CN117568993A - 一种具有持久凉感的针织面料及其加工方法 - Google Patents
一种具有持久凉感的针织面料及其加工方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN117568993A CN117568993A CN202311736082.1A CN202311736082A CN117568993A CN 117568993 A CN117568993 A CN 117568993A CN 202311736082 A CN202311736082 A CN 202311736082A CN 117568993 A CN117568993 A CN 117568993A
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- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- fiber
- cool feeling
- cool
- cotton
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
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- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
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- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
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- D06M2101/34—Polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/20—Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Abstract
本发明属于纺织面料技术领域,尤其涉及一种具有持久凉感的针织面料及其加工方法,包括面料本体,所述面料本体包括由PCM棉质纱线与扁平截面纤维纱线织造而成的凉感组织;的凉感组织;面料本体加工包括以下步骤:S1:原料准备、S2:织造、S3:定胚、S4:酶洗、S5:凉感整理、S6:焙烘等;适合用作持久凉感面料的PCM相变纤维的相变点温度介于26℃与28℃之间;扁平截面纤维可最大程度提升凉感面料与皮肤接触的面积,由于纤维比空气的导热速度快,面料与皮肤的接触面积越大,越利于皮肤表面热量迅速通过面料传导至空气中,从而获得优异的凉感性能。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于纺织面料技术领域,尤其涉及一种具有持久凉感的针织面料及其加工方法。
背景技术
近年来,随着现代工业的快速发展,大量排放累积的二氧化碳所造成的温室效应越来越明显,全球每年极端炎热的天气越来越多,持续炎热的时间也越来越长,为了在炎热的天气下追求凉爽的舒适感,近年来,人们越来越趋向于购买各种具有凉感功能的衣服。为了满足不断增长的市场需求,各大服装品牌争相开发具有凉感功能的创新面料。
