CN107245787B - 一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料 - Google Patents

一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料 Download PDF

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CN107245787B
CN107245787B CN201710486979.1A CN201710486979A CN107245787B CN 107245787 B CN107245787 B CN 107245787B CN 201710486979 A CN201710486979 A CN 201710486979A CN 107245787 B CN107245787 B CN 107245787B
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应杰
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Shandong Hengli Textile Technology Co., Ltd
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Ningbo High Tech Zone Dosulin Industrial Technology Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，该面料的由经线和纬线采用一上一下平纹组织交织，经线选用蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱，纬线选用改性竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱，经热定型，防皱柔软后整理制备而成。有益效果为：本发明面料吸汗性能优良，透气性能优异，可有效的控制运动出汗引起的粘附感，具有良好的清凉感、抗菌性和抗紫外线性；防皱效果好，易于上色，具有平滑柔软的手感，耐洗涤，具有良好的穿着舒适性，使人们穿着更健康；无需考虑布料裁剪、缝制、整烫后的收缩，便于生产，加工工艺简单，操作控制方便，质量稳定，生产效率高，易于大规模工业化生产。

Description

一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料
技术领域
本发明涉及服装面料领域，特别涉及一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料。
背景技术
人体是一个开放的、具有较强适应性的机体系统。当环境发生变化时，人体最快的适应性反应是循环系统的变化，它把体内产生的热量携带到皮肤，通过出汗蒸发来增加散热。如果汗液不能有效地传递并蒸发，使得体内聚集大量的热，将影响到人体的舒适感，还可能因为体温过高引发疲劳和颤抖反应，甚至降低人体运动能力。人体一直在通过气态汗损失水分，这对保持人体热平衡和舒适性非常重要，这一过程取决于人体状态和周围的气候环境，也受到服装物理性能很大程度上的影响，服装是环境和人体热湿交换的交互媒介。服装不仅是覆盖在皮肤上的一个被动体，而且能和因运动状态不同而发生变化的皮肤热调节功能相互作用，并且对后者起调节作用，服装的热湿传递属性是决定运动中人体积聚的热量以及产生的汗液能被积极传递到服装外，从而散热散湿，提高舒适性，还是被阻止在服装-人体微环境内，降低人体热湿舒适感的关键因素。在环境温度较高的情况下，尤其是周围环境温度接近人体体表温度的时候，人体在运动过程中汗液的蒸发成为重要的因素，而作为人体和周围环境热湿传递媒介的服装，其湿传递属性对运动中人体的散热散湿具有非常重要的意义。因此，如何在室外高温中保持持久的凉爽感，成为普通百姓所关注的问题。面对着来自终端消费者的此种需求，功能凉感吸汗服装面料便应运而生，此外，夏季天气炎热，皮肤容易出汗而敏感，因此要求面料柔软度高、对皮肤无刺激作用。
现有技术如授权公告号为CN 102965792 B的中国发明专利，公开了一种天然抗菌吸湿快干功能性交织医用纺织面料，该面料由经线和纬线采用一上一下平纹组织交织而成，经线选用COOLMAX纤维/甲壳素粘胶纤维混纺纱，纬线选用棉纤维/汉麻纤维/银纤维混纺纱。该面料成面料具有超强吸湿快干、抗静电、防辐射、尺寸稳定、耐洗涤、穿着舒适、凉爽等特性，可用于医用上的夏天的职业服装，但该面料柔软性不够，不适于夏季普通服饰，应用范围窄。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种吸汗效果好、柔软性高、对皮肤无刺激作用、穿着清爽舒服、加工工艺简单的清凉吸汗夏季服装面料。
本发明针对上述技术中提到的问题，采取的技术方案为：一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，制作方法包括改性竹纤维制备、混纺纱制备、基布准备、热定型、后整理液配制、后整理，具体步骤为：
