WO2019227765A1 - 一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法 - Google Patents

一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019227765A1
WO2019227765A1 PCT/CN2018/104665 CN2018104665W WO2019227765A1 WO 2019227765 A1 WO2019227765 A1 WO 2019227765A1 CN 2018104665 W CN2018104665 W CN 2018104665W WO 2019227765 A1 WO2019227765 A1 WO 2019227765A1
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Prior art keywords
dyeing
garment
fruit
natural
cloth
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PCT/CN2018/104665
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English (en)
French (fr)
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何炽斌
何欣洋
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He Chibin
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/34—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using natural dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8219—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of clothing, in particular to a production method for dyeing garments by using fruit natural dyes.
  • Colored dyed garments can be produced through yarn dyeing, cloth dyeing and garment dyeing.
  • garment dyeing is traditionally produced by chemical dyeing. This chemical dyeing method pollutes the environment and is not good for consumers. Dress well. Some technicians have used natural dyes to carry out research and production of garment dyeing without using chemical additives at all. As a result, the color fastness is not up to standard, and dyed flowers appear.
  • Each garment is between the garments and between the tanks.
  • There are problems such as severe chromatic aberration. The main reasons for these problems are the lack of natural dyes on cloth fibers and the poor leveling of dyeing without the use of chemical auxiliaries.
  • the traditional garment dyeing equipment has a small capacity and a low degree of process control automation. Because of these reasons, there is currently no method for garment dyeing production that can use natural dyes to dye garments without using chemical additives at all, and which can reach the standard.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a production method for dyeing garments using natural fruit dyes.
  • the dyeing process does not add any chemical aids and dyes to complete the dyeing of garments, and there is no sewage discharge.
  • the fruit dyeing process is used to replace traditional chemical dyed garments.
  • Dyeing method can improve the quality of natural dyed garment dyeing products, and solve the existing problems of poor color fastness of existing natural dyed garment dyeing, dyed flowers, and severe color differences between each garment and between tanks and tanks. Quality issues.
  • the technical solution of the present invention selecting fruits with high pigment content as raw materials for natural dyeing, without adding any chemical aids and dyes, to achieve the pure naturalness of the garment dyeing process; changing the traditional garment dyeing process, and then washing and then washing
  • the method of dehydration and drying is to choose the technical solution of drying and drying the garment after washing and then washing and dehydrating for the second time.
  • the purpose of achieving the quality of the color fastness of the garment after dyeing is achieved; by choosing dyeing
  • the dyeing tank with a larger diameter of the channel nozzle is used for dyeing garments.
  • the dyeing process is used to dye garments in series to achieve uniform dyeing of the garments, reducing the color difference of the tank, and improving the dimensional stability of the garment.
  • Adopting the above technical solution achieves the following technical effects: solves the pure naturalness of the garment dyeing process, can provide consumers with natural and healthy garment products, solves the problem of the color fastness of natural dyed garments, and greatly reduces the traditional garment dyeing process.
  • the problems of color flower, color difference, cylinder difference and dimensional stability of clothing have greatly improved the quality level of natural dyed garment dyeing products.
  • a production method for dyeing garments using natural fruit dyes which specifically includes the following steps: S1. Fruit selection, fruit washing, color liquid extraction; S2. Grey fabric pre-treatment; S3. White semi-finished garment sewing; S4. S5. Wash clothes before dyeing; S6. Garment dyeing of large-diameter tube mouth cylinder diameter; S7. Dehydration and drying after dyeing; S8. Washing and hand finishing; S9. Second dehydration and drying; S10. Ironing, Finished clothing after dyeing to obtain finished garments.
  • the fruit selection, fruit washing, and color liquid extraction described in step S1 selecting various pigment-rich fruits grown in nature as dyes for garment dyeing, and the fruits with high pigment content specifically refer to pitaya, strawberry, wild mountain Fruit, pomegranate, coconut and mangosteen.
  • the flesh of pitaya, strawberry, wild mangosteen or the peel of pomegranate, coconut, and mangosteen is specifically applied.
  • the natural dye solution is obtained by extraction without adding any chemical additives. And dyes (including mordants) to ensure the natural environmental protection of garment dyeing in the next step.
  • the pre-treatment of the grey fabric described in step S2 selecting a pre-treatment process with little or no chemical pollution, including but not limited to the use of high-efficiency refining agents, extending the refining time by 30% to 100%, and improving
  • the refining temperature is in the range of 90 to 110 ° C, and the grey fabric is pretreated, or the enzyme treatment process is used, the enzyme is processed by the padding pretreatment, and then the reactor is cooled and washed, and the grey fabric is pretreated.