目前,市场上凉感面料的开发主要是围绕提高材料的导热率,提升瞬间凉感进行的。制备凉感面料的方法主要有采用凉感纤维和凉感后整理二种。前者通过将具有高导热率的云母、玉石等纳米矿石粉加入纺丝原液制得凉感纤维,由其制成的面料具备高导热性,织物的瞬间凉感明显提高,但这种方法持续性凉感效果一般,并且加工工艺复杂,纺丝难度大,对设备和工艺的条件要求较高,加入的矿石颗粒物会降低纤维的力学性质,影响后续的织造与服用性能。后者主要是将木糖醇、赤糖醇、薄荷酮、丝素蛋白等遇水吸热及保湿的因子制成凉感整理剂,通过后整理工艺添加到到面料上来实现凉感效果,但由于凉感整理剂普通存在不耐水洗以及凉感物质易挥发的不足,大大缩短了凉感时效,持久凉感效果同样一般。
此外,一些现有技术中也采用了特殊的加工工艺来提高面料的凉爽感,例如面料采用提花、压花或涂层等工艺制成微细凹凸结构。这些工艺能够增加空气流通性,从而增强凉爽感觉。然而,这些工艺通常会增加面料的加工成本和复杂度,不利于大规模生产,并且对持久凉感帮助也不大。
由于材料本身的特性,目前市场上制作凉感面料大多采用导热率好、凉感效果好的化学纤维,但由于化纤存在有吸湿性、散湿性、透气性或抗静电性能差的不足,导致穿着者实际体验感不佳,满足不了人们对高品质凉爽舒适的服用需求。天然纤维中的棉纤维吸湿透气性好,但导热系数较低,夏天穿着不够凉快,且由于棉纤维易皱、散湿性差的原因,出汗后难以速干,导致面料吸汗后容易贴附在皮肤上,不够平整干爽。因此,开发一种既拥有良好的持久凉感性能,又兼具吸湿透气、速干抗皱的棉质面料,克服化纤与棉纤维各自的不足,并且增加长效凉感效果,应用于运动服、休闲服、帽袜等,对于追求高品质生活的人们具有十分重要的意义。
发明内容
本发明公开一种具有持久凉感的针织面料及其加工方法,主要解决目前面料凉感差的问题。
为实现所述目的,本发明提供一种具有持久凉感的针织面料,包括面料本体,所述面料本体包括由PCM棉质纱线与扁平截面纤维纱线织造而成的凉感组织。所述PCM棉质纱线包括赛络混纺的PCM相变纤维和棉纤维。所述PCM相变纤维为粘胶纤维、聚酰胺纤维、聚酯纤维、聚乙烯纤维、聚乳酸纤维中的任意一种或几种。所述扁平截面纤维纱线为聚酰胺纤维、聚酯纤维、聚乙烯纤维、聚乙烯醇纤维、聚乳酸纤维、粘胶纤维中任意一种或几种。所述PCM相变纤维的细度为0.8~1.5dtex;长度为38mm~51mm。所述扁平截面纤维纱线的细度为0.8~1.5dtex。
本发明还提供一种具有持久凉感的针织面料的加工方法,具体包括由以下等步骤制成:
原料准备步骤:将棉纤维与PCM相变纤维作为纺纱原料,并将其纺成棉质纱线;另将所需的扁平截面纤维纱线备齐,准备织造;
织造步骤:按照排针排纱以及菱角图将纱线织造成胚布;
定胚步骤:为了保持面料的尺寸稳定性,需要对坯布进行高温定胚处理;
酶洗步骤:将所述面料浸轧酶洗工作液,对坯布进行去除毛羽光洁处理;
凉感整理步骤:将所述面料浸轧凉感工作液,其中,凉感工作液的原料组成包括有凉感整理剂、交联剂、多元醇、树脂、催化剂、氨基硅油、强力保护剂、甲醛捕捉剂、渗透剂和水,控制轧液率为30%~100%,烘干温度为50~130℃,烘干时间为1~5min;
焙烘步骤:将所述面料在定型机上焙烘,焙烘温度为110~170℃,焙烘时间为1~5min。
本发明研究发现合适的材料搭配以及后整工艺对成品含棉针织面料的持久凉感及透气速干性能至关重要。为了保持持久的凉感效果,在材料本体中加入适量的PCM相变纤维非常重要,适合用作持久凉感面料的PCM相变纤维的相变点温度介于26℃与28℃之间,相变温度太高则难以形成凉感效果,相变温度太低则在常温已吸温饱和,没有现实凉感相变意义。同时,PCM相变纤维可避免相变微胶囊耐水洗性差的不足。在材料本体中搭配扁平截面纤维同样重要,扁平截面纤维可最大程度提升凉感面料与皮肤接触的面积,由于纤维比空气的导热速度快,面料与皮肤的接触面积越大,越利于皮肤表面热量迅速通过面料传导至空气中,从而获得优异的凉感性能。合理的后整工艺可提升持久凉感及透气速干性能。凉感整理液中加入树脂与催化剂,一方面与凉感助剂协同,提高持久凉感时长,另一方面可提高棉纤维的速干性能,防止出汗后贴肤的尴尬,也提高了面料的抗皱性能。本发明提供的材料搭配及后整工艺,使最终的面料获得优异的持久凉感效果以及透气速干性能,与此同时,本发明提供的技术方案生产效率高,生产流程短,成本可控,能够满足大批量实际生产需求。
