CN107237026A - 一种环保型蕾丝面料 - Google Patents
一种环保型蕾丝面料 Download PDFInfo
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- CN107237026A CN107237026A CN201610175932.9A CN201610175932A CN107237026A CN 107237026 A CN107237026 A CN 107237026A CN 201610175932 A CN201610175932 A CN 201610175932A CN 107237026 A CN107237026 A CN 107237026A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 51
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 25
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims description 24
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 235000017166 Bambusa arundinacea Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000017491 Bambusa tulda Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 241001330002 Bambuseae Species 0.000 claims description 6
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920004934 Dacron® Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical compound [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- HOEPQCVCLOVHIS-UHFFFAOYSA-K [Sb+3]=O.P(=O)([O-])([O-])[O-] Chemical compound [Sb+3]=O.P(=O)([O-])([O-])[O-] HOEPQCVCLOVHIS-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009960 carding Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010779 crude oil Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004873 Anti Pilling Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 241000123589 Dipsacus Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims description 3
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 241001481760 Erethizon dorsatum Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 108091005804 Peptidases Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004365 Protease Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 102100037486 Reverse transcriptase/ribonuclease H Human genes 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002216 antistatic agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001427 coherent effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010026 decatizing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000018044 dehydration Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000006297 dehydration reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 210000003746 feather Anatomy 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009963 fulling Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000005021 gait Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000031774 hair cycle Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000008676 import Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 abstract description 7
- 239000007767 bonding agent Substances 0.000 abstract description 6
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B23/00—Layered products comprising a layer of cellulosic plastic substances, i.e. substances obtained by chemical modification of cellulose, e.g. cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, viscose
- B32B23/02—Layered products comprising a layer of cellulosic plastic substances, i.e. substances obtained by chemical modification of cellulose, e.g. cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, viscose in the form of fibres or filaments
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B23/00—Layered products comprising a layer of cellulosic plastic substances, i.e. substances obtained by chemical modification of cellulose, e.g. cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, viscose
- B32B23/04—Layered products comprising a layer of cellulosic plastic substances, i.e. substances obtained by chemical modification of cellulose, e.g. cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, viscose comprising such cellulosic plastic substance as the main or only constituent of a layer, which is next to another layer of the same or of a different material
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B23/00—Layered products comprising a layer of cellulosic plastic substances, i.e. substances obtained by chemical modification of cellulose, e.g. cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, viscose
- B32B23/10—Layered products comprising a layer of cellulosic plastic substances, i.e. substances obtained by chemical modification of cellulose, e.g. cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, viscose next to a fibrous or filamentary layer
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
- B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
- B32B5/028—Net structure, e.g. spaced apart filaments bonded at the crossing points
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/47—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic Table; Vanadates; Niobates; Tantalates; Arsenates; Antimonates; Bismuthates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
- D06M13/282—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
- D06M13/292—Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
- D10B2331/041—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET] derived from hydroxy-carboxylic acids, e.g. lactones
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Abstract
本发明涉及一种环保型蕾丝面料,其特征在于:包括第一面料层、第二面料层和第三面料层,第二面料层位于第一面料层和第三面料层之间,第二面料层的两侧设有截面呈正三角形的凸起,第一面料层朝向第二面料层的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第一凹槽,第三面料层朝向第二面料层的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第二凹槽,第二面料层的凸起分别与第一面料层的第一凹槽和第三面料层的第二凹槽相配合,所述第一面料层上开设有下层气孔,所述第三面料层上开设有上层气孔。一种环保型蕾丝面料具有良好的咬合性能,没有使用任何化学粘接剂,环保性强,质地柔软,穿着舒适。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种环保型蕾丝面料,属于面料技术领域。
背景技术
随着人类生活水平的提高,人们对制成衣物的面料的性能要求也越来越高。人们的首要要求就是衣料的环保性,希望衣料尽量少用或者不用污染高的化学物质,例如化学粘接剂。目前,市场上的多层面料大部分是采用化学粘接剂进行粘接。这样,衣服的环保性能就不高。新衣服往往需要晾晒很久,才能穿着。这势必影响人们对衣物的正常使用。因此,人们希望制成衣服的面料尽可能少用化学粘接剂,提高衣服的环保性能。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足,提供不采用化学粘接剂,环保性能高的一种环保型蕾丝面料。
本发明的目的是这样实现的:
一种环保型蕾丝面料,包括第一面料层、第二面料层和第三面料层,第二面料层位于第一面料层和第三面料层之间,面料层与面料层之间通过纺丝线连接,其中每个面料层由径线和纬线交织混纺而成,所述径线为粘胶纤维,纤度为126~185dtex,经密度为34.2~38.5根/cm,所述纬线为铜氨纤维,纤度为112~228dtex,经密度为29.8~43.8根/cm,所述每个面料层上覆盖有蕾丝层;
该面料的制作方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
本发明一种环保型蕾丝面料具有良好的咬合性能,整个过程中没有使用任何化学粘接剂,提高了面料的环保性,质地柔软,穿着舒适。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及一种环保型蕾丝面料,包括第一面料层、第二面料层和第三面料层,第二面料层位于第一面料层和第三面料层之间,面料层与面料层之间通过纺丝线连接,其中每个面料层由径线和纬线交织混纺而成,所述径线为粘胶纤维,纤度为126~185dtex,经密度为34.2~38.5根/cm,所述纬线为铜氨纤维,纤度为112~228dtex,经密度为29.8~43.8根/cm,所述每个面料层上覆盖有蕾丝层;
该面料的制作方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品。
Claims (1)
1.一种环保型蕾丝面料,其特征在于:包括第一面料层、第二面料层和第三面料层,第二面料层位于第一面料层和第三面料层之间,面料层与面料层之间通过纺丝线连接,其中每个面料层由径线和纬线交织混纺而成,所述径线为粘胶纤维,纤度为126~185dtex,经密度为34.2~38.5根/cm,所述纬线为铜氨纤维,纤度为112~228dtex,经密度为29.8~43.8根/cm,所述每个面料层上覆盖有蕾丝层;
该面料的制作方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维,对羊毛纤维、竹炭涤纶纤维和聚乳酸纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃;
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合;
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内;
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍;
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225根/10cm,纬密为216根/10cm;
4)、后整理工艺:
将第四步织成的面料再通过坯检→修布→复验→缝边→预洗→缩呢→精洗呢→脱水→蒸呢→针辊起毛→剪毛→刺果起毛→湿刷→烘干定型→烫光→成检制成成品。
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