  • the sewing process of the white semi-finished garment described in step S3 after obtaining the white fabric through the pre-processing of step S2, the sewing process of the white semi-finished garment is carried out.
  • this technical solution adopts the following method: cut about 1.5m * 1.5m from the white cloth obtained in the pre-processing of step S2, and draw a 1m * 1m Square, then choose to put this cloth like one of the clothes in the garment dyeing tank of step S6 below, according to the requirements of the corresponding garment dyeing process, tie this cloth like a clothes, and then measure 1m * 1m square
  • This technical solution overcomes the traditional method of determining shrinkage with reference to national standards. To measure the shrinkage rate, and cause the problem that the size of the garment does not meet the quality requirements due to the deviation of the shrinkage rate measurement. In the method for determining the shrinkage rate specified in the national standard, only a short-time water wash of about 30 minutes is performed with a water washer, which is too different from the actual garment dyeing production conditions for a few hours, plus the differences in other production conditions. There must be deviations in shrinkage.
  • This technical solution simulates a formal garment dyeing process to obtain the accurate dyeing shrinkage of the cloth, and then cuts the cloth to obtain a garment piece of the correct size, and then performs normal garment sewing processing to provide dimensional stability of the garment dyed clothing.
  • the sewing heads are connected in series in step S4: this technical scheme selects a sewing head tandem method in which the impact force of air flow, liquid flow or water flow does not directly impact on the garment during the dyeing process.
  • This technical solution requires the clothes to be tiled first. , Then in series, and then folded with mesh cloth to wrap the clothes in the inner layer to achieve the purpose of protecting the clothes from being directly stretched by the impact of gas-liquid flow, and to meet the clothes with large capacity in the dyeing tank and high degree of process control automation The process requirements of dyeing tanks for garment dyeing. First prepare a mesh fabric that cannot be stretched in the vertical direction as a protective covering to withstand the impact of air, liquid or water during dyeing.
  • the width of this protective cloth is twice the width of the shirt or trousers when the clothes need to be tiled, and the length is the same as the total length of the clothes after the tandem. Long or pants length * total number of pieces of dyed clothes required); after this protective cloth is folded with the middle line of the length direction as the folding line, the protective cloth can be connected in series and fixed on the side of the protective cloth. Surround it and form protection.
  • step S4 under the protection of the cloth, the clothes enter the air-flow dyeing cylinder or air overflow dyeing cylinder for dyeing the cloth with the protective cloth as the dyed cloth, and the traditional cloth washing process is performed as described in step S5. Washing and washing clothes before dyeing can further improve the wool effect and permeability of the cloth, and improve the uniformity and color fastness of natural dyeing of garments.
  • the garment dyeing of the large channel nozzle cylinder diameter described in step S6 the garment dyeing equipment selected in this technical solution has a larger dyeing channel nozzle: the diameter of the nozzle ranges from 100 to 500 mm, and the larger the diameter of the dyeing channel nozzle During the dyeing process, the smaller the force of the clothes being squeezed by the pipe when walking through the channel nozzle, the less the opportunity for the clothes to entangle, and the less the chance for the dyed garments to be colored; the garment dyeing cylinder with a larger diameter It is a traditional cloth dyeing cylinder, including but not limited to the airflow dyeing cylinder and air overflow dyeing cylinder with a larger diameter of the channel nozzle cylinder; this technical solution uses a mature cloth dyeing process, and the air cylinder dyeing machine and air overflow dyeing cylinder that choose to dye the cloth are used Garment dyeing cylinder, which greatly avoids the entanglement of clothes caused by the traditional drum washing machine cylinder for garment dyeing, and because of the small volume of
  • the dehydration and drying after dyeing described in step S7 in this technical solution, instead of washing immediately after dyeing, the solution is dehydrated, dried, and then washed in step S8.
  • the purpose is to achieve the natural color fixing by drying first.
  • the drying temperature is in the range of 80-170 ° C, in order to solve the problem that the color fastness of the dyed garment can meet the quality standard.
  • the water washing and hand finishing as described in step S8 the following technical process is selected for water washing and hand finishing: washing at room temperature for 10 to 50 minutes, then washing at 50 to 70 ° C for 10 to 50 minutes, and finally using normal temperature Wash with fresh water for 10-50 minutes; after washing, add an appropriate amount of non-ionic, non-ferrous metal ions and other hydrophilic softeners to finish the touch.
