CN107875067B

CN107875067B - Skin care composition and use thereof

Info

Publication number: CN107875067B
Application number: CN201711375693.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 戴跃锋; 康文术; 何广文; 颜少慰
Original assignee: Hunan Yujia Cosmetics Manufacturing Co ltd
Current assignee: Syoung Cosmetics Manufacturing Co Ltd
Priority date: 2017-12-19
Filing date: 2017-12-19
Publication date: 2020-12-01
Anticipated expiration: 2037-12-19
Also published as: CN107875067A

Abstract

The invention relates to a skin care composition and application thereof, wherein the skin care composition comprises the following components: skin repair compositions, low molecular weight hyaluronan silanols, skin tightening compositions, carnosine, antiwrinkle peptide compositions, conopeptides, wrinkle-reducing compositions, and plant extract compositions. The skin care composition has obvious advantages in the aspects of timely improving the skin firmness and the anti-fatigue degree, and the skin elasticity can be improved by 3.3% -4.34% and the anti-fatigue degree of the skin can be reduced by 17.95% -20.33% when the skin care composition is smeared on a skin care composition sample for 30 min.

Description

Skin care composition and use thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a skin refining composition and application thereof.

Background

Skin is aged all the time, the elasticity of the skin is slowly reduced, the skin becomes thinner and thinner, and the skin is more fragile and looser, the skin is full of wrinkles, the skin aging resistance is to prevent the skin from generating the changes of the main functions and organic degeneracy due to the time lapse, and the changes are expressed in the prevention of the wrinkles, dryness, scurf, laxity and color spots.

In recent years, many cosmetics or skin care products have been favored because of their skin-caring and rejuvenating effects. Early on, many animal glandular and serum extracts had significant cosmetic and cosmetology effects, but were less and less advocated. Over the past few years, the cosmetic industry has been increasingly aware of the structure and function of the skin and has improved the ability to determine whether a formulation is beneficial to the skin.

For over 50 years, skin care scientists have been dedicated to removing scars, spots or imperfections on the skin surface by peeling the skin to make it glow with a new skin color, but lack the effect of accelerating cell renewal or exfoliation by daily maintenance or repeated skin peeling to achieve youthful appearance. Aiming at the appearance of skin aging caused by skin aging, such as skin elasticity reduction, collagen denaturation, facial wrinkles, relaxation, senile plaques and the like. Skin tissue damage and photoaging caused by long-term or frequent irradiation and ultraviolet pressing irradiation in sunlight, free radicals and induced oxidation or excessive chain reaction. How to effectively research and develop the aging of skin and relieve the extensive damage of skin has been highly valued and paid attention to by the anti-aging medical, biological and cosmetic industries.

While anti-aging products have previously been limited to consumers over 50 years old, they are currently favored by consumers over 30 years old, and even younger.

With the development of socio-economy, many countries including china have entered into an aging social line, and thus anti-aging products are receiving much attention. Anti-aging is the most concerned and most popular beauty care service for women.

Aging, also known as aging, is a stage that must be experienced during the course of a living organism's activities, and generally refers to the progressive process of functional and organic decline of the organism over time after the organism develops and matures under normal conditions. Thus, aging is not a disease, but a physiological phenomenon. The skin is located on the body surface and is one of the most prominent organs in the aging process of the body.

With the increasing living standard of people, people also pay attention to the problem of skin aging after meeting the basic requirements of clothes, eating and housing. The pursuit of the unadorned face by people is absolutely not present, and from ancient times to the present, from the west to the east, from the black to the white, the possibility is sought, and the possibility is gradually improved along with the development of scientific technology.

Disclosure of Invention

Based on this, it is an object of the present invention to provide a skin care composition.

The specific technical scheme is as follows:

a skin care composition (uniboost2) comprising the following components:

skin repair compositions, low molecular weight hyaluronilanols, skin tightening compositions, carnosine, antiwrinkle peptide compositions, conopeptides, wrinkle-reducing compositions, and plant extract compositions;

the active ingredients of the skin repair composition comprise an extract of Cistus incanus and an extract of Gynostemma pentaphyllum;

the active ingredients of the skin tightening composition include euglena gracilis polysaccharide and hydrolyzed collagen;

the active ingredients of the anti-wrinkle peptide composition comprise tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and pentapeptide-1;

the active ingredients of the wrinkle-removing composition comprise beta-glucan, barley seed extract and hyaluronic acid;

the active ingredients of the plant extract composition include scutellaria root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, perilla seed extract, kochia fruit extract, magnolia biondii extract, dictamnus dasycarpus root extract, centella asiatica extract, moutan root extract, and saposhnikovia divaricata extract.

In some of these embodiments, the skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:

in some of these embodiments, the mass ratio of the extract of rosa griseus to the extract of gynostemma pentaphyllum in the skin repair composition is 1-3: 1-3.

In some embodiments, the anti-wrinkle peptide composition comprises tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and pentapeptide-1 in a mass ratio of 1-3:1-3: 1-3.

In some of these embodiments, the wrinkle-reducing composition comprises beta-glucan, barley seed extract, and hyaluronic acid in a mass ratio of 1-3:1-3: 1-3.

It is another object of the present invention to provide the use of the above skin care composition in cosmetics.

In some of these embodiments, the cosmetic product is selected from a cleanser, toner, cream, serum, mask, or color cosmetic.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic product comprising the above skin-care composition.

The mechanism of skin aging and anti-aging cosmetics will be described below, and a technical targeting approach is adopted to develop a skin-care composition and evaluate the anti-aging efficacy of the composition against the mechanism of skin aging.

1. Mechanism of skin aging

Skin aging is the accumulation of cellular and structural damage that develops as an individual ages, and the skin aging process is divided into intrinsic and extrinsic aspects.