改性竹纤维制备：将竹纤维用浓度为18～23g/L的特氟隆溶液浸渍，特氟隆溶液中含有重量分数为0.03～0.08wt％的活性多肽，浴比为1:40～50，轧余率为70～80％，脱水，在90～100℃条件下烘干20～30min，然后100～110℃烘焙4～7min，活性多肽的氨基酸序列为HSHACKLCVCVNCFCCGCYLCRVLHPGKLCCSK，该活性多肽一端是具有亲水性的亲水基团，能够破坏竹纤维中细胞壁，改变竹纤维的渗透压，促进特氟隆溶液进入纤维内部，对纤维进行改性，且无毒副作用，不刺激皮肤，对环境无污染，该步骤对竹纤维进行疏水改性，在保留竹纤维本身良好的吸湿性的同时，使纤维表面具有拒水性，达到迅速吸湿和快速放湿的效果，且对纤维的吸湿平衡回潮率无太大影响，也能在保持竹纤维本身良好的透气性及除菌除臭性能；
混纺纱制备：按重量份将蜂窝微孔改性涤纶40～50份、玉石纤维5～10份、粘胶纤维10～15份混纺成蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱，按重量份将改性竹纤维20～30份、麻纤维25～35份、大豆蛋白纤维5～10份混纺成竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱，蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱表面和内部存在大量蜂窝状微孔，吸湿导湿性能优良，透气性能优异，具有良好的清凉感、抗菌性和抗紫外线性，对人体不仅不会造成负面影响，更能起到有益健康的作用，改性竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱兼具吸汗和快干的优点，可有效的控制运动出汗引起的粘附感，具有良好的穿着舒适性，使人们穿着更健康，且具有一定的防除菌臭性；
基布准备：将纤维上机织造，由经线和纬线采用一上一下平纹组织交织得到基布，经线选用蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱，纬线选用改性竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱，牵拉值为4～6，机速0.5～1m/s；
热定型：将基布在180～190℃下热定型20～40s，该步骤可减布料受缝制整烫所产生的收缩，防止做出来的衣服产生尺寸变化或变型，使布料裁剪得以顺利进行，无需考虑布料裁剪、缝制、整烫后的收缩，便于生产，提高产品的附加值；
后整理液配制：整理液的成分及其重量份为：环亚乙基脲1～5份、双十八烷二甲基氯化铵20～30份、吐温80 5～10份、十六醇15～20份、聚氨酯5～10份、水20～30份，按配方量取各组分混合均匀即可，该整理液能与纤维交联，有效地保持纤维聚合物链分子彼此连接，使链上分子之间能保持在相对的位置上，加强面料的防皱性，且容易吸附在面料表面，对面料亲和力强，使面料具有平滑柔软的手感，耐洗涤；
后整理：将基布投入整理液制，浴比为1:35～45，一浸一轧，压辊压力1.0×105～3.0×105Pa，取出在70～80℃预烘10～15min，然后120～130℃条件下罐蒸1～3min，即得清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，该面料吸汗效果佳，透气性好，穿着清凉舒服，防皱效果好，易于上色，耐水洗，提高了面料档次，扩大应用范围，且加工工艺简单，操作控制方便，质量稳定，生产效率高，易于大规模工业化生产。
与现有技术相比，本发明的优点在于：1)本发明面料吸湿导湿性能优良，透气性能优异，可有效的控制运动出汗引起的粘附感，具有良好的清凉感、抗菌性和抗紫外线性，对人体不仅不会造成负面影响，更能起到有益健康的作用；2)防皱效果好，易于上色，具有平滑柔软的手感，耐洗涤，具有良好的穿着舒适性，使人们穿着更健康，且具有一定的防除菌臭性；3)无需考虑布料裁剪、缝制、整烫后的收缩，便于生产，提高面料的附加值，且加工工艺简单，操作控制方便，质量稳定，生产效率高，易于大规模工业化生产。
具体实施方式
下面通过实施例对本发明方案作进一步说明：
实施例1：
一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，制作方法包括改性竹纤维制备、混纺纱制备、基布准备、热定型、后整理液配制、后整理，具体步骤为：
1)改性竹纤维制备：将竹纤维用浓度为22g/L的特氟隆溶液浸渍，特氟隆溶液中含有重量分数为0.035wt％的活性多肽，浴比为1:42，轧余率为73％，脱水，在98℃条件下烘干23min，然后110℃烘焙5min，活性多肽的氨基酸序列为HSHACKLCVCVNCFCCGCYLCRVLHPGKLCCSK，该活性多肽一端是具有亲水性的亲水基团，能够破坏竹纤维中细胞壁，改变竹纤维的渗透压，促进特氟隆溶液进入纤维内部，对纤维进行改性，且无毒副作用，不刺激皮肤，对环境无污染，该步骤对竹纤维进行疏水改性，在保留竹纤维本身良好的吸湿性的同时，使纤维表面具有拒水性，达到迅速吸湿和快速放湿的效果，且对纤维的吸湿平衡回潮率无太大影响，也能在保持竹纤维本身良好的透气性及除菌除臭性能；