  • step S8 the second dehydration and drying described in step S9, and the post-processing after ironing and dyeing of the clothing in step S10 are performed to obtain a finished garment.
  • the method of the present invention is low-carbon and environmentally friendly. It adopts a new fruit natural dyeing process instead of the traditional chemical dyeing process, selects fruits with high pigment content as dyeing raw materials, and does not add any chemical additives and dyes to achieve a pure natural coloring process for garments. Select the technical solution of dewatering and drying after clothing dyeing, and then washing and dehydration drying twice, to achieve the purpose of achieving the quality of the color fastness of the clothing after dyeing;
  • the cloth dyeing tank performs garment dyeing to achieve uniform dyeing of the garment, reduce the color difference of the tank, and improve the dimensional stability of the garment.
  • the fruit dyed garment produced by the method of the invention has good quality, green health, and has a good market prospect.
  • This embodiment is a production method for dyeing garments using natural fruit dyes. Taking 5000 pairs of underwear made of (50s wooddale + 30D spandex) cloth as an example, the method for producing natural dyed underwear using fruit dyes is described. Choose pitaya and mangosteen which are rich in pigments in nature as dyes. After washing the fruits clean, get natural dye solution by extraction without adding any chemical additives and dyes (including mordants); choose high-efficiency refining agents, pass ratio The traditional process extends the refining time by 30% and raises the refining temperature to 110 ° C for pre-treatment of grey cloths. After obtaining the white cloth after the grey cloth pre-treatment, cut about 1.5m * 1.5m from the white cloth.
  • the clothes are connected in series with a protective cloth and the clothes fixed on one side of the protective cloth are completely surrounded to form protection; then the underwear enters the dyed cloth with the protective cloth like the dyed cloth.
  • Air-flow dyeing tank which is used to wash underpants before dyeing according to the traditional cloth cooking process.
  • the garment dyeing equipment used is an air-flow dyeing tank with a diameter of 100mm.
  • the mature cloth dyeing process is used to select the air for dyeing cloth
  • the overflow dyeing tank is used as a garment dyeing tank for garment dyeing; instead of washing immediately after dyeing, it is dehydrated, dried, and then washed with water at a drying temperature of 100 ° C; Finishing, first wash at room temperature for 10 minutes, then wash at 50 ° C for 30 minutes, and finally wash at room temperature for 50 minutes; after washing, add an appropriate amount of non-ionic, non-ferrous metal ions and other hydrophilic softeners to feel Finishing: After washing and hand finishing, the second dehydration and drying, as well as the post-processing after ironing and dyeing of the garment, thus producing high-quality finished fruit-dyed underwear garments with a product quality of A to GB31701-2015. Class level.
  • This embodiment is a production method for dyeing garments using natural fruit dyes. Taking 3,000 knitted sweaters made of a 40s cotton knitted fabric as an example, the method for producing natural dyed knitted sweaters using fruit dyes will be described. Medium-growing strawberries and pomegranates rich in pigments are used as dyes. After the fruits are washed, natural dye liquors are obtained through extraction without adding any chemical aids and dyes (including mordants); the enzyme treatment process is selected, and the enzymes are pretreated by padding. Cold pile and then wash with water to carry out grey cloth pre-treatment. After obtaining the white cloth after the grey cloth pre-treatment, cut about 1.5m * 1.5m from the white cloth. Use a stain-proof pen to draw a 1m in both length and width directions.
  • this piece of cloth is dyed out like a garment in a garment dyeing tank (air-flow dyeing tank for cloth dyeing), and the size after dyeing changes from 1m to 0.95 in the length direction m, width direction changed from 1m to 0.97m, the accurate dyeing shrinkage ratio was 5% shrinkage in the length direction, 3% shrinkage in the width direction, and then cutting and grading were carried out; preparing a long straight Stretched mesh cloth is used as a protective covering to withstand the impact of air, liquid or water during dyeing.
  • the width of this protective covering is twice the width of the shirt body when the knitted sweater is to be tiled, and it is 50cm * 2.
  • the cloth wraps the knit sweaters that are tiled together in series and fixed on the side of the protective cloth to completely surround it to form protection; then the knitted sweater enters the air-flow dyeing cylinder for dyeing the cloth as the protective cloth, according to the traditional cloth
  • the washing process is performed before the clothes are dyed.