1.1 intrinsic Process

The intrinsic process refers to the phenomenon that as people age, fine wrinkles and loose skin appear on the skin. The endogenous mechanisms of skin aging are very complex, and representative aging theories mainly include a free radical theory, a genetic theory, a mitochondrial DNA damage theory and the like.

(1) Theory of free radicals

Free radicals, also known as free radicals, or specifically oxygen radicals, are produced by oxidative metabolism in the body. The theory of free radicals was proposed by Harman in 1956, and its central contents include: free radicals are highly chemically active intermediates that are ubiquitous in living organisms; under normal physiological conditions, the production and elimination of free radicals in the body are in dynamic equilibrium, which, once disrupted, results in the production of excess free radicals; toxic attack of excess free radicals on biological tissues such as chromosomes, mitochondria, cell membranes and connective tissues can cause aging of the body.

The mechanism of aging caused by free radicals can be divided into the following three aspects: firstly, the biomacromolecule is subjected to cross-linking polymerization and lipofuscin accumulation; secondly, organ tissue cells are damaged and reduced; thirdly, the immune function is reduced.

Free radicals promote aging in vivo primarily by: peroxidation of lipids to cause damage to cell membranes; cross-linking or oxidative damage of DNA, RNA to cause cell damage; the polysaccharide polymer is oxidized to cause damage. The theory considers that free radicals with high chemical activity generated in the metabolic process of a body are important initiating factors of aging, and the damage reaction to tissue cells is slow, repeated and gradual, and physiological aging gradually occurs.

(2) Theory of genetic origin

The genetics and genetics are the analysis of senescence phenomena at the chromosomal and genetic level. The theory holds that aging is a life phenomenon defined by some genetic program and expressed on time.

With the age, the modified gene is lost, the DNA methylation is reduced, the phosphorylation reaction is reduced, the telomere is shortened, the DNA self-repair capability is reduced, the regulation of protooncogenes, cancer suppressor genes and the like causes chromosome mutation, and normal cells are over-differentiated, so that the aging expression is generated. Hayflik originally developed extracellular in vitro culture to discover cytogenetic laws, thought that developmental processes were temporally sequential, with control mechanisms weakening with age, ultimately leading to senescence.

(3) Theory of mitochondrial DNA damage

Miquel and Cowiker presented the mitochondrial theory of senescence in 1980. It is believed that damage to mitochondrial DNA underlies the molecular basis of cell senescence and death, and its research has recently become a hot spot for anti-aging mechanisms. From the perspective of cell biology, 90% of energy generated by intracellular oxidative phosphorylation is from mitochondria so as to supply cell life, and when mitochondrial DNA damage occurs, the generated energy is reduced, and energy supply of cells is affected, so that functions of cells, tissues and organs are declined. Thus, researchers believe that mitochondrial degeneration, leakage and rupture are all important causes of aging. Delaying the mitochondrial destruction process may extend the cell life and thus the life of the body.

(4) Other theory of learning

Other factors including the theory of variation of enzyme activity, the theory of immunology, the theory of hormones, the theory of telomeres, the absence of essential trace elements, etc. all speculate on the aging mechanism from different angles and levels.

1.2 Exception Process

Extrinsic processes generally refer to the effects of environmental or other forms of exposure on the skin, causing some change. Such as deeper and coarser wrinkles, molting, dry skin, age spots, etc. The exogenous factors mainly comprise ultraviolet irradiation, cigarette smoke and other bad living habits, and the existence of the exogenous factors can accelerate the natural aging process of the skin.

(1) Ultraviolet ray

Chronic uv exposure is the most common and most powerful extrinsic factor leading to skin aging. Accumulation of ultraviolet damage the aging of early layers of skin is known as "photoaging". The characteristic changes of photoaging are limited to the exposed part, and are manifested by rough and thick skin exposed part, deepening and thickening of wrinkles, thickening of skin cuticle, gradual change of irregular pigment, dilation or disappearance of capillary vessels, poor epidermis keratosis, and deformation of dermal elastic fiber. It can be seen that there is a difference between natural aging and photoaging. The differences between photoaging and natural aging of skin are shown in the following table:

(2) cigarette smoke

Smoking promotes skin aging, women smoke more easily to be premature or increase the chance of inducing wrinkles, and the effect of promoting skin aging of smoking is equivalent to that of ultraviolet rays, and the two have synergistic effect. Cigarette is the largest source of free radicals, and oxidative damage caused by free radicals makes skin aging and an important promoter of aging-related diseases.

(3) Bad life habits

Many undesirable living habits accelerate skin aging, such as: if people stay up for a long time all night, people are worried about being good at feel or are anxious and irritable at ordinary times, people are not suitable for losing weight rapidly or lack of physical exercise, and poor-quality cosmetics, excessive drinking, thick tea, thick coffee and the like are easy to stimulate the skin, reduce the division and proliferation of skin cells, enable the skin to become new metabolic capacity, and enable the skin to be loose to promote aging.

2. Anti-aging approaches

Aging is the progressive process of functional and organic decline that will occur over time in decommissioning of all individuals. And the structural changes of the dermis are the main cause of skin aging. Under the combined action of the skin aging endogenous and exogenous factors, the number of the synthetic fiber cells is gradually reduced, the collagen synthesis and elastin synthesis capacity is reduced, the content of aminopolysaccharide in extracellular matrixes is reduced, meanwhile, the proteolytic enzyme is increased, so that the degradation of collagen and extracellular matrix components is increased, the elastic fiber net of the dermal papilla disappears, the elastic fiber is degraded and denatured, trees are reduced, thinned and even fragmented, and the skin is loosened to form wrinkles.

According to the above mechanism, the following approaches are taken to delay skin aging, improve the skin laxity, tighten the skin, improve the skin texture, and reduce the length and depth of wrinkles.

