CN108049218B - 一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法 - Google Patents

一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法 Download PDF

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CN108049218B
CN108049218B CN201711483265.1A CN201711483265A CN108049218B CN 108049218 B CN108049218 B CN 108049218B CN 201711483265 A CN201711483265 A CN 201711483265A CN 108049218 B CN108049218 B CN 108049218B
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章富杰
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Fujian Deao Knitting Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，该生产方法包括依次的针织胚布、精练、染色、整理、烘干和定形，通过对针织胚布、精练、染色步骤进行改进，在低于110℃染色时能兼顾染色深度和牢度。

Description

一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法。
背景技术
醋酯纤维具有真丝般的光泽和光滑柔软的手感，用其和涤纶织成的高弹面料自然华贵、舒适透气，而且尺寸稳定性好。
涤纶纤维正常染色温度在130～135℃，温度偏低会使染色深度和染色牢度大大下降。而醋酯纤维纱线供应商指定染色温度不能超过110℃，温度过高会使醋酯纤维手感发硬，涤纶与醋酯混纺纤维一浴染色温度就定在110℃。涤纶和醋酯纤维一浴染色最大的难点是染色温度不能太高，不能超过110℃，给染色深度和牢度的提高带来很大困难。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料，在低于110℃染色时能兼顾染色深度和牢度。
本发明的上述技术目的是通过以下技术方案得以实现的：
一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，包括如下步骤：
（1）针织胚布
取阳涤复合丝75~80质量份和醋酸纤维20~25质量份，纬编针织成胚布；
（2）精练
在室温下将胚布加至精练液中，浴比为1:12~14；以2℃/min升温至94~96℃，保温20~24min；以4℃/min降至35~38℃，取胚布置于35~38℃的清水中，用1wt%的醋酸水溶液调节pH至中性；取胚布在35~38℃下水洗2~3次；
精练液的配方为：EDTA 0.05~0.07g/l、NaOH 2.1~2.3g/l、十二烷基苯磺酸钠2.0~2.5g/l、PEO-PPO-PEO三嵌段共聚物1.0~1.2g/l和乙醇5.0~6.0g/l，余量为水；
（3）染色
在室温下配制染液，将胚布放入初始染液中，浸泡5~8min，浴比为1:3.5~4.0；以2℃/min升温至60~63℃并保温15~18min，保温过程中保持3.5~3.7×104赫兹的超声；向初始染液中加入Na2CO3和聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，Na2CO3和聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的添加量分别为初始染液的0.05~0.07wt%和0.15~0.18wt%，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至75~78℃并保温30~35min，保温过程中保持4.0~4.2×104赫兹的超声；向染液中加入聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐和甘油，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐和甘油的添加量分别为初始染液的0.09~0.11wt%和0.15~0.18wt%，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至90~93℃并保温9~11min，保温过程中保持4.0~4.2×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至35~38℃，调节pH至中性，在35~38℃下多次水洗；
初始染液的配方为：分散染料120~128g/l、丙氨酸10~12g/l、聚丙烯酸 6~9g/l、分散剂NNO 13~15g/l，乙醇40~43g/l，余量为水；分散染料选用德司达Dianix AC-E系列中的Yellow AC-Enew、Red ACE 01或Blue AC-E中的一种；
（4）整理、100~105℃烘干、150~155℃下定形。
进一步优选为：精练液中，PEO-PPO-PEO三嵌段共聚物选用P123型。
进一步优选为：步骤（3）中，聚丙烯酸的重均分子量为7500~8000。
进一步优选为：步骤（3）中，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的重均分子量为17000~18000。
进一步优选为：所述整理为抗紫外整理，其过程为：在室温下配制整理液，将染色后的胚布放入整理液中，浴比为1:2.1~2.3；以2℃/min升温至75~77℃并保温28~32min，保温过程中保持3.5~3.7×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至35~38℃，调节pH至中性，在35~38℃下多次水洗；
整理液的配方为：纳米二氧化钛15~17g/l、酪氨酸10~12g/l、重均分子量为17000~18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐 0.10~0.12g/l、乙醇7~9g/l，余量为水。
