CN105774061A - 条纹蕾丝面料 - Google Patents

条纹蕾丝面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105774061A
CN105774061A CN201610134995.XA CN201610134995A CN105774061A CN 105774061 A CN105774061 A CN 105774061A CN 201610134995 A CN201610134995 A CN 201610134995A CN 105774061 A CN105774061 A CN 105774061A
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fiber
fabric
striped
shell fabric
wool
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黄文平
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Jiangyin Hanxin Textile Co Ltd
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Jiangyin Hanxin Textile Co Ltd
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B3/00—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form
    • B32B3/26—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer
    • B32B3/266—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer characterised by an apertured layer, the apertures going through the whole thickness of the layer, e.g. expanded metal, perforated layer, slit layer regular cells B32B3/12
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/08—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer the fibres or filaments of a layer being of different substances, e.g. conjugate fibres, mixture of different fibres
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
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    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
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    • B32B9/00—Layered products comprising a layer of a particular substance not covered by groups B32B11/00 - B32B29/00
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B9/00—Layered products comprising a layer of a particular substance not covered by groups B32B11/00 - B32B29/00
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    • B32B9/047—Layered products comprising a layer of a particular substance not covered by groups B32B11/00 - B32B29/00 comprising such particular substance as the main or only constituent of a layer, which is next to another layer of the same or of a different material made of fibres or filaments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/47—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic System; Vanadates; Niobates; Tantalates; Arsenates; Antimonates; Bismuthates
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    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
    • D06M13/282—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
    • D06M13/292—Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
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    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2250/00—Layers arrangement
    • B32B2250/03—3 layers
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0276—Polyester fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/06—Vegetal fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/06—Vegetal fibres
    • B32B2262/062—Cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton
    • B32B2262/065—Lignocellulosic fibres, e.g. jute, sisal, hemp, flax, bamboo
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/08—Animal fibres, e.g. hair, wool, silk
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/20—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular electrical or magnetic properties, e.g. piezoelectric
    • B32B2307/21—Anti-static
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/30—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular thermal properties
    • B32B2307/304—Insulating
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    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
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    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/35—Abrasion, pilling or fibrillation resistance
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    • D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions

Abstract

本发明涉及条纹蕾丝面料，其特征在于：包括面料本体，所述面料本体表面设有细纹面料层，细纹面料层与面料本体用线连接，所述细纹面料层上分布粗纹长方形短条布，所述短条布在水平方向上交错排列，并用线固定在细纹面料层上，所述面料本体的底面设有绒毛层，绒毛层底面设有防静电层。本发明条纹蕾丝面料中短条布凸出细纹面料层的所在平面，增强了条纹面料的层次感，绒毛层增强了条纹面料的保暖性，同时防静电层提高了防静电性。