2.1 enhancing the skin barrier function

The essence of aging is the decline of tissue cell function. Therefore, promoting the activity of cells, i.e., the proliferative metabolic capacity, and thus delaying skin aging is a key fundamental strategy. The patent constructs perfect skin barrier function and basically ensures skin delicacy.

Skin disorders cause irritation of the skin barrier, decreased integrity, increased permeability, decreased hydration, decreased firmness and elasticity of the skin, decreased cohesiveness, resulting in skin pruritus, chronic dryness, slow recovery, increased sensitivity problems, flabby skin, and wrinkles.

Important barriers of the skin and the environment mainly include physical defense barriers, permeability barriers, immune barriers against chemical poisons/antigens, physical barriers against excessive moisture and electrolyte loss in the skin by hydration, microbial antibacterial barriers, UV barriers and thermal barriers.

The skin repairing composition (obtained from Oriental snow, reforcol) used in the above skin refining composition comprises the following components:

components	Proportioning	Remarks for note
			Glycerol	25-50
Water (W)	25-50
			Glutamine	1-5
Decyl glucoside	1-5
			Phenoxyethanol	1-5
Citric acid	0.1-1
			Cistus incanus extract (flower/leaf/stem)	0.1-1	Bairui wood
Gynostemma pentaphyllum extract (leaf/stem)	0.1-1	Gynostemma pentaphylla

The core efficacy component in the skin repair composition comprises an extract of rosa grisea and an extract of gynostemma pentaphyllum, and is effective in improving mature skin, and improving the hydration degree, firmness, wrinkle depth, elasticity, smoothness, barrier function strength and regeneration capacity of skin.

(1) Gynostemma pentaphylla

Gynostemma pentaphylla comes from far east and is called as 'paradise' and 'miracle grass' which belong to cucurbitaceae, climbing plants, medicinal plants, liver protection soup, blood pressure regulation, cardiovascular diseases, immune stimulation and the like. The invention mainly utilizes the gynostemma pentaphylla which contains rich gypenoside, has the function of activating LXR and is a main regulator for epidermal lipid synthesis.

(a) Activating LXR

Activating LXR, detecting by real-time quantitative fluorescence PCR method, culturing human keratinocyte in herba Gynostemmatis extract with different concentrations, and detecting LXR by PCR 2 days later. The test results showed that LXR increased 30% and 39% (depending on the dose).

(b) Stimulation of epidermal lipid synthesis

The key enzymes for epidermal lipid synthesis mainly refer to acetyl-CoA synthetase (ACS), glucosylceramide transferase (GCT), Fatty Acid Synthetase (FAS), and Gynostemma pentaphyllum is involved in stimulating epidermal lipid synthesis expression.

Keratinized cells of human body were cultured with 0.02% gynostemma pentaphyllum extract, after 2 days, RNA was isolated, and then enzyme expression was measured, Acetyl Coa Synthetase (ACS) expression was increased by 14%, glucosylceramide transferase (GCT) expression was increased by 23%, and Fatty Acid Synthase (FAS) expression was increased by 21%.

(2) Bairui wood

The Daphne brevicaulis, which is from the Mediterranean region, belongs to the plants of the family Labiatae, needs to be bred and regenerated by fire, is traditionally used as scented tea, is generally recognized as the plant with the richest polyphenol content in Europe, has antiviral curative effect and antioxidant activity, and strengthens the antioxidant defense system of skin.

The skin repair composition contains the daphne giraldii nitsche, and can improve the skin compactness, the skin barrier integrity and the repair capability. The TESA is adopted to peel the damaged skin of the corneocytes, so that 37.6 percent of single peeling of the corneocytes and 8.3 percent of 2-time peeling of the corneocytes can be reduced, and compared with a placebo, the TESA applied for 28 days can obviously improve the barrier function, and improve the hydration degree, the compactness, the elasticity and the smoothness of the skin.

The skin repairing composition is applied to 20 female volunteers, 55-75 years old (average age is 63 years old), the skin around the eyes is smeared twice a day for 28 days, and the efficacy evaluation is carried out, so that the wrinkle depth is obviously reduced by 9 percent (14 days) and 14 percent (28 days).

2.2 Low molecular weight hyaluronan silanol

The skin care composition adopts low molecular weight hyaluronic acid silanol (purchased from EPidermosil, baihabo) to repair skin deep layer and delay aging. The natural components of skin and connective tissues contain a large amount of silicon elements, and the principle of anti-wrinkle and age-reducing skin is that fibroblasts secrete collagen, elastin and extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid, to make the skin firm, elastic and flexible. The silicon content in connective tissue decreases with age, reversing or slowing the most desirable way of connective tissue breakdown, supplemented with bioactive silicon.

The technical indexes of the product are as follows:

components	The lower limit of the content	The upper limit of the content	Remarks for note
				Small molecule hyaluronic acid	0.25	0.45	<10000kda
Silicon	0.8	1
				Methyl propylene glycol	18	22
Citric acid	0.1	0.3

Bioactive silicon, referred to as silanol, is a reactive monomer or oligomer, and siloxane is a polymer that is not bioactive.

The low molecular weight hyaluronic acid silanol aims at keratinocytes and mainly plays the roles of increasing the value and the thickness of epidermis, improving the moisture content of the skin, reducing the moisture loss of the skin and better moisturizing and protecting the skin; the active silanol can promote the proliferation of fibroblasts, mainly through improving the information exchange of different skin layers, promote the information exchange among cells, promote the fibroblasts to secrete more collagen, and make the skin compact, elastic and flexible.

The biological activity of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can be mainly combined with a receptor CD44 to promote keratinocyte proliferation, more CD44 expression can stimulate the generation of hyaluronic acid, and the benign circulation can promote the increase of the thickness of an epidermal layer.

The combination of silanol and hyaluronic acid has unique synergistic effect, the hyaluronic acid is independently used and mainly concentrated on the surface layer, the bioavailability and the permeability are poor, and the low molecular weight hyaluronic silanol can optimize the distribution and improve the permeability and the bioavailability, so the synergistic effect is realized.