进一步优选为：包括如下步骤：
（1）针织胚布
取阳涤复合丝77质量份和醋酸纤维23质量份，纬编针织成胚布；
（2）精练
在室温下将胚布加至精练液中，浴比为1:13；以2℃/min升温至95℃，保温23min；以4℃/min降至37℃，取胚布置于37℃的清水中，用1wt%的醋酸水溶液调节pH至中性；取胚布在37℃下水洗2~3次；
精练液的配方为：EDTA 0.06g/l、NaOH 2.2g/l、十二烷基苯磺酸钠2.4g/l、P123型的PEO-PPO-PEO三嵌段共聚物1.1g/l和乙醇5.5g/l，余量为水；
（3）染色
在室温下配制染液，将胚布放入初始染液中，浸泡6min，浴比为1:3.7；以2℃/min升温至62℃并保温16min，保温过程中保持3.6×104赫兹的超声；向初始染液中加入Na2CO3和重均分子量为17000~18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，Na2CO3和聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的添加量分别为初始染液的0.06wt%和0.16wt%，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至76℃并保温33min，保温过程中保持4.1×104赫兹的超声；向染液中加入甘油和重均分子量为17000~18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐和甘油的添加量分别为初始染液的0.10wt%和0.16wt%，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至92℃并保温10min，保温过程中保持4.1×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至37℃，调节pH至中性，在37℃下多次水洗；
初始染液的配方为：分散染料125g/l、丙氨酸11g/l、重均分子量为7500~8000的聚丙烯酸 8g/l、分散剂NNO 14g/l、乙醇42g/l，余量为水；分散染料选用德司达Dianix AC-E系列中的Yellow AC-Enew、Red ACE 01或Blue AC-E中的一种；
（4）整理、100~105℃烘干、150~155℃下定形；
所述整理为抗紫外整理，其过程为：在室温下配制整理液，将染色后的胚布放入整理液中，浴比为1:2.2；以2℃/min升温至76℃并保温30min，保温过程中保持3.6×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至37℃，调节pH至中性，在37℃下多次水洗；
整理液的配方为：纳米二氧化钛16g/l、酪氨酸11g/l、重均分子量为17000~18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐 0.10~0.11g/l、乙醇8g/l，余量为水。
综上所述，本发明具有以下有益效果：
本申请先通过精练将织物中的杂质去除，减少油脂、纤维素等杂质对染色过程中的影响；通过改进染色工艺以及染色工艺过程中添加的物质，为染色过程中染料和织物的结合提供催化剂聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，降低反应所需的能力，将染色温度从现有的至少130℃下降至90~93℃，大大的降低了染色温度，也适于醋酸纤维这类低于100℃染色的纤维与涤纶的混纺；同时聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐和Na2CO3的结合以及甘油和聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的结合可推动染料和织物的结合向正反应方向推动，大大的加快染色速度，其中后者的推动效果更佳；在染色过程中，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐产生的电荷作用在染液中还能增强织物与染料的结合力，大大的提高色牢度，且具有较强的稳定性，明显优于现有技术；在本申请的生产方法下，采用本申请的紫外整理又具有适配性，少量物质即可达到现有技术的抗紫外水平。
具体实施方式
本具体实施例仅仅是对本发明的解释，其并不是对本发明的限制，本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改，但只要在本发明的保护范围内都受到专利法的保护。
本申请的聚合物均购自sigma-aldrich，本申请的室温指的是20~30℃。
实施例1：一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，包括如下步骤：
（1）针织胚布
取阳涤复合丝77质量份和醋酸纤维23质量份，纬编针织成胚布；
（2）精练
在室温下将胚布加至精练液中，浴比为1:13；以2℃/min升温至95℃，保温23min；以4℃/min降至37℃，取胚布置于37℃的清水中，用1wt%的醋酸水溶液调节pH至中性；取胚布在37℃下水洗2~3次；
精练液的配方为：EDTA 0.06g/l、NaOH 2.2g/l、十二烷基苯磺酸钠2.4g/l、P123型的PEO-PPO-PEO三嵌段共聚物1.1g/l和乙醇5.5g/l，余量为水；
（3）染色
在室温下配制染液，将胚布放入初始染液中，浸泡6min，浴比为1:3.7；以2℃/min升温至62℃并保温16min，保温过程中保持3.6×104赫兹的超声；向初始染液中加入Na2CO3和重均分子量为17000~18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，Na2CO3和聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的添加量分别为初始染液的0.06wt%和0.16wt%，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至76℃并保温33min，保温过程中保持4.1×104赫兹的超声；向染液中加入甘油和重均分子量为17000~18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐和甘油的添加量分别为初始染液的0.10wt%和0.16wt%，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至92℃并保温10min，保温过程中保持4.1×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至37℃，调节pH至中性，在37℃下多次水洗；染料的上染率高达91%，实现清洁生产；