  • the selected garment dyeing equipment is an air-flow dyeing tank, and the dyeing channel nozzle is relatively large: the diameter of the nozzle is 500mm; the mature cloth dyeing process is used, and the air-cylinder dyeing machine that chooses to dye the cloth is used for clothing.
  • Dyeing with a tank for garment dyeing instead of washing immediately after dyeing, it is dehydrated, dried and then washed with water at a drying temperature of 170 ° C; then washed with water and feel finishing First, wash at room temperature for 50 minutes, then wash at 70 ° C for 50 minutes, and finally wash at room temperature for 10 minutes. After washing, add an appropriate amount of non-ionic, non-ferrous metal ions and other hydrophilic softeners for finishing.
  • This embodiment is a production method for dyeing garments using natural fruit dyes. Taking 2,000 pieces of home clothing made of 21s wood-dye cloth as an example, the method for producing natural dyed home clothing using fruit dyes is described. Medium-growth pigment-rich wild fruits and coconuts are used as dyes. After the fruits are washed clean, natural dye liquor is obtained by extraction without adding any chemical additives and dyes (including mordants); choose high-efficiency refining agents, and extend them by using traditional techniques. 100% refining time, increase the refining temperature to 90 ° C for grey fabric pre-treatment. After the grey fabric pre-treatment to obtain a white cloth, cut about 1.5m * 1.5m from the white cloth. Use a stain-resistant pen in both length and width.
  • the clothes are connected in series with a protective cloth and the clothes fixed on one side of the protective cloth are completely surrounded to form protection; then the home clothing enters the dyed cloth with the protective cloth like the dyed cloth
  • the air-flow dyeing tank used is used to wash clothes before dyeing according to the traditional cloth cooking process.
  • the selected garment dyeing equipment is the air-flow dyeing tank.
  • the dyeing channel nozzle is relatively large: the diameter of the nozzle is in the range of 300mm; mature cloth is used.