2.3 anti-expression lines

Wrinkles on the forehead, eyes, periorbital and lips of the human face are evidence of aging, which is also a major problem of skin tightening and anti-aging. Dynamic wrinkles, epidermal wrinkles caused by the contraction and traction of expression muscles when the face is expressed, such as: eyebrow lines, head-up lines, crow's feet, etc., and the appearance of wrinkles on the face of human beings, in addition to the cause of natural aging, more importantly, the excessive contraction of expression muscles, and dynamic lines gradually appear on the face after the appearance age is generally 20 years old. The peptides are important physiological regulators of human bodies, can comprehensively regulate the physiological functions of the human bodies, stimulate the regeneration of cells and collagen, and effectively resist aging.

The expression lines represent life traces, and muscles participate in the formation of the expression lines. When the face is not expressing, the transverse Kantaer line is formed mainly in the spastic action of the orbicularis oculi muscles. When the expression is exaggerated (smiling or other expressions), the deep muscle groups (zygomatic, levator muscles of the corners of the mouth) are the main participants. When a natural smile is made, the target muscle that makes oneself look like to be still full of youthful vigor is the superficial orbicularis oculi muscle.

The medical and cosmetic solution for wrinkle is to inject botulinum toxin. The botulinum toxin is a popular injection wrinkle-removing material, and the principle is that release of acetylcholine at a neuromuscular junction is inhibited, so that muscle tension is reduced or paralysis is caused, the effect of tightening and thinning a face is achieved, expression wrinkles are gradually disappeared, the effect is maintained for 3-6 months, and then repeated injection is needed.

The risk of injecting the botulinum toxin is as follows, excessive injection causes facial paralysis, the botulinum toxin is strong, and the botulinum toxin can enter a central nervous system and even reach a brainstem, so that the life is threatened; improper injection can cause poisoning, blurred vision, dyspnea, muscle weakness and other symptoms, if the condition is serious, death, heart, kidney, liver and other diseases can be caused, and patients need to take care of the injection, and need to take professional and formal beauty treatment structures.

The skin refining composition perfectly combines the anti-wrinkle peptide composition and the conopeptides, inhibits expression lines from multiple target spots, and relieves the expression lines under the condition of no numbness of muscles.

(1) Conopeptides

Conopeptide (purchased from Shanghaihei, XEP-18) is adopted, a natural muscle neurotoxin capable of relaxing muscles is simulated through bionics, and the conopeptide is a shell from Cheschil island, so that the conopeptide helps to relieve expression wrinkles in a short time under the condition of not numbing muscles. Experiments prove that the active ingredient can smooth wrinkles and fine lines within only 2 hours, and the effect lasts for 8 hours.

Item	Lower limit of	Upper limit of	Test method
				Colour(s)	Colorless and colorless	Slight beige color	Visual inspection of
Taste of the product	Is tasteless	Is tasteless	Wen
				Conopeptide content	9μm	120μm	HPLC/UV
Conopeptides	96％	100％	HPLC/MC

XEP-018 is a biomimetic stereopeptide with a very stable 3D structure, very close interaction with the receptor, and better penetration than the linear peptide.

The XEP-18 conopeptide is mainly used for relaxing muscles by aiming at a Nav1.4 signal channel and has no paralytic effect. The relatively stable receptor binding is mainly caused by the fact that the stereopeptide has better penetrability than the linear peptide, and muscles are relaxed through regulating synaptic signals.

(2) Anti-wrinkle peptide composition

The anti-wrinkle peptide composition adopted by the skin careful composition is a scientifically designed compound peptide, and three types of botulinum toxins are adopted to act on acetylcholine, act on the acetylcholine from different targets, influence nerve signal conduction, inhibit expression muscle contraction and even fade wrinkles. The Chinese medicinal preparation is called as 'fine wrinkle killer', has the advantages of resisting wrinkles, tightening skin, no risk, no need of injection, safe solution of eye wrinkles, raised lines and statutory lines, and is a safer, milder and effective substitute method for botulinum toxin.

The anti-wrinkle peptide composition comprises the following components;

composition (I)	Proportioning	Remarks for note
			Tripeptide-1	800-1100ppm
Acetyl hexapeptide-8	750-1050ppm
			Pentapeptide-1	950-1100ppm

The anti-wrinkle peptide composition can improve wrinkles formed on the face, the neck, the periphery of eyes and hands, remove fishtail lines, Sichuan lines, statutory lines, expression lines and the like, and can be used as anti-aging products for face care and body care, and face care, neck care and hand care products. A safer, mild botulinum toxin substitute.

2.4 skin firming composition (Euglena gracilis polysaccharide & hydrolyzed collagen)

The skin tightening composition (purchased from Australian Olympic in Guangdong, Biostine HP) mainly combines the euglena gracilis polysaccharide with the hydrolyzed collagen, the hydrolyzed collagen is then on the plant viscous polysaccharide, the hydrolyzed collagen can stay in the deep epidermal layer for a long time to promote the synthesis of the collagen to bring endogenous anti-aging effect and provide long-acting moisturizing effect, and the combination of the two can form a layer of fine film on the skin to form obvious and effective skin tightening effect in a very short time.

The euglena gracilis polysaccharide, also called euglena gracilis, belongs to unicellular flagellates protist, and is a component of the protist, mainly takes glucan and mannan as main components, has anti-inflammation and can improve the immune function.

Hydrolyzing collagen: the average molecular weight of the collagen after enzymolysis is 1000 Da.

The basement membrane of the epidermis is tightly combined with the collagen in the dermis, the dermis is wavy, the epidermis is fluctuated, and the loss of elasticity of the skin after aging is mainly caused by the loss of the collagen.