初始染液的配方为：分散染料125g/l、丙氨酸11g/l、重均分子量为7500~8000的聚丙烯酸 8g/l、分散剂NNO 14g/l、乙醇42g/l，余量为水；分散染料选用德司达Dianix AC-E系列中的Yellow AC-Enew；
（4）整理、100~105℃烘干、150~155℃下定形；
整理为抗紫外整理，其过程为：在室温下配制整理液，将染色后的胚布放入整理液中，浴比为1:2.2；以2℃/min升温至76℃并保温30min，保温过程中保持3.6×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至37℃，调节pH至中性，在37℃下多次水洗；
整理液的配方为：纳米二氧化钛16g/l、酪氨酸11g/l、重均分子量为17000~18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐 0.10~0.11g/l、乙醇8g/l，余量为水。
实施例2：一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，与实施例1的不同之处在于，分散染料选用德司达Dianix AC-E系列中的Red ACE 01。
实施例3：一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，与实施例1的不同之处在于，分散染料选用德司达Dianix AC-E系列中的Blue AC-E。
实施例4：一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，与实施例1的不同之处在于，精练液中，PEO-PPO-PEO三嵌段共聚物选用F127型。
实施例5：步骤（3）中，聚丙烯酸的重均分子量为3000~3500。
实施例6：步骤（3）中，聚丙烯酸的重均分子量为11000~12000。
实施例7：步骤（3）中，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的重均分子量为12000~13000。
实施例8：步骤（3）中，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的重均分子量为22000~23000。
性能表征
1、对照品制备
对照品1：参照CN105648788A的实施例1制备，一种全涤纶分散染料染色方法，包括以下步骤：1）胚布进入染色机后，在第一道水中加入1.2g/L的市售去油剂和分散染料（选用德司达Dianix AC-E系列中的Yellow AC-Enew），升温至130℃，染色30分钟；2）降温至80℃，不放水，加入1.2g/L的烧碱和保险粉保温20分钟，不放水；3）加入1.2g/L的冰醋酸，8分钟后放水；4）加入第二道水，水洗8分钟。
对照品2：一种面料的染色方法，与对照品1不同的是，原料采用醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料，同时将最高温度改为100℃。
2、染色深度测试
染色深度以色差作为评判标准，取厂家提供的已染色的纯涤纶样作为标准品进行对照，采用目测评定方法，按照《染色牢度褪色样卡》对照评定等级。测试结果如表1所示。每个样品平行测试5次，取平均值。
表1显示：在低于100℃下染色的实施例1-8基本无色差，与130℃下染色得到的对照品1的染色深度相当。
表1 染色深度测试
3、色牢度测试
分别参照GB/T 3920-2008、GB/T 3921-(3)-1997和GB/T 3922-1995测试样品的耐摩擦色牢度、耐皂洗色牢度以及耐汗渍色牢度，测试结果如表2所示。每个样品平行测试5次，取平均值。
表2显示：在低于100℃下染色的实施例1-8的耐摩擦色牢度、耐皂洗色牢度以及耐汗渍色牢度均为5级，与130℃下染色得到的对照品1的色牢度相当。
表2 色牢度测试（单位：级）
4、稳定性测试
将测试样品分暴露在0℃/20%RH和40℃/75%RH下100d，测试样品的耐摩擦色牢度、耐皂洗色牢度以及耐汗渍色牢度，测试结果如表3和4所示。每个样品平行测试5次，取平均值。
表3显示，在0℃/20%RH和40℃/75%RH下长期放置后，相比对照品2，对照品1和实施例1-8的色牢度下降程度低，特别是实施例1-3基本无变化，仍能保持较高的色牢度。
表3 0℃/20%RH下稳定性测试（单位：级）
表4 40℃/75%RH下稳定性测试（单位：级）

Claims (6)

1.一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
(1)针织胚布
取阳涤复合丝75～80质量份和醋酸纤维20～25质量份，纬编针织成胚布；
(2)精练
在室温下将胚布加至精练液中，浴比为1:12～14；以2℃/min升温至94～96℃，保温20～24min；以4℃/min降至35～38℃，取胚布置于35～38℃的清水中，用1wt％的醋酸水溶液调节pH至中性；取胚布在35～38℃下水洗2～3次；
精练液的配方为：EDTA 0.05～0.07g/l、NaOH 2.1～2.3g/l、十二烷基苯磺酸钠2.0～2.5g/l、PEO-PPO-PEO三嵌段共聚物1.0～1.2g/l和乙醇5.0～6.0g/l，余量为水；
(3)染色