  • Dyeing process choose the fabric overflowing dyeing tank as the garment dyeing tank for garment dyeing; instead of washing immediately after dyeing, dewatering, drying and then washing, the drying temperature is 80 ; Then wash with water and feel finishing, first wash at room temperature for 20 minutes, then wash at 60 ° C for 30 minutes, and finally wash at room temperature for 20 minutes; add an appropriate amount of non-ionic, iron-free metal ions after washing Water-based softener for hand finishing; after washing and hand finishing, the second dehydration and drying, as well as post-processing after ironing and dyeing of garments, to produce high-quality fruit-dyed household clothing products with high quality GB31701-2015 standard A level.

Abstract

一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，选用色素含量高的水果作为天然染色的原料，不添加任何化工助剂和染料，选择成衣染色后先脱水烘干，再进行水洗，然后进行第二次烘干，通过选择染色通道管口直径较大的染色缸进行成衣染色。有益效果：生产过程低碳环保，采用水果天然染色新工艺替代传统化工染色工艺，生产出来的水果染成衣品质好、绿色健康，具有很好的市场前景。

Description

一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法 技术领域
本发明涉及服装领域,特别是涉及一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法。
背景技术
通过纱线染色、布料染色和成衣染色都可以生产出有色的服装成衣，其中的成衣染色、传统上通常是利用化学染料染色生产而成，这种化工染色方法污染环境，也不利于消费者的穿着健康。有技术人员在完全不使用化工助剂的情况下,利用天然染料进行过成衣染色的研究生产，结果存在色牢度不达标，染色出现色花，每件成衣之间和缸与缸之间均存在严重色差等等问题。造成这些问题的主要原因是不使用化工助剂的情况下，天然染料对布料纤维的固着度低，染色的匀染性差，加上传统的成衣染色设备染缸容量小，工艺控制自动化程度不高，这些原因导致目前市场上还没有一种能够在完全不使用化工助剂情况下利用天然染料进行成衣染色、质量可达标的成衣染色生产方法。
用户既要求成衣产品环保健康，还要求品质好，但目前市场没有一种利用天然染料进行成衣染色的方式能生产出质量达标的成衣产品。因此，提供一种可提高天然染料成衣染色产品品质的方法很有必要。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，染色过程不添加任何化学助剂和染料完成成衣的染色，而且没有污水排放，采用水果染色工艺替代传统化学染料染色的成衣染色方法，可提高天然染料成衣染色产品品质，解决了现有天然染料成衣染色存在的色牢度不达标、染色出现色花、每件成衣之间和缸与缸之间均存在严重色差等方面的质量问题。
本发明的技术方案:选择色素含量高的水果作为天然染色的原料、不添加任何化学助剂和染料，实现成衣染色过程的纯天然性；改变传统的成衣染色工艺中染色后先进行水洗、再脱水烘干的方法，而是选择成衣染色后先脱水烘干再进行水洗、再进行第二次脱水烘干的技术方案，实现了染色后成衣的色牢度质量能够达标的目的；通过选择染色通道管口直径较大的染色缸进行成衣染色，用染布料一样的染色工艺对串联成一体的衣服进行成衣染色，实现成衣均匀染色、减少缸差色差和提高了服装的尺寸稳定性。
采取上述技术方案达到如下的技术效果：解决了成衣染色过程的纯天然性，可为消费者提供天然健康的成衣产品，解决了天然染色成衣的色牢度达标问题，大大减少传统成衣染色过程中出现的色花、色差、缸差和服装尺寸稳定性等问题，大大提高了天然染料成衣染色产品的品质水平。
一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，具体包括如下步骤：S1.选果、洗果、色液萃取；S2.坯布前处理；S3.白色半成品服装车缝加工；S4.缝头串联；S5.衣服染前煮洗；S6.大通道管口缸 直径的成衣染色；S7.染色后脱水烘干；S8.水洗、手感整理；S9.二次脱水、烘干；S10.整烫、成衣染色后的后加工获得成衣成品。
