CN105908323A - 褶皱面料的工艺方法 - Google Patents

褶皱面料的工艺方法 Download PDF

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CN105908323A
CN105908323A CN201610387178.5A CN201610387178A CN105908323A CN 105908323 A CN105908323 A CN 105908323A CN 201610387178 A CN201610387178 A CN 201610387178A CN 105908323 A CN105908323 A CN 105908323A
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fabric
fiber
wool
wool fiber
water
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陶峰
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Jiangyin New Quansheng Textile Printing and Dyeing Co Ltd
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Jiangyin New Quansheng Textile Printing and Dyeing Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及褶皱面料的工艺方法，这种褶皱面料的工艺方法制得的褶皱面料具双层结构，表层褶皱的立体感、层次感增强，褶皱结构更稳定、饱满，里层面料更平整、厚实，并且表层的褶皱结构也起到一定的辅助遮光功能，褶皱面料的生产方法简单、效率高、成本低，独特的褶皱风格及良好的遮光性能；同时吸水性测试的方法简单实用，测试结果快速及时，采用本方法进行吸水性测试，短时间内可以完成，有利于企业对吸水性面料生产和技术把关，测试成本低，采用本方法进行测试，不需要配置专门的检测设备。

Description

褶皱面料的工艺方法
技术领域
本发明涉及褶皱面料的工艺方法，属于服装面料技术领域。
背景技术
褶皱赋予了面料独特的视觉和触觉效果，被广泛应用于服装及装饰面料。现有双层褶皱面料的生产方法主要为使用双经轴织造或对面料进行缝制、压褶或化学糊剂印花等后整理制成，双经轴织造利用二个织轴经张力不同形成面料表面的凹凸褶皱，这种方法生产工艺复杂、对设备要求高、较难控制；对面料进行缝制、压褶或化学糊剂印花等后处理制成双层褶皱面料，其褶皱在面料使用过程中易被拉伸变形而影响美观及触感，并且这种方法效率低、成本高。
同时，由于面料具有拒水性，水份无法进行面料内部，吸水的多少将直接影响测试结果的正确性，所以以往的面料都不对其吸水性能进行测试，也就不能保证面料的排湿性能。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足，提供褶皱面料的工艺方法，该方法制得的面料褶皱稳定，面料使用过程中拉伸无形变，且褶皱风格更具层次感、立体感，面料厚实，垂感好，并具有良好的遮光效果。
本发明的目的是这样实现的：
褶皱面料的工艺方法，该面料是由一组经纱与二组纬纱交织而成的双层织物，其表层具有由凸条与凹条交错排列形成的褶皱，里层无褶皱结构；其中，凸条是由表经与表纬交织而成，所述的凹条是由表经与里纬接结而成。
面料工艺方法的具体步骤如下：
1）选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成，所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为：所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%，所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%，所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%，所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光；
3）面料先经表纬蒸煮处理工艺，所述的表纬蒸煮处理工艺为将表纬放入全封闭锅炉内以2℃~5℃/min的升温速度由室温加热至100℃~120℃，并于高温下保温10~20min；
4）面料再经过扦经、提花织造，随后在150℃温度下进行预定型；
5）将预定型后的面料进行水洗染整工艺，水洗染整工艺温度为130℃；
6）对水洗染整后的面料进行定型工艺，定型工艺的定型温度为160℃；
7）对面料的吸水性能进行测试：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10 cm×10 cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表，记录滴水时间，其中滴管精度为0.1ml，秒表的精度≥0.1秒；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在布面上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：
这种褶皱面料的工艺方法制得的褶皱面料具双层结构，表层褶皱的立体感、层次感增强，褶皱结构更稳定、饱满，里层面料更平整、厚实，并且表层的褶皱结构也起到一定的辅助遮光功能，褶皱面料的生产方法简单、效率高、成本低，独特的褶皱风格及良好的遮光性能；同时吸水性测试的方法简单实用，测试结果快速及时，采用本方法进行吸水性测试，短时间内可以完成，有利于企业对吸水性面料生产和技术把关，测试成本低，采用本方法进行测试，不需要配置专门的检测设备。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及褶皱面料的工艺方法，该面料是由一组经纱与二组纬纱交织而成的双层织物，其表层具有由凸条与凹条交错排列形成的褶皱，里层无褶皱结构；其中，凸条是由表经与表纬交织而成，所述的凹条是由表经与里纬接结而成。
面料工艺方法的具体步骤如下：
1）选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成，所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为：所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%，所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%，所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%，所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光；
3）面料先经表纬蒸煮处理工艺，所述的表纬蒸煮处理工艺为将表纬放入全封闭锅炉内以2℃~5℃/min的升温速度由室温加热至100℃~120℃，并于高温下保温10~20min；
4）面料再经过扦经、提花织造，随后在150℃温度下进行预定型；
5）将预定型后的面料进行水洗染整工艺，水洗染整工艺温度为130℃；
6）对水洗染整后的面料进行定型工艺，定型工艺的定型温度为160℃；
7）对面料的吸水性能进行测试：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10 cm×10 cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表，记录滴水时间，其中滴管精度为0.1ml，秒表的精度≥0.1秒；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在布面上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。

Claims (1)

1.褶皱面料的工艺方法，其特征在于：该面料是由一组经纱与二组纬纱交织而成的双层织物，其表层具有由凸条与凹条交错排列形成的褶皱，里层无褶皱结构；其中，凸条是由表经与表纬交织而成，所述的凹条是由表经与里纬接结而成。
面料工艺方法的具体步骤如下：
1）选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成，所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为：所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%，所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%，所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%，所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光；
3）面料先经表纬蒸煮处理工艺，所述的表纬蒸煮处理工艺为将表纬放入全封闭锅炉内以2℃~5℃/min的升温速度由室温加热至100℃~120℃，并于高温下保温10~20min；
4）面料再经过扦经、提花织造，随后在150℃温度下进行预定型；
5）将预定型后的面料进行水洗染整工艺，水洗染整工艺温度为130℃；
6）对水洗染整后的面料进行定型工艺，定型工艺的定型温度为160℃；
7）对面料的吸水性能进行测试：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10 cm×10 cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表，记录滴水时间，其中滴管精度为0.1ml，秒表的精度≥0.1秒；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在布面上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。
CN201610387178.5A 2016-06-03 2016-06-03 褶皱面料的工艺方法 Pending CN105908323A (zh)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108195999A (zh) * 2018-02-05 2018-06-22 三峡大学 一种检测布料含棉量的方法
CN111455523A (zh) * 2020-04-09 2020-07-28 无锡市红博面料馆有限公司 一种棉氨纶高弹性针织面料的制备方法

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108195999A (zh) * 2018-02-05 2018-06-22 三峡大学 一种检测布料含棉量的方法
CN111455523A (zh) * 2020-04-09 2020-07-28 无锡市红博面料馆有限公司 一种棉氨纶高弹性针织面料的制备方法
CN111455523B (zh) * 2020-04-09 2021-07-06 无锡市红博面料馆有限公司 一种棉氨纶高弹性机织面料的制备方法

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