The collagen fibers begin to become fine at the beginning of aging, and the regular reticular structure formed by the interweaving of the collagen and the elastin in the original dermis is gradually disintegrated, and finally wrinkles are generated.

The hydrolyzed collagen contained in the skin tightening composition Biostine HP used in the present invention is collagen peptide obtained by hydrolyzing collagen with enzyme, and has an average molecular weight of 1000 Da. A large number of hydrophilic groups of hydrolyzed collagen are exposed, so that the water absorption is obviously increased. The original collagen has reduced hydrophobicity, increased charge density, enhanced hydrophilicity and improved water solubility, and the hydrolyzed collagen can effectively stimulate fibroblast proliferation and induce the synthesis of the collagen.

The fishtail line has histological change, the surface phenomenon is that collagen and mucopolysaccharide are reduced, the thin and fallen fragments of elastic tissues are in a disorderly phenomenon, the secretion of cortex is reduced, the skin is dry, the muscle tension is reduced, the skin is aged, and finally wrinkles are generated.

The skin firming composition is applied around the eyes, can moisten eyelids densely and continuously, quickly supplement nutrients and reduce fine wrinkles, and enables the eyelids to rest, calm, tighten and reduce the stroke of the fishtail wrinkles, but generates an immediate and obvious firming effect within a period of time.

2.5 filling wrinkles

The wrinkle-removing composition (Symlift, ex Ded) used in the skin-smoothing composition is an intelligent natural active substance, and has the effects of instantly filling wrinkles and pulling the skin, permeating the skin to moisturize and nourish the skin, and smoothing the wrinkles.

The wrinkle-removing composition comprises the following active components:

the core effects are embodied as follows: the beta-glucan belongs to straight-chain molecular glucan and is an essence component of the oat; sodium hyaluronate is mucopolysaccharide naturally existing in skin, is prepared by biological fermentation, and can deeply nourish and moisturize skin; the trehalose is natural moisture-keeping sugar from plant, and is prepared from barley (seed) extract with moisture-keeping effect.

The wrinkle-removing composition significantly reduces wrinkles and fine lines by evaluation using only 5 minutes, and improves the appearance of the skin after 30 minutes; brings soft skin feeling to the skin,

selecting 21 subjects for sensory evaluation at the fishtail line site with 1% Symlift and water for 30 minutes, 67% of subjects felt their skin smoother, fine lines and wrinkles lighter, and 57% felt the skin firmer.

2.6 resistance to oxidation

Carnosine (L-Carnosine), known by the scientific name β -alanyl-L-histidine, is a crystalline solid composed of a dipeptide of two amino acids, β -alanine and L-histidine. Muscle and brain tissues contain very high concentrations of carnosine. Studies in the uk, korea, russia and other countries have shown that: carnosine has strong antioxidant capacity and is beneficial to human body. Carnosine has been shown to scavenge reactive oxygen Radicals (ROS) and α - β unsaturated aldehydes, which form during oxidative stress over-oxidation of cell membrane fatty acids.

The carnosine can prevent the generation of free radicals generated by smoking, which are harmful to the skin than sunlight, and can oxidize other substances in the human body.

Carnosine has antioxidant properties and is a natural antioxidant.

2.7 anti-allergic inflammation

Environmental factors are increasingly attracting attention to accelerate the aging process of the skin through damage to the skin. Among the environmental factors, in addition to ultraviolet-induced photoaging, air pollution caused by carbon dioxide, smoke and exhaust gas from automobile exhaust is the most important. Skin damage caused by environmental pollution is common, harmful dust in polluted air is deposited on the skin and shows allergic inflammatory reaction, but the skin burn and erythema caused by solar radiation are not easy to detect, so that the anti-allergic inflammation is also one of important strategies for delaying skin aging.

The skin refining composition adopts Chinese medicinal herb formula of plant extract composition (purchased from Shanghai Huiching, Rucika KSK Plus) as anti-allergy component, eliminates free radical and tissue damage caused by inflammatory factors of skin, and delays aging. Mainly inherits the classic of Jingyue quan Shu and Ben Cao Hui Yan and the like, and takes the characteristics of the divaricate saposhnikovia root and the hope spring flower as monarch drugs.

The mast cell inhibitor is taken as a main target, and the function of treating both symptoms and root causes of the allergic reaction and the inflammatory reaction of the product is improved.

The inhibition effect on mast cell degranulation can be directly reflected by the release rate of the B-HEX enzyme of the mast cell, and the experimental conclusion shows that the RUCIKA KSK PLUS can be efficiently inhibited when the effective inhibition rate of the B-HEX enzyme is reached, and the components of the RUCIKA KSK PLUS are as follows:

components	Proportioning	Remarks for note
			Scutellaria root extract	10-20
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract	2-5
			Perilla seed extract	1-2
Kochia scoparia extract	2-10
			Bud/flower extract of hope spring flower	7-15
Dictamnus dasycarpus extract	1-10
			Centella asiatica extract	1-3
Peony root extract	1-10
			Ledebouriella root extract	2-10
Butanediol	To 100

The components are based on the classic of traditional Chinese medicine, and have the following main effects

The invention has the following advantages:

1. the core functional components of the skin repair composition in the skin care composition comprise gynostemma pentaphylla and bairui wood, and the gynostemma pentaphylla which contains rich gypenoside has the function of activating LXR and is a main regulator for epidermal lipid synthesis; the larkspur is recognized as the plant with the highest polyphenol content in Europe, has antiviral curative effect and antioxidant activity, and strengthens the antioxidant defense system of the skin; can improve the skin compactness, and improve the skin barrier integrity and the repair capability.

2. The low molecular weight hyaluronan silanol contained in the skin care composition can deeply repair the skin and delay aging. The silicon content in connective tissue decreases with age, reversing or slowing down the most desirable way of connective tissue breakdown, silanols are effective in supplementing bioactive silicon. The biological activity of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can combine with receptor CD44, promote keratinocyte proliferation, express more CD44, stimulate hyaluronic acid production, and promote epidermal layer thickness increase in benign circulation.

