CN105774083A - 新型条纹面料及其工艺 - Google Patents

新型条纹面料及其工艺 Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105774083A
CN105774083A CN201610151606.4A CN201610151606A CN105774083A CN 105774083 A CN105774083 A CN 105774083A CN 201610151606 A CN201610151606 A CN 201610151606A CN 105774083 A CN105774083 A CN 105774083A
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fabric
fiber
wool
water
sample
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赵平宝
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JIANGYIN CHUNZHILAN SPECIAL YARN Co Ltd
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JIANGYIN CHUNZHILAN SPECIAL YARN Co Ltd
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/08—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer the fibres or filaments of a layer being of different substances, e.g. conjugate fibres, mixture of different fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B3/00—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form
    • B32B3/26—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer
    • B32B3/266—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer characterised by an apertured layer, the apertures going through the whole thickness of the layer, e.g. expanded metal, perforated layer, slit layer regular cells B32B3/12
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B3/00—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form
    • B32B3/26—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer
    • B32B3/30—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer characterised by a layer formed with recesses or projections, e.g. hollows, grooves, protuberances, ribs
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B33/00—Layered products characterised by particular properties or particular surface features, e.g. particular surface coatings; Layered products designed for particular purposes not covered by another single class
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/30—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being formed of particles, e.g. chips, granules, powder
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0276—Polyester fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/08—Animal fibres, e.g. hair, wool, silk
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/20—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular electrical or magnetic properties, e.g. piezoelectric
    • B32B2307/21—Anti-static
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/30—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular thermal properties
    • B32B2307/304—Insulating
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2437/00—Clothing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

本发明涉及新型条纹面料及其工艺，其特征在于：包括面料本体，所述面料本体表面设有细纹面料层，细纹面料层与面料本体用线连接，所述细纹面料层上分布粗纹长方形短条布，所述短条布在水平方向上交错排列，并用线固定在细纹面料层上，所述面料本体的底面设有绒毛层，绒毛层底面设有防静电层。本发明新型条纹面料及其工艺中短条布凸出细纹面料层的所在平面，增强了条纹面料的层次感，绒毛层增强了条纹面料的保暖性，同时防静电层提高了防静电性。