在上述方法中,原料准备先将棉纤维与PCM相变纤维按一定配比混纺制得PCM棉质纱线,通过PCM相变微胶囊的相态转化进行热量吸收,能有效增加人体的瞬间凉感和持续凉感效果;再将PCM棉质纱线和扁平截面纤维纱线按织物结构进行织造得到胚布。上述方法中,PCM棉质纱线中棉纤维含量为50%~90%,PCM相变纤维含量为10%~50%;优选地,棉纤维含量为60%~80%,PCM相变纤维含量为20%~40%。为了使成品面料表面更光滑平整,上述纺纱方式采用赛络紧密纺强捻纺制,通过减少纱线内部纤维间的空气,提高纱线的导热性,进一步提高接触凉感。并且,由于强捻纱纱线紧度大,还能减少织物在染整过程中从纱线内部露出的毛羽。上述方法中,为了保持面料良好的吸湿透气性能,PCM相变纤维优选为PCM粘胶相变纤维与PCM锦纶相变纤维。 更优选地,PCM相变纤维优选为PCM粘胶相变纤维。
在上述方法中,扁平截面纤维横截面的长宽比对凉感帮助作用明显,不同长宽比对凉感影响不同,此外,长宽比也影响面料的实际呈现效果,长宽比过大,生产加工难度变大且极易产生横档问题,长宽比过小,且凉感提升不明显。因此,选择合适的长宽比扁平截面纤维非常重要,本发明所选用的扁平截面纤维横截面的长宽比大于等于1:3,小于等于1:8。优选地,扁平截面纤维横截面的长宽比大于等于1:4,小于等于1:6。
在上述方法中,为了使凉感效果持久,面料结构是一个不可忽视的因素,研究发现,布面越平整凉感体验感越好,因此,为了实现本发明的目的,优选使用的结构为平纹、双面以及小提花。
在上述方法中,为了保持面料的尺寸稳定性,需要对面料进行定胚处理,所述的定胚车速为20~30m/min,定胚温度为180~210℃,定胚过程中超喂5~30%,所述定胚配方中还包含有抗氧化剂 1~2g/L;优选地,定坯车速为24~28m/min,定胚温度为190~200℃,超喂10~20%;
在上述方法中,在所述织布和定胚步骤之间还包括坯布验布与烧毛步骤;在所述定胚和酶洗步骤之间还包括精练与漂白步骤;在所述酶洗和凉感整理步骤之间还包括染色、定型干布步骤;在所述焙烘步骤之后还包括预缩和成品检验步骤。
在上述方法中,为了使织物获得良好的润湿性及外观,有利于后续染色过程中染料的吸附和扩散,需要去除纱线表面油污与棉纤维表面存在的大量天然杂质(如果胶、蜡质、棉籽壳),因而需要对面料进行精炼处理,所述的精炼工作液中,除油剂浓度为 1~3g/L,高效精炼剂浓度为 1~5g/L,精炼酶(纤维素酶)浓度为1~3g/L,处理温度为95~100℃,处理时间为30~60min;优选地,除油剂浓度为 1~2g/L,高效精炼剂浓度为 2~4g/L,精炼酶浓度为2~3g/L,处理温度为95~100℃,处理时间为30~45min;
在上述方法中,精练完成后,直接漂白处理,其中漂白工作液中纯碱浓度为 1~4g/L,27.5%H2O2 浓度为 4~10g/L,稳定剂浓度为 0.5~2g/L,螯合分散剂浓度为 1~3g/L,处理温度为55~65℃,处理时间为30~60min;优选地,纯碱浓度为 2~3g/L,27.5%H2O2 浓度为 5~8g/L,稳定剂浓度为 1~2g/L,螯合分散剂浓度为 1~2g/L,处理温度为55~65℃,处理时间为45~60min;所述漂白完成后,用醋酸将面料水洗至pH为6~8。