3. The low molecular weight hyaluronic silanol combines silanol and hyaluronic acid to have a unique synergistic effect, improves poor bioavailability and permeability of hyaluronic acid used alone, can optimize distribution, improves permeability and bioavailability by adopting the low molecular weight hyaluronic silanol, and completely recovers the expression of aquaporin AQP-3, thereby providing optimal hydration capability of skin.

4. The skin refining composition perfectly combines the anti-wrinkle peptide composition and the XEP-18 conopeptides, inhibits expression lines from multiple target spots, and relieves the expression lines under the condition of no numbness of muscles. XEP-018 is a biomimetic stereopeptide with a very stable 3D structure, very close interaction with the receptor, and better penetration than the linear peptide; the adopted anti-wrinkle peptide composition contains three kinds of botulinum toxins acting on acetylcholine, and acts on the acetylcholine from different targets, so that nerve signal conduction is influenced, expression muscle contraction is inhibited, and wrinkles are even lightened.

5. The skin care composition eliminates free radicals in vivo by using carnosine, prevents the free radicals from oxidizing other substances in a human body, and thus delays aging; the Biostine HP is mainly used for combining the euglena gracilis polysaccharide and the hydrolyzed collagen, the hydrolyzed collagen is then arranged on the plant viscous polysaccharide, the hydrolyzed collagen can stay in the deep epidermal layer for a long time to promote the synthesis of the collagen to bring an endogenous anti-aging effect and provide a long-acting moisturizing effect, and the two components can be combined to form a fine film on the skin to form an obvious and effective skin tightening effect in a very short time.

6. The wrinkle-removing composition Symlift adopted by the skin refining composition is an intelligent natural active substance, and is prepared by adopting oat essence component beta-glucan and biological fermentation to prepare sodium hyaluronate, natural moisturizing component trehalose and barley (seed) extract with moisturizing function, so that wrinkles are immediately filled and pulled, and the skin is permeated to moisturize and nourish the skin, and the wrinkles are smoothed.

7. The skin care composition is a Chinese herbal formula (plant extract composition) of RUCIKA KSK PLUS, which is developed by combining the characteristics of divaricate saposhnikovia root and hope spring flower as monarch drugs, mainly inherits the classic of Jingyue complete book and Bencao Hui Yan and the like, and is used as an anti-allergy component to eliminate free radical and tissue damage caused by inflammatory factors of skin and delay aging.

8. The skin refining composition can eliminate oxygen free radicals via carnosine, and RUCIKA KSK PLUS (plant extract composition) using radix Saposhnikoviae and flos Magnoliae as principal drug can eliminate free radicals and tissue injury caused by skin inflammation; strengthening the antioxidant defense system of the skin by means of baizuki and gynostemma pentaphylla (skin repair composition); the skin compactness can be improved, and the skin barrier integrity and the repair capability can be improved; the silanol hyaluronic acid and the silanol hyaluronic acid are combined through the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid silanol, so that the unique synergistic effect is achieved, the deep repair of the skin is performed, and the aging is delayed; the anti-wrinkle peptide composition and the XEP-18 conopeptides are perfectly combined, expression lines are inhibited from multiple target points, and the expression lines are relieved under the condition of no numbness of muscles; adopting oat essence component beta-glucan, biologically fermenting to prepare sodium hyaluronate, natural moisturizing component trehalose and barley (seed) extract (wrinkle-removing composition) with moisturizing function, instantly filling wrinkles and pulling skin, permeating skin to moisturize and nourish skin, and smoothing wrinkles; the Chinese medicinal herb anti-allergy component which takes the divaricate saposhnikovia root and the magnolia biondii as main monarch medicaments is used for eliminating free radicals and tissue injuries of skin caused by inflammatory factors and delaying aging. The skin care composition can effectively improve the mature skin, and improve the hydration degree, the toughness, the wrinkle depth, the elasticity and the smoothness of the skin.

9. The CK probe is used for evaluating the skin elasticity and the fatigue resistance, the skin careful composition has obvious advantages in the aspects of timely improving the skin tightness and the fatigue resistance, the skin elasticity can be improved by 3.3-4.34% by smearing the skin careful composition sample for 30min, and the skin fatigue resistance is reduced by 17.95-20.33%. Enhancing barrier function and regenerative capacity.

10. The skin refining composition is applied to fibroblasts, and has the advantages that the number of the fibroblasts can be remarkably increased to 48.28-58.88% and the proliferation rate of the fibroblasts is 50.47% -64.49% through cell counting and MTT chromosome evaluation.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph of percent increase in skin elasticity;

FIG. 2 is a graph of percent reduction in skin fatigue resistance;

FIG. 3 is the amount of cell number increase after sample treatment;

FIG. 4 shows the cell proliferation rate after sample treatment.

Detailed Description

In order that the invention may be more fully understood, reference will now be made to the following description. This invention may, however, be embodied in many different forms and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth herein. Rather, these embodiments are provided so that this disclosure will be thorough and complete.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The terminology used in the description of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention. As used herein, the term "and/or" includes any and all combinations of one or more of the associated listed items.

1. Component screening

The efficacy of skin repair compositions (REFORCYL), low molecular weight hyaluronan silanol (EPidermosil), skin firming compositions (Biostine HP), carnosine, anti-wrinkle peptide compositions, conopeptide (XEP-18), anti-wrinkle compositions (smylift), and plant extract compositions (Rucika KSK Plus) formulated as emulsions was evaluated.