在室温下配制染液，将胚布放入初始染液中，浸泡5～8min，浴比为1:3.5～4.0；以2℃/min升温至60～63℃并保温15～18min，保温过程中保持3.5～3.7×104赫兹的超声；向初始染液中加入Na2CO3和聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，Na2CO3和聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的添加量分别为初始染液的0.05～0.07wt％和0.15～0.18wt％，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至75～78℃并保温30～35min，保温过程中保持4.0～4.2×104赫兹的超声；向染液中加入聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐和甘油，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐和甘油的添加量分别为初始染液的0.09～0.11wt％和0.15～0.18wt％，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至90～93℃并保温9～11min，保温过程中保持4.0～4.2×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至35～38℃，调节pH至中性，在35～38℃下多次水洗；
初始染液的配方为：分散染料120～128g/l、丙氨酸10～12g/l、聚丙烯酸6～9g/l、分散剂NNO 13～15g/l、乙醇40～43g/l，余量为水；分散染料选用德司达Dianix AC-E系列中的Yellow AC-Enew、Red ACE 01或Blue AC-E中的一种；
(4)整理、100～105℃烘干、150～155℃下定形。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，其特征在于，精练液中，PEO-PPO-PEO三嵌段共聚物选用P123型。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，其特征在于，步骤(3)中，聚丙烯酸的重均分子量为7500～8000。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，其特征在于，步骤(3)中，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的重均分子量为17000～18000。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述整理为抗紫外整理，其过程为：在室温下配制整理液，将染色后的胚布放入整理液中，浴比为1:2.1～2.3；以2℃/min升温至75～77℃并保温28～32min，保温过程中保持3.5～3.7×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至35～38℃，调节pH至中性，在35～38℃下多次水洗；
整理液的配方为：纳米二氧化钛15～17g/l、酪氨酸10～12g/l、重均分子量为17000～18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐0.10～0.12g/l、乙醇7～9g/l，余量为水。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种醋酸纤维与阳涤复合丝交织面料的生产方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
(1)针织胚布
取阳涤复合丝77质量份和醋酸纤维23质量份，纬编针织成胚布；
(2)精练
在室温下将胚布加至精练液中，浴比为1:13；以2℃/min升温至95℃，保温23min；以4℃/min降至37℃，取胚布置于37℃的清水中，用1wt％的醋酸水溶液调节pH至中性；取胚布在37℃下水洗2～3次；
精练液的配方为：EDTA 0.06g/l、NaOH 2.2g/l、十二烷基苯磺酸钠2.4g/l、P123型的PEO-PPO-PEO三嵌段共聚物1.1g/l和乙醇5.5g/l，余量为水；
(3)染色
在室温下配制染液，将胚布放入初始染液中，浸泡6min，浴比为1:3.7；以2℃/min升温至62℃并保温16min，保温过程中保持3.6×104赫兹的超声；向初始染液中加入Na2CO3和重均分子量为17000～18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，Na2CO3和聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐的添加量分别为初始染液的0.06wt％和0.16wt％，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至76℃并保温33min，保温过程中保持4.1×104赫兹的超声；向染液中加入甘油和重均分子量为17000～18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐，聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐和甘油的添加量分别为初始染液的0.10wt％和0.16wt％，搅拌混合均匀，以2℃/min升温至92℃并保温10min，保温过程中保持4.1×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至37℃，调节pH至中性，在37℃下多次水洗；
初始染液的配方为：分散染料125g/l、丙氨酸11g/l、重均分子量为7500～8000的聚丙烯酸8g/l、分散剂NNO 14g/l、乙醇42g/l，余量为水；分散染料选用德司达Dianix AC-E系列中的Yellow AC-Enew、Red ACE 01或Blue AC-E中的一种；
(4)整理、100～105℃烘干、150～155℃下定形；
所述整理为抗紫外整理，其过程为：在室温下配制整理液，将染色后的胚布放入整理液中，浴比为1:2.2；以2℃/min升温至76℃并保温30min，保温过程中保持3.6×104赫兹的超声；以5℃/min降温至37℃，调节pH至中性，在37℃下多次水洗；
整理液的配方为：纳米二氧化钛16g/l、酪氨酸11g/l、重均分子量为17000～18000的聚烯丙基胺盐酸盐0.10～0.11g/l、乙醇8g/l，余量为水。
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