在上述方法中,将经过酶洗处理的面料在溢流染色机上按设定参数完成染色,水洗、还原清洗、水洗、中和。所述的干布定型步骤中,将染色后面料在定型机上轧水、烘干,所述烘干温度为120~170℃,所述烘干机的车速为10~40m/min;
在上述方法中,所述的凉感整理是将烘干后的面料浸轧凉感整理液,然后于50~130℃烘干,优选的以凉感整理液的体积计,所述凉感整理液的原料组成包括凉感整理剂10~80g/L,交联剂10~50g/L、多元醇10~50g/L、树脂10~100g/L、催化剂2~20g/L、氨基硅油10~50g/L、强力保护剂10~50g/L和渗透剂1~5g/L。凉感工作液浸泡方式为二浸二轧,轧液率为30%~100%,烘干温度为50~130℃,烘干时间为1~5min;为使整理液能更均匀的分布到面料上,防止局部不匀导致手感与凉感效果出现左中右或头尾或局部偏差。优选地,轧液率为40%~70%,烘干温度为70~100℃,烘干时间为1~3min;
在上述方法中,优选地,所述凉感整理剂为缓释微胶囊,芯材为薄荷酮、薄荷醇、木糖醇、桉树醇、丝素蛋白中的任意一种或几种混合;所述的交联剂为丙烯酸酯、乙酸乙烯酯、nano PU中的任意一种或几种混合。
在上述方法中,优选地,所述的多元醇为乙二醇、丙三醇、丁二醇、TEA、PEG-200、PEG-400、PEG-600和PEG-2000中一种或几种混合;本发明凉感整理液中加入多元醇能够提高凉感整理剂与树脂的兼容性,同时,可改善面料悬垂感与顺滑性。
在上述方法中,优选地,所述树脂为改性2D树脂。
在上述方法中,优选地,所述氨基硅油包括HUNTSMAN生产的 ULTRATEX ®FMW和/或东莞市仙桥助剂实业有限公司生产的XQS-8,但不限于此。本发明提供的氨基硅油为含有高反应性官能团的乳液。氨基硅油能够在布面形成定向排列,均匀覆盖于纤维表面,使得织物获得最好的润滑与柔软效果;
在上述方法中,优选地,所述强力保护剂包括聚乙烯类强力保护剂,但不限于此。采用本发明提供的强力保护剂可以增加纱线与纱线间的润滑作用、减小相互间的摩擦系数,能够保护平滑织物,并在面料表面成膜,减少强力损失。
在上述方法中,优选地,所述渗透剂包括聚氧乙烯醚类渗透剂,但不限于此。本发明提供的渗透剂可以促进整理液被纤维素纤维的充分吸收,提高整理液与纤维素纤维的物理或化学的结合作用。
在上述方法中,优选地,所述的催化剂为金属盐和磷酸盐中的一种或几种的组合,例如可以是MgCl2,但不限于此。采用本发明提供催化剂能够加速树脂交联剂与纤维素纤维间的反应。
在上述方法中,优选地,所述工作液PH值为4.5~5.5。
本发明提供的改性2D树脂能够改善棉质面料的吸湿速干性能,其能够与纤维素纤维上羟基发生共价交联,亲水端基被部分封闭,亲水性能下降,降低了纤维的溶胀性,织物遇水时由于棉纤维表面及纤维内部吸水性的下降,使织物孔隙尺寸下降减少,蒸发速率得以提高,增强了面料的速干性,同时,由于共价交联在纤维素纤维的无定型区形成三维网络结构,将纤维素中相邻的分子链相互连接起来,从而限制了分子链间的相对位移,提高了纤维的抗折皱性,进而改善了布面的洗后外观,提高了面料品质。
传统工艺在进行凉感整理时,采用单一凉感整理剂配方,无法实现凉感、速干、滑爽、挺括、防皱性能以及耐洗性能的统一;而本发明提供的凉感整理液将凉感整理剂、交联剂、树脂、催化剂、氨基硅油复配使用,不仅能够保证最终的面料凉感持久,凉感耐洗性好,且面料手感更为滑爽、挺括、悬垂性好,而且还能使最终的织物具有抗皱、速干透气、缩水小的优点。