2. Formula proportion

In order to better evaluate the efficacy of the skin care composition, the skin care composition is applied to prepare skin care essence emulsion, and the formula and the process are as follows:

3. formula process

Taking example 1 as an example, 1% PHL was added as an antibacterial agent, 0.2 carbopol 20 and 0.2 arginine were added as thickeners, and deionized water was added to 100%. The preparation process of the essence comprises the following steps:

(1) weighing process water according to a process proportion;

(2) respectively weighing glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, betaine, allantoin, trehalose, smylift, EPidermosil, carbomer 20 and arginine, heating to 75-80 deg.C, stirring at 150-;

(3) respectively weighing REFORCYL and Rucika KSK Plus, heating to 60-75 ℃, stirring for 50min at 250r/min of 200-;

(4) reducing the stirring speed to 150-200r/min, reducing the temperature to 45-60 ℃, respectively weighing the anti-wrinkle peptide composition, XEP-18, and stirring for 20-30 min;

(5) reducing the temperature by 45-50 ℃, weighing the preservatives PHL and the Biostine HP at 80-100r/min, and stirring for 5 min.

4. Efficacy evaluation

The test method was carried out by connecting an elastic probe PVM600 manufactured by Courage + Khazaka, Germany (CK, Germany) to an MPA master according to a standard method and using the probe in combination with CutomerQ analysis software.

4.1 working principle of skin elasticity test probe

The test principle is based on the principle of suction and stretching, where a negative pressure is generated on the skin surface to be tested to suck the skin into a specific test probe, and the depth of the skin sucked into the test probe is measured by a non-contact optical test system. The test probe includes a light emitter and a light receiver, the ratio of light (the ratio of emitted light to received light) is proportional to the depth of skin being absorbed, thus obtaining a curve of the length of skin stretched versus time, which is then analyzed by the MPA software to determine the elastic properties of the skin.

4.2 technical parameter index of skin elasticity test probe

Host physical size: 27X25.5X7cm, probe: phi 2X10cm

Probe test hole diameter: phi 2mm

Pressure: (20-500) mbar

Test time: (0.1-60) seconds

Precision: penetration depth of about 3% above 100um, and wireless property below 100um

Power supply: 100 to 240V/50-60Hz/0.3A

Interface: USB (universal serial bus)

Test negative pressure mode: continuous negative pressure mode

Curve display mode: stretch length-time table

4.3 skin elasticity test mode-maintaining constant negative pressure

Uf＝Ue+Uv

Wherein: uf-maximum skin stretch with negative pressure.

Ue — the amount of skin stretch at 0.1 second after a constant negative pressure is applied to the skin, the amount of stretch in the elastic portion is located.

Uv-Uf-Ue is the amount of stretching of the viscoelastic part, or plastic part, of the skin.

The value of Ue is higher for skin that is more elastic than for younger skin, whereas the value of Ue is lower for skin that is less elastic than for older skin, and the value of Uv is higher for viscoelastic.

Ur＝Uf-U1.1 Ua＝Uf-U2.0

Wherein: ur-the value of elastic part Ur, i.e. the value of elastic part and the value of viscoelastic part, also called plastic part, after negative pressure is removed for 0.1 second.

Ua-the recovery value of the skin from the removal of negative pressure to the next successive test of the skin surface plus negative pressure.

The younger the skin, the more elastic the skin, the higher the elastic fraction value Ur; the older the skin, the less elastic the skin, the lower the Ur value.

4.4 skin elasticity test method

Opening the Curometer Q software, clicking the tool bar Measurement or directly clicking the upper right Measurement button, taking down the probe cover after the pump is started, clicking OK, vertically and lightly contacting the probe with the skin area to be tested within 30 seconds (the skin surface should be cleaned, if a product is smeared, the test is carried out after the product is absorbed, so as not to pollute the probe hole), starting the test until the test cycle time is over, moving the probe away, and covering the probe cover. The 3-point test was performed in the area 2.5X 2.5cm from the arm's upper arm wrist, and the average value of R2 was calculated, R2 ═ Ua/Uf. Meanwhile, the anti-fatigue degree value F4 of the skin can be calculated according to the measured data. Then, after the area was covered with a mask cloth, 0.45ml of the sample to be tested was injected into the film cloth, the film cloth was removed after applying for 20 minutes, the mask liquid was washed off after waiting for 10 minutes, and the skin elasticity value R2 and the fatigue resistance degree value F4 of the skin were measured after the skin was dried.

4.5 fibroblast assay

(1) Cell counting method

After cell suspension preparation, cells are stained with the vital dye trypan blue for cell counting. Trypan blue is unable to penetrate the normal intact cell membrane of living cells, so living cells are not stained. The cell membrane permeability of the dead cells is increased, and the dye enters the cells to stain the cells (blue).

(2) MTT staining

MTT is named as 3- (4,5-dimethyl-2-thiazolyl) -2,5-diphenyl-2-H-tetrazolium bromide, and the Chinese chemical name is 3- (4, 5-dimethylthiazole-2) -2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide, the trade name is: thiazole blue, a yellow dye. The MTT method is also called MTT colorimetric method, and is a method for detecting cell survival and growth. The detection principle is that succinate dehydrogenase in mitochondria of living cells can reduce exogenous MTT into water-insoluble blue-purple crystalline Formazan (Formazan) and deposit the blue-purple crystalline Formazan in the cells, and dead cells do not have the function. Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) can dissolve formazan in cells, and its light absorption value is measured at 540 or 720nm wavelength by ELISA detector, which can indirectly reflect living cell number. Within a certain range of cell number, MTT crystals are formed in an amount proportional to the cell number.

5. Test materials and methods

Experimental materials DMEM, DPBS, Typsin-EDTA, Petri dish, 96well dish, 0.4% trypan blue solution, absolute ethyl alcohol or 95% ethyl alcohol solution, common microscope, cell counting plate, pipette, MTT, DMSO

The experimental method comprises the following steps:

fibroblast cell culture

(1) Treating cultured fibroblast with Typsin-EDTA, collecting, suspending with DMEM, counting with a hemocytometer, and diluting to 5 × 10 cell concentration⁴cells/ml for use

(2) The prepared cell suspension was aliquoted into 96well dish and 6well dish, respectively, and cultured, wherein the inoculation amount of 96well dish was 100ul, and the inoculation amount of 6well dish was 2 ml.

