CN107964808A - 一种多层保暖针织面料及其加工方法 - Google Patents

一种多层保暖针织面料及其加工方法 Download PDF

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CN107964808A
CN107964808A CN201711395138.6A CN201711395138A CN107964808A CN 107964808 A CN107964808 A CN 107964808A CN 201711395138 A CN201711395138 A CN 201711395138A CN 107964808 A CN107964808 A CN 107964808A
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fabric
cloth
processing
layer
thermal protection
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徐磊
刘永强
梁亮
龙兵初
陈俊雁
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SHENGZHOU SHENGTAI KNITTING CO Ltd
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SHENGZHOU SHENGTAI KNITTING CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种多层保暖针织面料(Smart Thermal)的加工方法,包括以下加工步骤:“三明治”多层织造→自动开幅打卷→预缩→预定型→前处理→染色→亲水柔软整理→脱水、烘干→定型。与现有单一保暖功能产品相比,它提供了一种综合性的保暖面料,既有吸湿发热和远红外发热的自主发热素材,又在设计中加入大量保暖元素,将衣服热量锁在面料内反馈给人体,是真正意义上的全方位保暖产品。通过本方法生产的面料柔软舒适、富有弹性,同时具有远红外发热、天然抗菌、吸湿发热、蓄热保暖多种复合功能,面料厚薄适中,适合于多种保暖服装款式。