在上述方法中,为了交联反应充分,将所述面料在定型机上焙烘,焙烘温度为110~170℃,焙烘时间为1~5min;优选地,焙烘温度为130~150℃,焙烘时间为1~3min;
在上述方法中,优选地,所述预缩处理采用的是呢毯预缩机,所述预缩处理的温度为80~100℃,更优选为90~100℃;所述预缩处理的时间为1~3min,更优选为1.5~2min。采用预缩处理能够进一步提高面料的柔软度和滑爽度,同时改善针织面料的缩水问题。
本发明提供的技术方案至少具有如下技术效果:
1、本发明研究发现合适的原材料搭配及后整工艺对成品面料的持久凉感效果至关重要,通过对包括纱线原料混比、纤维类型,织成的坯布更平整光滑,在兼顾实际生产可行性的同时,能够确保面料最终能够获得持久凉感效果和速干抗皱性能,最终的实际效果接近理想效果;
2、本发明提供的技术方案对凉感整理液的原料组成进行了改进,在凉感整理液加入交联剂与树脂体系,并采用多元醇增溶,使得二元体系能够相容稳定。采用该凉感整理液进行凉感整理后,织物不仅持久凉感好,耐洗性好、吸湿透气性好、速干性能适中,而且还具有抗皱、缩水小的优点,做到了持久凉感、吸湿透气、速干抗皱的的统一;
3、与传统类似产品相比,本发明对面料的材料搭配及凉感整理工艺进行了研究和改进,尤其是运用棉与PCM相变纤维混纺再搭配扁平截面纤维纱线进行织造,再通过凉感与树脂整理的协同,有效延长了面料的持久凉感时长。
4、本发明提供的技术方案流程短,成本低,易加工,易推广。
附图说明
为了更清楚地说明本发明实施例中的技术方案,下面将对实施例或现有技术描述中所需要使用的附图作简单地介绍,显而易见地,下面描述中的附图仅仅是本发明的一些实施例,对于本领域普通技术人员来讲,在不付出创造性劳动性的前提下,还可以根据这些附图获得其他的附图。
图1为本发明实施例针织面料的结构简图;
图2为本发明实施例针织面料的加工流程图。
主要附图标记说明:1、凉感组织。
具体实施方式
下面详细描述本发明的实施例,实施例的示例在附图中示出,其中自始至终相同或类似的标号表示相同或类似的元件或具有相同或类似功能的元件。下面通过参考附图描述的实施例是示例性的,旨在用于解释本发明的实施例,而不能理解为对本发明的限制。
在本发明实施例的描述中,需要理解的是,术语“长度”、“宽度”、“上”、“下”、“前”、“后”、“左”、“右”、“竖直”、“水平”、“顶”、“底”“内”、“外”等指示的方位或位置关系为基于附图所示的方位或位置关系,仅是为了便于描述本发明实施例和简化描述,而不是指示或暗示所指的装置或元件必须具有特定的方位、以特定的方位构造和操作,因此不能理解为对本发明的限制。
此外,术语“第一”、“第二”仅用于描述目的,而不能理解为指示或暗示相对重要性或者隐含指明所指示的技术特征的数量。由此,限定有“第一”、“第二”的特征可以明示或者隐含地包括一个或者更多个所述特征。在本发明实施例的描述中,“多个”的含义是两个或两个以上,除非另有明确具体的限定。
实施例1:一种具有持久凉感的含棉针织面料及其制造方法,包括以下步骤:
步骤一:原料准备
准备好PCM棉质纱线与扁平截面纤维纱线。其中,PCM棉质纱线由70%棉纤维与30%PCM粘纤相变纤维赛络紧密纺制得,PCM粘纤相变纤维细度为1.2dtex,长度为38mm,扁平截面纤维纱线为70D/72F半光轻网FDY锦纶,棉质纱线与扁平截面纤维纱线重量配比为7:3。
步骤二:织造
采用寸数32寸,针数28针圆纬机将纱线织造成布,坯布的组织结构为棉盖丝平纹布,面料克重180g/m2。
步骤三:定胚