(3) The cells were incubated at 37 ℃ in an incubator containing 5% CO2 for 24 hours.

Sample addition

(1) Diluting a sample to be detected by using a DMEM culture medium, wherein the diluted concentrations are as follows: 1% (this concentration passes the previous MTT test and is non-toxic)

(2) After 24 hours of cell culture, the previous DMEM was removed, and then carefully washed with DPBS (3) the DMEM medium to which the sample to be tested was added prepared in the first step is added in order.

(4) The cells were incubated at 37 ℃ in an incubator containing 5% CO2 for 48 hours.

Cell counting

(1) Counting plate treatment

Wiping the counting plate with absolute ethyl alcohol or 95% ethyl alcohol solution, wiping the counting plate with silk cloth, wiping another cover glass sheet, and covering the cover glass on the counting plate.

(2) Dyeing process

The cells cultured in 6well dish were removed from the medium, digested with typsin-EDTA, collected and suspended in DMEM medium. 10ul of 0.4% trypan blue stain and 10ul of cell suspension were pipetted with a pipette and mixed well. Slowly injecting from the edge of the counting plate to fill the gap between the counting plate and the cover plate. The counting plate was placed under a low power mirror (10X 10 times) to observe the counting.

(3) Counting method

The number of cells in the four large squares (16 small squares per large square) of the counting plate was counted as shown. When counting, only intact cells are counted, and if cells are aggregated, the cells are counted as one cell. In a large square, if any cells are on-line, the off-line cells are generally counted without the on-line cells, and the left-line cells are counted without the right-line cells. Under the observation of the microscope, the cells with strong refractivity and no coloration are live cells, and the cells with blue coloration are dead cells.

(4) Conversion of the count

After counting, the number of cells per ml of suspension was converted. Since the area of each square in the counting plate is 0.01cm²Height of 0.01cm, so that its volume is 0.0001cm³I.e. 0.1mm³. Since 1ml is 1000mm³Therefore, the number of cells in each large square × 10000 ═ cell number/ml, and thus can be calculated as follows: cell suspension cell number/ml-4 big lattice cell total number/4 × 10000

If the sample is diluted before counting, the dilution factor can be multiplied. After counting the cells, the concentration of the cells in the cell suspension is calculated. The cell proliferation rate of each sample was calculated based on the blank.

MTT staining

(1) The MTT powder stored in the frozen state was dissolved in DPBS to prepare a solution having a concentration of 2 mg/ml.

(2) After 48 hours of culture in 96well dish, 50ul/well of MTT solution was added after removing the medium

(3) Culturing at 37 deg.C in 5% CO2 incubator for 3 hr

(4) MTT solution was completely removed after 3 hours

(5) After the MTT solution was completely removed, 100ul/well of DMSO solution was added to each well to dissolve formazan blue-violet crystal (formazan crystal)

(6) Absorbance was measured at 595 nm.

(7) The cell proliferation rate of each sample was calculated based on the blank.

6. Data analysis

(1) Skin elasticity (R2) test results

(2) Skin fatigue resistance (F4) test results

Sample (I)	F4 decrement (%)
		Blank sample	3.97
Comparative group 1	3.47
		Comparative group 2	4.46
Comparative group 3	11.80
		Comparative group 4	11.46
Comparative group 5	15.76
		Comparative group 6	15.35
Comparative group 7	13.73
		Comparative group 8	10.21
Example 1	18.94
		Example 2	17.95
Example 3	20.33

And (3) knotting: the CK probe is used for evaluating the skin elasticity and the fatigue resistance, the skin careful composition has obvious advantages in the aspects of timely improving the skin tightness and the fatigue resistance, the skin elasticity can be improved by 3.3-4.34% by smearing a sample for 30min, and the skin fatigue resistance is reduced by 17.95-20.33%.

(3) Results of cell counting experiments

(4) MTT staining test results

Sample (I)	Cell proliferation Rate (%)
		Comparative group 1	17.76
Comparative group 2	16.82
		Comparative group 3	17.76
Comparative group 4	23.36
		Comparative group 5	36.45
Comparative group 6	42.99
		Comparative group 7	48.60
Comparative group 8	36.17
		Example 1	64.49
Example 2	50.47
		Example 3	63.55

And (3) knotting: the skin refining composition is applied to fibroblasts, and through cell counting and MTT chromosome evaluation, the skin refining composition provided by the invention has the advantages that the number of the fibroblasts can be remarkably increased to 48.28-58.88%, and the proliferation rate of the fibroblasts is 50.47% -64.49%.

The technical features of the embodiments described above may be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the embodiments described above are not described, but should be considered as being within the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.

The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims

1. A skin care composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:

the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid in the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid silanol is less than 10000 kda;

2. The skin care composition according to claim 1, comprising the following components in parts by weight:

3. the skin care composition according to claim 1, comprising the following components in parts by weight:

4. the skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the rosa griseus extract to the gynostemma pentaphyllum extract in the skin repair composition is 1-3: 1-3.

5. The skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the anti-wrinkle peptide composition comprises tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and pentapeptide-1 in a mass ratio of 1-3:1-3: 1-3.

6. The skin smoothing composition of claim 1, wherein the wrinkle-reducing composition comprises the β -glucan, the barley seed extract, and the hyaluronic acid in a mass ratio of 1-3:1-3: 1-3.

7. Use of the skin care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for the preparation of a cosmetic.

8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the cosmetic product is selected from a cleanser, a lotion, a cream, a serum, a mask or a makeup.

9. A cosmetic comprising the skin care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.