Description

一种多层保暖针织面料及其加工方法
技术领域
[0001]本发明涉及纺织领域中针织面料,尤其涉及一种多层保暖针织面料 (SmartThermal)及其加工方法。
背景技术
[0002]服装最重要的功能在于维持人体正常温度,使人体感到舒适。随着服装的时装化, 仅通过增加或降低织物的丰厚度来维持人体适宜的温度,不但麻烦而且有时也很困难。同 时,近年来气候变化,冬季寒冷天数逐渐增加,多地出现极寒天气,如何在寒冬中穿的时尚 又保暖,使保暖服装更轻更薄成为消费者对冬季服装面料的诉求。随着人们对服装高档化 要求的日益增强和对功能性整理织物要求的提高,开发新型保暖织物将有良好的发展前途 和广阔的应用前景。
[0003] 传统保暖服装如羽绒服,主要通过增加织物的丰厚度,使织物的静止空气层的空 间加大以提高保暖效果,服装臃肿单一。新型保温织物通常采用织物表面蒸镀金属、复合金 属层等方法,利用金属的镜面反射性能,抑制人体热量辐射散发,如Columbia的OMNI-HEAT 热能反射技术,但存在热传导较强、缺乏着色性、透气透湿性差、不能洗涤等缺点。目前畅销 市场的优衣库ffiATTECH保暖内衣属于吸湿发热纤维,它是纤维吸收水分时,纤维分子中的 亲水基团与水分子结合,水分液化时释放热量,但发热效果有限,保暖效果一般,同时吸湿 发热纱线多采用化学纤维混纺而成,在舒适性上不如纤维素纤维,不适宜皮肤易过敏人群 贴身穿着。
发明内容
[0004]本发明所要解决的技术问题是针对上述现状,提供一种舒适耐用、时尚保暖针织 面料及其加工方法。经此方法加工的针织面料同时具有吸湿发热、蓄热保暖、远红外发热多 种复合保暖功能。除了卓越的保暖功能之外,此产品柔软舒适、富有弹性,可用于瑜伽服、打 底衫、夹克外套、裤装等多种时尚服装款式,同时还具有天然的抗菌功能,适合冬季长时间 穿着,不会产生异味。经此方法生产的针织面料是一种全方位多功能的时尚保暖产品。
[0005] —种多层保暖针织面料,包括“三明治”织造层,其里层采用亲和肌肤的全纤维素 纤维,纱线为3〇S〜50s棉(60%) /火山岩粘胶(40%)的吸湿发热材料,外层采用隔热性能优 异,同时兼顾染色性能的30s〜50s棉(60%)/超细旦火山岩腈纶(40%),里层和外层中均加 有氨纶弹力丝,中间层采用蓬松富有弹性的5〇D〜100D阳离子化火山岩多孔涤纶长丝作连 接线,在织物中形成静止空气夹层。
[0006] —种多层保暖针织面料(SmartThermal)的加工方法,包括以下加工步骤:“三明 治”多层织造—自动开幅打卷—预缩—预定型—前处理—染色—亲水柔软整理—脱水、烘 干—定型。
[0007]所述的“三明治”多层织造,采用里、中、外三层的织物结构设计,通过拉高针织大 圆机针筒与针盘的间距,改变织针的行针轨迹,减小行针角度,从而使面料的里层和外层间 距增大,连接线纱长从常规的110〜l2〇mm/50针增长到16〇〜170mm/50针,形成“三明治”结 构,并在里层和外层中加入氨纶弹力丝使面料平整且富有弹性。
[0008]所述的自动开幅打卷,是在针织大圆机落布装置中增加自动开幅装置,通过机械 传动在落布同时完成开幅打卷。这是由于“三明治”面料较厚,弹性大,常规圆筒落布会形成 中间痕,无法通过后道拉幅去除,且圆筒打卷会使氨纶收缩不匀引起成品克重不稳定,因此 在针织大圆机中加装自动开幅打卷装置在落布下机同时完成开幅打卷。
[0009] 所述的预缩工艺采用Santashrink预缩处理系统,其主要目的是使面料充分收缩, 使大生产中每卷面料门幅克重保持一致,保证后续预定型生产稳定,同时提高面料的蓬松 性。具体过程为:将布匹浸乳清水,并控制布匹的带液率为80〜100%,控制抛干预缩机中烘 箱的温度为140〜150°C,布匹的速度12〜18m/min,针板设定门幅为坯布门幅105〜110%, 然后将布匹通过烘箱中的鼓风机鼓风抛干。
[0010] 所述的预定型工艺为:将预缩后的布匹浸轧清水,并控制布匹的带液率为80〜 90%,然后控制定型机的定型温度为195°C、车速为14〜ISm/min,门幅为预缩后门幅的115 〜120%,超喂-5%,对布匹进行预定型。
[0011] 所述的染色工艺为:采用两浴两步法,先用常规阳离子染料对腈纶和阳离子改性 涤纶进行染色,然后用常规活性染料对棉和粘胶进行染色。
[0012] 所述的亲水柔软整理工艺为:控制染色后的布匹与水的浴比为1:10〜20,往水中 加入亲水柔软剂A 2〜4g/L,在40〜50°C的温度下处理15〜30min后排水。
[0013]所述的定型工艺为:将亲水柔软剂A 10〜20g/L和亲水柔软剂B 30〜60g/L均匀混 合形成定型整理液,然后将面料浸轧在定型整理液中,并控制布匹的带液率为60〜80%,然 后控制定型机的定型温度为140〜160°C、车速为14〜18m/min,对布匹进行定型。
[00M]与现有技术相比,本发明提供了一种全方位多功能时尚保暖产品及其加工方法。 从原料到加工工艺都经过精心筛选和设计,成品面料柔软舒适、富有弹性,同时具有远红外 发热、天然抗菌、吸湿发热、蓄热保暖多种复合功能,适合于多种保暖服装款式:
[0015] 1、远红外发热、天然抗菌
[0016]本发明采用火山岩原料科技,模拟火山岩成分中的天然矿石及金属氧化物,制成 发热素材植入纤维内(粘胶、涤纶、腈纶),使纤维可以在吸收人体的热量后,在一定温度下 向人体发射远红外线,从而促进血液循环,使人体产生温热效应;同时金属氧化物中的氧化 锌,具有卓越的天然抗菌功能,使面料天然抗菌。
[0017] 2、吸湿发热
[0018]在“三明治”结构中,里层采用亲和肌肤的全纤维素纤维,使面料具有吸湿发热功 能。人体即使不运动也有大量的浅汗蒸发,火山岩粘胶纤维分子中的亲水基团与汽态水结 合后将水分子液化,形成放热过程,从而使面料温度升高。
