CN105780359A - 一种保暖且柔软的牛仔布的制作工艺 - Google Patents

一种保暖且柔软的牛仔布的制作工艺 Download PDF

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CN105780359A
CN105780359A CN201610136548.8A CN201610136548A CN105780359A CN 105780359 A CN105780359 A CN 105780359A CN 201610136548 A CN201610136548 A CN 201610136548A CN 105780359 A CN105780359 A CN 105780359A
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denim
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softening agent
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蒋岑章
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TAICANG QIDE GARMENT CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种保暖且柔软的牛仔布的制作工艺的具体步骤如下:进布‑吃水渗透‑整纬、超喂‑烘烤‑酵素洗‑清洗增白‑上柔软剂‑定型‑成型,该工艺能够有效地提高透气性、降低遮光性、避免面料透视、质感柔软轻薄的超柔软牛仔面料,并且能有效减少牛仔布掉色的情况发生,保证牛仔布的缩率和克重的稳定性,定型性好,给制作衣物创造了最佳的布面条件,使牛仔面料兼具传统的保暖功能和现代的时尚元素。

Description

一种保暖且柔软的牛仔布的制作工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织领域,具体是一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺。
背景技术
牛仔布是一种较粗厚的色织经面斜纹棉布。始于美国西部,放牧人员用以制作衣裤而得名,质地紧密,厚实,色泽鲜艳,织纹清晰,牛仔布的年产量超过20亿米。过去,美国以生产纬向弹力牛仔布为主,欧洲则大多为经向弹力或经纬双向弹力牛仔布;人们不断研发具有时尚变化的牛仔布,通过染色和整理获得新颖的外观、手感和性能。
20世纪70年代末以来,牛仔布在中国经过多次大发展,已成为国际上牛仔布的重要生产国。一大批较先进的牛仔布、牛仔服装企业,在质量和品种方面已基本与国际水准接轨,初步扭转了中国牛仔产品在国际市场上属于“低档品”的观念。
中国牛仔产品的开发生产虽起步较晚,但起步水平较高,拥有气流纺纱、自动络筒、球经染色、无梭织机(大量的是剑杆,其次是片梭,再次是喷气),重型预缩后整理机等较先进的设备,从而为牛仔布品种开发、提高质量水平创造了良好条件。然而长期以来,一些性能优良、功能齐全的设备如剑杆织机的电子多臂、多色、不均匀卷取、快速更换品种以及无人操作等功能,没有引起足够重视,造成功能浪费,这种状况亟待解决,以便更好地为开发品种、提高质量和劳动生产率服务。
牛仔服能风行世界各国,保持经久不衰的地位,除了具有耐磨、挺括、穿着舒适的独特魅力外,更重要的是因为牛仔服经返旧处理后所赋予的粗犷奔放、富有立体感和柔美感的外观效应,得到各种消费层次和不同年龄层次的青睐。牛仔布返旧整理工艺是使牛仔布具有独特风格的关键工序。
牛仔布虽然结实耐穿,但是布料花色简单,如果长期穿着牛仔面料,然而随着人们生活品质的提高,现有的牛仔布料因为只是单一的薄款,无法做到保暖的功能,因此在制作衣服领域受到应用限制。
发明内容
发明目的:为了解决现有技术的不足,本发明提供的一种保暖且柔软的牛仔布的制作工艺兼具传统的保暖功能和现代的时尚元素,解决了传统牛仔布差透气性、遮光性高、质感不柔软轻薄的情况,并且能有效减少牛仔布掉色的情况发生,保证牛仔布的缩率和克重的稳定性,定型性好,给制作衣物创造了最佳的布面条件。
技术方案:为了实现以上目的,本发明所述的一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺,该方法的具体步骤如下:
(a)进布
由进布机构以5m/s~8m/s的速度将针织牛仔布输送出来,经过可以防止针织牛仔布传输中出现卷边的导布辊;
(b)吃水渗透
经导布辊输出的针织牛仔布到达渗透水槽,使针织牛仔布在水中展开并充分渗透吃水,达到针织牛仔布的含水量为60%~80%为止,同时控制水温为50℃~90℃;
(c)整纬、超喂
将渗透后的针织牛仔布经过整纬装置矫正纬向丝绺的歪斜,拉幅机的速度控制在3m/s~4m/s;
(d)烘烤
由拉幅机将矫正纬向丝绺后的牛仔布送入温度为150℃~200℃的烘箱内烘烤10min~20min至含水率为5%~10%,将烘烤完毕的牛仔布送入反应缸内;
(e)酵素洗
在反应缸中加入1.0owf%-1.5owf%酸性纤维素酶,调节pH值到4.5-5.5,加入浮石,放入烘烤完毕的牛仔布,在温度40℃-60℃、浴比1:10-1:15的条件下处理45min-60min,调节pH值>9.5,失活处理8min~12min;
(f)清洗增白
将失活处理后的牛仔布从反应缸内取出后置于洗水缸内用清水冲洗完毕后,在水缸内放入水溶性增白剂;
(g)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从水缸内取出并再次清洗,清洗完成后置入放有柔软剂的缸内15min~30min,柔软剂和水的比例为1:50~1:100;
(h)定型
将浸泡柔软剂工序完成后的牛仔布送入定型烘箱定型,定型温度为150℃~200℃,直至含水率为3%~5%后取出,冷却、落布即可包装入库;
(i)成型
通过热压复合工艺将绒布层复合在牛仔布的背面,形成具备保暖功能的牛仔布,热压复合工艺完成后即可包装入库。
生物酶被称为生物催化剂,是一类具有催化功能的蛋白质。与一般催化剂相比,生物酶的催化效率是一般无机催化剂的103-106倍;生物酶专一性强,反应条件温和,不需要高温、高压、强酸、强碱等剧烈条件,对环境影响极小。
生物酶石磨整理选用的酶是纤维素酶,纤维素酶是一类对纤维素纤维具有降解能力的酶,能够将纤维素大分子水解为短链、低分子的寡糖和葡萄糖。由于酶分子很大,因此不能渗透到织物内部,水解作用仅在织物表面进行。用纤维素酶进行返旧整理,基本上解决了浮石水洗整理中存在的问题,同时还赋予织物独特的风格。通过纤维素酶对纤维表面的削蚀作用,使纤维表面被磨损、染料被剥离,产生水洗石磨的外观,从而达到牛仔布所具有的仿旧感效果。如果结合石磨,风格特别。
作为本发明的进一步优选,步骤a中的导布辊上设有细凹槽,使牛仔布在水中展开充分渗透吃水,保证针织牛仔布的缩率和克重的稳定,从而给针织牛仔布定型创造最佳的布面条件,针织牛仔布的品种范围大大增加。
作为本发明的进一步优选,步骤e中的浮石和牛仔布的重量比为1:3~1:4,浮石和纤维素酶配合使用对纤维结构产生降解作用,使布面可以较温和地褪色,褪毛,产生“桃皮”效果,并得到持久的柔软效果。
作为本发明的进一步优选,增白剂的为二苯乙烯型增白剂、吡唑啉型增白剂或苯二甲酰亚胺型增白剂,把牛仔布吸收的不可见的紫外线辐射转变成紫蓝色的荧光辐射,与原有的黄光辐射互为补色成为白光,提高产品在日光下的白。
作为本发明的进一步优选,步骤h中的柔软剂为酯基季铵盐柔软剂、脂肪酸酯型柔软剂、右蜡型柔软剂或聚乙烯型柔软剂,纺织品在加工过程中,经多次处理后手感会变得粗糙,一般合成纤维织物更差,尤其是超细纤维织物。为了使织物具有柔软、滑爽、舒适的手感,就需要对其进行整理,应用广泛的是用柔软剂进行整理。
作为本发明的进一步优选,所述的绒布层的材料为摇粒绒、羊羔绒或珊瑚绒,该材质蓬松密集而又不易掉毛、起球,反面拉毛疏稀匀称,绒毛短少,组织纹理清晰、蓬松弹性特好,它的成份一般是全涤的,手感柔软,成本低,是近两个国内冬天御寒的首选产品。
有益效果:本发明提供的一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺,与现有技术相比,具有以下优点:
(1)通过在定型机上加装了渗透水槽,使牛仔布在水中展开充分渗透吃水,保证针织牛仔布的缩率和克重的稳定,从而给针织牛仔布定型创造最佳的布面条件,针织牛仔布的品种范围大大增加;
(2)通过两次烘烤牛仔布中的水分,使牛仔布在褪色退毛后,该牛仔布面料保持初始的状态,有效减少牛仔布掉色、掉毛的情况发生;
(3)通过两次烘烤蒸发牛仔布中的水分,使牛仔布的定型性好,给制作衣物创造了最佳的布面条件;