定胚车速26m/min,定胚温度为190℃,定胚超喂12%,定胚配方中抗氧化剂 2g/L。
步骤四:前处理
精炼:将坯布置于精炼工作液中,控制浴比为1:10,90℃处理30min,除油剂DMA-1112 1g/L,高效精炼剂XK 2g/L,精炼酶1128 2g/L。
漂白:控制浴比为1:10,60℃处理60min,纯碱 2g/L 30%H2O2 6g/L,稳定剂DM-1408 0.5g/L,螯合分散剂DM-1016 1g/L。
酶洗:将坯布置于酶洗工作液 (pH值为5~7)中,中性酶8000A 质量份0.15%,控制浴比为1:15,55℃处理60min,然后将坯布置于90℃水浴中处理10min灭酶活。
步骤五:染色与烘干
将经过酶洗处理的面料在溢流染色机上按设定参数完成染色,水洗、还原清洗、水洗、中和,确保出缸后面料的PH值控制在5.0~5.5之间,利于凉感整理。将染色后面料在定型机上轧水、烘干,烘干温度为150℃,烘干车速为20m/min。
步骤六:凉感整理
配制凉感整理工作液配方如表1:
表1 凉感工作液配方表
采用拉幅定型机进行凉感整理,二浸二轧,定型烘干温度为80℃,烘干时间为2min;
步骤七:焙烘
将浸轧凉感工作液烘干后的面料在定型机上焙烘,焙烘温度为130℃,焙烘时间为2min;
步骤八:预缩
采用呢毯预缩机进行预缩处理,预缩次数为1次,温度为100℃,时间为1.5min,最终得到带有凉感组织1的持久凉感成品面料。
检测:
①接触凉感性能测试,按照《GB/T 35263-2017纺织品接触瞬间凉感性能的检测和评价》进行测试,按本发明制造的面料的接触凉感测试结果如下表2所示:
表2 瞬间凉感测试结果
②持久凉感性能测试按照T/CNGA 23-2021标准进行测试,本发明制造的面料持久凉感测试结果如下表3所示:
表3 持久凉感测试结果
实施例2:一种具有持久凉感的含棉针织面料及其制造方法,包括以下步骤:
步骤一:原料准备
准备好PCM棉质纱线与扁平截面纤维纱线。其中,PCM棉质纱线由60%棉纤维与40%PCM粘纤相变纤维赛络紧密纺制得,PCM粘纤相变纤维细度为1.0dtex,长度为38mm,扁平截面纤维纱线为50D/48F全消光凉感涤纶,棉质纱线与扁平截面纤维纱线重量配比为68:32。
步骤二:织造
采用寸数34寸,针数32针圆纬机将纱线织造成布,坯布的组织结构为双面布,面料克重220g/m2。
步骤三:定胚
定胚车速24m/min,定胚温度为200℃,定胚超喂15%,定胚配方中抗氧化剂 1g/L。
步骤四:前处理
精炼:将坯布置于精炼工作液中,控制浴比为1:10,90℃处理30min,除油剂DMA-1112 1g/L,高效精炼剂XK 2g/L,精炼酶1128 1g/L。
漂白:控制浴比为1:10,60℃处理60min,纯碱 2g/L 30%H2O2 8g/L,稳定剂DM-1408 0.5g/L,螯合分散剂DM-1016 1g/L。
酶洗:将坯布置于酶洗工作液 (pH值为5~7)中,中性酶8000A 质量份0.15%,控制浴比为1:15,60℃处理45min,然后将坯布置于90℃水浴中处理10min灭酶活。
步骤五:染色
将经过酶洗处理的面料在溢流染色机上按设定参数完成染色,水洗、还原清洗、水洗、中和,确保出缸后面料的PH值控制在5.0~5.5之间,利于凉感整理。将染色后面料在定型机上轧水、烘干,烘干温度为150℃,烘干车速为25m/min。
步骤六:凉感整理
配制凉感整理工作液配方如表4:
表4 凉感工作液配方表
采用拉幅定型机进行凉感整理,采用二浸二轧方式,定型烘干温度为70℃,烘干时间为3min;
步骤七:焙烘