Description

条纹蕾丝面料
技术领域
本发明涉及条纹蕾丝面料，属于面料技术领域。
背景技术
传统的面料通常为单层结构，功能较为单一。近几年随着纺织工业的发展，出现了双层面料，双层面料为三维结构，具有立体层次感，厚实度和强度都比较好，但不具备防静电功能。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足，提供立体层次感较好的条纹蕾丝面料。
本发明的目的是这样实现的：
条纹蕾丝面料，包括若干面料块，面料块与面料块之间通过纺丝线连接，其中每个面料块由径线和纬线交织混纺而成，所述径线为粘胶纤维，纤度为126~185dtex，经密度为34.2~38.5根/cm，所述纬线为铜氨纤维，纤度为112~228dtex，经密度为29.8~43.8根/cm，所述面料块上覆盖有蕾丝层，所述面料块的底面设有绒毛层，绒毛层底面设有防静电层，所述防静电层上开设有下层气孔，所述细纹面料层上开设有上层气孔；
条纹蕾丝面料的制作工艺为：
1）、纱线品种设计：
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）、纺纱工艺：
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维，30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛（成条）→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒，其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%～55%，温度25℃～30℃；
在和毛工艺中，选用NimateCF-5和毛油，NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂，以喷雾法，添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂，使纤维具有优异的润滑性，增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性，提高了纤维的可梳理性，有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合；
在梳毛工艺中，喂毛周期掌握50s～60s，出条速度不超过100m/min，出条克重5g/m，不匀系数控制在2%以内；
在并条工艺中，纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，一并的参数8.2，二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机（D45型），下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%～1%。在这个过程中，必须要控制好牵伸倍数，总牵伸控制7.8倍，其中主牵伸4.58倍，后续牵伸1.7倍；
3）、织造工艺：
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造，在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，以2/2的斜纹为基础组织，采用单经单纬的方式上机织造，上机幅宽为178cm，上机经密为225根/10cm，纬密为216根/10cm；
4）、后整理工艺：
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：
本发明条纹蕾丝面料中短条布凸出细纹面料层的所在平面，增强了条纹面料的层次感，绒毛层增强了条纹面料的保暖性，同时防静电层提高了防静电性。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及条纹蕾丝面料，包括面料本体，所述面料本体表面设有细纹面料层，细纹面料层与面料本体用线连接，所述细纹面料层上分布粗纹长方形短条布，所述短条布在水平方向上交错排列，并用线固定在细纹面料层上，所述面料本体的底面设有绒毛层，绒毛层底面设有防静电层，所述防静电层上开设有下层气孔，所述细纹面料层上开设有上层气孔。
制作条纹蕾丝面料的工艺方法为：
1）、纱线品种设计：
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）、纺纱工艺：
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维，30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛（成条）→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒，其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%～55%，温度25℃～30℃；
在和毛工艺中，选用NimateCF-5和毛油，NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂，以喷雾法，添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂，使纤维具有优异的润滑性，增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性，提高了纤维的可梳理性，有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合；
在梳毛工艺中，喂毛周期掌握50s～60s，出条速度不超过100m/min，出条克重5g/m，不匀系数控制在2%以内；
在并条工艺中，纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，一并的参数8.2，二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机（D45型），下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%～1%。在这个过程中，必须要控制好牵伸倍数，总牵伸控制7.8倍，其中主牵伸4.58倍，后续牵伸1.7倍；
3）、织造工艺：
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造，在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，以2/2的斜纹为基础组织，采用单经单纬的方式上机织造，上机幅宽为178cm，上机经密为225根/10cm，纬密为216根/10cm；
4）、后整理工艺：
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品。

Claims (1)

1.条纹蕾丝面料，其特征在于：包括若干面料块，面料块与面料块之间通过纺丝线连接，其中每个面料块由径线和纬线交织混纺而成，所述径线为粘胶纤维，纤度为126~185dtex，经密度为34.2~38.5根/cm，所述纬线为铜氨纤维，纤度为112~228dtex，经密度为29.8~43.8根/cm，所述面料块上覆盖有蕾丝层，所述面料块的底面设有绒毛层，绒毛层底面设有防静电层，所述防静电层上开设有下层气孔，所述细纹面料层上开设有上层气孔；
条纹蕾丝面料的工艺方法为：
1）、纱线品种设计：
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维，对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理，抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂，磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4％，酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理，蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2％，柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂，水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8％；
2）、纺纱工艺：
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维，30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛（成条）→并条(一并、二并)→气流纺→自动络筒，其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%～55%，温度25℃～30℃；
在和毛工艺中，选用NimateCF-5和毛油，NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂，以喷雾法，添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂，使纤维具有优异的润滑性，增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性，提高了纤维的可梳理性，有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合；
在梳毛工艺中，喂毛周期掌握50s～60s，出条速度不超过100m/min，出条克重5g/m，不匀系数控制在2%以内；
在并条工艺中，纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，一并的参数8.2，二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机（D45型），下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%～1%。在这个过程中，必须要控制好牵伸倍数，总牵伸控制7.8倍，其中主牵伸4.58倍，后续牵伸1.7倍；
3）、织造工艺：
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造，在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱，以2/2的斜纹为基础组织，采用单经单纬的方式上机织造，上机幅宽为178cm，上机经密为225根/10cm，纬密为216根/10cm；
4）、后整理工艺：
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品。
CN201610134995.XA 2016-03-10 2016-03-10 条纹蕾丝面料 Pending CN105774061A (zh)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106880118A (zh) * 2017-04-02 2017-06-23 陈顶凯 蕾丝面料

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106880118A (zh) * 2017-04-02 2017-06-23 陈顶凯 蕾丝面料

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