2)混纺纱制备：按重量份将蜂窝微孔改性涤纶45份、玉石纤维8份、粘胶纤维12份混纺成蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱，按重量份将改性竹纤维28份、麻纤维30份、大豆蛋白纤维8份混纺成竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱，蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱表面和内部存在大量蜂窝状微孔，吸湿导湿性能优良，透气性能优异，具有良好的清凉感、抗菌性和抗紫外线性，对人体不仅不会造成负面影响，更能起到有益健康的作用，改性竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱兼具吸汗和快干的优点，可有效的控制运动出汗引起的粘附感，具有良好的穿着舒适性，使人们穿着更健康，且具有一定的防除菌臭性；
3)基布准备：将纤维上机织造，由经线和纬线采用一上一下平纹组织交织得到基布，经线选用蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱，纬线选用改性竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱，牵拉值为5，机速0.8m/s；
4)热定型：将基布在185℃下热定型30s，该步骤可减布料受缝制整烫所产生的收缩，防止做出来的衣服产生尺寸变化或变型，使布料裁剪得以顺利进行，无需考虑布料裁剪、缝制、整烫后的收缩，便于生产，提高产品的附加值；
5)后整理液配制：整理液的成分及其重量份为：环亚乙基脲4份、双十八烷二甲基氯化铵25份、吐温80 6份、十六醇17份、聚氨酯8份、水25份，按配方量取各组分混合均匀即可，该整理液能与纤维交联，有效地保持纤维聚合物链分子彼此连接，使链上分子之间能保持在相对的位置上，加强面料的防皱性，且容易吸附在面料表面，对面料亲和力强，使面料具有平滑柔软的手感，耐洗涤；
6)后整理：将基布投入整理液制，浴比为1:38，一浸一轧，压辊压力2.0×105Pa，取出在75℃预烘12min，然后125℃条件下罐蒸2min，即得清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，该面料吸汗效果佳，透气性好，穿着清凉舒服，防皱效果好，易于上色，耐水洗，提高了面料档次，扩大应用范围，且加工工艺简单，操作控制方便，质量稳定，生产效率高，易于大规模工业化生产。
实施例2：
一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，制作方法包括改性竹纤维制备、混纺纱制备、基布准备、热定型、后整理液配制、后整理，具体步骤为：
1)改性竹纤维制备：将竹纤维用浓度为20g/L的特氟隆溶液浸渍，特氟隆溶液中含有重量分数为0.05wt％的活性多肽，浴比为1:42，轧余率为76％，脱水，在98℃条件下烘干22min，然后108℃烘焙6min，活性多肽的氨基酸序列为HSHACKLCVCVNCFCCGCYLCRVLHPGKLCVCNCSK，该活性多肽一端是具有亲水性的亲水基团，能够破坏竹纤维中细胞壁，改变竹纤维的渗透压，促进特氟隆溶液进入纤维内部，对纤维进行改性，且无毒副作用，不刺激皮肤，对环境无污染，该步骤对竹纤维进行疏水改性，在保留竹纤维本身良好的吸湿性的同时，使纤维表面具有拒水性，达到迅速吸湿和快速放湿的效果，且对纤维的吸湿平衡回潮率无太大影响，也能在保持竹纤维本身良好的透气性及除菌除臭性能；
2)混纺纱制备：按重量份将蜂窝微孔改性涤纶45份、玉石纤维6份、粘胶纤维12份混纺成蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱，按重量份将改性竹纤维25份、麻纤维30份、大豆蛋白纤维8份混纺成竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱，蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱表面和内部存在大量蜂窝状微孔，吸湿导湿性能优良，透气性能优异，具有良好的清凉感、抗菌性和抗紫外线性，对人体不仅不会造成负面影响，更能起到有益健康的作用，改性竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱兼具吸汗和快干的优点，可有效的控制运动出汗引起的粘附感，具有良好的穿着舒适性，使人们穿着更健康，且具有一定的防除菌臭性；
3)基布准备：将纤维上机织造，由经线和纬线采用一上一下平纹组织交织得到基布，经线选用蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱，纬线选用改性竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱，牵拉值为4，机速0.8m/s；
4)热定型：将基布在190℃下热定型40s，该步骤可减布料受缝制整烫所产生的收缩，防止做出来的衣服产生尺寸变化或变型，使布料裁剪得以顺利进行，无需考虑布料裁剪、缝制、整烫后的收缩，便于生产，提高产品的附加值；
5)后整理液配制：整理液的成分及其重量份为：环亚乙基脲2份、双十八烷二甲基氯化铵25份、吐温80 8份、十六醇18份、聚氨酯8份、水25份，按配方量取各组分混合均匀即可，该整理液能与纤维交联，有效地保持纤维聚合物链分子彼此连接，使链上分子之间能保持在相对的位置上，加强面料的防皱性，且容易吸附在面料表面，对面料亲和力强，使面料具有平滑柔软的手感，耐洗涤；