优选的，步骤S1所述的选果、洗果、色液萃取：选择大自然中生长的各种富含色素的水果作为成衣染色的染料，色素含量高的水果具体指火龙果、草莓、野山果、石榴、椰子和山竹，具体应用火龙果、草莓、野山果的果肉或石榴、椰子、山竹的果皮，将选择好的水果冲洗干净后，通过萃取获得天然染液，不添加任何化学助剂和染料(包括媒染剂)，以确保下工序成衣染色的天然环保性。
优选的，步骤S2中所述的坯布前处理：选择化工污染很少或没有污染的前处理工艺，包括但不限于利用高效精炼剂、通过比传统工艺延长30％～100％的精炼时间、提高精炼温度到90～110℃范围进行坯布前处理，或者采用酶处理工艺、经过浸轧前处理酶再冷堆再水洗、进行的坯布前处理。
优选的，步骤S3所述白色半成品服装车缝加工：经过步骤S2坯布前处理得到白色布料后，进行白色半成品服装的车缝加工，为确保成衣染色后的成衣尺寸规格符合质量要求，本技术方案选择的尺寸放码技术方案采用如下方法：从步骤S2坯布前处理得到的白色布料中剪取1.5m*1.5m左右大小，用防染笔在长度和宽度两个方向画出一个1m*1m的正方形，然后选择将这块布象其中的一件衣服一样搭在下述步骤S6的成衣染色缸中，按相应的成衣染色工艺要求将这块布象衣服一样搭染出来，再量1m*1m正方形染前染后的尺寸变化，得出准确的染色缩率、再进行裁剪放码，从而确保成衣染色后的成衣尺寸规格 符合质量要求，本技术方案克服了传统的参照国标规定的缩水率测定方法来测缩水率、而造成因为缩水率测定有偏差出现的成衣尺寸不符合质量要求的问题。所述国标规定的缩水率测定方法中只用洗水机进行30分钟左右的短时间水洗，与实际成衣染色生产条件的几个小时相差太大，加上其他生产条件的差异，相应测定出来的缩水率必然有偏差。本技术方案模拟正式的成衣染色工艺得到布料准确的染色缩率、然后进行布料的裁剪得到尺寸正确的服装裁片，再进行正常的服装车缝加工，为提高成衣染色的服装尺寸稳定性提供了技术解决方案。
优选的，步骤S4中所述缝头串联：本技术方案选择染色过程中气流、液流或水流的冲击力对成衣没有直接冲击拉伸的缝头串联方法，本技术方案需要先将衣服平铺、再串联、然后用网眼包布折叠将衣服包在内层，以实现保护衣服不会直接受到气液流冲击拉伸的目的，以及满足衣服能够在染缸容量大、工艺控制自动化程度高的布料染色缸进行成衣染色的工艺要求。先准备一块直向不能有拉伸的网眼布作为承受染色时气流、液流或水流冲击力的保护包布。这块保护包布的宽度为需要染色衣服平铺时的衫身或裤身宽度的两倍、长度与串联后的衣服总长度相同(串联后的衣服总长度＝需要染色衣服平铺时的衫长或裤长*需要染色衣服的总件数)；这块保护包布以长度方向中间线为折叠线进行折叠后、保护包布能够将平铺串联在一起并固定在保护包布一边的衣服完全包围起来，形成保护。
经过步骤S4后，在包布的保护下，衣服随着保护包布象染布料 一样进入染布用的气流染色缸或气溢染色缸，按传统的布料煮洗工艺进行步骤S5中所述的衣服染前煮洗，进一步增强改善衣服布料的毛效和渗透性，实现提高成衣天然染色的均匀度和色牢度。
优选的，步骤S6中所述的大通道管口缸直径的成衣染色：本技术方案选择的成衣染色设备，染色通道管口比较大：管口直径范围在100～500mm，染色通道管口越大、染色过程中衣服行走通过通道管口时受管道压挤的力量越小、衣服自身扭缠的机会也越少、造成染色成衣色花的机会也越少；所述直径较大的成衣染色缸是传统的布料染色缸，包括但不限于通道管口缸直径较大的气流染色缸和气溢染色缸；本技术方案采用成熟的布料染色工艺、选择染布料的气流缸染色机和气溢染色缸作为成衣染色用缸，极大避免了传统用滚筒洗水机缸进行成衣染色时衣服会出现相互缠绕造成色花、以及由于滚筒洗水机的容积小加上生产操作的自动化程度远低于染布料的气流缸或气溢缸染色机、而造成的色差和缸差等质量问题。
优选的，步骤S7中所述染色后脱水烘干：本技术方案选择染色后不是马上水洗，而是先脱水、烘干再进行步骤S8的水洗，目的是先通过烘干实现天然染色的固色，烘干温度在80～170℃范围，以解决染色后成衣的色牢度能够质量达标的问题。
优选的，步骤S8中所述水洗、手感整理：本技术方案选择如下工艺进行水洗和手感整理：常温清水洗10～50分钟、再50～70℃范围清水洗10～50分钟、最后再用常温清水洗10～50分钟；水洗完成后添加适量的非离子型、不含铁等金属离子的亲水性柔软剂进行手感整 理。
优选的，经过步骤S8的水洗和手感整理后，进行步骤S9中所述的第二次脱水和烘干，以及步骤S10中所述整烫和成衣染色后的后加工获得成衣成品。
有益效果：本发明方法生产过程低碳环保，采用水果天然染色新工艺替代传统化工染色工艺，选择色素含量高的水果作为染色原料，不添加任何化学助剂和染料，实现成衣染色过程的纯天然性；选择成衣染色后先脱水烘干再进行水洗，再经过二次的脱水烘干的技术方案，实现染色后成衣的色牢度质量能够达标的目的；通过选择染色通道管口直径较大的布料染色缸进行成衣染色，实现成衣均匀染色、减少缸差色差和提高了服装的尺寸稳定性，本发明方法生产出来的水果染成衣品质好、绿色健康，具有很好的市场前景。
具体实施方式
以下内容是结合具体的优选实施方式对本实用新型所作的进一步详细说明，不能认定本实用新型的具体实施只局限于这些说明,需要说明的是，在不冲突的情况下，本申请中的实施例及实施例中的特征可以相互组合。
