CN106072825A - 一种服装及其工艺 - Google Patents

一种服装及其工艺 Download PDF

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CN106072825A
CN106072825A CN201610387386.5A CN201610387386A CN106072825A CN 106072825 A CN106072825 A CN 106072825A CN 201610387386 A CN201610387386 A CN 201610387386A CN 106072825 A CN106072825 A CN 106072825A
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fabric
fiber
wool
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赵平宝
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Jiangyin Chunlan Textile Co Ltd
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
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    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
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    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/47—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic Table; Vanadates; Niobates; Tantalates; Arsenates; Antimonates; Bismuthates
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    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
    • D06M13/282—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
    • D06M13/292—Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
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    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/50—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with organometallic compounds; with organic compounds containing boron, silicon, selenium or tellurium atoms
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种服装及其工艺，可以方便地查看时间，而不会感到疼痛，从而带来不少方便和舒适感，当不用钟表时可以卸下衣袖当短袖穿。使用这种衣服后，老视眼患者便可以将老花镜挂在衣服上而不需携带眼镜盒，方便了他们看文字资料，或签名写字。制得的褶皱面料具双层结构，表层褶皱的立体感、层次感增强，褶皱结构更稳定、饱满，褶皱面料的生产方法简单、效率高、成本低；同时吸水性测试的方法简单实用，测试结果快速及时，采用本方法进行吸水性测试，短时间内可以完成，有利于企业对吸水性面料生产和技术把关，测试成本低，采用本方法进行测试，不需要配置专门的检测设备。

Description

一种服装及其工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及一种服装及其工艺，属于服装面料技术领域。
背景技术
人们出门在外喜欢戴着手表，以便随时能查看时间，但手表长时间戴着会给手臂上留下印子，并带来些许疼痛感，另外有些人不把手表戴紧，这样手表便会随手臂的摆动而上下移动，同样给人带来了不适感，尤其是老年人由于健忘等原因经常不带手表出门，导致不能准确了解时间。
同时老年人通常会不同程度存在眼睛老视的问题，老视是人们步入中老年后必然出现的视觉问题，患者的眼调节能力逐渐下降从而引起视近困难。而一些花甲之年的老视眼患者常常还需要看文字资料，做一些签名写字的事情，这样便给这群不习惯时时携带老花镜的人带来困扰。
这样便导致老年人在外出或旅游时会有以上种种不便。
褶皱赋予了面料独特的视觉和触觉效果，被广泛应用于服装及装饰面料。现有双层褶皱面料的生产方法主要为使用双经轴织造或对面料进行缝制、压褶或化学糊剂印花等后整理制成，双经轴织造利用二个织轴经张力不同形成面料表面的凹凸褶皱，这种方法生产工艺复杂、对设备要求高、较难控制；对面料进行缝制、压褶或化学糊剂印花等后处理制成双层褶皱面料，其褶皱在面料使用过程中易被拉伸变形而影响美观及触感，并且这种方法效率低、成本高。
同时，由于面料具有拒水性，水份无法进行面料内部，吸水的多少将直接影响测试结果的正确性，所以以往的面料都不对其吸水性能进行测试，也就不能保证面料的排湿性能。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足，提供能够准确了解时间，并且自备老花镜，面料褶皱稳定，拉伸无形变，并具有遮光效果的一种服装及其工艺。
本发明的目的是这样实现的：
一种服装，包含有衣服本体，所述衣服本体上有两个衣袖，所述两个衣袖通过拉链与衣服本体连接，所述衣袖在前端手臂的外侧开孔并设置透明塑料，所述透明塑料的下面设置有夹层，所述夹层中放置有钟表，所述衣服本体上部为衣领，所述衣服本体上还设有吊链，所述吊链有两段，每段的一端均与衣领处固定，另一端均设有链扣。
该服装的面料是由一组经纱与二组纬纱交织而成的双层织物，其表层具有由凸条与凹条交错排列形成的褶皱，里层无褶皱结构；其中，凸条是由表经与表纬交织而成，所述的凹条是由表经与里纬接结而成。
面料制备方法的具体步骤如下：
1）选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成，所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为：所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%，所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%，所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%，所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光；
3）面料经表纬蒸煮处理工艺，所述的表纬蒸煮处理工艺为将表纬放入全封闭锅炉内以2℃~5℃/min的升温速度由室温加热至100℃~120℃，并于高温下保温10~20min；
4）面料再经过扦经、提花织造，随后在150℃温度下进行预定型；
5）将预定型后的面料进行水洗染整工艺，水洗染整工艺温度为130℃；
6）对水洗染整后的面料进行定型工艺，定型工艺的定型温度为160℃；
7）对面料的吸水性能进行测试：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10 cm×10 cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表，记录滴水时间，其中滴管精度为0.1ml，秒表的精度≥0.1秒；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在布面上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：
这一种服装及其工艺通过在手臂处设置透明塑料，并将钟表放置其下，从而可以方便地查看时间，而不会感到疼痛，从而带来不少方便和舒适感，同时衣袖为可拆卸式，当不用钟表时可以卸下衣袖当短袖穿。同时衣服上设有吊链，吊链有两段，每段的一端与衣领处固定，另一端均设有链扣，所述链扣类似于钥匙扣，用于和老花镜的镜脚扣合，从而固定住老花镜。使用这种衣服后，老视眼患者便可以将老花镜挂在衣服上而不需携带眼镜盒，方便了他们看文字资料，或签名写字。
这样制得的褶皱面料具双层结构，表层褶皱的立体感、层次感增强，褶皱结构更稳定、饱满，里层面料更平整、厚实，并且表层的褶皱结构也起到一定的辅助遮光功能，褶皱面料的生产方法简单、效率高、成本低，独特的褶皱风格及良好的遮光性能；同时吸水性测试的方法简单实用，测试结果快速及时，采用本方法进行吸水性测试，短时间内可以完成，有利于企业对吸水性面料生产和技术把关，测试成本低，采用本方法进行测试，不需要配置专门的检测设备。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及一种服装，包含有衣服本体，所述衣服本体上有两个衣袖，所述两个衣袖通过拉链与衣服本体连接，所述衣袖在前端手臂的外侧开孔并设置透明塑料，所述透明塑料的下面设置有夹层，所述夹层中放置有钟表，所述衣服本体上部为衣领，所述衣服本体上还设有吊链，所述吊链有两段，每段的一端均与衣领处固定，另一端均设有链扣，所述链扣类似于钥匙扣，它用于和老花镜的镜脚扣合，从而固定住老花镜。
该服装的面料是由一组经纱与二组纬纱交织而成的双层织物，其表层具有由凸条与凹条交错排列形成的褶皱，里层无褶皱结构；其中，凸条是由表经与表纬交织而成，所述的凹条是由表经与里纬接结而成。
面料制备方法的具体步骤如下：
1）选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成，所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为：所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%，所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%，所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%，所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光；
3）面料经表纬蒸煮处理工艺，所述的表纬蒸煮处理工艺为将表纬放入全封闭锅炉内以2℃~5℃/min的升温速度由室温加热至100℃~120℃，并于高温下保温10~20min；
4）面料再经过扦经、提花织造，随后在150℃温度下进行预定型；
5）将预定型后的面料进行水洗染整工艺，水洗染整工艺温度为130℃；
6）对水洗染整后的面料进行定型工艺，定型工艺的定型温度为160℃；
7）对面料的吸水性能进行测试：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10 cm×10 cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表，记录滴水时间，其中滴管精度为0.1ml，秒表的精度≥0.1秒；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在布面上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。

