CN105639809A - 复合保暖面料的起泡工艺 - Google Patents

复合保暖面料的起泡工艺 Download PDF

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CN105639809A
CN105639809A CN201610135589.5A CN201610135589A CN105639809A CN 105639809 A CN105639809 A CN 105639809A CN 201610135589 A CN201610135589 A CN 201610135589A CN 105639809 A CN105639809 A CN 105639809A
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fabric
sample
fiber
composite thermal
wool
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贺婕
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Jiangyin Topway Textile Co Ltd
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Jiangyin Topway Textile Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02Layered materials
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B3/00Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form
    • B32B3/26Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer
    • B32B3/266Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer characterised by an apertured layer, the apertures going through the whole thickness of the layer, e.g. expanded metal, perforated layer, slit layer regular cells B32B3/12
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/26Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B7/00Layered products characterised by the relation between layers; Layered products characterised by the relative orientation of features between layers, or by the relative values of a measurable parameter between layers, i.e. products comprising layers having different physical, chemical or physicochemical properties; Layered products characterised by the interconnection of layers
    • B32B7/04Interconnection of layers
    • B32B7/12Interconnection of layers using interposed adhesives or interposed materials with bonding properties
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/002With diagonal warps or wefts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/47Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic Table; Vanadates; Niobates; Tantalates; Arsenates; Antimonates; Bismuthates
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/244Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
    • D06M13/282Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
    • D06M13/292Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2250/00Layers arrangement
    • B32B2250/022 layers
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2250/00Layers arrangement
    • B32B2250/20All layers being fibrous or filamentary
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/30Properties of the layers or laminate having particular thermal properties
    • B32B2307/304Insulating
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2437/00Clothing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12Keratin fibres or silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32Polyesters
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

本发明涉及复合保暖面料的起泡工艺,其特征在于:所述复合保暖面料包括外层的反射性强的背面织物和内层的反射性弱的正面织物,所述背面织物与正面织物之间设置有保暖层。本发明一种复合保暖面料,正反面分别采用反射性强的背面织物和反射性弱的正面织物制成,可翻转反穿,昼夜温差大的地区,当白天较热时,把反射性强的背面织物的一面穿在外面,达到降温的效果;当晚上较冷时,把反射性弱的深色面来哦的一面穿在外面,达到保温的效果。