6)后整理：将基布投入整理液制，浴比为1:40，一浸一轧，压辊压力2.5×105Pa，取出在75℃预烘12min，然后130℃条件下罐蒸2min，即得清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，该面料吸汗效果佳，透气性好，穿着清凉舒服，防皱效果好，易于上色，耐水洗，提高了面料档次，扩大应用范围，且加工工艺简单，操作控制方便，质量稳定，生产效率高，易于大规模工业化生产。
实施例3：
清凉吸汗夏季服装面料性能测试：
将实施例1、实施例2的面料设为试验组，普通市售面料设为对照组，分别进行清凉感测试和吸汗性测试。
清凉感测试：接触冷暖感测试仪以瞬间接触凉感Q-max为指标：通过模拟手接触面料后产生的热量的变化来计算凉感的程度，计算结果如表1所示。
吸汗性测试：参照《GB/T 14576-2009纺织品色牢度试验耐光、汗复合色牢度》配制汗液，将待测试的面料置于汗液中完全润湿5min后取出自然悬挂，当两滴水落下的时间间隔超过30s时，可以认为试样已经不再滴水，立即称取试样的重量，计算面料吸汗率，结果如表1。
表1：清凉感测试和吸汗性测试结果
项目 清凉感Q-max(W/m<sup>2</sup>) 吸汗率(％)
实施例1 0.132 312.8
实施例1 0.128 318.7
对照组 0.098 135.4
由表1可知，本发明面料的清凉感Q-max和吸汗率远远大于对照组，说明本发明面料清凉效果佳、吸汗效果好，适用于夏季服装。
本发明的操作步骤中的常规操作为本领域技术人员所熟知，在此不进行赘述。
以上所述的实施例对本发明的技术方案进行了详细说明，应理解的是以上所述仅为本发明的具体实施例，并不用于限制本发明，凡在本发明的原则范围内所做的任何修改、补充或类似方式替代等，均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
SEQUENCE LISTING
<110> 宁波高新区达康工业科技有限公司
<120> 一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料
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<170> PatentIn version 3.5
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Claims (7)

1.一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，面料的制作方法包括改性竹纤维制备、混纺纱制备、基布准备、热定型、后整理液配制、后整理，其特征在于：所述的改性竹纤维制备步骤为：将竹纤维用特氟隆溶液浸渍，轧余率为70～80％，脱水，在90～100℃条件下烘干20～30min，然后100～110℃烘焙4～7min；所述的特氟隆溶液浓度为18～23g/L，特氟隆溶液中含有重量分数为0.03～0.08wt％的活性多肽，浴比为1:40～50；所述的活性多肽的氨基酸序列为HSHACKLCVCVNCFCCGCYLCRVLHPGKLCCSK；所述的基布准备步骤中经线选用蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱，纬线选用改性竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，其特征在于：所述的混纺纱制备步骤中蜂窝微孔改性涤纶/玉石纤维/粘胶纤维混纺纱中包括：蜂窝微孔改性涤纶40～50重量份、玉石纤维5～10重量份、粘胶纤维10～15重量份。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，其特征在于：所述的混纺纱制备步骤中竹纤维/麻纤维/大豆蛋白纤维混纺纱中包括：改性竹纤维20～30重量份、麻纤维25～35重量份、大豆蛋白纤维5～10重量份。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，其特征在于：所述的热定型步骤中热定型温度为180～190℃，时间为20～40s。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，其特征在于：所述的后整理液配制步骤中整理液的成分及其重量份为：环亚乙基脲1～5份、双十八烷二甲基氯化铵20～30份、吐温80 5～10份、十六醇15～20份、聚氨酯5～10份、水20～30份。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，其特征在于：所述的后整理骤中压辊压力为1.0×105～3.0×105Pa。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种清凉吸汗夏季服装面料，其特征在于：所述的后整理骤中罐蒸温度为120～130℃，时间为1～3min。
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