CN105671739A - 柔软面料 - Google Patents
柔软面料 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105671739A CN105671739A CN201610147831.0A CN201610147831A CN105671739A CN 105671739 A CN105671739 A CN 105671739A CN 201610147831 A CN201610147831 A CN 201610147831A CN 105671739 A CN105671739 A CN 105671739A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 45
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 33
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000005187 foaming Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 235000017166 Bambusa arundinacea Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000017491 Bambusa tulda Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 241001330002 Bambuseae Species 0.000 claims description 6
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920004934 Dacron® Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 108091005804 Peptidases Proteins 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004365 Protease Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 102100037486 Reverse transcriptase/ribonuclease H Human genes 0.000 claims description 6
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical compound [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910000410 antimony oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009960 carding Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010779 crude oil Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- VTRUBDSFZJNXHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxoantimony Chemical compound [Sb]=O VTRUBDSFZJNXHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004873 Anti Pilling Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- CURLTUGMZLYLDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon dioxide Chemical compound O=C=O CURLTUGMZLYLDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 241000123589 Dipsacus Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 241001481760 Erethizon dorsatum Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002216 antistatic agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000005587 bubbling Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001427 coherent effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010026 decatizing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000018044 dehydration Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000006297 dehydration reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009963 fulling Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000005021 gait Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000031774 hair cycle Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000008676 import Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002663 nebulization Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000001514 detection method Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005553 drilling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/47—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic Table; Vanadates; Niobates; Tantalates; Arsenates; Antimonates; Bismuthates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
- D06M13/282—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
- D06M13/292—Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2101/00—Inorganic fibres
- D10B2101/10—Inorganic fibres based on non-oxides other than metals
- D10B2101/12—Carbon; Pitch
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
本发明涉及柔软面料,所述面料舒适、透气,面料通常不会出现钻毛现象,保证了整体的外观,不会给人不舒适的感觉,面料起泡性测试短时间内可以完成,测试结果快速及时,有利于企业对起泡性面料生产和技术把关,测试方法简单实用,不需要配置专门的检测设备,测试成本低,大大减少服装的返工率,提高服装生产效率,对于面料起泡性严重的,可以退回面料加工企业,由面料加工企业有针对性的进行返工,避免因严重起泡问题而导致服装报废。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及柔软面料,属于面料技术领域。
背景技术
衣服因其保暖性、轻柔性、美观性和舒适性已逐渐被大多数消费者所接受。而目前一些用于制造衣服的面料通常会出现钻毛现象,不仅影响了整体的外观,而且会给人不舒适的感觉,而现有的防钻毛通常是在面料上涂一层胶黏剂,来填满经纬交织点,以防止毛钻出,这种结构不透气、吸湿性差,长时间穿着造成不适。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足,提供舒适、透气的柔软面料。
本发明的目的是这样实现的:
柔软面料为的工艺:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品;
5)测试起泡性:
步骤一:在70cm通幅面料样品上取60cm×60cm的样品两块作为测试试样;
步骤二:将试样平置于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境条件下平衡2小时;
步骤三:把试样纵向折叠试样,折叠后的试样为30cm(横向)×60cm(纵向)正面朝外放到压烫机上,喷蒸汽10秒,蒸汽压力为6kg,织物受湿热后发生变形、起泡,表面起不同大小或不同密度的折痕或泡泡;
步骤四:喷完蒸汽后,用吸风将面料冷却5秒后将面料取出,将试样的横向一端夹在裤子衣架上,使试样保持自然垂直;
步骤五:将夹有试样的裤子衣架悬挂于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境下,将平衡后的样品移到自然背光条件下,分别在整烫后1小时后及整烫后24小时后这两个时间段,观察试样外观变化确定试样的起泡等级。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
这种面料可以有针对性的制定合理整烫工艺,大大减少服装的返工率,提高服装生产效率,对于面料起泡性严重的,可以退回面料加工企业,由面料加工企业有针对性的进行返工,避免因严重起泡问题而导致服装报废。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及柔软面料,其工艺为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品;
5)测试起泡性:
步骤一:在70cm通幅面料样品上取60cm×60cm的样品两块作为测试试样;
步骤二:将试样平置于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境条件下平衡2小时;
步骤三:把试样纵向折叠试样,折叠后的试样为30cm(横向)×60cm(纵向)正面朝外放到压烫机上,喷蒸汽10秒,蒸汽压力为6kg,织物受湿热后发生变形、起泡,表面起不同大小或不同密度的折痕或泡泡;
步骤四:喷完蒸汽后,用吸风将面料冷却5秒后将面料取出,将试样的横向一端夹在裤子衣架上,使试样保持自然垂直;
步骤五:将夹有试样的裤子衣架悬挂于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境下,将平衡后的样品移到自然背光条件下,分别在整烫后1小时后及整烫后24小时后这两个时间段,观察试样外观变化确定试样的起泡等级。
Claims (1)
1.柔软面料,其特征在于:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品;
5)测试起泡性:
步骤一:在70cm通幅面料样品上取60cm×60cm的样品两块作为测试试样;
步骤二:将试样平置于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境条件下平衡2小时;
步骤三:把试样纵向折叠试样,折叠后的试样为30cm(横向)×60cm(纵向)正面朝外放到压烫机上,喷蒸汽10秒,蒸汽压力为6kg,织物受湿热后发生变形、起泡,表面起不同大小或不同密度的折痕或泡泡;
步骤四:喷完蒸汽后,用吸风将面料冷却5秒后将面料取出,将试样的横向一端夹在裤子衣架上,使试样保持自然垂直;
步骤五:将夹有试样的裤子衣架悬挂于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境下,将平衡后的样品移到自然背光条件下,分别在整烫后1小时后及整烫后24小时后这两个时间段,观察试样外观变化确定试样的起泡等级。
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CN115434058A (zh) * | 2022-09-19 | 2022-12-06 | 江苏阳光股份有限公司 | 一种可降解毛混纺面料及其制备工艺 |
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CN115434058B (zh) * | 2022-09-19 | 2023-05-16 | 江苏阳光股份有限公司 | 一种可降解毛混纺面料及其制备工艺 |
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