(1)外层面料的制备
a、将外层面料针织所用纱线装在针织机上：外层面料所用纱线采用紧密赛络纺工艺；选用筒径30英寸、针数32针/英寸的台湾佰源进口的大圆机将混纺后的纱线织成外层面料，采用该纺纱工艺和针织工艺织成的面料有棉的骨感，粘胶的柔软度，腈纶的保暖和发热性；
b、对针织好的外层面料进行染整处理：加入德国汽巴活性染色剂，采用气流染缸在60℃下高温喷雾染色，染色时间12h，采用该染色方法染整处理的面料具有较高的色牢度；
c、对染色后的外层面料进行亲水整理：将面料浸渍于亲水柔软剂溶液中静置30min，所述亲水柔软剂配方为：2％owf亲水柔软剂WS(采购自江苏沃森公司)，1％owf LGO非离子形有机硅柔软剂(采购自成都凯特有机硅新材料公司)，用柠檬酸调节pH6，浴比为1:10，轧液率60％，120±5℃烘干；
d、对亲水处理后的外层面料进行定型处理：在定型机中进行整理，温度为170～180℃，车速为38/min；
e、对定性处理后的外层面料在进行预缩处理：蒸汽给湿、胶毯预缩、温度为150～170℃，时间为30s；
(2)里层绒面的制备
a、将里层绒布针织所用纱线装在针织机上：聚酯纤维和氨纶纤维混纺后的纱线为75D/144F，选用三线经编机织造里层绒面；
b、对针织后的里层绒布进行染整处理：将分散染料加入到水流染缸内对针织后的里层绒布染色，所述分散染料采购自德国汽巴公司，分散染料的添加量为面料重量的1％，采用水流染缸在120～140℃下高温染色，染色时间为4h，浴比为3:1，再将染色后的里层绒布用烘干机进行烘干处理，烘干温度为140～150℃；
c、将烘干后的里层绒布进行疏水整理：将经染整处理后的里层绒布放入含有质量百分数为2％的氢氧化钠溶液中浸渍30min，然后水洗2～3次，再用烘干机在30～40℃温度下将里层绒布烘干，然后在面料表面常温喷雾疏水剂，喷洒雾状疏水剂的时间为30s每平方米。疏水剂配方为：溶剂为无水乙醇，添加质量分数为2％～4％四乙氧基硅烷，用醋酸调节pH值至3.5～5.5，混合均匀后，加入质量分数为1～5％为TS720型号的疏水型气相二氧化硅形成混合液，室温下采用高剪切均质机对上述混合液以速度3000r/min均质5min；
d、对疏水整理后的里层绒布进行高温湿定型处理：在定型机中进行高温湿定型整理，温度为180～190℃，车速为38/min；
e、对定性处理后的里层绒布再进行磨绒处理：将定型处理后的里层绒布在36辊拉毛机和烫光剪毛联合机上经三次染光，两次剪毛处理。绒面更加细腻、柔软和有光泽，所述里层绒布的磨绒处理为单层起绒处理，拉毛机的车速为18m/min，顺时针转速为315r/min，逆时针转速为300r/min；
(3)层压处理
用层压机将外层面料与里层绒布复合在一起，采用共聚酰胺热熔胶作为黏合剂，以施胶量为10mg/m2流量，将黏合剂涂覆在里层绒布和/或外层面料上，在将涂胶后的里层绒布与外层面料通过层压机的高温压烫辊将其粘合成一体，涂胶后的里层绒布与外层面料在高温压烫辊下的压烫时间为15～20s，高温压烫辊的压烫温度为130℃。
实施例二
实施例二与实施例一的区别在于，所述外层面料采用发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维，发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维按照混纺比30/20/50混纺；所述里层绒布采用中空保温涤纶纤维和40D的氨纶纤维，所述聚酯纤维和氨纶纤维的混纺比为90/10，纱线为75D/144F；所述外层面料的制备：选用筒径30英寸、针数32针/英寸的台湾佰源进口的大圆机织布而成。
实施例三
实施例三与实施例一的区别在于，所述外层面料采用发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维，发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维按混纺比30/30/40混纺，混纺后纱线细度为80s；所述里层绒布采用聚酯纤维和氨纶纤维按85/15混纺比混纺，混纺后纱线为75D/144F；所述外层面料的制备选用筒径38英寸、针数28针/英寸的台湾佰源进口的大圆机织布而成。
实施例四
实施例四与实施例一的区别在于，所述外层面料采用发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维，发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维按混纺比20/40/40混纺，混纺后纱线细度为30s；所述里层绒布采用聚酯纤维和氨纶纤维按混纺比95/5混纺，混纺后纱线细度为50D/144F；所述外层面料的制备选用筒径34英寸、针数18针/英寸的台湾佰源进口的大圆机织布而成。
对照例
对照例为外层面料经过亲水整理和/或里层绒布经过疏水整理后的发热纤维复合面料与未经疏水整理和亲水整理的复合面料的对比。
对照例与实施例一的区别在于，所述发热纤维复合面料外层面料的制备不经亲水整理，同时里层绒布的制备过程也不经疏水整理。
实施例和对照例的检测
保暖性能测试
针织品保温性测试采用国家标准GB/T11048-1989纺织品保温性实验方法(平板式恒定温差散热法)。织物保暖性能用传热系数、克罗值和保温率衡量。
传热系数指织物表面温差为1℃时，通过单位面积的热流量，其单位为W/m2·℃。传热系数越大，纺织品散热越快，织物的保暖性越差。
克罗值是指一个静坐或从事轻度劳动的人，其代谢作用产生热量约为210kJ/(m2·h)，在室温为20～21℃、相对湿度小于50％、风速不超过0.1m/s的环境中感觉舒适，能将皮肤平均温度维持在33℃左右时，所穿着服装的隔热值定义为1clo。