Description

复合保暖面料的起泡工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及复合保暖面料的起泡工艺,属于面料技术领域。
背景技术
传统的面料是一衣一用,根据季节设计,再昼夜温差大的地区,此种面料无法一衣二用,容易太热或受寒,而普通的如羽绒服,棉服等面料产品,多采用人工操作缝纫机进行产品缝制,通过缝纫线迹,形成羽绒或填充物的储存空间,由于产品的特殊性和产品工艺的要求,为保证产品质量和穿着效果,在采用的生产材料和生产工艺等方面有很多要求和限制,尤其在制造材料选用,缝制工艺以及穿着体验方面存在一定的风险。另外,传统的制作面料的所采用的面料为不可以两面使用。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足,提供不再有热量流失管道,保暖性能强的复合保暖面料的起泡工艺。
本发明的目的是这样实现的:
一种复合保暖面料,所述复合保暖面料包括外层的反射性强的背面织物和内层的反射性弱的正面织物,所述背面织物与正面织物之间设置有保暖层,所述保暖层包括内层面料和外层面料,内层面料与外层面料之间具有间隔设置的相互平行的粘合段,粘合段处的内层面料和外层面料粘合在一起,相邻的粘合段之间的内层面料和外层面料之间形成填充空间,所述正面织物包括有机织面料和针织面料,机织面料和针织面料之间通过粘合剂对合粘合在一起,所述正面织物上开有上层气孔,所述背面织物上开有下层气孔。
一种复合保暖面料的工艺方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品;
5)测试起泡性:
步骤一:在70cm通幅面料样品上取60cm×60cm的样品两块作为测试试样;
步骤二:将试样平置于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境条件下平衡2小时;
步骤三:把试样纵向折叠试样,折叠后的试样为30cm(横向)×60cm(纵向)正面朝外放到压烫机上,喷蒸汽10秒,蒸汽压力为6kg,织物受湿热后发生变形、起泡,表面起不同大小或不同密度的折痕或泡泡;
步骤四:喷完蒸汽后,用吸风将面料冷却5秒后将面料取出,将试样的横向一端夹在裤子衣架上,使试样保持自然垂直;
步骤五:将夹有试样的裤子衣架悬挂于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境下,将平衡后的样品移到自然背光条件下,分别在整烫后1小时后及整烫后24小时后这两个时间段,观察试样外观变化确定试样的起泡等级。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
本发明一种复合保暖面料,正反面分别采用反射性强的背面织物和反射性弱的正面织物制成,可翻转反穿,昼夜温差大的地区,当白天较热时,把反射性强的背面织物的一面穿在外面,达到降温的效果;当晚上较冷时,把反射性弱的深色面来哦的一面穿在外面,达到保温的效果。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及一种复合保暖面料,包括外层的反射性强的背面织物和内层的反射性弱的正面织物,可翻转反穿,所述背面织物与正面织物之间设置有保暖层,所述保暖层包括具有单层的高支数高密度面料的内层面料和单层的高支数高密度面料的外层面料,内层面料与外层面料之通过粘合段粘合在一起,所述正面织物上开有上层气孔,所述背面织物上开有下层气孔。
制作一种复合保暖面料的工艺方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品;
5)测试起泡性:
步骤一:在70cm通幅面料样品上取60cm×60cm的样品两块作为测试试样;
步骤二:将试样平置于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境条件下平衡2小时;
步骤三:把试样纵向折叠试样,折叠后的试样为30cm(横向)×60cm(纵向)正面朝外放到压烫机上,喷蒸汽10秒,蒸汽压力为6kg,织物受湿热后发生变形、起泡,表面起不同大小或不同密度的折痕或泡泡;
步骤四:喷完蒸汽后,用吸风将面料冷却5秒后将面料取出,将试样的横向一端夹在裤子衣架上,使试样保持自然垂直;
步骤五:将夹有试样的裤子衣架悬挂于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境下,将平衡后的样品移到自然背光条件下,分别在整烫后1小时后及整烫后24小时后这两个时间段,观察试样外观变化确定试样的起泡等级。

Claims (1)

1.一种复合保暖面料,其特征在于:所述复合保暖面料包括外层的反射性强的背面织物和内层的反射性弱的正面织物,所述背面织物与正面织物之间设置有保暖层,所述保暖层包括内层面料和外层面料,内层面料与外层面料之间具有间隔设置的相互平行的粘合段,粘合段处的内层面料和外层面料粘合在一起,相邻的粘合段之间的内层面料和外层面料之间形成填充空间,所述正面织物包括有机织面料和针织面料,机织面料和针织面料之间通过粘合剂对合粘合在一起,所述正面织物上开有上层气孔,所述背面织物上开有下层气孔;
复合保暖面料的工艺方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品;
5)测试起泡性:
步骤一:在70cm通幅面料样品上取60cm×60cm的样品两块作为测试试样;
步骤二:将试样平置于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境条件下平衡2小时;
步骤三:把试样纵向折叠试样,折叠后的试样为30cm(横向)×60cm(纵向)正面朝外放到压烫机上,喷蒸汽10秒,蒸汽压力为6kg,织物受湿热后发生变形、起泡,表面起不同大小或不同密度的折痕或泡泡;
步骤四:喷完蒸汽后,用吸风将面料冷却5秒后将面料取出,将试样的横向一端夹在裤子衣架上,使试样保持自然垂直;
步骤五:将夹有试样的裤子衣架悬挂于温度20±2℃,湿度65±3%的环境下,将平衡后的样品移到自然背光条件下,分别在整烫后1小时后及整烫后24小时后这两个时间段,观察试样外观变化确定试样的起泡等级。
CN201610135589.5A 2016-03-10 2016-03-10 复合保暖面料的起泡工艺 Pending CN105639809A (zh)

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