CN106820364A - 一种带咬合功能的面料 - Google Patents
一种带咬合功能的面料 Download PDFInfo
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- CN106820364A CN106820364A CN201510874396.7A CN201510874396A CN106820364A CN 106820364 A CN106820364 A CN 106820364A CN 201510874396 A CN201510874396 A CN 201510874396A CN 106820364 A CN106820364 A CN 106820364A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/02—Layered materials
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B3/00—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form
- B32B3/26—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer
- B32B3/28—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer characterised by a layer comprising a deformed thin sheet, i.e. the layer having its entire thickness deformed out of the plane, e.g. corrugated, crumpled
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B3/00—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form
- B32B3/26—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer
- B32B3/30—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar form; Layered products having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer characterised by a layer formed with recesses or projections, e.g. hollows, grooves, protuberances, ribs
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
- B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
- B32B5/08—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer the fibres or filaments of a layer being of different substances, e.g. conjugate fibres, mixture of different fibres
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
- B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
- B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
- B32B5/26—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B7/00—Layered products characterised by the relation between layers; Layered products characterised by the relative orientation of features between layers, or by the relative values of a measurable parameter between layers, i.e. products comprising layers having different physical, chemical or physicochemical properties; Layered products characterised by the interconnection of layers
- B32B7/04—Interconnection of layers
- B32B7/08—Interconnection of layers by mechanical means
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/47—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic System; Vanadates; Niobates; Tantalates; Arsenates; Antimonates; Bismuthates
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
- D06M13/282—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
- D06M13/292—Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B2250/00—Layers arrangement
- B32B2250/20—All layers being fibrous or filamentary
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
- B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
- B32B2262/0253—Polyolefin fibres
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
- B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
- B32B2262/0276—Polyester fibres
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
- B32B2262/08—Animal fibres, e.g. hair, wool, silk
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
- B32B2262/14—Mixture of at least two fibres made of different materials
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B2437/00—Clothing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种带咬合功能的面料,其特征在于:所述的面料包括第一面料层(1)、第二面料层(2)和第三面料层(3),第二面料层(2)位于第一面料层(1)和第三面料层(3)之间,第二面料层(2)的两侧设有截面呈正三角形的凸起(4),第一面料层(1)朝向第二面料层(2)的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第一凹槽,第三面料层(3)朝向第二面料层(2)的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第二凹槽,第二面料层(2)的凸起(4)分别与第一面料层(1)的第一凹槽和第三面料层(3)的第二凹槽相配合。一种带咬合功能的面料具有良好的咬合性能,没有使用任何化学粘接剂,环保性强,质地柔软,穿着舒适。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种带咬合功能的面料,属于面料技术领域。