保温率为试验板无样品的散热量和有样品的散热量之差与无样品时的散热量之比的百分率。
如下表所示，将实施例1～4与对照例的发热纤维复合面料的保暖性比较可知，发热纤维的含量越高，面料的发热性能越好，长绒棉和粘棉的含量越多面料的克重越大，外层面料经亲水整理，里层绒布经疏水整理会提高面料的保暖性，综上所述，实施例一面料克重较小，保暖效果最好，为最优方案。
实施例与对照例保暖性测试结果
Figure BDA0001543684270000091
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (9)

1.一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述发热纤维复合面料包括通过针织圆形纬编机织成的外层面料和通过三线经编机织成的里层绒布，所述外层面料和里层绒布通过粘接连接，所述发热纤维复合面料的制备工艺包括如下步骤：
(1)外层面料的制备；
a、将外层面料针织所用纱线装在针织机上：外层面料所用纱线采用紧密赛络纺工艺，混纺后的纱线选用筒径30～38英寸、针数18～32针/英寸的单面大圆机织成外层面料；
b、对针织好的外层面料进行染整处理：将活性染料加入染缸内，活性染料的加入量为面料重量的1～3％，采用气流染缸在60℃高温下喷雾染色，染色时间12h；
c、对染色后的外层面料进行亲水整理：将外层面料浸渍于亲水柔软剂溶液中静置30min；
d、对亲水处理后的外层面料进行定型处理：在定型机中进行整理，温度为170～180℃，车速为20～38m/min；
e、对定型处理后的外层面料在进行预缩处理：蒸汽给湿、胶毯预缩、温度为150～170℃，时间30s；
(2)里层绒布的制备；
a、将里层绒布针织所用纱线装在针织机上：选用三线经编机织造成里层绒布；
b、对针织后的里层绒布进行染整处理：将分散染料加入到水流染缸内对针织后的里层绒布染色，分散染料的添加量为面料重量的1～3％，采用水流染缸在120～140℃高温下染色，染色时间为4h，浴比为3:1，再将染色后的里层绒布用烘干机进行烘干处理，烘干温度为140～150℃；
c、将烘干后的里层绒布进行疏水整理：将经染整处理后的里层绒布放入含有质量百分数为2～5％的氢氧化钠溶液中浸渍30min，然后水洗2～3次，再用烘干机在30～40℃温度下将里层绒布烘干，再对里层绒布的表面在常温下喷洒雾状疏水剂，喷洒雾状疏水剂的时间为30s每平方米；
疏水剂的配制方法为：以无水乙醇为溶剂，往溶剂中添加质量百分比为2％～4％四乙氧基硅烷，再用醋酸调节pH值至3.5～5.5，混合均匀后，再加入质量百分比为1～5％型号为TS720的疏水型气相二氧化硅形成混合液，然后在室温下采用高剪切均质机对上述混合液以速度3000r/min均质5min；
d、对疏水整理后的里层绒布进行高温湿定型处理：在定型机中进行高温湿定型整理，温度为180～190℃，车速为20～38m/min；
e、对定型处理后的里层绒布再进行磨绒处理：将定型处理后的里层绒布在36辊拉毛机和烫光剪毛联合机上经三次染光，两次剪毛处理；
(3)层压处理；
用层压机将外层面料与里层绒布复合在一起，采用共聚酰胺热熔胶作为黏合剂，以施胶量为10mg/m2流量，将黏合剂涂覆在里层绒布和/或外层面料上，再将涂胶后的里层绒布与外层面料通过层压机的高温压烫辊将其粘合成一体，涂胶后的里层绒布与外层面料在高温压烫辊下的压烫时间为15～20s，高温压烫辊的压烫温度为130℃。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述外层面料采用按照质量百分比为20～30％的发热腈纶纤维、20～40％的长绒棉纤维和30～60％的粘棉纤维混纺而成，所述纱线细度为30～60s。
3.根据权利要求2所述的一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述外层面料采用发热腈纶纤维、长绒棉纤维和粘棉纤维按照30％、30％、40％混纺而成，所述混纺后的纱线细度为40s。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述里层绒布采用按照质量百分比为85～95％的聚酯纤维和5～15％的氨纶纤维混纺，所述纱线细度为50～80D。
5.根据权利要求4所述的一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述里层绒布采用聚酯纤维和氨纶纤维按照95％、5％混纺，混纺后的纱线为75D/144F。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述外层面料的亲水处理的工艺为：添加2％owf型号为WS的亲水柔软剂，1％owf型号为LGO的非离子形有机硅柔软剂，用柠檬酸调节pH 5～7，浴比为1:10，轧液率60％，120±5℃烘干。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述里层绒布的磨绒处理为单层起绒处理，拉毛机的车速为18～20m/min，顺时针转速为315～330r/min，逆时针转速为300～350r/min。
8.根据权利要求4所述的一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述里层绒布采用的聚酯纤维为中空保温涤纶。
9.根据权利要求1所述的一种发热纤维复合面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述发热纤维复合面料的克重为200～250g/m2。
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