[0019] 3、蓄热保暖
[0020] (1)、火山岩纤维内含有大量类似火山岩蜂窝石的微多孔结构,能够阻隔人体热量 传导散失,从而达到蓄热保暖的目的。
[0021] (2)、“三明治”结构中,中间层采用蓬松的火山岩多孔涤纶长丝作连接线,在织物 中形成静止空气夹层;同时里层和外层间距较常规双层布增大1〜2mm,即在增加面料厚度 的同时,并没有增加面料重量,使面料柔软舒适,类似羽绒服,在夹层中增加了大量静止空 气,隔热保暖性能卓越。
[0022] (3)、织造时在里层和外层中加入氨纶弹力丝使面料平整且富有弹性,使面料致密 细腻,锁住中间层的静止空气,提升蓄热保暖效果;同时避免中间层长丝与里外层短纤纱因 收缩差异过大而引起面料洗后容易起皱起泡的问题。 / <
[0023] (4)、“三明治’’结构中,外层采用隔热性能优异的超细旦火山岩腈纶,将热量锁在 面料内,与棉纤维按一定混纺,保证面料吸湿快干性能的同时解决了表面起毛起球问题,可 用于休闲运动服装。
[0024]本发明是一个综合性保暖产品,既有吸湿发热和远红外发热的自主发热素材,又 在设^中加入大量保暖元素,将衣服热量锁在面料内反馈给人体,是真正意义上的全方位 保暖产品。同时通过自动开幅打卷和预缩解决了大生产中易产生的疵点问题和提高了产品 稳定性,并附加亲水柔软整理,使“三明治”服装穿着舒适不贴身。
[0025]本发明中所使用的亲水柔软剂A和亲水柔软剂B的生产厂家、成分和性能介绍如 下:
[0026]亲水柔软剂A:采用华大浩宏化工有限公司生产的TWSOFT WS-101D,它是一种环保 的超级纳米材料产品,具有极高的活力,用量低但亲水柔软效果好。可用于漂白和浅色织物 的亲水柔软整理,无黄变,满足全色系加工要求。
[0027]亲水柔软剂B:采用华大浩宏化工有限公司生产的TWSOFT 8613Y,它是新一代聚醚 改性有机硅柔软剂。赋予织物优异的亲水性及平滑、柔软、悬垂效果,可用于漂白织物,无黄 变,满足全色系加工要求。经其定型整理的面料具有手感软滑细腻、吸湿透气、穿着舒适的 特点。
具体实施方式
[0028]以下结合实施例对本发明作进一步详细描述。
[0029] 实例一:将30s棉(60%) /火山岩粘胶(40%)、30s棉(60%) /超细旦火山岩腈纶 (40%)、100D/72F阳离子化火山岩涤纶长丝、40D氨纶加工成多层保暖布的具体过程为: [0030] ⑴、按里层30s棉(60%) /火山岩粘胶(40%)、外层30s棉(60%) /超细旦火山岩腈 纶(40%)、连接线100D/96F阳离子化火山岩涤纶长丝,正反面满模加40D氨纶,根据“三明 治”结构织法加工成坯布,同时在织造落布时完成开幅打卷;
[0031] (2)、将“三明治”坯布通过Santashrink预缩处理系统浸轧清水,并控制布匹的带 液率为80%,控制抛干预缩机中烘箱的温度为150。(:,布匹的速度12m/min,针板设定门幅为 坯布门幅110 %,然后将布匹通过烘箱中的鼓风机鼓风抛千;
[0032] (3)、将预缩后的布匹浸乳清水,并控制布匹的带液率为80%,然后控制定型机的 定型温度为195。(:、车速为14m/min,门幅为预缩后门幅的120 %,超喂-5%,对布匹进行预定 型;
[0033] (4)、常规前处理后,采用两浴两步法,先用常规阳离子染料对腈纶和阳离子改性 涤纶进行染色,然后用常规活性染料对棉和粘胶进行染色;
[0034] (5)、控制染色后的布匹与水的浴比为1:20,往水中加入亲水柔软剂八知凡,在50 °C的温度下处理30min后排水;
[0035] ⑹、将布匹脱水、烘干;
[0036] ⑺、最后将亲水柔软剂A 20g/L和亲水柔软剂B 60g/L均匀混合形成定型整理液, 然后将面料浸乳在定型整理液中,并控制布匹的带液率为60%,然后控制定型机的定型温 度为l6〇°C、车速为14m/min,对布匹进行定型。得到软滑细腻、吸湿透气、穿着舒适的多层保 暖针织面料。
[0037]实例二:将50s棉(60%) /火山岩粘胶(40%)、50s棉(60%) /超细旦火山岩腈纶 (40%)、50D/36F阳离子化火山岩涤纶长丝、20D氨纶加工成多层保暖布的具体过程为:
[0038] (1)、按里层50s棉(60%) /火山岩粘胶(40%)、外层50s棉(60%) /超细旦火山岩腈 纶(40%)、连接线50D/36F阳离子化火山岩涤纶长丝,正反面满模加20D氨纶,根据“三明治” 结构织法加工成坯布,同时在织造落布时完成开幅打卷;
[0039] (2)、将“三明治”坯布通过Santashrink预缩处理系统浸轧清水,并控制布匹的带 液率为90%,控制抛干预缩机中烘箱的温度为140°C,布匹的速度ISm/min,针板设定门幅为 坯布门幅105%,然后将布匹通过烘箱中的鼓风机鼓风抛干;
[0040] (3)、将预缩后的布匹浸乳清水,并控制布匹的带液率为90%,然后控制定型机的 定型温度为195。(:、车速为ISm/min,门幅为预缩后门幅的II5%,超喂_5%,对布匹进行预定 型; _
[0041] (4)、常规前处理后,采用两浴两步法,先用常规阳离子染料对腈纶和阳离子改性 涤纶进行染色,然后用常规活性染料对棉和粘胶进行染色;
[0042] ⑸、控制染色后的布匹与水的浴比为1:10,往水中加入亲水柔软剂六3g/L,在40 °C的温度下处理20min后排水;
[0043] ⑹、将布匹脱水、烘干; 、 、一 _
[0044] (7)、最后将亲水柔软剂A 15g/L和亲水柔软剂B 40g/L均匀混合形成定型整,理液, 然后将面料浸乳在定型整理液中,并控制布匹的带液率为80%,然后控制定型机的定型温 度为150。(:、车速为18m/min,对布匹进行定型。得到软滑细腻、吸湿透气、穿着舒适的多层保 暖针织面料。