背景技术
随着人类生活水平的提高,人们对制成衣物的面料的性能要求也越来越高。人们的首要要求就是衣料的环保性,希望衣料尽量少用或者不用污染高的化学物质,例如化学粘接剂。目前,市场上的多层面料大部分是采用化学粘接剂进行粘接。这样,衣服的环保性能就不高。新衣服往往需要晾晒很久,才能穿着。这势必影响人们对衣物的正常使用。因此,人们希望制成衣服的面料尽可能少用化学粘接剂,提高衣服的环保性能。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足,提供不采用化学粘接剂,环保性能高的一种带咬合功能的面料。
本发明的目的是这样实现的:
一种带咬合功能的面料,包括第一面料层、第二面料层和第三面料层,第二面料层位于第一面料层和第三面料层之间,第二面料层的两侧设有截面呈正三角形的凸起,第一面料层朝向第二面料层的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第一凹槽,第三面料层朝向第二面料层的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第二凹槽,第二面料层的凸起分别与第一面料层的第一凹槽和第三面料层的第二凹槽相配合。
制作一种带咬合功能的面料的工艺方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃。
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合。
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内。
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍。
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1 公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2 的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225 根/10cm,纬密为216 根/10cm。
4)、后整理工艺:
后整理包括:烧毛-单煮-洗呢-双煮-烘呢-光触媒加工液浸轧-烘呢-TEFLON三防整理-焙烘-熟修-刷毛-剪毛-刷毛-给湿-罐蒸,另外,光触媒加工液的用量30g/l—50g/l,轧液率75%—85%,在光触媒加工液的使用时保持车25m/min—30m/min,温度120℃—135℃,TEFLON三防整理加工的轧液75-85%,车速保持18-22m/min,温度160-180℃,最后制得的面料规格为:纱支96/2-100/2Nm,总紧度145-165,经密615-796根/10厘米,纬密400-358根/10厘米,克重340-390克/米。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
本发明一种带咬合功能的面料具有良好的咬合性能,整个过程中没有使用任何化学粘接剂,提高了面料的环保性,质地柔软,穿着舒适。
附图说明
图1为本发明一种带咬合功能的面料的结构示意图。
图中:第一面料层1、第二面料层2、第三面料层3、凸起4。
具体实施方式
参见图1,本发明涉及一种带咬合功能的面料,包括第一面料层1、第二面料层2和第三面料层3,第二面料层2位于第一面料层1和第三面料层3之间,第二面料层2的两侧设有截面呈正三角形的凸起4,第一面料层1朝向第二面料层2的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第一凹槽,第三面料层3朝向第二面料层2的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第二凹槽,第二面料层2的凸起4分别与第一面料层1的第一凹槽和第三面料层3的第二凹槽相配合。
制作一种带咬合功能的面料的工艺方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃。
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合。
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内。
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍。
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1 公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2 的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225 根/10cm,纬密为216 根/10cm。
4)、后整理工艺:
后整理包括:烧毛-单煮-洗呢-双煮-烘呢-光触媒加工液浸轧-烘呢-TEFLON三防整理-焙烘-熟修-刷毛-剪毛-刷毛-给湿-罐蒸,另外,光触媒加工液的用量30g/l—50g/l,轧液率75%—85%,在光触媒加工液的使用时保持车25m/min—30m/min,温度120℃—135℃,TEFLON三防整理加工的轧液75-85%,车速保持18-22m/min,温度160-180℃,最后制得的面料规格为:纱支96/2-100/2Nm,总紧度145-165,经密615-796根/10厘米,纬密400-358根/10厘米,克重340-390克/米。
Claims (2)
1.一种带咬合功能的面料,其特征在于:所述的面料包括第一面料层(1)、第二面料层(2)和第三面料层(3),第二面料层(2)位于第一面料层(1)和第三面料层(3)之间,第二面料层(2)的两侧设有截面呈正三角形的凸起(4),第一面料层(1)朝向第二面料层(2)的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第一凹槽,第三面料层(3)朝向第二面料层(2)的一侧设有截面呈正三角形的第二凹槽,第二面料层(2)的凸起(4)分别与第一面料层(1)的第一凹槽和第三面料层(3)的第二凹槽相配合。
2.制作权利要求1所述的一种带咬合功能的面料的工艺方法,其特征在于:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃。
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合。
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内。
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍。
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1 公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2 的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225 根/10cm,纬密为216 根/10cm。
4)、后整理工艺:
后整理包括:烧毛-单煮-洗呢-双煮-烘呢-光触媒加工液浸轧-烘呢-TEFLON三防整理-焙烘-熟修-刷毛-剪毛-刷毛-给湿-罐蒸,另外,光触媒加工液的用量30g/l—50g/l,轧液率75%—85%,在光触媒加工液的使用时保持车25m/min—30m/min,温度120℃—135℃,TEFLON三防整理加工的轧液75-85%,车速保持18-22m/min,温度160-180℃,最后制得的面料规格为:纱支96/2-100/2Nm,总紧度145-165,经密615-796根/10厘米,纬密400-358根/10厘米,克重340-390克/米。
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