(4)在牛仔面料的反面加设绒布层,使牛仔面料兼具传统的保暖功能和现代的时尚元素。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例,进一步阐明本发明。
本发明所述的一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺的具体步骤如下:进布-吃水渗透-整纬、超喂-烘烤-酵素洗-清洗增白-上柔软剂-定型-成型。
实施例1
柔软牛仔布的制作工艺的具体步骤如下:
(a)进布
由进布机构以5m/s的速度将针织牛仔布输送出来,经过可以防止牛仔布传输中出现卷边的带有细凹槽的导布辊;
(b)吃水渗透
经导布辊输出的针织牛仔布到达渗透水槽,使针织牛仔布在水中展开并充分渗透吃水,达到针织牛仔布的含水量为60%为止,同时控制水温为50℃;
(c)整纬、超喂
将渗透后的针织牛仔布经过整纬装置矫正纬向丝绺的歪斜,拉幅机的速度控制在3m/s;
(d)烘烤
由拉幅机将矫正纬向丝绺后的牛仔布送入温度为150℃的烘箱内烘烤10min至含水率为5%,将烘烤完毕的牛仔布送入反应缸内;
(e)酵素洗
在反应缸中加入1.0owf%酸性纤维素酶,调节pH值到4.5,加入浮石,浮石和牛仔布的重量比为1:3,放入烘烤完毕的牛仔布,在温度40℃、浴比1:10的条件下处理45min,调节pH值>9.5,失活处理8min;
(f)清洗增白
将失活处理后的牛仔布从反应缸内取出后置于洗水缸内用清水冲洗完毕后,在水缸内放入二苯乙烯型增白剂;
(g)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从水缸内取出并再次清洗,清洗完成后置入放有酯基季铵盐柔软剂的缸内15min,酯基季铵盐柔软剂和水的比例为1:50;
(h)定型
将浸泡柔软剂工序完成后的牛仔布送入定型烘箱定型,定型温度为150℃,直至含水率为3%后取出,冷却、落布即可包装入库;
(i)成型
通过热压复合工艺将由摇粒绒制成的绒布层复合在牛仔布的背面,形成具备保暖功能的牛仔布,热压复合工艺完成后即可包装入库。
实施例2
柔软牛仔布的制作工艺的具体步骤如下:
(a)进布
由进布机构以6m/s的速度将针织牛仔布输送出来,经过可以防止牛仔布传输中出现卷边的带有细凹槽的导布辊;
(b)吃水渗透
经导布辊输出的针织牛仔布到达渗透水槽,使针织牛仔布在水中展开并充分渗透吃水,达到针织牛仔布的含水量为70%为止,同时控制水温为80℃;
(c)整纬、超喂
将渗透后的针织牛仔布经过整纬装置矫正纬向丝绺的歪斜,拉幅机的速度控制在3.5m/s;
(d)烘烤
由拉幅机将矫正纬向丝绺后的牛仔布送入温度为180℃的烘箱内烘烤15min至含水率为8%,将烘烤完毕的牛仔布送入反应缸内;
(e)酵素洗
在反应缸中加入1.3owf%酸性纤维素酶,调节pH值到5,加入浮石,浮石和牛仔布的重量比为1:35,放入烘烤完毕的牛仔布,在温度450℃、浴比1:12的条件下处理50min,调节pH值>9.5,失活处理10min;
(f)清洗增白
将失活处理后的牛仔布从反应缸内取出后置于洗水缸内用清水冲洗完毕后,在水缸内放入吡唑啉型增白剂;
(g)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从水缸内取出并再次清洗,清洗完成后置入放有脂肪酸酯型柔软剂的缸内15min~30min,脂肪酸酯型柔软剂和水的比例为1:80;
(h)定型
将浸泡柔软剂工序完成后的牛仔布送入定型烘箱定型,定型温度为190℃,直至含水率为4%后取出,冷却、落布即可包装入库;
(i)成型
通过热压复合工艺将由珊瑚绒制成的绒布层复合在牛仔布的背面,形成具备保暖功能的牛仔布,热压复合工艺完成后即可包装入库。
实施例3
柔软牛仔布的制作工艺的具体步骤如下:
(a)进布
由进布机构以8m/s的速度将针织牛仔布输送出来,经过可以防止牛仔布传输中出现卷边的带有细凹槽的导布辊;
(b)吃水渗透
经导布辊输出的针织牛仔布到达渗透水槽,使针织牛仔布在水中展开并充分渗透吃水,达到针织牛仔布的含水量为80%为止,同时控制水温为90℃;
(c)整纬、超喂
将渗透后的针织牛仔布经过整纬装置矫正纬向丝绺的歪斜,拉幅机的速度控制在4m/s;
(d)烘烤
由拉幅机将矫正纬向丝绺后的牛仔布送入温度为200℃的烘箱内烘烤20min至含水率为10%,将烘烤完毕的牛仔布送入反应缸内;
(e)酵素洗