Claims (10)

1. 一种多层保暖针织面料,其特征在于,包括“三明治”织造层,里层采用3〇s〜50s棉 (60%) /火山岩粘胶(40%)的混纺纤维,外层采用30s〜50s棉(60%) /超细旦火山岩腈纶 (40%)的混纺纤维,里层和外层中均加有氨纶弹力丝,中间层采用50D〜100D阳离子化火山 岩多孔涤纶长丝作连接线在织物中形成静止空气夹层。
2.权利要求1所述的多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,包括以下步骤:“三明治”多层织造 —自动开幅打卷—预缩—预定型—前处理—染色—亲水柔软整理—脱水、烘干—定型。
3.如权利要求2所述的一种多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,所述的“三明 治”多层织造,采用里、中、外三层的织物结构设计,通过拉高针织大圆机针筒与针盘的间 距,改变织针的行针轨迹,减小行针角度,从而使面料的里层和外层间距增大,连接线纱长 从常规的110〜120mm/50针增长到160〜170mm/50针,形成“三明治”结构,并在里层和外层 中加入氨纶弹力丝。
4.如权利要求2所述的一种多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,所述的自动开 幅打卷是:在针织大圆机落布装置中增加自动开幅装置,通过机械传动在落布同时完成开 幅打卷。
5. 如权利要求2所述的一种多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,所述的预缩工 艺为:将布匹浸乳清水,并控制布匹的带液率为80〜100%,控制抛干预缩机中烘箱的温度 为140〜150°C,布匹的速度12〜18m/min,针板设定门幅为坯布门幅105〜110%,然后将布 匹通过烘箱中的鼓风机鼓风抛干。
6. 如权利要求2所述的一种多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,所述的预定型 工艺为:将预缩后的布匹浸轧清水,并控制布匹的带液率为80〜90%,然后控制定型机的定 型温度为195°C、车速为14〜18m/min,门幅为预缩后门幅的115〜120%,超喂-5%,对布匹 进行预定型。
7. 如权利要求2所述的一种多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,所述的染色工 艺为:采用两浴两步法,先用常规阳离子染料对腈纶和阳离子改性涤纶进行染色,然后用常 规活性染料对棉和粘胶进行染色。
8. 如权利要求2所述的一种多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,所述的亲水柔 软整理工艺为:控制染色后的布匹与水的浴比为1:10〜20,往水中加入亲水柔软剂A2〜4g/ L,在40〜50°C的温度下处理15〜30min后排水。
9. 如权利要求2所述的一种多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,所述的定型工 艺为:将亲水柔软剂A 10〜20g/L和亲水柔软剂B 30〜60g/L均匀混合形成定型整理液,然 后将面料浸轧在定型整理液中,并控制布匹的带液率为60〜80%,然后控制定型机的定型 温度为140〜160°C、车速为14〜18米/min,对布匹进行定型。
10. 如权利要求8或9所述的一种多层保暖针织面料的加工方法,其特征在于,亲水柔软 剂A采用华大浩宏化工有限公司生产的TWSOFT WS-101D,亲水柔软剂B采用华大浩宏化工有 限公司生产的TWSOFT 8613Y。
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CN110424078A (zh) * 2019-07-01 2019-11-08 绍兴墨织韵纺织科技有限公司 一种吸光发热混纺纱线
CN110359282A (zh) * 2019-07-02 2019-10-22 东莞德永佳纺织制衣有限公司 一种粘胶类面料的芯吸功能改善方法
CN110359282B (zh) * 2019-07-02 2021-08-31 东莞德永佳纺织制衣有限公司 一种粘胶类面料的芯吸功能改善方法
CN110846796A (zh) * 2019-10-31 2020-02-28 常州旭荣针织印染有限公司 涤/氨三明治抗菌面料及其染整方法

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