实施例1：
本实施例一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，以一种(50s木代尔+30D氨纶)布料做成的5000条内裤为例，说明利用水果染料生产天然染色内裤的方法：先选择大自然中生长富含色素的火龙果和山竹作为染料，将水果冲洗干净后，通过萃取获 得天然染液，不添加任何化学助剂和染料(包括媒染剂)；选择高效精炼剂、通过比传统工艺延长30％的精炼时间、提高精炼温度到110℃进行坯布前处理；经过坯布前处理得到白色的布料后，从白色布料中剪取1.5m*1.5m左右大小，用防染笔在长度和宽度两个方向画出一个1m*1m的正方形，按相应的成衣染色工艺要求将这块布象衣服一样搭在成衣染色缸(染布用的气溢染色缸)中染出来，染后的尺寸变化，长度方向由1m变成0.93m、宽度方向由1m变成0.95m，得出准确的染色缩率为长度方向缩7％、宽度方向缩5％，然后进行裁剪放码；准备一长匹直向不能有拉伸的网眼布作为承受染色时气流、液流或水流的冲击力的保护包布，这块保护包布的宽度为需要染色内裤平铺时的裤身宽度的两倍、为35cm*2＝70cm，长度与串联后的衣服总长度相同＝需要染色衣服平铺时的裤长25cm*需要染色衣服的总件数5000件＝1250米，以长度方向中间线为折叠线进行折叠后、用保护包布将平铺串联在一起并固定在保护包布一边的衣服完全包围起来、形成保护；然后内裤随着保护包布象染布料一样进入染布用的气溢染色缸，按传统的布料煮洗工艺进行内裤染前煮洗，选择的成衣染色设备为气溢染色缸，染色通道管口直径为100mm；采用成熟的布料染色工艺、选择染布料的气溢染色缸作为成衣染色用缸进行成衣染色；染色后不是马上水洗，而是先脱水、烘干再进行水洗，烘干温度为100℃；然后进行水洗和手感整理，先常温清水洗10分钟、再50℃清水洗30分钟、最后再用常温清水洗50分钟；水洗完成后添加适量的非离子型、不含铁等金 属离子的亲水性柔软剂进行手感整理；经过水洗和手感整理后，进行第二次脱水和烘干，以及整烫和成衣染色后的后加工，从而高品质地生产出水果染内裤成衣成品，产品质量达到GB31701-2015标准的A类水平。
实施例2：
本实施例一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，以一种40s纯棉针织布料做成的3000件针织衫为例，说明利用水果染料生产天然染色针织衫的方法：先选择大自然中生长富含色素的草莓和石榴作为染料，将水果冲洗干净后，通过萃取获得天然染液，不添加任何化学助剂和染料(包括媒染剂)；选择酶处理工艺、经过浸轧前处理酶再冷堆再水洗、进行坯布前处理；经过坯布前处理得到白色的布料后，从白色布料中剪取1.5m*1.5m左右大小，用防染笔在长度和宽度两个方向画出一个1m*1m的正方形，按相应的成衣染色工艺要求将这块布象衣服一样搭在成衣染色缸(染布用的气流染色缸)中染出来，染后的尺寸变化，长度方向由1m变成0.95m、宽度方向由1m变成0.97m，得出准确的染色缩率为长度方向缩5％、宽度方向缩3％，然后进行裁剪放码；准备一长匹直向不能有拉伸的网眼布作为承受染色时气流、液流或水流的冲击力的保护包布，这块保护包布的宽度为需要染色针织衫平铺时的衫身宽度的两倍、为50cm*2＝100cm，长度与串联后的衣服总长度相同＝需要染色衣服平铺时的衫长75cm*需要染色衣服的总件数3000件＝2250米，以长度方向中间线为折叠线进行折叠后、用保护包布 将平铺串联在一起并固定在保护包布一边的针织衫完全包围起来、形成保护；然后针织衫随着保护包布象染布料一样进入染布用的气流染色缸，按传统的布料煮洗工艺进行衣服染前煮洗，选择的成衣染色设备为气流染色缸，染色通道管口比较大：管口直径为500mm；采用成熟的布料染色工艺、选择染布料的气流缸染色机作为成衣染色用缸进行成衣染色；染色后不是马上水洗，而是先脱水、烘干再进行水洗，烘干温度为170℃；然后进行水洗和手感整理，先常温清水洗50分钟、再70℃清水洗50分钟、最后再用常温清水洗10分钟；水洗完成后添加适量的非离子型、不含铁等金属离子的亲水性柔软剂进行手感整理；经过水洗和手感整理后，进行第二次脱水和烘干，以及整烫和成衣染色后的后加工，从而高品质地生产出水果染针织衫成品，产品质量达到GB31701-2015标准的A类水平。
实施例3：
本实施例一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，以一种21s木代尔布料做成的2000件家居服为例，说明利用水果染料生产天然染色家居服的方法：先选择大自然中生长富含色素的野山果和椰子作为染料，将水果冲洗干净后，通过萃取获得天然染液，不添加任何化学助剂和染料(包括媒染剂)；选择高效精炼剂、通过比传统工艺延长100％的精炼时间、提高精炼温度到90℃进行坯布前处理，经过坯布前处理得到白色的布料后，从白色布料中剪取1.5m*1.5m左右大小，用防染笔在长度和宽度两个方向画出一个1m*1m的正方形，按相应的成衣染色工艺要求将这块布象衣服 