将浸泡凉感工作液烘干后的面料在定型机上焙烘,焙烘温度为150℃,焙烘时间为3min;
步骤八:预缩
采用呢毯预缩机进行预缩处理,预缩次数为1次,温度为100℃,时间为2min,最终得到带有凉感组织1的持久凉感成品面料。
检测:
①接触凉感性能测试,按照《GB/T 35263-2017纺织品接触瞬间凉感性能的检测和评价》进行测试,按本发明制造的面料的接触凉感测试结果如下表5所示:
表5 瞬间凉感测试结果
②持久凉感性能测试按照T/CNGA 23-2021标准进行测试,本发明制造的面料持久凉感测试结果如下表6所示:
表6 持久凉感测试结果
从上测试结果可知,采用本发明制造的含棉针织面料可以获得凉感时长≥60分钟且温度≤27℃的高档持久凉感棉质面料,本发明制造的面料可有效延长凉感时长,且吸湿透气性好,速干性能适中,兼具有抗皱防缩功能。
以上仅为本发明的较佳实施例而已,并不用于限制本发明,凡在本发明的精神和原则之内所作的任何修改、等同替换和改进等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (10)
1.一种具有持久凉感的针织面料,包括面料本体,其特征在于,所述面料本体包括由PCM棉质纱线与扁平截面纤维纱线织造而成的凉感组织(1)。
2.根据权利要求1所述的具有持久凉感的针织面料,其特征在于,所述PCM棉质纱线包括赛络混纺的PCM相变纤维和棉纤维。
3.根据权利要求2所述的具有持久凉感的针织面料,其特征在于,所述PCM相变纤维为粘胶纤维、聚酰胺纤维、聚酯纤维、聚乙烯纤维、聚乳酸纤维中的任意一种或几种。
4.根据权利要求1所述的具有持久凉感的针织面料,其特征在于,所述扁平截面纤维纱线为聚酰胺纤维、聚酯纤维、聚乙烯纤维、聚乙烯醇纤维、聚乳酸纤维、粘胶纤维中任意一种或几种。
5.根据权利要求2或3所述的具有持久凉感的针织面料,其特征在于,所述PCM相变纤维的细度为0.8~1.5dtex;长度为38mm~51mm。
6.根据权利要求1或4所述的具有持久凉感的针织面料,其特征在于,所述扁平截面纤维纱线的细度为0.8~1.5dtex。
7.一种具有持久凉感的针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
原料准备步骤:将棉纤维与PCM相变纤维作为纺纱原料,并将其纺成棉质纱线;另将所需的扁平截面纤维纱线备齐,准备织造;
织造步骤:按照排针排纱以及菱角图将纱线织造成胚布;
定胚步骤:为了保持面料的尺寸稳定性,需要对坯布进行高温定胚处理;
酶洗步骤:将所述面料浸轧酶洗工作液,对坯布进行去除毛羽光洁处理;
凉感整理步骤:将所述面料浸轧凉感工作液,其中,凉感工作液的原料组成包括有凉感整理剂、交联剂、多元醇、树脂、催化剂、氨基硅油、强力保护剂、甲醛捕捉剂、渗透剂和水,控制轧液率为30%~100%,烘干温度为50~130℃,烘干时间为1~5min;
焙烘步骤:将所述面料在定型机上焙烘,焙烘温度为110~170℃,焙烘时间为1~5min。
8.根据权利要求7所述的加工方法,其特征在于,所述棉质纱线中棉纤维含量为50%~90%;所述棉质纱线的纱支为20S/1~80S/1。
9.根据权利要求7所述的加工方法,其特征在于,所述扁平截面纤维纱线的横截面的长宽比大于等于1:3,小于等于1:8。
10.根据权利要求7所述的加工方法,其特征在于,所述定胚车速为20~30m/min,定胚温度为180~210℃,定胚过程中超喂5~30%,所述定胚配方中还包含有抗氧化剂 1~2g/L。
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