Description

新型条纹面料及其工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及新型条纹面料及其工艺，属于面料技术领域。
背景技术
传统的面料通常为单层结构，功能较为单一。近几年随着纺织工业的发展，出现了双层面料，双层面料为三维结构，具有立体层次感，厚实度和强度都比较好，但不具备防静电功能。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足，提供立体层次感较好的新型条纹面料及其工艺。
本发明的目的是这样实现的：
新型条纹面料及其工艺，包括面料本体，所述面料本体表面设有细纹面料层，细纹面料层与面料本体用线连接，所述细纹面料层上分布粗纹长方形短条布，所述短条布在水平方向上交错排列，并用线固定在细纹面料层上，所述面料本体的底面设有绒毛层，绒毛层底面设有防静电层，所述防静电层上开设有下层气孔，所述细纹面料层上开设有上层气孔；
新型条纹面料及其工艺的制作工艺为：
1）、纱线品种设计：
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）、纺纱工艺：
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维，30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛（成条）→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒，其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%～55%，温度25℃～30℃；
在和毛工艺中，选用NimateCF-5和毛油，NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂，以喷雾法，添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂，使纤维具有优异的润滑性，增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性，提高了纤维的可梳理性，有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合；
在梳毛工艺中，喂毛周期掌握50s～60s，出条速度不超过100m/min，出条克重5g/m，不匀系数控制在2%以内；
在并条工艺中，纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，一并的参数8.2，二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机（D45型），下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%～1%。在这个过程中，必须要控制好牵伸倍数，总牵伸控制7.8倍，其中主牵伸4.58倍，后续牵伸1.7倍；
3）、织造工艺：
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造，在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，以2/2的斜纹为基础组织，采用单经单纬的方式上机织造，上机幅宽为178cm，上机经密为225根/10cm，纬密为216根/10cm；
4）、后整理工艺：
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品；
5）测试吸水性：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10cm×10cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管(精度0.1ml)距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表(精度≥0.1秒)，记录滴水的时间；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在面料上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：
本发明新型条纹面料及其工艺中短条布凸出细纹面料层的所在平面，增强了条纹面料的层次感，绒毛层增强了条纹面料的保暖性，同时防静电层提高了防静电性。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及新型条纹面料及其工艺，包括面料本体，所述面料本体表面设有细纹面料层，细纹面料层与面料本体用线连接，所述细纹面料层上分布粗纹长方形短条布，所述短条布在水平方向上交错排列，并用线固定在细纹面料层上，所述面料本体的底面设有绒毛层，绒毛层底面设有防静电层，所述防静电层上开设有下层气孔，所述细纹面料层上开设有上层气孔。
制作新型条纹面料及其工艺的工艺方法为：
1）、纱线品种设计：
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）、纺纱工艺：
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维，30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛（成条）→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒，其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%～55%，温度25℃～30℃；
在和毛工艺中，选用NimateCF-5和毛油，NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂，以喷雾法，添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂，使纤维具有优异的润滑性，增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性，提高了纤维的可梳理性，有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合；
在梳毛工艺中，喂毛周期掌握50s～60s，出条速度不超过100m/min，出条克重5g/m，不匀系数控制在2%以内；
在并条工艺中，纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，一并的参数8.2，二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机（D45型），下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%～1%。在这个过程中，必须要控制好牵伸倍数，总牵伸控制7.8倍，其中主牵伸4.58倍，后续牵伸1.7倍；
3）、织造工艺：
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造，在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，以2/2的斜纹为基础组织，采用单经单纬的方式上机织造，上机幅宽为178cm，上机经密为225根/10cm，纬密为216根/10cm；
4）、后整理工艺：
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品；
5）测试吸水性：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10cm×10cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管(精度0.1ml)距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表(精度≥0.1秒)，记录滴水的时间；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在面料上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。

Claims (1)

1.新型条纹面料及其工艺，其特征在于：包括面料本体，所述面料本体表面设有细纹面料层，细纹面料层与面料本体用线连接，所述细纹面料层上分布粗纹长方形短条布，所述短条布在水平方向上交错排列，并用线固定在细纹面料层上，所述面料本体的底面设有绒毛层，绒毛层底面设有防静电层，所述防静电层上开设有下层气孔，所述细纹面料层上开设有上层气孔；
新型条纹面料及其工艺的工艺方法为：
1）、纱线品种设计：
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）、纺纱工艺：
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维，30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛（成条）→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒，其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%～55%，温度25℃～30℃；
在和毛工艺中，选用NimateCF-5和毛油，NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂，以喷雾法，添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂，使纤维具有优异的润滑性，增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性，提高了纤维的可梳理性，有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合；
在梳毛工艺中，喂毛周期掌握50s～60s，出条速度不超过100m/min，出条克重5g/m，不匀系数控制在2%以内；
在并条工艺中，纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，一并的参数8.2，二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机（D45型），下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%～1%。在这个过程中，必须要控制好牵伸倍数，总牵伸控制7.8倍，其中主牵伸4.58倍，后续牵伸1.7倍；
3）、织造工艺：
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造，在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，以2/2的斜纹为基础组织，采用单经单纬的方式上机织造，上机幅宽为178cm，上机经密为225根/10cm，纬密为216根/10cm；
4）、后整理工艺：
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品；
5）测试吸水性：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10cm×10cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管(精度0.1ml)距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表(精度≥0.1秒)，记录滴水的时间；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在面料上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。
CN201610151606.4A 2016-03-17 2016-03-17 新型条纹面料及其工艺 Pending CN105774083A (zh)

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Application publication date: 20160720