在反应缸中加入1.5owf%酸性纤维素酶,调节pH值到5.5,加入浮石,浮石和牛仔布的重量比为1:4,放入烘烤完毕的牛仔布,在温度60℃、浴比1:10-1:15的条件下处理60min,调节pH值>9.5,失活处理12min;
(f)清洗增白
将失活处理后的牛仔布从反应缸内取出后置于洗水缸内用清水冲洗完毕后,在水缸内放入苯二甲酰亚胺型增白剂;
(g)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从水缸内取出并再次清洗,清洗完成后置入放有聚乙烯型柔软剂的缸内15min~30min,聚乙烯型柔软剂和水的比例为1:100;
(h)定型
将浸泡柔软剂工序完成后的牛仔布送入定型烘箱定型,定型温度为200℃,直至含水率为5%后取出,冷却、落布即可包装入库;
(i)成型
通过热压复合工艺将由羊羔绒制成的绒布层复合在牛仔布的背面,形成具备保暖功能的牛仔布,热压复合工艺完成后即可包装入库。
上述实施例只为说明本发明的技术构思及特点,其目的是让熟悉该技术领域的技术人员能够了解本发明的内容并据以实施,并不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。凡根据本发明精神实质所做出的等同变换或修饰,都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (6)

1.一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺,其特征在于:该方法的具体步骤如下:
(a)进布
由进布机构以5m/s~8m/s的速度将针织牛仔布输送出来,经过可以防止针织牛仔布传输中出现卷边的导布辊;
(b)吃水渗透
经导布辊输出的针织牛仔布到达渗透水槽,使针织牛仔布在水中展开并充分渗透吃水,达到针织牛仔布的含水量为60%~ 80%为止,同时控制水温为50℃~90℃;
(c)整纬、超喂
将渗透后的针织牛仔布经过整纬装置矫正纬向丝绺的歪斜,拉幅机的速度控制在3m/s~4m/s;
(d)烘烤
由拉幅机将矫正纬向丝绺后的牛仔布送入温度为150℃~200℃的烘箱内烘烤10min~20min至含水率为5%~10%,将烘烤完毕的牛仔布送入反应缸内;
(e)酵素洗
在反应缸中加入1.0owf%-1.5owf%酸性纤维素酶,调节pH值到4.5-5.5,加入浮石,放入烘烤完毕的牛仔布,在温度40℃ -60℃、浴比1:10-1:15 的条件下处理45min-60min,调节pH 值>9.5,失活处理8min~12min;
(f)清洗增白
将失活处理后的牛仔布从反应缸内取出后置于洗水缸内用清水冲洗完毕后,在水缸内放入水溶性增白剂;
(g)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从水缸内取出并再次清洗,清洗完成后置入放有柔软剂的缸内15min~30min,柔软剂和水的比例为1:50~1:100;
(h)定型
将浸泡柔软剂工序完成后的牛仔布送入定型烘箱定型,定型温度为150℃~200℃,直至含水率为3%~5%后取出,冷却、落布即可包装入库;
(i)成型
通过热压复合工艺将绒布层复合在牛仔布的背面,形成具备保暖功能的牛仔布,热压复合工艺完成后即可包装入库。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺,其特征在于:步骤a中的导布辊上设有凹槽。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺,其特征在于:步骤e中的浮石和牛仔布的重量比为1:3~1:4。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺,其特征在于:增白剂的为:二苯乙烯型增白剂、吡唑啉型增白剂或苯二甲酰亚胺型增白剂。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种柔软牛仔布的制作工艺,其特征在于:步骤h中的柔软剂为酯基季铵盐柔软剂、脂肪酸酯型柔软剂、右蜡型柔软剂或聚乙烯型柔软剂。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种彩色保暖牛仔布的制作工艺,其特征在于:步骤i中所述的绒布层的材料为摇粒绒、羊羔绒或珊瑚绒。
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