一样搭在成衣染色缸(染布用的气溢染色缸)中染出来，染后的尺寸变化，长度方向由1m变成0.94m、宽度方向由1m变成0.96m，得出准确的染色缩率为长度方向缩6％、宽度方向缩4％，然后进行裁剪放码；准备一长匹直向不能有拉伸的网眼布作为承受染色时气流、液流或水流的冲击力的保护包布，这块保护包布的宽度为需要染色家居服平铺时的衫身宽度的两倍、为60cm*2＝120cm，长度与串联后的家居服总长度相同＝需要染色家居服平铺时的衫长70cm*需要染色衣服的总件数2000件＝1400米，以长度方向中间线为折叠线进行折叠后、用保护包布将平铺串联在一起并固定在保护包布一边的衣服完全包围起来、形成保护；然后家居服随着保护包布象染布料一样进入染布用的气溢染色缸，按传统的布料煮洗工艺进行衣服染前煮洗，选择的成衣染色设备为气溢染色缸，染色通道管口比较大：管口直径范围在300mm；采用成熟的布料染色工艺、选择染布料的气溢染色缸作为成衣染色用缸进行成衣染色；染色后不是马上水洗，而是先脱水、烘干再进行水洗，烘干温度为80℃；然后进行水洗和手感整理，先常温清水洗20分钟、再60℃清水洗30分钟、最后再用常温清水洗20分钟；水洗完成后添加适量的非离子型、不含铁等金属离子的亲水性柔软剂进行手感整理；经过水洗和手感整理后，进行第二次脱水和烘干，以及整烫和成衣染色后的后加工，从而高品质地生产出水果染家居服成品，产品质量达GB31701-2015标准的A类水平。
对于本发明所属技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明 构思的前提下，还可以做出若干简单推演或替换，都应当视为属于本发明的保护范围。

Claims (8)

  1. 一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，其特征在于，选用色素含量高的水果作为天然染色的原料，不添加任何化工助剂和染料，选择成衣染色方法后先脱水烘干，再进行水洗，然后进行第二次烘干，通过选择染色通道管口直径较大的染色缸进行成衣染色。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，其特征在于，具体包括以下步骤：S1.选果、洗果、色液萃取；S2.坯布前处理；S3.白色半成品服装车缝加工；S4.缝头串联；S5.衣服染前煮洗；S6.大通道管口缸直径的成衣染色；S7.染色后脱水烘干；S8.水洗、手感整理；S9.二次脱水、烘干；S10.整烫、成衣染色后的后加工。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，其特征在于，所述步骤S1选取色素含量高的水果，所述色素含量高的水果包括火龙果、草莓、野山果、石榴、椰子和山竹，通过萃取火龙果、草莓、野山果的果肉或石榴、椰子、山竹的果皮其中的任意一种或其组合物获得天然染液。
  4. 根据权利要求2所述的一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，其特征在于，所述步骤S2选择化工污染很少或没有污染的前处理工艺，利用高效精炼剂，通过比传统工艺延长30～100％的精炼时间，提高精炼温度到90～110℃范围进行坯布前处理，或者采用酶处理工艺，经过浸轧前处理酶再冷堆再水洗，进行的坯布前处理 得到白色布料。
  5. 根据权利要求2所述的一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，其特征在于，所述步骤S3对步骤S2获得的白色布料进行车缝加工，将白色布料剪取1.5m*1.5m的大小，用防染笔在长度和宽度两个方向画出一个1m*1m的正方形，然后选择将这块布象其中的一件衣服一样搭在下述步骤S6的成衣染色缸中，按相应的成衣染色工艺要求将这块布象衣服一样搭染出来，再量1m*1m正方形染前染后的尺寸变化，得出准确的染色缩率，再进行裁剪放码，从而确保成衣染色后的成衣尺寸规格符合质量要求。
  6. 根据权利要求2所述的一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，其特征在于，所述步骤S4选择染色过程中气流、液流或水流的冲击力对成衣没有直接冲击拉伸的缝头串联方法，先将衣服平铺，再串联，然后用网眼包布折叠将衣服包在内层。
  7. 根据权利要求2所述的一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，其特征在于，所述步骤S7染色后脱水烘干，其中烘干的温度为80～170℃。
  8. 根据权利要求2所述的一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法，其特征在于，所述步骤S8先进行常温清水洗10～50分钟，再在50～70℃的温度下进行清水洗10～50分钟，最后再用常温清水洗10～50分钟，水洗完成后添加适量的非离子型、不含金属离子的亲水性柔软剂进行手感整理。
PCT/CN2018/104665 2018-06-01 2018-09-07 一种利用水果天然染料进行成衣染色的生产方法 WO2019227765A1 (zh)

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