Claims (2)

1.一种服装，其特征在于：包含有衣服本体，所述衣服本体上有两个衣袖，所述两个衣袖通过拉链与衣服本体连接，所述衣袖在前端手臂的外侧开孔并设置透明塑料，所述透明塑料的下面设置有夹层，所述夹层中放置有钟表，所述衣服本体上部为衣领，所述衣服本体上还设有吊链，所述吊链有两段，每段的一端均与衣领处固定，另一端均设有链扣。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种服装的制备工艺，其特征在于：该服装的面料是由一组经纱与二组纬纱交织而成的双层织物，其表层具有由凸条与凹条交错排列形成的褶皱，里层无褶皱结构；其中，凸条是由表经与表纬交织而成，所述的凹条是由表经与里纬接结而成。
面料制备方法的具体步骤如下：
1）选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成，所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为：所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%，所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%，所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%，所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光；
3）面料经表纬蒸煮处理工艺，所述的表纬蒸煮处理工艺为将表纬放入全封闭锅炉内以2℃~5℃/min的升温速度由室温加热至100℃~120℃，并于高温下保温10~20min；
4）面料再经过扦经、提花织造，随后在150℃温度下进行预定型；
5）将预定型后的面料进行水洗染整工艺，水洗染整工艺温度为130℃；
6）对水洗染整后的面料进行定型工艺，定型工艺的定型温度为160℃；
7）对面料的吸水性能进行测试：
步骤一：在40cm通幅的面料样品上取10 cm×10 cm的样品两块作为测试试样；
步骤二：将试样放在洗涤仪容器中，加入300ml四氯乙烯作为干洗剂，密封后放到干洗仪中干洗30分钟后取出，然后重复洗涤两次；
步骤三：将干洗后的试样平置于桌面上，自然放平，滴管距离布面5±0.5cm，向布面滴入3ml蒸馏水，按下秒表，记录滴水时间，其中滴管精度为0.1ml，秒表的精度≥0.1秒；
步骤四：水滴在布面上渗透到面料里面，在布面上会形成水渍圈印，滴水10秒后，测量圈印的最大和最小直径，精确到0.1mm，测试结果即为最大和最小直径的平均值，修约到0.1mm，即可得到该面料的吸水性能参数。
CN201610387386.5A 2016-06-03 2016-06-03 一种服装及其工艺 Pending CN106072825A (zh)

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